Tasting #258 – October 31, 2023 – Wines from PATAGONIA, Argentina.
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Testing overview
The wine production of PATAGONIA, Argentina.
Patagonia is South America’s southernmost wine-producing region. Despite being one of the world’s least-obvious places for quality viticulture, this desert region – with its cool, dry climate – has proved itself well suited to producing elegant red wines from Pinot Noir and Malbec.
The cooler climate in Patagonia is ideal for wines like Pinot Noir and Merlot.
The geographical region covers a vast area – around twice the size of California – across southern Argentina and Chile. Patagonia is more closely associated with dinosaurs and desert than with fine wine production.
The total land under vine in Patagonia is less than 10,000 acres or about 4,000 hectares, which represents about 2% of the total planted in Argentina.
However, the viticultural zone stretches 300 kilometers (200 miles) along the Neuquen and Rio Negro rivers, from Anelo in the west to Choele Choel in the east. The zone is closer to the Andes Mountains than to the Atlantic Ocean, but is at a much lower altitude than its northern cousin of Mendoza, averaging about 300 metres (1000 feet) above sea level.
Patagonia is a desert, and viticulture is possible only near the rivers, where meltwater from the Andes is abundant for irrigation. The classic desert climate of warm days and cold nights extends the growing season in the region, slowing ripening in the grapes and letting them develop rich varietal character while retaining acidity.
Patagonia has gained recognition within the wine world due to the two viticultural regions located in its northern section: the more-established Rio Negro and the newer, still developing Neuquen. Wines from these two zones are traditionally more European in style than those from the central and northern regions of Argentina, as a result of the areas’ cooler climate and higher latitude.
There are a number of factors which mean that the wines produced in Patagonia wine region are some of the most complex, characterful and excellent Argentinian wines. These factors include the climate, temperature range, strong winds and long periods of sunshine during the ripening season.
The red wines of the Patagonia wine region are complex with intense colors and excellent typicity. Wine lovers are giving increased attention to the La Pampa area of Patagonia where excellent Cabernet Franc wines are produced. These wines have added to the catalogue of diverse wines produced in Patagonia and have hints of red fruit, elegant tannins, and tasting notes of pepper. The Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon red wines of Patagonia are grown at higher altitudes in the region where the soils are stony and irrigation levels are higher. This allows for the production of fruitier wines with intense colors and refined tannins. Patagonian Merlot wines are described as smooth and balanced with intense aromas. The Malbec of the region has an intense ruby color with aromas of black cherries, lavender, biscuits, and spices. The palate of the wine is dry with refreshing acidity, a medium body, balanced flavors, and ripe tannins. While Malbec still plays a central role in Patagonian wine, it is Pinot Noir that has become the region’s iconic grape variety.
Patagonian wines pair well with regional dishes and local ingredients. Given the cool climate, the wines often exhibit freshness and vibrant acidity, making them ideal with grilled lamb, game meats, salmon, trout, and local cheeses.
Excellent white wines made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling also showcase the freshness of the region’s climate.
Patagonia’s location in the southern latitudes and its cool climate contribute to the production of elegant and expressive wines. The region’s temperature variations, longer growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts create favorable conditions for producing wines with freshness, complexity, and vibrant acidity.
Guillermo Barzi Canale “Patagonia is synonymous of mountains, lakes, desert, glaciers, land of dinosaurs, magic, purity and also elegant and sophisticated wines.”
Type of testing: Open
Presenter: Jaime Estupiñán
Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; R. Connolly; C. Estrada;J. Estupiñan; J. Garcia; N. Marzella; C. and A. Perazza; L. J. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; G. Vega, and G. Zincke.
The Wines
- Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc, 2022. Rio Negro, Patagonia (JS 92)
- Pinot Noir 2021, Neuquen Patagonia. (JS 93).
- Wapisa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019, Patagonia, Argentina. (JS 92).
- Humberto Canale Gran Reserva Merlot 2019, Rio Negro Argentina.
Menu
- Seafood salad.
- Agnolotti with tomato sauce.
- Grilled Lamb shops, potatoes and vegetables.
- Desert, coffee, tea.
Information on the Wines and the wineries
1 – WAPISA SAUVIGNON BLANC. 2022, Rio Negro, PATAGONIA, Argentina.
Winemaker Notes
With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region. Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.
James Suckling JS92
A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.
VINOUS: 89 PTS
Product Details
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Patagonia, Argentina Producer: Wapisa Vintage: 2022 Size: 750ML ABV: 13.8% Features: Screw Cap
Winemaker notes: With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region.
Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.
Critical Acclaim
James Suckling JS92
A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.
Producer: Wapisa Winery
https://vinodelsol.com/?wpfb_dl=1793
Revolutionary is the word Patricia Ortiz, owner of Wapisa, uses to describe the winery. Not only is Wapisa the only Coastal Winery in Patagonia, but it is the only winery in Argentina to age wines under the sea. Inspired by the coastal influences, Patricia decided to incorporate the ocean into the aging process. The pressurized atmosphere with its constant temperature provides perfect conditions for aging wines.
“Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale.” Not only do whales frequent the nearby coast of the winery’s vineyards, but a local legend talks of a wapisa that actually lived on land. The wines, like the Wapisa, are an expression not just of their soils but of the nearby ocean as well.
Located in San Javier, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina, Wapisa is just 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and is the only winery that exists in this unique coastal terroir. Our vineyard “Finca Los Acantilados” is an estate that stands out for its lime clay soils, good acidity and little organic matter. The terroir is complemented by the outstanding thermal amplitude, highlighted by cool maritime breezes that sweep over the vineyards at night, leading to balanced and fruity wines with a touch of salinity and a delicate varietal expression. As Master of Wine Tim Atkin stated, this is “the new Argentina.”
Patricia and her winery are dedicated to preserving the land and the sea. The winery is not only follows sustainable practices, but Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the California Ocean Alliance California Ocean Alliance.
The wines are made by Jean Claude Berrouet the recently-retired winemaker of Chateau Petrus, having presided over 44 vintages at this revered Bordeaux winery. Every wine they produce has gotten huge press from The Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling.
2 – KOSKIL PINOT NOIR 2021, NEUQUEN, PATAGONIA.
Product Details
Country / State: Argentina Region: Patagonia Brand: Koskil Wine Type: Red Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir Style: Elegant ABV: 13.5% Taste: Vanilla, Floral, Cherry Body: Medium-bodied
Food Pairings: Beef, Pork, Chicken
Product Highlights
Rating Source: James Suckling-Patagonia Argentina, Points: 93: “Notes of cherries, wild strawberries, pomegranate peel and light spices. Fresh and crunchy with medium body and soft tannins. It has a smooth silky texture and a delicious fruit profile, with notes of blue flowers. Flavorful finish.” Vanilla, Floral, Cherry.
Average Rating 3.7 (231 Ratings)
Producer: Koskil Winery
Produced in Neuquén, Patagonia. Estate bottled. Bottled for Group PENAFLOR.
The Group PENAFLOR es el mayor productor y exportador de vinos de Argentina.
Bottle description: The early inhabitants of the remote lands of Patagonia believed in a supreme God named Kooch, whose breath originated strong wind that separated the waters from the earth. That blustery winds weeping across the Patagonia towards the Atlantic was called Koskil, the wind that defines our terroir. It shapes our identity more than any other natural phenomenon. Its presence determine our features, our costumes, our life. Its dryness protect vines and preserve their health. And it gives our wine its name: Koskil.
3 – WAPISA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina.
Product Details
Country: Argentina Region: Patagonia Vintage: 2019 Winery: Wapisa Grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon Alcohol: 14.1% Size: 750 ml Organic wine: Yes Natural wine: Yes
Winemaker Notes: Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate.
CRITICAL ACCLAIM
James Suckling – “Intense red color. Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Spicy aromas such as eucalyptus and black pepper. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate”
James Suckling 93 points ( 2017 y 2018)
Producer: Wapisa Winery. See information above.
4. HUMBERTO CANALE GRAN RESERVA MERLOT 2019, RION NEGRO, PATAGONIA, Argentina.
Product details
Composition: Merlot varietal 100% Origin: Old vineyards in General Roca, Upper Valley of Rio Negro, Patagonia. Alcohol: 14.0% Total acidity: 5.02 gr/L Residual Sugar: 2.05 gr/L
Harvest: At the end of March. Carefully harvested by hand, immediately sent to cellar, distant to 1km from the vineyard, in small containers. Yield: 7,000 Kgs/hectare.
Development: The grapes are received in small containers and a selection of clusters is carried out, after the destemming a cold pre-fermentation maceration is carried out for 48-72 HS, alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperature (25 ° to 27 º C) in cement vessels of 9000 Lts of capacity for a period of 20 days with periodic reassembly and Delestage. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent aging in new French and American oak barrels for a period of 12 months and then bottling. Period of storage in bottle for 6 months before marketing.
Guarda: 8 years.
Winemaker testing notes: Intense ruby red color, fruity and spices aromas. A modern, round, soft and subtle wine. No doubt Merlot is one of the varieties that best adapts to the particular climatic conditions of this region. In this case it is one of the few Argentinian Merlots produced with good concentration and important potential of Guarda. It has a bright and intense purple color. Warm, very intense and enveloping Aroma. It seduces by its complexity, highlighting the notes contributed by its passage in wood, which are mixed well with the red fruits contributed by the variety. In the mouth presents a powerful body, with a lot of concentration and very pleasant fruity flavor. Long end and pleasing remembrance. Its structure and potent tannins reveal an important potential of guard.
Pairing: Red meats such as lamb and Southern deer and pasta stuffed with meat sauces.
Producer: Humberto Canale Winery
Going through the history of the winery Humberto Canale is like traveling throughout the history of the upper valley of the Rio Negro: From its beginnings with the arrival of the railway and the irrigation canals, until the present day, eleven decades and five generations later.
The winery originated in 1909, shortly after the conquest of the Patagonian desert (between 1878 and 1885), when its founder, the engineer Humberto Canale, along with other governmental executives from President Roca’s administration (1898-1904) , went through the place to implement irrigation systems in the region
Humberto Canale Winery is located near General Roca city, in the heart of the Alto Valle of Rio Negro, Patagonia. It is a family company founded by Engineer Humberto Canale in 1909. Four generations later, the founder’s wisdom regarding handmade processes is combined with the most updated techniques, and the result is the production of fine wines of international quality. At present the winery is managed by Engineer Guillermo Barzi Canale. The company owns 150 has. The old vineyards where traditional French varieties are found: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon among the red ones, and Semillón, Sauvignon Blanc Viognier and Torrontés among the white ones.
The grapes generally ripen twenty days later than in the Cuyo region. This happens at the beginning of autumn, when the days are warm and the nights are cold; a slow maturation occurs and the grapes reach an excellent balance between sugar and natural acidity. The combination of these factors produces wines of great intensity of color and character. Finally, we include a quotation by the enologists’ master, Mr. Raul de la Mota: “In Rio Negro, wines as famous as the French ones may be produced. The grapes of that Argentine region are excellent, vigorous and with peculiar features that are different from those of the rest of the country. Among others, I was amazed with the Pinot Noir and the Cabernet varieties. This region has a specific enological personality and a highly valuable viticulture may be developed in it.”
Currently, the Humberto Canale establishment has 5000 hectares, 150 of vineyards and the rest of fruit trees that is sold in the market as an PAI partner
The winery produces 1,500,000 kilograms of grapes per year, has a capacity of more than 1,700.000 bottles per year and storage capacity for 3,200,000 liters. The varietals: Franc, Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot Pinot Noir, Riesling ,Sauvignon Blanc, Semillón.
Additional information on the Patagonia Argentina.
Guide to the Patagonia Region
Move over Mendoza. Patagonia is the new Malbec producing kid in Argentina. This may seem unlikely, since Patagonia’s wine regions are so far south. In fact, they’re the southernmost regions in the world. Yet since the 1990s, there’s been an explosion of investment here, as it has attracted some of the biggest names in international luxury winemaking.
Patagonia is home to three important sub-regions. Out of this trio, only Río Negro had a viticultural history pre-1990s. Unlike the others, its vineyard area is declining as growers swap quality for quantity. By contrast, vineyard land increased by 82 percent in the Neuquén subregion and by 73 percent in the La Pampa subregion between 2002 and 2012.
Argentina’s signature red grape, Malbec, is Patagonia’s preferred variety and makes up about 40 percent of its more than 4500ha/11,000acres of cultivated vineyards. The area’s vineyards are planted between 300 and 500 meters (985 to 1,640 feet) above sea level, which allows the grapes to be cooled by Andean winds rather than altitude. Patagonia’s wide diurnal temperature swings also make it an inviting region for white varieties.
The Complex and Characterful Wines of Patagonia Wine Region
Travel Guide to Patagonia Wine Region
Patagonia is the southernmost wine-producing wine region in Argentina. This winemaking region spans the provinces of Rio Negro, La Pampa, and Neuquen. Patagonia wine region is often overlooked for viticulture as a result of its desert landscapes and cool, dry climates which do not seem suitable for the cultivation of vines. Despite this, over time Patagonia wineries have become internationally acclaimed for the production of elegant red wines made from Pinot Noir and Malbec grapes. Patagonia wine region is fast becoming one of the most well-recognized wine regions in Argentina thanks to its excellent and high-quality wines and interesting landscapes. This unique and interesting winemaking region is the perfect place to explore the best Argentinean wines.
Rio Negro and Neuquen
The two most well-known areas of viticulture in Patagonia wine region are Rio Negro and Neuquen. The wines produced in these two regions are traditionally European in character. Neuquen is located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, while Rio Negro is located higher up on Patagonia mountains slopes.
RioNegro Region
Rio Negro is the most southerly wine region in South America, located in the north of the Patagonia region. The climate is cooler than in much of the rest of Argentina and elegant, cool-climate styles of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec are produced here.
The Rio Negro River is formed at the convergence of the Andean meltwater rivers Neuquen and Limay and then flows 530km (310 miles) to the Atlantic Ocean in the east. In the 1820s, British colonists dug irrigation channels into the dry, arid Patagonian desert on both sides of the Negro, forming a green belt along the river that is suitable for agriculture.
While viticulture is a significant part of this, the Rio Negro is most famous for the apple and pear orchards that are found along its banks. The Rio Negro valley is divided roughly into three: the Alto Valle (in the west), the Valle Medio and the Valle Inferior (closest to the ocean).
Most viticulture takes place in the Alto Valle, around the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay, on the edge of the Neuquen province (whose western border sits on the peaks of the Andes). The mountains have little influence on the vineyards here, however; it is the river that contributes the most to the region’s terroir.
The dry climate has proved itself well suited to the growth of Vitis vinifera. Hot summers and cold winters ensure a consistency of climate that allows viticulturists a degree of predictability in the harvest.
While the altitude is very low by Argentinean standards – around 250m (820ft) above sea level – the region is still subject to a pronounced diurnal temperature variation, where warm days are followed by cold nights. This lengthens the growing season and leads to a balance of rich fruit characters and acidity in the wines.
Rio Negro’s soils are mostly alluvial, and are made up of gravel with a considerable limestone component. These are well drained, so growers are able to carefully control the water intake and growth of their vines through irrigation. Slightly parched vines put resources into producing small, concentrated berries rather than luxurious, leafy foliage.
Rio Negro is one of Argentina’s up-and-coming wine regions, and more and more producers are exploring its viticultural potential.
Rio Negro: Patagonia Wine’s Heart and Soul
If there is an epicenter to Patagonia wine, it would have to be Rio Negro, a fertile river valley which has been under vine for more than a century. As a result, Rio Negro is home to some of the oldest vineyards in the region, a feature that has attracted many of Argentina’s brightest winemaking talents.
While wine can be made just about anywhere, fine wine requires a specific set of conditions, and Rio Negro has all of them: Low humidity. Warm, dry summers. Cool nights that allow the grapes to retain acidity. Relatively austere soils poor in organic matter. The list goes on.
Rio Negro has two additional advantages not found in many other fine wine regions.
First, wind is omnipresent. Wind keeps the grapes dry, which reduces the risk of fungal disease. Second, Rio Negro’s latitude — between 38 and 42° South — means that it gets an extra hour of sunshine during the growing season than other wine regions such as Mendoza. Sunshine is critical for color and flavor development, and Rio Negro has it in abundance.
Neuquen Region
Neuquen is a very young wine-producing region on the Patagonian plains of southern Argentina. Wine has been made here on a commercial scale only since the early 2000s, but the region has already shown both significant growth and promise. The region produces wine ranging from good-value to ultra-premium, mostly from Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Officially, the province of Neuquen covers a large area of northern Patagonia, just to the south of Argentina’s most prolific wine region of Mendoza. The Andes mountain range runs up the western side of the province, separating Argentina from Chile, and the border with Rio Negro covers both the southern and eastern boundaries of Neuquen.
In practice, winemaking is contained to a area of 1,400 hectares (3,500 acres) surrounding the small town of San Patricio del Chana on the Neuquen River. Around 85 percent of grape production from the area is given over to red varieties with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir best suited to the terroir. Popular white varieties are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
The first commercial vineyards in the region were planted as recently as 1999, after wine producers were encouraged by the international success of the wines of Mendoza. A large area of land on the edge of the Neuquen River was developed and planted with vines – the first large-scale vintage being released in 2003.
The pioneering winery that developed the land, Bodega del Fin del Mundo, has since sold off pockets to other premium producers, encouraging the growth of Neuquen as a wine region in the past decade.
The Neuquen viticultural region is markedly different from most of the rest of Argentina. Elevations here reach only about 300 meters (1,000feet) above sea level – relatively low for a country where the highest vineyards are found at altitudes of around 3,000m (10,000ft). The climate is significantly cooler than in Mendoza, and the Andes, 240 kilometers (150 miles) to the west, have little to no effect on viticulture in Neuquen.
Strong desert winds and hot sun combine to provide a climate in Neuquen that is sufficiently temperate for viticulture. Warm, sunny days are followed by brisk desert nights, and the diurnal temperature variation that results extends the growing season. This allows the grapes time to develop fruit complexity without sacrificing acidity, and the wines are well balanced as a result.
This windy part of the desert is fed by the Neuquen River, which brings meltwater from the Andes to hydrate the vineyards. The stony alluvial soils are well drained, and allow root systems to grow deeply into the ground in order to access important minerals and hydration. The healthy vines that result produce high-quality grapes with an excellent concentration of sugars and acids.
6. CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the
tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
References
https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-patagonia
https://www.winetourism.com/wine-region/patagonia/
https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/pinot-noir/koskil-pinot-noir-patagonia/p/240888750
https://vinodelsol.com/thewineries/wapisa/
https://www.plummarket.com/store/2019-wapisa-cabernet-sauvignon-patagonia-019-0.html
https://bodegahcanale.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/FICHA-HCgranReserva-Merlot-Ingl.pdf
https://winesofargentina.org/en/winery/humberto-canale
https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-rio+negro
https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-neuquen
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Laughing Matter:
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Tasting No 257– September 26, 2023 – Wines of Casablanca Valley, Chile 
The producer: Viñedos Veramonte was founded in 1992 and dedicated to farming organically. It is one of the pioneers of the Casablanca Valley and has been recognized for over 25 years for its distinctive wines.
The producer: Bodega Montsecano is a collaboration between Ostertag of the legendary Domaine Ostertag, in Alsace, and Julio Donoso of Chile, which started in 2005. They planted 4 hectares of Pinot Noir in Las Dichas, Casablanca, and built a small winery and cellar on the property. The vineyard is biodynamically farmed and is plowed by horse. The undergound geothermal winery is shaped like an egg, and the wine are vinified exclusively in concrete egg and stainless steel. 
Winemaker Notes: From the same producer Bodega Montsecano, this 100% biodynamic hand harvested, single vineyard Pinot Noir is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel and concrete eggs. Dark ripe cherry and black fruits jump out of the glass with underlying raspberry fruit notes. A condensed and dark spiraling mid-palate shows layers of minerality and complexity, with hints of wet crushed rock (granite), sage, clove and blueberry . Rich full fruit, mineral driven, with a long, generous, smooth finish.
The producer: Viña Cono Sur was founded in 1993 by Viña Concha y Toro in 1993 and is based in Cochagua Valley with the vision of an independent winery with a focus on premium, sustainable wines. Cono Sur prides itself on its pioneering and innovative spirit. It is particularly notable for its wines made from Pinot Noir, and in particular the flagship Ocio, but makes a range of wines from many of Chile’s key grape varieties. The estate has grown considerably since, and now Cono Sur makes wines in most of Chile’s key winegrowing regions. However, Cono Sur’s most important region is arguably the Casablanca Valley, where the Pinot Noir grapes for the Ocio wine are sourced. They were the first in Chile to produce and export Premium Pinot Noir.
Tasting No 256 – August 29, 2023, 12:30 PM
The valley was first planted with grapes in the 16th century by Spanish missionaries. The valley’s wine industry began to grow rapidly in the 1980s and 1990s. Heavy French investment and cutting-edge technology in both the vineyard and the winery has been a boon to the local viticultural industry, which already laid claim to ancient vines and a textbook Mediterranean climate. The warm, dry growing season in the Colchagua Valley favors robust reds made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Malbec and Syrah—in fact, some of Chile’s very best are made here.
Casa Lapostolle is a renowned Chilean winery located in the Colchagua Valley, with special high-end facilities in the Apalta Valley. The winery was founded in 1994 by Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle and her husband Cyril de Bournet, members of the French Marnier Lapostolle family, known for producing Grand Marnier liqueur.
actually the long lost Carménère variety of Bordeaux. Finally in 1998, Chile officially recognized Carménère as a specific variety.
D.O.: Apalta Blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot
D.O. Apalta Blend: 97% Carménère, 3% Sirah Alcohol Content: 14.5% vol.
D.O.: Apalta Blend: 49% Carménère , 30% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvugnon, 3% Petit Verdot Alcohol Content: 14.5% vol.
D.O.: Apalta Type of Wine: Bordeaux Blend Blend: 64% Carménère, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot. Alcohol Content: 15% vol.
Argentina and Uruguay. We endeavored to choose white wines that we believe are distinctive and represent well the regions and varietals. Hence we selected an Albarino from Uruguay and three wines from Mendoza, Argentina, a Semillon, a Chardonnay and a Chardonnay blend.
The Maldonado wine region is located along the Atlantic Ocean in the southeast of Uruguay, the province includes the famous city of Punta del Este. The Maldonado wine region has a maritime climate with mild temperatures and cool breezes that moderate the heat in the summer months. Compared to other wine regions in Uruguay, the Maldonado wine region has a high altitude and great geological diversity. There is a range of interesting soils including crystalline rocks, quarts, alluvial, and gravel soils. The soils are quite soft and have excellent drainage and permeability, making them perfect for viticulture.
Characteristics:
Wine selection. The selected wines – Malbec, Red Blend, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – are representative (about 75%) of the wines produced in the Uco Valley.
Regions: Gualtallary District, Tupungato Region, Uco Valley, 1,450m average elevation
The wine: Vintage: 2020 Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Varietal Composition: 65% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet franc.
The wine: Vintage: 2018
Tasting No 253 – May 30/2023 – Beyond Malbec: other wines with deep-rooted Argentinian identity
Torrontés involves a group of three distinct varieties – Torrontés Riojano, Torrontés Sanjuanino and Torrontés Mendocino – all native to South America. They are a natural cross between the mission grape País (a red grape) and the sweet Muscat of Alexandria grape (also known as Zibbibo), and first appeared in the north of Argentina. Of the three varieties, the most popular (and most delicious) is the Torrontés Riojano, which grows dominantly in northern Salta. Other regions such as Mendoza and La Rioja produce a lot of Torrontés wines using the other two varieties of Torrontés, but these tend to be much simpler in aroma and taste and often made in a sweet style. The wine smells sweet but is usually made in a dry style. Albariño and dry styles of Riesling and Muscat Blanc (dry “Moscatel” from Portugal) are similar in aroma and taste to Torrontés.
The Torrontés thrive in Argentina’s high-altitude vineyards, particularly in the Cafayate region of Salta, where T. Riojano is grown. This region, on the edge of the Andes, boasts some of the highest vineyards in the world, reaching up to around 10,000 feet (3,000m) above sea level. Here, dry, desert-like conditions and a significant diurnal temperature shift help bring out the best qualities of Torrontés. The soils in Cafayate consist mostly of free-draining chalky loam and in some areas can be quite rocky. The dry soil causes stress in the vines which causes them to produce less vegetation and not as many grapes. As there are fewer grapes, it means the concentration of flavors within the grapes rises. New plantations in the higher parts of the Uco Valley in Mendoza are promising too.
About the grape: Bonarda, as it is called in Argentina, is not supposed to be called Bonarda: the actual true Bonarda grapes are a group of at least six distinct Italian grape varieties, the most well-known of them being Bonarda Piemontese.
Bonarda is very important viticulturally in Argentina, where it is second only to Malbec in terms of acreage. In all, Bonarda accounts for over 18,000 hectares (45,000 acres) in the country, representing nearly 10 percent of all grapes grown there. Bonarda has been used to make fruity, medium-bodied bulk wines with low tannins. However, more recently some producers began looking more seriously at Bonarda, discovering its great potential as a varietal, especially for its adaptability to warmer areas, and using site selection and winemaking techniques to make more interesting and premium wines. Of the total cultivated in Argentina, 60% is found in Eastern Mendoza, a warm area located at about 700-800 meters above sea level, where it does best, because of its long hang time required to reach phenolic maturation.
– The Producer: Dominio del Plata is an Argentinian wine company founded and owned by leading winemaker Susana Balbo since 1999. The winery is located in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, with vineyard plots in several subregions of the Uco Valley. The Crios label features a wide range of monovarietal and blended wines for everyday consumption, including a Malbec rosé. The winery mainly ferments the wine in stainless steel tanks, though concrete eggs have been introduced for premium wines. The Torrontés grapes are sourced from Cafayate, Salta, and the highest vineyards in Valle de Uco, Mendoza.
– The producer: The sister brand of Altos Las Hormigas winery, Colonia Las Liebres was established in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza to focus solely on the cultivation of Bonarda grapes and was one of the original makers of export-quality single-varietal Bonarda. It makes fresh, juicy and great value Bonarda reds, as well as an excellent traditional method rosé bubbly, and even a sparkling red (named Brusca, in ode to its Italian inspiration).
– The Producer. El Enemigo is a cult wine producer based in Mendoza. The estate is a joint venture by Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil, the chief winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2002. The pair created El Enemigo and the “Bodega Aleanna” in 2007. The estate focuses on traditional winemaking techniques and produces two wine ranges: Gran Enemigo and El Enemigo. The El Enemigo range is devoted to varietal wines made from Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Bonarda and Chardonnay, while the Gran Enemigo range includes Bordeaux blends, and a number of single vineyard Cabernet Franc wines.
Bodega Santa Julia, built in 1968, in Mendoza by Alberto Zuccardi. The Familia Zuccardi bodega was established in 2013 in the Valle de Uco, by Alberto’s grandson, Sebastián. Today he leads a young team of agricultural engineers and enologists charged with producing the highest quality wines in the Uco Valley.
The Aconcagua Valley was chosen for this tasting because of its unique viticultural climate. The Mediterranean climate in this valley ensures the warm, dry summers, the bright sunny days, and the cold, rainy winters that the vines love. In addition, the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean’s Humboldt current and the down-drift winds of the Andes Mountains create unique climate conditions with cooling midday breezes, cold nights, and a broad daily temperature oscillation that also extends the ripening period so that the grapes develop intense fruit flavors, ripe tannins, deep color, and crisp acidity.
With 150 years to its name, you might be forgiven for thinking Errázuriz is a historical winery – it is, but it is also one of the most innovative and forward-thinking producers in Chile. The wine portfolio is almost endless, and their treasures include the ‘Aconcagua Costa’ range, from the cooler parts of Aconcagua Valley, and the ‘Las Pizzaras’ Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on slate soils. Their most famous wine is ‘Don Maximiano’, a rich Cabernet-based blend from the warmer Aconcagua Andes.
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Situated 500 km South of Santiago, the first vineyards were planted in the 16th century.
Stretches from the coast to the Andes. Vineyards planted in all three geographical designations (Costa, Entre Cordilleras, and Andes).
The Producer: Roberto Henriques, a leading winemaker in Bio Bio and Itata, has a small winery focusing on making natural wine on an artisanal scale. It produces distinctive natural wines from old vines and often helps resuscitate abandoned vineyards.
The Producer: Pedro Parra y Family is the boutique, family winery of renowned terroir expert Pedro Parra, focusing on an artisanal production of natural wines made from old vines of Pais and Cinsault in Itata and Bio Bio. Pedro Parra produces a series of Cinsault wines to show his interpretation of the granitic soils of Itata.
The Producer: Two people – Leonardo Erazo and Justin Decker – started Rogue Vine in 2011, in a one-car garage in Concepción with a project to make natural wines from ‘the forgotten old bush vines almost falling out of steep granitic hills in Itata.’
The Producer: Viña Seña: Single-estate, single-wine operation joint venture in the Aconcagua Valley founded by Robert Mondavi and Eduardo Chadwick of Errazuriz in 1995. Their aim was to make a wine that would demonstrate the full potential of Chile and that would be welcomed among the world’s First Growth.
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