Tasting No 284 – December 16, 2025 Favorites of 2025

Club del Vino, Washington DC

Tasting No 284 – December 16, 2025

Favorite Wines of 2025:  A Global Tour de Force

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

What a way to close out 2025! Our last tasting of the year introduces four wines that, in very different ways, punched well above their weight and reminded us why we do this every month. From granite-kissed Swartland bush vines; to a non-vintage, multi-regional Italian red sold in supermarkets; to one of the most compelling Hermitage Syrah produced in the Rhone Valley, and to grapes frozen on the vine under the Canadian winter sky; we will taste ambition, value, tradition, and sheer hedonism. Here’s the recap of the standouts that earned their place on our “Favorites of 2025” list.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Ruth Connolly, Ginger Smart, and Michelle Fryer

Participants: TBA

These are the wines:

  1. A. Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs Chenin Blanc’, Swartland, South Africa 2025,
  2. Grande Alberone, Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy
  3. Domaine de Remizières, Hermitage ‘Cuvée Emilie’, France, 2019
  4. Specialty Selection Vidal Ice Wine Reserve, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 2021

The Menu:  

  • Clams in saffron sauce
  • Spaghetti in marinara sauce with meatballs
  • Grilled lamb with vegetables
  • Cheese plate, coffee and tea.The Wines

-Wine #1. A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs Chenin Blanc’, Swartland, South Africa, 2025

Ruth’s Favorite White Wine:  Some ten to fifteen years ago, perhaps in one of our Club de Vino tastings and perhaps not, I encountered a white wine from South Africa that impressed me as no other white wine I ever tasted, and whose 24-carat gold color and strong flavor has stayed with me to this day. So, when Ginger, Michelle and I discussed presenting our all-time favorite wines for today’s tasting, logic dictated that I present this wine. There was only one problem, I didn’t remember its name, its grape, or the year of its production.  After several calls to wine shops elicited statements regarding the impossibility of finding such a needle in the proverbial haystack, my neighborhood merchant volunteered to look. He was successful.

The wine I am presenting today – the 2025 vintage of a South African Chenin Blanc entitled ‘Badenhorst Secateurs’, and in production for the last 16 years, is hopefully the valid successor of the wine I tasted years ago.

The Producer:  AA Badenhorst Family Wines is a family-owned estate in South Africa’s Swartland appellation managed by cousins Adi and Hein Badenhorst.  Adi, the lead winemaker, draws on extensive experience, including time at Rustenberg and Château Angélus in Bordeaux. His grandfather oversaw Groot Constantia for 46 years, fostering a deep respect for heritage. In 2008, Adi acquired a neglected farm in Siebritskloof on Paardeberg Mountain, restoring a 1930s cellar to produce natural wines from old, dry-farmed bush vines. The 60-hectare estate emphasizes sustainable, low-intervention practices with traditional wine-making equipment.

Geography and Terroir:  Swartland, named “black land” in Afrikaans for its dark, fertile soils that once supported wild rhinoceroses, is better known today for its winemakers. Located about an hour north of Cape Town, this region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers moderated by cool Atlantic breezes. Paardeberg Mountain’s decomposed granite soils, mixed with clay and sand, dominate the landscape. This terroir is key to the wine’s character. The granite imparts a distinct minerality and structure, while the old vines’ deep roots extract nuanced flavors from the earth. Low annual rainfall (approximately 400 mm) stresses the unirrigated old bush vines, yielding small, intensely flavored berries. The vineyards, primarily Chenin Blanc with Cinsault and Grenache, occupy north-, east-, and south-facing slopes, benefiting from varied granite types, clay, and shale subsoils. Unlike the cooler Loire Valley in France, Swartland’s warmth adds a riper, more tropical edge to Chenin Blanc, but the elevation and ocean influence keep acidity lively. It’s this balance that makes Swartland Chenin a standout—elegant yet robust, with a sense of place that’s unmistakably South African.

The Wine:  Secateurs is named after the clipping tool that is used to shape Baddenhorst’s bushvines during the winter pruning and to pick the ripe grapes in summer.  The first Secateurs Chenin Blanc bottled under the Badenhorst Family Wines range was in 2009.

The Grape:  Secateurs, named for the pruning shears used on the estate’s bush vines, debuted as a Badenhorst Family Wines Chenin Blanc in 2009. Chenin Blanc, originating in France’s Loire Valley and now South Africa’s most planted white variety, excels in dry, textured styles. Its high natural acidity ensures freshness and aging potential, while Swartland’s warmth adds ripe fruit character without sacrificing elegance. The 2025 Secateurs is 100% Chenin Blanc from old vines, delivering exceptional concentration and complexity.

Production and Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested in multiple passes for optimal ripeness, with low yields (around 4 tons per hectare). Minimal intervention defines the approach: whole-cluster pressing, native yeast fermentation in concrete tanks and large foudres (no new oak), and approximately seven months aging on lees in neutral vessels for texture and creaminess. Gentle practices—occasional stirring, no fining or heavy filtration—preserve purity and natural evolution while producing a structure that’s both structured and approachable.  The result? A Chenin that’s textured yet crisp, with a grippy mouthfeel from skin contact and lees work. The 2025 vintage reflects a dry summer that enhanced ripeness while maintaining balanced acidity and a subtle minerality.

  • Grape – 100% Chenin Blanc from old, dry-farmed bush vines
  • Vintage – 2025
  • Alcohol content – 13.5%
  • Bottle – 750ml
  • Soils – Granite-dominated
  • Region – Swartland
  • Aging – Foudres and neutral vessels; stony mineral influence

Pairings – seafood, chicken, salads, creamy sauces

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  Medium- to full-bodied and dry, this Chenin offers vibrant acidity, refreshing tannic structure, and exceptional texture from lees aging and old-vine intensity. Alcohol at 13.5% provides warmth but never overwhelms. Aromas feature honey, orange blossom, and white stone fruits (peach, pear). The palate reveals pink grapefruit, quince, persimmon, melon, honeysuckle, and stony mineral notes, with layered complexity and a grippy, concentrated mid-palate leading to a bright, tangy finish. Versatile for seafood, poultry, or spicy dishes, it evolves beautifully in the glass.

Winemaker’s Notes:   The Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2025 is a benchmark South African white, delivering complexity, texture, and vibrancy.  The flavor profile is aromatic with honey, orange blossom, peach, pear, melon, and citrus notes, balanced by minerality and a fresh finish.  Aged in foudres, it displays a distinctive stony character, precise flavors of peach, pear, and pink grapefruit, substantial palate weight, and remarkable drinkability—a compelling introduction to Cape Chenin Blanc.

Wine #2.  Grande Alberone, Quintis Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy

Ginger’s Favorite Red:  Grande Alberone Quintus is a non-vintage, multi-regional Italian red blend that delivers bold complexity and approachability at an exceptional value.  This popular Italian wine is typically a blend of various red grapes, offering dark berries, cherries, and hints of chocolate on the nose, transitioning to flavors of dark fruits, spices, and velvety texture on the palate with a long, elegant finish.  Frequently available through supermarket chains such as Aldi, it showcases Italy’s diverse winemaking heritage through harmonious integration of fruit, spice, and structure.

The Producer:  Grande Alberone wines are produced by Provinco Italia, a Trentino-based subsidiary of Italian Wine Brands, one of Italy’s largest private wine groups. Provinco specializes in high-quality, accessible wines sourced from premier regions across the country, including Veneto, Trentino, Puglia, and Sicily. The focus is on sustainable practices, often incorporating organic grapes, and blending Italy’s extensive indigenous and international varieties to create expressive, personality-driven wines for large distribution outlets. Italian Wine Brands produces 24 proprietary brands of which some 80% is for export.  Winemaker Loris Delvai, who holds a degree in biology from University of Padua, collaborates closely with growers to select optimal parcels, drawing on deep terroir knowledge to craft acclaimed blends that have earned numerous gold medals and high scores; hence proving that thoughtful curation yields extraordinary results.

Geography and Terroir:  What sets Quintus apart is its embrace of Italy’s kaleidoscopic geography and terroir-driven nuances.  As a Vino d’Italia IGT, Quintus embraces Italy’s geographic diversity, sourcing grapes from northern continental climates (cool nights and brisk winds that preserve acidity) to southern Mediterranean zones (ripe, generous fruit from volcanic and sun-drenched soils). Key regions include Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Puglia, and Sicily, though specifics remain a guarded secret.  Soils vary from clay-rich for structure, sandy coastal for elegance, mineral hills for finesse, and volcanic for smoky depth. Annual rainfall varies from 600mm in the wetter north to drought-prone 300mm south, stressing vines to yield small, flavorful berries.

The Wine:  Grande Alberone Rosso is a popular Italian wine known for its bold, complex flavor profile, offering notes of dark berries, cherries, and hints of chocolate on the nose, transitioning to flavors of dark fruits, spices, and a velvety texture on the palate, with a long, elegant finish reminiscent of Amarone.

At its core, Quintus is a bold blend of emblematic red varieties: Primitivo (Zinfandel), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teroldego—all organically sourced.  I refer to the blend as a “mongered mutt” but an extremely loveable (or in this case drinkable) one.  The areas these grapes come from are Trentino-Alto Adige, Fiuli-Venezia Giulia. Veneto, Puglia, and Sicily.  This quartet, all organic-sourced, exemplifies Italy’s grape diversity. combining Primitivo’s boldness, Merlot’s plushness, Cabernet’s structure, and Teroldego’s earthy herbal notes for a robust yet versatile wine.

Production and Vinification:  Production for Quintus prioritizes purity and precision.  Grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness, with modest yields (6-8 tons/hectare) ensuring concentration. In Profinco’s state-of-the-art facilities, they are destemmed, gently crushed, and macerated (7-10 days) at controlled temperatures to extract color, aromas, and balanced tannins. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks (24-26°C) using selected yeasts, followed by malolactic conversion for silkiness and brief lees rest for creaminess. Aging lasts 4-6 months in predominantly second-use French oak barriques, adding subtle complexity without dominating fruit. The non-vintage designation allows annual selection of the finest parcels for consistency. Bottled with light filtration. Alcohol: 14.5%.

  • Grape – Blend of Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teroldego (organic).
  • Vintage – Non vintage
  • Alcohol – 14.5% ABV
  • Bottle – 750ml
  • Pairings – Roasted meats, tomato-based pasta, aged cheeses, chocolate desserts

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  Full-bodied with deep garnet hue, Quintus is dry, structured, and elegant, featuring firm yet integrated tannins, medium-plus acidity, and persistent length. Aromas evoke vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, clove, and subtle spice. The palate offers plush blackberry, cherry confit, raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness, evolving to savory baking spices, mineral streaks, and oak-kissed vanilla. Texturally silky mid-palate with grippy finish, it unfolds over time in the decanter. Versatile for pairing, it’s food-friendly without being fussy. Approachable young but capable of developing tertiary notes through 2030. Ideal slightly chilled in summer or at room temperature with winter dishes.

Winemaker’s Notes:  Full-bodied with deep garnet hue, Quintus is dry, structured, and elegant, featuring firm yet integrated tannins, medium-plus acidity, and persistent length. Aromas evoke vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, clove, and subtle spice. The palate offers plush blackberry, cherry confit, raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness, evolving to savory baking spices, mineral streaks, and oak-kissed vanilla. Texturally silky mid-palate with grippy finish, it unfolds over time in the decanter. Approachable young but capable of developing tertiary notes through 2030. Ideal slightly chilled in summer or at room temperature with winter dishes.

Swirl to release intense ruby depths. Nose: Vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, with a whisper of clove. Palate: Full-bodied entry of blackberry and strawberry confit, mid-palate blooming with raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness. Firm tannins frame bright acidity, leading to a spicy, fruit-pure finish with lingering plum skin and vanilla. Balanced and inviting—chill slightly for summer, or room temp for winter roasts. Decant for 45 minutes.  Drink now through 2030 for peak harmony.

Wine #3.  2025 Club del Vino “Best of the Best” selection:  Domaine de Remizières, ‘Cuvée Emilie’, Hermitage, Rhone, France, 2019

Émilie and Christophe Desmeure are making some of the most compelling Hermitage produced today.  In fact, the 2019 Domaine des Remizières Hermitage Cuvée Émilie was rated the #1 of all 44 wines tasted by Club del Vino members in 2025.  This opulent Syah from the legendary Hermitage appellation offers an intense and complex experience that embodies the region’s storied prestige—bold yet refined, structured for the cellar yet whispering an invitation to sip now.

The Producer:  Domaine des Remizières, located in Tain-l’Hermitage, traces its origins to 1973 when Philippe Desmeure began selling grapes to the local cooperative.  The estate pivoted to estate-bottled wines in 1977, marking a bold step toward independence. Today, the 38-hectare estate—spanning Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Saint-Joseph—is led by Philippe’s daughter Émilie Desmeure, who oversees winemaking with a blend of tradition and intuition.  Her namesake cuvée debuted in 1995 as a tribute to her vision.  High-density plantings (over 10,000 vines/hectare) of 40-year-old bush-trained Syrah in key lieux-dits, such as Les Grandes Vignes, yield low quantities (27–40 hectoliters /ha) for concentration. With a focus on organic-leaning viticulture and hand labor on steep terraces, the Domaine’s philosophy emphasizes minimal intervention, sustainable practices, and plot-specific harvesting.  This has earned the winery Haute Valeur Environnementale (High Environmental Value) certification.

Geography and Terroir:  Hermitage, France’s most revered Syrah enclave, rises dramatically from the Rhône River’s east bank, just south of Valence. This compact 136-hectare AOC features precipitous, south-facing granite slopes (up to 30% gradient) that bask in Mediterranean sun while tempered by the fierce Mistral winds.

Terroir is Hermitage’s magic: decomposed granite soils, laced with quartz pebbles and mica schist, impart a signature minerality and firm structure—think “stony elegance” that elevates Syrah beyond a mere fruit bomb. Les Grandes Vignes, at the hill’s base, offers slightly clay-influenced granitic sand for opulent ripeness, while higher plots add tension. Low rainfall (500-600mm annually) stresses the vines, fostering deep roots and small berries bursting with phenolic intensity. This interplay—sun-drenched exposure meeting wind-whipped resilience—yields wines of profound depth, where earth and ether converge.  The 2019 vintage benefited from a warm, dry season with cool nights, delivering ripe fruit and preserved acidity.

The Wine:  Domaine des Remizières Hermitage “Cuvée Emilie” is a stunning expression of Syrah from one of the most prestigious appellations in the Northern Rhone.  This wine presents a deep profile with rich aromas of dark berries, such as blackberries and blackcurrants, alongside hints of spices, tobacco, and sutle earthy notes.  On the palate, it is full-bodied with refined tannins, virant acidity, and a remarable balance of power and finesse.  The wine’s depth is complemented by a long, elegant finish.  A perfect match for roasted meats, game, or rich savory dishes, “Cuvee Emilie” is a wine that promises both immediate enjoyment and excellent aging potential.

Brought up all in new oak, the 2019 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie reveals a dense purple color as well as cassis and blackberry fruits, notes of scorched earth, graphite, crushed stone, and burning embers, full body, ripe, building tannins, and a great finish. It needs 4-5 years to integrate its oak and should have 25+ years of overall longevity.

The Grape:  Syrah reigns supreme in Hermitage and old vines amplify complexity.  The 2019 Cuvee Emilie is comprised of  100% Syrah grapes sourced from two prestigious Hermitage lieux-dits:  Les Grandes Vignes (40-year-old vines on a granite hillside) and Les Rocoules (80+ year-old-vines on alluvial soils). Syrah thrives on granite, evolving from peppery youth to savory maturity. Émilie’s selection of fruit from prime parcels ensures vibrancy.  In 2019’s benevolent climate, the Syrah grape ripened to 14%-14.5% ABV with silky skins, delivering ripe fruit and preserved acidity.

Production and Vinification:  Production at Remizières is a labor of precision, starting in the vineyard with hand-harvesting over multiple passes to capture phenolic ripeness. Yields are rigorously controlled, with manual sorting at the winery eliminating all but the finest berries. Émilie favors reasoned sulfites and biodynamic impulses, fostering microbial diversity for authentic ferments.

Hand-harvested grapes undergo rigorous sorting and full destemming. Cold pre-fermentation maceration (5–7 days) extracts aromas gently.  Alcoholic fermentation, sparked by indigenous yeasts, lasts 10-15 days in concrete and stainless-steel vats, daily punch-downs/pump-overs (28–30°C), and extended post-fermentation maceration (up to 30+ days). Malolactic fermentation softens acidity. This hands-on approach, rooted in the domaine’s 50-year evolution, yields wines of power and poise.

Aging occurs 15–18 months in 80–100% new French oak barriques, with lees stirring for creaminess. Minimal fining and filtration preserve authenticity.

  • Grape – 100% Syrah
  • Vintage – 2019
  • Appellation – Hermitage AOC, Northern Rhône
  • Aging – Aged 15-18 months in 80% new, French oak barrels
  • Alcohol – 14.5%

Aging potential – Cellar 4–5 years for integration; enjoy through 2040+

Pairing – red meats (grilled steaks), game, lamb, charcuterie, mushroom risotto.

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  This 2019 Cuvée Émilie is a full-bodied powerhouse cloaked in dense purple hues that hint at its depth. Aromas of cassis, blackberry, scorched earth, graphite, licorice, toasted clove, and subtle oak. The palate layers black fruits with smoky, mineral, and floral elements (mint, mesquite), evolving to olive and leather notes. Long, graphite-edged finish. Ripe, building tannins provide architecture without austerity—supple now, yet promising evolution. Medium-high acidity cuts through richness, ensuring freshness amid concentration. Texturally, it’s broad-shouldered with a velvety mid-palate, finishing with graphite-edged persistence (45+ seconds). Decant young bottles 2–4 hours; serve at 15–16°C.  Cellar 5-7 years for silkier tannins; peak drinking through 2040.

Winemaker’s Notes: Full-bodied wine with a lot of sweetness, good acidity, and some pleasant bitterness. Color is Steady.  Tannins are described as supple and soft tannic. On the nose, red fruits aromas when it is young, spices aromas after a few years. The wine is described as having an inky, licorice scent. On the palate, this Syrah offers flavors of boysenberry, black fig, and black currant, with hints of mesquite, vanilla, and clove. The wine also has a smoky, earthy undertone. It is expected to improve with cellaring.

Domaine des Remizières Hermitage when young, should be decanted at least 2-4 hours, give or take, allowing the wines to soften and open their perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment.  Domaine des Remizières is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift.

 

-Wine #4. Ginger’s pick:  Specialty Selection Ice-wine Vidal Reserve, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 2021

This Ice-wine is produced from grapes naturally frozen on the vine in cold climates, concentrating sugars and resulting in an intensely sweet dessert wine. Sourced from the Niagara region in Ontario, Canada, this reserve offering exhibits high viscosity, a deep golden hue, and prominent fruity notes of peach, lemon, and toffee. Served chilled, it delivers a balanced profile where pronounced sweetness is offset by vibrant acidity.

The Producer:  Specialty Selection is a curated collection from Andrew Peller Ltd., one of Canada’s largest and most respected wine producers. With flagship operations in the Niagara Peninsula, the company upholds rigorous VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) standards.  Their portfolio includes icons like Peller Estates and Wayne Gretzky Estates, but the Specialty Selection line spotlights premium, limited-production wines like this Vidal Reserve—sourced from select partner vineyards to showcase peak quality.

The grapes for this Ice-wine hail from mature Vidal vines in Niagara-on-the-Lake, planted in the 1980s and beyond, where low yields (often 1-2 tons per acre) ensure intensity. These “reserve” berries are rigorously selected: only the healthiest clusters, enduring multiple freeze-thaw cycles, make the cut. Peller’s winemakers, led by experts like Dr. Wendy Ing from the Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Institute, emphasize sustainable practices such as herbicide-free cultivation, cover cropping, and nocturnal hand-harvesting.

Geography and Terroir:  Nestled on the southern shores of Lake Ontario, the Niagara Peninsula spans 150 km of rolling vineyards, with the sub-appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake being Icewine central. This VQA zone, just minutes from the thundering falls, boasts a continental climate moderated by the lake’s thermal mass: balmy summers (up to 30°C) ripen grapes slowly, while brutal winters plunge to -10°C or lower, ideal for natural freeze. The Escarpment—a limestone ridge—shields vines from harsh northwest winds, creating micro-pockets of “lake effect” warmth that delay dormancy and concentrate flavors.

Terroir here is a glacial gift: clay-loam soils over ancient limestone bedrock retain moisture in summer and drain well in winter, imparting minerality and structure. Sandy subsoils add finesse, while the lake’s humidity fosters noble rot-like dehydration without Botrytis risk. Annual rainfall (800-900mm) and diurnal swings (15-20°C day-night) build acidity, essential for balancing Icewine’s sugars. In challenging years like 2024’s variable frost, only the hardiest sites produce.

The Wine:  Ice-wine Vidal has a beautiful pale gold color with high viscosity (10.5% ABV, but plenty of RS).  The nose has intense aromas of honey, apricot, orange peel, candied/sugared citrus rings, white blossom and yellow apple.  The palate is sweet with high acidity and a full body.  Rich flavors of honey, apricot, orange zest and a tropical note like candied pineapple combine for a medium-length finish that is silky smooth.

The Grape:  Vidal Blanc, a resilient French hybrid, bred in the 1930s for Cognac, found its calling in Canada’s cold climate after arriving in the 1940s. Thick-skinned and resilient, it withstands -25°C freezes without splitting, It accounts for the majority (80%) of Ontario’s icewine production, achieving high sugar levels (35–40° Brix) while retaining sharp acidity.

Production and Vinification:  Ice-wine production is extreme oenology.  Grapes remain on the vine until temperatures drop consistently to –8°C to –12°C, typically in December or January. Harvest occurs at night, followed by immediate whole-cluster pressing to yield minimal (1 glass/vine), highly concentrated juice, yielding just 5-10% juice. Fermentation in stainless steel is slow and cool, stopping naturally to retain substantial residual sugar (approximately 220 g/L).  Bottled in spring, it’s unfiltered to preserve aromatics—a testament to Peller’s cool-climate mastery.

  • Grape – 100% Vidal
  • Vintage – 2021
  • Region – Lake Ontario, Niagara region
  • Appellation: VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) – Niagara -on-the-Lake
  • Alcohol – 10.5%
  • Aging Potential: Drink now through 2035; develops honeyed complexity with time

Pairings: Blue cheese, fruit tarts, almond cake, dark chocolate, or spicy dishes

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  This golden-hued Reserve is viscous yet lively: full-bodied with 10.5% ABV, it coats the palate like liquid silk, balanced by piercing acidity that prevents cloying. The profile is a tropical reverie: ripe stone fruits lead, laced with floral honeysuckle and citrus zest. Aromas evoke peach jam, mango, and candied orange peel, with undertones of nutmeg and wet stone.  Texturally, it’s ideal for sipping chilled (8-10°C) in small glasses. Versatile: elevates blue cheese, sorbets, or spicy Asian fare. Cellar 5-10 years for honeyed tertiary notes; sustainable viticulture adds ethical allure.

Chill and swirl the deep amber elixir. Nose: Explosive honeyed peach, ripe pineapple, orange blossom, with flinty minerality. Palate: Lush entry of mango and apricot confit, mid-palate blooming with tangerine, butterscotch, and subtle spice; vibrant acidity slices through, finishing with lingering grapefruit pith and candied ginger. Harmonious and hedonistic—pour sparingly for dessert. The sweet wine is sold in a skinny, half-size bottle (375 mL rather than the standard 750 mL), and typically served in portions of 1.5-2 ounces. Drink now through 2035.

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Tasting 283 November 18, 2025 Pinot Noir

Tasting 283 November 18, 2025  Pinot Noir

         Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this blind tasting is to compare and contrast Pinot Noir wines produced in different regions of the world. The presentersm have chosen wines that are distinctive, from the same vintage, in the same price range. The wines were served in a random order all at the same time. At the end, all participants ranked the wines before revealing them and their prices. The wines  are from the following regions: Argentina (Uco Valley), Chile (Limari Valley), New Zealand (Malborough) and USA (Virginia).

Type of tasting: Blind

Presenters: Erico Silva and Ricardo Santiago

Participants: S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; C. and A. Perazza; J. and Redwood; J. Requena; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Vega; and Marilda Averbug (guest). 

These are the wines:

  1. Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022
  2. Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, Valle de Uco, Mendoza,  2022
  3. Ankida Ridge, Pinot Noir, Virginia, 2022
  4. Concha y Toro, Amelia, Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari,  2022
  1. Menu
  • Calamari fritti with mild fra-diavolo sauce
  • Ravioli de Vitello in aurora sauce
  • Salmone alla griglia con funghi
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.
  1. Brief History of Pinot Noir Around the World

Yacsire Cutler and Orlando Mason presented an excellent brief history of Pinot Noir for their Tasting No 277 presentation, which we are including here for context and reference:

Pinot Noir is one of the oldest and most celebrated grape varieties in the world, known for producing elegant, complex red wines. It is believed to be over 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest known grape varieties still in use. It likely originated in northeastern France, possibly around Burgundy, and there are records of being cultivated during the first century A.D.  The name “Pinot” comes from the French word “pin” (pine), referencing the grape’s tightly clustered, pinecone-shaped bunches. “Noir” means black, referring to the color of the grape.

The Burgundy region of France is therefore considered the birthplace of Pinot Noir. Monks in the Middle Ages, were crucial in refining the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy, identifying the best vineyard sites. Burgundy’s deep association with the concept of terroir—how soil, climate, and vineyard location affect the wine—was largely shaped by Pinot Noir cultivation.

Pinot Noir has been know as known to be a “temperamental” grape. It prefers cool to moderate climates, heat can mute its finesse and freshness. It is difficult to cultivate and vinify consistently due to its delicacy and susceptibility to mutation and rot. Because of its thin skin it doesn’t stand up as well to high heat, too much sun, hail or too much rain as hardier, thicker-skinned grapes; in addition, the grapes in the clusters are close together, making them more prone to mildew and rot in very damp conditions. Its prone to millerandage (uneven grape development).  Pinot noir is highly reflective of the soil and climate where it is grown (especially in Burgundy).

Pinot Noir primary flavors are red fruit – cherry, strawberry, raspberry. It often shows earthy, floral, and herbal tones—such as mushroom, rose petal, forest floor, tea leaves, clove and cinnamon.  Younger Pinot is bright and juicy.  Aged Pinot Noir: Can develop complex flavors like dried fruit, leather, game, and truffle.

Pinot Noir wines are generally light to medium bodied, low to medium tannins with a silky or soft texture, and naturally high acidity which helps it age and pair well with food. Alcohol content is typically moderate (12-14.5%.) Its color is pale to medium ruby or garnet. It is one of the lightest red wines in appearance.

In the 19th–20th centuries Pinot Noir began spreading to other parts of the world. Globally, Pinot Noir is one of the major red grape varieties, but it ranks behind more widely planted and robust varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In total plantation, Pinot Noir is about 1/3 of Cabernet Sauvignon and less than Merlot, Tempranillo and Shiraz.”

The top dozen Pinot Noir producing countries by area, in 2023 are: France; USA; Germany; Italy; Australia; New Zealand; Chile; Switzerland; Romania; Argentina; Moldova; and South Africa.

  1. The Countries for this Tasting

We have selected wines from three small producing countries New Zealand, Argentina, and Chile, and the United States. In the case of the United States, we selected a wine from Virginia, an exceedingly small producer of Pinot Noir.

NEW ZEALAND – The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is relatively young, but it’s a story of rapid rise and global acclaim. In just a few decades, New Zealand has established itself as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the Southern Hemisphere, known for purity, elegance, and vibrant fruit.  The earliest vine plantings in New Zealand go back to the 1800s, brought by European settlers, but it didn’t catch on due to lack of wine infrastructure, limited viticultural knowledge, and inappropriate vineyard sites. It is only in the 1970s, that the modern New Zealand wine industry began to take shape, particularly in regions like Martinborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago, where the first producer recognized that the cool, dry climate and free-draining soils mirrored conditions in Burgundy The current trends are: greater focus on single-vineyard bottlings and sustainable practices; use of native yeasts, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal intervention; and increasing comparisons to Burgundy, especially from Martinborough and Central Otago.

New Zealand Pinot Noirs are noted for bright cherry and berry fruit, silky tannins, balanced acidity and transparency of terroir. In particular Central Otago, with its high-altitude vineyards, continental climate, and dramatic temperature swings, is considered ideal for Pinot Noir wines that are characterized as bold, structured and fruit forward.

ARGENTINA – Pinot Noir in Argentina is a niche production, with about 2,000 hectares of cultivation. Making great Pinot Noir is often seen as the holy grail of winemaking, a quest that Argentine Producers have been chasing for decades. The earliest Pinot Noir success in Argentina was actually as sparkling wine and many of the Pinot Noir clones available in Argentina are Champagne clones used for sparkling wine rather than still reds. Since the 2000’s producers have changed their genetic selection and red Pinot Noir wines have improved greatly. The best Pinot Noir comes from the cooler regions of high altitude Uco Valley (notably Galtallary) and low altitude Rio Negro [Barnes, 2022].

UNITED STATES – Pinot Noir was first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th century, primarily by European immigrants bringing vine cuttings with them. Initial plantings were scattered and experimental, and the grape didn’t gain immediate traction due to its sensitivity to climate and soil.  In the early 20th century, California saw some of the earliest serious attempts at cultivating Pinot Noir, particularly in areas like the Santa Cruz Mountains and later in Sonoma and Napa. However, it wasn’t until after Prohibition that efforts really picked up again. A major turning point came in the 1960’s when planting Pinot Noir began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  By the 1980’s and 1990’s, both Oregon and cooler parts of California were producing world-class Pinot Noir. The grape became known for its elegance, complexity, and expression of terroir. American Pinot Noirs gained further credibility on the world stage after Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve placed well in international tastings. Pinot Noir is now one of the most prestigious and sought-after varietals in the U.S. Willamette Valley is widely considered one of the top Pinot-producing regions in the world, and California continues to innovate with diverse styles ranging from bold to delicate.  Stylistically, these wines range from types similar to Burgundy’s (leaner, with firmer tannins and earth and mineral accents) to plusher and riper versions with rich dark fruit and spice notes, and styles in between.

Specifically Carneros covers an area of 90 square miles on the southernmost foothills of the Mayacamas and Sonoma mountain ranges. This location sits between America’s two most famous wine-producing regions – the eastern half in Napa, the western half in Sonoma. In the 1880’s the Stanly Ranch in Carneros, with over 300 acres, was one of the largest vineyards in California and had significant Pinot Noir plantings..  The topography here – and the cool, windy mesoclimate it creates – is intimately connected with the style of wine produced here. This gives Carneros a much cooler, wetter climate than that found further north in the sheltered valleys. Carneros Pinot Noir has traditionally been lighter and tighter than those from other Californian regions, with notes of berries and herbs, rather than anything deeper and more opulent.

CHILE –  Pinot Noir likely arrived in Chile in the 19th century, brought by European settlers. However, it was not widely planted or seriously cultivated mainly because Chile’s central wine regions were too warm for Pinot to thrive. In the 1990s, Chilean winemakers began exploring coastal regions, realizing the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and Humboldt Current could support delicate grapes like Pinot Noir. Regions like Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley (especially Leyda), Limarí Valley, Bio-Bío and Itata in the south began to produce higher-quality, cooler-climate Pinot Noir.  Winemakers started to use better clones of Pinot Noir (especially Dijon clones from Burgundy); implement lower yields and more precise vineyard management; and experiment with oak aging, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention techniques.

The Leyda Valley region enjoys the effects of the cold Humboldt Current of the Pacific Ocean. The first vignerons appeared in Leyda in the late 1990s, attracted by a terroir that was almost perfect for the production of premium grapes, save for the lack of an abundant source of water for irrigation. A significant investment by a wine-producing family in the area saw the construction of a pipeline five miles (8km) long to channel water from the Maipo River in the south.The close proximity to the coast is what is driving growers to Leyda. Cold ocean breezes and morning fog moderate the overall temperatures, and the valley is therefore significantly cooler than its low latitude might suggest. These cool temperatures are complemented by warm sunshine during the long growing season, letting grapes ripen fully and develop complexity while still retaining acidity.  Leyda Valley’s soils are largely clay and loam over a granite base with moderate drainage. These low-fertility soils are good for the production of premium grapes because they make the vines struggle for survival. This results in vines that put all their energy into producing small, concentrated grapes rather than leafy foliage. Wines produced from these grapes tend to be structured and complex and Leyda Pinot Noir wines style is bright red fruit, floral, and elegant.

  1. The Wines

Wine #1. Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022, New Zealand

Marlborough Pinot Noir is produced in areas such as the Wairau and Southern Valleys, which feature varied soils and a climate that is both cool and sunny. The cool but high-sunshine climate with cool nights is ideal for Pinot Noir’s complex flavor development. Soils vary by subregion, including gravelly riverbed soils in the Wairau Valley, and heavy clay soils in the Southern Valleys, which contribute to different wine styles.

The ProducerCloudy Bay is a New Zealand winery founded in 1985, famous for putting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the world map. Located in the Wairau Valley, the winery has a diverse portfolio that now includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pelorus sparkling wines, and is a part of the LVMH group.

The wine –  Vineyard & winemaking: this wine comes from the cool clay soils and rolling north facing slopes of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys region. The aged alluvial gravels and dense clay subsoils balance drainage and water availability to yield the region’s best Pinot Noir grapes. The key vineyards for this variety are Mustang, Delta and Barracks.

The fruits are sorted using an optical sorter before being gravity fed into open topped tanks. The skins were gently plunged with an average of 21 days of skin contact, followed by malolactic fermentation. Maturation in French oak for 11 months, of which 30% were new.

Technical data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 13.5%.

Producer’s Tasting Notes: Open and expressive on the nose, with notes of wild hedgerow fruits, crushed rose petals and sun-warmed red cherry. The palate is finely tuned, with silky tannins and a pure dart of acidity framing and balancing out a core of summer berries, soft spices and a touch of biscuity vanilla. Long on the finish, this wine evokes warm summer evenings, strawberries nestled under shaded leaves and the lingering scent of barbecue smoke.

Wine #2 Argentina – Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, Valle de Uco, 2022,  Mendoza, Argentina

Jairo Sanchez and Jorge Requena provided an excellent overview of the Uco Valley region for Tasting No 254  – Valle del Uco, which you can find below.

Valle de Uco is located 88 km to the south of the City of Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes, the Uco Valley spans the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The wines from there are often labelled with one of these three place names.

Whereas in 2005 the valley had 16,800ha under vine, today it contains 28,600ha, representing 19% of all the vineyards in Mendoza. Almost one in five bottles produced in Mendoza, comes from the valley.

Because the region is so large, in recent years producers have been carrying out detailed analysis to identify smaller Geographic Indications (GIs). Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes and San Pablo are some of the most famous, together with Gualtallary, and all contain vineyards set at altitudes of between 900m and 1,500m. Irrigation water comes from the glaciers above, mainly channelled by the Tunuyán and Las Tunas rivers.

The climate is continental: dry with plenty of sun, low rainfall, cold winters and warm summers with a large thermal range. The point of difference is the altitude, which defines the temperature (on average, it drops 1°C every 150m higher up you go) and the cool climate has lured many producers away from warmer areas further down. All these different factors result in expressive, tense reds and vibrant whites.

The proximity and exposure to the Andes make for alluvial, rocky soils with widely varying mixtures of sand, limestone and clay in unique combinations that produce memorable wines. Within the 50km (30 miles) Valle de Uco region there are smaller wine regions with slightly different wine styles: Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos.

Tupungato is well-known among collectors because of an unofficial growing area called Gualtallary with calcareous soils. You’ll find fresher styles of Malbec, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc because vineyards are as high as 5,250 feet (1600 meters).

The Gualtellary subregion of Tupungato is becoming one of the most famous subregions of Argentina. Some of the most expensive and idolized wines come from Gualtellary, which is quite remarkable considering that there were barely any vines here 30 years ago.  It produces some of the best white wines in Argentina. Red wines, from Pinot Noir to Cabernet Sauvignon are also making waves and  Gualtellary is now equally as well known for its incredibly fresh and vibrant red wines. The subregion altitude varies from 1080 to 1600 m.a.s.l. However, it isn’t  just the cooler temperature that makes Gualtellary distinctive – but also the soils. Pockets of calcareous deposits which are considered the holy grail of wine terroir, have been discovered in Gualtellary [ Barnes, 2022]. 

The Producer: Domaine Nico was founded by Dr. Laura Catena (of the Catena wine producing family) to produce high-altitude Pinot Noir wines, named after her daughter Nicola. The winery is known for its single-parcel vineyards (Grand Père and Grand Mère in Villa Bastías, Histoire d’A and La Savante in Gualtallary, and Le Paradis in Gualtallary Alto)  all within the Tupungato region of the Mendoza province in Argentina.

The WineVineyard & winemaking: The vineyard soils are described as follows: depths of 0-40 cm: loose, sandy, loamy soil; between depths of 40-60 cm: reddish-hued compact calcium carbonate. Between depths of 60-110 cm: 90% boulder debris 5 cm in thickness, with dispersed calcium carbonate. Vineyard located in Gualtallary, Tupungato, elevation of 1450 m.s.n.m. (4757 feet). Fermentation is in roll-fermentor and 24 hL stainless steel tanks with 50% whole cluster. Fermented at an average temperature of 22ºC  for 12 days. Aged 12 months in French oak (100% François Frères), 15% new barrels, 35% second-use and 50% third-use barrels.

Technical Data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 12.5%

Producer Tasting Notes: Red-mineral fruit, with slight reduction and a touch of citrus. Orange peel. Earthy character. High Acidity and low alcohol content. Vertical wine. Layered tannins.

Wine #3 – Ankida Ridge, Pinot Noir, Virginia, 2022, USA

Pinot Noir production in Virginia is a challenging niche, limited by the state’s warm and humid climate, which requires careful site selection and diligent vineyard management. Producers often choose high-elevation sites in the Blue Ridge or Shenandoah Valley and sometimes harvest early to make sparkling wine. Despite the difficulties, Virginia winemakers like Ankida Ridge and 12 Ridges are creating high-quality, nuanced Pinot Noirs that are gaining recognition for their acidity and structure.

The producerAnkida Ridge is a high-elevation, family-owned micro-boutique vineyard located on the Blue Ridge Mountains in Amherst County, Virginia.  Known for its stunning mountain views and unique cool-climate microclimate that produces distinctive, high-quality wines, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is also known for its environmentally sensitive viticulture practices, such as using sheep for vineyard management.

The WineVineyard & winemaking: the wine maker describes the soil of the vineyard, located in a steep slope on Chestnut Ridge, at a high elevation (around 1,800 feet), as weathered igneous rock of charnockite granite containing a complexity of quartz, pyroxene, feldspar converting to clay and other minerals. This wine is aged for 11 months in French oak barrels. (30% new French oak, with the remaining in neutral French oak).

Technical Data:

–  100% Pinot Noir

–  Alcohol: 13.8.

Producer Tasting Notes: Balanced acids, fruits and tannins, elegant, luxurious mouthfeel, lightly spiced, dark fruit, tea. Wild blackberries, dark cherries, vanilla, forest floor.

Wine #4. Concha y Toro, Amelia, Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari,  2022, Chile

Pinot Noir in Chile’s Limarí Valley benefits from a unique climate and soil combination: coastal breezes, morning fog, and a semi-desert climate. The cooling breeze of the Pacific Ocean doesn’t directly affect the dry and hot weather of the Limari wine region, but it influences the vineyards through the Camanchaca, a cooling fog that, every morning, enters the valley from the west and retreats as the sun. The soil is very rich in minerals, consisting mainly of clay, silt and chalk. Vine rows are mainly watered with a drip irrigation system.

The producer: Viña Concha y Toro, founded in 1883,  is Latin America’s leading producer and occupies an outstanding position among the world’s most important wine companies, currently exporting to 140 countries worldwide. Uniquely, it owns more than 12,000 hectares of prime vineyards in Chile, Argentina and the United States.

The wineVineyard & winemaking: The wine is produced from fruits from the Quebrada Seca vineyard (Block 5 and Block 15) which is situated on the northern bank of the Limarí River at an altitude of 190m above sea level, just 22 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The soils are clay and rich in calcium carbonate; the temperatures are cool and the mornings cloudy, so the fruit ripens slowly, producing fresher wines. Block 5 is associated with the Santa Cristina soil series. They are of colluvial origin with angular stones and a high percentage of rusted iron-rich red clay and calcium carbonate in the subsoil. Block 15 is associated with the Quebrada Seca soil series. These are of colluvial origin, without angular stones and have a high percentage of rusted iron-rich clay and calcium carbonate. It has a semi-arid coastal climate. The proximity to the ocean and the cool sea breezes that blow directly towards the valley cool off and moderate the temperatures at the vineyard and this, together with the morning fog, results in slow, prolonged fruit ripening, making for fresher wines.

The clusters are hand-harvested and selected. The grapes are carried to stainless steel tanks and 50% go into the tank as whole clusters, while the rest are carefully destemmed so as not to crush or break the berries. The grapes are gravity-fed into the tanks, avoiding the use of pumps. The temperature is reduced to 7°C-8°C and the grapes undergo a cold soak for 7 days with daily punch-downs in order to achieve an even temperature and delicate extraction. As the batches are fermenting, the wine is racked off its skins and into a selection of barrels, where the malolactic fermentation takes place naturally. The wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (10% new and 90% second use).

Technical Data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 14.5%

Producer Tasting Notes: Intense ruby red colour. This wine is complex with multiple layers led by red cherries and a hint of black tea leaves. It combines the structure of red clay very well with the minerality of the soil. It’s long and refreshing on the palate, with a very persistent finish.

 

  1. CV Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 17 participants rating them in order of preference. Two wines were considered either very good or excellent by the majority of the participants, while the other two were rated from mediocre to very good by the majority. The overall conclusion is that Concha y Toro, ‘Amelia’ Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari, 2022, CH was, by far, the Best Wine, followed by Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022, NZ.

References

https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/pinot-noir-of-marlborough-on-the-rise/#:~:text=Marlborough%2C%20New%20Zealand%20is%20a%20rising%20star,gravels%20in%20a%20slightly%20cooler%2C%20windier%20climate

https://www.lvmh.com/en/our-maisons/wines-spirits/cloudy-bay#:~:text=The%20layout%20features%20a%20comprehensive,to%20alcoholic%20fermentation%20in%20September

https://winetrailsandwanderlust.com/2025/04/30/pinot-noir-virginias-most-underrated-grape/

Barnes, A. The South America Wine Guide, 2022.

Wineries:

https://www.cloudybay.com/en-us/our-wines/pinot-noir/pinot-noir-2022/

https://domainenico.com/en/la-savante/

https://ankidaridge.com/explore-our-wines/

https://conchaytoro.com/vinos/amelia-pinot-noir/

.o0o.


Something to think about (an heresy statement in a Wine Club):

The finest wine is made better by the company it keeps.

.o0o.

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Tasting 282 October 28, 2025 Wines from Greece

Club del Vino

Tasting No  – October 28, 2025 

Wines from Greece  

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA 

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this open tasting is to delve into the wines from Greece and also re-examine the information about their production and characteristics. The Club has celebrated two tastings of these wines – in October 2011 and in February 2013. After more than ten years, there have been advances in the wine production that
deserve to be updated. 

Type of tasting: open 

Presenters: Jaime Estupiñan 

Participants: (to be completed after the meeting) 

These are the wines: 

  • Douloufakis – Vidiano Crete, 2024 
  • GWC Assyrtiko Santorini, 2024 
  • Xinomavro Ramnista, 2019 
  • Ktima Mitravela Agiorgitiko, 2023 

The Menu 

  • Greek salad with feta cheese. 
  • Seafood. 
  • Grilled lamb chops with brown sauce and vegetables. 
  • Dessert, tea or coffee.  
  1. Overview of Wine Production in Greece 

Highlights 

Thousands of years ago, the Greeks introduced viticulture to much of Europe; today, the world is discovering Greek wines all over again. The Greek wine industry is experiencing an exciting and radical transformation, thanks to international investment and a new generation of winemakers well-versed in the world’s best winemaking practices.  

Greece has arguably one of the longest wine histories in the world as wine has always been an integral part of Greek culture since antiquity. Greece might not be the first country to produce wine, but what can be attributed to Ancient Greece is the development of a culture encompassing all aspects of wine: vine growing, wine production, legislation, trading and, of course, the art of consuming wine.  

Wine makers who have studied in Bordeaux, Burgundy, California and Australia are leading the changes in the Greek wine industry, not by attempting to make international grape varieties work in Greece’s difficult terrain, but by focusing on the indigenous grapes that have succeeded there for millennia. The wine produced from these indigenous varietals represent the important wine industry of Greece. Some international varietals are cultivated but they represent a minimal part of the wine production here and are mainly used for blending with the local varietals. 

Despite their huge heritage, the wines of Greece can promote themselves solely by virtue of their present attributes and not past glories. In the last three decades, a wind of change has been blowing through Greek wine production, turning a relatively traditional agricultural sector into a cutting-edge entity in today’s wine world. Greek producers have invested heavily in people, education, know-how and technology, starting a steep learning curve. The level of quality of wines currently coming out of Greece can match any other country, but there are several other features that make the Greek wines stand apart. 

Greece’s vine production area is spread across various regions, with a total of approximately 64,000 hectares dedicated to wine grapes. The country’s wine production has seen fluctuations in volume, with an average annual output of around 2.3 million hectoliters in 2020 and 1.7 million hectoliters in 2021. However, challenging weather conditions have led to a significant decrease in production in 2023. Despite these challenges, the Greek wine market continues to grow, with a projected market value of around US$665.3 million by 2029. The industry is also benefiting from the country’s economic recovery and a vibrant tourism sector, where visitors actively seek local wines. 

Greece produces more white than red wine, with the latter accounting for just a third of total production. An impressive 90% of plantings consist of the country’s rich stock of indigenous grape varieties (Greece has approximately 200 grape varieties). 

The most important indigenous grape varieties include: Assyrtiko, Moschofilero and Vidiano, which produce elegant and aromatic white wines; Mavrodaphne, which is the source of a luscious, fortified dessert wine; and Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro, red grapes that thrive on Greece’s south and northern mainland. Other white grapes of note are Lagorthi; Malagousia,  Savatiano and Roditis, while other indigenous red grapes include Kotsifali; Liatiko; Mandilaria; Limnio; Xinomavro; and Mavrotragano. Naturally, these Greek wines make excellent pairings with Mediterranean cuisine and simple grilled foods. 

Retsina is an ancient style of wine that is influenced by the presence of pine sap or resin. For a long time, Retsina was synonymous with Greek wine, and many still assume that all Greek wine tastes like Retsina, which is not the case. Retsina is just one style of wine within a sea of more familiar wines that Greece produces. 

The U.S. is the world’s second-largest export market for Greek wine, and the caliber of bottles sent this way continues to climb. 

Wine Regions and Denominations 

The very first thing to understand is that Greece is much more diverse in terms of climate than most people realize. The country has everything – from arid Mediterranean islands to wet, mountainous pine forests that receive snowfall in the winter. With such a diverse climate, you can expect Greek wines to be quite varied as well. So, one of the best ways to wrap your head around Greek wine is to split the country up into four overarching wine zones based on their climates. 

Greece has many regions, which can essentially be divided up into four primary climatic zones

♦Northern Greece: Wet climate; Epirus, Macedonia and Thrace. 

White Grapes: Malagousia and Assyrtiko, often blended with Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.  

Red Grapes: Mostly Xinomavro with a little bit of Merlot, Limnio, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Xinomavro is being hailed as “the Barolo of Greece,” where it grows in the regions of Naoussa and Amyndeo. This wine can taste strikingly similar to Nebbiolo (hence the correlation with Barolo), with dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and occasionally subtle tomato notes.  

♦Aegean Islands: Arid climate, Mediterrarean islands of Santorini, Samos, Límnos, etc. 

White GrapesAssyrtiko (Santorini), Muscat Blanc (Samos), AthiriMalvasia (called Monemvasia). Santorini, a volcanic island, is the homeland of Greece’s most famous white wine, Assyrtiko.  
Red Grapes: Limnio (Límnos), Mandilaria (Paros), and Mavrotragano

♦Central Greece: Modulating Mediterranean climate; Central Greece, Thessaly, and Attica. 

White Grapes: A lot of Savatiano and a little bit of Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Athiri, Begleri, and Chardonnay. 

Red Grapes: A lot of Xinomavro and a little bit of AgiorgitikoKrasatoStavrotoLimnionaVradiano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. 

♦Southern Greece: Hot stable Mediterranean climate; Crete, Peloponnese, and Kefalonia.  

White Grapes: Moschofilero, Muscat Blanc, Robola (Kefalonia), Vidiano (Crete), and Roditis

Red Grapes: Agiorgitiko (Peloponnese), Mavrodaphne (Kefalonia; Peloponnese), Kotsifali (Crete), Liatiko (Crete),
Mandilaria (Crete), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon.  

♦Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).  

The origins of Greek PDO and PGI wine designations date back to the late 20th century, when Greece emerged as a serious player in the wine world. The introduction of these designations aimed to reinforce the concepts of authenticity and typicality, with specific geographical boundaries and varietal compositions set. PDO Wines of Greece are produced in historically significant regions and adhere to strict production methods and regulations. These wines must meet quality standards that demonstrate the unique characteristics and traditions of the region. PGI Wines of Greece are made from grapes grown within a broader geographical area and may use a wider range of grape varieties and winemaking techniques. They often showcase regional character, while allowing for more experimentation and diversity in style. Depending on their geographical breadth, PGI zones are divided into three levels: PGI Regional Wines; PGI District Wines; and PGIArea Wines.The regulations governing these designations einsure that Greek wines maintain the identity
and quality reflecting the country’s rich wine
making heritage. 

The Best Wines from Greece – a summary 

Greek wine is ancient, and bottles made from the country’s 300-plus indigenous grapes are food-friendly with serious value for money. Why, then, aren’t more people drinking them? 

Some think the problem is linguistic: the names of Greek wine varieties intimidate many Anglophones. “If you look at the labels, they can be quite confusing, and it’s hard to decipher what you’re looking at,” says John Stanley, founder of Stanley’s Wet Goods in Los Angeles. Some Greek winemakers even label their bottles of Agiorgitiko, a native red grape planted throughout Greece, as “St. George” in English-speaking markets. 

Whites:  

Assyrtiko [ A seer’ tee ko ] is a classy white grape, possibly some of the greatest varieties found in the Mediterranean basin. It originated in Santorini (Assyrtiko-Santorini) but it spread all over Greece, becoming, in terms of quality, one of the most important native varietals. It produces mainly dry white wines, some of which are being aged in oak. However, a number of sweet wines are made, from sun dried grapes. Assyrtiko is one of these rare white grape varieties that can grow on hot and dry climatic conditions, while at the same keeping the high alcohol in perfect balance by its crisp acidity. It is more of a textural variety, emphasizing extract, body and structure, rather than an aromatic grape. The smoky, salty and cellar–worthy white wine borne of Santorini’s moonscape-like volcanic vineyards dates back more than 3,500 years. Grown in sandy, nutrient-poor soils resistant to the Phylloxerapest that decimated vineyards across the world, Santorini was left untouched. This enabled the development of hearty vineyards, some of which are more than 150 years old. In fact, the island boasts some the few self-rooted vines left in Europe. In these more nutrient-rich soils and under less traumatic conditions, Assyrtiko displays a softer, fruitier character that appeals to a broader range of palates. However, it maintains a hallmark acidity and minerality that sets it apart from other international wines.  

The flavor profile of Assyrtiko is dominated by fresh citrus notes, such as lemon, lime, and grapefruit, alongside a characteristic minerality that gives the wine a refreshing, almost salty finish. The acidity in Assyrtiko is vibrant, making it an ideal wine to pair with a variety of seafood dishes, as well as Mediterranean cuisine like grilled vegetables and roasted chicken. Some Assyrtiko wines also show hints of herbs and floral notes, adding further complexity to the wine. 

Vidiano from Crete is one of the most exciting grapes to emerge. This viscous, mineral-driven grape has incredible texture that reminds of a cross between France’s Marsanne and Santorini’s Assyrtiko. We are just scratching the surface on this grape, and there will be a lot to love as we continue to watch winemakers work with it. 

Historically, the Savatiano and Roditis grapes were the workhorses. For decades they made simple white wines that were crowd-pleasing café staples for easy mezza pairings. There has been a lot of focus on leveling up these grapes, and we will continue to see more exciting ones to come over the next few years. 

The aromatic grapes Moschofilero and Malagousia are making some of the most exotic and engaging whites. Moschofilero is perfumed like Muscat but has a dryer finish, while Malagousia reaches towards floral tones but takes a step back to show off more of its stone fruit flavors.   

Reds:  

Reds definitely took a back seat to their white counterparts when Greek wines reemerged on the international wine scene a decade ago. The red grapes’ popularity suffered from difficult-to-pronounce names and a decided rusticity at the time. So much has advanced over the last decade.  

The main native grape in the north is Xinomavro (kseen-o-mav-ro), widely regarded the finest red wine of the country, which is often referred to as Greece’s Nebbiolo. This grape is known for its dark color (mavro means black) and its high acidity and tannic texture (xino means acid). There are so many styles emerging from the classic regions of Amyndeon and Naoussa in Macedon). This is mountainous country with a mix of high-altitude vineyards and great terroirs from alluvial runoff. There are some truly exciting wines coming from these regions.  

In the south there is Agiorgitiko (—eye-your-gitty-ko), the most planted native red grape in Greece, that can be found throughout Greece, but particularly in the Nemea region of the Peloponnese where it forms a PDO zone. Some Greek winemakers label their bottles of Agiorgitiko, as “St. George” for English-speaking markets. A low- to medium-yielding variety producing medium- to high-acid wines depending on elevations and soil profiles. Deep red fruits (plum and cherry) and spice. Considered to be one of Greece’s best red varietals and biggest producing red variety. This grape has a juicer profile often described as Sangiovese-like, closer to Nero d’Avola from Sicily, with darker berry fruit but sweeter warmer tannic structure. It is easy to drink on its own.   

A host of other reds are beginning to find their footing too,  including  Mavrodaphne, Mavrotragano, Limniona, and Liatiko, sometimes seen on their own and sometime in blends. 

 

  1. Information on the Wines

♦Wine #1.  Douloufakis ‘Dafnios’ Vidiano PGI Crete, 2024 

The ProducerDomaine Douloufakis Winery: In 1930, Dimitris Douloufakis became one of the first winemakers in Crete to produce wines professionally in his traditional, old winery. Their privately owned vineyards of 200 acres are located in the heart of the wine-growing zone of Crete, in Dafnes, Heraklion and at an altitude of 350 – 450 meters. The limestone soils of the area and the microclimate that prevails are considered ideal for the production of good quality grapes. This region has a long history in viticulture and also has been established as a Protected Designation of Origin for Liatiko wines .The privately owned vineyards are certified 100% organic and span over 70 acres of rolling hills in the Dafnes sub-region, a village close to Iraklio in Crete.  

 – The wine:

  • Vintage: 2024           Grape: 100% Vidiano 
  • Region/appellation: PGI Crete 
  • Viticulture: certified organic farming 
  • Winemaking entirely in steel.  
  • 13.5% APV 

Winemaker notes: The 2024 “Dafnios” has a pronounced bouquet of ripe peach, apricots, honeydew melon, papaya, and gardenia. The palate is broad and creamy, balanced by crisp acidity and peachy tropical fruit flavors. It’s reminiscent of a Northern Rhône Viognier, but with a nervier backbone.  

Critic’s review: “Douloufakis was the estate that resuscitated Vidiano from a scant 10 hectares at the turn of the 20th century. The estate now farms a total of 25ha organically with a strong focus on Vidiano grown on Crete’s abundant limestone. Although famous for the single-vineyard, barrel-fermented Aspros Lagos, this steel-fermented wine is a brilliant introduction to the variety. Fleshy and bold with some of the richness and decadence of Viognier, with attractive flavors of fresh peach, melon and apricot, but the palate is a completely different game: alert, spicy, structured by notable acidity and with real drive and concentration through to the finish.”(Pam Roberto, 2025). 

♦Wine #2. Greek Wine Cellars – GWC, ‘Flowers’ Assyrtiko, Santorini, 2024. 

– The ProducerGreek Wine Cellars, formerly known as Kourtaki Wines, is a large, historic wine producing and blottling company in Greece. The company was founded in 1895 by Vassili Kourtakis, one of the first Greeks to gain a diploma in oenology. In 1905, the company established in Markopoulo, Mesogia, an old wine-growing region where it continues to operate today. The company has continuously expanded its operations to include several regional wineries across Greece, including Ritsona, the Peloponnese, and Crete. It encompasses several brands split in three divisions: Kourtaki, Calliga and Oenoforos. Their wines are produced under PDO and PGI appellations. The winery’s annual production is approximately 30 milion bottles, half of which is exported. The The Ritsona winery in central Greece has always been at the forefront in implementing new methods and investing in modern technology with the aim of constantly improving the wines it produces.  

The wine: made from 100% indigenous Assyrtiko grapes, once fruiting begins, the grapes grow sheltered in baskets called kouloura, creating a natural work of art. Most wines are unoaked, though some very good examples of oaked Assyrtiko are made and boast the same great ageing potential. 

  • Vintage: 2024 
  • Grape: 100% Assyrtiko 
  • Region/appellation: Santorini PDO 
  • Aging: 5-7 months          13% ABV 

Winemaker’s notes: Golden yellow color, with hints of citrus & apple on the nose. Crisp clean fruit on the palate with the development of a pleasant acidity and minerality, the latter derived from the unique character of the geology of this dramatic volcanic island. Great with seafood. 

♦Wine #3.  Kir-Yianni Estate, ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro, 2019 

– The ProducerKir-Yianni Estate was established in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry. Kir-Yianni, “Mr. John” in Greek, is best known for producing premium Xinomavro from the slopes of Mt. Vermio in Northwestern Greece. Today, Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, actively manages the winery and their two 30+ year-old estate vineyards located in Naoussa and Amyndeon. The Kir-Yianni philosophy is a desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the consumer.  

– The Wine: The Ramnista vineyard has a southeast exposure at an altitude of 120-280m. The grapes for Ramnista are carefully handpicked. They use grapes mostly from the vineyard blocks of lower pH and with lighter soil type in order to maximize the aromatic intensity and complexity. 

  • Vintage: 2019 
  • Grape: 100% Xinomavro 
  • Region/appellation: Naoussa PDO  
  • Vinification: grapes are handpicked and carefully sorted before being crushed. Fermentation is done in 5,000ltr French Oak wooden vats at controlled temperatures with regular Pigage. The final blend is made five months after harvest. 
  • Ageing: 80% of the wines spends 16 months in 225L barrels, 20% in 500L barrels. Both French and American oak casks are used, plus further ageing in bottle for another 12 months. 
  • 14% ABV 
  • Dintinctions/Awards: Gold (Mundus Vini, 2023); Gold (Thessaloniki Intnl. Wine Competition, 2023); Bronze (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2023); Bronze (Intnl. Wine Competition, 2023). 

Winemaker’s notes: Garnet red, typical color to Xinomavro. Vibrant red and black fruit on the nose, with aromas of strawberry, cherry, and plums. A crisp and fruit-forward mouth with delicate notes of sweet spices and tobacco. Full body with good acidity and smooth tannins adding structure and leading to a pleasant finish. This exceptional vintage showcases the Xinomavro grape’s complexity, offering notes of ripe red berries, dried plums, and subtle hints of olive and tobacco. On the palate, you’ll enjoy its vibrant acidity and well-integrated tannins, leading to a smooth, lengthy finish. Perfect for pairing with grilled meats or savory Mediterranean dishes. This wine can taste strikingly similar to Nebbiolo (hence the correlation with Barolo), with dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and occasionally subtle tomato notes.  

Tasting notes: “An aromatic complex wine which combines powerfully fresh red fruits and notes of rose, make up the new vintage of 2019 Ramnista. On the palate, gentle tannins, and round mouth feel, with distinctive sense of the oak barrel. The unexpected full body and robust acidity showcase a great wine with aging potential up to 15 years.” 

♦Wine #4. Mitravelas Estate, ‘Ktima’ Agiorgitiko, Nemea, 2023 

– The Producer:   Mitravelas Estate was founded in the city center in 1913 and later in the 1950’s the three Mitravelas brothers Andreas, Spyros and Nikos took over the winery. By the end of the 20th century, the family owns about 10 hectares of vineyards in various areas of Nemea zone. The winery is located in Achaldia, one of the best sites in Nevea. Some pieces of the land are formed of extremely old vines which are dry farmed non irrigated. This results in very small annual production and on the other hand excellent concentrations and ripeness of the grapes. Elements necessary for the highest quality in the wines produced. 

– The Wine: Fir this wine, the ensemble of vineyards are located mainly on the hillside around the area of ​​Nemea, in the winery’s privately owned area of ​​10 hectares, yet also in cooperating viticulturists’ land with long-term contracts, where the yields are minimized, in order to maximize the quality. Different soils and altitudes depending the wine to be produced in each vineyard. Ktima Agiorgitiko wine have received awards for quality since its 2005 vintage.  

  • Vintage: 2023 
  • Grape: 100% Agiorgitiko 
  • Region/appellation: Nemea PDO 
  • Vinification: grapes are destemmed and inoculated with autochthone yeasts selected from the Nemea area; followed by a long stay with the grapes, about 15 days, at relatively low temperatures in order to preserve the fruity aromatic characteristics and to extract only the fine tannins. Alcoholic fermentation is followed by malolactic fermentation.  
  • Ageing: 6-8 months ageing in French oak barrels, 2nd and 3rd use.  It is expected that for the next at least 8 years it will become more complex and velvetiy. 
  • 14.5% ABV 

Winemaker’s notes: The 2023 Ktima Agiorgitiko from Mitravelas Estate is a deep red-violet color wine with aromas of blackcurrant, pomegranate, and plum. It features flavors of sour cherry, dark fruits, and hints of leather, pepper, and vanilla. The wine is known for its velvety tannins and rich acidity, making it suitable for pairing with red meats, game, and spicy dishes. It has received positive reviews for its complexity and aging potential, with a tasting note describing it as a firm and medium-fruity red with a dusty finish.  

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

 

References: 

Greek wine – Wikipedia 

The Wine Regions of Greece (Maps) | Wine Folly 

The Ancient Greek Varieties Making Thoroughly Modern Wines | Wine Enthusiast Magazine 

The history of Greek wine Archives – Wines of Greece 

PDO, PGI, IDO – What is this? | The Greek Wine Experience 

The Best Greek Wines to Drink Right Now | Wine Enthusiast Magazine 

A Guide to the Most Popular Greek Wine Varieties 

8 of the Very Best Greek Wines: What They Are and Where to Find Them 

Top 13 Greek Red wines in United States right now 

Douloufakis Winery, Crete (Greece) Vidiano “Dafnios” 2024 ($18) – Wine Review Online 

Greek Wine Cellars (Markopoulo) – Wines of Greece 

Naoussa Cuvée Villages — Ktima Kir-Yianni 

Ramnista — Ktima Kir-Yianni 

2023 Ktima Mitravelas – Agiorgitiko Nemea Estate Red (750ml). MacArthur Beverages 

.o0o.

Laughing Matter:

It is a full bodied wine with hints of acrimony, partisanship, and moral outrage.

.o0o.

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Good Read: K. Lynch “Adventures on the Wine Route”

Kermit Lynch: Adventures on the Wine Route – A Wine Buyer’s Tour de France, 2019 – The 25th Aniversary Edition

Amazon: Kindle $12.99, Paperback $18.46, Hardcover $55.21
This book has been recommended by Juan Colaiacovo, one of the founders and President of the Club del Vino  for many years. He wrote: 

 “”Espero que estén bien para recibir el otoño. Buena época para degustar vinos.
Les envío foto de este libro que recomiendo. Ameno y muy interesante. El autor relata su experiencia como importador de vinos de  Francia. 1975-2000. El libro se editó ese último año. Ahora salió una actualización con un capítulo adicional.
Recomiendo ponerlo en el blog y avisarle a los socios.
Saludos
Juan””

The newly designed twenty-fifth anniversary edition of the classic volume, brought up-to-date.

“Wine is, above all, about pleasure. Those who make it ponderous make it dull . . . If you keep an open mind and take each wine on its own terms, there is a world of magic to discover.” So wrote the renowned wine expert Kermit Lynch in the introduction to Adventures on the Wine Route, his ultimate tour of France, especially its wine cellars. The “magic” of wine is Lynch’s subject as he takes the reader on a singular journey through the Loire, Bordeaux, the Languedoc, Provence, northern and southern Rhone, and Burgundy. In Adventures on the Wine Route, the wine lover will find wisdom without a trace of pretension and hype. As Victor Hazan wrote, “In Kermit Lynch’s small, true, delightful book there is more understanding about what wine really is than in everything else I have read.”

Praise for Lynch and for Adventures on the Wine Route has not ceased since the book’s initial publication a quarter century ago. In 2007, the New York Times called it “one of the finest American books on wine.” And in June 2012, The Wall Street Journal proclaimed it “the best book on the wine business.” Full of vivid portraits of French vintners, memorable evocations of the French countryside, and, of course, vibrant descriptions of French wines, this new edition of Adventures on the Wine Route updates a modern classic for our times.

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Tasting No 281 – Discovering Tannat From the Americas – September 30, 2025

Tasting No 281 – September 30, 2025, 12:30 pm

Discovering Tannat From the Americas

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore the variety of Tannat wines being produced across regions in the Americas. In addition to three wines of the Tannat varietal, the tasting included one white wine.

Type of tasting: Blind

Presenters: Jose Brakarz and Jorge Requena

Participants: (to be completed after the tasting)

These are the wines:

  1. Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020.
  2. Bodega Garzón, Single Vineyard Tannat, Maldonado, Uruguay, 2022.
  3. Aranjuez, Tannat Origen, Bolivia, 2023.
  4. Allegretto, ‘Tannat’, Paso Robles, California, 2019. 
  1. Menu

  • Green salad w/hearts of palm
  • Ravioli di Vitello on red sauce
  • Filet Mignon with roated potatoes
  • Desert
  1. The History of Tannat Wines

Tannat’s origins in France

  • Origins: The Tannat grape originated in southwestern France and later found its second home and global identity in Uruguay. Once a minor, intensely tannic grape, modern winemaking techniques and its successful adaptation in the New World have transformed it into a more pleasant wine. Some sources say that the name Tannat derives from a word in the Béarn dialect meaning “tanned,” referring to its deep color, but more accepted is the relation to the grape’s high tannin content.
  • Basque heritage: The Tannat grape is believed to have originated in the Basque region, specifically in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains in southwestern France.
  • France’s Madiran region: Tannat’s association with French winemaking dates to at least the 17th and 18th centuries in the Madiran region. Historically, Tannat was known for producing powerful, high-tannin wines. Appellation laws in Madiran required it to be blended with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc to soften its intense and rustic character.
  • Smoothing the tannins – development of micro-oxygenation: The quest to tame Tannat’s tannins led to a significant winemaking innovation. In 1991, Madiran winemaker Patrick Ducournau pioneered micro-oxygenation, a process that exposes fermenting wine to tiny, controlled amounts of oxygen to soften tannins. This technique is now used globally. 

The move to Uruguay.

  • In 1870, a Basque immigrant named Pascual Harriague brought Tannat cuttings to Uruguay. The grape adapted perfectly to Uruguay’s Atlantic-influenced, humid climate, which is similar to its home in the Pyrenees. It emerged as a national grape, known as “Harriague” in Uruguay.

Tannat around the New World

  • From Uruguay, Tannat was introduced to other regions in South America and the United States, including California, Texas and Virginia. And even Bolivia, were it adapted very well to the mountainous geography of the Tarija region.

A perceived health benefit:

  • The grape’s thick skin and numerous seeds give Tannat wines very high levels of antioxidants, particularly procyanidins. This has contributed to its recent popularity, with some researchers correlating the consumption of Tannat-rich Madiran wines with longer lifespans in the region.

 

  • Production Regions in the Americas

  

  1. Tannat in Uruguay
  • The grape was Introduced in the country around 1870 by a basque immigrant.
  • Survived Phylloxera: While Phylloxera decimated French vineyards in the mid-19th century, Tannat plantings in Uruguay survived. The grape continued to gain popularity, eventually becoming the country’s “national grape” and its most-planted variety.
  • Uruguayan style: In contrast to the traditional robust French style, Uruguayan Tannats often have smoother, riper tannins and more dominant black fruit flavors. They are also lighter in body and low in tannins. This is due to clonal selection and winemaking techniques that emphasize approachability. 
  • It is planted in low altitudes, mainly in the departments of Canelones and Montevideo, which are coastal areas.
  • Currently: Plantings of Tannat (also known in Uruguay as Harriague) have been increasing in Uruguay each year as that country’s wine industry develops. Currently Tannat is the most common variety planted in the country (36% of all types).The Tannat wines produced here are characterized by more elegant and softer tannins and blackberry fruit notes. Vineyards in Uruguay have begun to distinguish between the “old vines” that are descendants from the original cuttings brought over from Europe and the new clones being produced today. The newer vines tend to produce more powerful wines with higher alcohol levels but less acidity and complex fruit characteristics

  1. Tannat in Bolivia – Tarija
  • Location: Wine production in Bolivia is located between 21- and 23-degrees south latitude and between 1,600 and 2,000 meters above sea level. Bolivian farmers cultivate crops brought to the country hundreds of years ago by Jesuit missionaries. There are some 5,000 hectares of grape plantations in the region.
  • Altitude: The altitude means a smaller ozone layer, which filters out the rays, so the incidence of ultraviolet rays is greater at higher altitudes, and this generates a response from the plant. As a result of the effects of these rays the plant produces a thickening of the grape skin and a higher content of resveratrol, a phenol that protects the cardiovascular system.
  • Cultivation: Grape vines need a temperate climate, with seasons, to produce fruit worthy of wine production. Specific to Bolivia, high altitude leads to lower temperature, which, in the winter months, creates low enough pressure to pull even more cold air from the plains of Patagonia. This combination creates a winter cold enough to force the vines to go dormant, an absolute necessity to growing fine wine grapes.
  • This high altitude has other advantages. For one, the intensity of the sunlight, much like Mendoza in Argentina, allows grapes to ripen more quickly during the day than they would at the same temperature at a lower altitude. The temperature drops so quickly, and so low, at night, that the grapes essentially shut down. This combination preserves acidity, without sacrificing the complexity that comes from good ripeness.
  • Characteristic of High altitude wines: The high-altitude variety differs greatly from other regions as it generates an interesting concentration of aromas and a distinctive color. The maturation of the tannins is very gentle that ends up with grapes that have very ripe and very soft seed tannins.

  1. Tannat in the USA – Paso Robles, CA
  • The Region: The Paso Robles Willow Creek District, for well over 100 years, has been the home of vineyards, Mennonite families, and walnut orchards. It was an area early identified with agricultural potential that was confirmed by years of cultivation and science. Many popular and burgeoning brands from the Paso Robles AVA have made their home in the Willow Creek District and fruit from the AVA is in high demand. It is an area of Paso Robles with immense beauty and color.
  • Wines form the Area: Paso Robles wines are known for being bold, opulent, and high-alcohol red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhône-style blends, along with Zinfandel. The region’s diverse soils, microclimates, and creative winemaking approach allow for this variety, producing wines with rich complexity, ripe fruit, and a firm backbone of acidity that can be enjoyed young or aged. 
  • Cultivation: The Allegretto Wines (current tasting) utilizes sustainable practices in both vineyards by emphasizing biodynamic farming practices that provide optimal times for sowing, transplanting, cultivation, and harvesting using biodynamic preparations. These practices promote the forces that work dynamically within the soil, compost, and plants to ultimately provide healthier vines, earth, and health.
  • Allegretto Wines encompasses two vineyards within two different sub-appellations of Paso Robles. The estate and single vineyard wines are sourced from the vineyards that surround the Allegretto Resort in the Estrella District, as well as the westside vineyard in the Willow Creek District.

 

  1. Information about the Wines

Wine #1. Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ, 2024

The Producer: Cloudy Bay Vineyards, established in 1985, is today a partnership with champagne house Veuve Clicquot.  The winery and vineyards are situated in the Wairau Valley in Marlborough at the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island. This unique and cool wine region enjoys a maritime climate with the longest hours of sunshine of any place in New Zealand.

Terroir: Free-draining gravelly soils and the valley’s maritime climate come together in harmony to create the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  The resulting wines are pure, vibrant and full of concentrated stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical characters. This is the Cloudy Bay benchmark style. Quality and Reputation:  Cloudy Bay became an iconic brand and a standard-bearer for the Marlborough region, setting a new benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc globally. 

The Wine: Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc pioneered a fresh, exuberant, and easily recognizable style with notes of gooseberries, kiwi fruit, and tropical fruits, a vibrant acidity, and pungent aromas. This unique character helped elevate New Zealand’s reputation in the wine world, with Cloudy Bay’s 1996 Sauvignon Blanc being the first New Zealand wine to make the Wine Spectator Top Wines of the World list.

  • Grape: 100% Sauvingnon Blanc
  • Viticulture: Grapes are sourced from prime locations in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley, known for free-draining gravelly soils and a favorable maritime climate. Hand-Harvesting: Grapes are hand-picked to select only the best fruit. Harvesting occurs during the cooler nights and early mornings to retain the rapes’ freshness.
  • Vinification: Hand-harvesting grapes from Marlborough’s Wairau Valley at optimal ripeness; De-stemming and crushing are followed by a gentle pressing to extract juice; cold settling the juice for 48-72 hours and fermenting it in stainless steel tanks at controlled, cool temperatures to preserve fresh, fruity, and floral aromas. A small portion may be fermented in old oak barrels for complexity, and the wine is then aged on its lees to enhance aroma and structure, with careful blending from separate vineyard parcels to ensure quality and consistency. 
  • Aging: The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks, sometimes resting on fine lees to build texture and flavor complexity. 
  • Alcohol: 13.5% ABV
  • Blending: Each parcel of fruit is fermented separately before being carefully blended by the winemakers to achieve the signature Cloudy Bay quality and consistency.
  • Terroir: Free-draining gravelly soils and the valley’s maritime climate come together in harmony to create the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The resulting wines are pure, vibrant and full of concentrated stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical characters. This is the Cloudy Bay benchmark style. Quality and Reputation:  Cloudy Bay became an iconic brand and a standard-bearer for the Marlborough region, setting a new benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc globally. 

Terroir: Free-draining gravelly soils and the valley’s maritime climate come together in harmony to create the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  The resulting wines are pure, vibrant and full of concentrated stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical characters. This is the Cloudy Bay benchmark style. Quality and Reputation:  Cloudy Bay became an iconic brand and a standard-bearer for the Marlborough region, setting a new benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc globally.

Tasting Notes: Quite restrained on the nose and less tropical than other vintages. It unfurls in the glass to reveal profound and attractive notes of citrus, lime leaf, apricot and orange blossom.  The palate shows intense flavor, with subtle-but-juicy passionfruit notes melding with those of citrus, white stone fruit, makrut lime, hibiscus and grapefruit. Throughout, there is a freshening saline edge and a fresh-squeezed lemon acidity that carries a long, concentrated and complex finish.

Wine #2. Bodega Garzon, Single Vineyard Tannat, Maldonado UR, 2022

The Producer: located close to Uruguay’s ‘Riviera’ at Punta del Este and the fashionable fishing village of José Ignacio, the Bodega Garzón winery may only have opened in 2016, but it is already spearheading the Uruguayan wine scene. Blessed with some of the world’s oldest granitic soils (dating back 2,500 million years), the estate covers 2,200 hectares with a vibrant biodiversity that includes untouched native forests and palm trees. Striking examples of the ancient rocks protrude into the underground cellars, forming part of the very architecture, and the entire estate holds a Silver LEED certification (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design), built with sustainability in mind.

The Wine: 

  • Grape: 100% Tannat
  • Vinification: Harvesting: Grapes are handpicked at optimal ripeness; the grapes are destemmed, lightly crushed, and may undergo a pre-fermentation cold soak to extract fruit character and maintain freshness. Fermentation takes place in large concrete tanks, using natural yeasts. The wine is kept on skins for a limited time (around 7 days) to avoid over-extraction of tannins. Techniques like pumping over or punching down the cap are often avoided.
  • Aging: 12 – 18 months in untoasted French oak barrels.
  • Alcohol:14.5% ABV

Terroir: The cool Atlantic breezes and coastal influence help maintain acidity and freshness in the grape.

Tasting Notes: Deep purple in color, this powerful Tannat presents an elegant nose, with aromas reminiscent of red fruits such as cherries and strawberries, black plums, tobacco, and dark chocolate on a spicy background. On the palate, it is juicy and fresh, with a rich body and a very pleasant aftertaste, and a long, vibrant finish.

Wine #3. Aranjuez, Tannat Origen, Bolivia, 2023.

The Producer: Vinos Aranjuez was founded on March 31, 1976, when Milton Castellanos Espinoza, an engineer, and his wife, Ana Hebe Cortez Vaca Guzmán, decided to make the winery’s first bottle a reality. Since then, it has remained a family business to this day. Located in southern Bolivia and nestled among the mountains, the central valley of Tarija is home to the largest number of grapes, wines, and singanis in the country. All the winemaking takes place above 1,600 meters (about 5249.34 ft) above sea level. This valley boasts a distinct temperature range that allows for an optimal viticultural cycle.

The Wine:

  • Grape: 100% Tannat
  • Viticulture: Tannat Origen, made exclusively with grapes from lot 40, 6-hectare vineyard at an altitude of 1,950 meters (about 1.21 mi), where Tannat was first planted in Bolivia in 1999.
  • Vinification: Hand-picked bunches from the first Tannat vineyard planted in Bolivia. Temperature-controlled fermentation. Manual bunch selection at the winery.
  • Aging: Aged for 12 months in new French oak barrels, followed by the same amount of time in the bottle.
  • Alcohol: 14.2% ABV.

Tasting notes: Intense garnet red color with marked violet tones.On the nose, it presents aromas of blackberries, plums, and ripe blueberries, accompanied by subtle notes of vanilla and cocoa, contributed by its oak aging. On the palate, its sweet and delicate tannins stand out, balanced by very good acidity, rounding out the body of this noble and elegant wine.

“This wine has been produced since 2015 and comes from lot 40, the first of the Tannats planted in Bolivia around 1999. From clayey and silty soils, this wine has been aged for a year in lightly toasted barrels and offers a wealth of red and black fruit, all very ripe. The tannins of the Tannat, always robust, here behave like apartment kittens, docile and gentle. A perfect wine to cellar or to open with meat-filled empanadas”. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados)

 Wine #4, Allegretto, ‘Tannat’, Paso Robles, CA, 2019.

The Producer: Allegretto Vineyard Resort is located in the Estrella AVA, located on the east side of Paso Robles, California. The Estrella District is known for warm summer days are cooled by modest maritime sea breezes through the Templeton Gap effect, as well asdownslope winds from the eastern ranges, which are reflected by early morning fog in the summer. The soils in the Estrella are predominantly alluvial, ranging from fine sandy loams to the more substantial clay loam. The terroir is quite perfect for the cultivation of premium winegrapes, warm days that do lead to cool nights, moderate soil rooting depths control vigor in vines, and tempered water stress produce complex fruit flavors. Estate-grown and single vineyard wines are sourced from the vineyards that surround the estate.

The Wine

  • Grape: 100% Tannat
  • Region/appellation: Paso Robles Central
  • Viticulture: grapes are from Allegretto Vineyard, emphasizing biodynamic farming, to promote healthy soil and plants for healthier wines.
  • Vinification: After harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and lightly crushed. The crushed grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks.
  • Aging: The wine is then aged for approximately 40 months (about 3 and a half years) in American oak barrels, with a significant portion, about 35%, being new oak to enhance its structure and flavors.
  • Alcohol: 14.3% ABV.

Tasting notes: deep dark hue, deep black cherry color. On the nose, the 2019 Tannat presents an intense nose with aromas of black currant, blueberry and exotic spices like anise and cardamom. On the Palate, layers of blackcurrant, plum, and spice, interwoven with earthy and peppery flavors. It offers a powerful and structured profile with firm tannins, a balance of dark.   

“The bottle age is helping this dense wine find a solid expression, as the nose offers subtly integrated aromas of stewed strawberry, baking spice and sumac. The palate is framed by tannins that remain firm enough to wrap around the black currant, pepper and turned-earth flavors”.

Members Evaluation of the Wines – to be published after the tasting

References :

Tannat – Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uruguayan_wine#Grape_varieties

https://www.cloudybay.com/en-us/our-wines/sauvignon-blanc/sauvignon-blanc-2024/

https://www.vinosaranjuez.com/vinos/vino-tannat-origen/

https://bodegagarzon.com/en/wine/tannat-2023-2/

(https://pasowine.com/member/allegretto-wines/?refer=winery)

(Wine Enthusiast) https://www.wineenthusiast.com/buying-guide/allegretto-2019-ayres-family-reserve-tannat-paso-robles/?srsltid=AfmBOopX3V54f3IcGyPSDnzaJxbxEiQva6_5Kwa31wcQ9t2HGHTmv175

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Laughing matter

A question of abstinence


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Club del Vino Historic document of 2003

Club del Vino Historic document of 2003

 

Our friend and long time member of the Club del Vino  Pedro Turina sent us an interesting document of the Club del Vino. Pedro’s message: Gracias por los recuerdos del pasado, te agrego otro documento para el archivo.

The eMail from allopez@webtv.net lists the Club del Vino first Board of Directors and proposes two names for the Technical Committee


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To smile and to remember

Luis Fernando Verissimo 1936-2025                   Onde fica Beleléu?

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Tasting No. 280 Aromas in White Wines – August 26, 2025

Tasting No 280 – August 26, 2025

Aromas in White Wines 

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this blind tasting was to explore and discuss the characteristics of key aromas in white wines, without any attempt to identify the wines being tasted. White wines of different grape varieties and/or winemaking techniques were selected for this tasting.

 

Type of tasting: Blind

 

Presenters: Sergio Ardila and Cesar Falconi

 

Participants:  S. Ardila; J. Brakarz;J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; A  and C. Perazza; J. Requena; C. Santelices; L. Uechi; and G. Vega.

 

  1. The Menu

  • Fruit salad with goat cheese
  • Ravioli with white sauce
  • Roasted pork with potatoes
  • Dessert, tea or coffee

 

  1. Overview of Wine’s General Characteristics 

When evaluating red and white wines, you’re looking for a balance of several key characteristics that contribute to the overall experience. While some characteristics are universal, others are more pronounced or specific to one type of wine.

The main characteristics we look for in a good wine are:

  • Acidity: This gives wine its refreshing, crisp, and sometimes tart quality. It’s the “mouth-watering” sensation you feel. Acidity acts as a preservative and provides structure. Higher acidity can make a wine feel lighter.
  • Sweetness (Residual Sugar): Wines can range from bone-dry (no perceptible sugar) to lusciously sweet. Sweetness is due to residual sugar left after fermentation. It balances acidity and can contribute to body.
  • Body/Mouthfeel: This refers to how the wine feels in your mouth – its weight and richness. Factors like alcohol content, residual sugar, and oak aging contribute to body.
  • Aroma/Flavor Profile: This is what you smell and taste. Wines can have a vast array of aromas and flavors, often categorized according to their origins:
  • Primary Aromas/Flavors: From the grape itself (fruits, florals, herbs, spices, earthy notes).
  • Secondary Aromas/Flavors: From the winemaking process (e.g., yeast, butter from malolactic fermentation, toast or vanilla from oak aging).
  • Tertiary Aromas/Flavors: From aging in the bottle (e.g., dried fruit, leather, mushroom, nutty notes).

  • Balance: This is crucial for a good wine. It means all the elements (acidity, sweetness, tannin, alcohol, fruit) are in harmony, with none overpowering the others.
  • Finish/Length: This is the lingering impression of the wine in your mouth after you’ve swallowed it. A long, pleasant finish is a sign of quality.
  • Complexity: A complex wine reveals multiple layers of aromas and flavors that evolve as you taste it. It’s not one-dimensional.
  • Clarity & Color:
  • Clarity: The wine should be clear, not cloudy, unless it’s a specific style of natural wine that intentionally has some haze.
  • Color: The hue can indicate age, grape varietal, and winemaking techniques.

In red wines, Tannins is a key characteristic, derived primarily from grape skins, seeds, and stems, and sometimes from oak aging. They provide structure and allow red wines to age well. Tannins can be described as ripe, smooth, rustic, or green.

Specific Characteristics for White Wines

  • Acidity: generally, white wines tend to have higher acidity than red wines, contributing to their refreshing quality.
  • Color: White wines range from pale straw yellow with green tinges (young, unoaked) to deeper golden hues (oaked, older, or from warmer climates).
  • Typical Flavors: white wines commonly exhibit: i) citrus notes (lemon, lime, grapefruit), ii) tree fruits (apple, pear), iii) stone fruits (peach, apricot), iv) tropical fruits (pineapple, mango), v) floral notes, and often vi) mineral or herbaceous undertones.
  • Absence of Tannins (mostly): white wines are typically made without skin contact during fermentation, meaning they have very little to no tannin (unless aged in new oak barrels, which can impart some).
  1. The Influence of Aroma on Flavor

When tasting wines, the influence of aroma on their flavor and other characteristics, especially in white wines, is fundamental and crucial. In fact, the perception of flavor is overwhelmingly linked to the sense of smell. The sense of smell accounts for 80% of what we perceive as flavor. While the tongue detects basic tastes (sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami), it is the nose that distinguishes the nuances and specific notes, such as fruits, flowers, spices, etc. To prove this, one only needs to hold their nose while tasting a food or drink: the flavors are perceived as much more muted and less defined.

What distinguishes white wines from reds or rosés are the essential aromas and sensations perceived on the palate. White wine is therefore fresh, light, and subtle, and presents flavors highly appreciated by the finest palates.

The wine releases different aromas, each one coming from the terroir, the grape variety, the winemaking technique, or even the wine’s aging process. These aromas are revealed in different stages of the tasting:

  1. Olfactory analysis of white wine

The olfactory examination allows for the identification of the wine’s “nose” (the aromas), thanks to the phenomenon of retro-olfaction. Even before bringing the wine to the mouth, the sense of smell can guide us and deliver the wine’s “bouquet” through two stages:

  • The first nose: This first step consists of smelling the wine in the glass, even before swirling it. It allows for the discovery of possible wine defects, such as cork taint or a vinegar smell.
  • The second nose: This second step consists of swirling the wine in the glass to aerate it and release the aromas. In the second nose, the olfactory analysis already allows us to become aware of the wine’s origins (grape variety, wine region, winemaking method, etc.).

The olfactory analysis of a white wine can indicate whether the wine is “closed” or “open”. We speak of a closed wine when no striking aroma is discovered in the first nose. The wine seems bland and monotonous, very unexpressive. This can then indicate that the white wine is in a so-called “transition phase” of its evolution. The best thing to do then is to help it evolve by decanting it.

  1. Retro-olfactation

When drinking wine, volatile aromatic molecules travel from the mouth through the internal passages to the olfactory receptors in the nose. This process, known as retro-olfaction, is what creates the perception of “flavor” that we associate with the specific notes of the wine.

  1. Aromas in White Wines

White wines offer a delightful and diverse range of aromas, influenced by the grape varietal, the climate it’s grown in, and winemaking techniques. These aromas can be broadly categorized into three types:

  1. Primary Aromas (Varietal Aromas): These come directly from the grape itself. They are the freshest and often most prominent scents in young white wines. This aroma category includes: citrus fruits; tree fruits; stone fruits; tropical fruits; floral; herbal/vegetal; mineral.
  2. Secondary Aromas (Winemaking Aromas): These develop during the fermentation and aging processes.These include: yeast/bread/brioche; dairy/cream/butter; nutty; vanilla/toast/spice.
  3. Tertiary Aromas (Aging Aromas): These develop as the wine matures in the bottle over time. Not all white wines are meant for long aging, but those that are can develop fascinating complexities. These include: dried fruit; honey/caramel; nutty, sherry-like notes; earthy/mushroom; petrol/kerosene.

Understanding these different aroma categories and how they relate to grape varietals and winemaking methods will greatly enhance your enjoyment and appreciation of white wines.  To help guide our tasting, Sergio distributed a tasting sheet detailing the specifics of these categories of aromas, and explained how we should carry out the tasting.

Examples of aromatic profiles in white wines 

White wines offer a fascinating spectrum of aromas. Here you can find a breakdown of some white wines with distinct aromatic profiles (link pdf)aromaticprofiles

6. The Wines

After the tasting Sergio and Cesar revealed the wines described below, and more detailed
description about their main characteristics and profiles was shared with the participants.

A. Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, 2023

Merry Edwards winery is located in the Russian River Valley, California, and is committed to sustainable practices. The winery is highly acclaimed for its Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and its portfolio also includes Chardonnay.
This 100% Sauvignon Blanc varietal is known for its crisp, bright acidity, which is balanced by a silky, creamy texture. Technical data for the 2023 vintage indicates a pH of 3.35 and an alcohol content of 14% ABV.
In terms of aromas, the wine is described as highly aromatic, with a prominent tropical fruit profile. Notes of white pineapple, passionfruit, mango, and guava are complemented by floral hints of plumeria, gardenia, and honeysuckle, as well as citrus accents like lemon curd, lime zest, and ruby red grapefruit. The palate is clean and bright with a long, refreshing finish.

B. Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2023

Ramey Wine Cellars is an iconic California winery located in Healdsburg, Sonoma County. Their Russian River Valley Chardonnay is a benchmark for the region, known for its balance of richness and bright acidity. It is a blend from several cool-climate, low-vigor vineyard sites in the Russian River Valley, primarily planted with the UC Davis Clone 4, known for its prominent acidity. The wine is celebrated for its energetic and vibrant acidity, which provides a crisp, fresh backbone and sense of structure, balancing its rich texture.
The alcohol content can be 13.5% or 14.5% ABV, depending on the specific bottle.
In terms of aromas, the nose is complex and inviting, with aromas of green apple, Meyer lemon, pear, and hints of tangerine and lime.
Subtle notes of lemon blossoms and baking spices from the oak aging add to the complexity. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and layered, with flavors of ripe stone and orchard fruit (white peach, apricot) complemented by vanilla, toasted brioche, and a distinctive minerality.
The finish is long, expressive, and showcases a beautiful balance of creamy texture and lively acidity.

C. Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaime, 2023   Rated Best Buy and Best Wine by the participant Club members.

Domaine des Chenevières is a family-run winery located in Mâcon region of Burgundy, France, with a history spanning six generations. The Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume is a classic expression of Chablis unique, mineral-driven style. Sourced from the esteemed Fourchaume vineyard, this wine benefits from the Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils that are characteristic of the region, which impart a distinctive flinty quality. The 2023 vintage is described as having a vibrant acidity that provides a fresh and lively backbone to the wine. This acidity is a key component that makes the wine feel crisp and well-structured, balancing out its richness.
In terms of aromas, the wine is noted for its complexity and finesse. It offers a
bouquet of citrus, such as lemon and lime, along with green apple, white peach, and hints of floral notes. The palate is rich and full-bodied but maintains a mineral edge, with a long, clean finish that lingers.
Alcohol content for this vintage is generally around 13.5% ABV.

D. Trimbach Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes, 2019

Maison Trimbach is one of the most esteemed and historic wineries in Alsace, France, with a legacy dating back to 1626. The Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes is a special bottling from Trimbach, a testament to the depth and complexity that old, low-yielding vines can achieve.
The 2019 vintage is characterized by its vibrant, incisive, and very precise acidity. This racy acidity provides a clean, fresh backbone that balances the wine concentration and structure.
The alcohol content for this vintage is approximately 14% ABV.
In terms of aromas, the wine is celebrated for its superb aromatic concentration. It presents a complex bouquet of citrus, including lemon, lime, and tangerine, along with notes of white flowers, white peach, and wet slate. On the palate, it is rich, full-bodied, and silky, with a long, mineral-driven finish. As it ages, classic Riesling notes of petrol and honey may emerge.

  1. CV Members Rating 

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 10 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following T able. In the final results, the Chablis Premier Cru ‘Fourchaume’, 2023 was the Best Wine and the Best Buy.

 

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Tasting No 279 – July 29, 2025 The best Merlot regions

Tasting No 279 – July 29, 2025

The best Merlot regions from around the world

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  • Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the best Merlot regions of the Old World – particularly the indigenous wines from the famous appellations of Pomerol and Saint Émilion of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, France – and from the New World, especially the intriguing new wines from Napa Valley, California, USA and Colchagua Valley, Chile. This is an open tasting.

Presenters: Cristian Santelices, Jorge Claro y Luis Uechi

Participants: (to be completed after the meeting)

 

These are the wines:

  1. Château Haut Cardinal, St Éilion – AOC, Grand Cru Classé, 2018
  2. Merelo Coastal Slopes Single Vineyard Merlot, Colchagua Valley – DO, 2021
  3. Château La Pointe, PomerolAOC, 2019
  4. Stephanie Merlot, Napa Valley – AVA, 2018

 

  • The Menu

  • Caprese Salad with Garden Pesto on the side
  • Traditional Lasagna
  • Grilled lamb chops with brown sauce 
  • Dessert, coffee, tea.

 

  • The Merlot Grape Variety

Brief history. Originating in the hills of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, researchers showed in the late 1990s that Merlot variety is an offspring of the native French grapes Cabernet Franc and Magdeleine Noire des Charentes; and is a half-sibling of Carménère, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabs). The Merlot grape has a deep black-blue color and a thin, delicate skin. Its name derives from the local little blackbird (called merlau in the local variant of Occitan language, merle in standard French) who liked eating the ripe grapes on the vine. Merlot entered the wine scene in the late 1700s. The earliest recorded mention of Merlot was in the notes of a French wine official who in 1784 labeled wine made from the grape as one of the Right Bank area’s best. Within 75 years it was planted throughout Bordeaux, where it first earned praise as a powerful blending wine to add softness and lushness to the favorite grape of the region, Cabs – this match led to the world-renowned Bordeaux blend, which has delighted wine enthusiasts for centuries – and then began to spread across the world throughout the 19th and 20th century as both a blending grape and for varietal wines. Although it thrives in the maritime climate and clay and limestone soil that characterize Bordeaux, part of Merlot’s success is its adaptability to grow in a variety of soils and climates, which enables it to flourish in most wine-producing countries across the globe. The winemakers called it the “chameleon variety” because, regardless of where it was grown, it developed differently, offering distinct shades. The International Merlot Grape Day, celebrated on November 7th, is a relatively recent event created to promote and honor one of the most noble and most elegant grape varieties in the world, as well as one of the most widely cultivated.

Viticulture: Compared to Cabs, Merlot grapes have a thinner skin and fewer tannins per unit volume, a higher sugar content, lower malic acid, and it normally ripens up to 2 weeks earlier. Merlot thrives in the maritime climate and clay and limestone soil. Water stress is important to the vine with it thriving in well-drained soil. Pruning is a major component to the quality of the wine that is produced with some producers believing it is best to prune the vine “short” (cutting back to only a few buds) and to reduce the yields of Merlot grapes to improve quality. The age of the vine is also important, with older vines contributing character to the resulting wine. One characteristic of the Merlot grape is the propensity to quickly overripen once it hits its initial ripeness level, sometimes in a matter of a few days. There are two schools of thought on the right time to harvest Merlot: (i) The traditional “Bordeaux-style” favors early picking to best maintain the wine’s acidity and finesse as well as its potential for aging, and produces more medium-bodied wines with moderate alcohol levels that have fresh, red fruit flavors (raspberries, strawberries) and potentially leafy, vegetal notes. (ii) The “International style” (favored by many New World wine regions) tends to emphasize late harvesting to gain physiological ripeness and produce inky, purple-colored wines that are fruit forwarded with hints of plum and blackberry, full in body with high alcohol and lush, velvety tannins.

How Is Merlot Wine Made? To begin the winemaking, vintners take care to remove all stems from the Merlot grapes to decrease the tannin level and bitterness of the wine. The grapes get fermented at 28°C to 30°C (82 to 86°F) with the skins on, which lends the wine a rich red color. Because they have thinner skin than other red wine grapes, Merlot wine naturally has a lower tannin level. During the fermentation, many producers will push down on the skins 3 times a day to keep them wet. Time spent in skins varies between vintners, but an average is 14 to 21 days – for a softer finish, producers keep the wine for fewer days on the skins. Following the fermentation process, winemakers store Merlot inside oak barrels at a temperature of 20°C (68°F), or a little below, and typically age it for about 8 months to a year. Like with any wine, vintners can make variations during the process to change the flavor profile of a Merlot. The degree of aeration, force of press, time of harvest and temperature all contribute to the unique character of each Merlot variety.

What kind of wine is Merlot? With a velvet-red color and medium-to-full body, this fruity wine falls between Pinot noir and Syrah wines in fullness and hue. Merlot has a higher ABV, ranging from 13 to 15%, a result of the grape’s naturally higher sugar levels. While Merlot is a dry wine, it is sweeter than other reds. Because of Merlot’s milder flavor and lower tannin levels, winemakers often use it in blends to soften stronger red wines, especially Cabs. Vineyards sometimes age Merlot in oak to increase its richness or complexity during the winemaking process. Merlot is truly an international grape, and its wine comes in many different styles. “Old World” Merlots (or made in the traditional “Bordeaux-style” especially from locations of the Right Bank of Bordeaux like Saint Émilion and Pomerol) is incredibly complex and takes time to develop and mature. Conversely, “New World” Merlots (or made in the “International Style”) are often grown in warmer climates which brings out more of the plummy, fruity characteristics. These require little to no aging and are usually ready to drink as soon as you buy them. Despite Merlot’s popularity in its home region, winemakers did not produce it as a single variant until the grape traveled outside France (see United States in seccion 4 of this blog) 

Merlot’s Taste Profile. The most notable aromas and flavors of Merlot wine are those of fruit. Often it carries raspberry notes, as well as plum, black cherry, blueberries and even jam, which give many Merlots an aroma similar to fruitcake. Other common notes of Merlot include graphite, cedar, tobacco, vanilla, cloves and chocolate. While it is a dry wine, Merlot is comparatively low in tannins. That creates a smoother, less bitter experience, and makes Merlot softer and easier to consume. However, depending on the climate where the grapes grow, Merlot wines can have a diverse array of flavors: (i) Cool-climate varieties are the classic Merlot. From the hills of France, Italy and Chile, these strains feature “earthy flavors” like tobacco and tar. Due to their higher concentration of tannins, it’s easy to confuse these Merlots with Cabernets, their regional counterpart. These Merlots contribute to the renowned Right Bank Bordeaux blends, along with vintage strains such as Saint Émilion and Pomerol. (ii) Warm-Climate Merlots heavily feature “fruit notes” and a lighter body. Grown in the sun-filled valleys of California (CA) – classic warm-climate Merlots come from Napa Valley and Paso Robles – and Australia, these wines have a lower tannin presence and a softer finish. Vintners sometimes prefer an oak-aging process of up to 24 months, which gives the delicate wine more structure.

 

  1. Regions of production 

The wines to be tasted come from France (The Right Bank of Bordeaux), United States (Napa Valley), and Chile (Colchagua Valley)

Merlot’s versatility in growing on various soils and climates, combined with its use as both a blending grape and for high-quality varietal wines, has contributed to its status as one of the most popular red wine varieties in many markets. This popularity has made it one of the world’s most widely planted wine grape varieties. In 2016, approximately 266,000 hectares were planted globally, out of an estimated total of 1.966.000 hectares for the top 10 wine-grapevine varieties. As a result, Merlot’s global ranking increased from 4th to 2nd place, representing 5.93% of the world’s top 10 vineyard areas – up from 3% in 1990. It is now just behind Cabs, which covered 340,000 hectares, nearly 7% of the top 10 vineyard areas – up from 2% in 1990 when it was 8th in the global rank.

Merlot thrives in moderate to warm climates and on varied terrains, particularly in clay soils. Generally it offers a consistent profile of soft texture and ripe fruit flavors, but these can vary based on the region. Some of the top-producing Merlot grape countries are: France (112,000 hectares); Italy (24,000 hectares); USA (21,000 hectares); China (16,000 hectares); Chile (12,000 hectares); Spain (12,000 hectares); Romania (12,000 hectares), and Australia (8,000 hectares). Every terroir where the grapes thrive produces slightly different characteristics in the wine.

FRANCE. Merlot is the most commonly grown grape variety in France, which is home to more than 40% of the world’s total plantings (112,000 hectares out of 266,000 hectares), covering 14% of France’s bearing area, and notably accounting for about 55% of overall plantings in Bordeaux, its birthplace. In the traditional Bordeaux blend, Merlot’s role is to smooth out the wines. It is often blended with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Cabs, and Petit Verdot. Despite accounting for 50-60% of overall plantings in Bordeaux, the grape tends to account for an average of 25% of the blends. However, Merlot is much more prominent on the Right Bank of the Gironde, where it will commonly comprise the majority of the blend, but you can also find fine single varietal expressions. 

In the appellation of Pomerol – the smallest wine producing area in the Bordeaux region, with only 813 hectares, less than 1% of Bordeaux’s bearing area, it is more a community where the vineyards are family-shared -, Merlot usually accounts for around 80% of the blend, and the iron-clay soils of the region give the grape more of a tannic backbone than what is found in other Bordeaux regions. The wines express robust flavors of black cherry, plum, and subtle truffle notes while offering a velvety texture. They become meaty and chocolatey with age and can improve for decades. The elegance of these wines results from the perfect blend with Cabernet Franc, influenced by Pomerol’s distinctive terroir. It was in Pomerol that the garagistes movement began with small-scale production of highly sought after Merlot-based wines – one of the most famous and rare wines in the world, Château Pétrus, is almost all Merlot and produced here in a small estate of just 11.4 hectares; it only produces around 30,000 bottles per year – a 750 ml bottle of Pétrus wine is priced at an average of $4,112, and produces no second wine.

In the sandy, clay-limestone-based soils of the appellation of Saint-Émilion – its 5,400 hectares represent 6% of the total Bordeaux vineyard – Merlot accounts for around 60% of the blend and is usually blended with Cabernet Franc and Cabs. Saint-Émilion was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 (Jurisdiction of Saint-Emilion) as a cultural landscape, demonstrating a long, living history of wine-making -dating from Roman times. Limestone and clay soils here contribute to structured, complex Merlot wines, which tend to develop more perfume and fresh mineral notes – expect blackcurrant and dark cherry, with hints of chocolate and spice, while sandy soils produce wines that are generally softer than Merlot grown in clay dominant soils. 

UNITED STATES (US). The US has also become a significant presence in the Merlot world cultivating around 8% of the world’s total plantings. Covering around 8.7% of US’ bearing area in 2016, Merlot is the 4th most planted wine grape after Chardonnay (17.9%), Cabs (17%), and Pinot Noir (10.4%), with California and Washington State growing the most alongside Cabs. Compared to France, you’ll find riper, more fruit-forward styles in general, but each state and AVA produce different wines based on their unique terroir. Specifically in Californa, the style of Merlot can vary from very fruity simple wines to more serious, barrel aged examples – it can also be used as a primary component in Bordeaux-style blends – with the grape being found all across the state in both warmer and cooler climate regions. 

Merlot arrived in California in the mid-19th century but remained relatively obscure until after World War II, when vintners began using Merlot primarily to develop stand-alone labeled varietal wine, due to Americans’ love of the lightness and lower tannin levels of the wine – though some winemakers encouraged taking the grape back to its blending roots with Bordeaux-style blends. As the winemaking industry in CA grew, vintners recognized Merlot as an easy and fast rise grape to produce in large quantities. Its ability to mass produce, coupled with its milder flavor, caused Merlot to skyrocket to fame. Red wine consumption, in general, increased in the US following the 1991 airing of the ‘60 Minutes’ report on the French Paradox and the potential health benefits of wine. Along this decade and following the “Merlot wine craze”, Merlot saw an upswing of popularity and enjoyed incredible market success in the US – with the grape plantings of over 20,640 hectares in 2004 -stemmed from its softer, fruity profile that made it more approachable to some wine drinkers.

However, due to its fast rise, many producers were growing the grapes in subpar conditions and over-irrigating the vines to meet market demands. Rushed production led to the creation of cheap, low-quality wine that began to tarnish the wine’s reputation, and since 2004 Merlot had its downfall. A study published in Wine and Vines magazine in 2009 indicated that the 2004 movie Sideways, where the lead character is a Pinot Noir fan who expresses his disdain of Merlot, caused a decline in Merlot sales in the US – and an even larger spike of interest in Pinot Noir. By 2010, plantings of CA Merlot had dropped to 18,924 hectares (-8.3%). After that decline, however, the winemakers who continued to grow Merlot renewed their commitment to producing top quality wines. This revival did not go unnoticed, and public opinion about Merlot started to shift, leading to a rebound in plantings.

While Merlot is grown throughout the state, it is particularly prominent in Napa Valley, Monterey, and Sonoma County. In Napa, thanks to the high levels of sunshine and heat, you can expect full-bodied, smooth, velvety styles of Merlot with buckets of fruit flavor – expect ripe blackberry, plum and black cherry notes, and in some versions, whilst bold and rich, can also have a slightly minty note, keeping it fresh and exciting. The Napa Valley is California’s first recognized AVA since 1981 and the 2nd in the US. Within the Napa Valley AVA exist 17 nested AVAs – each with its own unique geographic, geological, climatic and historical characteristics that influence the grapes grown there, including Yountville, where the Stephanie Merlot -one of the wines to be tasted – comes from. 

CHILE. Chile is another perfect homeland for Merlot, cultivating around 4% of the world’s total plantings in 2016. Covering around 8.5% of Chile’ bearing area in 2021 (10,819 ha. out of 129,000 ha.), Merlot is the 3rd most planted wine grape after Cabs (29%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11%). It thrives in the Apalta region of Colchagua Province. It is also grown in significant quantities in Curicó, and the Maipo Valley. Chilean Merlot wines vary from easy-drinking and fruity bottlings of the north part of the Central Valley to more structured and serious examples from Colchagua Valley, Maule Valley, and Maipo

A fun fact on the grape’s history in Chile is that, in the 1800’s, cuttings thought to be Merlot were brought over from Bordeaux and planted in Chilean vineyards. At the beginning of the 1990s the nature of the Chilean Merlot grapes was questioned because the wines they were producing were less aromatic than expected with a boost of extra complexity’. In 1994, a grape researcher – ampelographer – named Jean Michel Boursiquot realized that much of what had been grown as Merlot was actually Carménère, an old French variety that had gone largely extinct in France due to its poor resistance to Phylloxera. So, until the early 1990s, the Chilean wine industry mistakenly sold a large quantity of wine made from the Carménère grape as Merlot. While the vines, leaves, and grapes look very similar, both grapes produce wines with distinct characteristics: Carménère being more strongly flavored with green pepper notes and Merlot having softer fruit with chocolate notes.

Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Château Haut Cardinal, Saint-Émilion – AOC, Grand Cru Classé, 2018 

The producer: Château Haut Cardinal is owned by Jean-Marie Carrille, with his son Philippe, who owns Château Poupille in Côtes de Castillon, serving as the winemaker. The estate features a small 1.51-hectare vineyard situated on the highest plateau (north-facing) of Saint-Emilion. The terroir, described as “Argilo-calcaire avec roches mères affleurantes,” is a renowned clay-limestone soil known for producing refined wines. The vineyard features 70-year-old vines and is organically certified, with the entire vineyard planted with Merlot. The annual production is approximately 9,000 bottles.

Better control of yields and careful grape selection are the priorities for this Château. This is why they practice grassing on these plots, and the grapes are sorted at several stages of their development. Grassing is a soil management technique that involves using grass or other vegetative cover to help control erosion and manage soil moisture around the vines, rather than as an ingredient in the wine itself. 

In July, during the green harvest and at harvest time, grapes are sorted manually in two passes on the sorting table. Green harvesting, also known as crop thinning or vendange verte, is a viticultural practice in which unripe grape bunches are removed from the vine before the main harvest. This technique is employed to reduce yield, improve the quality of the remaining grapes, and achieve better ripeness and concentration in the final wine.

The wine: 

Vintage: 2018         Grape Variety: Merlot 100% 

Region: Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

Appellation: Saint-Émilion – AOC, Grand Cru Classé.

Vinification and ageing: Manual harvesting, concrete tanks, 70% new oak barrels for aging. 

Alcohol: 14% ABV.     Annual production: appx. 9,000 bottles.

Structure: Firm tannins and good acidity, requiring time to soften.

Tasting profile: The 2018 Château Haut Cardinal, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé is described as a classic Saint-Émilion red, emphasizing red fruit flavors and a smooth texture. It is characterized by balance and elegance, with a full-bodied profile. The wine likely displays notes of plum and black cherry, possibly complemented by chocolate, vanilla, and spice hints. The vintage is renowned for its rich, concentrated, and velvety wines, characterized by ripe fruit and tannins.

Wine #2. Merelo Coastal Slopes Single Vineyard Merlot, 2021

The producer: Located in the the Coastal Range foothills of the Colchagua Valley, the vineyard is surrounded by a unique natural setting, where a flourishing potent winemaking tradition, Chilean heritage, and gastronomy coexist. This single-vineyard Merlot was cultivated and produced by winemaker Marcelo Parra, who has nearly three decades of experience developing Merlot in the region. In the 1990s, driven by his passion for Merlot, Marcelo saw the potential to cultivate this grape variety in the Colchagua Valley and patiently waited for the vines to mature. The wine’s name “Merelo,” is a blend of his name and his favorite grape, Merlot – it is also his nickname. 

This wine exemplifies the varietal, featuring a soft yet bold Merlot profile, grown on the coastal slopes of the Valley that provide a unique terroir for winemaking, characterized by well-drained granitic soils, cooler temperatures, and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions, influenced by the proximity to the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains, help produce high-quality red wines with excellent color, freshness, and aging potential, especially Merlot, Carménère, and Cabs. The well-drained granitic soils on the slopes are perfect for grapevines, encouraging them to grow deeper roots and produce smaller, more concentrated berries with strong flavors. And the grapes being sourced from a single vineyard indicates a focus on expressing the unique characteristics of the vineyard’s terroir.

The wine: 

Vintage: 2021          Grape Variety: Merlot 100% 

Appellation: Colchagua Valley – DO

Region: Colchagua Valley, Chile     Alcohol: 13.5% ABV:

Structure: This Chilean Merlot is elegant and fruity, complemented by earthy notes. It is full-bodied and refined, with medium-minus acidity, and exhibits some traits characteristic of Old World Syrah.

Tasting profile: Described as full-bodied with chewy tannins, this Merlot has lower acidity and smoother tannins compared to Cabs. The nose offers an enticing aroma of black fruits, barnyard notes, vegetables, herbs, and dark chocolates. On the palate, the wine is dry, revealing flavors of black plums, cooked cherries, black currants, oak, dark chocolate, light vegetables, earth, subtle bitter herbs, and peppercorn. The initial taste is relatively subdued, featuring lighter tannins and acidity than prominent fruit notes. The fruit showcases an almost-ripe mix of various black berries. A vegetable element also appears, and the acids quickly and gently tickle your cheeks, with a hint of softer fruit emerging. As expected from the palate notes, the finish is nicely long and clean, with fine-grained tannins and tangy raspberries.

Opening bottle suggestions: Needs 20 minutes of airtime to open up properly – it becomes earthier as it opens. Poured at room temperature and swirled vigorously, shows shy, almost-ripe-but-not-quite blackberries. Will pair nicely with game meats and aged cheeses.

Wine #3. Château La Pointe, Pomerol- AOC, 2019

The producer: The “Cocks & Féret” Bordeaux wine guide remains a reference today. The 1868 edition listed Château La Pointe with notable estates like Beauregard and Trotanoy. La Pointe was among the 1st in Pomerol with a “Château” name, thanks to its Directoire-style mansion. This status helped position it as a top estate. Records show awards from 1882 and 1883, including a silver medal at Bordeaux and at Amsterdam’s Universal Exhibition.

Pomerol, with just 813 hectares – less than 1% of Bordeaux’s vineyards – produces rare, confidential wines. The average estate is only 5 hectares, in a complex, varied terrain where plots intertwine. Its proximity to Libourne’s port facilitated Atlantic access, vital for exports primarily to England, Northern Europe, and the world. Merlot, the emblematic grape, is complemented by diverse soils supporting great Cabernet Francs.

Château La Pointe, with its 23 hectares of vines in a single block, can produce 120,000 bottles annually and ranks among the five most important properties in Pomerol, one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious appellations, along with Saint-Emilion, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Saint-Estèphe. The name “La Pointe” comes from the vineyard’s unique geometry, featuring a large, pointed triangular vine plot at the estate’s entrance. The new cellars of Château La Pointe, completed in 2009, were designed as environmentally friendly. They also include a drainage system and an eco-friendly vat room, allowing for parcel-by-parcel vinification.

Château La Pointe’s vineyard in Pomerol is on sloped terrain with three main soil types: gravel and pebble on the Isle River terrace; the highly regarded clay gravel soil; and a sandy layer over clay or gravel, improved with drainage to control water, yields, and promote ripeness.

The wine: 

Vintage: 2019     Grape Variety: Merlot 76% – Cabernet Franc 24%

Region/Appellation: Bordeaux, Pomerol – AOC, France

Vinification and ageing: vinification takes place in traditional, 80-hectoliter stainless tanks. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels for 50% of the harvest. The remaining 50% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in tanks. The wines are then aged in 100% new, French oak barrel for an average of 12 months.

Alcohol: 14.5% ABV

Production: 64,000 bottles

Tasting profile: The wine exhibits a bright crimson color with pure red fruit aromas, enveloped in violet notes upon swirling. The juicy, energetic palate has smooth tannins for a velvety feel, complemented by discreet, integrated oak. It exudes freshness and elegance, reflecting the vine grower’s effort and careful vinification—truly a vintage revelation. The 2019 vintage is an exceptional one. To be enjoyed 6 years from now and up to 20 years old or more. 

Wine #4: Stephanie Merlot, Napa Valley – AVA, 2018

The producer: Hestan Vineyards is a picturesque estate located on the remote eastern slopes of Napa Valley. Named after owners Helen and Stanley Cheng, whose passion for fine wines and admiration for Napa Valley’s beauty inspired them to purchase the property—a former cattle ranch—in 1996. They quickly started planting grapes and gradually expanded small blocks to optimize the site’s diverse exposures and well-drained soils. Demonstrating their commitment to land stewardship, both the vineyard and gardens are managed sustainably and run entirely on solar power. Mr. Cheng serves as CEO of the Meyer Corporation, the world’s 2nd-largest cookware manufacturer, known for brands like Circulon, KitchenAid, and Faberware.

The Hestan Vineyard covers 127 acres, including 52 acres (21 hectares) of vine-covered land with vineyard’s vines that have an average of 8 years and benefits from a distinctive combination of soils and growing conditions. They thrive on slopes with silt and rocky soils, producing low-yield grapes like Merlot, Cabs, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.

The terroir of Hestan Vineyards on the eastern slopes of Napa Valley features diverse soils, including rocky, silt, alluvial, marine sediments, and volcanic deposits, especially on the eastern slopes. These soils, along with a microclimate moderate, with cool marine influence which means it is constantly experiencing fog and wind and a noticeable diurnal temperature fluctuation, create a unique terroir that influences wine character and complexity. Well-drained soils benefit grape growing by preventing excess water and promoting healthy vines. The Stephanie wines — named for the owner’s only daughter — are made from all five of the classic red Bordeaux grapes. 

The wine: 

Vintage: 2018

Grape Variety: 76% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot

Region: Napa Valley, California, USA 

Appellation: Napa Valley -AVA, Yountville (nested AVA)

Vinification and aging: 27 Months in new French Oak 

Alcohol: 14.5% ABV             Production: 5,500 bottles

Tasting profile: On the nose, a complex blend of red currants, dried sage, and red licorice. The palate offers cassis, hints of blueberry, and baking spices. This wine has concentrated fruit flavors and is considered medium to full-bodied, with fine tannins. It boasts a robust balanced structure of vibrant acidity and well-integrated velvety tannins resulting in a medium to long finish that includes fruit and spice. Decant and enjoy with a rack of lamb. 

 

References

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merlot

https://winefolly.com/grapes/merlot/

https://www.firstleaf.com/wine-school/article/the-ultimate-guide-to-merlot?srsltid=AfmBOorsol-RLb0QGJHFUPtME4hzhoRIYc12kvsk6-o0ZmykS6fQ3Nd8

https://www.oiv.int/sites/default/files/2024-04/OIV_STATE_OF_THE_WORLD_VINE

https://winebusinessanalytics.com/sections/printout_article.cfm?content=61265&article=feature#:~:text=HIGHLIGHTS,sales%20to%20the%20same%20extent.

https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/2013/11/november-7-international-merlot-day-drinking-celebrate/

Recommended Videos on Merlot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA_mJovIodg

https://napavintners.com/napa_valley/yountville-ava/

https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/haut+cardinal+st+emilion+grand+cru+bordeaux+france/2018

https://www.leirovins.be/nl/webshop/13157/frankrijk/bordeaux-saint-emilion/chateau-haut-cardinal-saint-emilion-grand-cru

https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/merlot/old-merelo-merlot-single-vineyard/p/235693750

https://www.vivino.com/CA/en/cl-bodegas-centenarias-merelo-coastal-slopes-single-vineyard-merlot/

https://www.winetourism.com/wine-appellation/colchagua-valley/

https://www.winesofchile.org/

http://www.chateaulapointe.com/en/

ANG 1er vin 2019 – Château La Pointe

https://www.hestanvineyards.com/store/product/2018-stephanie-merlot/

https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/merlot/stephanie-merlot-napa/p/117234750 

CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

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Tasting No 278 – June 24, 2025 – Highlights from Central Europe: wines from Austria and Hungary

Tasting No 278 – June 24, 2025

Highlights from Central Europe: wines from Austria and Hungary

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Wachau, DAC Austria

 

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore some notable wines produced in two countries in Central Europe: Austria and Hungary.  This is an open tasting.

Presenters:  Claudia and Agilson Perazza

Participants: M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Estrada; J. García;  R. Gutierrez; A. and C. Perazza; C. Santelices; P. Turina; L. Uechi, G. Vega and C. Falconi (guest).

 

These are the wines

  1. Rudi Pichler ‘Terrassen’ Smaragd Gruner Veltliner, 2023
  2. Disznoko, Tokaji Dry, Furmint, 2023
  3. Erich Sattler Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2021
  4. Paul Achs, Blaufrankisch, Heideboden, 2021
  5. Disznóko ‘1413’ Edes Szamorodni, 2021

 

The Menu

  • Smoked salmon with greens
  • Cheese Raviolis in tomato sauce
  • Veal marsala with vegetables.
  •  Dessert, coffee or tea.
  1. Austria and its Wines

A mountainous, landlocked country in Central Europe, Austria is enjoying a renaissance as a wine-producing nation. It has worked its way free from decades-old controversy caused by a careless few, and has emerged as a role model for modern European wine – a leader in quality and innovation.

Viticulture in Austria dates back to Roman times. Evidence of vineyard cultivation surrounding Carnuntum DAC and the Thermen regions suggests that vines were planted here 2000 years ago. The steep terraces along the Danube River and its tributaries in Wachau and Kamptal were built by monks from monasteries in Bavaria and Salzburg. The vineyards of Vienna have a rich tradition of ‘Heurigen’ (meaning both wine tavern and the wine served inside), where locals can enjoy the proprietor’s homemade wines.

For much of the 20th Century, Austria was associated with sweet, mass-produced wine made of Gruner Veltliner and Muller-Thurgau. Producers are now focusing more on crisp, dry wine styles, some of which age very well.

This move to drier wines partly resulted from the 1985 “anti-freeze scandal”, in which diethylene glycol was found to have been added to some bulk-produced wines to increase levels of sweetness and body, reminiscent of a late-harvest dessert style wine. The scandal led to the collapse of the Austrian wine industry – in terms of both exports and reputation – but stricter wine laws were enacted, and the industry has recovered.

Balancing the traditional with the modern, the Austrian wine industry has retained such classics as sweet Ausbruch and Strohwein, while actively developing modern, consumer-friendly wines such as its signature style: the crisp, white, aromatic Gruner Veltliner.

Geography and climate of wine regions

Located right at the heart of Europe, between the latitudes of 46°N and 48°N, Austria lies parallel with central France and south of Germany. Logically, the climate is slightly warmer than that of Germany, and this is reflected in the wine styles.

Austria’s wine regions can be found primarily in the northeast of the country. Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) is the largest wine region with 24,145 hectares (59,663 acres) of vineyards responsible for approximately half of the total wine output. It is where you’ll find the country’s most popular and important wine varieties including Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Within Lower Austria, the regions of Wachau, Kamptal, and the prestigious Kremstal consistently produce the highest rated wines in the region.

Very little Mediterranean influence makes it over the Alps into Austria, creating a strongly continental climate, with pronounced temperature shifts from day to night and from summer to winter. Numerous varied mesoclimates lie in between the extremes, moderated by large bodies of water such as the Danube River (which flows through the northern regions), and Lake Neusiedl.

Moving south, the climate is a bit warmer where it’s moderated by Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. Just south of Vienna, a warmer pocket of wine regions produces outstanding red wines, including Zwiegelt, Blaufränkisch, and Saint Laurent.

Burgenland region on Austria’s eastern border is the second largest with 12,249 ha (30,267 acres). Vienna is often described as a prominent wine region despite its relatively small vineyard area and wine output, in comparison to other regions, followed by Styria with 4324ha (10,684 acres).

In Steiermark (Styria), it is cooler, and there are some incredible examples of Sauvignon Blanc, a spicy rosé called Schilcher, and Muskateller (an aromatic but dry Muscat Blanc wine).

Wine classifications: Austrian wine laws are strongly influenced by those of neighboring Germany. The country’s wine quality classification system is based on must weight (sugar content) of the grapes, measured on the Klosterneuburger Mostwaage scale (KMW). There are three basic quality levels: TafelweinQualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

Austria wines also follow the ‘Districtus Austriae Controllatus’ (DAC) appellation system, introduced in 2003. In a similar way to France’s AOP classification, the DAC wine laws impose certain constraints covering permitted grape varieties, alcohol levels and oak maturation regimes. The goal of these is to ensure that wines bearing a DAC title represent an authentic example of the classic regional style. As of 2020, Austria had sixteen DAC titles. Here are some of the titles or appellations are relevant to today’s tasting:

Wachau – is a small but important wine district on the Danube River in northern Austria. One of Austria’s most famous and respected wine regions, Wachau is known for its full-bodied, pepper-tinged Grüner Veltliner and rich, steely Riesling. Wachau has a unique set of wine designations for its white wines – Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd. This three-tier classification was developed by the region’s producers as a way of communicating the style of their wines, beyond region and grape variety.

Steinfeder wines are the lightest: fresh and tangy, with a maximum of 11.5 percent ABV;

Federspiel wines are the middleweight category (11.5–12.5 percent ABV), with the racy, precise, elegance of a hunting falcon; and

Smaragd wines are the richest and fullest-bodied, with a minimum of 12 percent ABV.

Neusiedlersee – Burgenland’s Lake Neusiedl (Neusiedlersee) is one of the viticultural focus points of the region. It stores summer heat from the Pannonian Plain, an expansive, warm area covering much of Hungary and eastern Austria, effectively lengthening the ripening season into autumn. Best-known for its sweet white wines, the Neusiedlersee region is a DAC designation that is also forging a reputation for red wines made entirely from Zweigelt – the only other wine style covered by the DAC title (others are labeled “Burgenland”).

Additionally, other non-DAC Neusiedlersee wines include “Heideboden” – a regional name for an area extending east of Lake Neusiedl. The soils are sandy-calcareous and permeable, which is ideal for growing grapevines. Wines from Heideboden are often full-bodied and fruity.

Key Grape varieties

Officially, 35 grape varieties are permitted for use in Austrian quality wine, of which almost two-thirds are white-wine varieties.

Gruner Veltliner: is by far the most important white grape, followed by Riesling. Other varieties important to Austrian white wine include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc (known here by its German name Weissburgunder).

Almost half of Austria’s vineyards are planted with Gruner Veltliner, which is known as the nation’s signature grape variety, occupying 14,376 hectares (35,523 acres) of the variety is found planted primarily in the Niederösterreich and Burgenland regions.

‘Herbaceous and zesty’ – expect racy acidity with an herbaceous tingle of pepper. Grüner Veltliner is often likened to Sauvignon Blanc because of its green flavors of white pepper and green bean. Most people who start with an affordable Grüner Veltliner will taste this, but what’s interesting is what happens when you spend a little more. The higher-quality Reserve, Smaragd, or Steiermark denominations are much richer, almost like an oaked Chardonnay from Burgundy.

With its green herbaceous notes, Grüner Veltliner makes a perfect accompaniment with sushi. However, it will work wonders with cilantro-driven Mexican dishes as well.

Austria’s red wines are made primarily from Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Saint-Laurent and Pinot Noir (aka Blauburgunder).

Blaufränkisch (aka Lemberger and Kékfrankos) is a black-skinned wine grape grown widely in Austria and Hungary, and to a lesser extent in neighboring Germany, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Bulgaria and Croatia. In Austria, Blaufränkisch is the second most popular red wine variety, behind Zweigelt. It is grown in almost every wine region, to some extent, but its stronghold is in Burgenland, where approximately 2,632 hectares (6,504 acres) were cultivated in 2015.

Blaufränkisch is Austria’s champion age-worthy red wine with a vein of acidity and big tannins. They’re often a little harsh when young, but Blaufränkisch wines become wonderfully subtle and lush with age. Expect blackberry, tart cherry, and an elegant citrus-like spice in Blaufränkisch wines along with a pronounced burst of tannins in the mid-palate. Blaufränkisch is rich with moderate tannin and should be paired with rich, grilled foods. Try it with your next BBQ tenderloin or smoked tofu burger.

Zweigelt – While native to Austria, Zweigelt is actually a fairly recent cross bred by Dr. Zweigelt in 1922. He crossed two native varieties, Blaufränkisch, for its peppery bite, with St. Laurent, chosen for its elegance. Zweigelt is the most-planted red wine grape variety, occupying 6311ha (15,594 acres).

It is a lighter red wine, similar to Grenache or Gamay, that is rarely oaked. Since it’s a cool climate red, the finish will often have a slightly bitter note. Even though most Zweigelt is on the affordable side, there are a few age-worthy examples that give off rich cherry flavors with a touch of oak.

A ‘cherry bomb’: the best advice to someone who wants to try Zweigelt is to give it about an hour to decant. A Zweigelt that may initially have a bitter or tart finish suddenly becomes deeper and fruitier, exhibiting black cherry and raspberry notes.

Zweigelt has moderate acidity and pairs with Austria’s traditional Spätzle and Schnitzel. However, try chicken tenders and tater tots for a more American version.

St. Laurent (or Sankt Laurient), it is worth mentioning, even though accounts for only 2% of Austria’s vineyards, this wine grape has a surprising similarity in flavor to Pinot Noir.  Some DNA profiling suggests that it is even a direct offspring of Pinot Noir, but this finding remains unsubstantiated, and debate continues on whether there is a relationship.

“Raspberry and baking spice”- Sankt Laurent wines tend to be dark purple in color, structured yet silky with a characteristic dark-cherry. Blackberries, smoke and spice are also commonly exhibited. The wines are often matured in oak and show good aging ability. Although the demand for St. Laurent has increased, making it a bit more expensive and harder to find, it offers a great alternative to Pinot Noir. As such, St. Laurent loves delicately flavored foods with an element of richness. Pairing examples include ricotta-stuffed tortellini with a St. Laurent-based Beurre-Rouge. Food pairings for St. Laurent wines include Rheinischer Sauerbraten (baked pickled beef marinated with juniper berries, cloves and nutmeg); blackened pork with apple sauce; barbecued beef ribs with caramelized onions.

 

  1. Hungary – the best-kept secret of the old wine world

Hungary, in central Europe, has gained its reputation in the wine world through just a couple of wine styles, but for centuries it has been a wine-producing nation of considerable diversity.

“Ever-associated in the minds of enophiles with the sumptuous sweet white wines of Tokaji, Hungary boasts a proud, longstanding – and diverse – wine heritage”.

In addition to the sweet wines of Tokaj and the deep Bull’s Blood of Eger, the Hungarian wine portfolio includes dry whites from the shores of Lake Balaton, Somló and Neszmély, and finer reds from various regions, notably Villány, Sopron and Szekszard.

Hungarian wine culture stretches back to Roman times and has survived numerous political, religious and economic challenges, including Islamic rule during the 16th Century (when alcohol was prohibited) and the Phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s.

Geography and terroir

The country is located between the 46th and 49th parallel, which is actually the same latitude range as many of France’s top wine regions from Northern Rhône to Champagne. Hungary’s rolling hills are rich in volcanic soils and limestone–idyllic soil types for fine winemaking.

The modern Hungarian wine regions are distributed around the country. The country has 22 official wine districts within 6 wine regions, each of which have their own particular blend of culture, history, terroir and wine style. The wine district is what is usually indicated on the wine bottle and is the perfect delimitation of the wine’s place of origin for consumers.

The eastern side of Hungary is wrapped by the Carpathian Mountains, which have a considerable impact on the local climate, protecting the land from the cold winds that would otherwise blow in from across Poland and western Ukraine. The generally continental climate is also moderated by lakes Balaton and Neusiedl, allowing for a longer, more temperate growing season.

The largest wine region is the Danube wine region, located between the Danube and the Tisza rivers. The wine districts around the “Hungarian Sea” comprise the Balaton wine region. The wine districts in the Northern Central Mountains form the Upper Hungary wine region. Travelling from Sopron to Budapest, you pass through the Upper Pannon wine region, while the southernmost wine districts in Transdanubia make up the Pannon wine region.

The top wine districts and grape varieties in Hungary

The Tokaj region is the gold standard of the Hungarian wine regions. It is Hungary’s most famous wine region, the oldest classified wine region in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to the world’s first noble rot wine–the sweet golden Tokaji Aszú, and more recently the dry Furmint.

The Tokaj wine district has such special historical traditions and natural endowments that it is an independent wine region in its own right. The region and its wine are held in such esteem in Hungary that the national anthem thanks God for it: “Tokaj szolovesszein nektárt csepegtettél” (into the vineyards of Tokaj you dripped sweet nectar).

The region is located in the northeast of Hungary, near the border with Slovakia. Comprising roughly 30 small towns and villages scattered along rolling hills and nestled between the rivers Tisza and Bodrog. The rivers create a special microclimate in the area with high levels of moisture in the air, offset by wind and abundant sunshine. This creates optimal conditions for botrytized wines. The region sits on a range of clay-dominant soils of red, yellow, brown, and white clay, along with loess, strewn atop volcanic rock subsoil that’s rich in iron and lime.

Tokaj had a major wine economy in the 1700’s, when Poland and Russia were ravaging fans of the sweet Tokaji Aszú. Peter the Great was such an Aszú fanatic that he stationed a permanent military barrack in Tokaj to ensure there would be no interruption to his constant stream of liquid gold to the royal palace in St. Petersburg.

Furmint is the dominant white grape variety in the Tokaj region, where it occupies almost two-thirds of total vineyard area. The varietal has already proven itself as one of the great white varieties of the world, with an impressive minerality and structure. Furmint dominates the Tokaji blend and is renowned for its naturally high acidity, high sugar levels and spicy aromatic profile. The first two of these characteristics are responsible for the wine’s phenomenal ageing potential, while the latter provides a flavor distinct from any other sweet wine. When blended with Harslevelu and Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, Furmint can produce some of the most complex and longest-living wines in the world.

As a varietal Furmint is remarkably versatile, too – depending on where it was made and who was at the helm, it can taste like a bright, crisp Grüner, a floral, off-dry Riesling, or a supple full-bodied Chardonnay. A dynamic acidity slices through every Furmint, regardless of style, and flavors of apples and wet tree bark are persistent.

The sweet Tokaji Aszú wine is made from individually picked botrytized grapes that are then mashed and soaked in dry wine or must. The resulting wine, after aging, is golden, extremely sweet (120-180 grams per liter) and has the potential to age indefinitely (when properly stored). To receive the Tokaji denotation, a wine can only contain the six native varieties of Furmint, Hárslevelü , Kabar, Kövérszölö, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály.

An Aszú is characterized by its amount of sugar, which is designated by its “Puttonyos.” This original measure of sugar was measured by the number of baskets of noble rot grapes or “puttonyos” that were added to a barrel of wine; the more that were added, the sweeter the wine. Originally there were 6 different levels, but today there are only 2 allowed levels. More specifically, three puttonyos indicates 25g/l – the lowest sugar content and thus the least sweet of the Aszú wine styles. Each additional puttonyo thereafter indicates an increase of 5g/l of residual sugar. Eszencia is the very sweetest Aszú style. With around 800 g/l of residual sugar, it is so sweet, and so low in alcohol (about 5 percent ABV) that it hardly qualifies as wine at all. It is the undiluted, barely fermented juice of botrytized berries. Unsurprisingly, Eszencia is one of the rarest and most expensive wines on earth.

The Eger region is in the north, about 86 miles northeast of Budapest. Grapes grow natively on Eger’s rolling terrain; in fact, scientists actually identified a 30 million-year-old wine grape fossil in Eger, among the modern-day vineyards.

Top Wines are native blends Egri Bikavér (red blend), and Egri Csillag or “Star of Eger” (white blend). Eger is best known for its Egri Bikavér wine, popularly known as ‘Bull’s Blood’. Several grapes go into the robust Bikavér blend ,, with Kadarka and Kékfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch) typically the majority components. Good-quality Bikaver is deep, purple-crimson in color, with softish tannins a middleweight body and plummy, spicy aromatics. Although Tokaji remains unrivaled as Hungary’s most famous wine overall, ‘Bull’s Blood’ is surely the country’s most famous red.

 

  1. Information about the Wines

Wine #1. Rudi Pichler ‘Terrassen’ Smaragd Gruner Veltliner, 2023

The producer: at Weingut Rudi Pichler, the Pichler family has been growing vines in Wösendorf since 1731. The estate consists of 15 hectares of vineyards spread between Wösendorf, Joching, and Weisenkirchen, where south-facing terraces look down at the Danube River. Currently vineyards produce 65% Grüner Veltliner, 30% Riesling and some Pinot Blanc and Red Veltliner. Rudi Pichler is among the elite growers of the Wachau, producing wines of precision, power, and longevity. The producer belongs to the prestigious Vinea Wachau and vinifies under the strict parameters of their codex.

The wine:

Grape: 100% Grüner Veltliner

Viticulture: 1800 vines/acre; 22-40 years old; yield 1.2-2.16 tons/acre.

Vinification: fermented in stainless steel talks for 14 days at 64-72oF

Aging: 5 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling plus 1 month in the bottle.

Alcohol: 13.5% vol.

Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L

Tasting notes: Soil characteristics of many small, excellent sites come together so nicely in this wine: fine minerality, subtle fruit flavors, tobacco spices and peppery elegance. Drinking window: 2025-2036

“The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen is a blend of the five to seven top sites in the Wachau region, known for its high-quality vineyards. Yeast and white miso come imbued with citrus and russet pear peel on the nose. The palate brings on the full savoriness of that yeasty core on a surprisingly light-footed body. This is all texture and fluidity, with deep notions of white miso, juicy russet pear flesh and peel and a salty, peppery savor. The finish tapers back to lemon and has a lasting echo of pepper. The 2023 is slender for a Smaragd, yet really concentrated. (Bone-dry)”. (Vinous media).

Wine #2. Disznókő, Tokaji Dry Furmint, 2023

The producer: The Disznóko estate was classified as a first growth property at the time of the initial classification in 1772 and remains so today. The estate consists of a single tract of land that spread over 250 acres at the southwest entrance of the Tokaji region. Four of the approved noble grape varieties are planted in this single vineyard – Furmint, Harslevelu, Zeta and Sagamuskotal. The estate makes a range of wines, from five and six ‘puttonyos’ wines and an Aszú Eszencia, to a floral, dry wine made of Furmint. https://www.disznoko.hu/

The wine:

Grapes: 100% Furmint

Viticulture: Manual harvest of fully ripened, healthy bunches in small boxes of 20 kg (44 lbs) between the 13th and 22nd of September. Many different plots of the Disznókő vineyard were harvested and vinified separately.

Vinification: The fruits of the different plots were vinified separately. The grapes were full bunch pressed (directly without destemming), allowed to settle for a night and then fermented in stainless steel vats at a temperature controlled between 16-18°C. No malolactic fermentation.

Aging: The different lots were blended in November and the wine was aged on its fine lees in stainless steel vats for 4 months. Bottled in March 2024 in 750 ml Tokaji bottle with glass stoppers.

Alcohol:  12.78% vol.

Tasting Profile: Light straw yellow robe with green reflex. Fresh, fruity nose with almond, white peach, stone fruits, pear aromas together with some floral and vegetal hints like hay. On the palate, it reveals a crisp acidity with saline notes. This wine is medium bodied, offering a pleasant texture, with a good mineral finish. Serve this wine at 10°C. Drink young to enjoy the full expression of its fresh fruit and minerality.

“Very attractive nose with notes of dried lemons, orange blossoms, dried herbs, and crushed stones. Medium-bodied, textural and crisp on a lively, energetic palate. I like the tension and crunchiness. Refreshing, citrusy finish.”

Food pairings: Disznókő Tokaji Dry Furmint 2023 is an exceedingly drinkable wine perfect for so many occasions; quenching your thirst on a hot summer’s day, the perfect companion to light meals, great for an evening with friends around the barbecue. Excellent as an aperitif, with fish and light sauces (e.g. herring) or seafood (superb with oysters and caviar), as well as poultry, game birds and salads.

Wine #3: Paul Achs, Blaufrankisch, Heideboden, 2021

The producer: Weingut Paul Achs is in Gols is located 60 km southeast of Vienna, near the Hungarian border in the Northern Burgenland. The vineyards are located in and around Gols. 25 hectares, spread over 40 plots, each with individual potential. This wide range gives us a variety of soils and small climates – ideal basics to create exciting, authentic wines year after year. The entire spectrum of wines includes 14 red, 6 white wines and 2 pomace brandies. Their wines are characterized by considerable shelf life. Even wines from the 90s show ( with good storage conditions ) a convincing fruit depth. But even at a young age, our wines offer drinking pleasure. The red wines are all aged in wooden barrels – from 225 L gripping barrique up to the large, 3,400 liter oak barrel. https://www.paul-achs.at/

The wine:

Grapes: 100 % Baufränkisch

Vineyards: grown on permeable, calcareous gravel and black earth soils of the Heideboden region. These soils lend the wine richness and a warm texture. Some of the grapes also come from cooler hillside vineyards with gravel and volcanic soils, which contribute freshness and elegant fruit.

Vinification: fermented in steel tanks and then aged for 12 months in used barriques.

Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting profile: This Blaufränkisch shows ‘notes of crushed blackberry and plum sauce form the core of this wine, with graphite flowing underneath. The silky palate swathes the sinewy tannins and carries mouthwatering acidity.

“Very youthful, slightly tobacco nose of black berries and cherries with a little laurel. Cool, clear, youthful, tart blackberry fruit, smoky and tobacco notes, a hint of pepper and juniper again, some meaty juice on the palate, toasty traces, fine sandy, youthful tannin, a little Brazil nut in the background, good persistence, some acid bite, good to very good, again cool and tart-juicy finish.”(Wein-plus wine reviews)

Food pairings: the wine’s flavor profile is characterized by fruit and minerality, and it pairs perfectly with dishes such as homemade pâté, game terrines, braised dishes, dark poultry, steak, or grilled meat, as well as semi-hard and hard cheeses.

Wine #4:  Erich Sattler Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2021

The producer: The winery: Weingut Erich Sattler has its vineyards located in the Neusiedlersee wine-growing district in Burgenland, on a unique gravel bank. It was formed over two million years ago from the side arms of the ancient Danube and stretches today over more than 5 km. Our vineyards around the small municipality of Tadten are mainly planted with St. Laurent and Zweigelt vines. Some of the vines are well over forty years old. https://erichsattler.at/

The wine: For Austria, the 2021 vintage has been described as phenomenal.

Grape: 100% Zweigelt

Alcohol: 13% vol.

Residual sugar: 1g/L

Tasting Notes: The 2021 Erich Sattler Zweigelt from Burgenland, Austria, is a red wine made from the Zweigelt grape, which is one of Austria’s most widely planted red grapes. It exhibits bright red fruit flavors such as cherry and raspberry, often complemented by hints of spice and a touch of pepper. The wine is medium-bodied with moderate tannins and refreshing acidity, making it versatile and food-friendly.

“Vibrant bright purple on the pour. Surprisingly light on the palate (my first zweigelt). Moderately tannic. With about an hour of air…a little bitterness on the palate, a lightly savory. Oak is showing. Pepper is coming through a lot more with air (at about 75 minutes now). Much more savory approaching the two hour mark. Dominant note is white pepper. Would likely confuse this with Syrah blind. Also, some vegetal notes building on the nose. A great food wine. Perfect for a summer barbeque.” (Eric Wright at Cellar-tracker).

Wine #5: Disznókő ‘1413’ Tokaji Ēdes Szamorodni, 2021

The producer: (see wine #2). Acclaimed as one of the three most favorable sites of Aszú in Tokaji. Morning autumn mists and warm breezes ensure optimal conditions for noble rot.

The Wine:

100% Furmint

Vinification: For about half of the lots composing the final blend the clusters were destemmed, followed by a short skin contact before pressing. In the case of the other lots, the grapes were full bunch pressed without destemming. 90% of the lots fermented in stainless steel vats and 10% fermented in barrels of two-three wines.

Maturing: aged for 12 months in the traditional underground cellar of Tokaj, in oak barrels of two-three wines, with a capacity of 225 litres. Bottled in September 2023.

Alcohol: 12.4% vol.

Residual sugar: 141 g/L

Tasting notes: Pale to rich gold. When young, you will discover wildflowers, fresh and candied fruits (apricot, citrus, tropical notes) as well as almonds and woody spices. As it ages in the bottle, Disznókö 1413 Tokaji develops notes of honey and dried fruits while the crisp acidity gently softens. This is a wine with finesse and balance. The barrel-ageing gives balance and complexity to the fruit of this deliciously fresh wine, giving it marvelous flexibility for pairing with many dishes.

 

  1. CV Members Rating 

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 14 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Excellent. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Erich Sattler Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2021 was the Best Wine, and also the Best Buy.

 

References:

https://winefolly.com/wine-regions/hungary/#winestoexplore

https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/hungarian-wines-for-the-win/

https://www.rudipichler.at/en/our-wines/gruener-veltliner-terrassen-smaragd/

 


About Us    –   Tasting Meeting Synopses  – Annual Tasting Programs  – Membership and Operations – Talks About Wine-Members Corner  –   Club Members   –  Moments Some Club del Vino History in Pictures


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Laughing Matter:

Vinho não faz penalty, so faz falta!

Wine does commit penalties, it just may be missing!

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Tasting No 277 – May 27, 2025 Pinot Noir from around the world

Tasting No 277 – May 27, 2025

Pinot Noir from around the world

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore Pinot Noir wines from different regions of the world.  We will taste Pinot Noirs from France, the United States, New Zealand and Chile.  This is an open tasting.

Presenters:  Yacsire Cutler and Orlando Mason

Participants: TBA

 

These are the wines

  1. Wairau River Pinot Noir, New Zealand, 2022
  2. Antonin Rodet, Pinot Noir ‘Grande Selection’, France, 2023
  3. Schug Carneros Pinot Noir, California, 2022
  4. Leyda Lot 21, Pinot Noir, Chile, 2018

The Menu

  • Roasted beet with goat cheese
  • Raviolis stuffed with mushrooms 
  • Grilled trout with mixed vegetables.
  • Dessert, coffee or tea.

  1. Brief History of Pinot Noir around the world

Pinot Noir is one of the oldest and most celebrated grape varieties in the world, known for producing elegant, complex red wines. It is believed to be over 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest known grape varieties still in use. It likely originated in northeastern France, possibly around Burgundy, and there are records of being cultivated during the first century A.D.  The name “Pinot” comes from the French word “pin” (pine), referencing the grape’s tightly clustered, pinecone-shaped bunches. “Noir” means black, referring to the color of the grape.

The Burgundy region of France is therefore considered the birthplace of Pinot Noir. Monks in the Middle Ages, were crucial in refining the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy, identifying the best vineyard sites. Burgundy’s deep association with the concept of terroir—how soil, climate, and vineyard location affect the wine—was largely shaped by Pinot Noir cultivation.

Pinot Noir has been know as known to be a “temperamental” grape. It prefers cool to moderate climates, heat cam mute its finesse and freshness. It is difficult to cultivate and vinify consistently due to its delicacy and susceptibility to mutation and rot. Because of its thin skin it doesn’t stand up as well to high heat, too much sun, hail or too much rain as hardier, thicker-skinned grapes; in addition, the grapes in the clusters are close together, making them more prone to mildew and rot in very damp conditions. Its prone to millerandage (uneven grape development).  Pinot noir is highly reflective of the soil and climate where it is grown (especially in Burgundy.).

Pinot Noir primary flavors are red fruit – cherry, strawberry, raspberry. It often shows earthy, floral, and herbal tones—such as mushroom, rose petal, forest floor, tea leaves, clove and cinnamon.  Younger Pinot is bright and juicy.  Aged Pinot Noir: Can develop complex flavors like dried fruit, leather, game, and truffle.

Pinot Noir wines are generally light to medium bodied, low to medium tannins with a silky or soft texture, and naturally high acidity with helps it age and pair well with food. Alcohol content is typically moderate (12-14.5%.) Its color is pale to medium ruby or garnet. It is one of the lightest red wines in appearance.

In the 19th–20th centuries Pinot Noir began spreading to other parts of the world. Globally, Pinot Noir is one of the major red grape varieties, but it ranks behind more widely planted and robust varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In total plantation, Pinot Noir is about 1/3 of Cabernet Sauvignon and less than Merlot, Tempranillo and Shiraz.

 Notable Pinot Noir producing countries are:

  • France (especially Burgundy) – benchmark quality, limited volume;
  • USA (especially Oregon, California) – growing in prestige;
  • Germany – surprisingly one of the largest producers (Spätburgunder);
  • New Zealand – notable for vibrant, fruit-driven styles; and
  • Chile – rising production in coastal cool zones.

 

  1. Regions of production

The wines to be tasted come from France (Burgundy), United States (Carneros), New Zealand (Central Oyago), and Chile (Valle Leyda.).

  FRANCE – The real turning point for Pinot Noir came during the Middle Ages, when Cistercian and Benedictine monks in Burgundy began carefully cultivating and documenting vineyards. These monks were meticulous in observing how different vineyard plots—called “climats”—produced different expressions of the same grape. Their efforts laid the foundation for Burgundy’s terroir-based winemaking tradition.  In 1395, Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy famously issued a decree banning the lower-quality Gamay grape from Burgundy in favor of “the noble Pinot”. This marked the first formal attempt to protect and promote Pinot Noir, reinforcing its prestige in the region.  Through the centuries, Burgundy’s reputation grew, especially among royalty, clergy, and nobility. Pinot Noir from top vineyards like Romanée-Conti became legendary. The 18th and 19th centuries saw continued refinement, and the Napoleonic inheritance laws later led to the fragmentation of vineyard ownership—contributing to the complexity of Burgundy’s wine labels today.  In the 20th century, the AOC system was introduced to formalize vineyard classifications. Pinot Noir became almost exclusively linked with red Burgundy wines.

Two things make Pinot Noir from France unique: soil and climate. In terms of the soil, going back around 200 million years, France was part of a large, tropical sea. Over time, the seabed became limestone soils. These soils are behind the trademark zesty minerality of French wines, especially pinot noir. Because France has a cooler climate than other pinot noir wine regions, French pinot noir is delicate and light-bodied. Rather than bold, heavy flavours, you’ll catch the citrusy taste of orange peel and the fruity taste of cherry. You might also notice a smooth and sweet chocolate flavour.

  UNITED STATES – Pinot Noir was first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th century, primarily by European immigrants bringing vine cuttings with them. Initial plantings were scattered and experimental, and the grape didn’t gain immediate traction due to its sensitivity to climate and soil.  In the early 20th century, California saw some of the earliest serious attempts at cultivating Pinot Noir, particularly in areas like the Santa Cruz Mountains and later in Sonoma and Napa. However, it wasn’t until after Prohibition that efforts really picked up again. A major turning point came in the 1960s when planting Pinot Noir began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  By the 1980s and 1990s, both Oregon and cooler parts of California were producing world-class Pinot Noir. The grape became known for its elegance, complexity, and expression of terroir. American Pinot Noirs gained further credibility on the world stage after Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve placed well in international tastings. Pinot Noir is now one of the most prestigious and sought-after varietals in the U.S. Willamette Valley is widely considered one of the top Pinot-producing regions in the world, and California continues to innovate with diverse styles ranging from bold to delicate.  Stylistically, these wines range from types similar to Burgundy’s (leaner, with firmer tannins and earth and mineral accents) to plusher and riper versions with rich dark fruit and spice notes, and styles in between  

Specifically Carneros covers an area of 90 square miles on the southernmost foothills of the Mayacamas and Sonoma mountain ranges. This location sits between America’s two most famous wine-producing regions – the eastern half in Napa, the western half in Sonoma. In the 1880’s the Stanly Ranch in Carneros, with over 300 acres, was one of the largest vineyards in California and had significant Pinot Noir plantings..  The topography here – and the cool, windy mesoclimate it creates – is intimately connected with the style of wine produced here. This gives Carneros a much cooler, wetter climate than that found further north in the sheltered valleys. Carneros Pinot Noir has traditionally been lighter and tighter than those from other Californian regions, with notes of berries and herbs, rather than anything deeper and more opulent.

   NEW ZEALAND – The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is relatively young, but it’s a story of rapid rise and global acclaim. In just a few decades, New Zealand has established itself as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the Southern Hemisphere, known for purity, elegance, and vibrant fruit.  The earliest vine plantings in New Zealand go back to the 1800s, brought by European settlers, but it didn’t catch on due to lack of wine infrastructure, limited viticultural knowledge, and inappropriate vineyard sites. It is only in the 1970s, that the modern New Zealand wine industry began to take shape, particularly in regions like Martinborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago, where the first producer recognized that the cool, dry climate and free-draining soils mirrored conditions in Burgundy The current trends are: greater focus on single-vineyard bottlings and sustainable practices; use of native yeasts, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal intervention; and increasing comparisons to Burgundy, especially from Martinborough and Central Otago.

New Zealand Pinot Noirs are noted for bright cherry and berry fruit, silky tannins, balanced acidity and transparency of terroir. In particular Central Otago, with its high-altitude vineyards, continental climate, and dramatic temperature swings, is considered ideal for Pinot Noir wines that are characterized as bold, structured and fruit forward.

  CHILE –  Pinot Noir likely arrived in Chile in the 19th century, brought by European settlers. However, it was not widely planted or seriously cultivated mainly because Chile’s central wine regions were too warm for Pinot to thrive. In the 1990s, Chilean winemakers began exploring coastal regions, realizing the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and Humboldt Current could support delicate grapes like Pinot Noir. Regions like Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley (especially Leyda), Limarí Valley, Bio-Bío and Itata in the south began to produce higher-quality, cooler-climate Pinot Noir.  Winemakers started to use better clones of Pinot Noir (especially Dijon clones from Burgundy); implement lower yields and more precise vineyard management; and experiment with oak aging, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention techniques.

The Leyda Valley region enjoys the effects of the cold Humboldt Current of the Pacific Ocean. The first vignerons appeared in Leyda in the late 1990s, attracted by a terroir that was almost perfect for the production of premium grapes, save for the lack of an abundant source of water for irrigation. A significant investment by a wine-producing family in the area saw the construction of a pipeline five miles (8km) long to channel water from the Maipo River in the south.The close proximity to the coast is what is driving growers to Leyda. Cold ocean breezes and morning fog moderate the overall temperatures, and the valley is therefore significantly cooler than its low latitude might suggest. These cool temperatures are complemented by warm sunshine during the long growing season, letting grapes ripen fully and develop complexity while still retaining acidity.  Leyda Valley’s soils are largely clay and loam over a granite base with moderate drainage. These low-fertility soils are good for the production of premium grapes because they make the vines struggle for survival. This results in vines that put all their energy into producing small, concentrated grapes rather than leafy foliage. Wines produced from these grapes tend to be structured and complex and Leyda Pinot Noir wines style is bright red fruit, floral, and elegant.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Wairau River Pinot Noir, New Zealand, 2022

The producer: Wairau River Wines is a family-owned winery located in the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s South Island. Established in 1978 by Phil and Chris Rose, the winery has grown to become one of Marlborough’s most respected producers, known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

The wine

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 13%

Tasting Profile:

Aromas: Notes of ripe cherry, pomegranate, and red berry, complemented by hints of white pepper, anise, and a subtle earthy undertone.

Palate: Bright and fresh with concentrated flavors of raspberry and red cherry. The wine exhibits a soft, generous mouthfeel, with delicate wild berry nuances and a touch of savory complexity. Fine, elegant tannins provide structure and depth, leading to a lingering finish. 

Oak Influence: Aged for nine months in French barriques, imparting subtle toasty oak characteristics that enhance the wine’s complexity without overpowering the fruit profile. 

The 2022 Wairau River Pinot Noir from Marlborough, New Zealand, is a vibrant and expressive red wine that showcases the distinctive characteristics of the region’s cool-climate terroir.

Wine #2. Antonin Rodet, Pinot Noir ‘Grande Selection’, France, 2023

The producer: Antonin Rodet is a historic wine producer and négociant based in Mercurey, in the Côte Chalonnaise region of Burgundy, France. Founded in 1875 by Antoine Rodet, the house has been instrumental in promoting the wines of southern Burgundy, particularly those from Mercurey.

The wine

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir.

Vinification: The mechanically harvested grapes went through a pre-fermentary maceration period giving brighter color and fresh fruity aromas to the wine. After that 4-days period, the plots were vinified separately with a long fermentation of at least 3 weeks. The tank fermentation process ended with a post-fermentary maceration of 7 days at hot temperature to refine the tannins. The wine was then aged for 4 months on fine lees, under wood for a quarter to bring a subtle structure and in stainless steel tanks to keep the fruit and freshness of the grape.

Tasting Profile:

Appearance: Bright garnet red.

Aromas: Delicate notes of cherry and coffee, complemented by subtle toasted nuances.

Palate: Fruity and appealing, with flavors of chocolate and a hint of menthol. The wine is medium-bodied, featuring silky tannins and a long finish with assorted fruit flavors and a fine touch of oak. 

Accolades:

  • Silver Medal: Global Pinot Noir Masters, March 2024.
  • Bronze Medal: International Wine & Spirit Competition, May 2024.
  • Bronze Medal: International Wine Challenge, May 2024.

Wine #3: Schug Carneros Pinot Noir, California, 2022

The producer: Schug Carneros Estate Winery is a family-owned winery situated in the Carneros regiom of Sonoma County, California. Founded in 1980 by German-born winemaker Walter Schug, the estate is renowned for its European-style Pinot  Noir and Chardonnay wines. 

The wine

Grapes: 100 % Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 14%

The classic Carneros region Pinot Noir offers a wide range of flavors and aromas, intyhe tradition of the finest red Burgundies of France. “Clonal diversity” is achieved by carefully blending several vineyard lots, each retaining its own unique clonal signature in the blend.

Tasting profile:

The result is a complex wine with a rich bouquet of cherries, berries and hints of spicy new oak. It has flavors reminiscent of black cherry, currant and strawberry, followed by a rich, spicy texture and a long silky finish.

Wine#4:  Leyda, Lot 21 Pinot Noir, Chile, 2018

The producer: Viña Leyda is a Chilean winery located in the Leyda Valley, approximately 90 kilometers west of Santiago.  Renowned for its cool coastal climate, the Leyda Valley benefits from the Humboldt Current, which brings cold ocean breezes that moderate temperatures, allowing for a slow and balanced grape ripening process.

Viña Leyda emphasizes minimal intervention in both vineyard and cellar practices to authentically express the character of its coastal terroir. The winery employs sustainable viticulture methods and prefers fermenting in concrete tanks, casks, and stainless steel over extensive oak aging. This approach preserves the wines’ freshness, minerality, and elegance – hallmarks of their style .

The wine:

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 13.5%

Soils: The soils are mostly made up of clay and loam, with a granite base.

Wine making: Early harvests is implemented to guarantee a fresh-fruit profile of herbal character with low alcohol. Gentle vinification is carried out, avoiding over extraction in reds. Little barrel aging is used, with a preference for casks, concrete tanks, and stainless steel. 

Tasting Notes:  This wine presents a ruby red hue with floral and fresh red fruit aromas, incluidas cherry, redcurrant, and raspberry. Subtle notes of mushrooms and earthy tones add complexity. On the palate, it is bright and juicy. The wine features soft and silky tannins, contributing to its elegant mouthfeel. The balance between acidity and fruitiness provides a refreshing and lingering finish. 

Accolades: The Lot 21 Pinot Noir is recognized for its elegance and depth.  It was featured in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 in 2023.

 

  1. CV Members Rating (TBA after the tasting)

 

References:

https://michelegargiulo.com/blog/history-of-pinot-noir

https://wine-searcher.com/regions-leyda-valley

Pinot noir – Wikipedia

https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/the-king-of-burgundy

www.wine-searcher.com/regions-Carneros

https://winespectator.com

www.winehistorytours.com/the-rise-of-pinot-noir-in-Chile

www.princeofpinot.com

www.princeofpinot.com/article/787

www.princeofpinot.com/article/214

A Complete Guide To Pinot Noir – Pinot Days

 


About Us    –   Tasting Meeting Synopses  – Annual Tasting Programs  – Membership and Operations – Talks About Wine-Members Corner  –   Club Members   –  Moments Some Club del Vino History in Pictures


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Que Vinazo

 

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