Tasting No 264 – April 30, 2024 – Wines from Piedmont

Tasting No 264 – April 30, 2024 – Wines from Piedmont

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 

  1. Tasting overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore the wines from the Piedmont area, particularly the famous Barolo and Barbera wines.

Type of tasting: open.

Presenters: José Brakarz, Raimundo Arroio and Marcia Bebiano Simões

The Wines:

  1. Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis, 2022
  2. D. Vajra Barolo Albe, 2019
  3. Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella, 2020
  4. Paolo Scavino Barolo Prapo, 2019.
  1. Menu

  • Portobello al Forno
  • Linguini Frutti di Mare
  • Beef Medallions with Brown Sauce and Sauteed Potatoes
  • Dessert, coffee, tea.
  1. The Piedmont Region

Located in the northwestern corner of Italy, Piedmont (“Foot of the Mountain”) is a region renowned for its exceptional wines. It is a picturesque area with a rich viticultural heritage.

Terroir and Production Areas:  Piedmont, the heart of Italian winemaking, has a diverse landscape— comprising hills (30.3%), plains (26.4%), and mountains (43.3%)—which creates a unique terroir that influences its wines.  

The region has a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers, along with significant temperature variations, which allows for late-ripening varieties like Nebbiolo to thrive.  Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of the Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piemonte’s villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero.

Distinct Production Areas: of Italy’s 20 major wine regions, Piedmont ranks 6th in production volume. It is known for high quality and produces more DOCG designated wines than any other region. In Piedmont there are a total of 59 subregions (including Barolo, Gabiano, Barbera d’Asti, etc.) and the name of these subregions is listed prominently on Piedmont wine labels (often noted alongside the variety). These are some key production areas:

Langhe: Nestled between the provinces of Cuneo and Asti, the Langhe region produces some of Piedmont’s most iconic red wines:

  • Barolo DOCG: Known as the “King of Wines,” Barolo is made from Nebbiolo grapes. It boasts complex flavors, robust tannins, and aging potential.
  • Barbaresco DOCG: Another Nebbiolo-based gem, Barbaresco offers elegance, floral notes, and a slightly earlier maturation than Barolo.
  • Dolcetto d’Alba and Barbera d’Alba: These approachable reds showcase fruity profiles and pair wonderfully with local cuisine.

Roero: East of the Tanaro River, Roero is famous for its white wine:

  • Roero Arneis DOCG: Made from the indigenous Arneis grape, this crisp and aromatic white wine is a delightful companion to seafood and appetizers.

Monferrato: The largest production area in Piedmont, Monferrato spans the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. Notable wine appellations include:

    • Barbera d’Asti DOCG: A lively red with bright acidity, perfect for everyday enjoyment.
    • Gattinara DOCG: A Nebbiolo-based wine from the northern part of Piedmont.
  • Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG: A rare red with floral and spicy notes.
  • Asti Spumante DOCG: A sweet sparkling wine made from Moscato grapes.
  • Gavi DOCG: Crisp and mineral-driven white wine crafted from Cortese grapes.
  • Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC: An intriguing white wine with depth and character.

Other gems include:

  • Alta Langa DOCG: Its sparkling wines compete with the best in the world.
  • Nizza DOCG: Produces robust Barbera wines.
  • Terre Alfieri DOCG: Known for its reds and whites.
  • Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC: An ancient grape variety making a comeback.

Piedmont’s wines reflect centuries of tradition, dedication, and a deep connection to the land. Whether you savor a bold Barolo or a refreshing Arneis, each bottle tells a story of passion and craftsmanship!

History of Viticulture in Piedmont.

The roots of Piedmont’s winemaking tradition can be traced back to ancient times. The Celtic-Ligurian peoples who inhabited the region around the 6th century BC, were the early vintners, tending to vineyards and nurturing the grapevines. These ancient inhabitants recognized the potential of Piedmonts’ soil and climate for wine production. The Romans cultivated native vines in this fertile land, which they aptly called Oenotrua (meaning “land of vines”).

As the Middle Ages unfolded, attention shifted toward defining the most suitable wine production areas. Barbesino, found its roots in the Monferrato region. Meanwhile, Nebbiolo vines took hold in Turin and Upper Piedmont. These early choices laid the groundwork for the iconic wines that would emerge centuries later.

Birth of Barolo and Barbaresco: In the 19th century, ‘Piemontese’ red wines began to evolve into their modern expressions: Barolo, based on Nebbiolo grapes, came into existence around 1830. The Marquises Falletti and Count Camillo Benso di Cavour played pivotal roles in its creation. Not long after, Barbaresco—another magnificent expression of Nebbiolo—was born. Domizio Cavazza, founder of the Cantine Sociali di Barbaresco, contributed to its legacy.

Challenges and Renaissance: The 20th century brought challenges – World Wars, rural exodus, and migration to the Americas – which led to a decline in viticulture. In the 1980s, the region experienced a renaissance. Inspired by Burgundy and Bordeaux, winemakers embraced modern techniques, aiming for more elegant and balanced wines.  

With its proximity to France, Piedmont has been influenced by French viticulture, particularly from regions like Burgundy.  This influence is evident today in the varietal styles of most Piedmonts’ wines, which often emphasize single grape varieties with minimal blending.

  1. Piedmont’s Main Wine Varieties (DOCG)

White and Sparkling Wines 

Although Piedmont is best known for its red varieties, there are some significant white wines produced in the region, such as: Gavi DOCG and the Roero Arneis DOCG (present in this tasting), the “Derthona” Colli Tortonesi DOCG obtained from Timorasso grapes; the Asti DOCG sparkling wine, Moscato d’Asti DOCG and the Arbaluce di Caluso DOCG.   Out of the many other denominations in the Piedmont area, the Roero DOCG wines, also made with Nebbiolo grapes, has a completely different identity, with its distinguishing aromatic characteristics given by geographical and climatic conditions, as well as vinification techniques. The geographical position and soil composition distinguishes Roero from its counterparts, as it is located on the left bank of the Tanaro River, while Barolo and Barbaresco are on the right margin. Usually, the left margin is more arid, and its soil has high limestone clay and sand. This composition gives the grapes a particular mineral terroir, highly appreciated for with wines.

BAROLO

Among the ‘Piemontese’ DOCG wines, Barolo is certainly the most iconic. Barolo was born in the Langhe region in the 19th Century, from the vineyards of the Marquis Tancredi Falletti and Giulia Colbert Falletti of Barolo thanks to Paolo Francesco Staglieno, who produced the estate’s first dry version Nebbiolo in 1830 and thus became the pioneer of ‘Piemontese’ enology.

Barolo immediately became a noble and appreciated wine, so much so that it became the spokesman of Piedmont and the Savoy in all the courts of Europe, also thanks to the support of Count Camillo Benso di Cavour and King Vittorio Emanuele II.

This iconic red wine is produced in the Province of Cuneo, near Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba and in part of the municipalities of La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Roddi, Verduno, Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Novello and Grinzane Cavour.

Barolo is produced from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and requires a minimum aging of 38 months (18 of which in wood barrels). It can add the mention “Riserva” after 5 years of aging. It is considered one of the longest-lived wines in the world, thanks also to the strong tannic component of Nebbiolo, and is expressed differently according to the areas, crus and vintages.

Generally, it appears as a garnet red wine, with intense and elegant aromas of flowers and ripe fruit, often with tertiary notes of spices and tar. In the mouth it has great intensity and persistence, all accompanied by a great acid-tannic balance.

Perfect in combination with well-structured dishes, Barolo is also an excellent meditation wine – a wine to be appreciated on its own – especially if dated and of a good vintage.

BARBARESCO 

Among the ‘Piemontese’ DOCG wines, Barbaresco is one of the most famous and appreciated in the world. Barbaresco DOCG is a ‘Piemontese’ red wine typical of the Langhe, produced in the province of Cuneo in the municipalities of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and in the hamlet of “San Rocco” in the Province of Alba. The terroir of this DOCG is typically hilly with calcareous-clayey soils where Nebbiolo is raised by the espalier with Guyot pruning.

Barbaresco is another great expression of the Nebbiolo grape.  It is produced from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and requires aging for 26 months, nine of which in barrels, and for at least 50 months to bear the mention “Riserva”.

Barbaresco, like Barolo, is a wine that fully reflects the terroir and expresses itself differently depending on the production area. It generally appears as a garnet red wine tending to orange with aging, with very intense and characteristic aromas. The taste is dry and harmonious, with balsamic tertiary notes, tar and roasting that develop with aging.

It is considered a roast wine par excellence, but it is also excellent in combination with typical ‘Piemontese’ dishes, and also with seasoned foods, mushrooms and truffles.

 

  1. The Wines for Today’s Tasting

Wine #1. Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis, 2022

The Producer: Roero Arneis 2022 is a fine white wine produced by Bruno Giacosa.

The wine:

  • Vintage – 2022
  • 100% Arneis
  • Roero Arneis DOCG
  • The vines are quite vigorous, with strong, straight shoots. The grapes ripen in late September.
  • Vinification: Stainless steel vats
  • Length of fermentation: 25-30 days
  • Refinement: 4 months in stainless steel vats + 1 month in bottle
  • 4 months in steel barrels.
  • 5 % APV

The Arneis grape variety is native to Piedmont region. This grape performs exceptionally well on the sandy hills of Roero, northwest of Alba. It is a very interesting expression of this often-underrated Piemontese grape variety, capable of expressing itself, with great elegance and minerality. 

The Arneis grape vines thrive throughout the Roero region and on the hills along the right bank of the Tanaro River.

Historical Journey: Arneis grapes were cultivated in Roero since the 15th century, but the wine made from them gained prominence in the 1970s. It saved Roero Arneis from possible disappearance.

Tasting notes: Straw Yellow, aromas of fresh fruit, citrus, and often hints of almonds. On the palate, it is fresh, full-bodied, with mineral notes and a persistent finish. The mineral-rich soils contribute to its bone-dry character and fresh acidity.

 

Wine #2. Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella 2020

Producer:  Azienda Agricola PAITIN di Pasquero Elia

The wine:

  • 2020
  • 100% Nebbiolo
  • Barbaresco DOCG
  • Organic with the sole use of sulfur and copper natural compound, manual or mechanic
  • Vinification and Aging. Grapes are pressed and destemmed, then fermented and macerate for 3 to 6 weeks in stainless steel. Then it finishes the maceration with the ancient technique of the submerged cap. Aged in wood barrels for around 18 to 24 months. Barrels’ volume varies between 25 to 50 hectoliters, made of Slavonian and Austrian oak.
  • Alcohol: 14.5%

Serraboella is the most famous Cru in the Southern Neive. A long hill exposed to West that gently bends towards South getting steeper. On this very side: the steepest and the warmest, this Barbaresco has a unique expression. The Paitin 2020 Barbaresco Serraboella is ethereal and luminous in appearance; however, the aromas offer strength and a bold character. This is an impeccably elegant wine.  

Tasting notes. Ethereal and luminous, the wine presents itself with grace; the initial impression is of vibrant berry fruit. Beyond the fruit, there are savory notes of licorice and iris root. An intriguing touch of teakwood or mahogany adds depth. Impeccably elegant, it offers a harmonious interplay of power and volume.

Only 10,000 bottles of this exceptional Barbaresco were made.

The Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella 2020 embodies the essence of Piedmont’s winemaking heritage—a symphony of flavors and elegance.

 

 

Wine #3. T G.D. Vajra, Barolo ‘Albe’ 2019

The Producer: G.D. Vajra. The Vajra family has farmed Bricco delle Viole, the highest cru in Comune di Barolo, since the 1880s. At the young age of 15, Aldo Vajra embraced the dream to revive his family legacy. Displaying a vision and commitment belying his young age he took over the estate in 1968, turning a new page.

The wine:

  • 2019
  • 100% Nebbiolo
  • Barolo DOCG
  • Grapes cultivated in high elevation vineyards. This wine comes from three vineyards with different exposures to the sun: southeast, south and southwest, catching all morning sun rises. This combination is reflected in the freshness of the wine, complexity of flavors and relatively high tannins.
  • Vinification and Aging: Grapes are harvested by hand with a rigorous grape selection process and then, in the winery, the best berries are re-selected. Fermentation is carried out at controlled temperature with a long maceration; as tradition dictates, the wine is aged for 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.
  • 14.5% APV.

Tasting notes. The 2019 Barolo Albe features a classic blood red color, with a very lively core. Taste of red berries, raspberries, and red currants also display a layer of sweet spices. Aromas of fresh cherries, wild strawberries, rose- buds, wild herbs, underbrush. On the palate it showcases the tart red fruits Nebbiolo is known for, but at a higher gear followed by more savory flavors finishing with well-integrated tannins and vibrant acidity. The mouthfeel opens with a good balance, lots of energy and refined tannins, and the aftertaste echoes the aromatics with lingering complexity.

 

Wine #4. Paolo Scavino, Barolo ‘Prapò’, 2019

The Producer: Paolo Scavino (founded in 1921).

The wine:

  • 2019
  • 100% Nebbiolo
  • Barolo DOCG
  • Viticulture and aging: Fruit harvested by hand. Skin maceration for 12 days, followed by a 20–30-day fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeast.
  • Aged in a combination of French barrique and large casks for 2 years prior to bottling.
  • Alcohol: 14.5% APV.

Tasting Notes. The 2019 Paolo Scavino “Prapò” Barolo is a captivating wine from the Barolo region. With the black label, this wine draws its fruit from Serralunga d’Alba, or the village that usually reveals the most structured and muscular expressions of Nebbiolo. Indeed, it is a deep wine characterized by an intense garnet red color, the texture is dense, rich and its tannins have a full and round grain. The nose of this Barolo reveals intriguing notes of dark fruit like figs and black cherries, spicy notes such as nutmeg and black pepper.  In the mouth, the Barolo Prapò is assertive and powerful, yet maintains an elegant balance.

It exemplifies rigor and consistency, showcasing the best of the Serralunga terroir. It is full- bodied and approachable, with refined, ripe tannins that gracefully embrace the pure fruitiness.

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

 

References:

https://www.wine.com

Https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/piedmont-wine-map-of-italy

https://www.italysfinestwines.it/en/piedmont-wines/

https://www.paitin.it

https://www.mtouton.com/products/italy/piemonte/roero/5256-2021/bruno-giacosa-roero-arneis

https://www.decantalo.com/us/en/g-d-vajra-barolo-albe.html

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Jairo Sanchez 1941 2024

Jairo Sanchez 1941 2024

 

Jairo Sanchez  (1941-2024) our much appreciated Club del Vino Technical Director is not with us anymore. Here a few statements of Club del Vino members wrote about this beloved member. Follows the obituary printed in the Washington Post.

Maria Claudia Perazza:  Comparto con uds. la tristeza por el fallecimiento de nuestro querido amigo Jairo, nuestro director técnico emérito, siempre atento y disponible para ayudarnos con los temas del club. Vamos extrañarlo mucho.

Cecilio Augusto Berndsen:  Que lastima. Meu primeiro amigo no BID. Marcou sua participação no nosso Club del Vino pelo vasto conhecimento e pela sempre gentil e alegre presença. Nossa perda de uma pessoa que marcou seu caminhar pelo profissionalismo e amavel liderança.

José Brakarz:  Que gran Perdida la de Jairo, nuestro amigo y decano del club.  Lo conocía desde los tiempos del BID y siempre ha sido una excelente figura humana, además de buen profesional.  Lo vamos a extrañar inmensamente.

Jaime Estupiñan: Sentimos mucho el fallecimiento de nuestro querido amigo  y compañero del Club. Siempre se distinguió por su amabilidad y caballerosidad. Siempre estuvo atento a ofrecer sus conocimientos y comentarios para engrandecer nuestro Club del Vino. Que en paz descanse.

Ricardo Zavaleta: Sientiendo mucho el falecimiento de un buen amigo y caballero como lo era Jairo. Es una gran perdida para nuestro CV pue el siempe fue un excelente colaborador. Que en az descanse.

Michle Fryer:  What sad, unexpected news.  Jairo always brought a smile to the table and had kind words for all. He will be missed.

Cristian Santelices: Una pena terrible la partida de nuestro querido socio miembro de la Comisión Directiva del CV. Sus contribuciones en los temas técnicos de las distintas presentaciones siempre fueron excelentes. Jairo fue un gran colaborador, siempre con una nota elegante y de gran clase. Lo extrañaremos. Nuestros sentido pésame para su familia.

Juan Luis Colaicovo: Triste noticia. Acompañe la presencia de Jairo desde su incorporacion al CV hace unos 15 años. Muy grata presencia y muy buen amigo. Dedicado al tema del vino hizo buenas contribuciones al club.  Será muy recordado.

Laura Bocalandro:  So sorry to hear this news! And unexpected.

Gabriela Vega:  Excelente persona. Qué pena

Raimundo Aroio:  Realmente una tristísima noticia

Ricardo Santiago:  Jairo um gentleman querido por todos. Descanse em Paz!

Jorge Requena:  ¡Qué triste noticia! Es una gran pérdida para nuestro Club.  Lo conocí en el BID donde trabajamos juntos en varias oportunidades. Fue un excelente colega y un gran amigo.  Extrañaré mucho sus consejos y su amena conversación. Lamento no estar allá para acompañar a la familia en su despedida.

Sergio Ardila:  What a terrible news. He was such a gentleman, and an exemplary IDB employee. What a loss.

Ginger Smart:  I’m so sorry to learn of the loss of Jairo Sanchez. He’s been a very supportive and active member of the wine club for many years.

John Redwood:  This is very sad news indeed! Not only was dear Jairo a true gentleman as others have said and a longtime and very knowledgeable member of the club, he was also one of the members both Lucia and I have known longest from our days at the IDB, dating back to the mid-1980s in my case. He will be sorely missed. Please convey our sincerest condolences to his family on our behalf.

German Zincke Una gran pérdida para el Club y una mayor pérdida de un amigo querido
por todos.  Sus conocimientos técnicos sobre el vino fueron un valioso aporte para
todos nosotros.  Gran compañero, amable y comunicativo, ganó nuestro afecto y para
siempre estará en nuestro corazón. Jairo, descansa en paz.
Mis condolencias a su familia.

Marcello Averbug:  Notícia muy triste. Jairo era el tipo de persona cuya amistad siempre ha sido valiosa y fuente de afecto.

Jorge Claro: Es una gran pena perder a un amigo y colega tan querido como Jairo. Más aún cuando se trata de uno como él, con quien tuve la oportunidad de compartir momentos muy gratos, tanto en el BID donde trabajamos juntos por varios años, como posteriormente como amigo. No quiero ni pensar como será la pena de su familia y sobre todo de Aura, su señora. Es de lamentar que hemos perdido a amigos tan queridos como Jairo, Alfonso, Mario y otros en un espacio de tiempo tan corto. Se linda personalidad y sabio consejo se extrañará enormemente en las hermosas y entretenidas reuniones del Club del Vino.

Pedro Turina:  Con sorpresa y profundo pesar recibo en Chile la noticia del fallecimiento de Jairo, un conocedor profundo de los vinos y sus cualidades y amable contertulio, magnífica persona. Estaré de regreso para asistir a  misa en su memoria.

Jairo Sanchez Obituary

W. Post

Jairo Enrique Sánchez, age 82 of Washington, DC, formerly of Chiquinquirá, Colombia, passed away on Thursday, April 11, 2024. Born on December 21, 1941, Jairo was a devoted son to Ramón Sánchez (deceased) and Soledad (Méndez) de Sánchez (deceased), and brother to Óscar Ramon, Carlos Efraín (deceased), Mery Soledad (deceased), Daniel Alfonso, Martha Lucía, Álvaro Arturo (deceased), Clara Imelda, Cesar Guillermo, and Claudia Consuelo Sánchez.
Jairo had an endless curiosity and passion for learning that led him to the Universidad Nacional de Colombia where he earned his bachelor’s

degree in Civil Engineering and Universidad de Los Andes where he received a master’s degree in Economics. He lived his life grounded in his core values of education and generosity. In his professional life, he flourished working his entire career at the Inter-American Development Bank. There he held various leadership roles which brought him to live across multiple Latin American Countries including México, Ecuador, and Perú before settling in Washington, DC.
Jairo was a loving husband to his wife of 50 years, Aura; and a devoted father to his late son Jairo Enrique Jr., and daughter Ana Maria. He is survived by his wife Aura; his daughter Ana Maria, son-in-law Mark Keller; and granddaughter Pia Sánchez Keller. Jairo’s unstoppable energy, love of life, and love for people around him left a mark on all those who knew him. His open heart and mind will live on through his family and friends.
A memorial mass will be held at Church of the Little Flower in Bethesda, MD on Wednesday, April 24 at 12 noon.

Published by The Washington Post on Apr. 21, 2024.

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Tasting No 263 – March 26, 2024 – Wines from Sardinia

Tasting No 263 – March 26, 2024 – Wines from Sardinia

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

 

The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the Island of Sardinia, Italy

Type of tasting: Open/hybrid/blind

Presenter: Sergio Ardila

Participants:

S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; J. García; N. Marzella; A and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; L. Uechi; G. Veja; and G.
Zincke.

 These are the wines:

  1. Pala ‘Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna’, 2022
  2. Pala ‘Cannonau di Sardegna’ Riserva, 2020
  3. Cantine Argiolas ‘Turriga Isola Dei Nuraghi’, 2017
  4. Agricola Punica ‘Barrua Isola Dei Nuraghi’, 2019.
  1. Menu

  • Cream of asparagus
  • Raviolis in cream sauce
  • Grilled NY steak
  • Dessert, coffee
  1. Wine production in Sardinia

Sardinia, 150 miles (240km) off the west coast of mainland Italy, is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, with a total population of 1.7 million in 2020 (Italian National Institute of Statistics). Covering roughly 9300 square miles, it is almost three times the size of French-owned Corsica, its immediate neighbor to the north, and only slightly smaller than Italy’s other major island, Sicily.

Sardinia boasts a rich viticultural history with traditions distinct from the mainland. Influenced by Spanish and French viticulture practices, Sardinian wines offer a unique blend of indigenous grapes and international varieties. Blessed with a warm Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and stunning coastal landscapes, Sardinia presents a treasure trove for wine lovers. 

Over the centuries, Sardinia has belonged to various empires and kingdoms, which is reflected in its place names, architecture, languages and dialects, and its unique portfolio of wine grapes.

Since the mid-18th Century, Sardinia has been one of Italy’s five autonomous regions (the others being Sicily, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige and the Aosta Valley), but its separation from the mainland has led to a culture and identity somewhat removed from the Italian mainstream. This is reflected in the Sardinian relationship with wine: it is much less culturally and historically engrained there than in the mainland regions. Wine production and consumption on any scale has developed only in the past few centuries. Viticulture is a minority enterprise in Sardinia, despite generous financial incentives from the government.

In the wine world, Sardinia is best known for red wines made from Cannonau (or Grenache) and white wines made from Vermentino, the main grape varieties produced here. The region makes twice as much red wine as white.

In terms of terroir, the combination of hills and plains, coastal regions and inland areas offers useful diversity of topography and mesoclimates. To further these benefits, the available soils and bedrocks vary from granite, limestone and sandstone to mineral-rich clays and free-draining sands and gravels.

Located between 38 and 41 degrees North, the island lies at the southern edge of European viniculture, but thanks to the cooling effects of the Mediterranean, the maritime climate here is more forgiving than in other regions at this latitude (e.g. Greece and Turkey).  

Sardinia’s wine production has fluctuated considerably from year to year, and 2022 was at its 10-year average of 684,000 hl, coming off 26,700 ha (66,000 acres) of vines .

Key characteristics of Sardinian wines are:

  • Powerful Reds: Cannonau leads the way with its full body, ripe fruit character, and hints of spice;
  • Aromatic Whites: Vermentino shines with its crisp acidity, citrus, and floral aromas; and
  • Indigenous Treasures: Nuragus, Monica, and other local grapes, which offer unique flavors.
  1. The grape varietals and denominations

In terms of grape varieties, the portfolio of varieties planted in Sardinian vineyards bears little resemblance to those in any other Italian wine region. The closest mainland wine regions to Sardinia are Tuscany and Lazio, and yet the key varieties used in these two (Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Barbera, Trebbiano) are not found in the island’s vineyards.

Instead, one finds varieties of French and Spanish origin, exemplified by Grenache (called Cannonau here), Carignan (and its distinct clonal variants Bovale di Spagna and Bovale Grande) and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The most “Italian” varieties here are Malvasia and Vermentino, but even Vermentino can only just be considered Italian, being more widely planted on Corsica and southern France – often under the name Rolle – than in its homeland, Liguria. Muscat Blanc (Moscato Bianco), ubiquitous all around the Mediterranean, further contributes to the pan-Mediterranean feel of Sardinian viniculture.

Aside from the better-known grape varieties mentioned above, the island makes use of several obscure varieties, including Torbato, Semidano, Niederra, Nuragus, Monica and Nasco. The latter three are showcased in their own variety-specific DOCs, all from Cagliari.

The Italian love of complex bureaucracy is clearly visible in Sardinia, which has more DOC and IGT titles than Calabria and Basilicata combined, despite having the lowest wine production per hectare of any Italian wine region. It has one DOCG, 17 DOCs, and 15 IGPs.

The majority of Sardinian vineyards lie on the western side of the island, which is also where most of its location-specific DOCs are found. They line the west coast, running from south to north: Carignano del Sulcis, Vernaccia di Oristano, Malvasia di Bosa, and Alghero.

Even the large Cagliari DOC, which covers a good proportion of the island’s southern half, is strongly biased towards the west coast. The exception to this westerly bias is Vermentino di Gallura, the island’s only DOCG, whose catchment area covers the island’s northeastern corner.

Nevertheless, the most familiar appellations to many drinkers are likely to be the five island-wide DOCs: Cannonau di Sardegna, Vermentino di Sardegna, Monica di Sardegna, Sardegna Semidano and Moscato di Sardegna.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Pala Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna, 2022

The Producer. Azienda Agricola Pala (or Pala estate) is a well-respected producer known for its diverse range of wines, from Vermentino, Cannonau, Malvasia, Sarda, Monica and Nuragus. The winery was founded in 1950 with the first harvest done by Salvatore Pala, coming from the grapes of his own vineyards in the Serdiana countryside with the idea to make some good wine to be sold. The white wine was made from Nuragus grapes, while the red was made from Monica and Pascale grapes. Pala owns six different vineyard areas with a total of 68 hectares currently under vine. Each vineyard is planted with varietals that are chosen according to the microclimate and soil type of the individual site. Pala practices organic farming in the vineyard and does not use chemical pesticides or fertilizers.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Varietal: 100% Vermentino
  • Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (regional)
  • Sandy and clayey-calcareous rich in pebbles, medium hill, 150/180 m. above sea level
  • Must obtained by the soft pressing of the grapes after a first clean and the addition of yeasts selected in our own vineyards, ferments in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature of 12° C.
  • The wine remains in contact with the fine lees for about five months, then it is bottled.
  • 13.5 %
  • Winemaker notes. Intense straw yellow colour with greenish tinges, brilliant. Intense, lingering aroma with vegetable and floral fragrances of maquis and summer fruits. Pleasant nose-palate harmony, warm and full of good depth and perky acidity, balanced.
  • Tasting review. Spiced and tropical character with notes of ripe mangoes, peach skins, honeysuckle and hints of marzipan. Medium- to full-bodied, creamy and dense with a concentration and richness to the fruit and a chalky, slightly phenolic finish (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).

 

Wine #2. Pala ‘Cannonau Riserva di Sardegna’DOC, 2020

The Wine

  • 2020
  • 100% Cannonau, single vineyard;
  • Cannonau di Sardegna DOC (regional);
  • Crabilis Vineyard in the hills of Serdiana;
  • Manual harvesting, maceration on the skins at controlled temperature for ten days; alcoholic fermentation followed by the malolactic one.
  • Refinement for twelve months in French oak barrels followed by three more months in stainless steel vats and four more months in bottle.
  • 14.5%
  • Pala Cannonau Riserva di Sardegna has received high ratings from critics. The wine has also won several awards, including a gold medal at the International Wine Challenge.
  • Winemaker notes. Ruby red, very dark, with intense notes of red berries, blackberry and red cherry together with fine spicy notes. Elegant with smooth tannins, full-bodied and a long finish. Delicious with grilled or braised meats, spicy food, and seasoned cheeses.
  • Tasting review. Wild strawberries, red plums, currants, licorice and orange peel on the nose. It’s juicy, round and spicy, with a medium body and succulent ripe red-berry fruit ( Suckling).

Wine #3. Cantine Argiolas ‘Turriga’, Isola Dei Nuraghi Rosso IGT, 2017

The Producer. Cantine Argiolas is widely regarded as the foremost wine estate on the island of Sardinia. It produces a large portfolio of award-winning wines, including this powerful, tannic, herbal noted Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, based on Cannonau from the rocky vineyard of the same name. The estate was founded and planted in 1938 by Antonio Argiolas, who is considered the father of modern winemaking in Sardinia. He died in 2009 at the age of 102, giving anecdotal weight to the idea that Sardinian wine is beneficial to longevity. Argiolas covers around 280 ha. of vineyards, divided across a handful of different estates in the gently rolling land to the north and east of the city of Cagliari. A wide range of varieties are grown in these vineyards, including the traditional Cannonau, Monica, Bovale Sardo (Graciano), Carignano, Vermentino and Malvasia Bianca, as well as several international ones. The Turriga Rosso is Argiolas’ flagship red wine, made from a blend of Cannonau, Carignano, Bovale Sardo, and Malvasia Nera grapes.

The Wine.

  • 2017
  • Cannonau, Carignano, Bovale Sardo, Malvasia Nera;
  • Isola dei Nuraghi IGT (covers the entire administrative region);
  • Careful selection of the grapes. Fermentation at controlled temperature 28- 32°C. Maceration for about 16-18 days with good use of the delestage technique;
  • aged for 18 to 24 months in new French oak barriques then bottle refinement for 12-14 months;
  • 14-14.5%;
  • Winemaker notes. The wine has a deep ruby color and a complex aroma of blackberries, cherries, spices, and tobacco. It is full-bodied and has a smooth, velvety texture. The flavors of blackberries, cherries, and spices are also present on the palate, along with hints of chocolate and vanilla. The wine has a long, lingering finish. This is a powerful and complex wine that is perfect for pairing with grilled meats, stews, and pasta dishes and aged pecorino. It is also a good wine to cellar for a few years. Best if served at 18-20o

 

Wine #4. Agricola Punica ‘Barrua’, Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT, 2019

The Producer. Agricola Punica (AgriPunica) is a joint venture between renowned Tuscan producer Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia) and Cantina di Santadi, founded in 2002. The winery has 170 ha. in the Basso Sulcis area. Currently it produces two quality reds based on Carignano del Sulcis with exceptional results and one excellent white. The estates fall within the Carignano del Sulcis DOC. However, the wines are made under the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT rules to give more options when it comes to blending. Barrua is AgriPunica’s award winning flagship red wine.

The Wine

  • 2019
  • 85% Carignano, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot.
  • Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT
  • The must ferments with the skins at a temperature between 25° and 28°C in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for about 15 days. Periodically pumped over to facilitate the extraction of the compounds present in the skins. Malolactic fermentation confers smoothness to the wine.
  • 18 months in French oak barrels (40% new), then rests in bottle for at least 6 months.
  • 14.5-15%
  • 2019 AgriPunica ‘Barrua’ has received high ratings from critics, and also won several awards, including a gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards

Winemaker notes: the quality of the red Sulcitane grapes, not only in terms of color, but also for the smoothness of its soluble compounds – from the tannins to the consistently low and elegant acidity and the smoothness of its main components. Its polyphenolic apparel is of a distinguishably sweet, extremely delicate, round tannin weave chromatically embroidered with refined anthocyanins. Color is lively, deep ruby-red. Complex scent of ripe red fruit (mainly black cherry), spices, notes of licorice and hints of myrtle. An elegant wine that shows an impeccable workmanship, with notes of sage and myrtle with aromas of ripe red fruits and pepper in a persistent and harmonious finish. Typically, the wine combines ripe red fruit with aromas of herbs and spices.

 

Sources’ References:

Wine-Searcher editorial · Last updated 16-Feb-2023

https://www.pala.it/en/wines/stellato-vermentino/

https://www.pala.it/en/wines/cannonau-riserva/

https://www.uritalianwines.com/turriga-2017-P1234.htm

https://www.kobrandwineandspirits.com/product/agricola_punica_barrua_isola_dei_nuraghi_igt/

 

  1. CV Members Rating

The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 16 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Cantine Argiolas ‘Turriga’ Isola dei Nuraghi, 2017 was rated the Best Wine. The white Pala
‘Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna’, 2022 the Best Buy.
The best buy among the reds was Pala,
‘Cannonau di Sardegna’ Riserva, 2020. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

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Just for Laughs

I miss my early years so much…
Ai que saudades da minha infância

 

 

.o0o.

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Tasting No 262 – February 27, 2024 – Wines from Sicily

Tasting No 262 – February 27, 2024 – Wines from Sicily

 Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Source: https://www.winetourism.com/wine-maps/#Wine-maps-of-Italian-wine-regions

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the Sicily in Italy. The tasting will include one white wine and three reds. All wines for this tasting are Denominazione di Origine Controllata (literally Controlled Designation of Origin) – a certification applied to Italian wines that have distinctive features of superior quality, determined by the grape varietal and the production area as well as the techniques for processing and aging.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters:     Clara Estrada and Jorge García

Participants:

S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; O. Mason; C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; L. Uechi; G. Zincke and Patricia Uribe Mallarino (guest).

These are the wines:

  1. Tornatore Etna Bianco 2019
  2. Tornatore Etna Rosso 2019.
  3. Tornatore Etna Rosso Pietrarizzo 2019.
  4. Cottanera Etna ‘Diciassettesalme’ Rosso 2019.

 

  1. Menu

  • Arancini (rice balls stuffed with ground beef)
  • Linguini with tomato and clams
  • Pork loin with herbs
  • Coffee and dessert
  1. The Sicily Region

Sicily has a warm Mediterranean climate, tons of sunshine, and lots of heat. The red and white wines are fresh, and high in acid. Let’s figure out how the terroir of Sicily helps create this exuberant tapestry.

Grapes planted at higher altitudes can produce fresher styles of wine because the grapes have more acid and fresher fruit flavors. Carricante, Catarratto and Nerello Mascalese all thrive at these higher altitudes, found throughout the island. The higher elevation means higher levels of aromas, fresh fruit flavors, lower alcohol levels, and higher levels of acid. That’s because for every 328 feet (100 m) in elevation, the temperature drops 1°F (0.6°C). And with some vineyards sitting above 3300 feet (1000 m), the average temperature can go from 22°C to 16°C. That’s like going from the Central Valley in California, to Willamette Valley in Oregon! The climate goes from really warm, to cool, pretty quickly.

 (https://sicily.guides.winefolly.com/terroir/)

The region benefits from Sicily’s ample sunshine, but Mt. Etna’s high elevation also provides greater rainfall, moderating breezes and cooler temperatures. Etna’s unique nature means soils, microclimates and exposures change dramatically from site to site, creating a panorama of characteristics and possibilities in the vineyards.

The wines are from the Etna DOC, which is a stunning wine appellation that covers the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. The appellation is famous for its unique volcanic terroir and distinctive wines.

 

  1. The grape varietals

ITALY, SICILY, ETNA: “THE BURGUNDY OF THE MEDITERRANEAN”

Carricante

The Etna Bianco is born from the skillful vinification of the white grape vines Carricante, cultivated in volcanic soils with a high vocation and arranged in terraces at an altitude of 650 meters above sea level, in the northern slope of the volcano. Straw yellow colored wine with light green shadow that offers mineral notes with menthol scents typical of high wines, green apple with primary aromas characteristic of the variety. (https://tornatorewine.com/vini/etna-bianco-tornatore/).

 Carricante is an ancient white wine grape variety from eastern Sicily. It is thought to have been growing on the volcanic slopes of Mt Etna for at least a thousand years. There are around 200 hectares (500 acres) of plantings on the island. Very few vines are found elsewhere. The grape’s synonyms are Catanese Bianco and Catarrato.

Carricante is the key grape behind white wines made under the Etna DOC title. It is required in all of the denomination’s white wines: 60 percent minimum in the standard Etna Bianco and 80 percent in Etna Bianco Superiore. The most common blending partner here is Catarratto, a variety for which Carricante is often confused.

The variety is known for its marked acidity, and the high yields which gave rise to its name (carica means “load” in Italian). The best examples come from vines grown in volcanic soils, at high altitude (Etna’s vineyards stretch up as high as 1,200 meters/3,940ft). Well-adapted to their environment, Carricante vines respond well to the high diurnal temperature variations that characterize the climate around Mt. Etna. The grapes ripen slowly and steadily throughout the long growing season, retaining their trademark high acidity well into September. If harvested too early, this acidity is all too apparent in the wine, and is sometimes countered by lees [1] contact and malolactic fermentation and/or partial barrel aging. In cooler seasons, Carricante grapes can still be seen on the vines into early October.

On the whole, Carricante wines offer a broad range of refreshing citrus aromas – anything from lemon and lime to grapefruit to orange – alongside cooling herbal notes such as mint and aniseed. An underlying mineral, slatey character is also to be found in the finest examples.

When aged in stainless steel and without lees contact, notes of tart green apple shine through – a searing reminder of the variety’s naturally high acidity. Weightier Carricante wines (particularly later-harvested examples) are complemented by honeyed hints and the creamy texture that results from lees contact.

Wine Folly calls the Carricante grape Sicily’s answer to dry Riesling . When tasting this grape, look for aromas of citrus, green apple, orange blossom, and peach, with mineral notes of crushed rocks and salty air. The tasting notes on the wine I tried mentioned white peach, orange peel, crushed thyme and subtle, smoky flavors that mix well with fresh and dried-herb notes. I was thrilled to read these notes, because I quickly picked up on the smokiness and dried herbs. Had I not had those notes, I wouldn’t have been able to name what I was experiencing. https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-989-carricante ; https://bettyswinemusings.com/what-a-treat-to-try-carricante/ ]

Nerello

Nerello comprises two varieties of red wine grapes grown primarily in Sicily and Sardinia.

  • Nerello Mascalese. It is named after the Mascali area in Catania where the grape is thought to have originated. It is grown mainly on the northeastern side of Sicily and is thought to be superior in quality to the Nerello Cappuccio. While it can be used for blending, the grape is often made into varietal wine. Recent DNA testing has confirmed that the variety is the offspring of Italy’s famous Sangiovese grape variety and Mantonico Bianco.
  • Nerello Cappuccio. It is widely used in the Etna DOC as a blending grape that adds color and alcohol to the wine. The grape is less prominent and used in smaller proportions, although it can contribute darker fruit flavours, more structure, and deeper colour to the final wine. This is the most common blending partner for Nerello Mascalese, being a small proportion of the blend.

The two varietiess have gained attention in recent years for their role in delivering high-quality, unique wines that reflect their volcanic terroir. Synonyms for the Nerello grapes are Niureddu and Negrello.

Nerello Mascalese is grown predominantly in Sicilia (91%) in an area of about 2,900 has. The area extends across the variable volcanic soils of the slopes of Mt. Etna at some of the highest vineyard altitudes in all of Europe—up to 3,300 feet. The plantings easily exceed the plantings of Nerello Cappuccio. A small portion of older vines predate the phylloxera epidemic of the 1880s Nerello Mascalese is one of Sicily’s most noble red varieties. It makes a beautifully aromatic, firm, cellar-worthy but pale-hued red often comparable to a fine Burgundy or Barbaresco. Nerello Mascalese takes its name from the black color of its grapes, nerello, and the Mascali plain between Mt. Etna and the coast where it is believed to have originated.

The organoleptic characteristics of the monovarietal Nerello Mascalese generally are a ruby red color, with subtle grenade tones; a strong fruity scent of red berry fruits, with slight floral shades, a spicy hint, and a delicate effusion of vanilla and tobacco, with a persistent trace of licorice; and a dry, tannic, persistent and harmonic taste, with a strong body. At sight, the wine seems surely more mature than it appears when smelled or tasted. Treating this vine variety in a traditional way, it can produce a wine presenting the above-described characteristics.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nerello https://www.bbr.com/grape-nr-nerello

https://www.wine.com/product/tornatore-etna-rosso-2019/912755#closePromoModal

https://italianwinecentral.com/variety/nerello-mascalese/

https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-1727-nerello-mascalese

  1. The Wines and Their Producers

The Producer #1. Azienda Agricola Tornatore

The Tornatore, one the oldest wine growing families on Mt. Etna, have lived in Sicily since 1680 and trace their Etna grape growing back to 1865. In 1910 the Grandfather Giuseppe built a house with a millstone in the district of Piano Fiera with adjacent 2 hectares of vineyards in addition to other two hectares on the North side of the Etna, in the district of Piano Felci at 1,000 m above sea level. That heritage and the Tornatore’s profound respect and understanding of the land is showcased in wines that capture the essence of Etna, balancing concentrated flavors, complexity, freshness and refinement.  The Tornatore’s Etna roots have long grounded them in the flavors and patterns of their region, and it was this knowledge that inspired Francesco Tornatore to found his family’s winery in the town of Castiglione di Sicilia in 2010, nearly a century and a half after his great grandfather first planted vineyards on Mt. Etna.

Tornatore blends artisan and modern winemaking to craft wines such as the Bianco and Rosso that display the full range of fruit and complex personality of Etna terroir, and single vineyard wines—Pietrarizzo with its high elevation and Trimarchisa with 40-year-old vines—that express the beauty and distinct character of their exceptional sites.

The winery lies in the northern side of Mount Etna, where the soils have volcanic origin and are derived from the disintegration of the masses of lava, ashes and lapilli. Generally, these soils are formed on site (native) or carried by rainwater which, in some flat areas on the slopes of the volcano, resulted in large black valleys, deep and very fertile. The climate on the northern side of the Etna is characterized by mild temperatures, reflecting the influence of the mountain reliefs from that side (Nebrodi). The result is a late maturing environment due to the exposure and the predominant altitude that promotes strong thermal excursions. The combination of soil, climate and the skill of the winemakers, have made the northern slope of Etna an ideal area for the production of high-quality wines.

The Company owns 110 hectares of which 60 hectares of vineyards, making the Tornatore’s vineyards one of the largest in the Etna DOC production area. Tornatore’s vineyards count several locations in different districts: among them the remarkable contrade (districts or parcels of vineyard land that have been known by recognized names for a long time) of Bragaseggi, Piano dei Daini, Zottorinotto, Pietrarizzo, Malpasso, Pietramarina, Torre Guarino, Carranco and Trimarchisa, all in the Castiglione di Sicilia Municipality. The altitude ranges from 550 to 700 meters above sea level and the age of the vineyards varies from 3 to 40 years for the Reds and 3 to 10 years for the Whites.

The winery’s vineyards have recently been reorganized in order to improve the quality standards, with particular attention to the the vineyards management. A high number of vines per hectare (approx. 6,000) has been maintained. The existing vines are Etna’s native in compliance with the rules of Etna DOC wine production, in particular Red Berry Nerello Mascalese and Nero Cappuccio and White Berry Carricante and Catarratto.

Harvest and winemaking: grape harvest is done by hand. Subsequently transported in special crates, the grapes are vinified maintaining high standards of quality, with maximum respect for tradition. The grapes are selected and processed manually to enhance the characteristics of each vineyard. Wines are aged in oak barrels located in a completely buried rooms, with insulation made of Etna basalt blocks arranged on walls and floor of the cellar in a workmanlike manner. 

The winery has the latest modern equipment with low environmental impact, maximum respect for the surroundings, including the use of renewable energy sources for its operation. (https://tornatorewine.com/company/?).

TheProducer #2. Cottanera.

The story of Cottanera starts with Francesco Cambria, who, in 1962 bought 100 hectares of vines and hazelnut groves near his birthplace in Randazzo. With the arrival of DOC status for Etna in 1968 and hazelnuts losing market share, he decided to focus on grape growing for bulk wine production, replanting the hazelnut groves to vines. In the late 1980s, Francesco’s son Guglielmo decided to build a winery to make his own wine, rather than selling the grapes, and he was quite successful selling it in demijohns to local consumers and restaurants. The initial success of these wines pushed Guglielmo to progress to quality wine production, so in the mid-1990s, he improved his father’s vineyards and embraced lower yields, and he labeled the first wines as Cottanera. In the mid-1990s the family started focusing on producing premium wines and launched the Cottanera label. Today Cottanera is one of the largest vineyards in Etna, at roughly 65 hectares, with vineyards located in five different parcels on the northern slope of Etna where most of the volcano’s best-known wineries are located. The business focuses on the Etna Rosso, Bianco and single parcel wines that are now gathering most of the attention and which have been known by recognized names for a long time.

 

6. The Wines

Wine #1. Tornatore Etna Bianco 2019

  • Year – 2019
  • Composition: 100% Carricante
  • 12.5 %
  • 4-6 months in steel and concrete tanks
  • Critical Acclaim, awards: Gold from the Sommeliers Choice Awards (2019 vintage)
  • Winemaker’s notes: Pale straw yellow with intense greenish reflections at the sight; pleasant hints of green apple, grapefruit, white peach and aromatic herbs, mark the nose of this wine which shows its true identity on the palate with a very pleasant flavor and freshness completed by an extraordinary minerality; exclusive notes that invite a second glass.
  • Critic notes. “The nose on this Etna white is like walking through a lavender field on a sunny afternoon—fresh and floral and warming—before blooming with more flowers, from lily of the valley to peach blossoms, and saline notes of sea air. The palate walks the same path through flower fields to the waterfront, salty and floral, with peach and pear notes as well, balancing depth and delicacy”. (Danielle Callegari – 91/100, Wine Enthusiast).

 

Wine #2. Tornatore Etna Rosso, 2019  

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal: 95% Nerello Mascalese; 5% Nerello Cappuccio
  • 13.5-14%
  • 6 months in big wood barrels and 3 months in bottle
  • Awards: Ranked among the top 10 wines from the region with respect to number of awards won: the 2019 vintage was awarded Gold from The TEXSOM International Wine Awards, and the 2017 vintage was awarded Gold from the Sommeliers Choice Awards.

(92 pts. Wine Spectator; 91 pts Wine Advocate)

  • Winemaker notes. “Ruby red with faint purple, typical of this variety which is not very rich in color. Clear hints of red berries, morello cherry and black cherry on the nose. The taste is characterized by its typical balanced tannins and a surprising fullness, flavor and persistence.”
  • Critic notes. “The Tornatore 2019 Etna Rosso is a blend of Nerello Mascarello with a 5% touch of Nerello Cappuccio added to give a bit more color to the wine. In fact, “Nerello” is a diminutive of the word “nero” (or “black”) and underlines the grape’s light appearance. This entry-level wine is aged in oak for eight months to show dark cherry, spice and blue flower. Fruit comes from young vines that are 10 years old. Drink: 2023-2027”. (91/100 pts. Monica Larner @ Wine Advocate)

 

Wine #3. Tornatore Etna Rosso, ‘Contrata Pietrarizzo’, 2019

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal: 100% Nerello Mascalese
  • 14-14.5%
  • One year+ in 25 hl. wood barrels and cement tanks; 3 months in bottle.
  • Winemaker notes. Ruby red, delicate and incredibly balanced on the nose, clear hints of red berries, flowers, perfectly integrated to a minerality and evolution worthy of a great wine. Great structure on the mouth with a surprising drinkability and elegance. Serving temperature 18 °C.
  • Critics notes. “A graceful, medium-bodied red, with bright acidity and fine, creamy tannins, which buoy a pleasing range of baked strawberry, star anise, graphite and red licorice notes. A subtle overtone of herbs and mineral pushes through and lingers on the lightly chewy finish. Drink now through 2032”.( 93 pts. Wine Spectator)
  • “Etna Rosso “Contrada Pietrarizzo” by Tornatore is a full-bodied and pleasent persistent red wine. The nose is fruity, rose spirit, elegant and mineral spices. On the palate it is juicy, balanced and soft, with tannins provided a pleasant persistence”. https://www.callmewine.com/en/etna-rosso-contrada-pietrarizzo-tornatore-2019-P43050.htm

Wine #4. Cottanera Etna ‘Diciassettesalme’ Rosso, 2019

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal: 100% Nerello Mascalese
  • 8 months in French oak barrels
  • 14%
  • Critic notes. “Aromas of French oak, toasted nuts and spearmint lead the nose. The aromas follow over to the linear palate along with coffee bean, licorice, salty notes and blood orange before close-grained tannins sneak in and dry out the close”. (Kerin O’Keefe” – 89/100, Wine Enthusiast).
  • 7.CV Members Rating 

The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 16 participants rated them from Mediocre to Excellent.

The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Tornatore ‘Etna Bianco’ DOC, 2019 and Cottanera ‘Etna Rosso Diciassettesalme’, 2019 were both rated the Best Wines and the Tornatore ‘Etna Bianco’, 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

.o0o.


Laughing matter:

*

.o0o.

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Tasting #261 – Jan 30, 2024 – Northern Italian Sparkling Wines

Tasting No 261  Jan 30, 2024 Northern Italian Sparkling Wines

Capri Ristorante  McLean VA

 

2024 Wine Tasting Calendar  < click here to the newest version of the calendar. 


 1. Tasting Overview

 

The main objective of this tasting is to explore different types and offerings of Northern Italian Sparkling Wines. The first tasting of the year will be of the best Italian Sparkling Wines and allow us to sample top sparkling wines in a variety of grapes, production methods, terroirs and acidity/sugar content. This should bring cheers with the bubbles and the new year.

 

Type of tasting: Open

Presenter: Laura Bocalandro

Participants:

S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; J.&amp;L. Redwood; R. Santiago; J. Sanchez; E. Silva; P. Turina; L. Uechi; R. Zavaleta.

Wines:

  1. Cantina della Volta, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Rosé Brut Spumante, DOC, 2017
  2. Ferrari, Sparkling Wine Brut, Trento DOC, NV
  3. Adriano Adami, Bosco di Gica, Prosecco Superiore, Valdobbiadene, DOCG, NV
  4. Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva, DOCG, 2014

 

  1. Menu (the wines will be served all at once)

  • Seafood Salad
  • Fettuccine with Aurora Sauce
  • Salmon Grille with broccoli and green beans
  • Dessert

 

  1. The Sparkling Wines of Northern Italy

The sparkling wines of northern Italy have a long tradition of producers, production methods and more recently quality controls and certifications.

Sparkling wines benefit from a series of  institutions that safeguard the production, designation and quality, as well as promote the different Italian sparkling wines. The Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta was created in 1990 and the Consorzio per la Tutela del Prosecco was established in 2009, shortly after the date on which Prosecco was recognized as a wine with a Controlled Designation of Origin. These Consortia aim to voluntarily associate winemakers, winemakers and sparkling wine producers to guarantee the development of the Denomination and compliance with the rules set out in the Production Regulations.

In addition, the concern for the certification of origin and quality control led to the creation in 1979 of the Federdoc, the National Confederation of Voluntary Consortia for the Protection of the Designations of the Italian Wines. This organization represents almost all the universe of the Italian Designations and their Consortia, and it supports them on an institutional, legal and legislative level. Federdoc: “the designation of origin” of Italian consortia.

Production methods:

There are two production methods for sparkling Italian wines: the Charmat/Martinotti method and the traditional method or metodo classico.

  1. Metodo Charmat: Primary and secondary fermentation in stainless steel, filtered into a tank and bottled. Also known as: Tank method, metodo Italiano, Martinotti method or autoclaves. Examples could be a Prosecco or a Lambrusco di Surbara.

It is used to produce spumante and frizzante sparkling wines with distinctive floral and fruity notes, through a natural second fermentation process in large, sealed tanks (autoclaves). Dr. Antonio Carpenè, one of the founding members of the Conegliano School of Winemaking, was the first person to use this method to produce sparkling Prosecco wine with the characteristics that are so well known today. Prior to this, the wines were produced using second fermentation in the bottle.The autoclave, or closed tank fermentation, was first invented by the French chemist Edme-Jules Maumené in 1852, adapted for commercial use by the Italian Federico Martinotti, and perfected for use with stainless steel by another Frenchman, Eugene Charmat, in 1907. The process of using a large tank for secondary fermentation is referred to as the Martinotti process in Italy and the Charmat process elsewhere.

2. Metodo classico: The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, with the wine resting on its yeast lees. Also known as: Traditional method, Méthode Champenoise, Méthode Traditionnelle. The main example in Italy is Franciacorta.

Under the metodo classico, the yeast that is in contact with the wine in the bottle during the second fermentation adds a wonderful flavor. This is called “autolysis” and the longer you leave the wine in contact with the yeast lees, the better, up to a point. Also, the bubbles, or perlage, in this fermentation process are finer and last longer in the glass.

The Prosecco: its origins date back at least 2000 years. It was known in Roman times as Pucino (1st century AD – Pliny the Elder). It originated as a still, dry wine produced near Trieste, taking its name from the village of Prosecco. The bubbles first appeared with second fermentation in bottles at the end of the 19th century and then in autoclaves (tanks) in the early 1900s. Today it is made in a very large area covering the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. Sparkling Prosecco was introduced to the US by Mionetto in 2000, and sales have since exploded.

Prosecco can be either still or sparkling. It can be made either using the Charmat/Martinotti process or the methode traditionelle (methode champenoise). The wines range in sweetness from Zero Dosage to Brut (0-12 g/L RS), Extra Dry (12-17 g/L RS), and Dry (17-32 g/L RS). Prosecco wines have become less sweet over time, and Brut (our wine) is about 40 percent of production. Prosecco is lightly effervescent with about 4 atmospheres of pressure, similar to French Cremant, compared to 6-7 for Champagne.

There are five quality levels of Prosecco. Major changes in the categories were introduced in 2009 with the creation of three DOCGs and the designation of Prosecco as a growing region rather than the name of the grape, which is now only referred to as the Glera grape.

The Glera grape is native to Northeastern Italy, and it is the traditional grape variety used for Prosecco. The native Glera grape must represent a minimum of 85% of all grapes used, and the Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Glera Lunga, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero grapes, vinified off the skins, may also be used up to 15% overall.

 

The Franciacorta: The sparkling wines of Franciacorta are frequently compared to premium cuvée of Champagne in terms of quality. They are made the same way (méthode champenoise), use the same grape varieties, employ reserve wines to blend across vintages, and do small scale fermentation of different vineyard plots that are later blended into the final cuvée. Unlike Champagne, most Franciacorta producers are also growers. An important part of the Franciacorta ethos is their respect for the environment while championing sustainability and high quality production.  The wines are “spectacularly good” and an alternative to other premium sparklers for holiday toasts.

The name Franciacorta most probably comes from the 1100s when the land was known as Francae Curtes, or land free of taxes where the first vines were cultivated. The Franciacorta is a young sparkling wine and it is relatively small with just 106 producers. Its international visibility is limited by the wine’s popularity in Italy, leaving little for the rest of the world. However, some 20 producers now export Franciacorta, giving those living outside Italy the opportunity to experience this delicious sparkling wine. Franciacorta sparkling wines are made from grapes cultivated in 19 communes located in the Province of Brescia, Lombardy. These are grown on hillsides located south of Lake Iseo, which was created by Europe’s last ice age. The glaciers that created the valley ending at Lake Iseo left moraines south of the lake and gave the vineyards of Franciacorta their glacial alluvial soils.

Since the first bottling in 1961, the quality of Franciacorta sparkling wines has impressively improved, in good part due to the creation of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta in 1990. The Consorzio has implemented rules delimiting the varieties grown (predominantly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), production methods (hand harvesting, bottle aging requirements), and yields (60 hectoliters/hectare), some of the lowest in the world. In addition, growers changed their trellising from the traditional pergola to Guyot and spurred cordon, reduced yields with low vigor rootstocks, and planted at higher densities (4-5 thousand vines/ha). These measures significantly improved the quality and reputation of the wines and, also, resulted in Franciacorta being given DOCG status in 1995. Currently, Franciacorta produces about 10 million bottles annually.

There principal producers of Franciacorta are:  Bellavista, Ca’ del Bosco, Enrico Gatti, Ferghettina, and Montenisa. And there are five types of sparkling Franciacorta:

  • Non-Vintage: Must be aged on the lees at least 18 months. (This is a higher threshold than Champagnes which require only a 12 month minimum).
  • Satèn: Non-vintage must be aged at least 24 months; usually 100% Chardonnay. The bottle pressure must be less than 5 atm.
  • Rosé: A minimum 35% Pinot Nero is required; the non-vintage rosé must be aged on the lees at least 24 months.
  • Millesimato: A vintage wine with at least 85% of the wine coming from the stated vintage; up to 15% can come from reserve wines. Must be aged at least 30 months.
  • Riserva: A Millesimato, Satèn or Rosé that spends at least 60 months on the lees in bottle.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1: Cantina della Volta, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Rosé Brut Spumante, DOC, 2017

100% Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes, cultivated on alluvial soil of the Secchia river in the heart of the Emilia Romagna region.

Selection of the best Sorbara grapes entirely gathered in small cases (15kg. max); manual harvesting in order to ensure that each grape remains whole, then softly pressed.

After remaining at least six months inside the tanks for maturation process, the wine receives selected yeasts, prior to being bottled. The bottles are then stored horizontally for the long re-fermentation process and maturation, at temperature constantly  kept at 12°C.

The following steps are remuage, disgorgement and liqueur d’expédition addition.

Dosage 5.5 g/L. ; Alcohol content is 12.5% by vol.

Producer notes: “Beautiful pale pink dress” covered by gentle, soft foam with fine, tiny and persistent perlage. At the nose, a magic sensation of full aromatic perfumes of raspberry and wild berry well combined with ancient rose and pomegranate tones, grapefruit, face powder. Perceivable acidity, balanced with good salty texture. Structured body, brightened by its unique “acid-savory” synergy, which enhances its floral scent. Elegant and persistent.”

“Red berry, violet and a whiff of brioche form the enticing nose on this lovely sparkler. Dry and savory, the elegant palate features pomegranate, orange zest and bread crust alongside fresh acidity and an extremely refined perlage.” (Wine Enthusiast– 92 pts.).

 

Wine #2: Ferrari, Sparkling Wine Brut, Trento DOC, NV (Italy Modern)

The Producer: Italy’s celebrated Ferrari winery located just outside the city of Trento has been producing this NV TrentoDoc Brut sparkling wine since 1902. All of their wines are TrentDoc produced exclusively from grapes grown in Trentino at high altitudes using sustainable farming methods.

Ferrari Trento is managed by the grandchildren of Bruno Lunelli who bought the estate in 1952 from Giulio Ferrari. Since 2021 the house of Ferrari Trento are the podium sponsors of the F1.

The vineyards include communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi, with S.E. and S.W. exposure the slopes of the mountains of Trentino at an altitude between 200 and 900m over sea level. The climatic variation helps this wine with the cold streams from the Dolomites and the mild temperatures of Lake Garda, thus the grapes develop a higher acidity and aromatic complexity.

The wine: This Ferrari Trento DOC is produced by the metodo classico with more than a hundred years of history. It  is produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes with a minimum stay on lees for at least 15 months, which extends to 24 for the Millesimato, and 36 for the Riserva. Our wine has 12.5% alcohol/volume and between 6-12 RS/L sugar residue.

Tasting notes: This wine is a luminous sparkler of pronounced finesse, made with 100% Chardonnay grapes. It is straw yellow with slight green reflections in color. Clean and balanced in taste, with a slight and pleasant finish of ripe fruit and a hint of bread-crust. Aromas of white spring flowers, white orchard fruit and a whiff of brioche lead the way. On the crisp palate, an elegant perlage (bubbles) accompanies creamy yellow apple, pear and lemon drop.

Its straightforward and confident bouquet delivers a clear and precise message of good cheer and easy-drinking appeal. This is the quintessential Italian aperitivo wine. Perfectly served as an aperitif or with lighter dishes, especially seafood.

 

Wine #3: Adriano Adami, Bosco di Gica, Prosecco Superiore, Valdobbiadene, DOCG, NV

The Producer: Adriano Adami, the producer of our Prosecco Superiore, has been making Prosecco since 1933. The Bosco di Gica denomination  comes from the old name of the area where the family had its first vineyards. For over 90 years Adami has produced only Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG and Prosecco DOC Treviso in its various types and expressions, both traditional and more modern, linked to the diversity of each single hill. They are Prosecchi specialists whose first single vineyard selection in 1933 is still the benchmark for the Prosecco today. Adami now produces 750,000 bottles with grapes from 50 hectares of vineyards.

Milan Fashion Week has adopted this Prosecco as its official sparkling wine.

The Wine: This sparkling wine comes from the appellation known as the Cornegiano Valdobbiadene region, which includes the provinces of Treviso, Venice, Vicenza, Padua, Belluno, Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste and Udine. The land is alluvial in origin and has mainly clay-loam soil, rich in minerals and micronutrients, with a southern exposure and an altitude of 180-300 m above the sea level.

Our wine is made by the Martinotti/Charmat method discussed above. It contains 7-10 RS/L and 11% alcohol by volume. The bottle label includes the Conegliano Valdobbiadene seal with an identification of origin and quality guarantee (DOCG). This label guarantees total compliance with the official product specification, with quality also certified through application of the Government Identification mark (band).

 

Wine #4: Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva, DOCG, 2014

The Producer:  The tiny appellation of Franciacorta was originally created in 1968, Ca’ del Bosco’s first vintage. Ca’ del Bosco is in the top tier of Franciacorta and Maurizio Zanella (owner family) is a perfectionist where nothing is left to chance; its wines are a masterpiece of precision.

In 1988 this Franciacorta took the name of the founder’s mother, Anna Maria Clementi, and became a Zero Dosage sparkling wine to exalt the wine’s purity and integrity.

The Wine: This Franciacorta is produced following the metodo classico.

A blend of 76% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 9% Pinot Bianco, it was fermented in small oak casks for six months and matured on the lees for eight long years. This 2014 vintage wine was disgorged in the winter 2021-2022.

12.8% per volume alcohol; zero dosage with a minimum amount of sugar residue (0-3g/L SR).

The bouquet is immediately beautiful with baked apple, brioche, pastry cream and something a little spicy, like a pinch of saffron, that gives extra pop. It shows a mid-weight mouthfeel with a whole other set of almond and bitter lemon flavors. This elegant Franciacorta manages a careful dance between nose and palate.” (95 pts. Wine Advocate)

Sparkling Wines of Northern Italy
Comparing Tasted Wines  

    1. CV Members Rating: 

The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 14 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional.
The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva, DOCG, 2014 was rated the Best
Wine . Adriano Adami, Bosco di Gica, Prosecco Supperiore, Valdobbiadene, DOCG, NV the Best Buy.
The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.


 

Sources/References: These notes draw heavily from some of the following sources.

Franciacorta/ Italy’s Luxury Sparkling Wines Review – International Wine Review.

International Wine Review. Report #14 The World of Sparkling Wines and Champagne.

10 of the best Italian sparkling wines, and best prosecco brands (italybest.com)

The Sparkling Wines of Italy | Sparkling Winos

A guide to Italy’s sparkling wines | The Wine Society

https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/sparkling-italian-wine/
Home – Prosecco.it — Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG

Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC | Il segreto sta nell’essere geniali

Consorzio tutela del Franciacorta, Strada del Franciacorta

Consorzio dell’Asti DOCG

https://i-winereview.com/blog/index.php/2017/11/13/prosecco-prosecco-superiore-cartizze-incredible-values-from-the-best-producers/

https://wine.com

https://Vino.com

https://ferrari.com

https://adamiprosecco.com

https://cadelbosco.com

https://cantinadellavolta.com

.o0o.

Italiano Vero

L’italiano       Toto Cutugno
Lasciatemi cantare
Con la chitarra in mano
Lasciatemi cantare
Sono un italiano
Buongiorno Italia, gli spaghetti al dente
E un partigiano come presidente
Con l’autoradio sempre nella mano destra
Un canarino sopra la finestra
Buongiorno Italia con i tuoi artisti
Con troppa America sui manifesti
Con le canzoni, con amore, con il cuore
Con più donne sempre meno suore
Buongiorno Italia, buongiorno Maria
Con gli occhi pieni di malinconia
Buongiorno Dio
Lo sai che ci sono anch’io
Lasciatemi cantare
Con la chitarra in mano
Lasciatemi cantare
Una canzone piano piano
Lasciatemi cantare
Perché ne sono fiero
Sono un italiano
Un italiano vero
Buongiorno Italia che non si spaventa
Con la crema da barba alla menta
Con un vestito gessato sul blu
E la moviola la domenica in TV
Buongiorno Italia col caffè ristretto
Le calze nuove nel primo cassetto
Con la bandiera in tintoria
E una Seicento giù di carrozzeria
Buongiorno Italia, buongiorno Maria
Con gli occhi pieni di malinconia
Buongiorno Dio
Lo sai che ci sono anch’io
Lasciatemi cantare
Con la chitarra in mano
Lasciatemi cantare
Una canzone piano piano
Lasciatemi cantare
Perché ne sono fiero
Sono un italiano
Un italiano vero
Lasciatemi cantare
Con la chitarra in mano
Lasciatemi cantare
Una canzone piano piano
Lasciatemi cantare
Perché ne sono fiero
Sono un italiano
Un italiano vero
See translation
Songwriters: Salvatore Cutugno, Cristiano Minellono.
.o0o.
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Club del Vino 2024 Wine Tasting Program

Club del Vino 2024 Wine Tasting Program

Rediscovering the Wines of Italy

 

2024 Wine Tasting Calendar  < click here to the newest version of the calendar. 
Also available bellow. 

General criteria

  1. The wine tasting program for 2024 will continue to deepen our learning of the wine regions, varietals, styles and blends of one specific country. In this context, the program will focus on the world of Italian wines in-depth, aiming to highlight lesser-known grape varieties and regions, their diverse climates, soils, and topography. The program will also review the ancient history behind different wine production techniques and showcase well-known producers and smaller family-run businesses that value both tradition and innovation.
  2. Club del Vino – CV –  members will present wines that differ from previous program selections to ensure the program is distinctive and unique. The wines to be presented should be available in the Washington area or through online purchase sites.
  3. As a reference, the wines to be selected shall have an average qualification of 90+ by reputable wine critics.
  4. The maximum cost for a set of four wines to taste is $240.
  5. The members of the CV shall select a month and a topic of their choice by December 12, 2023. Each session may accommodate a maximum of three presenters. This document provides  bellow a tasting schedule and a list of possible topics  in selecting a theme.
  6. Throughout the year, members of the CV can propose additional activities, such as visits to wineries and tastings, to expand the annual program.
  7. The Technical Director and members of the Steering Committee are available to assist members in selecting topics and wines.

The wine tasting Program for 2024 comprises these criteria, the informational text bellow suggestes topics and calendar of tastings.

 

General Information About the 2024 Wine Tasting Program of the Club del Vino, Washington DC

 This provides guidance for CV members in selecting regions, wine varieties, and appellations of origin, as well as topics to consider when proposing a tasting session.

Italian Wine Production

The rich history of Italy with wine reveals that the practice dates back thousands of years, even before the arrival of the Phoenician, Etruscan, and Greek settlers. These groups were already producing wine in Italy before the Romans established their own vineyards. The Romans, however, played a significant role in expanding the viticultural area of Italy by introducing efficient viticultural and winemaking methods.

The expansion of Italy’s wine production began to unravel in the first half of the 20th century due to wars and political misadventures. However, in the 1980s, Italy’s economic fortunes rose and brought the wine trade with it. Since then, the quality of Italian wines has multiplied, and they have gained international fame. First, Barolo became the new luxury wine god, then Amarone Della Valpolicella, followed by the Super Tuscans. Italy’s wine industry was on the right track once again. Italian wine is beloved by large swaths of people in America, particularly in the coastal stretch from Massachusetts to Delaware, where over ten million Italian Americans live.

Italy was the largest wine producer in the world until this year, with a total area of 702,000 hectares devoted to vineyard cultivation and an annual average production of 49 million hectoliters of wine. Italian wine is produced in every region of the country and is exported worldwide. In 2022, Italy accounted for 19.3 percent of global wine production, making it the leader ahead of France (17.7 percent) and Spain (13.8 percent). Italians are also big wine consumers, averaging 42 liters per capita per year, which places them fifth in the world in terms of wine consumption.

Variety of Italian Wine Grapes

Italy has been the top wine-producing country in the world (in terms of volume) since 2014. It is well-known both for its huge wine production, and also, as home to the largest number of grape varietals in the world. Despite France’s reputation as a wine-producing nation, it only uses 35 to 40 varietals commercially across all appellations. On the other hand, in Italy the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry recognizes over 350 different grape varieties that are used commercially, which is about 10 times more than the number used in France. Italian winemakers and grape growers have access to a vast array of wine grapes that can satisfy the curiosity of any wine lover. They use various options to create unique and flavorful wine styles from north to south.

Italy is home to many grape varieties that are popularly recognized as native Italian varieties. Some examples are Nebbiolo, which is used for Barolo and Barbaresco, Sangiovese, famous in Tuscany and other regions, and Glera, used for making Prosecco. There are families of grape varieties that all require their individual lines. The likes of Malvasia (12 distinct varieties) and Lambrusco (13 separate, distinct varieties) certainly add up to the numbers.

Few wine grape varieties are genuinely indigenous species to Italy if we go back even further. The spread of the Roman Empire and the trading of Greeks and Phoenicians brought to Italy grape varietals from across Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. But arguably, many of these grapes found their feet and true home in Italy, so we continue to refer to them as Italian grapes varieties. There are hundreds of these, and those interested can find a very good list of them HERE.

 

Italian Wine Classification and Labels

Italian wine labels, just like those from France and Spain, are required by law to show certain basic information (producer name, appellation, vintage, alcohol content and bottle volume). Italy began developing its official wine classifications in the 1960s, modeled on the French appellation system. Since then, several modifications and additions to the legislation have been made, the last being made in 2010, to be consistent with the latest European Union wine regulations (2008–09). The Italian government’s system of wine classification and labeling uses a four-tier quality hierarchy of currently more than 500 DOCG, DOC/DOP and IGT titles. These are the official tiers from bottom to top level:

Vino da Tavola (VdT): Wines with no geographical indication are called Vino da Tavola, or VdT, which means “table wine.” Table wines are made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy and are rarely of high enough quality to be bottled for the European market or export to the US.

Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): is the broadest category, in which all grapes should produced in a specific territory in Italy stated on the wine label. Otherwise, IGT wines do not have to conform to strict standards regarding the style of wine. Wines in the IGT category are often, but not always, of lower quality than DOC wines. Currently there are 118 IGTs in Italy.

Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) which includes two sub-categories: Vini DOC and Vini DOCG:

Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC): is next quality level, which means “designation of controlled origin.” There are 330 official DOC appellations in Italy, covering many types of wine, from the sparkling wines of Prosecco to the Vin Santo dessert wines of Tuscany, to a wide range of red and white wines across the country. Each DOC has its own rules about permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, and aging requirements.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG): is the highest quality level. The DOCG designation was created in 1980 in response to criticism that there were too many DOCs, and their quality was variable. DOCG wines, in contrast, were to be truly the best of what Italian wines could offer. The first DOCG wines were Barolo and Barbaresco, both red wines made from the Nebbiolo grape in Piedmont, and Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, both red wines made from the Sangiovese grape in Tuscany. There are now 77 official DOCG wine appellations located in 15 different regions, but mostly concentrated in the regions of Piemonte, Lombardy, Tuscany, and Veneto.

All DOCG wines and some DOC wines will have a paper band containing a serial number that covers the cork or wraps around the neck of the wine bottle.

On the other hand, the Italian wine classification system hasn’t kept up with the innovations and new quality styles coming out of Italy today. One such example is the case of Super Tuscans: this unofficial term emerged in the 1970s, to describe a particular set of high-quality Tuscan wines which were precluded from claiming DOC or DOCG status because they broke traditional Italian winemaking norms (use of foreign grape varieties, and wines often matured in small, new oak barrels). Several of these wines earned global recognition, hence ‘Super Tuscan’. Originally these wines had to be labeled as Vino da Tavola because they contravened the stringent, tradition-focused DOC laws. This situation ultimately led to the creation of the IGT category in the 1990’s, with its relatively relaxed production rules.

 

Italian Wine Regions

Italy is divided into 20 administrative regions, all of which produce wine, and all of which contain several discrete wine sub-regions or denominations. Therefore, for the purpose of this program, the 20 main wine regions correspond to the 20 administrative regions of the country. The text continues bellow the map.

Understanding the differences between these regions is helpful in understanding the different types of Italian wine. Wine in Italy tends to reflect the local cuisine, while regional cuisine also influences wine. Although some sub-regions like Chianti, Prosecco, and Barolo are very well-known, Italy’s over 400 diverse viticultural areas produce a wide range of wines that cover the entire flavor profile spectrum.

Here is a brief description of the Italian wine regions listed from smallest to largest in terms of production quantity.

 

  1. Valle d’Aosta (~0.05% DOC production).

Aosta Valley, which is also known as Valle d’Aosta, is the smallest and least populated region of Italy. It is situated in the mountainous Northwest corner of the country, and it shares borders with France and Switzerland. The climate in the Aosta Valley is distinct for an Alpine zone. It is located on the sheltered side of the Western Alps, which leads to falling in a rain shadow and experiencing warm and dry summers. However, the warm, sunny days are followed by much cooler nights, which can affect the grapes adversely. To deal with this, the vintners use various techniques, one of which is training the vines into pergolas. This helps to distribute ground heat to the vines on cold nights.

Despite its small size, the region produces a wide range of red and white wines using native and introduced grape varieties. The most important grape variety is Picotendro, which is the local variant of Nebbiolo. Additionally, the region produces Pinot Noir rosé, Petit Rouge (a red wine), and Petite Arvine (a white wine).

  1. Molise (~0.1% DOC production).

Molise wine region is the second smallest in Italy. Despite its small size, Molise produces some interesting red wines. Among red varieties, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Sauvignon are of great importance, while the most commonly used white grape varieties are Bombino Bianco, Greco, Fiano, and Malvasia.

  1. Basilicata (~0.1% DOC production).

The Basilicata, in Southern Italy, is one of the smallest wine-growing regions and it is located almost exclusively around the extinct volcano Vulture in the northeast of the region. The region is home to just one DOCG and four DOCs, which collectively cover only two bottles in every hundred produced here.

Their main wine is made using Aglianico grapes cultivated on the Vulture volcano’s slopes. The vineyards on Vulture are among the highest in Europe, with some lying beyond 1,000 meters above sea level. It boasts an impressive and commanding flavor profile. The DOCG Aglianico del Vulture Superiore is the only wine widely recognized beyond the region’s borders and has gained. Furthermore, vineyards are located near the charming towns of Rionero in Vulture and Matera in the east, which was the European Capital of Culture 2019 and is always worth visiting.

  1. Calabria (~0.17% DOC production).

The Calabria region in Southern Italy has a long history of wine production that dates back to ancient Greece. Calabrian wines were once renowned not only in Italy but also in other parts of Europe. However, in the late 19th century, the Phylloxera epidemic devastated the region’s vineyards, leading to a sharp decline in the wine industry.

The production of white wines in Calabria involves using a variety of Greco Bianco grapes. Additionally, when discussing Calabrian wines, it is worth mentioning Ciro, one of the region’s oldest wines. Ciro red wine is made from the indigenous Gaglioppo grapes and is a full-bodied, tannic wine with strong fruity flavors.

  1. Liguria (~0.2% DOC production).

The Liguria region can be described as small but beautiful. It is characterized by steep slopes with dry-stone walls, which are difficult to machine. These slopes are home to a handful of ancient grape varieties in the Cinque Terre. Due to the laborious work involved, many farmers have abandoned viticulture in favor of greenhouses in recent decades. However, in recent years, viticulture has experienced a small renaissance thanks to some innovative winemakers.

Liguria is a famous wine region that produces light white wines, particularly from Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes – known locally as “Pigato” because of the pigmented colors that appear on the mature grapes. Vermentino is considered one of Italy’s great grape varieties because of its perfect blend for sipping on a beach, having as an aperitif, or pairing with seafood. Many people mistake Pigato for Vermentino, but Vermentino usually has more intense colors, while Pigato has less pronounced and more subdued fruity aromas. The primary areas in Liguria where Pigato grapes are grown are Savona, Imperia, and Genoa. Pigato wine is an excellent reflection of the Ligurian terroir, highlighting the minerality of the soil and the sea salt aromas. Liguria also produces two red grape varietals – Rossese and Ormeasco (similar to Piedmont’s Dolcetto). Rossesse wines from Piedmont are notably fruity and spicy.

  1. Campania (~0.5% DOC production).

In the south of Italy, we find Campania, the most visited Southern Italian region. This should not be surprising: the region’s capital is Naples, the spiritual home of Pizza. This region produces unique indigenous wines, many of which are grown in the same volcanic soils that buried Pompeii. Grapes such as Pallagrello, Biancolella, Coda di Volpe, and Tintore make intriguing wines. Wines from Falanghina, Greco di Tufa, and Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio are particularly noteworthy.

Aglianico is the star of Campania’s wine scene. It is a powerful wine that can be compared to a mythical creature. It’s not for the faint of heart, as only the most passionate wine enthusiasts who enjoy a challenge would appreciate its harsh tannins, lack of fruitiness, and intense minerality. However, researchers believe that Aglianico was the primary grape variety used in Falernum, one of the most well-known wines of the Roman Empire. Aglianico is a highly tannic and rustic red wine, traditionally requiring about a decade of aging to become drinkable. Recently, Aglianico wines have gained popularity as winemakers have learned how to soften their robust, meaty tannins.

  1. Sardinia (~1% DOC production).

Sardinia may appear similar to Sicily, an Italian island of similar size, but it boasts a unique wine portfolio. It is the only region in Italy that produces and consumes more beer than wine, yet it boasts some exceptional and rare varieties, such as Torbato, Nasco, Monica, Semidano, and Vermentino. The vast terroir of this region has contributed to the development of quality grapes that are slowly gaining international recognition.

Among the many excellent wines produced in Sardinia are those made from Cannonau and Vermentino grapes. It was later discovered that the grape Cannonau, a source of pride for Sardinians, is Grenache. The wine made from this grape in Sardinia has a rustic taste with notes of dried fruit. The wines produced in Sardinia are highly aromatic and are usually available at a great value.

 

  1. Sicily (~1% DOC production).

Sicily is a beautiful and ancient place. Its rich soils, high altitude, and dry winds allow the island’s vineyards to produce a large tonnage of grapes per acre. Historically, winemakers focused on meeting market demands and prioritized quantity over quality. Consequently, only a few wines were considered good enough to bottle, resulting in mediocre quality and a poor reputation for Sicilian wines. However, with the help of renowned winemakers such as Giusto Occhipinti, Sicily has transformed its reputation from poor quality to luxury in just a few decades.

Today, they produce beautiful and magical wines from Frappato, Nerelo Mascalese, and Nero d’Avola. They also are making beguiling white wines from Moscato Bianco and Grillo. The greatest wines are fresh and delicate despite the hot African winds and the Mediterranean climate. The red wines from Sicily are dark, rich, and fruit-forward because of the warm climate. Nero d’Avola is a splendid red wine grape variety that deserves to be considered one of the best in the country.

  1. Lazio (~2% DOC production).

It is unsurprising that vine growing was prevalent in Rome, the Roman Empire’s center. However, even before the Romans, the Etruscans already practiced winemaking in Lazio. The Etruscans were an early tribe that spread agriculture and winemaking practices throughout central Italy.

Lazio is known for producing primarily white wines, mostly from the Malvasia and Trebbiano grape families. Additionally, Lazio is home to refreshing and zesty Grechetto. While the region’s primary red wine is Merlot, its signature red wine is Cesanese.

  1. Puglia (~3% DOC production).

Located at the Southern heel, this region has a geographical variety like no other. This is the hottest of the major Italian regions, and the wines are typically heavy and tannic. In the south, vines are grown on sandy but nutrient-rich flat vineyards. These differences in the soil greatly affect the wine produced there.

Sangiovese and Montepulciano – the classical central Italian grapes – are predominantly grown in the north, where vineyards can be found in hillier terroirs. The south is known for its Primitivo and Negroamaro varieties.

It’s interesting to note that Primitivo is not actually an Italian grape but originated in Croatia and was brought to Italy from across the Adriatic. In Croatia, the grape is called Crljenak Kaštelanski and is still grown there. In America, initially, it was cultivated in a greenhouse in Boston, Massachusetts, before being transplanted in Northern California and named Zinfandel.

  1. Marche (~3% DOC production).

The Marche is situated in the Eastern part of Italy, between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains. The region produces an equal amount of white and red wines. The white wine made from Verdicchio is the most famous wine in the region due to its refreshing and aromatic qualities. Pecorino is another special white wine grape that is grown in Marche.

The southern areas of the Marche region are renowned for producing some of the finest red wines. One such wine is the Rosso Piceno, which deserves more attention. This wine must contain a minimum of 60% Sangiovese. Another noteworthy red wine is the Rosso Cònero, which is required to have at least 85% Montepulciano, and the winemaker has the option of adding 15% Sangiovese. Lacrima is a dark-skinned grape variety native to Italy’s Marche region. Once much more widespread, it is now used almost exclusively in the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC wines, which are usually varietal.

  1. Friuli-Venezia Giulia (~6% DOC production).

Until the early 20th century, Friuli-Venezia Giulia was not considered part of Italy but a southern part of the Austrian Hapsburg empire. This rich region provided the Austro-Hungarian population with fruit, food, and wine. It is located in the far Northeastern corner of Italy. In total the region boasts four DOCGs, twelve DOCs, and three IGPs and is best known for its white wine production, some of them shared with neighboring regions (Veneto, Trentino).

Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s biggest wine export is Pinot Grigio, but its signature white grape is Friulano. The region produces a range of unique and intensely flavored Pinot Grigio styles, including Ramato, and is also responsible for a large quantity of Prosecco. Additionally, it is home to several other indigenous grape varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, and Picolit.

  1. Trentino Alto-Adige (~6% DOC production).

This beautiful and lesser-known Italian region is located near the Alps in the Northern part of Italy and produces excellent white wines. Reflecting its complex geopolitical history, Trentino-Alto Adige is composed of two autonomous provinces. Trentino is almost entirely Italian speaking, while Alto Adige has a predominantly German-speaking population, who call their province Südtirol (South Tyrol), and also was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919. Due to its proximity to neighboring countries, you may come across wine labels printed in different languages besides Italian, such as German and Ladino.

The primary grape varieties are the indigenous Schiava, Lagrein, and Germanic varieties Gewurztraminer, and Müller-Thurgau (the latter two are sweeter). Increasing quantities of Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are grown here, as well as the red Bordeaux varieties.

The region has a cool climate with plenty of sunshine and alpine soils, which makes it an ideal place for growing grapes. Despite the region’s infrequent rainfall, it is perfect for producing white and sparkling wines. Pinot Grigio is a popular choice because of its zippy and mineral-driven taste. In Trento, they produce a sparkling wine made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that can easily rival the best Champagne.

  1. Abruzzo (~7% DOC production).

Abruzzo is an Italian region on the east Adriatic coast and has one of Italy’s most contested identities. This region is highly mountainous and lush along the coastline, with most of it being nature reserves and forests. Yet, many publications and wine critics dismiss the region as insignificant; it has produced fine wine on a small scale for decades.

Abruzzo is home to two DOCG as well as seven DOC wine designations and is believed to be the birthplace of several grape varieties that thrive in Northern Italy and France. The primary grape varieties in Abruzzo are the white Trebbiano and red grape Montepulciano. The wines made from this red grape are known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. However, it can be a bit confusing as there is also a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is a wine from Tuscany made with Sangiovese. Montepulciano produces a dark, rich wine with high tannins and an herbaceous character, similar to Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, the classic Italian rosé Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo stands out and is worth trying.

 

  1. Umbria (~7% DOC production).

If Tuscany lacked highways and supermarkets, it would resemble Umbria. While competing regions produce more wine, Umbria’s wine is highly regarded by sommeliers. The region is landlocked and located east of Tuscany. The region comprises 13 DOCs and two DOCGs. Like Marche and Lazio, Umbria is best known for its white wine production, though its two top level DOCG designations are for fuller-bodied red wines that age exceptionally well: Montefalco’s Sagrantino grape, which is an outstanding example of a grape with massive tannic strength and complexity; and Torgiano Rosso Riserva based on Sangiovese.  Grechetto and Trebbiano are also among the signature grapes grown in this area.

Grechetto is the next most prominent white variety. It plays a supporting role in Orvieto and various other white wines in the region. Its minerally and zesty qualities resemble Pinot Grigio, with a distinct green almond flavor.

  1. Lombardy (~7% DOC production).

Lombardy is a region in North-Central Italy, widely known for being the country’s industrial hub. The regional capital, Milan, is the second-largest city in Italy. But the region is also home to vast areas of unspoiled countryside, which host many small-scale wineries that produce a significant amount of the region’s wine output. A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy offers a wide range of high-quality and refined wine styles, and is home to five DOCG, 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles.

The region is famous for its Nebbiolo-based red and for sparkling wines (two sparking DOCGs). It is particularly renowned for its Sparkling wine, which is made using Pinot Nero, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc grapes in the same way as Champagne, especially in the Oltrepo Pavese area. Lombardy also produces red wines from Nebbiolo grapes in the Valtellina, called here Chiavennasca, which is a lighter and more delicate version of Nebbiolo, akin to Pinot Noir, and rosé wines in the regions surrounding Lake Garda.

  1. Emilia-Romagna (~9% DOC production).

Emilia-Romagna is a rich, fertile region of Northern Italy. Its viticultural heritage dates back to the seventh century BC, ranking it among the oldest of Italy’s wine regions. The Etruscans introduced vines here that later were adopted by the Romans, who used the Via Aemilia Road (after which the region is named) to transport wine between its cities. About 15% of wine produced in Emilia-Romagna falls under the region’s 19 DOC denominations and only a tiny fraction under its two DOCGs (Albana di Romagna and Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto).

Emilia-Romagna’s famous Lambruscos come from five DOCs and match perfectly with Parma’s delicious cheeses. Lambrusco has long been considered a cheap, sweet, fruity wine. Now, there are several outstanding off-dry to totally dry Lambruscos from Emilia-Romagna.

  1. Piedmont (~11% DOC production).

Situated on the border of France and Switzerland is Piedmont, Italy’s western Alpine region, which is renowned for producing some of the finest Italian wine varietals. Although alpine in nature, grapes ripen well in the summertime warmth. The evenings are cold due to the diurnal nature of the high altitudes. Piedmont is home more DOCs and DOCGs than any other Italian region, among them the well-known Barolo (the king of wines), Barbaresco, and Barbera d’Asti.

Nebbiolo is a grape with high tannins and a pale color that has long been famous for its bristling acidity and high tannin, while Barbera, from the Monferrato hills, is Piedmont’s workhorse grape and the region’s most widely planted variety. Besides the great Nebbiolo wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, another success story in the past decade has been the region’s sweet white Moscato d’Asti (sometimes not appreciated) and the underdog red varietal Dolcetto, which has several DOCs and three DOCGs dedicated to it. Other native grape varietals that are grown here include Brachetto, Bonarda, Pelaverga, Malvasia, and Arneis.

  1. Tuscany (~17% DOC production).

Situated in Central Italy, Tuscany’s neighbors are Liguria and Emilia-Romagna to the north, Umbria and Marche to the east and Lazio to the south. Tuscany is a mesmerizing place and Italy’s oldest wine-growing region.  Before the rise of Rome, Tuscany was the home of the Etruscans, an ancient winemaking culture with connections to the Phoenicians. The region’s top wines are officially recognized and protected by 41 DOC and 11 DOCG titles. There are also six more flexible IGP/IGT designations, with the pan-regional Toscana IGP representing nearly a quarter of total output.

At the center of Tuscany wine production is the dry red Sangiovese, the most important of all Italian wine grapes, which has been cultivated here for so many centuries that it has adapted to nearly every microclimate in the region. These include Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Chianti wine district is the most famous for Sangiovese. When Sangiovese became the required major grape in Chianti during the 1970s, the other noble non-native grapes (Cab and Merlot) ended up creating a new style of wine: Super Tuscan.

As Sangiovese is to the classics, Super-Tuscan is to the modern. Tuscan winemakers discovered they could make exceptional wines with Cabernet Sauvignon. The problem was that the grape was not allowed in classic Tuscan wines like Chianti, which has to be at least 80% Sangiovese. The laws eventually changed, but the die was set. After that, super-Tuscans were the rock stars of the Italian coast.

For white wines in this region, Trebbiano (Ugni Blanc) is the region’s most-planted white grape, followed by Malvasia and Vermentino, which has similarities to Sauvignon Blanc.Veneto (~18% DOC production).

The Veneto wine region is situated in the northeast corner of Italy, just to the west of Friuli Venezia Giulia. This region is renowned for growing grapes that are unique and not commonly found in other parts of Italy. Most grapes grown here are indigenous to Italy, with Garganega, Glera, Corvina and Rondinella being the most prevalent. In recent times, Pinot Grigio has also been introduced and has become very popular amongst wine lovers.

The climate is a rare balance of Mediterranean and Alpine influences, making it possible to grow grapes with minimal effort. Besides the great red blends of Valpolicella made with Corvina, Corvinone (a distinct variety) Rondinella and Molinara, there are also several fine Merlot wines in this area. The most famous wine of Veneto is Amarone della Valpolicella, a decadently rich dry wine made from partially dried grapes (passito). Garganega and Trebbiano are the white grape varieties here. Today, 25% of the region’s wine is made and sold under 27 DOC/DOCG titles.

 

Wine Tasting Program for 2024

Based on the previous information, the proposed Tasting Program for 2024 can be titled “Rediscovering the Wines of Italy,” It focuses on selected wines from these producing regions and grapes varieties from Italy.

Each selected region and wine variety would be introduced by the presenters with the aim of giving greater context to the topic that will be analyzed and the wines that will be tasted. Members will be able to choose among these suggested topics:

  • Introducing less-known grape varieties.
  • Presenting wines from specific regions, especially focused on less-known regions.
  • Analyzing the differences between wines that have distinct quality designations.Showcasing wines that require unique conditions for growth, harvesting, or production.
  • Discovering wines made from the oldest and most ancient grape varieties.
  • Discussing wines made from the same grapes but different regions and climates of the country.
  • Introducing Italian spumante wines.
  • Presenting various types of wines produced by a single winery.
  • Introducing small wineries from various regions aiming to showcase their unique qualities and the distinct flavors of their wines.
  • Presenting the premium selection of white wines from the country.
  • Presenting the finest red wine selection from the country.
  • In addition, members may wish to propose a wine tasting from a small/medium producing country not presented in the last few years (2019-2023) in order to complete the calendar year.

 
Good Selection and Better Tasting!

References:

  1. MasterClass: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-doc-and-docg-wine-differences-between-doc-docg-igt-and-vdt-on-italian-wine-labels
  2. Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_wine
  3. Winefolly: https://winefolly.com/wine-regions/italy/
  4. https://winefolly.com/tips/super-tuscan-wines/
  5. LIbiamo: https://libiamowines.co.uk/en/how-many-italian-grape-varieties-are-there
  6. The Wine School: https://www.vinology.com/italian-wine-regions/
  7. Decanter: https://www.decanter.com/wine/wine-regions/friuli-venezia-giulia/
  8. https://italysfinestwines.it/en/news/

 

 

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Tasting No260. The Best wines of 2023 December 12, 2023, 12:30

Tasting No260. The Best wines of 2023  December 12, 2023 with an address by Juan Luis Colaiacovo on Club del Vino development

December 12, 2023, 12:30

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA         

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Objective and Overview

The objective of this tasting is to revisit the best wines from this year. We will enjoy the best white wine and will be able to compare the three best reds selected from the tastings of 2023.

Type of tasting: Semi blind

Presenter: John and Lucia Redwood

Participants: the list will be added after the tasting

Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Claro; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; A.&C. Perazza; J.&L. Redwood; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; R. Zavaleta; and G. Zincke

The Menu

  • Asparagus soup
  • Spinach and white cheese agnolotti with tomato sauce
  • Beef medallion with brown sauce and roasted potatoes
  • Coffee, tea and dessert

Wines Selection and Tasting Procedure

The methodology to select the wines was very simple: among the more than 40 wines tasted during 2023, all but those presented in May were rated in quantitative terms by the participants, regarding their quality (“best wine”). The numerical quality ratings for all the wines (whites and reds) sampled on 10 monthly tasting events during the year were ranked; the white wine with the highest rating and the three red wines with the highest ratings were selected. An interesting common feature of the “best of the best” wines selected is that, while they were evenly divided between Argentina and Chile, all four wines are blends rather than single varietals.

The tasting will follow the following procedure:

  • Blind tasting of the 3 reds in random order.
  • Participants may try to identify the red wines and will rank the wines by order of preference (subjective ranking).
  • The preferences will be aggregated and informed to the participants
  • The wines are revealed, and prices are disclosed.
  • Participants select ‘best value’ wine.

 

The Wines

The following wines were selected from the best wines in 10 tastings. The vintages may be different from the wines originally tasted because of availability in the market.

 

♦ Catena – Appellation White Clay, 2022 (2020 no longer available) – February 2023

The Producer: Bodega Catena Zapata located in Mendoza, Argentina.

  • Year – 2020
    • Varietal: White blend Semillon 60%; Chenin Blanc 40%.
    • Region: Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
  • Aging: Eight months in French oak barrels
  • 13% APV

Tasting notes: Deeply aromatic with expressive citrus and peach with a rich and mineral finish. Pairs well with vegetables, pasta and grilled white meat.

“The grapes were harvested quite early and then fermented in stainless steel, managing to keep the alcohol to 13.5% in this warm and dry year. It’s balsamic and medicinal, with notes of yellow fruit and some spicy smokiness, as 35% of the wine matured in new barrels for seven to eight months. It’s soft and creamy without excess, combining volume and tasty flavors and a bitter twist in the finish” (Wine Advocate).

♦  Seña, Aconcagua Valley, 2020 (2019 no longer available) – March & April 2023

  • Vintage: 2020
  • Varietal: Bordeaux Blend: 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, 15% Carménère, 7% Petit Verdot
  • Region: Aconcagua Valley, Chile
  • Vineyard: Close to the sea with the benefit of coastal winds and long hanging period.
  • Farming: Biodynamic and hand harvested.
  • Ageing: 22 months in 90% French oak barrels (80% new) and 10% foudres.
  • 5% APV

Tasting notes: A deep and beautiful garnet-red color with violet hues, the 2020 Seña presents complexity on the nose with multiple layers of fresh red-fruit aromas such as cherries and raspberries accompanied by violets and pleasing touches of dill and rosemary, all framed by light notes of sweet spices. The palate shows young fruits, more sweet spices, and smooth balsamic tones. It is fresh and juicy with elegant fine-grained tannins that create a silky and pleasing sensation. The 2020 vintage shows elegance and balance with an ample and profound finish.

The 2020 Seña is a blend from grapes harvested early, the second week of March, and fermented mostly in stainless steel and 10% in concrete eggs. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and good freshness. It’s subtle and layered, not only fruit but with more spice; it has polished tannins and very integrated oak after 22 months in barrique, 78% new, and with 10% of the volume in large Stockinger barrels. …This wine has intensity and complexity, with no herbal or mint notes; it is spicy and juicy, with energy and depth. It has structure, color, stuffing, and acidity to develop nicely in bottle (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).

♦  Salentein Numina Gran Corte 2019 – Valle de Uco, Argentina – June 2023

The producer: The Bodega Salentien, located in the Uco Valley, Chile.

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal Composition: 65% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet
  • Region: Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
    • Vinification: Hand harvested, fermentation in 7,000L oak casks. The varieties of this blend were made separately and after 6 months aged in barrels, the barrels were emptied and the blend was made, which came back to the oak barrel to finish the ageing process. The total ageing time was 16 months.
  • 5%APV

Tasting notes: It displays a bright, intense and deep purplish color. The aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes of vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure and a long finish.

Purple in the glass. The complex nose offers clearly defined notes of cigar box, vanilla, fresh plum, blackcurrant and bay leaf with hints of ash. Lean and juicy in the mouth with refined tannins, the flavors are driven by the oak (Vinous).

♦  Clos Apalta, 2018, Colchagua Valley, Chile – August 2023

  • Producer: Clos Apalta, Aconcagua Valley
  • Vintage: 2018
  • Varietals: Bordeaux Blend: 64% Carménère, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot.     Alcohol Content: 15% vol.
  • Region: D.O.  Apalta
  • Fermentation Type: 75% in 75hL French oak vats, 25% in new French oak barrels
  • Ageing:  25 Months in French oak barrels. 87% new French oak barrels, 13% in second use.

Tasting notes. Deep and inky purple red robe with dark blue edges. Intense, spicy with layers of red and black fruit on the nose, with cedar notes. Elegant tannins open towards a mid-palate that combines finesse and concentration, round and fresh. Exceptionally long finish.

CV Members Rating

The tasting took place before revealing the wines and their prices. 14 participants rated them from to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.

Clos Apalta, 2018 was rated the Best Wine and Salentein ‘Numina Gran Corte, 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

 

 

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Tasting No 259 November 28, 2023 Wines of Canelones, Uruguay

Tasting No 259  November 28 (previously 14), 2023 12:30pm

Wines of Canelones, Uruguay

 

  Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The Canelones wine region of Uruguay may be one of the lesser-known gems in the world of wine, but its growing recognition is well-deserved. With its unique terroir, diverse grape varieties, innovative viticulture practices, and unique maritime influence, Canelones is in the forefront of the Uruguayan wine industry. In this tasting, we’ll explore the Canelones wine region of Uruguay, delving into its history, climate, grape varieties, and the thriving wine culture that has emerged in recent years.

Type of tasting:  Open

Presenter:  Michelle Fryer

Participants R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Boccalandro; J. Brakarz; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. Garcia; N. Marzella; C. Perazza; L. and J. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi and P. Meduña (invited).     

 These are the Wines:

  1. Bouza ‘Albarino’, 2022
  2. Pizzorno ‘Tannat Maceración Carbónica’, 2020
  3. Bouza ‘Tannat,’ 2019
  4. Bouza ‘Tannat A6 Parcela Unica’, 2018

The Menu:

  • Calamare sauteed in lemon sauce
  • Spaghetti Carbonara
  • Grilled NY Steak with Spinach and brown sauce on the side
  • Dessert, coffee, tea.

 

  1. The Canelones Wine Region

Uruguay, often overshadowed by its wine-producing neighbors, Argentina and Chile, is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America. The Canelones wine region, located in the southern part of the country, is the epicenter of the country’s wine production and has been steadily gaining recognition for its exceptional wines. Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the capital city of Montevideo, Canelones is a region characterized by a temperate maritime climate, rolling hills, and fertile soils that provide an ideal environment for producing world-class wines.

History and Terroir.  The Canelones wine region is Uruguay’s oldest and most prominent wine-producing area. Wine grapes have grown here for over 250 years, although commercial viniculture did not begin until the second half of the 19th Century when a wave of European immigrants brought rootstock and vines of different varietals to the country.  The original transplants of Tannat were called “Harriague” in honor of the French Basque settler who introduced the varietal. Over the past few decades Uruguayan wine has emerged quietly and steadily onto the world market. In the past, most of the wine was table wine, produced mainly for the domestic market; but from the year 2000 onward, the consumption of table wine has declined year after year, and the production and consumption of high-quality wine has increased.  Currently Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America, however a relatively small share (10%) of its wine is exported.

Canelones is responsible for 60% of the country’s wine production. It is therefore not only the epicenter of the Uruguayan wine industry, but for Tannat as well, with more of the variety planted within the department than anywhere else on Earth. The region owes its success to the combination of favorable climatic conditions, exceptional terroir, and a long growing season with ample sunlight, making it well-suited for the slow ripening of the fruit.  It benefits from the temperate maritime climate which is characterized by cool breezes and a significant temperature range between day and night — both essential for the development of complex flavors in the grapes.  Proximity to the Atlantic Ocean also results in refreshing acidity and mineral notes in white wines, and a softer tannin structure in red wines. Likewise, the Atlantic breeze plays a role in reducing the risk of pests and diseases in the vineyards; and the thick skin of the Tannat grape is impervious to the mildew that so readily affects more delicate varieties, allowing for sustainable and organic farming practices.

One of the most interesting assets of Uruguay is the wide diversity of soils. Uruguay has 99 classified soil types. The lengthy coastline on three sides of the country moderates the temperature and the absence of mountains exposes the landscape to weathering and erosion that has resulted in a relatively flat topography and formulated a variety of soil types throughout the country. The viticultural areas of the south have the deepest, most fertile soils. The Canelones region is characterized by diverse terroirs, including clay-rich soils, limestone, and sandy loam. The presence of volcanic rock and weathered granite helps to promote drainage.  These varied soil types, along with the maritime influence and microclimates, allow winemakers to craft a wide spectrum of wines, from elegant and fruit-forward to structured and powerful.

The grape varietals: No summary of Uruguayan wine is complete without mention of Tannat, the robust, tannic red that has played such a pivotal role in the country’s rising wine status. Just as Chile has its Carmenere and Argentina its Malbec, so Tannat has become Uruguay’s ‘icon’ grape.

Tannat was originally known for its harsh tannins, high acidity and dark fruit that was nearly undrinkable upon release, but in Uruguay, vintners have found methods to soften the tannins and create powerful wines that taste of plums and blackberries. In addition to these fruit flavors, Tannat, when blended with other varieties, or produced in capable winemaking hands, tends to show off more complex notes of herbs, chocolate, leather, earth, and minerals.

Originally from southwest France, Tennat has found a second home in Uruguay and accounts for some 27 percent of the country’s plantings.  The grape needs some humidity to balance its tannin, sugar, and acidity, otherwise, the sugars accumulate before the skin ripens; hence it thrives in the country’s favorable maritime climate, producing wines with intense dark red, bluish, and almost black color, often with violet reflections; and aromas of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and earthy undertones. In the best varietal examples, the tannins are strong but supple. These wines are often characterized by their robust structure and longevity, making them a unique representation of the region as a single varietal or in interesting blends.

While Tannat takes the lead, winemakers in the region have also started experimenting with other grape varieties, resulting in a growing portfolio of varietals that include Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah. These grapes add diversity to the region’s wine offerings, catering to a broader range of palates.

Wineries and Viticulture. Canelones is home to some 900 vineyards, many of which are family owned. These wineries often emphasize sustainable and organic practices, contributing to the region’s reputation for producing environmentally conscious wines. Larger commercial operations and boutique producers also contribute to the region’s dynamic winemaking landscape.  Nonetheless, until recently, the world has taken little notice of Uruguayan wine. Very little is exported (up to 10% nationally) and winemaking is largely focused on the domestic market. In contrast to Argentina and Chile, Uruguay has few internationally recognized successes. Top producers such as Bodega Bouza, Garzon, Juanicó, and Pizzorno are newcomers in the international wine scene. These winemakers are investing in better equipment and technology and are known for their distinct winemaking styles and top-quality wines.  As a result of better quality, the exports of these producers have increased. Bouza now exports 60% of its production, and Garzon ships out 73%, mainly to the United States.

 

  1. The Wines

 Wine #1. Pizzorno Capital, ‘Tannat Maceración Carbónica’, 2020

Producer: Pizzorno Family Estates.  Established in 1910, Pizzorno is a key producer in Canelones.  Pizzorno’s mission is to produce “grapes of excellent quality, to obtain fine wines in limited series – the result of an acquired winemaking style that combines art and technology”.  The winery has one of the most innovative portfolios in the region with Uruguay’s first carbonic maceration Tannat wines and ice wines. This fourth-generation family producer may be groundbreaking in their winemaking, but they also respect the century-long tradition of the family wine business.  With 21 hectares of vineyards in Canelones, Pizzorno only uses Estate fruit in their wines.  Pizzorno’s vineyards are located on a gentle slope with shallow, clay loam soils and calcareous material, and planted with Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Arinarnoa, Marselan, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Moscatel de Hamburgo.  Vineyard management is focused on green harvesting and careful canopy management to achieve full ripeness and the best quality grapes. All the grapes are hand harvested and the winemakers carefully choose the harvest date based on sensorial and chemical analysis of the grapes.

The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2020
  • Variety:  100% Tannat.
  • Vinification: carbonic maceration; aged in bottle for 2 yrs.
  • Alcohol 13.5%.
  • Press and Points:  91 pts., Tim Atkin; 92 Pts., Descorchados.

Winemaker notes:  Bright and fresh because of how it’s made, this wine is lean for a Tannat. Carbonic maceration is an ancient vinification technique that has its origin in Greece and Rome.  Carbonic maceration keeps the wine’s fruit flavors extra fresh and intense, with less tannin and overall extraction. It works like this: whole grape clusters are harvested and transported to the winery in 10kg boxes to preserve the integrity of the grape.  The grape clusters are next placed in a large concrete tank that is sealed for 20 days. The grapes on the bottom get crushed under the weight of those above them, and they start to ferment naturally from the yeast on the skins. As CO2 is released, it pushes out oxygen and keeps the grapes fresh. Eventually, so much CO2 builds up that the rest of the grapes’ skins burst. Hence, carbonic maceration! Pizzorno is the only commercial winery to process the Tannat grape this way.   This technique produces a lively, juicy, and subtly herbaceous wine which has a soft palate due to decreased acidity, while increasing the extraction of aromas. Following the fermentation process, the wine is parked in the bottle for 2 years.

Tasting notes: light ruby color with violet reflections and medium intensity. Red fruits such as raspberry or cherry and banana on the nose. On the mouth, balanced, smooth, balanced acidity, low intensity of tannins.

 

Wine #2. Bouza ‘Albarino’ 2022

Producer: Bodega Bouza. Without a doubt, the leading winery for tourism in this region is Bouza. The Bouza family are true visionaries. They pioneered fine wines in Uruguay, were the first to plant Albariño there, and opened Uruguay’s first fine-dining winery restaurant.

Juan and Eliza Bouza are relatively new to the wine industry, having co-founded the project with renowned Uruguayan winemaker Eduardo Boido in 2000. From the very beginning, Bouza has focused on making premium wines and over the last ten years has established itself as Uruguay’s most critically acclaimed producer.

What’s interesting about Bouza’s story is how, even as new producers, they looked to their ancestors to pave their path in wine. Coming from families of Galician descent, and with some extended family still in Rias Baixas, they asked their family for Galician vines and planted Albariño in Canelones and Montevideo in 2001. This rather inspired move saw them not only make the first Albariño wines in South America, but ignite an important Albariño movement in Uruguay, which is undoubtedly the rising star of Uruguay’s white wines.

The success of Bouza’s Albariño has also encouraged the winery to expand farther afield, planting new vineyards in the rare syenite soils of Pan de Azúcar, and a hilltop vineyard on poor, volcanic soils in Las Espinas in the Maldonado region. But for now, the lion’s share of Bouza’s wines still comes from the traditional wine regions of Canelones and Montevideo, where they have three vineyards, including their prized vineyard in Las Violetas.

To increase biodiversity and reinforce the balance between pests and their natural enemies, Bouza alternates grapes with rows of plant cover composed of herbs characteristic of the Uruguayan natural meadow. The harvest begins in early February with the Pinot Noir variety, followed by our white varieties Albariño, Chardonnay and Riesling; then continues with the Merlot and Tempranillo tints, usually ending in mid-March with the emblematic variety of Uruguay, Tannat.

 

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Variety: 100% Albarino
  • Appellation: Canelones
  • Vinification: 90% fermented in stainless steel tanks and 10% in French Oak barrels; aged 4 months over its lees; unfiltered,
  • Alcohol 13.5%.
  • Points and Press: 92 Points, James Suckling; 92 Points, Tim Atkin;               95 Points, Descorchados.

Winemaker notes: If you take Rias Baixas in Galicia, Spain – where this grape is from – and transposed it west and south to the coast of South America, you’d end up in Uruguay! For this reason, Albariño does well there. This Albarino is super fresh, with minerals adding extra waxiness in the mid-palate. Gala apple and salinity are the two flavors that define this wine. The recommended serving temperature is 54oF.

Tasting notes: Pale yellow color, with golden highlights. Aromas of peach and white flowers, pineapple, and pear.  Moving the glass, pineapple enhances its presence, vanilla and caramel appear. Sweet entrance in the mouth with a slow evolution and a balanced acidity. Long finish.

 

Wine #3. Bouza Tannat 2019

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Variety:  100% Tannat
  • Viticulture: Grapes are sourced from three maritime influenced    sites: Melilla, a fairly cool climate site that surrounds the winery;           Las Violetas, a warmer, clay driven site; and Pan de Azucar.
  • Vinification: fermented for 12 days at 79oF degrees in steel tanks,              then aged for 16 months in French and American oak barrels.
  • Appellation: Canelones
  • Alcohol 14.5%.
  • Points and Press:  93 Points, James Suckling; 93 Points, Uncorked.

Winemaker notes: Tannat literally means “Tannic,” but not as a warning. Instead, it signals that wines made from this grape will have a distinctly textural expression, giving the wine more contour and size. Wild dark fruits abound, and the wine also sees oak, adding herbal notes and smoothing the tannins. James Suckling observed that this wine is a “complex, engaging expression of Tannat, showing dark, meaty fruit, black spices, some black earth, tar and hints of cocoa powder and oyster sauce. Medium-to full-bodied and juicy with fine-grained tannins and a lengthy finish. Showing power, natural concentration and good precision.”  The grapes were grown in the clay and limestone soils of the Melilla and Las Violetas vineyards and handpicked between March 6-18, 2019.  The recommended serving temperature is 60o F.

Tasting notes:  Intense red color. Fruit aromas include raspberry and blackberry.  Notes of quince and tobacco. Balanced acidity, good volume, and present tannins. Very long finish. Garnet red color with petrol highlights. Very expressive in the nose with black fruits, mulberries, cassis, raisins, over an elegant smoky background. Velvety but marked tannins. Balanced and persistent final bouquet.

 

Wine # 4. Bouza ‘Tannat A6 Parcela Unica’, 2018

  • Vintage:2018
  • Variety: 100% Tannat
  • Appellation: Canelones
  • Viticulture: Grapes sourced from single parcel in Melilla. Dry      farmed for maximum depth of flavor in the finished wine.
  • Vinification: Manual selection of the grapes. Controlled        fermentation at 26oC, with 2 pump overs and 1 pipeage a day.      Total maceration 12 days. 17 months in new French and American               oak barrels.
  • Alcohol: 16%.
  • Points and Press:  90 Wine Enthusiast, 93 points Descorchados

Winemaker notes: This wine is a single parcel Tannat that Bouza considers one of its masterpieces. The quality of fruit here is exceptional, but it’s the tannins and overall texture of the wine that’s sublime.  According to Vivino, the wine is currently the #1 “top Uruguay Tannat wine in the United States.”  Sourced from Melilla, the relatively cool-climate vineyard that surrounds the winery, planted rows are uniquely topped with two feet of pink granite from a local quarry to collect and radiate additional heat for these grapes. This bottling showcases the savory/smoky/earthy side of Tannat, and is one of the richest, balanced, most memorable examples of single-vineyard Tannat produced in Uruguay.  Wine Enthusiast notes that… “coffee and black fruit aromas shape the nose and lead to flavors of grass and plum. Oak flavors are slightly intense but well integrated. It has a full body, smooth tannins, and a long finish with hints of black olive and nutmeg”. It can be conserved for 12-15 years. The recommended serving temperature is between 16-18o C.

Tasting notes: Intense purple color. Plum raisins aroma. Quince marmalade and toasted notes.  Balanced mouth, with big volume and smooth tannins. Long finish.

  1. CV Members rating:     

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. Fifteen participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.

Bouza ‘Tannat’, 2019 was rated the Best Wine and the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

This post draws heavily on these sources:

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-uruguay

https://pizzornowines.com/en/

https://bodegabouza.com/vinedos/

https://www.grandcata.com/home

https://southamericawineguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/SAWG_mapas-Uruguay-Page-2.jpg

Uruguay:  The Little Wine Country that Could.  March 11,2022/updated June 2023.  https://worldoffinewine.com/news-features/uruguay-the-little-wine-country-that-could#:~:text=Uruguay%27s%20wine%20regions-,Canelones,most%20populous%20city%20of%20Uruguay.

Team Haverkate.  Uruguay’s Wine Regions:  Exploring the Country’s Vineyard.  https://www.realestate-in-uruguay.com/blog/uruguays-wine-regions-exploring-the-countrys-vineyard/

Amanda Barnes.  Canelones:  The Heartland of Uruguayan Wine.  July 2016.  https://aroundtheworldin80harvests.com/2016/07/19/uruguayan-wine-uruguay-canelones/

The Most Spectacular Winery Restaurants in South America. September 2023.  https://cluboenologique.com/story/best-south-american-winery-restaurants/

Zraly, M. DeSimone & J. Jenssen. Red Wine: The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties and Styles. New York: Sterling Epicure. 2017.

Taming the Tannat:  Uruguayan Wine Gets a Makeover.  June 2021.  https://www.jamessuckling.com/wine-tasting-reports/taming-the-tannat-uruguayan-wine-gets-makeover/

.o0o.

 

The world’s problems began when white-striped zebras began to hate black-striped zebras.

Os problemas do mundo começaram quando as zebras de listras brancas começaram a odiar as zebras de listras pretas.

.o0o.

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Tasting #258 – October 31, 2023 – Wines from PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Tasting #258 – October 31, 2023 – Wines from PATAGONIA, Argentina.

  Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Testing overview

The wine production of PATAGONIA, Argentina.

 

Patagonia is South America’s southernmost wine-producing region. Despite being one of the world’s least-obvious places for quality viticulture, this desert region – with its cool, dry climate – has proved itself well suited to producing elegant red wines from Pinot Noir and Malbec.

The cooler climate in Patagonia is ideal for wines like Pinot Noir and Merlot.

The geographical region covers a vast area – around twice the size of California – across southern Argentina and Chile. Patagonia is more closely associated with dinosaurs and desert than with fine wine production.

The total land under vine in Patagonia is less than 10,000 acres or about 4,000 hectares, which represents about 2% of the total planted in Argentina.

However, the viticultural zone stretches 300 kilometers (200 miles) along the Neuquen and Rio Negro rivers, from Anelo in the west to Choele Choel in the east. The zone is closer to the Andes Mountains than to the Atlantic Ocean, but is at a much lower altitude than its northern cousin of Mendoza, averaging about 300 metres (1000 feet) above sea level.

Patagonia is a desert, and viticulture is possible only near the rivers, where meltwater from the Andes is abundant for irrigation. The classic desert climate of warm days and cold nights extends the growing season in the region, slowing ripening in the grapes and letting them develop rich varietal character while retaining acidity.

Patagonia has gained recognition within the wine world due to the two viticultural regions located in its northern section: the more-established Rio Negro and the newer, still developing Neuquen. Wines from these two zones are traditionally more European in style than those from the central and northern regions of Argentina, as a result of the areas’ cooler climate and higher latitude.

There are a number of factors which mean that the wines produced in Patagonia wine region are some of the most complex, characterful and excellent Argentinian wines. These factors include the climate, temperature range, strong winds and long periods of sunshine during the ripening season.

The red wines of the Patagonia wine region are complex with intense colors and excellent typicity. Wine lovers are giving increased attention to the La Pampa area of Patagonia where excellent Cabernet Franc wines are produced. These wines have added to the catalogue of diverse wines produced in Patagonia and have hints of red fruit, elegant tannins, and tasting notes of pepper. The Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon red wines of Patagonia are grown at higher altitudes in the region where the soils are stony and irrigation levels are higher. This allows for the production of fruitier wines with intense colors and refined tannins. Patagonian Merlot wines are described as smooth and balanced with intense aromas. The Malbec of the region has an intense ruby color with aromas of black cherries, lavender, biscuits, and spices. The palate of the wine is dry with refreshing acidity, a medium body, balanced flavors, and ripe tannins. While Malbec still plays a central role in Patagonian wine, it is Pinot Noir that has become the region’s iconic grape variety.

Patagonian wines pair well with regional dishes and local ingredients. Given the cool climate, the wines often exhibit freshness and vibrant acidity, making them ideal with grilled lamb, game meats, salmon, trout, and local cheeses.

Excellent white wines made from ChardonnaySauvignon Blanc and Riesling also showcase the freshness of the region’s climate.

Patagonia’s location in the southern latitudes and its cool climate contribute to the production of elegant and expressive wines. The region’s temperature variations, longer growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts create favorable conditions for producing wines with freshness, complexity, and vibrant acidity.

Guillermo Barzi Canale  “Patagonia is synonymous of mountains, lakes, desert, glaciers, land of dinosaurs, magic, purity and also elegant and sophisticated wines.”

Type of testing: Open

Presenter: Jaime Estupiñán

Participants:       S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; R. Connolly; C. Estrada;J. Estupiñan; J. Garcia; N.  Marzella; C. and A. Perazza; L. J. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; G. Vega, and G. Zincke.   

The Wines

  1. Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc, 2022. Rio Negro, Patagonia (JS 92)
  2. Pinot Noir 2021, Neuquen Patagonia. (JS 93).
  3. Wapisa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019, Patagonia, Argentina. (JS 92).
  4. Humberto Canale Gran Reserva Merlot 2019, Rio Negro Argentina.

Menu

  • Seafood salad.
  • Agnolotti with tomato sauce.
  • Grilled Lamb shops, potatoes and vegetables.
  • Desert, coffee, tea.

 

Information on the Wines and the wineries

 

 1 –  WAPISA SAUVIGNON BLANC. 2022, Rio Negro, PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Winemaker Notes

With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region. Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.

James Suckling JS92

A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.

VINOUS: 89 PTS

Product Details

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Region: Patagonia, Argentina     Producer: Wapisa    Vintage: 2022   Size: 750ML    ABV: 13.8%      Features: Screw Cap

 Winemaker notes: With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region.

Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.

Critical Acclaim

James Suckling          JS92

A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.

Producer: Wapisa Winery

https://vinodelsol.com/?wpfb_dl=1793

Revolutionary is the word Patricia Ortiz, owner of Wapisa, uses to describe the winery. Not only is Wapisa the only Coastal Winery in Patagonia, but it is the only winery in Argentina to age wines under the sea. Inspired by the coastal influences, Patricia decided to incorporate the ocean into the aging process. The pressurized atmosphere with its constant temperature provides perfect conditions for aging wines.

“Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale.” Not only do whales frequent the nearby coast of the winery’s vineyards, but a local legend talks of a wapisa that actually lived on land. The wines, like the Wapisa, are an expression not just of their soils but of the nearby ocean as well.

Located in San Javier, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina, Wapisa is just 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and is the only winery that exists in this unique coastal terroir. Our vineyard “Finca Los Acantilados” is an estate that stands out for its lime clay soils, good acidity and little organic matter. The terroir is complemented by the outstanding thermal amplitude, highlighted by cool maritime breezes that sweep over the vineyards at night, leading to balanced and fruity wines with a touch of salinity and a delicate varietal expression. As Master of Wine Tim Atkin stated, this is “the new Argentina.”

Patricia and her winery are dedicated to preserving the land and the sea. The winery is not only follows sustainable practices, but Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the California Ocean Alliance California Ocean Alliance.

The wines are made by Jean Claude Berrouet the recently-retired winemaker of Chateau Petrus, having presided over 44 vintages at this revered Bordeaux winery. Every wine they produce has gotten huge press from The Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling.

 

2  –  KOSKIL  PINOT NOIR 2021, NEUQUEN, PATAGONIA.

Product Details

Country / State: Argentina     Region: Patagonia   Brand: Koskil  Wine Type: Red Wine       Varietal: Pinot Noir      Style: Elegant     ABV: 13.5%        Taste: Vanilla, Floral, Cherry        Body: Medium-bodied

Food Pairings: Beef, Pork, Chicken

Product Highlights

Rating Source: James Suckling-Patagonia Argentina, Points: 93: “Notes of cherries, wild strawberries, pomegranate peel and light spices. Fresh and crunchy with medium body and soft tannins. It has a smooth silky texture and a delicious fruit profile, with notes of blue flowers. Flavorful finish.” Vanilla, Floral, Cherry.

Average Rating         3.7       (231 Ratings)

Producer: Koskil Winery

Produced in Neuquén, Patagonia. Estate bottled. Bottled for Group PENAFLOR.

The Group PENAFLOR es el mayor productor y exportador de vinos de Argentina.

Bottle description: The early inhabitants of the remote lands of Patagonia believed in a supreme God named Kooch, whose breath originated strong wind that separated the waters from the earth. That blustery winds weeping across the Patagonia towards the Atlantic was called  Koskil, the wind that defines our terroir. It shapes our identity more than any other natural phenomenon. Its presence determine our features, our costumes, our life. Its dryness protect vines and preserve their health. And it gives our wine its name: Koskil.

3 – WAPISA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina.

Product Details

Country: Argentina       Region: Patagonia     Vintage: 2019    Winery: Wapisa     Grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon     Alcohol: 14.1%      Size: 750 ml     Organic wine: Yes       Natural wine: Yes

Winemaker Notes: Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate.

CRITICAL ACCLAIM

James Suckling – “Intense red color. Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Spicy aromas such as eucalyptus and black pepper. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate”

James Suckling         93 points ( 2017 y 2018)

Producer: Wapisa Winery. See information above.

4.   HUMBERTO CANALE GRAN RESERVA MERLOT 2019, RION NEGRO, PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Product details

Composition: Merlot varietal 100%        Origin: Old vineyards in General Roca, Upper Valley of Rio Negro, Patagonia.      Alcohol: 14.0%     Total acidity: 5.02 gr/L       Residual Sugar: 2.05 gr/L

Harvest: At the end of March. Carefully harvested by hand, immediately sent to cellar, distant to 1km from the vineyard, in small containers.     Yield: 7,000 Kgs/hectare.

Development: The grapes are received in small containers and a selection of clusters is carried out, after the destemming a cold pre-fermentation maceration is carried out for 48-72 HS, alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperature (25 ° to 27 º C) in cement vessels of 9000 Lts of capacity for a period of 20 days with periodic reassembly and Delestage. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent aging in new French and American oak barrels for a period of 12 months and then bottling. Period of storage in bottle for 6 months before marketing.

Guarda: 8 years.

Winemaker testing notes: Intense ruby red color, fruity and spices aromas. A modern, round, soft and subtle wine. No doubt Merlot is one of the varieties that best adapts to the particular climatic conditions of this region. In this case it is one of the few Argentinian Merlots produced with good concentration and important potential of Guarda. It has a bright and intense purple color. Warm, very intense and enveloping Aroma. It seduces by its complexity, highlighting the notes contributed by its passage in wood, which are mixed well with the red fruits contributed by the variety. In the mouth presents a powerful body, with a lot of concentration and very pleasant fruity flavor. Long end and pleasing remembrance. Its structure and potent tannins reveal an important potential of guard.

Pairing: Red meats such as lamb and Southern deer and pasta stuffed with meat sauces.

Producer: Humberto Canale Winery

Going through the history of the winery Humberto Canale is like traveling throughout the history of the upper valley of the Rio Negro: From its beginnings with the arrival of the railway and the irrigation canals, until the present day, eleven decades and five generations later.

The winery originated in 1909, shortly after the conquest of the Patagonian desert (between 1878 and 1885), when its founder, the engineer Humberto Canale, along with other governmental executives from President Roca’s administration (1898-1904) , went through the place to implement irrigation systems in the region

Humberto Canale Winery is located near General Roca city, in the heart of the Alto Valle of Rio Negro, Patagonia. It is a family company founded by Engineer Humberto Canale in 1909. Four generations later, the founder’s wisdom regarding handmade processes is combined with the most updated techniques, and the result is the production of fine wines of international quality. At present the winery is managed by Engineer Guillermo Barzi Canale. The company owns 150 has. The old vineyards where traditional French varieties are found: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon among the red ones, and Semillón, Sauvignon Blanc Viognier and Torrontés among the white ones.

The grapes generally ripen twenty days later than in the Cuyo region. This happens at the beginning of autumn, when the days are warm and the nights are cold; a slow maturation occurs and the grapes reach an excellent balance between sugar and natural acidity. The combination of these factors produces wines of great intensity of color and character. Finally, we include a quotation by the enologists’ master, Mr. Raul de la Mota: “In Rio Negro, wines as famous as the French ones may be produced. The grapes of that Argentine region are excellent, vigorous and with peculiar features that are different from those of the rest of the country. Among others, I was amazed with the Pinot Noir and the Cabernet varieties. This region has a specific enological personality and a highly valuable viticulture may be developed in it.”

Currently, the Humberto Canale establishment has 5000 hectares, 150 of vineyards and the rest of fruit trees that is sold in the market as an PAI partner

The winery produces 1,500,000 kilograms of grapes per year, has a capacity of more than 1,700.000 bottles  per year and storage capacity for 3,200,000 liters. The varietals: Franc, Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot Pinot Noir, Riesling ,Sauvignon Blanc, Semillón.

Additional information on the Patagonia Argentina.

Guide to the Patagonia Region  

Move over Mendoza. Patagonia is the new Malbec producing kid in Argentina. This may seem unlikely, since Patagonia’s wine regions are so far south. In fact, they’re the southernmost regions in the world. Yet since the 1990s, there’s been an explosion of investment here, as it has attracted some of the biggest names in international luxury winemaking.

Patagonia is home to three important sub-regions. Out of this trio, only Río Negro had a viticultural history pre-1990s. Unlike the others, its vineyard area is declining as growers swap quality for quantity. By contrast, vineyard land increased by 82 percent in the Neuquén subregion and by 73 percent in the La Pampa subregion between 2002 and 2012.

Argentina’s signature red grape, Malbec, is Patagonia’s preferred variety and makes up about 40 percent of its more than 4500ha/11,000acres of cultivated vineyards. The area’s vineyards are planted between 300 and 500 meters (985 to 1,640 feet) above sea level, which allows the grapes to be cooled by Andean winds rather than altitude. Patagonia’s wide diurnal temperature swings also make it an inviting region for white varieties.

The Complex and Characterful Wines of Patagonia Wine Region

Travel Guide to Patagonia Wine Region

Patagonia is the southernmost wine-producing wine region in Argentina. This winemaking region spans the provinces of Rio NegroLa Pampa, and Neuquen. Patagonia wine region is often overlooked for viticulture as a result of its desert landscapes and cool, dry climates which do not seem suitable for the cultivation of vines. Despite this, over time Patagonia wineries have become internationally acclaimed for the production of elegant red wines made from Pinot Noir and Malbec grapes. Patagonia wine region is fast becoming one of the most well-recognized wine regions in Argentina thanks to its excellent and high-quality wines and interesting landscapes. This unique and interesting winemaking region is the perfect place to explore the best Argentinean wines.

Rio Negro and Neuquen  

The two most well-known areas of viticulture in Patagonia wine region are Rio Negro and Neuquen. The wines produced in these two regions are traditionally European in character. Neuquen is located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, while Rio Negro is located higher up on Patagonia mountains slopes.

 

RioNegro Region

Rio Negro is the most southerly wine region in South America, located in the north of the Patagonia region. The climate is cooler than in much of the rest of Argentina and elegant, cool-climate styles of Pinot NoirSauvignon Blanc and Malbec are produced here.

The Rio Negro River is formed at the convergence of the Andean meltwater rivers Neuquen and Limay and then flows 530km (310 miles) to the Atlantic Ocean in the east. In the 1820s, British colonists dug irrigation channels into the dry, arid Patagonian desert on both sides of the Negro, forming a green belt along the river that is suitable for agriculture.

While viticulture is a significant part of this, the Rio Negro is most famous for the apple and pear orchards that are found along its banks. The Rio Negro valley is divided roughly into three: the Alto Valle (in the west), the Valle Medio and the Valle Inferior (closest to the ocean).

Most viticulture takes place in the Alto Valle, around the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay, on the edge of the Neuquen province (whose western border sits on the peaks of the Andes). The mountains have little influence on the vineyards here, however; it is the river that contributes the most to the region’s terroir.

The dry climate has proved itself well suited to the growth of Vitis vinifera. Hot summers and cold winters ensure a consistency of climate that allows viticulturists a degree of predictability in the harvest.

While the altitude is very low by Argentinean standards – around 250m (820ft) above sea level – the region is still subject to a pronounced diurnal temperature variation, where warm days are followed by cold nights. This lengthens the growing season and leads to a balance of rich fruit characters and acidity in the wines.

Rio Negro’s soils are mostly alluvial, and are made up of gravel with a considerable limestone component. These are well drained, so growers are able to carefully control the water intake and growth of their vines through irrigation. Slightly parched vines put resources into producing small, concentrated berries rather than luxurious, leafy foliage.

Rio Negro is one of Argentina’s up-and-coming wine regions, and more and more producers are exploring its viticultural potential.

Rio Negro: Patagonia Wine’s Heart and Soul

If there is an epicenter to Patagonia wine, it would have to be Rio Negro, a fertile river valley which has been under vine for more than a century. As a result, Rio Negro is home to some of the oldest vineyards in the region, a feature that has attracted many of Argentina’s brightest winemaking talents.

While wine can be made just about anywhere, fine wine requires a specific set of conditions, and Rio Negro has all of them: Low humidity. Warm, dry summers. Cool nights that allow the grapes to retain acidity. Relatively austere soils poor in organic matter. The list goes on.

Rio Negro has two additional advantages not found in many other fine wine regions.

First, wind is omnipresent. Wind keeps the grapes dry, which reduces the risk of fungal disease. Second, Rio Negro’s latitude — between 38 and 42° South — means that it gets an extra hour of sunshine during the growing season than other wine regions such as Mendoza. Sunshine is critical for color and flavor development, and Rio Negro has it in abundance.

Neuquen Region

Neuquen is a very young wine-producing region on the Patagonian plains of southern Argentina. Wine has been made here on a commercial scale only since the early 2000s, but the region has already shown both significant growth and promise. The region produces wine ranging from good-value to ultra-premium, mostly from Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Officially, the province of Neuquen covers a large area of northern Patagonia, just to the south of Argentina’s most prolific wine region of Mendoza. The Andes mountain range runs up the western side of the province, separating Argentina from Chile, and the border with Rio Negro covers both the southern and eastern boundaries of Neuquen.

In practice, winemaking is contained to a area of 1,400 hectares (3,500 acres) surrounding the small town of San Patricio del Chana on the Neuquen River. Around 85 percent of grape production from the area is given over to red varieties with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir best suited to the terroir. Popular white varieties are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The first commercial vineyards in the region were planted as recently as 1999, after wine producers were encouraged by the international success of the wines of Mendoza. A large area of land on the edge of the Neuquen River was developed and planted with vines – the first large-scale vintage being released in 2003.

The pioneering winery that developed the land, Bodega del Fin del Mundo, has since sold off pockets to other premium producers, encouraging the growth of Neuquen as a wine region in the past decade.

The Neuquen viticultural region is markedly different from most of the rest of Argentina. Elevations here reach only about 300 meters (1,000feet)  above sea level – relatively low for a country where the highest vineyards are found at altitudes of around 3,000m (10,000ft). The climate is significantly cooler than in Mendoza, and the Andes, 240 kilometers (150 miles) to the west, have little to no effect on viticulture in Neuquen.

Strong desert winds and hot sun combine to provide a climate in Neuquen that is sufficiently temperate for viticulture. Warm, sunny days are followed by brisk desert nights, and the diurnal temperature variation that results extends the growing season. This allows the grapes time to develop fruit complexity without sacrificing acidity, and the wines are well balanced as a result.

This windy part of the desert is fed by the Neuquen River, which brings meltwater from the Andes to hydrate the vineyards. The stony alluvial soils are well drained, and allow root systems to grow deeply into the ground in order to access important minerals and hydration. The healthy vines that result produce high-quality grapes with an excellent concentration of sugars and acids.

6. CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the
tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

 

CV Members Rating

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

References

 https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-patagonia

https://www.winetourism.com/wine-region/patagonia/

https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/pinot-noir/koskil-pinot-noir-patagonia/p/240888750

https://vinodelsol.com/thewineries/wapisa/

https://www.plummarket.com/store/2019-wapisa-cabernet-sauvignon-patagonia-019-0.html

https://bodegahcanale.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/FICHA-HCgranReserva-Merlot-Ingl.pdf

https://winesofargentina.org/en/winery/humberto-canale

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-rio+negro

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-neuquen

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Laughing Matter:

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Tasting No 257– September 26, 2023 – Wines of Casablanca Valley, Chile

 Tasting No 257– September 26, 2023 – Wines of Casablanca Valley, Chile

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 1.Tasting Overview

Casablanca Valley is a small wine-growing region located 75 kilometers northwest of Santiago, only a few miles off the coast in central Chile, and the area falls within the Aconcagua Region. The main objective of the tasting is to explore the main types of wine produced in this area.

 

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters:  Marcello Averbug

Participants:      R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Boccalandro; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. Garcia; C. & A. Perazza; L. & J. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; P. Turina; and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

  • Veramont ‘Ritual’ Chardonnay, 2019.
  • Montsecano ‘Refugio’ Pinot Noir, 2021.
  • Montsecano, Pinot Noir, 2018.
  • Cono Sur, ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir, 2019.

 Menu

  • Grilled calamari
  • Eggplant parmegiana
  • Dark cheken with mashed potato
  • Dessert, coffee, tea

  1. The Casablanca Valley

View of the Casablanca Valley (@ wine-searcher.com)

Casablanca Valley’s first vineyards were planted in the 1980’s during the revitalization of the Chilean wine industry. The vineyards, then, expanded around the industrial town of Casablanca and vineyards now dominate the valley’s landscape, despite a lack of water for irrigation that has delayed vineyard planting.

The Valley runs for 19 miles east to west from a coastal region 30 km from the Pacific Ocean, to the neighboring region of Valparaiso. This unique geography is what makes the valley’s wines so distinctive. Until the 1980’s most vineyards were planted in warm areas, but the Casablanca Valley have an extremely cool climate.

In recent years, the Casablanca Valley has emerged as a major wine tour destination, given its proximity to the Chilean capital, the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.  

As the region is strongly influenced by the cooling effects of the Humboldt Current, which flows up the west coast of Chile from the Antarctic. Cooling afternoon breezes blow from the ocean towards the mountains in the east, filling the vacuum created by warm air rising in the east. There is plenty of cloud cover, mitigating some of the harsh summer temperatures. Grapes are able to ripen longer, resulting in much more intense and complex wines.

For the last decade Casablanca has became increasingly affected by drought, meaning it’s now more difficult to access water for irrigation. This poses a real threat to producers who are focused on high yield grape growing. The head of Matetic Vineyards says: “massive wine production will be unfeasible in Casablanca; the future lies in small wine production with focus on high quality wines”.

Given that the first vineyards were planted in the Casablanca Valley in the 1980s, the growth of this wine region has been truly spectacular. It is now known as Chile’s top white wine region, producing some of the finest Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the entire country. In addition, Pinot Noir is popular and very good. The high quality in wine production also results from the ability of growers to adhere to sustainable viticultural practices.

This duo of white varieties have given the region recognition as one of Chile’s top quality wine regions. It has attracted considerable investment from wine companies based in other Chilean regions, who were looking to boost their white wine portfolio, as well as from abroad.

It is the cooler climate that makes Casablanca’s white wines stand out from their local rivals. With a longer ripening period, the white grapes have more time to develop greater flavor complexity, while maintaining sugars and acids in balance, resulting in much more intense and complex wines.. This cool climate, while undoubtedly beneficial, is not without its dangers – crops have been seriously damaged in the past by severe frosts in spring.

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir account for 90% of grape availability in this region, while several others are produced in very small quantities.

The main vineyards of Casablanca Valley are: Mar Vineyard; Viña House Casa del Vino; Catrala Vineyard; Veramonte Vineyard; Bodega Montsecano; Viña Cono Sur; Indomita Vineyard; Casas del Bosque Vineyard; Emiliana Vineyard; William Cole Vineyard; Matetic Vineyard; Loma Larga Vineyard; Quintay Vineyard; Kingstone Vineyard; El Cuadro Vineyard; and Casa Valle Viñamar.

 

  1. Information About the Wines

Wine #1. Ritual  Chardonnay, 2019

The producer: Viñedos Veramonte was founded in 1992 and dedicated to farming organically. It is one of the pioneers of the Casablanca Valley and has been recognized for over 25 years for its distinctive wines.

In partnership with the Municipality of Casablanca, they carry out a program to benefit small rural farmers in the community, to improve the soils of their vineyards through regeneration, which included selection of beneficiaries, teamwork workshops, plot allotment, constant training in organic agriculture, and assistance with application for public funds and product sales support, among others. From the proceeds of wine sales a percentage is donated to non-profit-organization to promote regenerative agriculture aimed at increasing biodiversity, enrich soils, improve watersheds and enhance ecosystem services.

Veramonte vineyards has four brands: Veramonte and Ritual, from Casablanca, and Primus and Neyen, in Apalta, Colchagua Valley: all examples of quality Chilean wine made from organic grapes grown in their own vineyards.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal composition: 100% Chardonnay
  • Viticulture: Grapes are hand-picked at night, maximizing freshness and vibrancy with whole cluster pressing.
  • Vinification: 20% concrete eggs, 20% new 400lts barrels, 60% neutral oak. A portion of the fruit is whole cluster fermented in concrete eggs, increasing texture and fruit flavors. The rest ferments in oak barrels, delivering structure, complexity and silkiness. After fermentation, we stir the lees regularly, in order to achieve maximum expression.
  • Alcohol: 14%

Winemaker Notes: An elegant wine of yellow-green color, with expressive aromas of grapefruit, tangerine, pear and quince, and soft hazelnut notes intertwined with subtle hints of oak and vanilla. Soft, elegant and creamy texture with remarkable roundness and a long finish. Its aging in barrels provides body and complexity, which combine perfectly with its fresh, crisp and vibrant acidity. The careful work with lees gives it a soft and silky texture.

Critics scores: 91 pts. (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate); 87 pts. (Wine Enthusiasts); 93 pts. Patricio Tapia – Descorchados).

Wine #2. Montesecano, ‘Refugio’ Pinot Noir, 2021

        The producer: Bodega Montsecano is a collaboration between Ostertag of the legendary Domaine Ostertag, in Alsace, and Julio Donoso of Chile, which started in 2005. They planted 4 hectares of Pinot Noir in Las Dichas, Casablanca, and built a small winery and cellar on the property.  The vineyard is biodynamically farmed and is plowed by horse. The undergound geothermal winery is shaped like an egg, and the wine are vinified exclusively in concrete egg and stainless steel. 

Montsecano participate in the community called Raw Wine or ‘natural wine’, who grow/make/sell/drink clean wine cultivated in a clean environment – pure, fermented grape juice with few, if any, additives, grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides or fungicides. Many believe that they produce two of the most highly regarded expressions of Pinot Noir in all of Chile. 

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Varietal composition: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: single Vineyard Refugio; biodynamic farming practices
  • Vinification: 100% destemmed; native yeast; organic, élevage in concrete egg then in 5000L concrete tanks; unfiltered/unfined. Aged three months in bottle prior to release.
  • Alcohol: 12.8%

Winemaker Notes: The wine shows bright raspberry, strawberry jam, with rose petals, violets, and a light component of baking bread. Extremely vibrant with a some green notes and a light, glassy, soft and smooth mid-palate. The light tannin cradles the wine and lends itself to the refreshing acidity with a long, jam influenced finish. Dark ripe cherry and black fruits jump out of the glass with underlying raspberry fruit notes. Rich full fruit, mineral driven, with a long, generous, smooth finish.

Tasting notes: “The 2021 Refugio Pinot Noir has a bright ruby color and an expressive nose, mixing notes of flowers and a meaty touch. It has contained ripeness, good balance and a medium-bodied palate with clean and supple flavors and the granite texture in the mouthfeel. Wild Pinot Noir.” (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate)

A pretty nose of cherries, strawberries, plums, smoke, cedar and violets. Medium-to full-bodied with fine, silky tannins and vibrant acidity. Focused and textured with chiseled character and a flavorful, spicy finish.

Critics scores: 94 pts. (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate); 94 pts. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados)

 

Wine #3. Montsecano Pinot Noir, 2018

The producer: Bodega Montsecano

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2018
  • Varietal composition:100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: vineyard Montsecano; biodynamic farming practices;
  • Vinification: native yeast; organic, élevage in concrete egg then in 5000L concrete tanks;     unfiltered/unfined
  • Alcohol: 12%

      Winemaker Notes: From the same producer Bodega Montsecano, this 100% biodynamic hand harvested, single vineyard Pinot Noir is fermented  and aged entirely in stainless steel and concrete eggs. Dark ripe cherry and black fruits jump out of the glass with underlying raspberry fruit notes. A condensed and dark spiraling mid-palate shows layers of minerality and complexity, with hints of wet crushed rock (granite), sage, clove and blueberry . Rich full fruit, mineral driven, with a long, generous, smooth finish.

Tasting notes: ”the wine has a moderate 12% alcohol, reflecting the character of the year and the earlier picking, with red acid berry aromas, a floral touch and  depth and complexity. It’s subtle, has detail and elegance and is clean and focused, with very fine tannins and a very balanced palate with integrated acidity. It’s harmonious and elegant.” (Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate).

The nose is spectacular, a mix of wild herbs, flowers and berries, some rose petals and even a touch of citrus peel, coming through as aromatic and fresh. The palate is perhaps a tad lighter than previous vintages and perhaps a little more “natural.” But it has very good complexity, developing aromas of violets with time in the glass, and it has lots of freshness and balance.

Critics scores: 95 pts. (Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate); 95 Pts. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados);     92 pts. (Tim Atkin)

 

Wine #4. Cono Sur ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir, 2019

      The producer: Viña Cono Sur was founded in 1993 by Viña Concha y Toro in 1993 and is based in Cochagua Valley with the vision of an independent winery with a focus on premium, sustainable wines. Cono Sur prides itself on its pioneering and innovative spirit. It is particularly notable for its wines made from Pinot Noir, and in particular the flagship Ocio, but makes a range of wines from many of Chile’s key grape varieties. The estate has grown considerably since, and now Cono Sur makes wines in most of Chile’s key winegrowing regions. However, Cono Sur’s most important region is arguably the Casablanca Valley, where the Pinot Noir grapes for the Ocio wine are sourced. They were the first in Chile to produce and export Premium Pinot Noir.

 The wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal composition: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: Vineyards Triángulo (85%) and San Antonio (15%); sandy clay soils, benefit from the cool maritime climate, retaining acidity while developing rich varietal character. Grapes are hand-harvested, hand-selected and crushed.
  • Vinification: uncrushed grapes underwent a one-week cold soak and then were foot trodden and inoculated with selected yeasts. Grapes are fermented and then put in new French oak barrels for malolactic for 8 months and then spent another 6-8 months- 70% in same barrels and 30% in 2000L foudre. Then wine is rested in stainless steel tanks for 4-8 weeks before being bottled and released.
  • Alcohol: 14 %

Winemaker Notes: A deep ruby red, this iconic Pinot Noir has great aromatic intensity expressing notes of red fruits and berries, with a touch of spices and tobacco. In mouth it is smooth and elegant, with a refined concentration and acidity. This wine pairs beautifully with red meats, duck, tuna and aged cheeses.

In “Robert Parker’s” opinion it has good freshness and balance. This wine is produced with the advice of French winemaker Martin Prieur from Burgundy. It’s akin to a modern Burgundy, with generous oak, some toasty notes and notes of orange peel and ripe cherries. It has kept vibrant acidity and comes through as medium to full-bodied with fine-grained tannins. It was bottled in June 2020. It has concentration, acidity and freshness to develop nicely in bottle.  Best After 2022.

Critics scores: 94 pts. (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate); 94 pts. (Tim Atkin); 94 pts. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados).

 

CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 16 participants rated them from Acceptable to Excellent. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.

Cono Sur ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir 2019 was rated as Best Wine and Veramonte ‘Ritual Chardonnay 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

REFERENCES:

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

https://www.conosur.com/en/

https://ritualwines.cl/

https://www.bowlerwine.com/producer/montsecano


Collection of pictures of Vineyards of Casablanca as presented by Marcelo Averbug

Main Vineyards of Casablanca Valley, Chile

Estimados amigos,

Al investigar los vinos de Casablanca descubrí que la mayoría de los viñedos de esta región son bastante lujosos y modernos. Por eso, además del blog del Club, pensé que sería importante destacar fotos de algunos de estos viñedos.

Ver la página adjunta en .pdf.

Vineyards of Casablanca

Marcelo Averbug

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