While Tuscany is mostly known for the Chianti and Sangiovese based wines, this tasting is devoted to wines that are mostly based on other grapes.
Type of tasting: Open
Presenter: Jorge Requena
Participants: S. Ardila; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñán; M. Fryer; J. García; A. C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; J. Requena; R. Santiago; P. Turina; G. Zincke and Y. Cutler (guest).
2. These are the wines:
Terre di Talamo ‘Vento Teso’, Viognier, 2022
Batzella Bolgheri ‘Tam’ Super Tuscan, 2017
Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso Tuscany, 2021
Caiarossa Rosso di Toscana IGT, 2019.
The Menu
Seafood salad,
Veal Ravioli in aurora sauce
Grilled steak in brown mushroom sauce with grilled vegetables
Coffee and dessert.
The Tuscany Region
Tuscany stretches from the Tyrrhenian Sea in the west to the low mountains that separate the region from Emilia-Romagna, the Marche, and Umbria, its neighbors to the east. At nearly 9,000 square miles (23,300 square kilometers), it is the fifth largest region in Italy. Yet most of the important wine zones are more or less in the middle of the region, from Florence in the north to Siena in the center and then south to the tiny hill town of Montalcino (famous for Brunello).
The Tuscany region is roughly 68% hills. The paucity of flat land means that nearly every vineyard is on a slope of some kind, gentle or steep, and that even two vineyards that are only a stone’s throw apart often produce wines of very different character.
The climate in this central zone is warm, although not as warm or humid as along the Tyrrhenian coast. Nights are cool, helping to preserve the natural acidity of the grapes, particularly in sangiovese. Soil varies considerably, but the well-drained slopes of the central hills tend to be sandy or stony, calcareous, and interspersed with schist and galestro (a crumbly, stony marl).
The region’s top wines are officially recognized and protected by a raft of 41 DOC and 11 DOCG titles. There are six more flexible IGP/IGT designations, including the pan-regional Toscana IGT.
Tuscany is renowned for its Chianti and Sangiovese-based wines, but beyond these traditional wines, Tuscany is also recognized for a diverse array of other exceptional wines that highlight the region’s versatile terroir and innovative winemaking.
The region has become famous for its “Super Tuscans”, a category of high-quality wines that often break traditional DOC/DOCG regulations by incorporating international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. These wines emerged in the late 20th century, as winemakers sought to experiment and elevate the quality of their wines. Notable examples of such wines include Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Ornellaia, that blend traditional Sangiovese with these international varietals.
Super Tuscans are typically aged in new French oak barrels, which impart additional complexity and elegance, characterized by bold flavors, smooth tannins, and impressive longevity.
One of the notable wine appellations of Tuscany that has gained prominence in recent years is Bolgheri, located along the Tuscan coast. Bolgheri’s unique terroir, characterized by its proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea, mild climate, and diverse soils – including clay, limestone, and sand – provides an ideal environment for growing international grape varieties. Bolgheri is particularly celebrated for its Bordeaux-style blends, featuring Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Iconic wines from this region have set a new standard for Italian winemaking, combining the elegance and structure of Bordeaux with the distinctive character of Tuscany.
Sassicaia, the most famous of the Super Tuscan red wines, was added to the Bolgheri DOC in 1994. This appellation had been established for white wines only a decade earlier. The estate now has its own Bolgheri Sassicaia designation for its reds.
Another significant appellation in Tuscany is the Maremma Toscana , which has been gaining attention for its innovative and high-quality wines. Maremma’s varied microclimates and fertile soils support a wide range of grape varieties. Vermentino, a white grape variety that thrives in Maremma’s coastal climate, produces wines with vibrant acidity, floral aromas, and crisp citrus flavors, often with a saline minerality imparted by the sea breeze. Maremma also excels in producing robust reds from varieties like Alicante (Grenache) and Syrah, which showcase intense fruit flavors, spice, and balanced tannins. The region’s commitment to sustainable and organic farming practices further enhances the quality and distinctiveness of its wines.
Information about the Wines
Wine #1 Terre Di Talamo ‘Vento Teso’ Viognier, 2022 (IGT)
Producer: Terre di Talamo winery is located south of Grosseto on the coast of Tuscany, in the Morellino di Scnasano. The 52-hectare estate is on a hillside facing the sea, with 32 hectares planted. The wide range of soil types at Terre di Talamo has led to its being dubbed “minestrone soil”.
The Wine:
Vintage: 2022
Varietal: 100% Viognier
Region/appellation: Toscana IGT.
Vinification: grapes grown without the use of irrigation, herbicides or pesticides; all the grapes are grown organically. The wine ferments in stainless steel tanks.
Alcohol: 14% APV
Tasting notes: The nose has notes of white flowers, apricot, melon, lemon curd. On the palate the flavors are honeysuckle, jasmine, apricot, peaches, yellow cherries, acacia flowers, melon skin undertone.
Fruity nose of pineapple, guava, grapefruit and fresh herbs. Medium-bodied, juicy and succulent, with crisp acidity. Touch of white pepper bringing some dryness to the fruit at the end. From organically grown grapes.
Producer: The Batzella winery is located in Bolgheri on the central Tuscan coast. It was founded in 2000 by Khanh Nguyen and Franco Batzella. The owners are committed to producing elegant and authentic wines, with personalities that best express the character of the region.
The wine is called Tâm, a Vietnamese term meaning passion, and reflects the passion that drives the owners in the search for a balance between power and elegance for this cuvée. The motif of the label was taken from the Chinese calligraphic representation which also means heart and passion.
The Wine:
Vintage: 2017
Composition/Varietal: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc
Region/appellation: Bolgueri DOC.
Vinification: The harvest, entirely manual, generally takes place in September for the red grapes. The wine ferments in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 12–18 days. The wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barriques and then at least 18 months in the bottle.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Tasting notes: Deep ruby red color, the nose has notes of ripe black fruits (blackberries), underbrush, smoke, mint, licorice, roasting. In the mouth it has good structure, and concentration with balanced and elegant tannins and a long finish.
Rich, impenetrable ruby-purple. Opens on the nose with lots of dark berry fruit, cassis and tobacco and earthy notes in the background. Develops well on the palate with grippy, layered tannins, dark berry fruit and lots of tobacco, firm and grippy on the finish
Wine #3. Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso DOC, 2021
Producer: Le Macchiole is one of the historic wineries in Bolgheri, dating back to the beginning of the 1980s, and over the years it has become a reference point for quality Tuscan wine. The founders Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli were among the region’s pioneers, and they contributed in a significant way to Bolgheri’s growing fame, thanks to their work in creating wines full of character and personality that have become a symbol of the region. The Estate is located in Bolgheri, on the on the Etruscan Coast between the hills and the sea. The characteristics of the land together with the dry, gently ventilated climate, the temperatures that are slightly lower than the rest of the Tuscan coast, and the unique brightness of the area all contribute to the definition of a typically Mediterranean environment particularly well-suited to growing varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah.
Vinification: Harvest period: from 3rd week of August to middle of September. Fermentation and maceration for about 15 days in steel tanks. Aged for 10 months, 70% in oak barriques 3rd and 4th use, 30% in concrete vats.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Tasting notes: Intense fresh fruity notes on the nose and a slimmer texture, with firm yet very gentle tannins and an acid backbone that brings an amazing balance to the wine.
On the nose, sweet, slightly tart aromas of cherries and blackberries are balanced by a stony, spicy earthiness. That interplay between tart fruit and sanguine earthiness continues on the palate, creating the sensation of a breath of fresh spring air after the rain, before chalky tannins and bright acid usher in a bitter, peppery finish.
Pure and expressive, this red wine features cherry, raspberry and blackberry flavors augmented by iron, spice and light herb accents. Sleek and elegant, with a succulent profile and excellent persistence on the finish.
Wine #4. Caiarossa Rosso di Toscana 2019 (IGT)
Producer: Caiarossa winery was created in 1998 on the rolling hillsides of Riparbella at Podere Serra All’Olio, situated southeast of the city of Pisa. The estate is part of an area owned for centuries by the De Medici family. The winery is located in the Val di Cecina region, on 16 hectares of mild slopes with views of the sea. From roughly 40 hectares of vines, it produces a range of regional Tuscan wines that largely fall under the Toscana IGT classification. The vines comprise three main vineyards: the original Podere Serra all’Olio at Caiarossa, Le Lame – the most southerly part- and an extensive parcel on the slopes of Monte di Nocola, known as Nocolino.
The estate’s flagship Caiarossa ToscanaIGT wine was first produced in 2003 and is a blend of seven red grape varieties. In 2004, Caiarossa was acquired by Eric Albada Jelgersma, who was searching for an Italian counterpart for his prestigious historic estate in Margaux Cru Classé properties, Chateau Giscours and Chateau du Tertre.
The Wine:
Vintage: 2019
Composition/Varietals: 26% Syrah, 24% Cabernet Franc, 23% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Sangiovese and 2% Grenache.
Region/appellation: Toscana IGT.
Vinification: The grapes are harvested by hand from the Podere Serra all’Olio vineyard from September 5th through the 21st. All the different plots and varieties are vinified separately in concrete tanks and wooden ‘truncated cones’ (troncoconici di legno), with slow fermentations and soft extractions.
Aging: Once the malolactic
fermentation is completed, the wines selected for Caiarossa are blended. Then it ages approximately 14 months in French oak barriques prior to bottling.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Tasting notes: This Caiarossa vintage displays vibrant, concentrated fruit, framed by an elegant mineral note of ground limestone. The wine expresses aromas of black cherry and sweet blackberry, as well as presenting delicious notes of tobacco leaf and dried leather. But the notes of candied cherry and raspberry are revealed with such distinction, they highlight the warmth of this vintage. Tannins are very present but their texture is smooth and the finish long, extending over some beautiful sour notes.
The Caiarossa 2019 Caiarossa is a complex blend featuring Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, and Alicante. The wine is balanced and fresh with thick layers of dark fruit, crushed stone, tobacco and exotic spice.
The Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil, Workman Publishing, New York, 2015.
CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 15 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting as follows: – Caiarossa Rosso di Toscana IGT, 2019 was rated the Best Wine and the white Terre di Talamo – ‘Vento Teso’, Viognier, 2022 the Best Buy. The Best Buy among the reds was Batzella Bolgheri ‘Tam’ Super Tuscan, 2017.
The following Table presents the details of ratings and combined results.
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Wine Jokes from WINCARTA
You know that red meat pairs well with an Amarone. You know that a Muscat complements a nice piece of fish. But, do you know what goes best with wine of any hue?
Laughter.
No matter the wine, it is best served with good times. In fact, we’d argue that nothing tastes better than that feeling you get with good company and good conversation. Lots of psychological factors affect the taste of wine. Perhaps a good joke will help too.
When the wine flows, so too does the conversation. But, if you find it running dry, here are some of our favorite wine jokes you can use to get back on track.
Your dad’s wine jokes
What did the grape say when the elephant stood on it? Nothing, it just let out a little wine.
I’ve trained my dog to bring me a glass of red wine. It’s a Bordeaux collie.
I’m a wine enthusiast. The more wine I drink, the more enthusiastic I get.
I was having wine with my wife when she said ‘I love you so much, you know. I don’t know how I could ever live without you.’ I said, ‘Is that you or the wine talking?’ She said, ‘It’s me talking to the wine.’
Love the wine you’re with.
What do you call a wine hangover? The grape depression.
What’s the secret to enjoying a good bottle of wine? Open the bottle to let it breathe. If it doesn’t look like it’s breathing, give it mouth-to-mouth.
If you can drink away your hurt, it must have been champagne.
Wine improves with age. I improve with wine.
How do you decide how much wine to drink? Take it on case-by-case basis.
What do you call a grape that is an anti-diuretic? Pinot More.
Did you know wine doesn’t make you fat? It makes you lean…against tables, chairs, floors, walls and ugly people.
It’s funny how 8 glasses of water a day seems impossible but 8 glasses of wine is a sign of a good meal.
The first thing on my bucket list? To fill the bucket with wine.
We have an open-door policy. Show up with wine, and we’ll open the door.
The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the Campania region, particularly the unique and intriguing indigenous wines grown in the same volcanic soils that buried Pompeii.
Type of tasting: Open
Presenters: Cristian Santelices, Jorge Claro y Luis Uechi
Participants: R. Arroio; M. Averbug; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñán; J. García; A. and Claudia Perazza; J. Requena; R Santiago; G. Smart; L. Uechi; R. Gutiérrez (guest) and E. Bernal-Labrada (guest).
These are the wines:
Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC, 2021
Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio Rosso, 2022
Caprese Salad w/Garden Pesto on the side (Pairs particularly well with the aromatic and acidic Falanghina wine of Campania)
Traditional Lasagna (great to pair with Piedirosso and Aglianico)
Grilled lamb chops w/brown sauce (great to pair with Aglianico and Piedirosso)
Dessert, coffee, tea
The Campania Wine Region
Campania – its name comes from “Campania felix”, a Latin phrase roughly meaning “fertile / happy land” – is the wine region that forms the shin of Italy’s boot, facing the Tyrrhenian Sea, best known for its impressive coastline and tourism. Tourists know Campania for the city of Naples (Napoli, the spiritual home of Pizza), the ruins of Pompeii, the towering Mount Vesuvius and its hillsides lined with lemon groves, olive trees and grapevines, the isle of Capri, and the beautiful Amalfi Coast.
Although this southern region doesn’t yet enjoy the same reputation for great wines as Tuscany, Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto or Sicilia, Campania produces unique and intriguing indigenous wines, many of which are grown in the same volcanic soils that buried Pompeii.
Terroir and Production Areas. The region boasts a rich volcanic soil that is highly nutritious and perfect for grape cultivation. This soil is primarily made up of dark volcanic sand, pumice, and lapillus, which give the wine its smoky and mineral notes. It is also rich in potassium, which enhances the wine’s sweetness. To take full advantage of the sun’s rays, the vineyards are situated at an elevation of 400 – 700 meters above sea level. The region enjoys a Mediterranean climate, featuring hot and dry summers and mild, wet winters. The frequent breezes from the mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea create the ideal microclimate for vines to flourish. The region’s soils and climate, with long warm growing season, combine to produce powerful and concentrated red wines and aromatic, minerally white wines from native varieties.
In 2022, Campania had 25,600 hectares of registered vineyards, producing almost 1.5 million hL of wine (49% white and 51% red) – 19% of it at the DOP and 11% at the IGT level. The region accounts only for a tiny fraction (~0.6%) of Italy’s DOP wine production, but includes 4 DOCGs (5% of Italy’s 77 official DOCG appellations); 15 DOC (4.5% of Italy’s 332 official DOC appellations) and 10 IGTs (8.5% of Italy’s 119 IGTs). (See more information regarding the various classifications of Italian wine labels in the following links: “Decoding Italian Wine Labels: Understanding BIO, IGP, DOP, IGT, DOC, DOCG, and VdT” and “The Pyramid of Italian Wines”.
The region’s 4 DOCGs are Taurasi and Aglianico del Taburno for red wines, and Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo for whites. These highest quality designations are all around Avellino, where the soils are filled with tuff or volcanic rocks. Intriguing wines made from Falanghina and Piedirosso are also particularly noteworthy.
The main grapes are Aglianico, Piedirosso (reds), Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, Biancolella, Asprinio and Coda di Volpe (whites). White and rosé wines have aromas of almond, peaches, pineapple, and citrus, and are consumed young. Red wines need aging to develop mineral and smoky aromas and flavors of red fruit.
History of Viticulture in Campania. Campania has strong historical links to wine and vine, dating back to the 12th Century BC, and is one of Italy’s very oldest wine regions. The considerable influence of ancient empires, including the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines, means some of this region’s varieties have historical legends attached. The area was the playground of the Roman elite and famous for producing Falerno (Falernum), a strong white wine popular in the classical Roman period, produced from Aglianico grapes and one of the most ancient wines in Italy.
In this context, it is worthwhile a note on the Vesuvio sub-region – also known as Mt. Vesuvius- that is home to wines of explosive flavor and historical controversy: the area has an ancient winemaking tradition that thrived during the Roman Empire. The sub-region’s wines were exported outside Italy and favored by the Romans, especially the Emperors. Wine-making practices in the area improved during this period of enological splendor. Vesuvio’s legendary eruption of 79 AD destroyed the wealthy, coastal towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum, though vines and enological tradition remained rooted. Today, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC is the wine produced with the native grapes of Mt. Vesuvius, which were already being cultivated prior to ancient Roman times, and are red, white, or rosé with similar colors and flavors to classic Campania wines.
During the early part of the first millennium, the Villa Augustea situated at the foot of Mount Somma – near Mt. Vesuvio – was a major center for wine production. Pagan farmers would gather at the hall of this location to ceremoniously stomp by feet communal grapes, which were then stored in “dolios”, amphora clay vessels, to age. Dolios of Vesuvio wine have been discovered in parts of northern Africa and even India, revealing that Vesuvio wine production was once prized throughout Europe and the known wine world. Vesuvius’s slopes were home to many vineyards which produced wine. This suggests that there was extensive cultivation in the area. Bacchus, the god of wine, was a common theme in many Roman art pieces, including frescoes found in houses of Pompeii that were preserved after the volcanic eruption. The DOP denomination comes from an emblematic place for the history of wine production in this area: ancient Pompeii. The archaeological remains are a testimony to its origins and great tradition. Currently there are sustained efforts to inspire a reawakening among Vesuvian producers by reestablishing traditional winemaking techniques, native grapes, and historic terroirs – for instance, the one leading by The Vesuvio Wine Protection Consortium.
Among the most prized Vesuvio wines, the tittle Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio is an ancient wine made popular by monks in the Middle Ages. With a history that dates back to ancient Roman times, there are many myths surrounding the name of this wine. One such legend relates the simple story of when Jesus ascended into heaven, and on casting his eyes over the beautiful Bay of Naples, he wept tears of joy, which fell upon Mount Vesuvius causing vines to grow. Another myth tells of Christ weeping onto the land over the casting out of Lucifer and the fallen angels. In a variation of this tale, angry that they were forced to leave, Lucifer and the fallen angels took a piece of Heaven with them which landed on Mount Vesuvius, leading to tears of sadness from God. The Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio received the DOC name only in 1983 despite its centuries-old history. Wine is produced with native grapes in the province of Naples within the Vesuvius National Park. The varieties Caprettone and Coda di Volpe are used (minimum 85%) for Lacryma Christi Bianco and other white grape varieties recommended for the province of Naples, and Piedirosso used for Lacryma Christi Rosé and Rosso (minimum 85%) and Aglianico.
Today’s wine styles: Aglianico is the dominant red grape variety (34% of total winegrape production) and Falanghina in its whites – can range from fruit forward and youthful to robust and well-structured. The whites are known for their aromatic characters, often redolent of the local flora. The reds have big personalities that require a little aging.
Despite being ensconced in tradition, dynamic and innovative methods have helped improve the quality of Campania’s wines, specifically through better vineyard management, harvesting methods and cellar techniques. A particularly notable name in the world of Campania wine is the Mastroberardino family (See more details on wines #2 and #4 below).
Wine #1. Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC, 2021
The Producer: Feudi di San Gregorio winery was established in 1986 in Sorbo Serpico, a small village near Mount Vesuvius in Campania’s Irpinia region. They specialize in using indigenous grapes to create unique and modern Mediterranean flavors. The Falanghina wine, named after the ancient vine cultivation method in Sannio that used Falangs (“poles”), is perfect as an aperitif and can be paired with various appetizers, simple fish and vegetable dishes, and fresh cheeses.
Viticulture: The vine cultivation follows an ancient method that used Falangs (poles)
Vinification: Grape clusters carefully hand picked by hand and transported in 18kg crates to winery at 50°F (10°C); clusters gently pressed, cold settling process at 57° ̊F (14°C) that lasts for 24-48 hours. Cold fermentation for about 5 months in stainless steel vats between 61-64°F (16-18°C); no malolactic fermentation. Aged for 5 months in stainless steel tanks in contact with its lees with an additional month in bottle prior to release.
Alcohol: 13%
Tasting Notes: Upon first sip, this wine has a medium-intensity mouthfeel accompanied by crisp minerality. Hints of spice, light almond, and a slightly bitter orange peel character can be detected. The pretty floral notes and soft fruit flavors are fresh throughout the finish, and they are in perfect balance with the mouthwatering acidity.
Style: crisp, fresh; aroma with floral notes, like white blossoms, and delicate apple and pear; Color is straw yellow with brilliant green reflections.
Wine #2. Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio DOC, 2022
The Producer: Mastroberardino Societá Agricola SRL is one of Campania’s most renowned wineries. It was established in the 1870s in the town of Altripalda and the family’s vineyards spread across several parts of Campania’s Irpinia region, near the base of Mount Vesuvius. Antonio Mastroberardino, the 9th generation of his family, brought international recognition to their winery in Irpinia. After returning home from World War II, he rebuilt his family’s business from ruins and dedicated plantings to three nearly extinct ancient Campanian grape varietals: Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico. His decision has since shaped all Campanian wine production efforts and sparked a resurgence in the production of high-quality red and white wines in Southern Italy. Today, the winery is recognized as the most important guardian of the viticultural and oenological heritage of the Roman age. The winery has been appointed by the “Presidenza della Repubblica” to reintroduce vine growing in the ancient city of Pompeii.
Vinification: The grapes are carefully hand-harvested in October, are vinified with maceration on the skins for approximately 6 days, then fermented in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures (25°-28°C). The wine is aged for about 6 months in small oak barrels, and refined in the bottle for one month before release for sale.
Alcohol: 12.5%
Wine overview: Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio Rosso is a ruby-red wine, known for its intense aroma of cherries, plums, raspberries, and black pepper. The wine has refined light tannins and a bright acidity, which gives it a refreshing and fruity character.
Crafted by the renowned winemaker Massimo Di Renzo, this wine is an excellent representation of the Vesuvio DOC terroir. The vineyards are located below Mount Vesuvius and are nourished by the mineral-rich volcanic ash and lapilli. This results in loose soils rich in minerals and well-draining, which contributes to the unique characteristics of the wine.
Style: Dry, notes of cherries, plums, raspberries, and black pepper; Color is ruby-red.
Pairings: salumi, tomato, and meat-based sauces, or pizza Margherita.
The Producer: Taurasi Aglianico DOCG is a fine red wine produced by Donnachiara SRL, a female-led winery established in 2005 in Montefalcione. The company – with over 150 years of expertise and modern production since 2005 – has a family-driven commitment to quality and a deep sense of responsibility to unearth Irpinia’s potential. Donnachiara is a female-led winery established in 2005 in Montefalcione. The company has a family-driven commitment to quality and a deep sense of responsibility. With over 150 years of expertise and modern production since 2005, Donnachiara is more than just a business. Led by CEO Ilaria Petitto, the winery is focused on unearthing Irpinia’s winemaking potential.
Vinification: grapes are hand picked in November, carefully selected, and softly pressed. Maceration on the skins for 20 days followed by malolactic fermentation for about 12 months in French barriques, and refined in the bottle for 12 months before release for sale.
Alcohol content: 13.5%
Style: Dry, with elegant estructure and great persistence; aroma with notes of blackberry, blueberry, smoke, and coffee; Color is ruby-red with purple notes.
The grape overview: Aglianico is an ancient grape variety that originated in Italy where it was first planted near modern-day Pozzuoli. From there, it spread to other parts of Campania. Wine made from Aglianico was known as Falernian and was highly regarded by the Romans. Until the 15th century, the Aglianico grape was known as Elenico, which means Greek in Italian. The name was later changed to Aglianico, which might have come from the Latin phrase “vita hellenica,” meaning Greek wine. There are 3 biotypes of Aglianico: Taurasi, Vulture and Taburno (each sub-region has a decidedly different expression of the wine, but the volcanic soils are what ties them all together). Aglianico has an uncle-nephew relationship with Syrah. The Aglianico grape thrives in volcanic soil at altitudes of 300-500 meters. As a black, late-ripening grape, it is also used in Campania as a blending grape.
Tasting notes: The wine has blackberry, blueberry, smoke, and coffee notes. It will become a great wine with more bottle age and can last for 15 to 20 years. The 2019 vintage had great climatic conditions, a large crop, very good acidity, and won many awards.
There are many who believe that the three great grape varieties in Italy are Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Aglianico. Wines made from the Aglianico grape are full-bodied with good fruit, tannins, and hints of blackberries, leather and smoke. Elegant structure with great persistence. Pair with pasta, steak, roast game, and long-aged cheese.
Ageing: Grapes are manually picked at the end of October and early November. The vinification process is classic, with a maceration period of around 25 days on the skins, at a controlled temperature of 22° – 24°C. The wine is then aged for approximately 30 months in French and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by at least 40 months of aging in the bottle.
Wine overview: The 20 year “Mirabella Eclano vineyards” are South-West facing, at an altitude 500-650m. Deep and sandy loam soils include traces of limestone, clay, and some volcanic matter and are well-draining. The red wine is made using the classic vinification process.
Tasting notes: The wine is a deep ruby red with intense flavors of cherry, wild berries, spice, plum, black cherry, and strawberry. It pairs well with mature cheeses, truffles, mushrooms, ragout, and roasted red meats.
Style is full, complex estructure, this elegant wine has flavors of plum, black cherry, strawberry and intense spices; aroma notes of cherry, violet, wild berries, and a distinctive spicy aroma; color: Intense ruby-red
The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 13 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting as follows:
Mastroberardino, Radici Taurasi Riserva DOCG, 2017 was rated the Best Wine and the white Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC, 2021 the Best Buy. The Best Buy among the reds was Donnachiara, Taurasi Aglianico DOCG, 2019. The following Table presents the details of ratings and combined results.
The main objective of this tasting is to explore the wines from the Piedmont area, particularly the famous Barolo and Barbera wines.
Type of tasting: open.
Presenters: José Brakarz, Raimundo Arroio and Marcia Bebiano Simões
Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. García; A. and Claudia Perazza; C. Santelices; M. Simões; P. Turina; L. Uechi; and P. Belli (guest).
The Wines:
Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis, 2022
D. Vajra Barolo Albe, 2019
Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella, 2020
Paolo Scavino Barolo Prapo, 2019.
Menu
Portobello al Forno
Linguini Frutti di Mare
Beef Medallions with Brown Sauce and Sauteed Potatoes
Dessert, coffee, tea.
The Piedmont Region
Located in the northwestern corner of Italy, Piedmont (“Foot of the Mountain”) is a region renowned for its exceptional wines. It is a picturesque area with a rich viticultural heritage.
Terroir and Production Areas: Piedmont, the heart of Italian winemaking, has a diverse landscape— comprising hills (30.3%), plains (26.4%), and mountains (43.3%)—which creates a unique terroir that influences its wines.
The region has a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers, along with significant temperature variations, which allows for late-ripening varieties like Nebbiolo to thrive. Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of the Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piemonte’s villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero.
Distinct Production Areas: of Italy’s 20 major wine regions, Piedmont ranks 6th in production volume. It is known for high quality and produces more DOCG designated wines than any other region. In Piedmont there are a total of 59 subregions (including Barolo, Gabiano, Barbera d’Asti, etc.) and the name of these subregions is listed prominently on Piedmont wine labels (often noted alongside the variety). These are some key production areas:
Langhe: Nestled between the provinces of Cuneo and Asti, the Langhe region produces some of Piedmont’s most iconic red wines:
Barolo DOCG: Known as the “King of Wines,” Barolo is made from Nebbiolo grapes. It boasts complex flavors, robust tannins, and aging potential.
Barbaresco DOCG: Another Nebbiolo-based gem, Barbaresco offers elegance, floral notes, and a slightly earlier maturation than Barolo.
Dolcetto d’Alba and Barbera d’Alba: These approachable reds showcase fruity profiles and pair wonderfully with local cuisine.
Roero: East of the Tanaro River, Roero is famous for its white wine:
Roero Arneis DOCG: Made from the indigenous Arneis grape, this crisp and aromatic white wine is a delightful companion to seafood and appetizers.
Monferrato: The largest production area in Piedmont, Monferrato spans the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. Notable wine appellations include:
Barbera d’Asti DOCG: A lively red with bright acidity, perfect for everyday enjoyment.
Gattinara DOCG: A Nebbiolo-based wine from the northern part of Piedmont.
Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG: A rare red with floral and spicy notes.
Asti Spumante DOCG: A sweet sparkling wine made from Moscato grapes.
Gavi DOCG: Crisp and mineral-driven white wine crafted from Cortese grapes.
Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC: An intriguing white wine with depth and character.
Other gems include:
Alta Langa DOCG: Its sparkling wines compete with the best in the world.
Nizza DOCG: Produces robust Barbera wines.
Terre Alfieri DOCG: Known for its reds and whites.
Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC: An ancient grape variety making a comeback.
Piedmont’s wines reflect centuries of tradition, dedication, and a deep connection to the land. Whether you savor a bold Barolo or a refreshing Arneis, each bottle tells a story of passion and craftsmanship!
History of Viticulture in Piedmont.
The roots of Piedmont’s winemaking tradition can be traced back to ancient times. The Celtic-Ligurian peoples who inhabited the region around the 6th century BC, were the early vintners, tending to vineyards and nurturing the grapevines. These ancient inhabitants recognized the potential of Piedmonts’ soil and climate for wine production. The Romans cultivated native vines in this fertile land, which they aptly called Oenotrua (meaning “land of vines”).
As the Middle Ages unfolded, attention shifted toward defining the most suitable wine production areas. Barbesino, found its roots in the Monferrato region. Meanwhile, Nebbiolo vines took hold in Turin and Upper Piedmont. These early choices laid the groundwork for the iconic wines that would emerge centuries later.
Birth of Barolo and Barbaresco: In the 19th century, ‘Piemontese’ red wines began to evolve into their modern expressions: Barolo, based on Nebbiolo grapes, came into existence around 1830. The Marquises Falletti and Count Camillo Benso di Cavour played pivotal roles in its creation. Not long after, Barbaresco—another magnificent expression of Nebbiolo—was born. Domizio Cavazza, founder of the Cantine Sociali di Barbaresco, contributed to its legacy.
Challenges and Renaissance: The 20th century brought challenges – World Wars, rural exodus, and migration to the Americas – which led to a decline in viticulture. In the 1980s, the region experienced a renaissance. Inspired by Burgundy and Bordeaux, winemakers embraced modern techniques, aiming for more elegant and balanced wines.
With its proximity to France, Piedmont has been influenced by French viticulture, particularly from regions like Burgundy. This influence is evident today in the varietal styles of most Piedmonts’ wines, which often emphasize single grape varieties with minimal blending.
Piedmont’s Main Wine Varieties (DOCG)
White and Sparkling Wines
Although Piedmont is best known for its red varieties, there are some significant white wines produced in the region, such as: Gavi DOCG and the Roero Arneis DOCG (present in this tasting), the “Derthona” Colli Tortonesi DOCG obtained from Timorasso grapes; the Asti DOCG sparkling wine, Moscato d’Asti DOCG and the Arbaluce di Caluso DOCG. Out of the many other denominations in the Piedmont area, the Roero DOCG wines, also made with Nebbiolo grapes, has a completely different identity, with its distinguishing aromatic characteristics given by geographical and climatic conditions, as well as vinification techniques. The geographical position and soil composition distinguishes Roero from its counterparts, as it is located on the left bank of the Tanaro River, while Barolo and Barbaresco are on the right margin. Usually, the left margin is more arid, and its soil has high limestone clay and sand. This composition gives the grapes a particular mineral terroir, highly appreciated for with wines.
BAROLO
Among the ‘Piemontese’ DOCG wines, Barolo is certainly the most iconic. Barolo was born in the Langhe region in the 19th Century, from the vineyards of the Marquis Tancredi Falletti and Giulia Colbert Falletti of Barolo thanks to Paolo Francesco Staglieno, who produced the estate’s first dry version Nebbiolo in 1830 and thus became the pioneer of ‘Piemontese’ enology.
Barolo immediately became a noble and appreciated wine, so much so that it became the spokesman of Piedmont and the Savoy in all the courts of Europe, also thanks to the support of Count Camillo Benso di Cavour and King Vittorio Emanuele II.
This iconic red wine is produced in the Province of Cuneo, near Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba and in part of the municipalities of La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Roddi, Verduno, Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Novello and Grinzane Cavour.
Barolo is produced from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and requires a minimum aging of 38 months (18 of which in wood barrels). It can add the mention “Riserva” after 5 years of aging. It is considered one of the longest-lived wines in the world, thanks also to the strong tannic component of Nebbiolo, and is expressed differently according to the areas, crus and vintages.
Generally, it appears as a garnet red wine, with intense and elegant aromas of flowers and ripe fruit, often with tertiary notes of spices and tar. In the mouth it has great intensity and persistence, all accompanied by a great acid-tannic balance.
Perfect in combination with well-structured dishes, Barolo is also an excellent meditation wine – a wine to be appreciated on its own – especially if dated and of a good vintage.
BARBARESCO
Among the ‘Piemontese’ DOCG wines, Barbaresco is one of the most famous and appreciated in the world. Barbaresco DOCG is a ‘Piemontese’ red wine typical of the Langhe, produced in the province of Cuneo in the municipalities of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and in the hamlet of “San Rocco” in the Province of Alba. The terroir of this DOCG is typically hilly with calcareous-clayey soils where Nebbiolo is raised by the espalier with Guyot pruning.
Barbaresco is another great expression of the Nebbiolo grape. It is produced from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and requires aging for 26 months, nine of which in barrels, and for at least 50 months to bear the mention “Riserva”.
Barbaresco, like Barolo, is a wine that fully reflects the terroir and expresses itself differently depending on the production area. It generally appears as a garnet red wine tending to orange with aging, with very intense and characteristic aromas. The taste is dry and harmonious, with balsamic tertiary notes, tar and roasting that develop with aging.
It is considered a roast wine par excellence, but it is also excellent in combination with typical ‘Piemontese’ dishes, and also with seasoned foods, mushrooms and truffles.
The Wines for Today’s Tasting
Wine #1. Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis, 2022
The Producer: Roero Arneis 2022 is a fine white wine produced by Bruno Giacosa.
The wine:
Vintage – 2022
100% Arneis
Roero Arneis DOCG
The vines are quite vigorous, with strong, straight shoots. The grapes ripen in late September.
Vinification: Stainless steel vats
Length of fermentation: 25-30 days
Refinement: 4 months in stainless steel vats + 1 month in bottle
4 months in steel barrels.
5 % APV
The Arneis grape variety is native to Piedmont region. This grape performs exceptionally well on the sandy hills of Roero, northwest of Alba. It is a very interesting expression of this often-underrated Piemontese grape variety, capable of expressing itself, with great elegance and minerality.
The Arneis grape vines thrive throughout the Roero region and on the hills along the right bank of the Tanaro River.
Historical Journey: Arneis grapes were cultivated in Roero since the 15th century, but the wine made from them gained prominence in the 1970s. It saved Roero Arneis from possible disappearance.
Tasting notes: Straw Yellow, aromas of fresh fruit, citrus, and often hints of almonds. On the palate, it is fresh, full-bodied, with mineral notes and a persistent finish. The mineral-rich soils contribute to its bone-dry character and fresh acidity.
Wine #2. Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella 2020
Producer: Azienda Agricola PAITIN di Pasquero Elia
The wine:
2020
100% Nebbiolo
Barbaresco DOCG
Organic with the sole use of sulfur and copper natural compound, manual or mechanic
Vinification and Aging. Grapes are pressed and destemmed, then fermented and macerate for 3 to 6 weeks in stainless steel. Then it finishes the maceration with the ancient technique of the submerged cap. Aged in wood barrels for around 18 to 24 months. Barrels’ volume varies between 25 to 50 hectoliters, made of Slavonian and Austrian oak.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Serraboella is the most famous Cru in the Southern Neive. A long hill exposed to West that gently bends towards South getting steeper. On this very side: the steepest and the warmest, this Barbaresco has a unique expression. The Paitin 2020 Barbaresco Serraboella is ethereal and luminous in appearance; however, the aromas offer strength and a bold character. This is an impeccably elegant wine.
Tasting notes. Ethereal and luminous, the wine presents itself with grace; the initial impression is of vibrant berry fruit. Beyond the fruit, there are savory notes of licorice and iris root. An intriguing touch of teakwood or mahogany adds depth. Impeccably elegant, it offers a harmonious interplay of power and volume.
Only 10,000 bottles of this exceptional Barbaresco were made.
The Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella 2020 embodies the essence of Piedmont’s winemaking heritage—a symphony of flavors and elegance.
Wine #3. T G.D. Vajra, Barolo ‘Albe’ 2019
The Producer: G.D. Vajra. The Vajra family has farmed Bricco delle Viole, the highest cru in Comune di Barolo, since the 1880s. At the young age of 15, Aldo Vajra embraced the dream to revive his family legacy. Displaying a vision and commitment belying his young age he took over the estate in 1968, turning a new page.
The wine:
2019
100% Nebbiolo
Barolo DOCG
Grapes cultivated in high elevation vineyards. This wine comes from three vineyards with different exposures to the sun: southeast, south and southwest, catching all morning sun rises. This combination is reflected in the freshness of the wine, complexity of flavors and relatively high tannins.
Vinification and Aging: Grapes are harvested by hand with a rigorous grape selection process and then, in the winery, the best berries are re-selected. Fermentation is carried out at controlled temperature with a long maceration; as tradition dictates, the wine is aged for 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.
14.5% APV.
Tasting notes. The 2019 Barolo Albe features a classic blood red color, with a very lively core. Taste of red berries, raspberries, and red currants also display a layer of sweet spices. Aromas of fresh cherries, wild strawberries, rose- buds, wild herbs, underbrush. On the palate it showcases the tart red fruits Nebbiolo is known for, but at a higher gear followed by more savory flavors finishing with well-integrated tannins and vibrant acidity. The mouthfeel opens with a good balance, lots of energy and refined tannins, and the aftertaste echoes the aromatics with lingering complexity.
Viticulture and aging: Fruit harvested by hand. Skin maceration for 12 days, followed by a 20–30-day fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeast.
Aged in a combination of French barrique and large casks for 2 years prior to bottling.
Alcohol: 14.5% APV.
Tasting Notes. The 2019 Paolo Scavino “Prapò” Barolo is a captivating wine from the Barolo region. With the black label, this wine draws its fruit from Serralunga d’Alba, or the village that usually reveals the most structured and muscular expressions of Nebbiolo. Indeed, it is a deep wine characterized by an intense garnet red color, the texture is dense, rich and its tannins have a full and round grain. The nose of this Barolo reveals intriguing notes of dark fruit like figs and black cherries, spicy notes such as nutmeg and black pepper. In the mouth, the Barolo Prapò is assertive and powerful, yet maintains an elegant balance.
It exemplifies rigor and consistency, showcasing the best of the Serralunga terroir. It is full- bodied and approachable, with refined, ripe tannins that gracefully embrace the pure fruitiness.
CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 14 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Paolo Scavino, Barolo ‘Prapò’, 2019 was rated the Best Wine and the white Bruno Giacosa, ‘Roero’ Arneis, 2022 the Best Buy. The best buy among the reds was Paitin, Barbaresco ‘Serraboella’, 2020. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
Jairo Sanchez (1941-2024) our much appreciated Club del Vino Technical Director is not with us anymore. Here a few statements of Club del Vino members wrote about this beloved member. Follows the obituary printed in the Washington Post.
Maria Claudia Perazza: Comparto con uds. la tristeza por el fallecimiento de nuestro querido amigo Jairo, nuestro director técnico emérito, siempre atento y disponible para ayudarnos con los temas del club. Vamos extrañarlo mucho.
Cecilio Augusto Berndsen: Que lastima. Meu primeiro amigo no BID. Marcou sua participação no nosso Club del Vino pelo vasto conhecimento e pela sempre gentil e alegre presença. Nossa perda de uma pessoa que marcou seu caminhar pelo profissionalismo e amavel liderança.
José Brakarz: Que gran Perdida la de Jairo, nuestro amigo y decano del club. Lo conocía desde los tiempos del BID y siempre ha sido una excelente figura humana, además de buen profesional. Lo vamos a extrañar inmensamente.
Jaime Estupiñan: Sentimos mucho el fallecimiento de nuestro querido amigo y compañero del Club. Siempre se distinguió por su amabilidad y caballerosidad. Siempre estuvo atento a ofrecer sus conocimientos y comentarios para engrandecer nuestro Club del Vino. Que en paz descanse.
Ricardo Zavaleta: Sientiendo mucho el falecimiento de un buen amigo y caballero como lo era Jairo. Es una gran perdida para nuestro CV pue el siempe fue un excelente colaborador. Que en az descanse.
Michle Fryer: What sad, unexpected news. Jairo always brought a smile to the table and had kind words for all. He will be missed.
Cristian Santelices: Una pena terrible la partida de nuestro querido socio miembro de la Comisión Directiva del CV. Sus contribuciones en los temas técnicos de las distintas presentaciones siempre fueron excelentes. Jairo fue un gran colaborador, siempre con una nota elegante y de gran clase. Lo extrañaremos. Nuestros sentido pésame para su familia.
Juan Luis Colaicovo: Triste noticia. Acompañe la presencia de Jairo desde su incorporacion al CV hace unos 15 años. Muy grata presencia y muy buen amigo. Dedicado al tema del vino hizo buenas contribuciones al club. Será muy recordado.
Laura Bocalandro: So sorry to hear this news! And unexpected.
Gabriela Vega: Excelente persona. Qué pena
Raimundo Aroio: Realmente una tristísima noticia
Ricardo Santiago: Jairo um gentleman querido por todos. Descanse em Paz!
Jorge Requena: ¡Qué triste noticia! Es una gran pérdida para nuestro Club. Lo conocí en el BID donde trabajamos juntos en varias oportunidades. Fue un excelente colega y un gran amigo. Extrañaré mucho sus consejos y su amena conversación. Lamento no estar allá para acompañar a la familia en su despedida.
Sergio Ardila: What a terrible news. He was such a gentleman, and an exemplary IDB employee. What a loss.
Ginger Smart: I’m so sorry to learn of the loss of Jairo Sanchez. He’s been a very supportive and active member of the wine club for many years.
John Redwood: This is very sad news indeed! Not only was dear Jairo a true gentleman as others have said and a longtime and very knowledgeable member of the club, he was also one of the members both Lucia and I have known longest from our days at the IDB, dating back to the mid-1980s in my case. He will be sorely missed. Please convey our sincerest condolences to his family on our behalf.
German Zincke Una gran pérdida para el Club y una mayor pérdida de un amigo querido
por todos. Sus conocimientos técnicos sobre el vino fueron un valioso aporte para
todos nosotros. Gran compañero, amable y comunicativo, ganó nuestro afecto y para
siempre estará en nuestro corazón. Jairo, descansa en paz.
Mis condolencias a su familia.
Marcello Averbug: Notícia muy triste. Jairo era el tipo de persona cuya amistad siempre ha sido valiosa y fuente de afecto.
Jorge Claro: Es una gran pena perder a un amigo y colega tan querido como Jairo. Más aún cuando se trata de uno como él, con quien tuve la oportunidad de compartir momentos muy gratos, tanto en el BID donde trabajamos juntos por varios años, como posteriormente como amigo. No quiero ni pensar como será la pena de su familia y sobre todo de Aura, su señora. Es de lamentar que hemos perdido a amigos tan queridos como Jairo, Alfonso, Mario y otros en un espacio de tiempo tan corto. Se linda personalidad y sabio consejo se extrañará enormemente en las hermosas y entretenidas reuniones del Club del Vino.
Pedro Turina: Con sorpresa y profundo pesar recibo en Chile la noticia del fallecimiento de Jairo, un conocedor profundo de los vinos y sus cualidades y amable contertulio, magnífica persona. Estaré de regreso para asistir a misa en su memoria.
Jairo Sanchez Obituary
W. Post
Jairo Enrique Sánchez, age 82 of Washington, DC, formerly of Chiquinquirá, Colombia, passed away on Thursday, April 11, 2024. Born on December 21, 1941, Jairo was a devoted son to Ramón Sánchez (deceased) and Soledad (Méndez) de Sánchez (deceased), and brother to Óscar Ramon, Carlos Efraín (deceased), Mery Soledad (deceased), Daniel Alfonso, Martha Lucía, Álvaro Arturo (deceased), Clara Imelda, Cesar Guillermo, and Claudia Consuelo Sánchez.
Jairo had an endless curiosity and passion for learning that led him to the Universidad Nacional de Colombia where he earned his bachelor’s
degree in Civil Engineering and Universidad de Los Andes where he received a master’s degree in Economics. He lived his life grounded in his core values of education and generosity. In his professional life, he flourished working his entire career at the Inter-American Development Bank. There he held various leadership roles which brought him to live across multiple Latin American Countries including México, Ecuador, and Perú before settling in Washington, DC.
Jairo was a loving husband to his wife of 50 years, Aura; and a devoted father to his late son Jairo Enrique Jr., and daughter Ana Maria. He is survived by his wife Aura; his daughter Ana Maria, son-in-law Mark Keller; and granddaughter Pia Sánchez Keller. Jairo’s unstoppable energy, love of life, and love for people around him left a mark on all those who knew him. His open heart and mind will live on through his family and friends.
A memorial mass will be held at Church of the Little Flower in Bethesda, MD on Wednesday, April 24 at 12 noon.
Published by The Washington Post on Apr. 21, 2024.
The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the Island of Sardinia, Italy
Type of tasting: Open/hybrid/blind
Presenter: Sergio Ardila
Participants:
S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; J. García; N. Marzella; A and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; L. Uechi; G. Veja; and G. Zincke.
These are the wines:
Pala ‘Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna’, 2022
Pala ‘Cannonau di Sardegna’ Riserva, 2020
Cantine Argiolas ‘Turriga Isola Dei Nuraghi’, 2017
Agricola Punica ‘Barrua Isola Dei Nuraghi’, 2019.
Menu
Cream of asparagus
Raviolis in cream sauce
Grilled NY steak
Dessert, coffee
Wine production in Sardinia
Sardinia, 150 miles (240km) off the west coast of mainland Italy, is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, with a total population of 1.7 million in 2020 (Italian National Institute of Statistics). Covering roughly 9300 square miles, it is almost three times the size of French-owned Corsica, its immediate neighbor to the north, and only slightly smaller than Italy’s other major island, Sicily.
Sardinia boasts a rich viticultural history with traditions distinct from the mainland. Influenced by Spanish and French viticulture practices, Sardinian wines offer a unique blend of indigenous grapes and international varieties. Blessed with a warm Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and stunning coastal landscapes, Sardinia presents a treasure trove for wine lovers.
Over the centuries, Sardinia has belonged to various empires and kingdoms, which is reflected in its place names, architecture, languages and dialects, and its unique portfolio of wine grapes.
Since the mid-18th Century, Sardinia has been one of Italy’s five autonomous regions (the others being Sicily, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige and the Aosta Valley), but its separation from the mainland has led to a culture and identity somewhat removed from the Italian mainstream. This is reflected in the Sardinian relationship with wine: it is much less culturally and historically engrained there than in the mainland regions. Wine production and consumption on any scale has developed only in the past few centuries. Viticulture is a minority enterprise in Sardinia, despite generous financial incentives from the government.
In the wine world, Sardinia is best known for red wines made from Cannonau (or Grenache) and white wines made from Vermentino, the main grape varieties produced here. The region makes twice as much red wine as white.
In terms of terroir, the combination of hills and plains, coastal regions and inland areas offers useful diversity of topography and mesoclimates. To further these benefits, the available soils and bedrocks vary from granite, limestone and sandstone to mineral-rich clays and free-draining sands and gravels.
Located between 38 and 41 degrees North, the island lies at the southern edge of European viniculture, but thanks to the cooling effects of the Mediterranean, the maritime climate here is more forgiving than in other regions at this latitude (e.g. Greece and Turkey).
Sardinia’s wine production has fluctuated considerably from year to year, and 2022 was at its 10-year average of 684,000 hl, coming off 26,700 ha (66,000 acres) of vines .
Key characteristics of Sardinian wines are:
Powerful Reds: Cannonau leads the way with its full body, ripe fruit character, and hints of spice;
Aromatic Whites: Vermentino shines with its crisp acidity, citrus, and floral aromas; and
Indigenous Treasures: Nuragus, Monica, and other local grapes, which offer unique flavors.
The grape varietals and denominations
In terms of grape varieties, the portfolio of varieties planted in Sardinian vineyards bears little resemblance to those in any other Italian wine region. The closest mainland wine regions to Sardinia are Tuscany and Lazio, and yet the key varieties used in these two (Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Barbera, Trebbiano) are not found in the island’s vineyards.
Instead, one finds varieties of French and Spanish origin, exemplified by Grenache (called Cannonau here), Carignan (and its distinct clonal variants Bovale di Spagna and Bovale Grande) and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The most “Italian” varieties here are Malvasia and Vermentino, but even Vermentino can only just be considered Italian, being more widely planted on Corsica and southern France – often under the name Rolle – than in its homeland, Liguria. Muscat Blanc (Moscato Bianco), ubiquitous all around the Mediterranean, further contributes to the pan-Mediterranean feel of Sardinian viniculture.
Aside from the better-known grape varieties mentioned above, the island makes use of several obscure varieties, including Torbato, Semidano, Niederra, Nuragus, Monica and Nasco. The latter three are showcased in their own variety-specific DOCs, all from Cagliari.
The Italian love of complex bureaucracy is clearly visible in Sardinia, which has more DOC and IGT titles than Calabria and Basilicata combined, despite having the lowest wine production per hectare of any Italian wine region. It has one DOCG, 17 DOCs, and 15 IGPs.
The majority of Sardinian vineyards lie on the western side of the island, which is also where most of its location-specific DOCs are found. They line the west coast, running from south to north: Carignano del Sulcis, Vernaccia di Oristano, Malvasia di Bosa, and Alghero.
Even the large Cagliari DOC, which covers a good proportion of the island’s southern half, is strongly biased towards the west coast. The exception to this westerly bias is Vermentino di Gallura, the island’s only DOCG, whose catchment area covers the island’s northeastern corner.
Nevertheless, the most familiar appellations to many drinkers are likely to be the five island-wide DOCs: Cannonau di Sardegna, Vermentino di Sardegna, Monica di Sardegna, Sardegna Semidano and Moscato di Sardegna.
Information on the Wines
Wine #1. Pala Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna, 2022
– The Producer. Azienda Agricola Pala (or Pala estate) is a well-respected producer known for its diverse range of wines, from Vermentino, Cannonau, Malvasia, Sarda, Monica and Nuragus. The winery was founded in 1950 with the first harvest done by Salvatore Pala, coming from the grapes of his own vineyards in the Serdiana countryside with the idea to make some good wine to be sold. The white wine was made from Nuragus grapes, while the red was made from Monica and Pascale grapes. Pala owns six different vineyard areas with a total of 68 hectares currently under vine. Each vineyard is planted with varietals that are chosen according to the microclimate and soil type of the individual site. Pala practices organic farming in the vineyard and does not use chemical pesticides or fertilizers.
– The wine:
Vintage: 2022
Varietal: 100% Vermentino
Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (regional)
Sandy and clayey-calcareous rich in pebbles, medium hill, 150/180 m. above sea level
Must obtained by the soft pressing of the grapes after a first clean and the addition of yeasts selected in our own vineyards, ferments in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature of 12° C.
The wine remains in contact with the fine lees for about five months, then it is bottled.
13.5 %
Winemaker notes. Intense straw yellow colour with greenish tinges, brilliant. Intense, lingering aroma with vegetable and floral fragrances of maquis and summer fruits. Pleasant nose-palate harmony, warm and full of good depth and perky acidity, balanced.
Tasting review. Spiced and tropical character with notes of ripe mangoes, peach skins, honeysuckle and hints of marzipan. Medium- to full-bodied, creamy and dense with a concentration and richness to the fruit and a chalky, slightly phenolic finish (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).
Wine #2. Pala ‘Cannonau Riserva di Sardegna’DOC, 2020
– The Wine
2020
100% Cannonau, single vineyard;
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC (regional);
Crabilis Vineyard in the hills of Serdiana;
Manual harvesting, maceration on the skins at controlled temperature for ten days; alcoholic fermentation followed by the malolactic one.
Refinement for twelve months in French oak barrels followed by three more months in stainless steel vats and four more months in bottle.
14.5%
Pala Cannonau Riserva di Sardegna has received high ratings from critics. The wine has also won several awards, including a gold medal at the International Wine Challenge.
Winemaker notes. Ruby red, very dark, with intense notes of red berries, blackberry and red cherry together with fine spicy notes. Elegant with smooth tannins, full-bodied and a long finish. Delicious with grilled or braised meats, spicy food, and seasoned cheeses.
Tasting review. Wild strawberries, red plums, currants, licorice and orange peel on the nose. It’s juicy, round and spicy, with a medium body and succulent ripe red-berry fruit ( Suckling).
– The Producer. Cantine Argiolas is widely regarded as the foremost wine estate on the island of Sardinia. It produces a large portfolio of award-winning wines, including this powerful, tannic, herbal noted Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, based on Cannonau from the rocky vineyard of the same name. The estate was founded and planted in 1938 by Antonio Argiolas, who is considered the father of modern winemaking in Sardinia. He died in 2009 at the age of 102, giving anecdotal weight to the idea that Sardinian wine is beneficial to longevity. Argiolas covers around 280 ha. of vineyards, divided across a handful of different estates in the gently rolling land to the north and east of the city of Cagliari. A wide range of varieties are grown in these vineyards, including the traditional Cannonau, Monica, Bovale Sardo (Graciano), Carignano, Vermentino and Malvasia Bianca, as well as several international ones. The Turriga Rosso is Argiolas’ flagship red wine, made from a blend of Cannonau, Carignano, Bovale Sardo, and Malvasia Nera grapes.
– The Wine.
2017
Cannonau, Carignano, Bovale Sardo, Malvasia Nera;
Isola dei Nuraghi IGT (covers the entire administrative region);
Careful selection of the grapes. Fermentation at controlled temperature 28- 32°C. Maceration for about 16-18 days with good use of the delestage technique;
aged for 18 to 24 months in new French oak barriques then bottle refinement for 12-14 months;
14-14.5%;
Winemaker notes. The wine has a deep ruby color and a complex aroma of blackberries, cherries, spices, and tobacco. It is full-bodied and has a smooth, velvety texture. The flavors of blackberries, cherries, and spices are also present on the palate, along with hints of chocolate and vanilla. The wine has a long, lingering finish. This is a powerful and complex wine that is perfect for pairing with grilled meats, stews, and pasta dishes and aged pecorino. It is also a good wine to cellar for a few years. Best if served at 18-20o
Wine #4. Agricola Punica ‘Barrua’, Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT, 2019
– The Producer. Agricola Punica (AgriPunica) is a joint venture between renowned Tuscan producer Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia) and Cantina di Santadi, founded in 2002. The winery has 170 ha. in the Basso Sulcis area. Currently it produces two quality reds based on Carignano del Sulcis with exceptional results and one excellent white. The estates fall within the Carignano del Sulcis DOC. However, the wines are made under the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT rules to give more options when it comes to blending. Barrua is AgriPunica’s award winning flagship red wine.
– The Wine
2019
85% Carignano, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot.
Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT
The must ferments with the skins at a temperature between 25° and 28°C in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for about 15 days. Periodically pumped over to facilitate the extraction of the compounds present in the skins. Malolactic fermentation confers smoothness to the wine.
18 months in French oak barrels (40% new), then rests in bottle for at least 6 months.
14.5-15%
2019 AgriPunica ‘Barrua’ has received high ratings from critics, and also won several awards, including a gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards
Winemaker notes: the quality of the red Sulcitane grapes, not only in terms of color, but also for the smoothness of its soluble compounds – from the tannins to the consistently low and elegant acidity and the smoothness of its main components. Its polyphenolic apparel is of a distinguishably sweet, extremely delicate, round tannin weave chromatically embroidered with refined anthocyanins. Color is lively, deep ruby-red. Complex scent of ripe red fruit (mainly black cherry), spices, notes of licorice and hints of myrtle. An elegant wine that shows an impeccable workmanship, with notes of sage and myrtle with aromas of ripe red fruits and pepper in a persistent and harmonious finish. Typically, the wine combines ripe red fruit with aromas of herbs and spices.
The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 16 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting. Cantine Argiolas ‘Turriga’ Isola dei Nuraghi, 2017 was rated the Best Wine. The white Pala ‘Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna’, 2022 the Best Buy. The best buy among the reds was Pala, ‘Cannonau di Sardegna’ Riserva, 2020. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
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Just for Laughs
I miss my early years so much… Ai que saudades da minha infância
The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the Sicily in Italy. The tasting will include one white wine and three reds. All wines for this tasting are Denominazione di Origine Controllata (literally Controlled Designation of Origin) – a certification applied to Italian wines that have distinctive features of superior quality, determined by the grape varietal and the production area as well as the techniques for processing and aging.
Type of tasting: Open
Presenters: Clara Estrada and Jorge García
Participants:
S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; O. Mason; C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; L. Uechi; G. Zincke and Patricia Uribe Mallarino (guest).
These are the wines:
Tornatore Etna Bianco 2019
Tornatore Etna Rosso 2019.
Tornatore Etna Rosso Pietrarizzo 2019.
Cottanera Etna ‘Diciassettesalme’ Rosso 2019.
Menu
Arancini (rice balls stuffed with ground beef)
Linguini with tomato and clams
Pork loin with herbs
Coffee and dessert
The Sicily Region
Sicily has a warm Mediterranean climate, tons of sunshine, and lots of heat. The red and white wines are fresh, and high in acid. Let’s figure out how the terroir of Sicily helps create this exuberant tapestry.
Grapes planted at higher altitudes can produce fresher styles of wine because the grapes have more acid and fresher fruit flavors. Carricante,Catarratto and Nerello Mascalese all thrive at these higher altitudes, found throughout the island. The higher elevation means higher levels of aromas, fresh fruit flavors, lower alcohol levels, and higher levels of acid. That’s because for every 328 feet (100 m) in elevation, the temperature drops 1°F (0.6°C). And with some vineyards sitting above 3300 feet (1000 m), the average temperature can go from 22°C to 16°C. That’s like going from the Central Valley in California, to Willamette Valley in Oregon! The climate goes from really warm, to cool, pretty quickly.
The region benefits from Sicily’s ample sunshine, but Mt. Etna’s high elevation also provides greater rainfall, moderating breezes and cooler temperatures. Etna’s unique nature means soils, microclimates and exposures change dramatically from site to site, creating a panorama of characteristics and possibilities in the vineyards.
The wines are from the Etna DOC, which is a stunning wine appellation that covers the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. The appellation is famous for its unique volcanic terroir and distinctive wines.
The grape varietals
ITALY, SICILY, ETNA: “THE BURGUNDY OF THE MEDITERRANEAN”
Carricante
The Etna Bianco is born from the skillful vinification of the white grape vines Carricante, cultivated in volcanic soils with a high vocation and arranged in terraces at an altitude of 650 meters above sea level, in the northern slope of the volcano. Straw yellow colored wine with light green shadow that offers mineral notes with menthol scents typical of high wines, green apple with primary aromas characteristic of the variety. (https://tornatorewine.com/vini/etna-bianco-tornatore/).
Carricante is an ancient white wine grape variety from eastern Sicily. It is thought to have been growing on the volcanic slopes of Mt Etna for at least a thousand years. There are around 200 hectares (500 acres) of plantings on the island. Very few vines are found elsewhere. The grape’s synonyms are Catanese Bianco and Catarrato.
Carricante is the key grape behind white wines made under the Etna DOC title. It is required in all of the denomination’s white wines: 60 percent minimum in the standard Etna Bianco and 80 percent in Etna Bianco Superiore. The most common blending partner here is Catarratto, a variety for which Carricante is often confused.
The variety is known for its marked acidity, and the high yields which gave rise to its name (carica means “load” in Italian). The best examples come from vines grown in volcanic soils, at high altitude (Etna’s vineyards stretch up as high as 1,200 meters/3,940ft). Well-adapted to their environment, Carricante vines respond well to the high diurnal temperature variations that characterize the climate around Mt. Etna. The grapes ripen slowly and steadily throughout the long growing season, retaining their trademark high acidity well into September. If harvested too early, this acidity is all too apparent in the wine, and is sometimes countered by lees [1] contact and malolactic fermentation and/or partial barrel aging. In cooler seasons, Carricante grapes can still be seen on the vines into early October.
On the whole, Carricante wines offer a broad range of refreshing citrus aromas – anything from lemon and lime to grapefruit to orange – alongside cooling herbal notes such as mint and aniseed. An underlying mineral, slatey character is also to be found in the finest examples.
When aged in stainless steel and without lees contact, notes of tart green apple shine through – a searing reminder of the variety’s naturally high acidity. Weightier Carricante wines (particularly later-harvested examples) are complemented by honeyed hints and the creamy texture that results from lees contact.
Wine Folly calls the Carricante grape Sicily’s answer to dry Riesling . When tasting this grape, look for aromas of citrus, green apple, orange blossom, and peach, with mineral notes of crushed rocks and salty air. The tasting notes on the wine I tried mentioned white peach, orange peel, crushed thyme and subtle, smoky flavors that mix well with fresh and dried-herb notes. I was thrilled to read these notes, because I quickly picked up on the smokiness and dried herbs. Had I not had those notes, I wouldn’t have been able to name what I was experiencing. https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-989-carricante ; https://bettyswinemusings.com/what-a-treat-to-try-carricante/ ]
Nerello
Nerello comprises two varieties of red wine grapes grown primarily in Sicily and Sardinia.
Nerello Mascalese. It is named after the Mascali area in Catania where the grape is thought to have originated. It is grown mainly on the northeastern side of Sicily and is thought to be superior in quality to the Nerello Cappuccio. While it can be used for blending, the grape is often made into varietal wine. Recent DNA testing has confirmed that the variety is the offspring of Italy’s famous Sangiovese grape variety and Mantonico Bianco.
Nerello Cappuccio. It is widely used in the Etna DOC as a blending grape that adds color and alcohol to the wine. The grape is less prominent and used in smaller proportions, although it can contribute darker fruit flavours, more structure, and deeper colour to the final wine. This is the most common blending partner for Nerello Mascalese, being a small proportion of the blend.
The two varietiess have gained attention in recent years for their role in delivering high-quality, unique wines that reflect their volcanic terroir. Synonyms for the Nerello grapes are Niureddu and Negrello.
Nerello Mascalese is grown predominantly in Sicilia (91%) in an area of about 2,900 has. The area extends across the variable volcanic soils of the slopes of Mt. Etna at some of the highest vineyard altitudes in all of Europe—up to 3,300 feet. The plantings easily exceed the plantings of Nerello Cappuccio. A small portion of older vines predate the phylloxera epidemic of the 1880s Nerello Mascalese is one of Sicily’s most noble red varieties. It makes a beautifully aromatic, firm, cellar-worthy but pale-hued red often comparable to a fine Burgundy or Barbaresco. Nerello Mascalese takes its name from the black color of its grapes, nerello, and the Mascali plain between Mt. Etna and the coast where it is believed to have originated.
The organoleptic characteristics of the monovarietal Nerello Mascalese generally are a ruby red color, with subtle grenade tones; a strong fruity scent of red berry fruits, with slight floral shades, a spicy hint, and a delicate effusion of vanilla and tobacco, with a persistent trace of licorice; and a dry, tannic, persistent and harmonic taste, with a strong body. At sight, the wine seems surely more mature than it appears when smelled or tasted. Treating this vine variety in a traditional way, it can produce a wine presenting the above-described characteristics.
The Tornatore, one the oldest wine growing families on Mt. Etna, have lived in Sicily since 1680 and trace their Etna grape growing back to 1865. In 1910 the Grandfather Giuseppe built a house with a millstone in the district of Piano Fiera with adjacent 2 hectares of vineyards in addition to other two hectares on the North side of the Etna, in the district of Piano Felci at 1,000 m above sea level. That heritage and the Tornatore’s profound respect and understanding of the land is showcased in wines that capture the essence of Etna, balancing concentrated flavors, complexity, freshness and refinement. The Tornatore’s Etna roots have long grounded them in the flavors and patterns of their region, and it was this knowledge that inspired Francesco Tornatore to found his family’s winery in the town of Castiglione di Sicilia in 2010, nearly a century and a half after his great grandfather first planted vineyards on Mt. Etna.
Tornatore blends artisan and modern winemaking to craft wines such as the Bianco and Rosso that display the full range of fruit and complex personality of Etna terroir, and single vineyard wines—Pietrarizzo with its high elevation and Trimarchisa with 40-year-old vines—that express the beauty and distinct character of their exceptional sites.
The winery lies in the northern side of Mount Etna, where the soils have volcanic origin and are derived from the disintegration of the masses of lava, ashes and lapilli. Generally, these soils are formed on site (native) or carried by rainwater which, in some flat areas on the slopes of the volcano, resulted in large black valleys, deep and very fertile. The climate on the northern side of the Etna is characterized by mild temperatures, reflecting the influence of the mountain reliefs from that side (Nebrodi). The result is a late maturing environment due to the exposure and the predominant altitude that promotes strong thermal excursions. The combination of soil, climate and the skill of the winemakers, have made the northern slope of Etna an ideal area for the production of high-quality wines.
The Company owns 110 hectares of which 60 hectares of vineyards, making the Tornatore’s vineyards one of the largest in the Etna DOC production area. Tornatore’s vineyards count several locations in different districts: among them the remarkable contrade (districts or parcels of vineyard land that have been known by recognized names for a long time) of Bragaseggi, Piano dei Daini, Zottorinotto, Pietrarizzo, Malpasso, Pietramarina, Torre Guarino, Carranco and Trimarchisa, all in the Castiglione di Sicilia Municipality. The altitude ranges from 550 to 700 meters above sea level and the age of the vineyards varies from 3 to 40 years for the Reds and 3 to 10 years for the Whites.
The winery’s vineyards have recently been reorganized in order to improve the quality standards, with particular attention to the the vineyards management. A high number of vines per hectare (approx. 6,000) has been maintained. The existing vines are Etna’s native in compliance with the rules of Etna DOC wine production, in particular Red Berry Nerello Mascalese and Nero Cappuccio and White Berry Carricante and Catarratto.
Harvest and winemaking: grape harvest is done by hand. Subsequently transported in special crates, the grapes are vinified maintaining high standards of quality, with maximum respect for tradition. The grapes are selected and processed manually to enhance the characteristics of each vineyard. Wines are aged in oak barrels located in a completely buried rooms, with insulation made of Etna basalt blocks arranged on walls and floor of the cellar in a workmanlike manner.
The winery has the latest modern equipment with low environmental impact, maximum respect for the surroundings, including the use of renewable energy sources for its operation. (https://tornatorewine.com/company/?).
TheProducer #2. Cottanera.
The story of Cottanera starts with Francesco Cambria, who, in 1962 bought 100 hectares of vines and hazelnut groves near his birthplace in Randazzo. With the arrival of DOC status for Etna in 1968 and hazelnuts losing market share, he decided to focus on grape growing for bulk wine production, replanting the hazelnut groves to vines. In the late 1980s, Francesco’s son Guglielmo decided to build a winery to make his own wine, rather than selling the grapes, and he was quite successful selling it in demijohns to local consumers and restaurants. The initial success of these wines pushed Guglielmo to progress to quality wine production, so in the mid-1990s, he improved his father’s vineyards and embraced lower yields, and he labeled the first wines as Cottanera. In the mid-1990s the family started focusing on producing premium wines and launched the Cottanera label. Today Cottanera is one of the largest vineyards in Etna, at roughly 65 hectares, with vineyards located in five different parcels on the northern slope of Etna where most of the volcano’s best-known wineries are located. The business focuses on the Etna Rosso, Bianco and single parcel wines that are now gathering most of the attention and which have been known by recognized names for a long time.
6. The Wines
Wine #1. Tornatore Etna Bianco 2019
Year – 2019
Composition: 100% Carricante
12.5 %
4-6 months in steel and concrete tanks
Critical Acclaim, awards: Gold from the Sommeliers Choice Awards (2019 vintage)
Winemaker’s notes: Pale straw yellow with intense greenish reflections at the sight; pleasant hints of green apple, grapefruit, white peach and aromatic herbs, mark the nose of this wine which shows its true identity on the palate with a very pleasant flavor and freshness completed by an extraordinary minerality; exclusive notes that invite a second glass.
Critic notes. “The nose on this Etna white is like walking through a lavender field on a sunny afternoon—fresh and floral and warming—before blooming with more flowers, from lily of the valley to peach blossoms, and saline notes of sea air. The palate walks the same path through flower fields to the waterfront, salty and floral, with peach and pear notes as well, balancing depth and delicacy”. (Danielle Callegari – 91/100, Wine Enthusiast).
6 months in big wood barrels and 3 months in bottle
Awards: Ranked among the top 10 wines from the region with respect to number of awards won: the 2019 vintage was awarded Gold from The TEXSOM International Wine Awards, and the 2017 vintage was awarded Gold from the Sommeliers Choice Awards.
(92 pts. Wine Spectator; 91 pts Wine Advocate)
Winemaker notes. “Ruby red with faint purple, typical of this variety which is not very rich in color. Clear hints of red berries, morello cherry and black cherry on the nose. The taste is characterized by its typical balanced tannins and a surprising fullness, flavor and persistence.”
Critic notes. “The Tornatore 2019 Etna Rosso is a blend of Nerello Mascarello with a 5% touch of Nerello Cappuccio added to give a bit more color to the wine. In fact, “Nerello” is a diminutive of the word “nero” (or “black”) and underlines the grape’s light appearance. This entry-level wine is aged in oak for eight months to show dark cherry, spice and blue flower. Fruit comes from young vines that are 10 years old. Drink: 2023-2027”. (91/100 pts. Monica Larner @ Wine Advocate)
One year+ in 25 hl. wood barrels and cement tanks; 3 months in bottle.
Winemaker notes. Ruby red, delicate and incredibly balanced on the nose, clear hints of red berries, flowers, perfectly integrated to a minerality and evolution worthy of a great wine. Great structure on the mouth with a surprising drinkability and elegance. Serving temperature 18 °C.
Critics notes. “A graceful, medium-bodied red, with bright acidity and fine, creamy tannins, which buoy a pleasing range of baked strawberry, star anise, graphite and red licorice notes. A subtle overtone of herbs and mineral pushes through and lingers on the lightly chewy finish. Drink now through 2032”.( 93 pts.Wine Spectator)
Critic notes. “Aromas of French oak, toasted nuts and spearmint lead the nose. The aromas follow over to the linear palate along with coffee bean, licorice, salty notes and blood orange before close-grained tannins sneak in and dry out the close”. (Kerin O’Keefe” – 89/100, Wine Enthusiast).
7.CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 16 participants rated them from Mediocre to Excellent.
The combined results established the preference order during the tasting. Tornatore ‘Etna Bianco’ DOC, 2019 and Cottanera ‘Etna Rosso Diciassettesalme’, 2019 were both rated the Best Wines and the Tornatore ‘Etna Bianco’, 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
The main objective of this tasting is to explore different types and offerings of Northern Italian Sparkling Wines. The first tasting of the year will be of the best Italian Sparkling Wines and allow us to sample top sparkling wines in a variety of grapes, production methods, terroirs and acidity/sugar content. This should bring cheers with the bubbles and the new year.
Type of tasting: Open
Presenter: Laura Bocalandro
Participants:
S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; J.&L. Redwood; R. Santiago; J. Sanchez; E. Silva; P. Turina; L. Uechi; R. Zavaleta.
Wines:
Cantina della Volta, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Rosé Brut Spumante, DOC, 2017
Ferrari, Sparkling Wine Brut, Trento DOC, NV
Adriano Adami, Bosco di Gica, Prosecco Superiore, Valdobbiadene, DOCG, NV
Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva, DOCG, 2014
Menu (the wines will be served all at once)
Seafood Salad
Fettuccine with Aurora Sauce
Salmon Grille with broccoli and green beans
Dessert
The Sparkling Wines of Northern Italy
The sparkling wines of northern Italy have a long tradition of producers, production methods and more recently quality controls and certifications.
Sparkling wines benefit from a series of institutions that safeguard the production, designation and quality, as well as promote the different Italian sparkling wines. The Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta was created in 1990 and the Consorzio per la Tutela del Prosecco was established in 2009, shortly after the date on which Prosecco was recognized as a wine with a Controlled Designation of Origin. These Consortia aim to voluntarily associate winemakers, winemakers and sparkling wine producers to guarantee the development of the Denomination and compliance with the rules set out in the Production Regulations.
In addition, the concern for the certification of origin and quality control led to the creation in 1979 of the Federdoc, the National Confederation of Voluntary Consortia for the Protection of the Designations of the Italian Wines. This organization represents almost all the universe of the Italian Designations and their Consortia, and it supports them on an institutional, legal and legislative level. Federdoc: “the designation of origin” of Italian consortia.
Production methods:
There are two production methods for sparkling Italian wines: the Charmat/Martinotti method and the traditional method or metodo classico.
Metodo Charmat: Primary and secondary fermentation in stainless steel, filtered into a tank and bottled. Also known as: Tank method, metodo Italiano, Martinotti method or autoclaves. Examples could be a Prosecco or a Lambrusco di Surbara.
It is used to produce spumante and frizzante sparkling wines with distinctive floral and fruity notes, through a natural second fermentation process in large, sealed tanks (autoclaves). Dr. Antonio Carpenè, one of the founding members of the Conegliano School of Winemaking, was the first person to use this method to produce sparkling Prosecco wine with the characteristics that are so well known today. Prior to this, the wines were produced using second fermentation in the bottle.The autoclave, or closed tank fermentation, was first invented by the French chemist Edme-Jules Maumené in 1852, adapted for commercial use by the Italian Federico Martinotti, and perfected for use with stainless steel by another Frenchman, Eugene Charmat, in 1907. The process of using a large tank for secondary fermentation is referred to as the Martinotti process in Italy and the Charmat process elsewhere.
2. Metodo classico: The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, with the wine resting on its yeast lees. Also known as: Traditional method, Méthode Champenoise, Méthode Traditionnelle. The main example in Italy is Franciacorta.
Under the metodo classico, the yeast that is in contact with the wine in the bottle during the second fermentation adds a wonderful flavor. This is called “autolysis” and the longer you leave the wine in contact with the yeast lees, the better, up to a point. Also, the bubbles, or perlage, in this fermentation process are finer and last longer in the glass.
The Prosecco: its origins date back at least 2000 years. It was known in Roman times as Pucino (1st century AD – Pliny the Elder). It originated as a still, dry wine produced near Trieste, taking its name from the village of Prosecco. The bubbles first appeared with second fermentation in bottles at the end of the 19th century and then in autoclaves (tanks) in the early 1900s. Today it is made in a very large area covering the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. Sparkling Prosecco was introduced to the US by Mionetto in 2000, and sales have since exploded.
Prosecco can be either still or sparkling. It can be made either using the Charmat/Martinotti process or the methode traditionelle (methode champenoise). The wines range in sweetness from Zero Dosage to Brut (0-12 g/L RS), Extra Dry (12-17 g/L RS), and Dry (17-32 g/L RS). Prosecco wines have become less sweet over time, and Brut (our wine) is about 40 percent of production. Prosecco is lightly effervescent with about 4 atmospheres of pressure, similar to French Cremant, compared to 6-7 for Champagne.
There are five quality levels of Prosecco. Major changes in the categories were introduced in 2009 with the creation of three DOCGs and the designation of Prosecco as a growing region rather than the name of the grape, which is now only referred to as the Glera grape.
The Glera grape is native to Northeastern Italy, and it is the traditional grape variety used for Prosecco. The native Glera grape must represent a minimum of 85% of all grapes used, and the Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Glera Lunga, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero grapes, vinified off the skins, may also be used up to 15% overall.
The Franciacorta: The sparkling wines of Franciacorta are frequently compared to premium cuvée of Champagne in terms of quality. They are made the same way (méthode champenoise), use the same grape varieties, employ reserve wines to blend across vintages, and do small scale fermentation of different vineyard plots that are later blended into the final cuvée. Unlike Champagne, most Franciacorta producers are also growers. An important part of the Franciacorta ethos is their respect for the environment while championing sustainability and high quality production. The wines are “spectacularly good” and an alternative to other premium sparklers for holiday toasts.
The name Franciacorta most probably comes from the 1100s when the land was known as Francae Curtes, or land free of taxes where the first vines were cultivated. The Franciacorta is a young sparkling wine and it is relatively small with just 106 producers. Its international visibility is limited by the wine’s popularity in Italy, leaving little for the rest of the world. However, some 20 producers now export Franciacorta, giving those living outside Italy the opportunity to experience this delicious sparkling wine. Franciacorta sparkling wines are made from grapes cultivated in 19 communes located in the Province of Brescia, Lombardy. These are grown on hillsides located south of Lake Iseo, which was created by Europe’s last ice age. The glaciers that created the valley ending at Lake Iseo left moraines south of the lake and gave the vineyards of Franciacorta their glacial alluvial soils.
Since the first bottling in 1961, the quality of Franciacorta sparkling wines has impressively improved, in good part due to the creation of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta in 1990. The Consorzio has implemented rules delimiting the varieties grown (predominantly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), production methods (hand harvesting, bottle aging requirements), and yields (60 hectoliters/hectare), some of the lowest in the world. In addition, growers changed their trellising from the traditional pergola to Guyot and spurred cordon, reduced yields with low vigor rootstocks, and planted at higher densities (4-5 thousand vines/ha). These measures significantly improved the quality and reputation of the wines and, also, resulted in Franciacorta being given DOCG status in 1995. Currently, Franciacorta produces about 10 million bottles annually.
There principal producers of Franciacorta are: Bellavista, Ca’ del Bosco, Enrico Gatti, Ferghettina, and Montenisa. And there are five types of sparkling Franciacorta:
Non-Vintage: Must be aged on the lees at least 18 months. (This is a higher threshold than Champagnes which require only a 12 month minimum).
Satèn: Non-vintage must be aged at least 24 months; usually 100% Chardonnay. The bottle pressure must be less than 5 atm.
Rosé: A minimum 35% Pinot Nero is required; the non-vintage rosé must be aged on the lees at least 24 months.
Millesimato: A vintage wine with at least 85% of the wine coming from the stated vintage; up to 15% can come from reserve wines. Must be aged at least 30 months.
Riserva: A Millesimato, Satèn or Rosé that spends at least 60 months on the lees in bottle.
Information on the Wines
Wine #1: Cantina della Volta, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Rosé Brut Spumante, DOC, 2017
100% Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes, cultivated on alluvial soil of the Secchia river in the heart of the Emilia Romagna region.
Selection of the best Sorbara grapes entirely gathered in small cases (15kg. max); manual harvesting in order to ensure that each grape remains whole, then softly pressed.
After remaining at least six months inside the tanks for maturation process, the wine receives selected yeasts, prior to being bottled. The bottles are then stored horizontally for the long re-fermentation process and maturation, at temperature constantly kept at 12°C.
The following steps are remuage, disgorgement and liqueur d’expédition addition.
Dosage 5.5 g/L. ; Alcohol content is 12.5% by vol.
Producer notes: “Beautiful pale pink dress” covered by gentle, soft foam with fine, tiny and persistent perlage. At the nose, a magic sensation of full aromatic perfumes of raspberry and wild berry well combined with ancient rose and pomegranate tones, grapefruit, face powder. Perceivable acidity, balanced with good salty texture. Structured body, brightened by its unique “acid-savory” synergy, which enhances its floral scent. Elegant and persistent.”
“Red berry, violet and a whiff of brioche form the enticing nose on this lovely sparkler. Dry and savory, the elegant palate features pomegranate, orange zest and bread crust alongside fresh acidity and an extremely refined perlage.” (Wine Enthusiast– 92 pts.).
The Producer: Italy’s celebrated Ferrari winery located just outside the city of Trento has been producing this NV TrentoDoc Brut sparkling wine since 1902. All of their wines are TrentDoc produced exclusively from grapes grown in Trentino at high altitudes using sustainable farming methods.
Ferrari Trento is managed by the grandchildren of Bruno Lunelli who bought the estate in 1952 from Giulio Ferrari. Since 2021 the house of Ferrari Trento are the podium sponsors of the F1.
The vineyards include communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi, with S.E. and S.W. exposure the slopes of the mountains of Trentino at an altitude between 200 and 900m over sea level. The climatic variation helps this wine with the cold streams from the Dolomites and the mild temperatures of Lake Garda, thus the grapes develop a higher acidity and aromatic complexity.
The wine: This Ferrari Trento DOC is produced by the metodo classico with more than a hundred years of history. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes with a minimum stay on lees for at least 15 months, which extends to 24 for the Millesimato, and 36 for the Riserva. Our wine has 12.5% alcohol/volume and between 6-12 RS/L sugar residue.
Tasting notes: This wine is a luminous sparkler of pronounced finesse, made with 100% Chardonnay grapes. It is straw yellow with slight green reflections in color. Clean and balanced in taste, with a slight and pleasant finish of ripe fruit and a hint of bread-crust. Aromas of white spring flowers, white orchard fruit and a whiff of brioche lead the way. On the crisp palate, an elegant perlage (bubbles) accompanies creamy yellow apple, pear and lemon drop.
Its straightforward and confident bouquet delivers a clear and precise message of good cheer and easy-drinking appeal. This is the quintessential Italian aperitivo wine. Perfectly served as an aperitif or with lighter dishes, especially seafood.
The Producer: Adriano Adami, the producer of our Prosecco Superiore, has been making Prosecco since 1933. The Bosco di Gica denomination comes from the old name of the area where the family had its first vineyards. For over 90 years Adami has produced only Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG and Prosecco DOC Treviso in its various types and expressions, both traditional and more modern, linked to the diversity of each single hill. They are Prosecchi specialists whose first single vineyard selection in 1933 is still the benchmark for the Prosecco today. Adami now produces 750,000 bottles with grapes from 50 hectares of vineyards.
Milan Fashion Week has adopted this Prosecco as its official sparkling wine.
The Wine: This sparkling wine comes from the appellation known as the Cornegiano Valdobbiadene region, which includes the provinces of Treviso, Venice, Vicenza, Padua, Belluno, Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste and Udine. The land is alluvial in origin and has mainly clay-loam soil, rich in minerals and micronutrients, with a southern exposure and an altitude of 180-300 m above the sea level.
Our wine is made by the Martinotti/Charmat method discussed above. It contains 7-10 RS/L and 11% alcohol by volume. The bottle label includes the Conegliano Valdobbiadene seal with an identification of origin and quality guarantee (DOCG). This label guarantees total compliance with the official product specification, with quality also certified through application of the Government Identification mark (band).
Wine #4: Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva, DOCG, 2014
The Producer: The tiny appellation of Franciacorta was originally created in 1968, Ca’ del Bosco’s first vintage. Ca’ del Bosco is in the top tier of Franciacorta and Maurizio Zanella (owner family) is a perfectionist where nothing is left to chance; its wines are a masterpiece of precision.
In 1988 this Franciacorta took the name of the founder’s mother, Anna Maria Clementi, and became a Zero Dosage sparkling wine to exalt the wine’s purity and integrity.
The Wine: This Franciacorta is produced following the metodo classico.
A blend of 76% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 9% Pinot Bianco, it was fermented in small oak casks for six months and matured on the lees for eight long years. This 2014 vintage wine was disgorged in the winter 2021-2022.
12.8% per volume alcohol; zero dosage with a minimum amount of sugar residue (0-3g/L SR).
The bouquet is immediately beautiful with baked apple, brioche, pastry cream and something a little spicy, like a pinch of saffron, that gives extra pop. It shows a mid-weight mouthfeel with a whole other set of almond and bitter lemon flavors. This elegant Franciacorta manages a careful dance between nose and palate.” (95 pts. Wine Advocate)
Sparkling Wines of Northern Italy
Comparing Tasted Wines
CV Members Rating:
The tasting took place before revealing their prices. 14 participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional.
The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva, DOCG, 2014 was rated the Best
Wine . Adriano Adami, Bosco di Gica, Prosecco Supperiore, Valdobbiadene, DOCG, NV the Best Buy.
The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
Sources/References: These notes draw heavily from some of the following sources.
Franciacorta/ Italy’s Luxury Sparkling Wines Review – International Wine Review.
International Wine Review. Report #14 The World of Sparkling Wines and Champagne.
Lasciatemi cantare Con la chitarra in mano Lasciatemi cantare Sono un italiano
Buongiorno Italia, gli spaghetti al dente E un partigiano come presidente Con l’autoradio sempre nella mano destra Un canarino sopra la finestra
Buongiorno Italia con i tuoi artisti Con troppa America sui manifesti Con le canzoni, con amore, con il cuore Con più donne sempre meno suore
Buongiorno Italia, buongiorno Maria Con gli occhi pieni di malinconia Buongiorno Dio Lo sai che ci sono anch’io
Lasciatemi cantare Con la chitarra in mano Lasciatemi cantare Una canzone piano piano Lasciatemi cantare Perché ne sono fiero Sono un italiano Un italiano vero
Buongiorno Italia che non si spaventa Con la crema da barba alla menta Con un vestito gessato sul blu E la moviola la domenica in TV
Buongiorno Italia col caffè ristretto Le calze nuove nel primo cassetto Con la bandiera in tintoria E una Seicento giù di carrozzeria
Buongiorno Italia, buongiorno Maria Con gli occhi pieni di malinconia Buongiorno Dio Lo sai che ci sono anch’io
Lasciatemi cantare Con la chitarra in mano Lasciatemi cantare Una canzone piano piano Lasciatemi cantare Perché ne sono fiero Sono un italiano Un italiano vero
Lasciatemi cantare Con la chitarra in mano Lasciatemi cantare Una canzone piano piano Lasciatemi cantare Perché ne sono fiero Sono un italiano Un italiano vero
The wine tasting program for 2024 will continue to deepen our learning of the wine regions, varietals, styles and blends of one specific country. In this context, the program will focus on the world of Italian wines in-depth, aiming to highlight lesser-known grape varieties and regions, their diverse climates, soils, and topography. The program will also review the ancient history behind different wine production techniques and showcase well-known producers and smaller family-run businesses that value both tradition and innovation.
Club del Vino – CV – members will present wines that differ from previous program selections to ensure the program is distinctive and unique. The wines to be presented should be available in the Washington area or through online purchase sites.
As a reference, the wines to be selected shall have an average qualification of 90+ by reputable wine critics.
The maximum cost for a set of four wines to taste is $240.
The members of the CV shall select a month and a topic of their choice by December 12, 2023. Each session may accommodate a maximum of three presenters. This document provides bellow a tasting schedule and a list of possible topics in selecting a theme.
Throughout the year, members of the CV can propose additional activities, such as visits to wineries and tastings, to expand the annual program.
The Technical Director and members of the Steering Committee are available to assist members in selecting topics and wines.
The wine tasting Program for 2024 comprises these criteria, the informational text bellow suggestes topics and calendar of tastings.
General Information About the 2024 Wine Tasting Program of the Club del Vino, Washington DC
This provides guidance for CV members in selecting regions, wine varieties, and appellations of origin, as well as topics to consider when proposing a tasting session.
Italian Wine Production
The rich history of Italy with wine reveals that the practice dates back thousands of years, even before the arrival of the Phoenician, Etruscan, and Greek settlers. These groups were already producing wine in Italy before the Romans established their own vineyards. The Romans, however, played a significant role in expanding the viticultural area of Italy by introducing efficient viticultural and winemaking methods.
The expansion of Italy’s wine production began to unravel in the first half of the 20th century due to wars and political misadventures. However, in the 1980s, Italy’s economic fortunes rose and brought the wine trade with it. Since then, the quality of Italian wines has multiplied, and they have gained international fame. First, Barolo became the new luxury wine god, then Amarone Della Valpolicella, followed by the Super Tuscans. Italy’s wine industry was on the right track once again. Italian wine is beloved by large swaths of people in America, particularly in the coastal stretch from Massachusetts to Delaware, where over ten million Italian Americans live.
Italy was the largest wine producer in the world until this year, with a total area of 702,000 hectares devoted to vineyard cultivation and an annual average production of 49 million hectoliters of wine. Italian wine is produced in every region of the country and is exported worldwide. In 2022, Italy accounted for 19.3 percent of global wine production, making it the leader ahead of France (17.7 percent) and Spain (13.8 percent). Italians are also big wine consumers, averaging 42 liters per capita per year, which places them fifth in the world in terms of wine consumption.
Variety of Italian Wine Grapes
Italy has been the top wine-producing country in the world (in terms of volume) since 2014. It is well-known both for its huge wine production, and also, as home to the largest number of grape varietals in the world. Despite France’s reputation as a wine-producing nation, it only uses 35 to 40 varietals commercially across all appellations. On the other hand, in Italy the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry recognizes over350 different grape varieties that are used commercially, which is about 10 times more than the number used in France. Italian winemakers and grape growers have access to a vast array of wine grapes that can satisfy the curiosity of any wine lover. They use various options to create unique and flavorful wine styles from north to south.
Italy is home to many grape varieties that are popularly recognized as native Italian varieties. Some examples are Nebbiolo, which is used for Barolo and Barbaresco, Sangiovese, famous in Tuscany and other regions, and Glera, used for making Prosecco. There are families of grape varieties that all require their individual lines. The likes of Malvasia (12 distinct varieties) and Lambrusco (13 separate, distinct varieties) certainly add up to the numbers.
Few wine grape varieties are genuinely indigenous species to Italy if we go back even further. The spread of the Roman Empire and the trading of Greeks and Phoenicians brought to Italy grape varietals from across Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. But arguably, many of these grapes found their feet and true home in Italy, so we continue to refer to them as Italian grapes varieties. There are hundreds of these, and those interested can find a very good list of themHERE.
Italian Wine Classification and Labels
Italian wine labels, just like those from France and Spain, are required by law to show certain basic information (producer name, appellation, vintage, alcohol content and bottle volume). Italy began developing its official wine classifications in the 1960s, modeled on the French appellation system. Since then, several modifications and additions to the legislation have been made, the last being made in 2010, to be consistent with the latest European Union wine regulations (2008–09). The Italian government’s system of wine classification and labeling uses a four-tier quality hierarchy of currently more than 500 DOCG, DOC/DOP and IGT titles. These are the official tiers from bottom to top level:
Vino da Tavola (VdT): Wines with no geographical indication are called Vino da Tavola, or VdT, which means “table wine.” Table wines are made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy and are rarely of high enough quality to be bottled for the European market or export to the US.
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): is the broadest category, in which all grapes should produced in a specific territory in Italy stated on the wine label. Otherwise, IGT wines do not have to conform to strict standards regarding the style of wine. Wines in the IGT category are often, but not always, of lower quality than DOC wines. Currently there are 118 IGTs in Italy.
Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) which includes two sub-categories: Vini DOC and Vini DOCG:
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC): is next quality level, which means “designation of controlled origin.” There are 330 official DOC appellations in Italy, covering many types of wine, from the sparkling wines of Prosecco to the Vin Santo dessert wines of Tuscany, to a wide range of red and white wines across the country. Each DOC has its own rules about permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, and aging requirements.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG): is the highest quality level. The DOCG designation was created in 1980 in response to criticism that there were too many DOCs, and their quality was variable. DOCG wines, in contrast, were to be truly the best of what Italian wines could offer. The first DOCG wines were Barolo and Barbaresco, both red wines made from the Nebbiolo grape in Piedmont, and Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, both red wines made from the Sangiovese grape in Tuscany. There are now 77 official DOCG wine appellations located in 15 different regions, but mostly concentrated in the regions of Piemonte, Lombardy, Tuscany, and Veneto.
All DOCG wines and some DOC wines will have a paper band containing a serial number that covers the cork or wraps around the neck of the wine bottle.
On the other hand, the Italian wine classification system hasn’t kept up with the innovations and new quality styles coming out of Italy today. One such example is the case of Super Tuscans: this unofficial term emerged in the 1970s, to describe a particular set of high-quality Tuscan wines which were precluded from claiming DOC or DOCG status because they broke traditional Italian winemaking norms (use of foreign grape varieties, and wines often matured in small, new oak barrels). Several of these wines earned global recognition, hence ‘Super Tuscan’. Originally these wines had to be labeled as Vino da Tavola because they contravened the stringent, tradition-focused DOC laws. This situation ultimately led to the creation of the IGT category in the 1990’s, with its relatively relaxed production rules.
Italian Wine Regions
Italy is divided into 20 administrative regions, all of which produce wine, and all of which contain several discrete wine sub-regions or denominations. Therefore, for the purpose of this program, the 20 main wine regions correspond to the 20 administrative regions of the country. The text continues bellow the map.
Understanding the differences between these regions is helpful in understanding the different types of Italian wine. Wine in Italy tends to reflect the local cuisine, while regional cuisine also influences wine. Although some sub-regions like Chianti, Prosecco, and Barolo are very well-known, Italy’s over 400 diverse viticultural areas produce a wide range of wines that cover the entire flavor profile spectrum.
Here is a brief description of the Italian wine regions listed from smallest to largest in terms of production quantity.
Valle d’Aosta (~0.05% DOC production).
Aosta Valley, which is also known as Valle d’Aosta, is the smallest and least populated region of Italy. It is situated in the mountainous Northwest corner of the country, and it shares borders with France and Switzerland. The climate in the Aosta Valley is distinct for an Alpine zone. It is located on the sheltered side of the Western Alps, which leads to falling in a rain shadow and experiencing warm and dry summers. However, the warm, sunny days are followed by much cooler nights, which can affect the grapes adversely. To deal with this, the vintners use various techniques, one of which is training the vines into pergolas. This helps to distribute ground heat to the vines on cold nights.
Despite its small size, the region produces a wide range of red and white wines using native and introduced grape varieties. The most important grape variety is Picotendro, which is the local variant of Nebbiolo. Additionally, the region produces Pinot Noir rosé, Petit Rouge (a red wine), and Petite Arvine (a white wine).
Molise (~0.1% DOC production).
Molise wine region is the second smallest in Italy. Despite its small size, Molise produces some interesting red wines. Among red varieties, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Sauvignon are of great importance, while the most commonly used white grape varieties are Bombino Bianco, Greco, Fiano, and Malvasia.
Basilicata (~0.1% DOC production).
The Basilicata, in Southern Italy, is one of the smallest wine-growing regions and it is located almost exclusively around the extinct volcano Vulture in the northeast of the region. The region is home to just one DOCG and four DOCs, which collectively cover only two bottles in every hundred produced here.
Their main wine is made using Aglianico grapes cultivated on the Vulture volcano’s slopes. The vineyards on Vulture are among the highest in Europe, with some lying beyond 1,000 meters above sea level. It boasts an impressive and commanding flavor profile. The DOCG Aglianico del Vulture Superiore is the only wine widely recognized beyond the region’s borders and has gained. Furthermore, vineyards are located near the charming towns of Rionero in Vulture and Matera in the east, which was the European Capital of Culture 2019 and is always worth visiting.
Calabria (~0.17% DOC production).
The Calabria region in Southern Italy has a long history of wine production that dates back to ancient Greece. Calabrian wines were once renowned not only in Italy but also in other parts of Europe. However, in the late 19th century, the Phylloxera epidemic devastated the region’s vineyards, leading to a sharp decline in the wine industry.
The production of white wines in Calabria involves using a variety of Greco Bianco grapes. Additionally, when discussing Calabrian wines, it is worth mentioning Ciro, one of the region’s oldest wines. Ciro red wine is made from the indigenous Gaglioppo grapes and is a full-bodied, tannic wine with strong fruity flavors.
Liguria (~0.2% DOC production).
The Liguria region can be described as small but beautiful. It is characterized by steep slopes with dry-stone walls, which are difficult to machine. These slopes are home to a handful of ancient grape varieties in the Cinque Terre. Due to the laborious work involved, many farmers have abandoned viticulture in favor of greenhouses in recent decades. However, in recent years, viticulture has experienced a small renaissance thanks to some innovative winemakers.
Liguria is a famous wine region that produces light white wines, particularly from Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes – known locally as “Pigato” because of the pigmented colors that appear on the mature grapes. Vermentino is considered one of Italy’s great grape varieties because of its perfect blend for sipping on a beach, having as an aperitif, or pairing with seafood. Many people mistake Pigato for Vermentino, but Vermentino usually has more intense colors, while Pigato has less pronounced and more subdued fruity aromas. The primary areas in Liguria where Pigato grapes are grown are Savona, Imperia, and Genoa. Pigato wine is an excellent reflection of the Ligurian terroir, highlighting the minerality of the soil and the sea salt aromas. Liguria also produces two red grape varietals – Rossese and Ormeasco (similar to Piedmont’s Dolcetto). Rossesse wines from Piedmont are notably fruity and spicy.
Campania (~0.5% DOC production).
In the south of Italy, we find Campania, the most visited Southern Italian region. This should not be surprising: the region’s capital is Naples, the spiritual home of Pizza. This region produces unique indigenous wines, many of which are grown in the same volcanic soils that buried Pompeii. Grapes such as Pallagrello, Biancolella, Coda di Volpe, and Tintore make intriguing wines. Wines from Falanghina, Greco di Tufa, and Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio are particularly noteworthy.
Aglianico is the star of Campania’s wine scene. It is a powerful wine that can be compared to a mythical creature. It’s not for the faint of heart, as only the most passionate wine enthusiasts who enjoy a challenge would appreciate its harsh tannins, lack of fruitiness, and intense minerality. However, researchers believe that Aglianico was the primary grape variety used in Falernum, one of the most well-known wines of the Roman Empire. Aglianico is a highly tannic and rustic red wine, traditionally requiring about a decade of aging to become drinkable. Recently, Aglianico wines have gained popularity as winemakers have learned how to soften their robust, meaty tannins.
Sardinia (~1% DOC production).
Sardinia may appear similar to Sicily, an Italian island of similar size, but it boasts a unique wine portfolio. It is the only region in Italy that produces and consumes more beer than wine, yet it boasts some exceptional and rare varieties, such as Torbato, Nasco, Monica, Semidano, and Vermentino. The vast terroir of this region has contributed to the development of quality grapes that are slowly gaining international recognition.
Among the many excellent wines produced in Sardinia are those made from Cannonau and Vermentino grapes. It was later discovered that the grape Cannonau, a source of pride for Sardinians, is Grenache. The wine made from this grape in Sardinia has a rustic taste with notes of dried fruit. The wines produced in Sardinia are highly aromatic and are usually available at a great value.
Sicily (~1% DOC production).
Sicily is a beautiful and ancient place. Its rich soils, high altitude, and dry winds allow the island’s vineyards to produce a large tonnage of grapes per acre. Historically, winemakers focused on meeting market demands and prioritized quantity over quality. Consequently, only a few wines were considered good enough to bottle, resulting in mediocre quality and a poor reputation for Sicilian wines. However, with the help of renowned winemakers such as Giusto Occhipinti, Sicily has transformed its reputation from poor quality to luxury in just a few decades.
Today, they produce beautiful and magical wines from Frappato, Nerelo Mascalese, and Nero d’Avola. They also are making beguiling white wines from Moscato Bianco and Grillo. The greatest wines are fresh and delicate despite the hot African winds and the Mediterranean climate. The red wines from Sicily are dark, rich, and fruit-forward because of the warm climate. Nero d’Avola is a splendid red wine grape variety that deserves to be considered one of the best in the country.
Lazio (~2% DOC production).
It is unsurprising that vine growing was prevalent in Rome, the Roman Empire’s center. However, even before the Romans, the Etruscans already practiced winemaking in Lazio. The Etruscans were an early tribe that spread agriculture and winemaking practices throughout central Italy.
Lazio is known for producing primarily white wines, mostly from the Malvasia and Trebbiano grape families. Additionally, Lazio is home to refreshing and zesty Grechetto. While the region’s primary red wine is Merlot, its signature red wine is Cesanese.
Puglia (~3% DOC production).
Located at the Southern heel, this region has a geographical variety like no other. This is the hottest of the major Italian regions, and the wines are typically heavy and tannic. In the south, vines are grown on sandy but nutrient-rich flat vineyards. These differences in the soil greatly affect the wine produced there.
Sangiovese and Montepulciano – the classical central Italian grapes – are predominantly grown in the north, where vineyards can be found in hillier terroirs. The south is known for its Primitivo and Negroamaro varieties.
It’s interesting to note that Primitivo is not actually an Italian grape but originated in Croatia and was brought to Italy from across the Adriatic. In Croatia, the grape is called Crljenak Kaštelanski and is still grown there. In America, initially, it was cultivated in a greenhouse in Boston, Massachusetts, before being transplanted in Northern California and named Zinfandel.
Marche (~3% DOC production).
The Marche is situated in the Eastern part of Italy, between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains. The region produces an equal amount of white and red wines. The white wine made from Verdicchio is the most famous wine in the region due to its refreshing and aromatic qualities. Pecorino is another special white wine grape that is grown in Marche.
The southern areas of the Marche region are renowned for producing some of the finest red wines. One such wine is the Rosso Piceno, which deserves more attention. This wine must contain a minimum of 60% Sangiovese. Another noteworthy red wine is the Rosso Cònero, which is required to have at least 85% Montepulciano, and the winemaker has the option of adding 15% Sangiovese. Lacrima is a dark-skinned grape variety native to Italy’s Marche region. Once much more widespread, it is now used almost exclusively in the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC wines, which are usually varietal.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia(~6% DOC production).
Until the early 20th century, Friuli-Venezia Giulia was not considered part of Italy but a southern part of the Austrian Hapsburg empire. This rich region provided the Austro-Hungarian population with fruit, food, and wine. It is located in the far Northeastern corner of Italy. In total the region boasts four DOCGs, twelve DOCs, and three IGPs and is best known for its white wine production, some of them shared with neighboring regions (Veneto, Trentino).
Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s biggest wine export is Pinot Grigio, but its signature white grape is Friulano. The region produces a range of unique and intensely flavored Pinot Grigio styles, including Ramato, and is also responsible for a large quantity of Prosecco. Additionally, it is home to several other indigenous grape varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, and Picolit.
Trentino Alto-Adige (~6% DOC production).
This beautiful and lesser-known Italian region is located near the Alps in the Northern part of Italy and produces excellent white wines. Reflecting its complex geopolitical history, Trentino-Alto Adige is composed of two autonomous provinces. Trentino is almost entirely Italian speaking, while Alto Adige has a predominantly German-speaking population, who call their province Südtirol (South Tyrol), and also was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919. Due to its proximity to neighboring countries, you may come across wine labels printed in different languages besides Italian, such as German and Ladino.
The primary grape varieties are the indigenous Schiava, Lagrein, and Germanic varieties Gewurztraminer, and Müller-Thurgau (the latter two are sweeter). Increasing quantities of Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are grown here, as well as the red Bordeaux varieties.
The region has a cool climate with plenty of sunshine and alpine soils, which makes it an ideal place for growing grapes. Despite the region’s infrequent rainfall, it is perfect for producing white and sparkling wines. Pinot Grigio is a popular choice because of its zippy and mineral-driven taste. In Trento, they produce a sparkling wine made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that can easily rival the best Champagne.
Abruzzo (~7% DOC production).
Abruzzo is an Italian region on the east Adriatic coast and has one of Italy’s most contested identities. This region is highly mountainous and lush along the coastline, with most of it being nature reserves and forests. Yet, many publications and wine critics dismiss the region as insignificant; it has produced fine wine on a small scale for decades.
Abruzzo is home to two DOCG as well as seven DOC wine designations and is believed to be the birthplace of several grape varieties that thrive in Northern Italy and France. The primary grape varieties in Abruzzo are the white Trebbiano and red grape Montepulciano. The wines made from this red grape are known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. However, it can be a bit confusing as there is also a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is a wine from Tuscany made with Sangiovese. Montepulciano produces a dark, rich wine with high tannins and an herbaceous character, similar to Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, the classic Italian rosé Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo stands out and is worth trying.
Umbria (~7% DOC production).
If Tuscany lacked highways and supermarkets, it would resemble Umbria. While competing regions produce more wine, Umbria’s wine is highly regarded by sommeliers. The region is landlocked and located east of Tuscany. The region comprises 13 DOCs and two DOCGs. Like Marche and Lazio, Umbria is best known for its white wine production, though its two top level DOCG designations are for fuller-bodied red wines that age exceptionally well: Montefalco’s Sagrantino grape, which is an outstanding example of a grape with massive tannic strength and complexity; and Torgiano Rosso Riserva based on Sangiovese. Grechetto and Trebbiano are also among the signature grapes grown in this area.
Grechetto is the next most prominent white variety. It plays a supporting role in Orvieto and various other white wines in the region. Its minerally and zesty qualities resemble Pinot Grigio, with a distinct green almond flavor.
Lombardy (~7% DOC production).
Lombardy is a region in North-Central Italy, widely known for being the country’s industrial hub. The regional capital, Milan, is the second-largest city in Italy. But the region is also home to vast areas of unspoiled countryside, which host many small-scale wineries that produce a significant amount of the region’s wine output. A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy offers a wide range of high-quality and refined wine styles, and is home to five DOCG, 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles.
The region is famous for its Nebbiolo-based red and for sparkling wines (two sparking DOCGs). It is particularly renowned for its Sparkling wine, which is made using Pinot Nero, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc grapes in the same way as Champagne, especially in the Oltrepo Pavese area. Lombardy also produces red wines from Nebbiolo grapes in the Valtellina, called here Chiavennasca, which is a lighter and more delicate version of Nebbiolo, akin to Pinot Noir, and rosé wines in the regions surrounding Lake Garda.
Emilia-Romagna (~9% DOC production).
Emilia-Romagna is a rich, fertile region of Northern Italy. Its viticultural heritage dates back to the seventh century BC, ranking it among the oldest of Italy’s wine regions. The Etruscans introduced vines here that later were adopted by the Romans, who used the Via Aemilia Road (after which the region is named) to transport wine between its cities. About 15% of wine produced in Emilia-Romagna falls under the region’s 19 DOC denominations and only a tiny fraction under its two DOCGs (Albana di Romagna and Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto).
Emilia-Romagna’s famous Lambruscos come from five DOCs and match perfectly with Parma’s delicious cheeses. Lambrusco has long been considered a cheap, sweet, fruity wine. Now, there are several outstanding off-dry to totally dry Lambruscos from Emilia-Romagna.
Piedmont (~11% DOC production).
Situated on the border of France and Switzerland is Piedmont, Italy’s western Alpine region, which is renowned for producing some of the finest Italian wine varietals. Although alpine in nature, grapes ripen well in the summertime warmth. The evenings are cold due to the diurnal nature of the high altitudes. Piedmont is home more DOCs and DOCGs than any other Italian region, among them the well-known Barolo (the king of wines), Barbaresco, and Barbera d’Asti.
Nebbiolo is a grape with high tannins and a pale color that has long been famous for its bristling acidity and high tannin, while Barbera, from the Monferrato hills, is Piedmont’s workhorse grape and the region’s most widely planted variety. Besides the great Nebbiolo wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, another success story in the past decade has been the region’s sweet white Moscato d’Asti (sometimes not appreciated) and the underdog red varietal Dolcetto, which has several DOCs and three DOCGs dedicated to it. Other native grape varietals that are grown here include Brachetto, Bonarda, Pelaverga, Malvasia, and Arneis.
Tuscany (~17% DOC production).
Situated in Central Italy, Tuscany’s neighbors are Liguria and Emilia-Romagna to the north, Umbria and Marche to the east and Lazio to the south. Tuscany is a mesmerizing place and Italy’s oldest wine-growing region. Before the rise of Rome, Tuscany was the home of the Etruscans, an ancient winemaking culture with connections to the Phoenicians. The region’s top wines are officially recognized and protected by 41 DOC and 11 DOCG titles. There are also six more flexible IGP/IGT designations, with the pan-regional Toscana IGP representing nearly a quarter of total output.
At the center of Tuscany wine production is the dry red Sangiovese, the most important of all Italian wine grapes, which has been cultivated here for so many centuries that it has adapted to nearly every microclimate in the region. These include Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Chianti wine district is the most famous for Sangiovese. When Sangiovese became the required major grape in Chianti during the 1970s, the other noble non-native grapes (Cab and Merlot) ended up creating a new style of wine: Super Tuscan.
As Sangiovese is to the classics, Super-Tuscan is to the modern. Tuscan winemakers discovered they could make exceptional wines with Cabernet Sauvignon. The problem was that the grape was not allowed in classic Tuscan wines like Chianti, which has to be at least 80% Sangiovese. The laws eventually changed, but the die was set. After that, super-Tuscans were the rock stars of the Italian coast.
For white wines in this region, Trebbiano (Ugni Blanc) is the region’s most-planted white grape, followed by Malvasia and Vermentino, which has similarities to Sauvignon Blanc.Veneto (~18% DOC production).
The Veneto wine region is situated in the northeast corner of Italy, just to the west of Friuli Venezia Giulia. This region is renowned for growing grapes that are unique and not commonly found in other parts of Italy. Most grapes grown here are indigenous to Italy, with Garganega, Glera, Corvina and Rondinella being the most prevalent. In recent times, Pinot Grigio has also been introduced and has become very popular amongst wine lovers.
The climate is a rare balance of Mediterranean and Alpine influences, making it possible to grow grapes with minimal effort. Besides the great red blends of Valpolicella made with Corvina, Corvinone (a distinct variety) Rondinella and Molinara, there are also several fine Merlot wines in this area. The most famous wine of Veneto is Amarone della Valpolicella, a decadently rich dry wine made from partially dried grapes (passito). Garganega and Trebbiano are the white grape varieties here. Today, 25% of the region’s wine is made and sold under 27 DOC/DOCG titles.
Wine Tasting Program for 2024
Based on the previous information, the proposed Tasting Program for 2024 can be titled “Rediscovering the Wines of Italy,” It focuses on selected wines from these producing regions and grapes varieties from Italy.
Each selected region and wine variety would be introduced by the presenters with the aim of giving greater context to the topic that will be analyzed and the wines that will be tasted. Members will be able to choose among these suggested topics:
Introducing less-known grape varieties.
Presenting wines from specific regions, especially focused on less-known regions.
Analyzing the differences between wines that have distinct quality designations.Showcasing wines that require unique conditions for growth, harvesting, or production.
Discovering wines made from the oldest and most ancient grape varieties.
Discussing wines made from the same grapes but different regions and climates of the country.
Introducing Italian spumante wines.
Presenting various types of wines produced by a single winery.
Introducing small wineries from various regions aiming to showcase their unique qualities and the distinct flavors of their wines.
Presenting the premium selection of white wines from the country.
Presenting the finest red wine selection from the country.
In addition, members may wish to propose a wine tasting from a small/medium producing country not presented in the last few years (2019-2023) in order to complete the calendar year.
The objective of this tasting is to revisit the best wines from this year. We will enjoy the best white wine and will be able to compare the three best reds selected from the tastings of 2023.
Type of tasting: Semi blind
Presenter: John and Lucia Redwood
Participants: the list will be added after the tasting
Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Claro; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; A.&C. Perazza; J.&L. Redwood; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; R. Zavaleta; and G. Zincke
The Menu
Asparagus soup
Spinach and white cheese agnolotti with tomato sauce
Beef medallion with brown sauce and roasted potatoes
Coffee, tea and dessert
Wines Selection and Tasting Procedure
The methodology to select the wines was very simple: among the more than 40 wines tasted during 2023, all but those presented in May were rated in quantitative terms by the participants, regarding their quality (“best wine”). The numerical quality ratings for all the wines (whites and reds) sampled on 10 monthly tasting events during the year were ranked; the white wine with the highest rating and the three red wines with the highest ratings were selected. An interesting common feature of the “best of the best” wines selected is that, while they were evenly divided between Argentina and Chile, all four wines are blends rather than single varietals.
The tasting will follow the following procedure:
Blind tasting of the 3 reds in random order.
Participants may try to identify the red wines and will rank the wines by order of preference (subjective ranking).
The preferences will be aggregated and informed to the participants
The wines are revealed, and prices are disclosed.
Participants select ‘best value’ wine.
The Wines
The following wines were selected from the best wines in 10 tastings. The vintages may be different from the wines originally tasted because of availability in the market.
♦ Catena – Appellation White Clay, 2022 (2020 no longer available) – February 2023
The Producer: Bodega Catena Zapata located in Mendoza, Argentina.
Year – 2020
Varietal: White blend Semillon 60%; Chenin Blanc 40%.
Region: Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
Aging: Eight months in French oak barrels
13% APV
Tasting notes: Deeply aromatic with expressive citrus and peach with a rich and mineral finish. Pairs well with vegetables, pasta and grilled white meat.
“The grapes were harvested quite early and then fermented in stainless steel, managing to keep the alcohol to 13.5% in this warm and dry year. It’s balsamic and medicinal, with notes of yellow fruit and some spicy smokiness, as 35% of the wine matured in new barrels for seven to eight months. It’s soft and creamy without excess, combining volume and tasty flavors and a bitter twist in the finish” (Wine Advocate).
♦ Seña, Aconcagua Valley, 2020 (2019 no longer available) – March & April 2023
Vineyard: Close to the sea with the benefit of coastal winds and long hanging period.
Farming: Biodynamic and hand harvested.
Ageing: 22 months in 90% French oak barrels (80% new) and 10% foudres.
5% APV
Tasting notes: A deep and beautiful garnet-red color with violet hues, the 2020 Seña presents complexity on the nose with multiple layers of fresh red-fruit aromas such as cherries and raspberries accompanied by violets and pleasing touches of dill and rosemary, all framed by light notes of sweet spices. The palate shows young fruits, more sweet spices, and smooth balsamic tones. It is fresh and juicy with elegant fine-grained tannins that create a silky and pleasing sensation. The 2020 vintage shows elegance and balance with an ample and profound finish.
The 2020 Seña is a blend from grapes harvested early, the second week of March, and fermented mostly in stainless steel and 10% in concrete eggs. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and good freshness. It’s subtle and layered, not only fruit but with more spice; it has polished tannins and very integrated oak after 22 months in barrique, 78% new, and with 10% of the volume in large Stockinger barrels. …This wine has intensity and complexity, with no herbal or mint notes; it is spicy and juicy, with energy and depth. It has structure, color, stuffing, and acidity to develop nicely in bottle (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).
♦ Salentein Numina Gran Corte 2019 – Valle de Uco, Argentina – June 2023
The producer: The Bodega Salentien, located in the Uco Valley, Chile.
Vintage: 2019
Varietal Composition: 65% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet
Region: Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Vinification: Hand harvested, fermentation in 7,000L oak casks. The varieties of this blend were made separately and after 6 months aged in barrels, the barrels were emptied and the blend was made, which came back to the oak barrel to finish the ageing process. The total ageing time was 16 months.
5%APV
Tasting notes: It displays a bright, intense and deep purplish color. The aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes of vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure and a long finish.
Purple in the glass. The complex nose offers clearly defined notes of cigar box, vanilla, fresh plum, blackcurrant and bay leaf with hints of ash. Lean and juicy in the mouth with refined tannins, the flavors are driven by the oak (Vinous).
♦ Clos Apalta, 2018, Colchagua Valley, Chile – August 2023
Fermentation Type: 75% in 75hL French oak vats, 25% in new French oak barrels
Ageing: 25 Months in French oak barrels. 87% new French oak barrels, 13% in second use.
Tasting notes. Deep and inky purple red robe with dark blue edges. Intense, spicy with layers of red and black fruit on the nose, with cedar notes. Elegant tannins open towards a mid-palate that combines finesse and concentration, round and fresh. Exceptionally long finish.
CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing the wines and their prices. 14 participants rated them from to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Clos Apalta, 2018 was rated the Best Wine and Salentein ‘Numina Gran Corte, 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.
The Canelones wine region of Uruguay may be one of the lesser-known gems in the world of wine, but its growing recognition is well-deserved. With its unique terroir, diverse grape varieties, innovative viticulture practices, and unique maritime influence, Canelones is in the forefront of the Uruguayan wine industry. In this tasting, we’ll explore the Canelones wine region of Uruguay, delving into its history, climate, grape varieties, and the thriving wine culture that has emerged in recent years.
Type of tasting: Open
Presenter: Michelle Fryer
Participants: R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Boccalandro; J. Brakarz; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. Garcia; N. Marzella; C. Perazza; L. and J. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi and P. Meduña (invited).
These are the Wines:
Bouza ‘Albarino’, 2022
Pizzorno ‘Tannat Maceración Carbónica’, 2020
Bouza ‘Tannat,’ 2019
Bouza ‘Tannat A6 Parcela Unica’, 2018
The Menu:
Calamare sauteed in lemon sauce
Spaghetti Carbonara
Grilled NY Steak with Spinach and brown sauce on the side
Dessert, coffee, tea.
The Canelones Wine Region
Uruguay, often overshadowed by its wine-producing neighbors, Argentina and Chile, is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America. The Canelones wine region, located in the southern part of the country, is the epicenter of the country’s wine production and has been steadily gaining recognition for its exceptional wines. Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the capital city of Montevideo, Canelones is a region characterized by a temperate maritime climate, rolling hills, and fertile soils that provide an ideal environment for producing world-class wines.
History and Terroir. The Canelones wine region is Uruguay’s oldest and most prominent wine-producing area. Wine grapes have grown here for over 250 years, although commercial viniculture did not begin until the second half of the 19th Century when a wave of European immigrants brought rootstock and vines of different varietals to the country. The original transplants of Tannat were called “Harriague” in honor of the French Basque settler who introduced the varietal. Over the past few decades Uruguayan wine has emerged quietly and steadily onto the world market. In the past, most of the wine was table wine, produced mainly for the domestic market; but from the year 2000 onward, the consumption of table wine has declined year after year, and the production and consumption of high-quality wine has increased. Currently Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America, however a relatively small share (10%) of its wine is exported.
Canelones is responsible for 60% of the country’s wine production. It is therefore not only the epicenter of the Uruguayan wine industry, but for Tannat as well, with more of the variety planted within the department than anywhere else on Earth. The region owes its success to the combination of favorable climatic conditions, exceptional terroir, and a long growing season with ample sunlight, making it well-suited for the slow ripening of the fruit. It benefits from the temperate maritime climate which is characterized by cool breezes and a significant temperature range between day and night — both essential for the development of complex flavors in the grapes. Proximity to the Atlantic Ocean also results in refreshing acidity and mineral notes in white wines, and a softer tannin structure in red wines. Likewise, the Atlantic breeze plays a role in reducing the risk of pests and diseases in the vineyards; and the thick skin of the Tannat grape is impervious to the mildew that so readily affects more delicate varieties, allowing for sustainable and organic farming practices.
One of the most interesting assets of Uruguay is the wide diversity of soils. Uruguay has 99 classified soil types. The lengthy coastline on three sides of the country moderates the temperature and the absence of mountains exposes the landscape to weathering and erosion that has resulted in a relatively flat topography and formulated a variety of soil types throughout the country. The viticultural areas of the south have the deepest, most fertile soils. The Canelones region is characterized by diverse terroirs, including clay-rich soils, limestone, and sandy loam. The presence of volcanic rock and weathered granite helps to promote drainage. These varied soil types, along with the maritime influence and microclimates, allow winemakers to craft a wide spectrum of wines, from elegant and fruit-forward to structured and powerful.
The grape varietals: No summary of Uruguayan wine is complete without mention of Tannat, the robust, tannic red that has played such a pivotal role in the country’s rising wine status. Just as Chile has its Carmenere and Argentina its Malbec, so Tannat has become Uruguay’s ‘icon’ grape.
Tannat was originally known for its harsh tannins, high acidity and dark fruit that was nearly undrinkable upon release, but in Uruguay, vintners have found methods to soften the tannins and create powerful wines that taste of plums and blackberries. In addition to these fruit flavors, Tannat, when blended with other varieties, or produced in capable winemaking hands, tends to show off more complex notes of herbs, chocolate, leather, earth, and minerals.
Originally from southwest France, Tennat has found a second home in Uruguay and accounts for some 27 percent of the country’s plantings. The grape needs some humidity to balance its tannin, sugar, and acidity, otherwise, the sugars accumulate before the skin ripens; hence it thrives in the country’s favorable maritime climate, producing wines with intense dark red, bluish, and almost black color, often with violet reflections; and aromas of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and earthy undertones. In the best varietal examples, the tannins are strong but supple. These wines are often characterized by their robust structure and longevity, making them a unique representation of the region as a single varietal or in interesting blends.
While Tannat takes the lead, winemakers in the region have also started experimenting with other grape varieties, resulting in a growing portfolio of varietals that include Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah. These grapes add diversity to the region’s wine offerings, catering to a broader range of palates.
Wineries and Viticulture.Canelones is home to some 900 vineyards, many of which are family owned. These wineries often emphasize sustainable and organic practices, contributing to the region’s reputation for producing environmentally conscious wines. Larger commercial operations and boutique producers also contribute to the region’s dynamic winemaking landscape. Nonetheless, until recently, the world has taken little notice of Uruguayan wine. Very little is exported (up to 10% nationally) and winemaking is largely focused on the domestic market. In contrast to Argentina and Chile, Uruguay has few internationally recognized successes. Top producers such as Bodega Bouza, Garzon, Juanicó, and Pizzorno are newcomers in the international wine scene. These winemakers are investing in better equipment and technology and are known for their distinct winemaking styles and top-quality wines. As a result of better quality, the exports of these producers have increased. Bouza now exports 60% of its production, and Garzon ships out 73%, mainly to the United States.
Producer: Pizzorno Family Estates.Established in 1910, Pizzorno is a key producer in Canelones. Pizzorno’s mission is to produce “grapes of excellent quality, to obtain fine wines in limited series – the result of an acquired winemaking style that combines art and technology”. The winery has one of the most innovative portfolios in the region with Uruguay’s first carbonic maceration Tannat wines and ice wines. This fourth-generation family producer may be groundbreaking in their winemaking, but they also respect the century-long tradition of the family wine business. With 21 hectares of vineyards in Canelones, Pizzorno only uses Estate fruit in their wines. Pizzorno’s vineyards are located on a gentle slope with shallow, clay loam soils and calcareous material, and planted with Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Arinarnoa, Marselan, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Moscatel de Hamburgo. Vineyard management is focused on green harvesting and careful canopy management to achieve full ripeness and the best quality grapes. All the grapes are hand harvested and the winemakers carefully choose the harvest date based on sensorial and chemical analysis of the grapes.
The Wine:
Vintage: 2020
Variety: 100% Tannat.
Vinification: carbonic maceration; aged in bottle for 2 yrs.
Alcohol 13.5%.
Press and Points: 91 pts., Tim Atkin; 92 Pts., Descorchados.
Winemaker notes: Bright and fresh because of how it’s made, this wine is lean for a Tannat. Carbonic maceration is an ancient vinification technique that has its origin in Greece and Rome. Carbonic maceration keeps the wine’s fruit flavors extra fresh and intense, with less tannin and overall extraction. It works like this: whole grape clusters are harvested and transported to the winery in 10kg boxes to preserve the integrity of the grape. The grape clusters are next placed in a large concrete tank that is sealed for 20 days. The grapes on the bottom get crushed under the weight of those above them, and they start to ferment naturally from the yeast on the skins. As CO2 is released, it pushes out oxygen and keeps the grapes fresh. Eventually, so much CO2 builds up that the rest of the grapes’ skins burst. Hence, carbonic maceration! Pizzorno is the only commercial winery to process the Tannat grape this way. This technique produces a lively, juicy, and subtly herbaceous wine which has a soft palate due to decreased acidity, while increasing the extraction of aromas. Following the fermentation process, the wine is parked in the bottle for 2 years.
Tasting notes: light ruby color with violet reflections and medium intensity. Red fruits such as raspberry or cherry and banana on the nose. On the mouth, balanced, smooth, balanced acidity, low intensity of tannins.
Wine #2. Bouza ‘Albarino’ 2022
Producer: Bodega Bouza. Without a doubt, the leading winery for tourism in this region is Bouza. The Bouza family are true visionaries. They pioneered fine wines in Uruguay, were the first to plant Albariño there, and opened Uruguay’s first fine-dining winery restaurant.
Juan and Eliza Bouza are relatively new to the wine industry, having co-founded the project with renowned Uruguayan winemaker Eduardo Boido in 2000. From the very beginning, Bouza has focused on making premium wines and over the last ten years has established itself as Uruguay’s most critically acclaimed producer.
What’s interesting about Bouza’s story is how, even as new producers, they looked to their ancestors to pave their path in wine. Coming from families of Galician descent, and with some extended family still in Rias Baixas, they asked their family for Galician vines and planted Albariño in Canelones and Montevideo in 2001. This rather inspired move saw them not only make the first Albariño wines in South America, but ignite an important Albariño movement in Uruguay, which is undoubtedly the rising star of Uruguay’s white wines.
The success of Bouza’s Albariño has also encouraged the winery to expand farther afield, planting new vineyards in the rare syenite soils of Pan de Azúcar, and a hilltop vineyard on poor, volcanic soils in Las Espinas in the Maldonado region. But for now, the lion’s share of Bouza’s wines still comes from the traditional wine regions of Canelones and Montevideo, where they have three vineyards, including their prized vineyard in Las Violetas.
To increase biodiversity and reinforce the balance between pests and their natural enemies, Bouza alternates grapes with rows of plant cover composed of herbs characteristic of the Uruguayan natural meadow. The harvest begins in early February with the Pinot Noir variety, followed by our white varieties Albariño, Chardonnay and Riesling; then continues with the Merlot and Tempranillo tints, usually ending in mid-March with the emblematic variety of Uruguay, Tannat.
Vintage: 2022
Variety: 100% Albarino
Appellation: Canelones
Vinification: 90% fermented in stainless steel tanks and 10% in French Oak barrels; aged 4 months over its lees; unfiltered,
Alcohol 13.5%.
Points and Press: 92 Points, James Suckling; 92 Points, Tim Atkin; 95 Points, Descorchados.
Winemaker notes: If you take Rias Baixas in Galicia, Spain – where this grape is from – and transposed it west and south to the coast of South America, you’d end up in Uruguay! For this reason, Albariño does well there. This Albarino is super fresh, with minerals adding extra waxiness in the mid-palate. Gala apple and salinity are the two flavors that define this wine. The recommended serving temperature is 54oF.
Tasting notes: Pale yellow color, with golden highlights. Aromas of peach and white flowers, pineapple, and pear. Moving the glass, pineapple enhances its presence, vanilla and caramel appear. Sweet entrance in the mouth with a slow evolution and a balanced acidity. Long finish.
Wine #3. Bouza Tannat 2019
Vintage: 2019
Variety: 100% Tannat
Viticulture: Grapes are sourced from three maritime influenced sites: Melilla, a fairly cool climate site that surrounds the winery; Las Violetas, a warmer, clay driven site; and Pan de Azucar.
Vinification: fermented for 12 days at 79oF degrees in steel tanks, then aged for 16 months in French and American oak barrels.
Appellation: Canelones
Alcohol 14.5%.
Points and Press: 93 Points, James Suckling; 93 Points, Uncorked.
Winemaker notes: Tannat literally means “Tannic,” but not as a warning. Instead, it signals that wines made from this grape will have a distinctly textural expression, giving the wine more contour and size. Wild dark fruits abound, and the wine also sees oak, adding herbal notes and smoothing the tannins. James Suckling observed that this wine is a “complex, engaging expression of Tannat, showing dark, meaty fruit, black spices, some black earth, tar and hints of cocoa powder and oyster sauce. Medium-to full-bodied and juicy with fine-grained tannins and a lengthy finish. Showing power, natural concentration and good precision.” The grapes were grown in the clay and limestone soils of the Melilla and Las Violetas vineyards and handpicked between March 6-18, 2019. The recommended serving temperature is 60o F.
Tasting notes: Intense red color. Fruit aromas include raspberry and blackberry. Notes of quince and tobacco. Balanced acidity, good volume, and present tannins. Very long finish. Garnet red color with petrol highlights. Very expressive in the nose with black fruits, mulberries, cassis, raisins, over an elegant smoky background. Velvety but marked tannins. Balanced and persistent final bouquet.
Wine # 4. Bouza ‘Tannat A6 Parcela Unica’, 2018
Vintage:2018
Variety: 100% Tannat
Appellation: Canelones
Viticulture: Grapes sourced from single parcel in Melilla. Dry farmed for maximum depth of flavor in the finished wine.
Vinification: Manual selection of the grapes. Controlled fermentation at 26oC, with 2 pump overs and 1 pipeage a day. Total maceration 12 days. 17 months in new French and American oak barrels.
Alcohol: 16%.
Points and Press: 90 Wine Enthusiast, 93 points Descorchados
Winemaker notes: This wine is a single parcel Tannat that Bouza considers one of its masterpieces. The quality of fruit here is exceptional, but it’s the tannins and overall texture of the wine that’s sublime. According to Vivino, the wine is currently the #1 “top Uruguay Tannat wine in the United States.” Sourced from Melilla, the relatively cool-climate vineyard that surrounds the winery, planted rows are uniquely topped with two feet of pink granite from a local quarry to collect and radiate additional heat for these grapes. This bottling showcases the savory/smoky/earthy side of Tannat, and is one of the richest, balanced, most memorable examples of single-vineyard Tannat produced in Uruguay. Wine Enthusiast notes that… “coffee and black fruit aromas shape the nose and lead to flavors of grass and plum. Oak flavors are slightly intense but well integrated. It has a full body, smooth tannins, and a long finish with hints of black olive and nutmeg”. It can be conserved for 12-15 years. The recommended serving temperature is between 16-18o C.
Tasting notes: Intense purple color. Plum raisins aroma. Quince marmalade and toasted notes. Balanced mouth, with big volume and smooth tannins. Long finish.
CV Members rating:
The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. Fifteen participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Bouza ‘Tannat’, 2019 was rated the Best Wine and the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.