Tasting # 287 – March 31, 2026 – Tasting Spätburgunder  

Posted on March 28, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting #287 – March 31, 2026    Tasting   Spätburgunder  

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The  objective of this tasting is to compare Spätburgunder from three different regions of Germany. Spätburgunder is the name of Pinot Noir in Germany.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Erico Silva, Nick Marzella and Ricardo Santiago

Participants: to be listed

These are the wines:

  1. Rebholz – Spatburgunder R 2021
  2. Meyer Näkel Spätburgunder 2022
  3. Meyer Näkel Spätburgunder Blue Slate 2022
  4. Thörle Spätburgunder 2022.

  1. Menu

  • Insalata di Caprese
  • Gnocchi “au-Gratin” in a Ragu sauce topped with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese
  • Salmone alla Griglia with olive oil and lemon sauce
  • Dessert, coffee and tea

 

  1. Wine Industry in Germany

              Overview

Germany cultivates a focused set of grapes varieties in comparison with France, Italy, and Spain.

Historically, Germany is at the limits of ‘Vitis vinifera’s viability in the northern hemisphere. Few varieties could be cultivated due to its temperature, frost, and topography.

More than 130 wine grape varieties are officially allowed for cultivation. However, only about two dozen varieties are commercially or culturally significant.

Nowadays, about 103,390 hectares are under vine, being 68% white grape varieties and 32% black grape varieties.

German Wine Classification

Germany’s national classification system was recently reformed to improve clarity and transparency. Those reforms have full effect this year (2026).

The 1971 Wine Law — “Ripeness Rules”

For most of the 20th century, in a marginal region like Germany, the essential question was: How ripe can grapes become each short, cool vintage? German wine classification was set up to reward growers who achieved peak ripeness.

German legislators enshrined this paradigm in the 1971 German Wine Law. It pointedly pinned quality to sweetness or potential alcohol but brushed aside terroir and the elements of viticulture and vinification — historic sites, yields, additions, élevage — which contribute to the precise expression of terroir.

The 1971 law set up classifications for Germany’s basic wines, Qualitätsweine, or “quality wines,” and Prädikat: wines with “specific attributes” that were required to meet increasingly selective criteria, mostly ascending ripeness levels.

The VDP and Terroir–Based Classification[1]

The VDP — Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter a private association of roughly 200 German growers recognized that the national classification system failed to address changes in taste and climate. Both had begun to favor the production of dry wines. Moreover, the national system had all but erased the identity of Germany’s most acclaimed vineyards.

So, in 2002, with one eye on Burgundy, the other on restoring the prestige and marketability of top German wines, the VDP rolled out its own terroir-based classification system. The VDP’s prominence meant that its quality hierarchy gained widespread acceptance as a second, parallel system of classification — albeit only usable by its members. Today, its four-tier classification structure looks like this:

All four tiers are for dry wines. Specifications include:

VDP.GUTSWEIN (estate level) from estate-grown grapes, with maximum yields of 4.5 tons/ac or 75 hl/ha 

VDP.ORTSWEIN (village level) from top sites from a single village, with the same yield limits as for VDP.GUTSWEIN

VDP.ERSTES GEWÄCHS (“premier cru”) sourced from recognized Erste Lage (“premier cru”) sites; maximum yields are 3.6 tons/ac or 60 hl/ha 

VDP.GROSSE GEWÄCHS (“grand cru”) sourced from recognized Grosse Lage sites; maximum yields are 3 tons/ac or 50 hl/ha.

The VDP also has a separate classification for Sekt, or traditional-method sparkling wine:

VDP.Sekt (minimum 15 months on lees, 24 months in bottle) 
VDP.Sekt Prestige (36 months on lees, 36 months in bottle). 

The 2021 German Wine Law — Origins Matter After All

It turns out that having two parallel, complex systems was not the way to win over converts to German wine, so in 2021 Germany got a new wine law — and, with it, a new classification system. Under the motto “The smaller the origin, the higher the quality,” German wines are now largely classified by terroir, not ripeness. 

The new law and classification do not have full effect until this year (2026). Up to and including vintage 2025, German wines may still be labeled under the old rules and kept on the market. 

The 2021 classification does not change the existing Prädikate. The additional indication of Prädikate is still allowed by the 2021 wine law for all categories of Qualitätswein (except Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs).

What does change is that quality is now assessed by narrowing geographic specificity. The three main tiers are: Deutscher Wein (German wine); Landwein (Country wine); Qualitätswein (Quality wine).

Deutscher Wein is the most basic wine category, with more laxed requirements and no PGI or PDO designation.

Landwein requires at least 85% of the grapes originate in a given wine region. Landwein is typically Trocken (dry) or Halbtrocken (off-dry). This is equivalent to EU’s PGI denomination.

The vast majority (60-80%, the share depends on the vintage) of German wine is classified as Qualitätswein. These wines must originate entirely from a single German Anbaugebiet or wine region – one of 13 in Germany – and the region must be declared on the label. Wines can only be made from legally permitted grapes and must reach a minimum alcohol content as prescribed for the region. Among the notable provisions of the 2021 wine law, the term Qualitätswein can now be accompanied or replaced by the term geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g.U.) or PDO, combined with the name of a winegrowing area.

Qualitätswein is now subdivided into four narrowing tiers of origin. These are: Anbaugebiet (wine region), Region or Bereich (district), Ort (village), and Lage (vineyard). Lage sits at the apex of this pyramid. 

The 2021 law then goes further, splitting Lage into three rising quality levels:

Einzellage (single vineyard) wines must reach a certain ripeness level; further specifications are set regionally.

Erstes Gewächs (premier cru) are white or red wines produced from a single variety identified as traditional and characteristic of a particular region. Yields may not exceed 3.6 tons/ac or 60 hl/ha on flat land, or 4.2 tons/ac or 70 hl/ha on steep slopes. Potential alcohol must be at least 11% and come from a declared vintage and site or parcel. The wine must be vinified dry and pass a sensory evaluation by an official tasting committee. Erstes Gewächs may not be released before March 1 of the year following the vintage. 

Grosses Gewächs (grand cru) are the pinnacle. Only white and red wines produced from a single variety identified as traditional and characteristic of a particular region qualify as “GG”s. Manual harvest is required. Yields are capped at 3 tons/ac or 50 hl/ha. Potential alcohol must be at least 12%. The wine must come from a declared vintage and a particular site or parcel. The wine must be vinified dry and pass a sensory evaluation by official tasting committee. Grosse Gewächse may not be released before September 1 of the year following the vintage if white and June 1 of the second year after the vintage if red. The new law goes so far as to allow parcels within a single vineyard to be stated on a wine label, provided that these Gewannen, or cadastral vineyards, are entered in an official vineyard register.

 

  1. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

It is Germany’s leading black grape variety. In Germany, the Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is to red wine what the Riesling is to white wine: the cream of the crop. The grape ripens with distinct acidity and moderate tannins and produces wines ranging from light to full-bodied, depending on the region of cultivation.

It is widely cultivated across nearly all German wine regions, with notable significance in Ahr, Baden, Franken, Hessische Bergstraße, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Württemberg.

The Ahr region holds the largest concentration of Spätburgunder vineyards in Germany.

Between 1980 and 2020, the vineyard area dedicated to Spätburgunder in Germany nearly tripled and today, Germany is the third-largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, after France and the United States.

The traditional style of Spätburgunder is lighter in color, body and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates.

High demands on location and climate

Aroma: blackberries, cherries, strawberries, elderberries, pepper.

Cultivation and significance

Demanding in terms of soil, climate and weather conditions, Pinot Noir is the number one red grape variety in Germany.

In Germany, around 11,519 hectares (2023) of vineyards are planted with the Pinot Noir variety, which corresponds to around 11 per cent of the total vineyard area. Wine growers and consumers are increasingly favoring the variety. Since the beginning of the 1990s, the area planted with Pinot Noir has grown by more than 5,000 hectares. Most of the vines of this variety are in Baden (5,029 hectares) – with a focus on Kaiserstuhl. The Palatinate (1,739 ha), Rheinhessen (1,504 ha), Württemberg (1,302 ha), the Rheingau (403 ha) and the Ahr (342 ha) are also important areas for growing Pinot Noir.

Vinification and flavor

Pinot Noir wines taste full-bodied and velvety, with a fruity flavor and hints of almond. The typical Pinot Noir has a slightly sweetish aroma of red fruit, from strawberry to cherry and blackberry to blackcurrant. Barrique wines also have hints of vanilla and cinnamon. A distinction is made between the classic and the modern type. Traditionally, the best Pinot Noirs were made from very ripe grapes, were not very colorful, mild, low in tannins and reddish-red in color. In addition to this classic type, the modern Pinot Noir with a strong red color, more tannin, less acidity and often a short ageing period in small oak barrels is becoming increasingly important.

History

The Pinot Noir grape variety belongs to the Burgundy family. It is probably one of the earliest varieties to be selected from the wild vines in western Central Europe. Charles the Fat brought the variety to Lake Constance in 884. It was planted in the Rheingau in the 13th century. In the 16th century, it was probably also planted in the Palatinate. In the 18th century, the variety is said to have travelled from Burgundy to the Ahr. The variety experienced a boom 150 years ago with the expansion of sparkling wine production, for which pure Burgundy vineyards were planted. The terms “Pinot Noir” and, in parts of Baden, “Klevner” are used as synonyms.

 

  1. The Wine Regions for this Tasting

The Spätburgunder in our tasting comes from three of the country’s wine regions: Ahr, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen

                                            

Ahr – Red Wine Paradise

The Ahr is one of Germany’s northernmost wine regions. It is also one of the smallest, with vineyards extending only 24 km along the Ahr River as it flows toward the Rhine just south of Bonn. From Altenahr, in the west, to the spa town Bad Neuenahr, the vines are perched on steep, terraced cliffs of volcanic slate. In the broad eastern end of the valley, the slopes are gentler and the soils are rich in loess. Four out of five bottles of Ahr wine are red — velvety to fiery Spätburgunder and light, charming Portugieser predominate. Lively, fresh Riesling is the most common white wine produced here. Another specialty of the region is the red variety Frühburgunder.

The Ahr Valley is on the fringe of the protective Eifel Hills. Climate is mild and favorable, greenhouse-like in some of the steeper sites. Soil types are deep, rich loess in the lower Ahr Valley (eastern portion); slate, volcanic stone and rocky soils in the middle Ahr Valley (western portion). The Ahr River meanders dreamily in tight bends through the bizarre rock landscape towards the Rhine and the vineyards nestle above on barren rocks. The mild climate provides the grapes with ideal conditions, as the warmed rocks release their stored heat to the vines at night.

Vineyard area (2022): 529 ha · 1 district · 1 collective vineyard site · 40+ individual sites.

Grape varieties (2022) include 20% white and 80% red. Spätburgunder (64.3%), Riesling (8.7%), Frühburgunder (5.9%) as well as Müller-Thurgau and Portugieser.

Today, the Ahr Valley in the north of Rhineland-Palatinate presents itself as a distinguished red wine growing region. In addition to Spätburgunder, the king of red vines, Frühburgunder is also valued and is one of the specialties of the region.

The top Ahr wines can only be produced with great effort and dedication. To work on the vines and harvest, the winegrowers often must climb through rugged crevices in extremely steep slopes, where sometimes only a few vines stand side by side. Top quality rewards this arduous work in such extreme vineyards.

Most growers are members of the five cooperatives that produce and market about 75% of the region’s wine. The State Wine Domain at the 12th century monastery Kloster Marienthal is the Ahr’s largest wine estate. Nearly all the region’s wine is consumed locally or sold to tourists. 

Pfalz – Where Almond Trees Bloom

Pfalz is located between the densely forested Haardt Mountains (an extension of the Vosges) and the Rhine plain, extending from south of Worms all the way to the French border. For over 85 uninterrupted kilometers, Pfalz’s vineyards sweep across this remarkably pretty, peaceful land, linking the 130 wine towns of the region between Bockenheim and Schweigen on the border with Alsace.

The climate is influenced by many hours of sunshine, with average temperature of 11°C. In terms of soils, Loam is prevalent, often in a mixture with other soil types, such as loess, chalk, clay, colored sandstone or sand.

Vineyard area (2022): 23,698 ha · 2 districts · 25 collective vineyard sites · 300+ individual sites. 

Grape varieties (2022) 61% white and  39% red. Riesling (25.2%), Dornfelder (10.7%), Grauburgunder (9%),  Müller–Thurgau (6.9%), Spätburgunder (7.2%) as well as Portugieser, Weißburgunder, Kerner and Chardonnay.

Pfalz is the second largest German wine-growing region. The focus of the winegrowers is on classic grape varieties, especially Riesling. The king of white wines has become the undisputed leader in the Pfalz with nearly 6,000 hectares cultivated, and several other white verieties are on the rise. Red wines are becoming increasingly important. There is lively, fresh Weißherbst from the Portugieser grape, fruity Pinot Noir and as a special Pfalz success story, Dornfelder, which has been creating a sensation for several years. This deep-colored and quite complex red wine is mostly produced in a dry style with southern charm. About 40% of the vines between the Rhine and Haardt mountains now carry red grapes, making the Pfalz the largest red wine region in Germany.

About a third of the region’s wine is sold directly to consumers and 50% is marketed through commercial wineries and some two dozen cooperative cellars.

Rheinhessen – Land of a Thousand Hills

Germany’s largest wine region, Rheinhessen, lies in a valley of gentle rolling hills. While vines are virtually a monoculture in the Rheingau or along the Mosel, they are but one of many crops that share the fertile soils of this region’s vast farmlands. Wine has been grown here on the left bank of the Rhine since the Romans, and the oldest document about a German vineyard location – the Niersteiner Glöck – concerns a wine location in Rheinhessen.

The climate is mild as the region is surrounded by protective hills and forests: in the west, the forested, hilly countryside known as “Rheinhessen’s Switzerland”; in the north by the Taunus Hills; and in the east, the Oden Forest.

Soil types are mostly loess, limestone and loam, often mixed with sand or gravel, are the main soil types. “Rotliegendes” is a red, slaty-sandy clay soil in the steep riverfront vineyards of Nackenheim and Nierstein and near Bingen, there is an outcropping of quartzite-slate. 

Vineyard area (2022): 27,312 ha · 3 districts · 24 collective vineyard sites · 400+ individual sites 

Grape varieties (2022): 74% white and 26% red. Riesling (19.4%), Müller-Thurgau (14.3%), Dornfelder (11.3%), Silvaner (7.1%), Pinot Gris (8.5%), Pinot Noir (5.5%), Pinot Blanc, Portugieser and Kerner

Varied soils and the favorable climate make it possible to grow many grape varieties, old and new. In earlier times, it was a blend of whites that were popular, and some may remember Rheinhessen as the birthplace of the soft, mellow white wine Liebfraumilch. The region also boasts the world’s largest acreage planted with the ancient variety Silvaner, which is again making a name for itself. Now, a new young generation of local wine growers, appreciating the ideal working conditions on these gentle slopes, have drawn attention to themselves in recent years for their excellent wines, amongst them, high quality Rieslings.

There are a large number of part-time winegrowers in the region who sell grapes or bulk wine to commercial wineries and producer associations who produce and/or bottle and market the wine. Because of the large number of individual sites, about half the region’s wine is marketed under the name of a few collective sites (e.g. Niersteiner Gutes Domtal, and Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen). About one third of all Rheinhessen wine is exported, not least because it is the primary supplier of the components for “Liebfrauenmilch“.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Okonomierat Rebholz, ‘R’ Spätburgunder, Pfalz, 2021

– The Producer: Weingut Rebholz family has long been defined by a steadfast commitment to producing pure, natural, and authentically dry wines. This began with Eduard Rebholz (1889–1966) who transformed the winery after World War II and rejected the growing trend toward sweetened, manipulated wines. In 1951, he articulated his principle of “natural wine”: wines made without sugar additions, artificial sweetening, or any intervention that alter their original character. For him, true quality began in the vineyard, and cellar work should preserve — not modify — the wine. His son, Hans Rebholz (1920–1978), continued this uncompromising dry style, even when it was unfashionable in Germany. Since the mid‑1990s, Hans’s son Hansjörg and wife Birgit have led the estate, expanding vineyard holdings, joining the VDP, and strengthening their commitment to sustainability through organic and later biodynamic certification. Their sons, Hans and Valentin, represent the next generation embracing these same values.

All vineyards have been organically farmed since 2006. The estate places great importance on old vines, essential for producing top‑quality wines. The Burgundy varieties grow on shell limestone and calcareous loess.  Limestone soil is the best condition for all the great Burgundy /Pinot Noir wines of the World!

The “R” wines represent Hansjörg Rebholz’s cross‑generational contribution to the legacy of his father, a tradition the next generation continues with the same focus and dedication to quality. The “R” label marks wines that have always been aged in barriques. By firmly establishing barrique aging for top Burgundy varieties, Hansjörg made it a defining discipline of the Rebholz estate. These wines gain depth and finesse with every passing year.

– The Wine:

  • Year – 2021
  • Grape – 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: Organic farming across all vineyards since 2006; focus on keeping old vine parcels healthy, young, and productive. Siebeldingen’s soils are highly diverse due to the geological formation of the Rhine Rift Valley and the uplift of the Palatinate Forest.
  • Vinification: Healthy, ripe grapes are hand‑harvested and destemmed; Pinot Noir berries is added whole to the destemmed mash; the mash is cooled for cold maceration to capture varietal and site‑specific aromas; spontaneous natural fermentation begins to preserve freshness while extracting structure and complexity; pressing usually occurs after about three weeks; the must is clarified by natural sedimentation
  • Aging: 19–20 months in French barriques
  • 5% APV

Producer’s Tasting Notes: Dense and complex structure with lots of character. In the bouquet you will find the scent of sour cherry, black pepper and herbs. A Pinot Noir with an eerie spiciness where the oak is in the background. Unfiltered, juicy, elegant and with a long aftertaste.

Wine #2 Meyer Näkel, Spätburgunder, Ahr, 2022

– The Producer: Weingut Meyer-Näkel is a producer in Dernau in the Ahr Region. It is best known for red wines made from the Spätburgunder wine grape variety, though the portfolio also includes whites and rosé. The name of the wine estate goes back to the marriage of grandparents Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel in 1950. They cultivated an area of just 1.5 hectares yet were able to make a name for themselves, because Willibald’s production of dry red wines represented thoroughly pioneering work at the time. As of 2021 the vineyard holdings had grown to 15 hectares of Pinot Noir. The business was managed by Willibald’s son Werner, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dörte. The two sisters are now proceeding with making the magnificent terroir of the steep slopes by the Ahr tangible in mineral-laden and fruity wines. This requires a great deal of care in the vineyard as well as reduced yields, which are harvested by hand and carefully selected. The work in the cellar focuses exclusively on preserving this high level of quality through a gentle working method.

 

– The Wine:

    • Vintage: 2023
    • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP-GUTSWEIN
  • Vineyard & winemaking: The vineyard is in the Ahr Region and the soil is slate and greywacke decomposition stone. The grapes are hand picked with crushed must fermentation and matured in big oak barrels.
  • 0% ABV

Producer Tasting Notes: This wine is a typical traditional Ahr Pinot. In the nose you find a slightly earthy aroma of red berries like blackberry, blueberry and raspberry as well as ripe cherries, strawberries and blackberries with spicy traces of juniper and laurels. A smooth wine with elegant tannin structure and good substance.

This wine goes well with poultry, light meat, pasta and mushrooms as well as a spicy companion to grilled stronger spiced fish.

Wine #3. Meyer Näkel, Spätburgunder ‘Blauschiefer’ (Blue Slate), Ahr, 2022

– The Wine: VDP.ORTSWEINE denotes high-quality, characterful and traditional vineyards within a town and give expression to the local terroir. Only regional varieties are used. Reduced yield yields and a long ripening period on the vine enable the typical aroma and elegant acidity and tannin structure. The slate soils of the Ahr River give Spätburgunder an unmistakable minerality that is truly unparalleled, making it something unique.

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP ORTSWEIN
  • Viticulture: There are three vineyards Dernauer Pfarrwingert (1.2ha), Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg (1.4ha) and Walporzheimer Kräuterberg (0.7ha) for the cultivation of several grapes, but the majority (75%) are Pinot Noir.
  • Vinification: The fully ripened grapes are hand picked (yield of 40-45hl/ha), the crushed must is fermented with natural yeasts for about 20 days.
  • Aging: 11 months in French Oak barriques, for the most part in used barrels just to underline this elegant wine.
  • 13% ABV.

Producer Tasting Notes: The Blue Slate (“Blauschiefer”) is a very good example of the extraordinary combination of slate and Pinot Noir. The stony soil creates a mineral wine with smoky aroma of red fruits like blackberry, blueberry, red currant and dark cherry, that is accompanied by floral and roasted aromas, with a good substance and sustainability, elegant and smooth tannins.

This wine goes well with poultry, light meat, pasta and mushrooms as well as a spicy companion to grilled stronger spiced fish.

 

 

Wine #4. Thörle, Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen, 2022

– The Producer: The Thörle Estate dates back to the 16th century. In 1985 Rudolf Thörle took over from his father Jakob Thörle and set the estate’s focus more on the traditional varietals Riesling and Pinot Noir. In the following years, the Thörle family acquired and planted excellent parcels in Salheim’s Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards sites to expand the estate’s diversity of terroir. Since 2006 the state has been in the hands of the next generation, Johannes and Chrisph Thörle, who manage the winery with innovative skills.

The Thörle brothers obtain their distinctive, sappy Riesling and delicate Pinot Noir from the characteristically calcareous limestone soils of Saulheim’s Holle, Scholssberg and Probstey. They have received several prizes and awards for their individual approach and new pressing techniques. To ensure maximum extraction from the grapes, they apply mash retention and use spontaneous yeast for the fermentation process. Today, the Thörle estate ranks among the best producers in Rheinhessen.

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP GUTSWEINE
  • Viticulture and winemaking: grown in the younger vineyards around Saulheim. The soils are characterized by limestone sediments and loess-clay deposits. Grapes harvested by hand at an optimal balance of aroma, acidity, and ripeness. The harvest time is particularly crucial for Pinot Noir. Skin-fermented, extract-rich Pinot Noir was aged for 18 months in traditional French barriques (225l). Bottled unfiltered.
  • 13% ABV

Producer Tasting Notes: The nose offers wild aromas and intense dark fruit. On the palate, a hint of herbal mint, fine acidity, and a powerful minerality. Pure Pinot Noir!

Critic’s tasting notes: “Drinking window: 2024 – 2040. This 2022 Pinot Noir is from a mix of German and French genetics. Fully destemmed and fermented in open cuve, it graduated for 18 months in used barrique. A touch of smoke wraps itself around aromatic wild cherry. Cool, smooth balance is immediately apparent on the palace—coolness, in fact, is the operative term, even in this warm year. Fully ripe tannins brush like starched velvet, rounded but really fine. The wild cherry aroma is beguiling and pure, while the freshness is pristine, pure and expressive. My oh my, this is quite a number for an estate Pinot Noir. Bone-dry” (Vinous, 2022).

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

 

Notes and References

German Wine Scholar, Study Guide, Wine Scholar Guild, 2025.

Understanding German Wine Classification, Valerie Kathawala, Wine Scholar Guild Blog, 01 January 2025 (Understanding German Wine Classification)

Wines of Germany:  https://www.winesofgermany.com

Wine Folly: Download Wine Maps (Free Guides) | Wine Folly

Veritable Wines: https://www.veritable-wines-estates.de/partner/thoerle

The GWC: https://thegwc.com/meyer-na%CC%88kel/

Rebholz: https://www.oekonomierat-rebholz.com/

Meyer-Naekel: https://www.meyer-naekel.de/

Thorle: https://www.thoerle-wein.de/

[1] Source: https://www.vdp.de/en/the-wines/classification

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Just for laughing:

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Tasting No 286 – February 24, 2026 – Mediterranean, Atlantic and Etna

Posted on February 24, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 286 – February 24, 2026

Mediterranean, Atlantic and Etna, three terroirs in contrast

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The selection of Sicily (Etna), the Canary Islands (Valle de la Orotava), and Priorat aims to compare wines produced in extreme territories, where soil and climate profoundly shape their character. Although these regions are very different, they share something in common: an intense mineral expression.

Despite not being part of the Mediterranean,  the Canary Islands were included for the following :

  1. We haven’t had a tasting of wines from the Canary Islands at the Club, notwithstanding having a winemaking tradition of high‑quality wines.
  2. Their volcanic origin creates a natural dialogue with Sicily, while their lightness contrasts with the power of Priorat, enriching the comparison.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters: Clara Estrada and Jorge García-García

Participants:  R. Arroio; J. Brakarz; Y. Cutler; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; G. García; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; G. Smart; L. Uechi; and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

  1. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, 2024
  2. Envínate, Migan Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands, 2022
  3. Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022
  4. Vall Llach – Porrera Vi de Vila, Priorat DOCa, 2022

The Menu

  • Mediterranean citrus calamari salad
  • Mushroom risotto
  • Braised beef short ribs in a red wine reduction
  • Dessert, coffee and tea

  1. The Wine Regions

The Canary Islands: Viticultural History and Mediterranean Connection

Viticulture in the Canary Islands began after the European conquest of the archipelago in the 15th century, when settlers, merchants, and religious orders—mainly from the Iberian Peninsula, Portugal, and other Mediterranean regions—introduced Vitis vinifera varieties. Many of these grapes, common in the Mediterranean—such as Malvasia, Listán, and others now extinct in continental Europe—found in the volcanic soils and mild climate of the islands an exceptional environment for adaptation. From the beginning, vine cultivation in the Canaries was closely linked to Mediterranean and Atlantic trade routes, with the archipelago acting as a bridge between the two worlds.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Canary wine industry flourished thanks to the production of sweet wines, especially those made from Malvasia, which were exported massively to England, Flanders, and the Americas. These wines, internationally known as Canary Sack or Malmsey, enjoyed great prestige and were widely cited in European literature of the time. This golden age positioned the Canaries as one of the major wine centers of Atlantic trade, in direct dialogue with other Mediterranean regions producing sweet and fortified wines.

A vast range of indigenous grapes are grown for wine, and international varieties are largely absent. Listan Blanco (Palomino), Malvasia, Marmajuelo, Listan Negro and Tintilla are some of the authorized grapes. The local varieties are suited to the sub-tropical climate and achieve high must weight, a reason the trend has been to produce sweet wines, including fortified ones aged oxidatively.

A key feature distinguishing Canary vineyards is that the islands were never affected by phylloxera in the 19th century, allowing the preservation of pre-phylloxera varieties and traditional cultivation systems that disappeared in much of continental Europe.

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, a new generation of wine growers revived these varieties and historical practices, leading to a renewal of the Canary wine industry. Today, Canary wines are valued for their strong identity, marked volcanic minerality, and their ability to express a unique terroir that resonates with both Mediterranean heritage and Atlantic influence.

Appellations: The Canaries’ largest island, Tenerife, houses half of the region’s DOs: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora. The remaining designations cover the islands (in their entirety) of El Hierro, Gran Canaria, La Gomera, La Palma and Lanzarote. Each area has a unique microclimate and soil composition, lending to distinctive wines with signature mineral notes.

Etna DOC, Sicily: “The Burgundy Of The Mediterranean”

Sicily as a whole enjoys ample sunshine and lots of heat. However, Mt. Etna’s high elevation also provides greater rainfall, moderating breezes and cooler temperatures. Etna’s unique nature means soils, microclimates and exposures change dramatically from site to site, creating a panorama of characteristics and possibilities in the vineyards. Etna DOC is a stunning wine appellation that covers the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. The appellation is famous for its unique volcanic terroir and distinctive wines. More details about wines from Sicily, and Etna DOC in particular can be found in our blog post from February, 2024 (https://clubvino1.com/2024/02/22/tasting-no-262-february-27-2024-wines-from-sicily/).

Priorat DOP, Spain: “Some of Spain’s most powerful red wines come from this small, geographically inhospitable wine region”

The Priorat wine DOP is located in the Catalonia region, just inland from the Mediterranean port city of Tarragona. The Montsant mountain chain dominates the region, with vineyards situated between 330 feet above sea level in the valleys of Bellmunt del Priorat and el Molar up to 2,500 feet above sea level on the slopes of La Morera de Montsant and Porrera. Many vineyards are located on costers (Catalan for “steep slope”), so terracing is common, and vineyards are often too steep and narrow for machine-harvesting. The slate soil on the slopes is known as llicorella due to its dark color and is the main feature of the soil’s terroir and the success of its native grapes: Ganarcha and Cariñena.

For more information, see our blog post from May, 2022 (https://clubvino1.com/2022/05/20/tasting-241-may-31-2022-1230pm-priorat-and-penedes-catalonia-wine-region/ ).

  1. Climate and Terroir

          Etna Bianco and the Canary Islands: volcanoes, altitude, and salinity

Both Etna Bianco and Migan come from volcanic soils.

– In the Etna DOC area, vineyards sit between 600 and 900 m on slopes of ash, pumice, and volcanic sands. This produces tense, saline wines with marked acidity.

– In the Canary Islands, especially in the Valle de la Orotava DO, volcanic soils mix ash, lapilli, and basalt, giving light, aromatic wines with a characteristic smoky minerality.

Both regions share volcanic origin, vibrant acidity, saline or smoky minerality, and climates moderated by the sea (the Mediterranean in Sicily, and the Atlantic in the Canaries).

Priorat: slate, Mediterranean heat, and concentration

Priorat contrasts with Sicily and the Canary Islands in almost every way:

– Llicorella soil (black slate and quartz), which contributes graphite notes and a dry, mineral texture.

– A continental‑influenced Mediterranean climate, warmer and drier, producing dense, ripe, structured wines.

– Old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha, which yield deep and powerful wines.

  1. The Grapes

Carricante and Catarratto

Carricante is native grape grown only on the volcanic slopes of Mt Etna and must make up at least 60% of Etna Bianco wines. It is the backbone of the Etna Bianco DOC wines, providing high acidity, tension, and longevity. Catarratto (20–25%) is added to the blend, to add body and herbal notes. Other native grapes are used in smaller amounts: Grecanico (5–10%), which contributes freshness and citrus aromas; and Minnella (5%) that gives softness and white fruit. All are native varieties are deeply tied to Etna’s terroir.

Listán Negro

An indigenous variety from the Canary Islands, it is widespread in Tenerife and La Palma. The grape produces light, aromatic wines with red fruit, pepper, and a distinctive volcanic character. It is the perfect grape to express Atlantic freshness and smoky minerality.

Garnacha (Grenache)

A classic Mediterranean grape, originally from Aragón and widely spread in Spain, France (as Grenache), and the southern Rhône. It produces wines with ripe red fruit, high alcohol, and silky texture. In Priorat it is key for bringing sweet fruit, breadth, and warmth.

Cariñena (Carignan)

Originally from Aragón, now common in Catalonia and southern France. A grape with high acidity, firm tannin, and deep color. In Priorat—especially in Porrera—old‑vine Cariñena provides structure, tension, and dark minerality.

International grapes

One of the red wines from Priorat in this tasting is a blend using international grapes in addition to the native varieties, such as: Merlot (28%), to soffen the tannins, and add roundness and plum notes; Syrah (12%), which adds spice, color, and a floral touch; and Cabernet Sauvignon (12%)  brings structure, firm tannin, and cassis notes. Together, these varieties make Embruix more approachable, rounded, and aromatic than Porrera.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Tenuta delle Terre Nere – Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, 2024

– Producer: Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of Etna’s benchmarks, a pioneer in parcel‑based vinification and in showcasing the purity of volcanic terroir. Terre Nere’s vineyards encompass 55 hectares (135 acres) in four different subregions across the island. Altitude here ranges from 1960 to 3280 feet (600 to1000m) above sea level, creating steep slopes within an undulating landscape. The steepest gradients are closely terraced and require manual farming practices. Many vines are approaching 100 years old with a handful of plots over 130 years having been planted prior to the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th Century.

– The wine: Its style: tense, mineral, saline white with vibrant acidity. Nose-floral, reminiscent of linden blooms; Palate: fresh and salty, mineral essence.

Critics’ notes: (a) Vinous: bouquet of flowers, ginger, and green apple; stimulating acidity and long finish; (b) Wine Advocate: transparent expression of the volcano, with flint, melon, and white peach.

Suggested pairings: white fish, seafood, lemon risotto.

Wine #2. Envínate ‘Migan’ Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands, 2022

– Producer: Bodega Envínate is one of Spain’s most influential projects, focused on minimal‑intervention wines with strong terroir identity. In the Canaries, Envínate is a highly regarded winery situated in the Tenerife Island, known for its terroir-driven, low-intervention wines made from ancient, indigenous grape varieties.  The project, founded in 2008 by four enology graduates—Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez—focuses on expressing the unique volcanic landscapes of the Canary Islands, particularly in the Valle de la Orotava, where the Migan Tinto is produced, and the Taganana region.

– The wine: The style is light, aromatic red with fine tannin and volcanic minerality.

Critics’ notes: (a) Wine Advocate: very volcanic, with notes of pumice stone, pepper, and fresh red fruit; (b) Vivino (user profile): smoke, minerals, cherry, and spices.

Suggested pairings: roast chicken, fatty fish, soft cheeses.

 

Wine #3. Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022[1]

– Producer: Founded by Lluís Llach, Celler Vall Llach is one of the emblematic names of modern Priorat, and specialist in old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha in Porrera. Their “trossos” (plots of land) are centenary farms, with vineyards between 90 and 110 years old of Carignan and Grenache. Their slopes are impressive and don’t allow mechanized work. They ensure we have an exclusive must for our selections. These vineyards are supplemented with others, chosen for their quality among the oldest and most famous in the villages of Porrera and Torroja, all cultivated by farmers who work on a regular basis with the winery. In addition, to further ensure the complexity of our wines, the winery planted a series of vineyards with grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier.

– The Wine: The Style: Balanced, approachable Mediterranean red with ripe fruit and minerality.

Critics’ notes: (a) Wine Advocate: ripe fruit, sweet spices, fine tannins, velvety palate; (b) Vinous: red fruit, reactive tannins, intense but accessible character.

Suggested pairings: white meats, pasta with ragù, semi‑cured cheeses. 

[1] DOCa is the Spanish (Castillian) version of the title DOQ which is the official title in Catalan and the most commonly seen in the labels. Priorat was elevated to this status by the Catalan government in 2000. DOQ stands for Denominació d’Origen Qualificada. DOP, on the other hand, is the acronym for the Catalan Denominació d’Origen Protegida. Priorat is, together with La Rioja the two regions in Spain with the DOQa classification, the highest level for a wine region.

 

Wine #4. Vall Llach, ‘Porrera Vi de Vila’, Priorat DOCa, 2022

– The Wine: from the same producer, its Style: Deep, powerful, mineral red with firm tannin.

Critics’ notes: (a) Vinous: cherry and balsamic aromas, reactive tannins, intense wine; (b) Wine.com (description): black fruit, graphite, chocolate, and a very long finish.

Suggested pairings: lamb, red meats, aged cheeses.

 

Table A. Technical Sheet and Tasting Order

Table B. Structural and Sensory Comparison

6.  Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 17 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Vall Llach – Porrera Vi de Vila, Priorat DOCa, Spain, 2022was the Best wine, while Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022  was the Best Buy. 

.o0o.

The value we give to everything (people included)

Before you have it    When you have it   After you loose it

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Tasting No 285 – January 29, 2026 Champagne

Posted on January 24, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 285 – January 29, 2026  Tasting Champagne: Non-Vintage Brut and Rosé

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 Tasting date changed to January 29 due Snow Storm, please reconfirm your participation

Scroll to the bottom of this post for a MS Power Point presentation of this content.

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to compare and contrast Non-vintage (NV) Brut and Rosé versions of Champagne wines produced by two famous estates: Veuve Clicquot and Moët & Chandon. Specifically, to compare two NV Brut, compare two Rosé and compare the NV with the Rosé of each House. Also, Participants may discuss aspects of champagne-making, such as terroir, the méthode champegnoise, types of champagne, the service, among others.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Ricardo Santiago

Participants: R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; N. and R Gochicoa; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; P. Meduña; A. and C. Perazza; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E.
Silva; L. Uechi; and S. Santiago (guest).

These are the wines:

  1. Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label NV, Brut, Champagne
  2. Moët & Chandon, Impérial NV, Brut, Champagne
  3. Veuve Clicquot, Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne
  4. Moët & Chandon, Impérial Rosé NV, Brut Champagne.

 The Menu

  • Lobster bisque
  • Grilled cod with spinach and lemon
  • Grilled lamb with vegetables
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

 

  1. Types, Main Grapes and Tasting Champagne
  2. The Producers
  • Winegrowers: more than 16,200 who, together, own 90% of the vineyards.
  • Cooperatives: first cooperative was set up in 1921.
  • Champagne Houses: historically been at the origin of the reputation and prestige of Champagne’s wines. Houses make and sell two-thirds of the Champagne under different brands.
    • Professional Categories:
      • NM: Négociant Manipulant (Merchant Producer)
      • RM: Récoltant Manipulant (Grower Producer)
      • RC: Récoltant Coopérateur (Cooperative members with own label)
      • CM: Coopérative de Manipulation (Cooperative Producer)
      • ND: Négociant Distributeur (Merchant distributor)
      • MA: Marque d’Acheteur (Private label/store brands)
  1. Types of Champagne
  • Non-Vintage Brut
  • Blanc de Blancs
  • Blanc de Noirs
  • Vintage Champagne
  • Rosé Champagne
  • Champagne from specific localities or plots
  1. The Three Main Grapes in Champagne
  • Pinot Noir
    • Brings body
    • Aromas of red fruit and flowers (rose, violet)
    • Gives wines structure
  • Chardonnay
    • Delicacy
    • Aromas of white flowers and citrus fruit
    • Freshness
  • Meunier
    • Supple and fruity
    • Aromas of yellow fruit
  1. Tasting Champagne
  • Champagne is tasted in the same way as any other wine, with one difference: the opening of the bottle and the bubbles add a sound component. In this way, Champagne can be said to stimulate all the senses.
  • Appearance:
    • Color
    • Intensity
  • Nose
    • Intensity
    • Aromas of youth/Primary
    • Aromas of Maturity/Secondary
    • Aromas of Fullness/Tertiary
  • Taste
    • Effervescence
    • Sweetness
    • Liveness
    • Body
    • Flavors
    • Finish
  • Conclusion
    • Complexity
    • Recommendation
    • Food Pairing.

 

  1. The Champagne Houses

“A Champagne House is an agricultural and/or industrial and commercial business that commands the human and natural resources required to produce Champagne for distribution worldwide.”

The Champagne Houses are the cornerstone of the success of Champagne wines, building an international reputation that has given Champagne legendary status. They have cuvées that perpetuate the characteristic style of each brand.

Veuve Clicquot

  • Founded in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot.
  • The widow Barbe Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, born in 1777, assumed in 1805 the head of the company founded by her father-in-law.
  • She is responsible for many firsts in Champagne: the first known vintage champagne (The Comet Vintage 1811), the invention of the riddling table; and the first known blended rosé.
  • Motto of the House: “Only one quality, the finest”.
  • A lineage of just 11 Cellar Master ensuring the quality of the style: strength and complexity.
  • Only the juice from the cuvée (the first and most noble pressing) is used.
  • Has the largest and most varied collection of reserve wines (400 wines, aged up to 30 years).

Moët & Chandon

  • Founded in 1743, in the heart of champagne country with the most extensive estates in the region.
  • The House has 1,300 hectares (3,212 acres) of rich chalk soil, 50% are Grands Crus and 25% are Premiers Crus.
  • The grapes come from vineyards in all the five main areas of Champagne, from 280 of the 323 crus in the region.
  • This wide-ranging diversity of fruits and vineyards ensures the optimum selection of grapes, maintaining the constancy and originality of Moëtchampagnes.

 

  1. The Wines

       Wine #1.  Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label NV, Brut, Champagne

  • The House’s signature champagne.
  • Veuve Clicquot style: freshness, strength, aromatic richness and silkiness.
  • Predominance of Pinot Noir (50%) provides the structure that is so typically Veuve Clicquot. A touch of Meunier (20%) rounds out the blend and Chardonnay (30%) adds the elegance and finesse essential in a perfectly balanced wine.
  • The blend can be created with up to 45% reserve wines.
  • Yellow Label Brut is structured by Pinot Noir, the true backbone of the wine.
  • Yellow Label Brut cuvée reveals an aromatic profile dominated by notes of white and yellow fruits like pear, apple, and peach. Hints of citrus fruits like mandarin and grapefruit blend harmoniously with gourmand aromas of brioche.
  • Dosage: Brut 9 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

       Wine #2.   Moët & Chandon, Impérial NV, Brut, Champagne

  • Moët Impérial is the House’s iconic champagne. Created in 1869, it embodies Moët & Chandon’s unique style, distinguished by its bright fruitiness, seductive palate and its elegant maturity.
  • Created from more than 100 different wines, of which 20 to 30% are reserve wines specially selected to enhance its maturity, complexity and constancy, the assemblage reflects the diversity and complementarity of the three grapes varietals.
  • The body of Pinot Noir (30 to 40%), the suppleness of Meunier (30 to 40%) and the finesse of Chardonnay (20 to 30%).
  • A sparkling bouquet: the vibrant intensity of green apple and citrus fruit, the freshness of mineral nuances and white flowers, and the elegance of blond  notes (brioche, cereal, fresh nuts).
  • Dosage: Brut 7 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

       Wine #3.  Veuve Clicquot, Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne

  • Veuve Clicquot Rosé is the result of a blending of grapes from 50 to 60 different crus and is composed of up to 45% reserve wines. The cuvée is based on the traditional Yellow Label blend and completed with Pinot Noir red wine.
  • The Brut Rosé offers a rich aromatic profile, combining red and black fruits (cherry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry), spices (white pepper, saffron, licorice), pastries (biscuit, croissant), all enhanced by accents of toast, orange peel, and gingerbread linked to aging on lees.
  • The blend is structured by Pinot Noir, the true backbone of the wine. The addition of 12% red wine from Bouzy brings depth and power on the palate. A harmonious balance of freshness and structure with aromas of red fruits, biscuit, pastry, and a long, elegant finish.
  • Dosage: Brut 9 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

 

 

       Wine #4.  Moët & CVhandon, Impérial Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne

  • Brut Impérial Rosé embodies the vibrant essence of champagne rosé at its finest. This radiant expression of Moët & Chandon style captivates with bright red fruit notes and seductive amber highlights.
  • Every bottle of Champagne Brut Impérial Rosé embodies our savoir-faire, where three noble grape varieties unite in perfect harmony. This artful assemblage creates the signature radiance and romantic expression that defines our Brut Rosé.
  • Each cépage contributes its distinct character, carefully balanced by our cellar masters: the intensity of Pinot Noir (40 to 50%), the roundness of Meunier (30 to 40%), and the elegance of Chardonnay (10 to 20%).
  • Dosage: Brut 7 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)


The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 16 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional.

The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, three of the wines were rated very
closely; nominally, Moët & Chandon, Impérial Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne was the Best wine, while Moët & Chandon, Impérial NV, Brut, Champagne was the Best Buy.

Notes and References

 

 

.o0o.

Laughing matter:

Carolina Garcia tasting some good wine

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Tasting No 284 – December 16, 2025 Favorites of 2025

Posted on December 15, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Club del Vino, Washington DC

Tasting No 284 – December 16, 2025

Favorite Wines of 2025:  A Global Tour de Force

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

What a way to close out 2025! Our last tasting of the year introduces four wines that, in very different ways, punched well above their weight and reminded us why we do this every month. From granite-kissed Swartland bush vines; to a non-vintage, multi-regional Italian red sold in supermarkets; to one of the most compelling Hermitage Syrah produced in the Rhone Valley, and to grapes frozen on the vine under the Canadian winter sky; we will taste ambition, value, tradition, and sheer hedonism. Here’s the recap of the standouts that earned their place on our “Favorites of 2025” list.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Ruth Connolly, Ginger Smart, and Michelle Fryer

Participants:  S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; N.  and R. Gochicoa; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; C. Perazza; J and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; G. Zincke; and E. Turina; M. Averbug and Emilio Labrada (guests) .

 

These are the wines:

  1. A. Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs Chenin Blanc’, Swartland, South Africa 2025,
  2. Grande Alberone, Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy
  3. Domaine de Remizières, Hermitage ‘Cuvée Emilie’, France, 2019
  4. Specialty Selection Vidal Ice Wine Reserve, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 2021

The Menu:  

    • Clams in saffron sauce
    • Spaghetti in marinara sauce with meatballs
    • Grilled lamb with vegetables
    • Cheese plate, coffee and tea.

The Wines

-Wine #1. A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs Chenin Blanc’, Swartland, South Africa, 2025

Ruth’s Favorite White Wine:  Some ten to fifteen years ago, perhaps in one of our Club de Vino tastings and perhaps not, I encountered a white wine from South Africa that impressed me as no other white wine I ever tasted, and whose 24-carat gold color and strong flavor has stayed with me to this day. So, when Ginger, Michelle and I discussed presenting our all-time favorite wines for today’s tasting, logic dictated that I present this wine. There was only one problem, I didn’t remember its name, its grape, or the year of its production.  After several calls to wine shops elicited statements regarding the impossibility of finding such a needle in the proverbial haystack, my neighborhood merchant volunteered to look. He was successful.

The wine I am presenting today – the 2025 vintage of a South African Chenin Blanc entitled ‘Badenhorst Secateurs’, and in production for the last 16 years, is hopefully the valid successor of the wine I tasted years ago.

The Producer:  AA Badenhorst Family Wines is a family-owned estate in South Africa’s Swartland appellation managed by cousins Adi and Hein Badenhorst.  Adi, the lead winemaker, draws on extensive experience, including time at Rustenberg and Château Angélus in Bordeaux. His grandfather oversaw Groot Constantia for 46 years, fostering a deep respect for heritage. In 2008, Adi acquired a neglected farm in Siebritskloof on Paardeberg Mountain, restoring a 1930s cellar to produce natural wines from old, dry-farmed bush vines. The 60-hectare estate emphasizes sustainable, low-intervention practices with traditional wine-making equipment.

Geography and Terroir:  Swartland, named “black land” in Afrikaans for its dark, fertile soils that once supported wild rhinoceroses, is better known today for its winemakers. Located about an hour north of Cape Town, this region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers moderated by cool Atlantic breezes. Paardeberg Mountain’s decomposed granite soils, mixed with clay and sand, dominate the landscape. This terroir is key to the wine’s character. The granite imparts a distinct minerality and structure, while the old vines’ deep roots extract nuanced flavors from the earth. Low annual rainfall (approximately 400 mm) stresses the unirrigated old bush vines, yielding small, intensely flavored berries. The vineyards, primarily Chenin Blanc with Cinsault and Grenache, occupy north-, east-, and south-facing slopes, benefiting from varied granite types, clay, and shale subsoils. Unlike the cooler Loire Valley in France, Swartland’s warmth adds a riper, more tropical edge to Chenin Blanc, but the elevation and ocean influence keep acidity lively. It’s this balance that makes Swartland Chenin a standout—elegant yet robust, with a sense of place that’s unmistakably South African.

The Wine:  Secateurs is named after the clipping tool that is used to shape Baddenhorst’s bushvines during the winter pruning and to pick the ripe grapes in summer.  The first Secateurs Chenin Blanc bottled under the Badenhorst Family Wines range was in 2009.

The Grape:  Secateurs, named for the pruning shears used on the estate’s bush vines, debuted as a Badenhorst Family Wines Chenin Blanc in 2009. Chenin Blanc, originating in France’s Loire Valley and now South Africa’s most planted white variety, excels in dry, textured styles. Its high natural acidity ensures freshness and aging potential, while Swartland’s warmth adds ripe fruit character without sacrificing elegance. The 2025 Secateurs is 100% Chenin Blanc from old vines, delivering exceptional concentration and complexity.

Production and Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested in multiple passes for optimal ripeness, with low yields (around 4 tons per hectare). Minimal intervention defines the approach: whole-cluster pressing, native yeast fermentation in concrete tanks and large foudres (no new oak), and approximately seven months aging on lees in neutral vessels for texture and creaminess. Gentle practices—occasional stirring, no fining or heavy filtration—preserve purity and natural evolution while producing a structure that’s both structured and approachable.  The result? A Chenin that’s textured yet crisp, with a grippy mouthfeel from skin contact and lees work. The 2025 vintage reflects a dry summer that enhanced ripeness while maintaining balanced acidity and a subtle minerality.

  • Grape – 100% Chenin Blanc from old, dry-farmed bush vines
  • Vintage – 2025
  • Alcohol content – 13.5%
  • Bottle – 750ml
  • Soils – Granite-dominated
  • Region – Swartland
  • Aging – Foudres and neutral vessels; stony mineral influence

Pairings – seafood, chicken, salads, creamy sauces

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  Medium- to full-bodied and dry, this Chenin offers vibrant acidity, refreshing tannic structure, and exceptional texture from lees aging and old-vine intensity. Alcohol at 13.5% provides warmth but never overwhelms. Aromas feature honey, orange blossom, and white stone fruits (peach, pear). The palate reveals pink grapefruit, quince, persimmon, melon, honeysuckle, and stony mineral notes, with layered complexity and a grippy, concentrated mid-palate leading to a bright, tangy finish. Versatile for seafood, poultry, or spicy dishes, it evolves beautifully in the glass.

Winemaker’s Notes:   The Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2025 is a benchmark South African white, delivering complexity, texture, and vibrancy.  The flavor profile is aromatic with honey, orange blossom, peach, pear, melon, and citrus notes, balanced by minerality and a fresh finish.  Aged in foudres, it displays a distinctive stony character, precise flavors of peach, pear, and pink grapefruit, substantial palate weight, and remarkable drinkability—a compelling introduction to Cape Chenin Blanc.

Wine #2.  Grande Alberone, Quintis Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy

Ginger’s Favorite Red:  Grande Alberone Quintus is a non-vintage, multi-regional Italian red blend that delivers bold complexity and approachability at an exceptional value.  This popular Italian wine is typically a blend of various red grapes, offering dark berries, cherries, and hints of chocolate on the nose, transitioning to flavors of dark fruits, spices, and velvety texture on the palate with a long, elegant finish.  Frequently available through supermarket chains such as Aldi, it showcases Italy’s diverse winemaking heritage through harmonious integration of fruit, spice, and structure.

The Producer:  Grande Alberone wines are produced by Provinco Italia, a Trentino-based subsidiary of Italian Wine Brands, one of Italy’s largest private wine groups. Provinco specializes in high-quality, accessible wines sourced from premier regions across the country, including Veneto, Trentino, Puglia, and Sicily. The focus is on sustainable practices, often incorporating organic grapes, and blending Italy’s extensive indigenous and international varieties to create expressive, personality-driven wines for large distribution outlets. Italian Wine Brands produces 24 proprietary brands of which some 80% is for export.  Winemaker Loris Delvai, who holds a degree in biology from University of Padua, collaborates closely with growers to select optimal parcels, drawing on deep terroir knowledge to craft acclaimed blends that have earned numerous gold medals and high scores; hence proving that thoughtful curation yields extraordinary results.

Geography and Terroir:  What sets Quintus apart is its embrace of Italy’s kaleidoscopic geography and terroir-driven nuances.  As a Vino d’Italia IGT, Quintus embraces Italy’s geographic diversity, sourcing grapes from northern continental climates (cool nights and brisk winds that preserve acidity) to southern Mediterranean zones (ripe, generous fruit from volcanic and sun-drenched soils). Key regions include Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Puglia, and Sicily, though specifics remain a guarded secret.  Soils vary from clay-rich for structure, sandy coastal for elegance, mineral hills for finesse, and volcanic for smoky depth. Annual rainfall varies from 600mm in the wetter north to drought-prone 300mm south, stressing vines to yield small, flavorful berries.

The Wine:  Grande Alberone Rosso is a popular Italian wine known for its bold, complex flavor profile, offering notes of dark berries, cherries, and hints of chocolate on the nose, transitioning to flavors of dark fruits, spices, and a velvety texture on the palate, with a long, elegant finish reminiscent of Amarone.

At its core, Quintus is a bold blend of emblematic red varieties: Primitivo (Zinfandel), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teroldego—all organically sourced.  I refer to the blend as a “mongered mutt” but an extremely loveable (or in this case drinkable) one.  The areas these grapes come from are Trentino-Alto Adige, Fiuli-Venezia Giulia. Veneto, Puglia, and Sicily.  This quartet, all organic-sourced, exemplifies Italy’s grape diversity. combining Primitivo’s boldness, Merlot’s plushness, Cabernet’s structure, and Teroldego’s earthy herbal notes for a robust yet versatile wine.

Production and Vinification:  Production for Quintus prioritizes purity and precision.  Grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness, with modest yields (6-8 tons/hectare) ensuring concentration. In Profinco’s state-of-the-art facilities, they are destemmed, gently crushed, and macerated (7-10 days) at controlled temperatures to extract color, aromas, and balanced tannins. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks (24-26°C) using selected yeasts, followed by malolactic conversion for silkiness and brief lees rest for creaminess. Aging lasts 4-6 months in predominantly second-use French oak barriques, adding subtle complexity without dominating fruit. The non-vintage designation allows annual selection of the finest parcels for consistency. Bottled with light filtration. Alcohol: 14.5%.

  • Grape – Blend of Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teroldego (organic).
  • Vintage – Non vintage
  • Alcohol – 14.5% ABV
  • Bottle – 750ml
  • Pairings – Roasted meats, tomato-based pasta, aged cheeses, chocolate desserts

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  Full-bodied with deep garnet hue, Quintus is dry, structured, and elegant, featuring firm yet integrated tannins, medium-plus acidity, and persistent length. Aromas evoke vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, clove, and subtle spice. The palate offers plush blackberry, cherry confit, raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness, evolving to savory baking spices, mineral streaks, and oak-kissed vanilla. Texturally silky mid-palate with grippy finish, it unfolds over time in the decanter. Versatile for pairing, it’s food-friendly without being fussy. Approachable young but capable of developing tertiary notes through 2030. Ideal slightly chilled in summer or at room temperature with winter dishes.

Winemaker’s Notes:  Full-bodied with deep garnet hue, Quintus is dry, structured, and elegant, featuring firm yet integrated tannins, medium-plus acidity, and persistent length. Aromas evoke vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, clove, and subtle spice. The palate offers plush blackberry, cherry confit, raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness, evolving to savory baking spices, mineral streaks, and oak-kissed vanilla. Texturally silky mid-palate with grippy finish, it unfolds over time in the decanter. Approachable young but capable of developing tertiary notes through 2030. Ideal slightly chilled in summer or at room temperature with winter dishes.

Swirl to release intense ruby depths. Nose: Vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, with a whisper of clove. Palate: Full-bodied entry of blackberry and strawberry confit, mid-palate blooming with raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness. Firm tannins frame bright acidity, leading to a spicy, fruit-pure finish with lingering plum skin and vanilla. Balanced and inviting—chill slightly for summer, or room temp for winter roasts. Decant for 45 minutes.  Drink now through 2030 for peak harmony.

Wine #3.  2025 Club del Vino “Best of the Best” selection:  Domaine de Remizières, ‘Cuvée Emilie’, Hermitage, Rhone, France, 2019

Émilie and Christophe Desmeure are making some of the most compelling Hermitage produced today.  In fact, the 2019 Domaine des Remizières Hermitage Cuvée Émilie was rated the #1 of all 44 wines tasted by Club del Vino members in 2025.  This opulent Syah from the legendary Hermitage appellation offers an intense and complex experience that embodies the region’s storied prestige—bold yet refined, structured for the cellar yet whispering an invitation to sip now.

The Producer:  Domaine des Remizières, located in Tain-l’Hermitage, traces its origins to 1973 when Philippe Desmeure began selling grapes to the local cooperative.  The estate pivoted to estate-bottled wines in 1977, marking a bold step toward independence. Today, the 38-hectare estate—spanning Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Saint-Joseph—is led by Philippe’s daughter Émilie Desmeure, who oversees winemaking with a blend of tradition and intuition.  Her namesake cuvée debuted in 1995 as a tribute to her vision.  High-density plantings (over 10,000 vines/hectare) of 40-year-old bush-trained Syrah in key lieux-dits, such as Les Grandes Vignes, yield low quantities (27–40 hectoliters /ha) for concentration. With a focus on organic-leaning viticulture and hand labor on steep terraces, the Domaine’s philosophy emphasizes minimal intervention, sustainable practices, and plot-specific harvesting.  This has earned the winery Haute Valeur Environnementale (High Environmental Value) certification.

Geography and Terroir:  Hermitage, France’s most revered Syrah enclave, rises dramatically from the Rhône River’s east bank, just south of Valence. This compact 136-hectare AOC features precipitous, south-facing granite slopes (up to 30% gradient) that bask in Mediterranean sun while tempered by the fierce Mistral winds.

Terroir is Hermitage’s magic: decomposed granite soils, laced with quartz pebbles and mica schist, impart a signature minerality and firm structure—think “stony elegance” that elevates Syrah beyond a mere fruit bomb. Les Grandes Vignes, at the hill’s base, offers slightly clay-influenced granitic sand for opulent ripeness, while higher plots add tension. Low rainfall (500-600mm annually) stresses the vines, fostering deep roots and small berries bursting with phenolic intensity. This interplay—sun-drenched exposure meeting wind-whipped resilience—yields wines of profound depth, where earth and ether converge.  The 2019 vintage benefited from a warm, dry season with cool nights, delivering ripe fruit and preserved acidity.

The Wine:  Domaine des Remizières Hermitage “Cuvée Emilie” is a stunning expression of Syrah from one of the most prestigious appellations in the Northern Rhone.  This wine presents a deep profile with rich aromas of dark berries, such as blackberries and blackcurrants, alongside hints of spices, tobacco, and sutle earthy notes.  On the palate, it is full-bodied with refined tannins, virant acidity, and a remarable balance of power and finesse.  The wine’s depth is complemented by a long, elegant finish.  A perfect match for roasted meats, game, or rich savory dishes, “Cuvee Emilie” is a wine that promises both immediate enjoyment and excellent aging potential.

Brought up all in new oak, the 2019 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie reveals a dense purple color as well as cassis and blackberry fruits, notes of scorched earth, graphite, crushed stone, and burning embers, full body, ripe, building tannins, and a great finish. It needs 4-5 years to integrate its oak and should have 25+ years of overall longevity.

The Grape:  Syrah reigns supreme in Hermitage and old vines amplify complexity.  The 2019 Cuvee Emilie is comprised of  100% Syrah grapes sourced from two prestigious Hermitage lieux-dits:  Les Grandes Vignes (40-year-old vines on a granite hillside) and Les Rocoules (80+ year-old-vines on alluvial soils). Syrah thrives on granite, evolving from peppery youth to savory maturity. Émilie’s selection of fruit from prime parcels ensures vibrancy.  In 2019’s benevolent climate, the Syrah grape ripened to 14%-14.5% ABV with silky skins, delivering ripe fruit and preserved acidity.

Production and Vinification:  Production at Remizières is a labor of precision, starting in the vineyard with hand-harvesting over multiple passes to capture phenolic ripeness. Yields are rigorously controlled, with manual sorting at the winery eliminating all but the finest berries. Émilie favors reasoned sulfites and biodynamic impulses, fostering microbial diversity for authentic ferments.

Hand-harvested grapes undergo rigorous sorting and full destemming. Cold pre-fermentation maceration (5–7 days) extracts aromas gently.  Alcoholic fermentation, sparked by indigenous yeasts, lasts 10-15 days in concrete and stainless-steel vats, daily punch-downs/pump-overs (28–30°C), and extended post-fermentation maceration (up to 30+ days). Malolactic fermentation softens acidity. This hands-on approach, rooted in the domaine’s 50-year evolution, yields wines of power and poise.

Aging occurs 15–18 months in 80–100% new French oak barriques, with lees stirring for creaminess. Minimal fining and filtration preserve authenticity.

  • Grape – 100% Syrah
  • Vintage – 2019
  • Appellation – Hermitage AOC, Northern Rhône
  • Aging – Aged 15-18 months in 80% new, French oak barrels
  • Alcohol – 14.5%

Aging potential – Cellar 4–5 years for integration; enjoy through 2040+

Pairing – red meats (grilled steaks), game, lamb, charcuterie, mushroom risotto.

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  This 2019 Cuvée Émilie is a full-bodied powerhouse cloaked in dense purple hues that hint at its depth. Aromas of cassis, blackberry, scorched earth, graphite, licorice, toasted clove, and subtle oak. The palate layers black fruits with smoky, mineral, and floral elements (mint, mesquite), evolving to olive and leather notes. Long, graphite-edged finish. Ripe, building tannins provide architecture without austerity—supple now, yet promising evolution. Medium-high acidity cuts through richness, ensuring freshness amid concentration. Texturally, it’s broad-shouldered with a velvety mid-palate, finishing with graphite-edged persistence (45+ seconds). Decant young bottles 2–4 hours; serve at 15–16°C.  Cellar 5-7 years for silkier tannins; peak drinking through 2040.

Winemaker’s Notes: Full-bodied wine with a lot of sweetness, good acidity, and some pleasant bitterness. Color is Steady.  Tannins are described as supple and soft tannic. On the nose, red fruits aromas when it is young, spices aromas after a few years. The wine is described as having an inky, licorice scent. On the palate, this Syrah offers flavors of boysenberry, black fig, and black currant, with hints of mesquite, vanilla, and clove. The wine also has a smoky, earthy undertone. It is expected to improve with cellaring.

Domaine des Remizières Hermitage when young, should be decanted at least 2-4 hours, give or take, allowing the wines to soften and open their perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment.  Domaine des Remizières is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift.

 

-Wine #4. Ginger’s pick:  Specialty Selection Ice-wine Vidal Reserve, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 2021

This Ice-wine is produced from grapes naturally frozen on the vine in cold climates, concentrating sugars and resulting in an intensely sweet dessert wine. Sourced from the Niagara region in Ontario, Canada, this reserve offering exhibits high viscosity, a deep golden hue, and prominent fruity notes of peach, lemon, and toffee. Served chilled, it delivers a balanced profile where pronounced sweetness is offset by vibrant acidity.

The Producer:  Specialty Selection is a curated collection from Andrew Peller Ltd., one of Canada’s largest and most respected wine producers. With flagship operations in the Niagara Peninsula, the company upholds rigorous VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) standards.  Their portfolio includes icons like Peller Estates and Wayne Gretzky Estates, but the Specialty Selection line spotlights premium, limited-production wines like this Vidal Reserve—sourced from select partner vineyards to showcase peak quality.

The grapes for this Ice-wine hail from mature Vidal vines in Niagara-on-the-Lake, planted in the 1980s and beyond, where low yields (often 1-2 tons per acre) ensure intensity. These “reserve” berries are rigorously selected: only the healthiest clusters, enduring multiple freeze-thaw cycles, make the cut. Peller’s winemakers, led by experts like Dr. Wendy Ing from the Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Institute, emphasize sustainable practices such as herbicide-free cultivation, cover cropping, and nocturnal hand-harvesting.

Geography and Terroir:  Nestled on the southern shores of Lake Ontario, the Niagara Peninsula spans 150 km of rolling vineyards, with the sub-appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake being Icewine central. This VQA zone, just minutes from the thundering falls, boasts a continental climate moderated by the lake’s thermal mass: balmy summers (up to 30°C) ripen grapes slowly, while brutal winters plunge to -10°C or lower, ideal for natural freeze. The Escarpment—a limestone ridge—shields vines from harsh northwest winds, creating micro-pockets of “lake effect” warmth that delay dormancy and concentrate flavors.

Terroir here is a glacial gift: clay-loam soils over ancient limestone bedrock retain moisture in summer and drain well in winter, imparting minerality and structure. Sandy subsoils add finesse, while the lake’s humidity fosters noble rot-like dehydration without Botrytis risk. Annual rainfall (800-900mm) and diurnal swings (15-20°C day-night) build acidity, essential for balancing Icewine’s sugars. In challenging years like 2024’s variable frost, only the hardiest sites produce.

The Wine:  Ice-wine Vidal has a beautiful pale gold color with high viscosity (10.5% ABV, but plenty of RS).  The nose has intense aromas of honey, apricot, orange peel, candied/sugared citrus rings, white blossom and yellow apple.  The palate is sweet with high acidity and a full body.  Rich flavors of honey, apricot, orange zest and a tropical note like candied pineapple combine for a medium-length finish that is silky smooth.

The Grape:  Vidal Blanc, a resilient French hybrid, bred in the 1930s for Cognac, found its calling in Canada’s cold climate after arriving in the 1940s. Thick-skinned and resilient, it withstands -25°C freezes without splitting, It accounts for the majority (80%) of Ontario’s icewine production, achieving high sugar levels (35–40° Brix) while retaining sharp acidity.

Production and Vinification:  Ice-wine production is extreme oenology.  Grapes remain on the vine until temperatures drop consistently to –8°C to –12°C, typically in December or January. Harvest occurs at night, followed by immediate whole-cluster pressing to yield minimal (1 glass/vine), highly concentrated juice, yielding just 5-10% juice. Fermentation in stainless steel is slow and cool, stopping naturally to retain substantial residual sugar (approximately 220 g/L).  Bottled in spring, it’s unfiltered to preserve aromatics—a testament to Peller’s cool-climate mastery.

  • Grape – 100% Vidal
  • Vintage – 2021
  • Region – Lake Ontario, Niagara region
  • Appellation: VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) – Niagara -on-the-Lake
  • Alcohol – 10.5%
  • Aging Potential: Drink now through 2035; develops honeyed complexity with time

Pairings: Blue cheese, fruit tarts, almond cake, dark chocolate, or spicy dishes

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  This golden-hued Reserve is viscous yet lively: full-bodied with 10.5% ABV, it coats the palate like liquid silk, balanced by piercing acidity that prevents cloying. The profile is a tropical reverie: ripe stone fruits lead, laced with floral honeysuckle and citrus zest. Aromas evoke peach jam, mango, and candied orange peel, with undertones of nutmeg and wet stone.  Texturally, it’s ideal for sipping chilled (8-10°C) in small glasses. Versatile: elevates blue cheese, sorbets, or spicy Asian fare. Cellar 5-10 years for honeyed tertiary notes; sustainable viticulture adds ethical allure.

Chill and swirl the deep amber elixir. Nose: Explosive honeyed peach, ripe pineapple, orange blossom, with flinty minerality. Palate: Lush entry of mango and apricot confit, mid-palate blooming with tangerine, butterscotch, and subtle spice; vibrant acidity slices through, finishing with lingering grapefruit pith and candied ginger. Harmonious and hedonistic—pour sparingly for dessert. The sweet wine is sold in a skinny, half-size bottle (375 mL rather than the standard 750 mL), and typically served in portions of 1.5-2 ounces. Drink now through 2035.

6. CV Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 15 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional.

The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table.

In the final results, Domaine de Remizières, Hermitage ‘Cuvée Emilie’, France, 2019 was the Best wine, while Grande Alberone, Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy was the Best Buy.

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Tasting 283 November 18, 2025 Pinot Noir

Posted on December 2, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting 283 November 18, 2025  Pinot Noir

         Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this blind tasting is to compare and contrast Pinot Noir wines produced in different regions of the world. The presentersm have chosen wines that are distinctive, from the same vintage, in the same price range. The wines were served in a random order all at the same time. At the end, all participants ranked the wines before revealing them and their prices. The wines  are from the following regions: Argentina (Uco Valley), Chile (Limari Valley), New Zealand (Malborough) and USA (Virginia).

Type of tasting: Blind

Presenters: Erico Silva and Ricardo Santiago

Participants: S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; C. and A. Perazza; J. and Redwood; J. Requena; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Vega; and Marilda Averbug (guest). 

These are the wines:

  1. Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022
  2. Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, Valle de Uco, Mendoza,  2022
  3. Ankida Ridge, Pinot Noir, Virginia, 2022
  4. Concha y Toro, Amelia, Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari,  2022
  1. Menu
  • Calamari fritti with mild fra-diavolo sauce
  • Ravioli de Vitello in aurora sauce
  • Salmone alla griglia con funghi
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

  1. Brief History of Pinot Noir Around the World

Yacsire Cutler and Orlando Mason presented an excellent brief history of Pinot Noir for their Tasting No 277 presentation, which we are including here for context and reference:

“Pinot Noir is one of the oldest and most celebrated grape varieties in the world, known for producing elegant, complex red wines. It is believed to be over 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest known grape varieties still in use. It likely originated in northeastern France, possibly around Burgundy, and there are records of being cultivated during the first century A.D.  The name “Pinot” comes from the French word “pin” (pine), referencing the grape’s tightly clustered, pinecone-shaped bunches. “Noir” means black, referring to the color of the grape.

The Burgundy region of France is therefore considered the birthplace of Pinot Noir. Monks in the Middle Ages, were crucial in refining the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy, identifying the best vineyard sites. Burgundy’s deep association with the concept of terroir—how soil, climate, and vineyard location affect the wine—was largely shaped by Pinot Noir cultivation.

Pinot Noir has been know as known to be a “temperamental” grape. It prefers cool to moderate climates, heat can mute its finesse and freshness. It is difficult to cultivate and vinify consistently due to its delicacy and susceptibility to mutation and rot. Because of its thin skin it doesn’t stand up as well to high heat, too much sun, hail or too much rain as hardier, thicker-skinned grapes; in addition, the grapes in the clusters are close together, making them more prone to mildew and rot in very damp conditions. Its prone to millerandage (uneven grape development).  Pinot noir is highly reflective of the soil and climate where it is grown (especially in Burgundy).

Pinot Noir primary flavors are red fruit – cherry, strawberry, raspberry. It often shows earthy, floral, and herbal tones—such as mushroom, rose petal, forest floor, tea leaves, clove and cinnamon.  Younger Pinot is bright and juicy.  Aged Pinot Noir: Can develop complex flavors like dried fruit, leather, game, and truffle.

Pinot Noir wines are generally light to medium bodied, low to medium tannins with a silky or soft texture, and naturally high acidity which helps it age and pair well with food. Alcohol content is typically moderate (12-14.5%.) Its color is pale to medium ruby or garnet. It is one of the lightest red wines in appearance.

In the 19th–20th centuries Pinot Noir began spreading to other parts of the world. Globally, Pinot Noir is one of the major red grape varieties, but it ranks behind more widely planted and robust varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In total plantation, Pinot Noir is about 1/3 of Cabernet Sauvignon and less than Merlot, Tempranillo and Shiraz.”

The top dozen Pinot Noir producing countries by area, in 2023 are: France; USA; Germany; Italy; Australia; New Zealand; Chile; Switzerland; Romania; Argentina; Moldova; and South Africa.

  1. The Countries for this Tasting

We have selected wines from three small producing countries New Zealand, Argentina, and Chile, and the United States. In the case of the United States, we selected a wine from Virginia, an exceedingly small producer of Pinot Noir.

NEW ZEALAND – The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is relatively young, but it’s a story of rapid rise and global acclaim. In just a few decades, New Zealand has established itself as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the Southern Hemisphere, known for purity, elegance, and vibrant fruit.  The earliest vine plantings in New Zealand go back to the 1800s, brought by European settlers, but it didn’t catch on due to lack of wine infrastructure, limited viticultural knowledge, and inappropriate vineyard sites. It is only in the 1970s, that the modern New Zealand wine industry began to take shape, particularly in regions like Martinborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago, where the first producer recognized that the cool, dry climate and free-draining soils mirrored conditions in Burgundy The current trends are: greater focus on single-vineyard bottlings and sustainable practices; use of native yeasts, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal intervention; and increasing comparisons to Burgundy, especially from Martinborough and Central Otago.

New Zealand Pinot Noirs are noted for bright cherry and berry fruit, silky tannins, balanced acidity and transparency of terroir. In particular Central Otago, with its high-altitude vineyards, continental climate, and dramatic temperature swings, is considered ideal for Pinot Noir wines that are characterized as bold, structured and fruit forward.

ARGENTINA – Pinot Noir in Argentina is a niche production, with about 2,000 hectares of cultivation. Making great Pinot Noir is often seen as the holy grail of winemaking, a quest that Argentine Producers have been chasing for decades. The earliest Pinot Noir success in Argentina was actually as sparkling wine and many of the Pinot Noir clones available in Argentina are Champagne clones used for sparkling wine rather than still reds. Since the 2000’s producers have changed their genetic selection and red Pinot Noir wines have improved greatly. The best Pinot Noir comes from the cooler regions of high altitude Uco Valley (notably Galtallary) and low altitude Rio Negro [Barnes, 2022].

UNITED STATES – Pinot Noir was first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th century, primarily by European immigrants bringing vine cuttings with them. Initial plantings were scattered and experimental, and the grape didn’t gain immediate traction due to its sensitivity to climate and soil.  In the early 20th century, California saw some of the earliest serious attempts at cultivating Pinot Noir, particularly in areas like the Santa Cruz Mountains and later in Sonoma and Napa. However, it wasn’t until after Prohibition that efforts really picked up again. A major turning point came in the 1960’s when planting Pinot Noir began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  By the 1980’s and 1990’s, both Oregon and cooler parts of California were producing world-class Pinot Noir. The grape became known for its elegance, complexity, and expression of terroir. American Pinot Noirs gained further credibility on the world stage after Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve placed well in international tastings. Pinot Noir is now one of the most prestigious and sought-after varietals in the U.S. Willamette Valley is widely considered one of the top Pinot-producing regions in the world, and California continues to innovate with diverse styles ranging from bold to delicate.  Stylistically, these wines range from types similar to Burgundy’s (leaner, with firmer tannins and earth and mineral accents) to plusher and riper versions with rich dark fruit and spice notes, and styles in between.

Specifically Carneros covers an area of 90 square miles on the southernmost foothills of the Mayacamas and Sonoma mountain ranges. This location sits between America’s two most famous wine-producing regions – the eastern half in Napa, the western half in Sonoma. In the 1880’s the Stanly Ranch in Carneros, with over 300 acres, was one of the largest vineyards in California and had significant Pinot Noir plantings..  The topography here – and the cool, windy mesoclimate it creates – is intimately connected with the style of wine produced here. This gives Carneros a much cooler, wetter climate than that found further north in the sheltered valleys. Carneros Pinot Noir has traditionally been lighter and tighter than those from other Californian regions, with notes of berries and herbs, rather than anything deeper and more opulent.

CHILE –  Pinot Noir likely arrived in Chile in the 19th century, brought by European settlers. However, it was not widely planted or seriously cultivated mainly because Chile’s central wine regions were too warm for Pinot to thrive. In the 1990s, Chilean winemakers began exploring coastal regions, realizing the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and Humboldt Current could support delicate grapes like Pinot Noir. Regions like Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley (especially Leyda), Limarí Valley, Bio-Bío and Itata in the south began to produce higher-quality, cooler-climate Pinot Noir.  Winemakers started to use better clones of Pinot Noir (especially Dijon clones from Burgundy); implement lower yields and more precise vineyard management; and experiment with oak aging, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention techniques.

The Leyda Valley region enjoys the effects of the cold Humboldt Current of the Pacific Ocean. The first vignerons appeared in Leyda in the late 1990s, attracted by a terroir that was almost perfect for the production of premium grapes, save for the lack of an abundant source of water for irrigation. A significant investment by a wine-producing family in the area saw the construction of a pipeline five miles (8km) long to channel water from the Maipo River in the south.The close proximity to the coast is what is driving growers to Leyda. Cold ocean breezes and morning fog moderate the overall temperatures, and the valley is therefore significantly cooler than its low latitude might suggest. These cool temperatures are complemented by warm sunshine during the long growing season, letting grapes ripen fully and develop complexity while still retaining acidity.  Leyda Valley’s soils are largely clay and loam over a granite base with moderate drainage. These low-fertility soils are good for the production of premium grapes because they make the vines struggle for survival. This results in vines that put all their energy into producing small, concentrated grapes rather than leafy foliage. Wines produced from these grapes tend to be structured and complex and Leyda Pinot Noir wines style is bright red fruit, floral, and elegant.

  1. The Wines

Wine #1. Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022, New Zealand

Marlborough Pinot Noir is produced in areas such as the Wairau and Southern Valleys, which feature varied soils and a climate that is both cool and sunny. The cool but high-sunshine climate with cool nights is ideal for Pinot Noir’s complex flavor development. Soils vary by subregion, including gravelly riverbed soils in the Wairau Valley, and heavy clay soils in the Southern Valleys, which contribute to different wine styles.

The Producer:  Cloudy Bay is a New Zealand winery founded in 1985, famous for putting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the world map. Located in the Wairau Valley, the winery has a diverse portfolio that now includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pelorus sparkling wines, and is a part of the LVMH group.

The wine –  Vineyard & winemaking: this wine comes from the cool clay soils and rolling north facing slopes of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys region. The aged alluvial gravels and dense clay subsoils balance drainage and water availability to yield the region’s best Pinot Noir grapes. The key vineyards for this variety are Mustang, Delta and Barracks.

The fruits are sorted using an optical sorter before being gravity fed into open topped tanks. The skins were gently plunged with an average of 21 days of skin contact, followed by malolactic fermentation. Maturation in French oak for 11 months, of which 30% were new.

Technical data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 13.5%.

Producer’s Tasting Notes: Open and expressive on the nose, with notes of wild hedgerow fruits, crushed rose petals and sun-warmed red cherry. The palate is finely tuned, with silky tannins and a pure dart of acidity framing and balancing out a core of summer berries, soft spices and a touch of biscuity vanilla. Long on the finish, this wine evokes warm summer evenings, strawberries nestled under shaded leaves and the lingering scent of barbecue smoke.

Wine #2 Argentina – Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, Valle de Uco, 2022,  Mendoza, Argentina

Jairo Sanchez and Jorge Requena provided an excellent overview of the Uco Valley region for Tasting No 254  – Valle del Uco, which you can find below.

Valle de Uco is located 88 km to the south of the City of Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes, the Uco Valley spans the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The wines from there are often labelled with one of these three place names.

Whereas in 2005 the valley had 16,800ha under vine, today it contains 28,600ha, representing 19% of all the vineyards in Mendoza. Almost one in five bottles produced in Mendoza, comes from the valley.

Because the region is so large, in recent years producers have been carrying out detailed analysis to identify smaller Geographic Indications (GIs). Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes and San Pablo are some of the most famous, together with Gualtallary, and all contain vineyards set at altitudes of between 900m and 1,500m. Irrigation water comes from the glaciers above, mainly channelled by the Tunuyán and Las Tunas rivers.

The climate is continental: dry with plenty of sun, low rainfall, cold winters and warm summers with a large thermal range. The point of difference is the altitude, which defines the temperature (on average, it drops 1°C every 150m higher up you go) and the cool climate has lured many producers away from warmer areas further down. All these different factors result in expressive, tense reds and vibrant whites.

The proximity and exposure to the Andes make for alluvial, rocky soils with widely varying mixtures of sand, limestone and clay in unique combinations that produce memorable wines. Within the 50km (30 miles) Valle de Uco region there are smaller wine regions with slightly different wine styles: Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos.

Tupungato is well-known among collectors because of an unofficial growing area called Gualtallary with calcareous soils. You’ll find fresher styles of Malbec, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc because vineyards are as high as 5,250 feet (1600 meters).

The Gualtellary subregion of Tupungato is becoming one of the most famous subregions of Argentina. Some of the most expensive and idolized wines come from Gualtellary, which is quite remarkable considering that there were barely any vines here 30 years ago.  It produces some of the best white wines in Argentina. Red wines, from Pinot Noir to Cabernet Sauvignon are also making waves and  Gualtellary is now equally as well known for its incredibly fresh and vibrant red wines. The subregion altitude varies from 1080 to 1600 m.a.s.l. However, it isn’t  just the cooler temperature that makes Gualtellary distinctive – but also the soils. Pockets of calcareous deposits which are considered the holy grail of wine terroir, have been discovered in Gualtellary [ Barnes, 2022]. 

The Producer: Domaine Nico was founded by Dr. Laura Catena (of the Catena wine producing family) to produce high-altitude Pinot Noir wines, named after her daughter Nicola. The winery is known for its single-parcel vineyards (Grand Père and Grand Mère in Villa Bastías, Histoire d’A and La Savante in Gualtallary, and Le Paradis in Gualtallary Alto)  all within the Tupungato region of the Mendoza province in Argentina.

The Wine – Vineyard & winemaking: The vineyard soils are described as follows: depths of 0-40 cm: loose, sandy, loamy soil; between depths of 40-60 cm: reddish-hued compact calcium carbonate. Between depths of 60-110 cm: 90% boulder debris 5 cm in thickness, with dispersed calcium carbonate. Vineyard located in Gualtallary, Tupungato, elevation of 1450 m.s.n.m. (4757 feet). Fermentation is in roll-fermentor and 24 hL stainless steel tanks with 50% whole cluster. Fermented at an average temperature of 22ºC  for 12 days. Aged 12 months in French oak (100% François Frères), 15% new barrels, 35% second-use and 50% third-use barrels.

Technical Data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 12.5%

Producer Tasting Notes: Red-mineral fruit, with slight reduction and a touch of citrus. Orange peel. Earthy character. High Acidity and low alcohol content. Vertical wine. Layered tannins.

Wine #3 – Ankida Ridge, Pinot Noir, Virginia, 2022, USA

Pinot Noir production in Virginia is a challenging niche, limited by the state’s warm and humid climate, which requires careful site selection and diligent vineyard management. Producers often choose high-elevation sites in the Blue Ridge or Shenandoah Valley and sometimes harvest early to make sparkling wine. Despite the difficulties, Virginia winemakers like Ankida Ridge and 12 Ridges are creating high-quality, nuanced Pinot Noirs that are gaining recognition for their acidity and structure.

The producer – Ankida Ridge is a high-elevation, family-owned micro-boutique vineyard located on the Blue Ridge Mountains in Amherst County, Virginia.  Known for its stunning mountain views and unique cool-climate microclimate that produces distinctive, high-quality wines, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is also known for its environmentally sensitive viticulture practices, such as using sheep for vineyard management.

The Wine – Vineyard & winemaking: the wine maker describes the soil of the vineyard, located in a steep slope on Chestnut Ridge, at a high elevation (around 1,800 feet), as weathered igneous rock of charnockite granite containing a complexity of quartz, pyroxene, feldspar converting to clay and other minerals. This wine is aged for 11 months in French oak barrels. (30% new French oak, with the remaining in neutral French oak).

Technical Data:

–  100% Pinot Noir

–  Alcohol: 13.8.

Producer Tasting Notes: Balanced acids, fruits and tannins, elegant, luxurious mouthfeel, lightly spiced, dark fruit, tea. Wild blackberries, dark cherries, vanilla, forest floor.

Wine #4. Concha y Toro, Amelia, Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari,  2022, Chile

Pinot Noir in Chile’s Limarí Valley benefits from a unique climate and soil combination: coastal breezes, morning fog, and a semi-desert climate. The cooling breeze of the Pacific Ocean doesn’t directly affect the dry and hot weather of the Limari wine region, but it influences the vineyards through the Camanchaca, a cooling fog that, every morning, enters the valley from the west and retreats as the sun. The soil is very rich in minerals, consisting mainly of clay, silt and chalk. Vine rows are mainly watered with a drip irrigation system.

The producer: Viña Concha y Toro, founded in 1883,  is Latin America’s leading producer and occupies an outstanding position among the world’s most important wine companies, currently exporting to 140 countries worldwide. Uniquely, it owns more than 12,000 hectares of prime vineyards in Chile, Argentina and the United States.

The wine – Vineyard & winemaking: The wine is produced from fruits from the Quebrada Seca vineyard (Block 5 and Block 15) which is situated on the northern bank of the Limarí River at an altitude of 190m above sea level, just 22 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The soils are clay and rich in calcium carbonate; the temperatures are cool and the mornings cloudy, so the fruit ripens slowly, producing fresher wines. Block 5 is associated with the Santa Cristina soil series. They are of colluvial origin with angular stones and a high percentage of rusted iron-rich red clay and calcium carbonate in the subsoil. Block 15 is associated with the Quebrada Seca soil series. These are of colluvial origin, without angular stones and have a high percentage of rusted iron-rich clay and calcium carbonate. It has a semi-arid coastal climate. The proximity to the ocean and the cool sea breezes that blow directly towards the valley cool off and moderate the temperatures at the vineyard and this, together with the morning fog, results in slow, prolonged fruit ripening, making for fresher wines.

The clusters are hand-harvested and selected. The grapes are carried to stainless steel tanks and 50% go into the tank as whole clusters, while the rest are carefully destemmed so as not to crush or break the berries. The grapes are gravity-fed into the tanks, avoiding the use of pumps. The temperature is reduced to 7°C-8°C and the grapes undergo a cold soak for 7 days with daily punch-downs in order to achieve an even temperature and delicate extraction. As the batches are fermenting, the wine is racked off its skins and into a selection of barrels, where the malolactic fermentation takes place naturally. The wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (10% new and 90% second use).

Technical Data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 14.5%

Producer Tasting Notes: Intense ruby red colour. This wine is complex with multiple layers led by red cherries and a hint of black tea leaves. It combines the structure of red clay very well with the minerality of the soil. It’s long and refreshing on the palate, with a very persistent finish.

 

  1. CV Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 17 participants rating them in order of preference. Two wines were considered either very good or excellent by the majority of the participants, while the other two were rated from mediocre to very good by the majority. The overall conclusion is that Concha y Toro, ‘Amelia’ Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari, 2022, CH was, by far, the Best Wine, followed by Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022, NZ.

References

https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/pinot-noir-of-marlborough-on-the-rise/#:~:text=Marlborough%2C%20New%20Zealand%20is%20a%20rising%20star,gravels%20in%20a%20slightly%20cooler%2C%20windier%20climate

https://www.lvmh.com/en/our-maisons/wines-spirits/cloudy-bay#:~:text=The%20layout%20features%20a%20comprehensive,to%20alcoholic%20fermentation%20in%20September

https://winetrailsandwanderlust.com/2025/04/30/pinot-noir-virginias-most-underrated-grape/

Barnes, A. The South America Wine Guide, 2022.

Wineries:

https://www.cloudybay.com/en-us/our-wines/pinot-noir/pinot-noir-2022/

https://domainenico.com/en/la-savante/

https://ankidaridge.com/explore-our-wines/

https://conchaytoro.com/vinos/amelia-pinot-noir/

.o0o.

Something to think about (an heresy statement in a Wine Club):

The finest wine is made better by the company it keeps.

.o0o.

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Tasting 282 October 28, 2025 Wines from Greece

Posted on October 20, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Club del Vino

Tasting No  – October 28, 2025 

Wines from Greece  

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA 

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this open tasting is to delve into the wines from Greece and also re-examine the information about their production and characteristics. The Club has celebrated two tastings of these wines – in October 2011 and in February 2013. After more than ten years, there have been advances in the wine production that
deserve to be updated. 

Type of tasting: open 

Presenters: Jaime Estupiñan 

Participants: (to be completed after the meeting) 

These are the wines: 

  • Douloufakis – Vidiano Crete, 2024 
  • GWC Assyrtiko Santorini, 2024 
  • Xinomavro Ramnista, 2019 
  • Ktima Mitravela Agiorgitiko, 2023 

The Menu 

  • Greek salad with feta cheese. 
  • Seafood. 
  • Grilled lamb chops with brown sauce and vegetables. 
  • Dessert, tea or coffee.  

  1. Overview of Wine Production in Greece 

Highlights 

Thousands of years ago, the Greeks introduced viticulture to much of Europe; today, the world is discovering Greek wines all over again. The Greek wine industry is experiencing an exciting and radical transformation, thanks to international investment and a new generation of winemakers well-versed in the world’s best winemaking practices.  

Greece has arguably one of the longest wine histories in the world as wine has always been an integral part of Greek culture since antiquity. Greece might not be the first country to produce wine, but what can be attributed to Ancient Greece is the development of a culture encompassing all aspects of wine: vine growing, wine production, legislation, trading and, of course, the art of consuming wine.  

Wine makers who have studied in Bordeaux, Burgundy, California and Australia are leading the changes in the Greek wine industry, not by attempting to make international grape varieties work in Greece’s difficult terrain, but by focusing on the indigenous grapes that have succeeded there for millennia. The wine produced from these indigenous varietals represent the important wine industry of Greece. Some international varietals are cultivated but they represent a minimal part of the wine production here and are mainly used for blending with the local varietals. 

Despite their huge heritage, the wines of Greece can promote themselves solely by virtue of their present attributes and not past glories. In the last three decades, a wind of change has been blowing through Greek wine production, turning a relatively traditional agricultural sector into a cutting-edge entity in today’s wine world. Greek producers have invested heavily in people, education, know-how and technology, starting a steep learning curve. The level of quality of wines currently coming out of Greece can match any other country, but there are several other features that make the Greek wines stand apart. 

Greece’s vine production area is spread across various regions, with a total of approximately 64,000 hectares dedicated to wine grapes. The country’s wine production has seen fluctuations in volume, with an average annual output of around 2.3 million hectoliters in 2020 and 1.7 million hectoliters in 2021. However, challenging weather conditions have led to a significant decrease in production in 2023. Despite these challenges, the Greek wine market continues to grow, with a projected market value of around US$665.3 million by 2029. The industry is also benefiting from the country’s economic recovery and a vibrant tourism sector, where visitors actively seek local wines. 

Greece produces more white than red wine, with the latter accounting for just a third of total production. An impressive 90% of plantings consist of the country’s rich stock of indigenous grape varieties (Greece has approximately 200 grape varieties). 

The most important indigenous grape varieties include: Assyrtiko, Moschofilero and Vidiano, which produce elegant and aromatic white wines; Mavrodaphne, which is the source of a luscious, fortified dessert wine; and Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro, red grapes that thrive on Greece’s south and northern mainland. Other white grapes of note are Lagorthi; Malagousia,  Savatiano and Roditis, while other indigenous red grapes include Kotsifali; Liatiko; Mandilaria; Limnio; Xinomavro; and Mavrotragano. Naturally, these Greek wines make excellent pairings with Mediterranean cuisine and simple grilled foods. 

Retsina is an ancient style of wine that is influenced by the presence of pine sap or resin. For a long time, Retsina was synonymous with Greek wine, and many still assume that all Greek wine tastes like Retsina, which is not the case. Retsina is just one style of wine within a sea of more familiar wines that Greece produces. 

The U.S. is the world’s second-largest export market for Greek wine, and the caliber of bottles sent this way continues to climb. 

Wine Regions and Denominations 

The very first thing to understand is that Greece is much more diverse in terms of climate than most people realize. The country has everything – from arid Mediterranean islands to wet, mountainous pine forests that receive snowfall in the winter. With such a diverse climate, you can expect Greek wines to be quite varied as well. So, one of the best ways to wrap your head around Greek wine is to split the country up into four overarching wine zones based on their climates. 

Greece has many regions, which can essentially be divided up into four primary climatic zones: 

♦Northern Greece: Wet climate; Epirus, Macedonia and Thrace. 

White Grapes: Malagousia and Assyrtiko, often blended with Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.  

Red Grapes: Mostly Xinomavro with a little bit of Merlot, Limnio, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Xinomavro is being hailed as “the Barolo of Greece,” where it grows in the regions of Naoussa and Amyndeo. This wine can taste strikingly similar to Nebbiolo (hence the correlation with Barolo), with dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and occasionally subtle tomato notes.  

♦Aegean Islands: Arid climate, Mediterrarean islands of Santorini, Samos, Límnos, etc. 

White Grapes: Assyrtiko (Santorini), Muscat Blanc (Samos), Athiri, Malvasia (called Monemvasia). Santorini, a volcanic island, is the homeland of Greece’s most famous white wine, Assyrtiko.  
Red Grapes: Limnio (Límnos), Mandilaria (Paros), and Mavrotragano. 

♦Central Greece: Modulating Mediterranean climate; Central Greece, Thessaly, and Attica. 

White Grapes: A lot of Savatiano and a little bit of Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Athiri, Begleri, and Chardonnay. 

Red Grapes: A lot of Xinomavro and a little bit of Agiorgitiko, Krasato, Stavroto, Limniona, Vradiano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. 

♦Southern Greece: Hot stable Mediterranean climate; Crete, Peloponnese, and Kefalonia.  

White Grapes: Moschofilero, Muscat Blanc, Robola (Kefalonia), Vidiano (Crete), and Roditis. 

Red Grapes: Agiorgitiko (Peloponnese), Mavrodaphne (Kefalonia; Peloponnese), Kotsifali (Crete), Liatiko (Crete),
Mandilaria (Crete), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon.  

♦Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).  

The origins of Greek PDO and PGI wine designations date back to the late 20th century, when Greece emerged as a serious player in the wine world. The introduction of these designations aimed to reinforce the concepts of authenticity and typicality, with specific geographical boundaries and varietal compositions set. PDO Wines of Greece are produced in historically significant regions and adhere to strict production methods and regulations. These wines must meet quality standards that demonstrate the unique characteristics and traditions of the region. PGI Wines of Greece are made from grapes grown within a broader geographical area and may use a wider range of grape varieties and winemaking techniques. They often showcase regional character, while allowing for more experimentation and diversity in style. Depending on their geographical breadth, PGI zones are divided into three levels: PGI Regional Wines; PGI District Wines; and PGIArea Wines.The regulations governing these designations einsure that Greek wines maintain the identity
and quality reflecting the country’s rich wine
making heritage. 

The Best Wines from Greece – a summary 

Greek wine is ancient, and bottles made from the country’s 300-plus indigenous grapes are food-friendly with serious value for money. Why, then, aren’t more people drinking them? 

Some think the problem is linguistic: the names of Greek wine varieties intimidate many Anglophones. “If you look at the labels, they can be quite confusing, and it’s hard to decipher what you’re looking at,” says John Stanley, founder of Stanley’s Wet Goods in Los Angeles. Some Greek winemakers even label their bottles of Agiorgitiko, a native red grape planted throughout Greece, as “St. George” in English-speaking markets. 

Whites:  

Assyrtiko [ A seer’ tee ko ] is a classy white grape, possibly some of the greatest varieties found in the Mediterranean basin. It originated in Santorini (Assyrtiko-Santorini) but it spread all over Greece, becoming, in terms of quality, one of the most important native varietals. It produces mainly dry white wines, some of which are being aged in oak. However, a number of sweet wines are made, from sun dried grapes. Assyrtiko is one of these rare white grape varieties that can grow on hot and dry climatic conditions, while at the same keeping the high alcohol in perfect balance by its crisp acidity. It is more of a textural variety, emphasizing extract, body and structure, rather than an aromatic grape. The smoky, salty and cellar–worthy white wine borne of Santorini’s moonscape-like volcanic vineyards dates back more than 3,500 years. Grown in sandy, nutrient-poor soils resistant to the Phylloxera pest that decimated vineyards across the world, Santorini was left untouched. This enabled the development of hearty vineyards, some of which are more than 150 years old. In fact, the island boasts some the few self-rooted vines left in Europe. In these more nutrient-rich soils and under less traumatic conditions, Assyrtiko displays a softer, fruitier character that appeals to a broader range of palates. However, it maintains a hallmark acidity and minerality that sets it apart from other international wines.  

The flavor profile of Assyrtiko is dominated by fresh citrus notes, such as lemon, lime, and grapefruit, alongside a characteristic minerality that gives the wine a refreshing, almost salty finish. The acidity in Assyrtiko is vibrant, making it an ideal wine to pair with a variety of seafood dishes, as well as Mediterranean cuisine like grilled vegetables and roasted chicken. Some Assyrtiko wines also show hints of herbs and floral notes, adding further complexity to the wine. 

Vidiano from Crete is one of the most exciting grapes to emerge. This viscous, mineral-driven grape has incredible texture that reminds of a cross between France’s Marsanne and Santorini’s Assyrtiko. We are just scratching the surface on this grape, and there will be a lot to love as we continue to watch winemakers work with it. 

Historically, the Savatiano and Roditis grapes were the workhorses. For decades they made simple white wines that were crowd-pleasing café staples for easy mezza pairings. There has been a lot of focus on leveling up these grapes, and we will continue to see more exciting ones to come over the next few years. 

The aromatic grapes Moschofilero and Malagousia are making some of the most exotic and engaging whites. Moschofilero is perfumed like Muscat but has a dryer finish, while Malagousia reaches towards floral tones but takes a step back to show off more of its stone fruit flavors.   

Reds:  

Reds definitely took a back seat to their white counterparts when Greek wines reemerged on the international wine scene a decade ago. The red grapes’ popularity suffered from difficult-to-pronounce names and a decided rusticity at the time. So much has advanced over the last decade.  

The main native grape in the north is Xinomavro (kseen-o-mav-ro), widely regarded the finest red wine of the country, which is often referred to as Greece’s Nebbiolo. This grape is known for its dark color (mavro means black) and its high acidity and tannic texture (xino means acid). There are so many styles emerging from the classic regions of Amyndeon and Naoussa in Macedon). This is mountainous country with a mix of high-altitude vineyards and great terroirs from alluvial runoff. There are some truly exciting wines coming from these regions.  

In the south there is Agiorgitiko (—eye-your-gitty-ko), the most planted native red grape in Greece, that can be found throughout Greece, but particularly in the Nemea region of the Peloponnese where it forms a PDO zone. Some Greek winemakers label their bottles of Agiorgitiko, as “St. George” for English-speaking markets. A low- to medium-yielding variety producing medium- to high-acid wines depending on elevations and soil profiles. Deep red fruits (plum and cherry) and spice. Considered to be one of Greece’s best red varietals and biggest producing red variety. This grape has a juicer profile often described as Sangiovese-like, closer to Nero d’Avola from Sicily, with darker berry fruit but sweeter warmer tannic structure. It is easy to drink on its own.   

A host of other reds are beginning to find their footing too,  including  Mavrodaphne, Mavrotragano, Limniona, and Liatiko, sometimes seen on their own and sometime in blends. 

 

  1. Information on the Wines

♦Wine #1.  Douloufakis ‘Dafnios’ Vidiano PGI Crete, 2024 

The Producer: Domaine Douloufakis Winery: In 1930, Dimitris Douloufakis became one of the first winemakers in Crete to produce wines professionally in his traditional, old winery. Their privately owned vineyards of 200 acres are located in the heart of the wine-growing zone of Crete, in Dafnes, Heraklion and at an altitude of 350 – 450 meters. The limestone soils of the area and the microclimate that prevails are considered ideal for the production of good quality grapes. This region has a long history in viticulture and also has been established as a Protected Designation of Origin for Liatiko wines .The privately owned vineyards are certified 100% organic and span over 70 acres of rolling hills in the Dafnes sub-region, a village close to Iraklio in Crete.  

 – The wine:

  • Vintage: 2024           Grape: 100% Vidiano 
  • Region/appellation: PGI Crete 
  • Viticulture: certified organic farming 
  • Winemaking entirely in steel.  
  • 13.5% APV 

Winemaker notes: The 2024 “Dafnios” has a pronounced bouquet of ripe peach, apricots, honeydew melon, papaya, and gardenia. The palate is broad and creamy, balanced by crisp acidity and peachy tropical fruit flavors. It’s reminiscent of a Northern Rhône Viognier, but with a nervier backbone.  

Critic’s review: “Douloufakis was the estate that resuscitated Vidiano from a scant 10 hectares at the turn of the 20th century. The estate now farms a total of 25ha organically with a strong focus on Vidiano grown on Crete’s abundant limestone. Although famous for the single-vineyard, barrel-fermented Aspros Lagos, this steel-fermented wine is a brilliant introduction to the variety. Fleshy and bold with some of the richness and decadence of Viognier, with attractive flavors of fresh peach, melon and apricot, but the palate is a completely different game: alert, spicy, structured by notable acidity and with real drive and concentration through to the finish.”(Pam Roberto, 2025). 

♦Wine #2. Greek Wine Cellars – GWC, ‘Flowers’ Assyrtiko, Santorini, 2024. 

– The Producer: Greek Wine Cellars, formerly known as Kourtaki Wines, is a large, historic wine producing and blottling company in Greece. The company was founded in 1895 by Vassili Kourtakis, one of the first Greeks to gain a diploma in oenology. In 1905, the company established in Markopoulo, Mesogia, an old wine-growing region where it continues to operate today. The company has continuously expanded its operations to include several regional wineries across Greece, including Ritsona, the Peloponnese, and Crete. It encompasses several brands split in three divisions: Kourtaki, Calliga and Oenoforos. Their wines are produced under PDO and PGI appellations. The winery’s annual production is approximately 30 milion bottles, half of which is exported. The The Ritsona winery in central Greece has always been at the forefront in implementing new methods and investing in modern technology with the aim of constantly improving the wines it produces.  

The wine: made from 100% indigenous Assyrtiko grapes, once fruiting begins, the grapes grow sheltered in baskets called kouloura, creating a natural work of art. Most wines are unoaked, though some very good examples of oaked Assyrtiko are made and boast the same great ageing potential. 

  • Vintage: 2024 
  • Grape: 100% Assyrtiko 
  • Region/appellation: Santorini PDO 
  • Aging: 5-7 months          13% ABV 

Winemaker’s notes: Golden yellow color, with hints of citrus & apple on the nose. Crisp clean fruit on the palate with the development of a pleasant acidity and minerality, the latter derived from the unique character of the geology of this dramatic volcanic island. Great with seafood. 

♦Wine #3.  Kir-Yianni Estate, ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro, 2019 

– The Producer: Kir-Yianni Estate was established in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry. Kir-Yianni, “Mr. John” in Greek, is best known for producing premium Xinomavro from the slopes of Mt. Vermio in Northwestern Greece. Today, Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, actively manages the winery and their two 30+ year-old estate vineyards located in Naoussa and Amyndeon. The Kir-Yianni philosophy is a desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the consumer.  

– The Wine: The Ramnista vineyard has a southeast exposure at an altitude of 120-280m. The grapes for Ramnista are carefully handpicked. They use grapes mostly from the vineyard blocks of lower pH and with lighter soil type in order to maximize the aromatic intensity and complexity. 

  • Vintage: 2019 
  • Grape: 100% Xinomavro 
  • Region/appellation: Naoussa PDO  
  • Vinification: grapes are handpicked and carefully sorted before being crushed. Fermentation is done in 5,000ltr French Oak wooden vats at controlled temperatures with regular Pigage. The final blend is made five months after harvest. 
  • Ageing: 80% of the wines spends 16 months in 225L barrels, 20% in 500L barrels. Both French and American oak casks are used, plus further ageing in bottle for another 12 months. 
  • 14% ABV 
  • Dintinctions/Awards: Gold (Mundus Vini, 2023); Gold (Thessaloniki Intnl. Wine Competition, 2023); Bronze (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2023); Bronze (Intnl. Wine Competition, 2023). 

Winemaker’s notes: Garnet red, typical color to Xinomavro. Vibrant red and black fruit on the nose, with aromas of strawberry, cherry, and plums. A crisp and fruit-forward mouth with delicate notes of sweet spices and tobacco. Full body with good acidity and smooth tannins adding structure and leading to a pleasant finish. This exceptional vintage showcases the Xinomavro grape’s complexity, offering notes of ripe red berries, dried plums, and subtle hints of olive and tobacco. On the palate, you’ll enjoy its vibrant acidity and well-integrated tannins, leading to a smooth, lengthy finish. Perfect for pairing with grilled meats or savory Mediterranean dishes. This wine can taste strikingly similar to Nebbiolo (hence the correlation with Barolo), with dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and occasionally subtle tomato notes.  

Tasting notes: “An aromatic complex wine which combines powerfully fresh red fruits and notes of rose, make up the new vintage of 2019 Ramnista. On the palate, gentle tannins, and round mouth feel, with distinctive sense of the oak barrel. The unexpected full body and robust acidity showcase a great wine with aging potential up to 15 years.” 

♦Wine #4. Mitravelas Estate, ‘Ktima’ Agiorgitiko, Nemea, 2023 

– The Producer:   Mitravelas Estate was founded in the city center in 1913 and later in the 1950’s the three Mitravelas brothers Andreas, Spyros and Nikos took over the winery. By the end of the 20th century, the family owns about 10 hectares of vineyards in various areas of Nemea zone. The winery is located in Achaldia, one of the best sites in Nevea. Some pieces of the land are formed of extremely old vines which are dry farmed non irrigated. This results in very small annual production and on the other hand excellent concentrations and ripeness of the grapes. Elements necessary for the highest quality in the wines produced. 

– The Wine: Fir this wine, the ensemble of vineyards are located mainly on the hillside around the area of ​​Nemea, in the winery’s privately owned area of ​​10 hectares, yet also in cooperating viticulturists’ land with long-term contracts, where the yields are minimized, in order to maximize the quality. Different soils and altitudes depending the wine to be produced in each vineyard. Ktima Agiorgitiko wine have received awards for quality since its 2005 vintage.  

  • Vintage: 2023 
  • Grape: 100% Agiorgitiko 
  • Region/appellation: Nemea PDO 
  • Vinification: grapes are destemmed and inoculated with autochthone yeasts selected from the Nemea area; followed by a long stay with the grapes, about 15 days, at relatively low temperatures in order to preserve the fruity aromatic characteristics and to extract only the fine tannins. Alcoholic fermentation is followed by malolactic fermentation.  
  • Ageing: 6-8 months ageing in French oak barrels, 2nd and 3rd use.  It is expected that for the next at least 8 years it will become more complex and velvetiy. 
  • 14.5% ABV 

Winemaker’s notes: The 2023 Ktima Agiorgitiko from Mitravelas Estate is a deep red-violet color wine with aromas of blackcurrant, pomegranate, and plum. It features flavors of sour cherry, dark fruits, and hints of leather, pepper, and vanilla. The wine is known for its velvety tannins and rich acidity, making it suitable for pairing with red meats, game, and spicy dishes. It has received positive reviews for its complexity and aging potential, with a tasting note describing it as a firm and medium-fruity red with a dusty finish.  

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

 

References: 

Greek wine – Wikipedia 

The Wine Regions of Greece (Maps) | Wine Folly 

The Ancient Greek Varieties Making Thoroughly Modern Wines | Wine Enthusiast Magazine 

The history of Greek wine Archives – Wines of Greece 

PDO, PGI, IDO – What is this? | The Greek Wine Experience 

The Best Greek Wines to Drink Right Now | Wine Enthusiast Magazine 

A Guide to the Most Popular Greek Wine Varieties 

8 of the Very Best Greek Wines: What They Are and Where to Find Them 

Top 13 Greek Red wines in United States right now 

Douloufakis Winery, Crete (Greece) Vidiano “Dafnios” 2024 ($18) – Wine Review Online 

Greek Wine Cellars (Markopoulo) – Wines of Greece 

Naoussa Cuvée Villages — Ktima Kir-Yianni 

Ramnista — Ktima Kir-Yianni 

2023 Ktima Mitravelas – Agiorgitiko Nemea Estate Red (750ml). MacArthur Beverages 

.o0o.

Laughing Matter:

It is a full bodied wine with hints of acrimony, partisanship, and moral outrage.

.o0o.

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Good Read: K. Lynch “Adventures on the Wine Route”

Posted on October 17, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Kermit Lynch: Adventures on the Wine Route – A Wine Buyer’s Tour de France, 2019 – The 25th Aniversary Edition

Amazon: Kindle $12.99, Paperback $18.46, Hardcover $55.21
This book has been recommended by Juan Colaiacovo, one of the founders and President of the Club del Vino  for many years. He wrote: 

 “”Espero que estén bien para recibir el otoño. Buena época para degustar vinos.
Les envío foto de este libro que recomiendo. Ameno y muy interesante. El autor relata su experiencia como importador de vinos de  Francia. 1975-2000. El libro se editó ese último año. Ahora salió una actualización con un capítulo adicional.
Recomiendo ponerlo en el blog y avisarle a los socios.
Saludos
Juan””

The newly designed twenty-fifth anniversary edition of the classic volume, brought up-to-date.

“Wine is, above all, about pleasure. Those who make it ponderous make it dull . . . If you keep an open mind and take each wine on its own terms, there is a world of magic to discover.” So wrote the renowned wine expert Kermit Lynch in the introduction to Adventures on the Wine Route, his ultimate tour of France, especially its wine cellars. The “magic” of wine is Lynch’s subject as he takes the reader on a singular journey through the Loire, Bordeaux, the Languedoc, Provence, northern and southern Rhone, and Burgundy. In Adventures on the Wine Route, the wine lover will find wisdom without a trace of pretension and hype. As Victor Hazan wrote, “In Kermit Lynch’s small, true, delightful book there is more understanding about what wine really is than in everything else I have read.”

Praise for Lynch and for Adventures on the Wine Route has not ceased since the book’s initial publication a quarter century ago. In 2007, the New York Times called it “one of the finest American books on wine.” And in June 2012, The Wall Street Journal proclaimed it “the best book on the wine business.” Full of vivid portraits of French vintners, memorable evocations of the French countryside, and, of course, vibrant descriptions of French wines, this new edition of Adventures on the Wine Route updates a modern classic for our times.

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Tasting No 281 – Discovering Tannat From the Americas – September 30, 2025

Posted on September 20, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 281 – September 30, 2025, 12:30 pm

Discovering Tannat From the Americas

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore the variety of Tannat wines being produced across regions in the Americas. In addition to three wines of the Tannat varietal, the tasting included one white wine.

Type of tasting: Blind

Presenters: Jose Brakarz and Jorge Requena

Participants: (to be completed after the tasting)

These are the wines:

  1. Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020.
  2. Bodega Garzón, Single Vineyard Tannat, Maldonado, Uruguay, 2022.
  3. Aranjuez, Tannat Origen, Bolivia, 2023.
  4. Allegretto, ‘Tannat’, Paso Robles, California, 2019. 

  1. Menu

  • Green salad w/hearts of palm
  • Ravioli di Vitello on red sauce
  • Filet Mignon with roated potatoes
  • Desert

  1. The History of Tannat Wines

Tannat’s origins in France

  • Origins: The Tannat grape originated in southwestern France and later found its second home and global identity in Uruguay. Once a minor, intensely tannic grape, modern winemaking techniques and its successful adaptation in the New World have transformed it into a more pleasant wine. Some sources say that the name Tannat derives from a word in the Béarn dialect meaning “tanned,” referring to its deep color, but more accepted is the relation to the grape’s high tannin content.
  • Basque heritage: The Tannat grape is believed to have originated in the Basque region, specifically in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains in southwestern France.
  • France’s Madiran region: Tannat’s association with French winemaking dates to at least the 17th and 18th centuries in the Madiran region. Historically, Tannat was known for producing powerful, high-tannin wines. Appellation laws in Madiran required it to be blended with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc to soften its intense and rustic character.
  • Smoothing the tannins – development of micro-oxygenation: The quest to tame Tannat’s tannins led to a significant winemaking innovation. In 1991, Madiran winemaker Patrick Ducournau pioneered micro-oxygenation, a process that exposes fermenting wine to tiny, controlled amounts of oxygen to soften tannins. This technique is now used globally. 

The move to Uruguay.

  • In 1870, a Basque immigrant named Pascual Harriague brought Tannat cuttings to Uruguay. The grape adapted perfectly to Uruguay’s Atlantic-influenced, humid climate, which is similar to its home in the Pyrenees. It emerged as a national grape, known as “Harriague” in Uruguay.

Tannat around the New World

  • From Uruguay, Tannat was introduced to other regions in South America and the United States, including California, Texas and Virginia. And even Bolivia, were it adapted very well to the mountainous geography of the Tarija region.

A perceived health benefit:

  • The grape’s thick skin and numerous seeds give Tannat wines very high levels of antioxidants, particularly procyanidins. This has contributed to its recent popularity, with some researchers correlating the consumption of Tannat-rich Madiran wines with longer lifespans in the region.

 

  • Production Regions in the Americas

  

  1. Tannat in Uruguay
  • The grape was Introduced in the country around 1870 by a basque immigrant.
  • Survived Phylloxera: While Phylloxera decimated French vineyards in the mid-19th century, Tannat plantings in Uruguay survived. The grape continued to gain popularity, eventually becoming the country’s “national grape” and its most-planted variety.
  • Uruguayan style: In contrast to the traditional robust French style, Uruguayan Tannats often have smoother, riper tannins and more dominant black fruit flavors. They are also lighter in body and low in tannins. This is due to clonal selection and winemaking techniques that emphasize approachability. 
  • It is planted in low altitudes, mainly in the departments of Canelones and Montevideo, which are coastal areas.
  • Currently: Plantings of Tannat (also known in Uruguay as Harriague) have been increasing in Uruguay each year as that country’s wine industry develops. Currently Tannat is the most common variety planted in the country (36% of all types).The Tannat wines produced here are characterized by more elegant and softer tannins and blackberry fruit notes. Vineyards in Uruguay have begun to distinguish between the “old vines” that are descendants from the original cuttings brought over from Europe and the new clones being produced today. The newer vines tend to produce more powerful wines with higher alcohol levels but less acidity and complex fruit characteristics. 

  1. Tannat in Bolivia – Tarija
  • Location: Wine production in Bolivia is located between 21- and 23-degrees south latitude and between 1,600 and 2,000 meters above sea level. Bolivian farmers cultivate crops brought to the country hundreds of years ago by Jesuit missionaries. There are some 5,000 hectares of grape plantations in the region.
  • Altitude: The altitude means a smaller ozone layer, which filters out the rays, so the incidence of ultraviolet rays is greater at higher altitudes, and this generates a response from the plant. As a result of the effects of these rays the plant produces a thickening of the grape skin and a higher content of resveratrol, a phenol that protects the cardiovascular system.
  • Cultivation: Grape vines need a temperate climate, with seasons, to produce fruit worthy of wine production. Specific to Bolivia, high altitude leads to lower temperature, which, in the winter months, creates low enough pressure to pull even more cold air from the plains of Patagonia. This combination creates a winter cold enough to force the vines to go dormant, an absolute necessity to growing fine wine grapes.
  • This high altitude has other advantages. For one, the intensity of the sunlight, much like Mendoza in Argentina, allows grapes to ripen more quickly during the day than they would at the same temperature at a lower altitude. The temperature drops so quickly, and so low, at night, that the grapes essentially shut down. This combination preserves acidity, without sacrificing the complexity that comes from good ripeness.
  • Characteristic of High altitude wines: The high-altitude variety differs greatly from other regions as it generates an interesting concentration of aromas and a distinctive color. The maturation of the tannins is very gentle that ends up with grapes that have very ripe and very soft seed tannins.

  1. Tannat in the USA – Paso Robles, CA
  • The Region: The Paso Robles Willow Creek District, for well over 100 years, has been the home of vineyards, Mennonite families, and walnut orchards. It was an area early identified with agricultural potential that was confirmed by years of cultivation and science. Many popular and burgeoning brands from the Paso Robles AVA have made their home in the Willow Creek District and fruit from the AVA is in high demand. It is an area of Paso Robles with immense beauty and color.
  • Wines form the Area: Paso Robles wines are known for being bold, opulent, and high-alcohol red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhône-style blends, along with Zinfandel. The region’s diverse soils, microclimates, and creative winemaking approach allow for this variety, producing wines with rich complexity, ripe fruit, and a firm backbone of acidity that can be enjoyed young or aged. 
  • Cultivation: The Allegretto Wines (current tasting) utilizes sustainable practices in both vineyards by emphasizing biodynamic farming practices that provide optimal times for sowing, transplanting, cultivation, and harvesting using biodynamic preparations. These practices promote the forces that work dynamically within the soil, compost, and plants to ultimately provide healthier vines, earth, and health.
  • Allegretto Wines encompasses two vineyards within two different sub-appellations of Paso Robles. The estate and single vineyard wines are sourced from the vineyards that surround the Allegretto Resort in the Estrella District, as well as the westside vineyard in the Willow Creek District.

 

  1. Information about the Wines

Wine #1. Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ, 2024

The Producer: Cloudy Bay Vineyards, established in 1985, is today a partnership with champagne house Veuve Clicquot.  The winery and vineyards are situated in the Wairau Valley in Marlborough at the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island. This unique and cool wine region enjoys a maritime climate with the longest hours of sunshine of any place in New Zealand.

Terroir: Free-draining gravelly soils and the valley’s maritime climate come together in harmony to create the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  The resulting wines are pure, vibrant and full of concentrated stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical characters. This is the Cloudy Bay benchmark style. Quality and Reputation:  Cloudy Bay became an iconic brand and a standard-bearer for the Marlborough region, setting a new benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc globally. 

The Wine: Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc pioneered a fresh, exuberant, and easily recognizable style with notes of gooseberries, kiwi fruit, and tropical fruits, a vibrant acidity, and pungent aromas. This unique character helped elevate New Zealand’s reputation in the wine world, with Cloudy Bay’s 1996 Sauvignon Blanc being the first New Zealand wine to make the Wine Spectator Top Wines of the World list.

  • Grape: 100% Sauvingnon Blanc
  • Viticulture: Grapes are sourced from prime locations in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley, known for free-draining gravelly soils and a favorable maritime climate. Hand-Harvesting: Grapes are hand-picked to select only the best fruit. Harvesting occurs during the cooler nights and early mornings to retain the rapes’ freshness.
  • Vinification: Hand-harvesting grapes from Marlborough’s Wairau Valley at optimal ripeness; De-stemming and crushing are followed by a gentle pressing to extract juice; cold settling the juice for 48-72 hours and fermenting it in stainless steel tanks at controlled, cool temperatures to preserve fresh, fruity, and floral aromas. A small portion may be fermented in old oak barrels for complexity, and the wine is then aged on its lees to enhance aroma and structure, with careful blending from separate vineyard parcels to ensure quality and consistency. 
  • Aging: The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks, sometimes resting on fine lees to build texture and flavor complexity. 
  • Alcohol: 13.5% ABV
  • Blending: Each parcel of fruit is fermented separately before being carefully blended by the winemakers to achieve the signature Cloudy Bay quality and consistency.
  • Terroir: Free-draining gravelly soils and the valley’s maritime climate come together in harmony to create the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The resulting wines are pure, vibrant and full of concentrated stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical characters. This is the Cloudy Bay benchmark style. Quality and Reputation:  Cloudy Bay became an iconic brand and a standard-bearer for the Marlborough region, setting a new benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc globally. 

Terroir: Free-draining gravelly soils and the valley’s maritime climate come together in harmony to create the perfect conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  The resulting wines are pure, vibrant and full of concentrated stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical characters. This is the Cloudy Bay benchmark style. Quality and Reputation:  Cloudy Bay became an iconic brand and a standard-bearer for the Marlborough region, setting a new benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc globally.

Tasting Notes: Quite restrained on the nose and less tropical than other vintages. It unfurls in the glass to reveal profound and attractive notes of citrus, lime leaf, apricot and orange blossom.  The palate shows intense flavor, with subtle-but-juicy passionfruit notes melding with those of citrus, white stone fruit, makrut lime, hibiscus and grapefruit. Throughout, there is a freshening saline edge and a fresh-squeezed lemon acidity that carries a long, concentrated and complex finish.

Wine #2. Bodega Garzon, Single Vineyard Tannat, Maldonado UR, 2022

The Producer: located close to Uruguay’s ‘Riviera’ at Punta del Este and the fashionable fishing village of José Ignacio, the Bodega Garzón winery may only have opened in 2016, but it is already spearheading the Uruguayan wine scene. Blessed with some of the world’s oldest granitic soils (dating back 2,500 million years), the estate covers 2,200 hectares with a vibrant biodiversity that includes untouched native forests and palm trees. Striking examples of the ancient rocks protrude into the underground cellars, forming part of the very architecture, and the entire estate holds a Silver LEED certification (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design), built with sustainability in mind.

The Wine: 

  • Grape: 100% Tannat
  • Vinification: Harvesting: Grapes are handpicked at optimal ripeness; the grapes are destemmed, lightly crushed, and may undergo a pre-fermentation cold soak to extract fruit character and maintain freshness. Fermentation takes place in large concrete tanks, using natural yeasts. The wine is kept on skins for a limited time (around 7 days) to avoid over-extraction of tannins. Techniques like pumping over or punching down the cap are often avoided.
  • Aging: 12 – 18 months in untoasted French oak barrels.
  • Alcohol:14.5% ABV

Terroir: The cool Atlantic breezes and coastal influence help maintain acidity and freshness in the grape.

Tasting Notes: Deep purple in color, this powerful Tannat presents an elegant nose, with aromas reminiscent of red fruits such as cherries and strawberries, black plums, tobacco, and dark chocolate on a spicy background. On the palate, it is juicy and fresh, with a rich body and a very pleasant aftertaste, and a long, vibrant finish.

Wine #3. Aranjuez, Tannat Origen, Bolivia, 2023.

The Producer: Vinos Aranjuez was founded on March 31, 1976, when Milton Castellanos Espinoza, an engineer, and his wife, Ana Hebe Cortez Vaca Guzmán, decided to make the winery’s first bottle a reality. Since then, it has remained a family business to this day. Located in southern Bolivia and nestled among the mountains, the central valley of Tarija is home to the largest number of grapes, wines, and singanis in the country. All the winemaking takes place above 1,600 meters (about 5249.34 ft) above sea level. This valley boasts a distinct temperature range that allows for an optimal viticultural cycle.

The Wine:

  • Grape: 100% Tannat
  • Viticulture: Tannat Origen, made exclusively with grapes from lot 40, 6-hectare vineyard at an altitude of 1,950 meters (about 1.21 mi), where Tannat was first planted in Bolivia in 1999.
  • Vinification: Hand-picked bunches from the first Tannat vineyard planted in Bolivia. Temperature-controlled fermentation. Manual bunch selection at the winery.
  • Aging: Aged for 12 months in new French oak barrels, followed by the same amount of time in the bottle.
  • Alcohol: 14.2% ABV.

Tasting notes: Intense garnet red color with marked violet tones.On the nose, it presents aromas of blackberries, plums, and ripe blueberries, accompanied by subtle notes of vanilla and cocoa, contributed by its oak aging. On the palate, its sweet and delicate tannins stand out, balanced by very good acidity, rounding out the body of this noble and elegant wine.

“This wine has been produced since 2015 and comes from lot 40, the first of the Tannats planted in Bolivia around 1999. From clayey and silty soils, this wine has been aged for a year in lightly toasted barrels and offers a wealth of red and black fruit, all very ripe. The tannins of the Tannat, always robust, here behave like apartment kittens, docile and gentle. A perfect wine to cellar or to open with meat-filled empanadas”. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados)

 Wine #4, Allegretto, ‘Tannat’, Paso Robles, CA, 2019.

The Producer: Allegretto Vineyard Resort is located in the Estrella AVA, located on the east side of Paso Robles, California. The Estrella District is known for warm summer days are cooled by modest maritime sea breezes through the Templeton Gap effect, as well asdownslope winds from the eastern ranges, which are reflected by early morning fog in the summer. The soils in the Estrella are predominantly alluvial, ranging from fine sandy loams to the more substantial clay loam. The terroir is quite perfect for the cultivation of premium winegrapes, warm days that do lead to cool nights, moderate soil rooting depths control vigor in vines, and tempered water stress produce complex fruit flavors. Estate-grown and single vineyard wines are sourced from the vineyards that surround the estate.

The Wine

  • Grape: 100% Tannat
  • Region/appellation: Paso Robles Central
  • Viticulture: grapes are from Allegretto Vineyard, emphasizing biodynamic farming, to promote healthy soil and plants for healthier wines.
  • Vinification: After harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and lightly crushed. The crushed grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks.
  • Aging: The wine is then aged for approximately 40 months (about 3 and a half years) in American oak barrels, with a significant portion, about 35%, being new oak to enhance its structure and flavors.
  • Alcohol: 14.3% ABV.

Tasting notes: deep dark hue, deep black cherry color. On the nose, the 2019 Tannat presents an intense nose with aromas of black currant, blueberry and exotic spices like anise and cardamom. On the Palate, layers of blackcurrant, plum, and spice, interwoven with earthy and peppery flavors. It offers a powerful and structured profile with firm tannins, a balance of dark.   

“The bottle age is helping this dense wine find a solid expression, as the nose offers subtly integrated aromas of stewed strawberry, baking spice and sumac. The palate is framed by tannins that remain firm enough to wrap around the black currant, pepper and turned-earth flavors”.

Members Evaluation of the Wines – to be published after the tasting

References :

Tannat – Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uruguayan_wine#Grape_varieties

https://www.cloudybay.com/en-us/our-wines/sauvignon-blanc/sauvignon-blanc-2024/

https://www.vinosaranjuez.com/vinos/vino-tannat-origen/

https://bodegagarzon.com/en/wine/tannat-2023-2/

(https://pasowine.com/member/allegretto-wines/?refer=winery)

(Wine Enthusiast) https://www.wineenthusiast.com/buying-guide/allegretto-2019-ayres-family-reserve-tannat-paso-robles/?srsltid=AfmBOopX3V54f3IcGyPSDnzaJxbxEiQva6_5Kwa31wcQ9t2HGHTmv175

.o0o.

Laughing matter

A question of abstinence


.o0o.

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Club del Vino Historic document of 2003

Posted on August 30, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Club del Vino Historic document of 2003

 

Our friend and long time member of the Club del Vino  Pedro Turina sent us an interesting document of the Club del Vino. Pedro’s message: Gracias por los recuerdos del pasado, te agrego otro documento para el archivo.

The eMail from allopez@webtv.net lists the Club del Vino first Board of Directors and proposes two names for the Technical Committee


.o0o.

To smile and to remember

Luis Fernando Verissimo 1936-2025                   Onde fica Beleléu?

Posted in General, Wine - Vino - Vinho | Leave a comment

Tasting No. 280 Aromas in White Wines – August 26, 2025

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 280 – August 26, 2025

Aromas in White Wines 

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this blind tasting was to explore and discuss the characteristics of key aromas in white wines, without any attempt to identify the wines being tasted. White wines of different grape varieties and/or winemaking techniques were selected for this tasting.

 

Type of tasting: Blind

 

Presenters: Sergio Ardila and Cesar Falconi

 

Participants:  S. Ardila; J. Brakarz;J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; A  and C. Perazza; J. Requena; C. Santelices; L. Uechi; and G. Vega.

 

  1. The Menu

  • Fruit salad with goat cheese
  • Ravioli with white sauce
  • Roasted pork with potatoes
  • Dessert, tea or coffee

 

  1. Overview of Wine’s General Characteristics 

When evaluating red and white wines, you’re looking for a balance of several key characteristics that contribute to the overall experience. While some characteristics are universal, others are more pronounced or specific to one type of wine.

The main characteristics we look for in a good wine are:

  • Acidity: This gives wine its refreshing, crisp, and sometimes tart quality. It’s the “mouth-watering” sensation you feel. Acidity acts as a preservative and provides structure. Higher acidity can make a wine feel lighter.
  • Sweetness (Residual Sugar): Wines can range from bone-dry (no perceptible sugar) to lusciously sweet. Sweetness is due to residual sugar left after fermentation. It balances acidity and can contribute to body.
  • Body/Mouthfeel: This refers to how the wine feels in your mouth – its weight and richness. Factors like alcohol content, residual sugar, and oak aging contribute to body.
  • Aroma/Flavor Profile: This is what you smell and taste. Wines can have a vast array of aromas and flavors, often categorized according to their origins:
  • Primary Aromas/Flavors: From the grape itself (fruits, florals, herbs, spices, earthy notes).
  • Secondary Aromas/Flavors: From the winemaking process (e.g., yeast, butter from malolactic fermentation, toast or vanilla from oak aging).
  • Tertiary Aromas/Flavors: From aging in the bottle (e.g., dried fruit, leather, mushroom, nutty notes).

  • Balance: This is crucial for a good wine. It means all the elements (acidity, sweetness, tannin, alcohol, fruit) are in harmony, with none overpowering the others.
  • Finish/Length: This is the lingering impression of the wine in your mouth after you’ve swallowed it. A long, pleasant finish is a sign of quality.
  • Complexity: A complex wine reveals multiple layers of aromas and flavors that evolve as you taste it. It’s not one-dimensional.
  • Clarity & Color:
  • Clarity: The wine should be clear, not cloudy, unless it’s a specific style of natural wine that intentionally has some haze.
  • Color: The hue can indicate age, grape varietal, and winemaking techniques.

In red wines, Tannins is a key characteristic, derived primarily from grape skins, seeds, and stems, and sometimes from oak aging. They provide structure and allow red wines to age well. Tannins can be described as ripe, smooth, rustic, or green.

Specific Characteristics for White Wines

  • Acidity: generally, white wines tend to have higher acidity than red wines, contributing to their refreshing quality.
  • Color: White wines range from pale straw yellow with green tinges (young, unoaked) to deeper golden hues (oaked, older, or from warmer climates).
  • Typical Flavors: white wines commonly exhibit: i) citrus notes (lemon, lime, grapefruit), ii) tree fruits (apple, pear), iii) stone fruits (peach, apricot), iv) tropical fruits (pineapple, mango), v) floral notes, and often vi) mineral or herbaceous undertones.
  • Absence of Tannins (mostly): white wines are typically made without skin contact during fermentation, meaning they have very little to no tannin (unless aged in new oak barrels, which can impart some).

  1. The Influence of Aroma on Flavor

When tasting wines, the influence of aroma on their flavor and other characteristics, especially in white wines, is fundamental and crucial. In fact, the perception of flavor is overwhelmingly linked to the sense of smell. The sense of smell accounts for 80% of what we perceive as flavor. While the tongue detects basic tastes (sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami), it is the nose that distinguishes the nuances and specific notes, such as fruits, flowers, spices, etc. To prove this, one only needs to hold their nose while tasting a food or drink: the flavors are perceived as much more muted and less defined.

What distinguishes white wines from reds or rosés are the essential aromas and sensations perceived on the palate. White wine is therefore fresh, light, and subtle, and presents flavors highly appreciated by the finest palates.

The wine releases different aromas, each one coming from the terroir, the grape variety, the winemaking technique, or even the wine’s aging process. These aromas are revealed in different stages of the tasting:

  1. Olfactory analysis of white wine

The olfactory examination allows for the identification of the wine’s “nose” (the aromas), thanks to the phenomenon of retro-olfaction. Even before bringing the wine to the mouth, the sense of smell can guide us and deliver the wine’s “bouquet” through two stages:

  • The first nose: This first step consists of smelling the wine in the glass, even before swirling it. It allows for the discovery of possible wine defects, such as cork taint or a vinegar smell.
  • The second nose: This second step consists of swirling the wine in the glass to aerate it and release the aromas. In the second nose, the olfactory analysis already allows us to become aware of the wine’s origins (grape variety, wine region, winemaking method, etc.).

The olfactory analysis of a white wine can indicate whether the wine is “closed” or “open”. We speak of a closed wine when no striking aroma is discovered in the first nose. The wine seems bland and monotonous, very unexpressive. This can then indicate that the white wine is in a so-called “transition phase” of its evolution. The best thing to do then is to help it evolve by decanting it.

  1. Retro-olfactation

When drinking wine, volatile aromatic molecules travel from the mouth through the internal passages to the olfactory receptors in the nose. This process, known as retro-olfaction, is what creates the perception of “flavor” that we associate with the specific notes of the wine.

  1. Aromas in White Wines

White wines offer a delightful and diverse range of aromas, influenced by the grape varietal, the climate it’s grown in, and winemaking techniques. These aromas can be broadly categorized into three types:

  1. Primary Aromas (Varietal Aromas): These come directly from the grape itself. They are the freshest and often most prominent scents in young white wines. This aroma category includes: citrus fruits; tree fruits; stone fruits; tropical fruits; floral; herbal/vegetal; mineral.
  2. Secondary Aromas (Winemaking Aromas): These develop during the fermentation and aging processes.These include: yeast/bread/brioche; dairy/cream/butter; nutty; vanilla/toast/spice.
  3. Tertiary Aromas (Aging Aromas): These develop as the wine matures in the bottle over time. Not all white wines are meant for long aging, but those that are can develop fascinating complexities. These include: dried fruit; honey/caramel; nutty, sherry-like notes; earthy/mushroom; petrol/kerosene.

Understanding these different aroma categories and how they relate to grape varietals and winemaking methods will greatly enhance your enjoyment and appreciation of white wines.  To help guide our tasting, Sergio distributed a tasting sheet detailing the specifics of these categories of aromas, and explained how we should carry out the tasting.

Examples of aromatic profiles in white wines 

White wines offer a fascinating spectrum of aromas. Here you can find a breakdown of some white wines with distinct aromatic profiles (link pdf).  aromaticprofiles

6. The Wines

After the tasting Sergio and Cesar revealed the wines described below, and more detailed
description about their main characteristics and profiles was shared with the participants.

A. Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, 2023

Merry Edwards winery is located in the Russian River Valley, California, and is committed to sustainable practices. The winery is highly acclaimed for its Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and its portfolio also includes Chardonnay.
This 100% Sauvignon Blanc varietal is known for its crisp, bright acidity, which is balanced by a silky, creamy texture. Technical data for the 2023 vintage indicates a pH of 3.35 and an alcohol content of 14% ABV.
In terms of aromas, the wine is described as highly aromatic, with a prominent tropical fruit profile. Notes of white pineapple, passionfruit, mango, and guava are complemented by floral hints of plumeria, gardenia, and honeysuckle, as well as citrus accents like lemon curd, lime zest, and ruby red grapefruit. The palate is clean and bright with a long, refreshing finish.

B. Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2023

Ramey Wine Cellars is an iconic California winery located in Healdsburg, Sonoma County. Their Russian River Valley Chardonnay is a benchmark for the region, known for its balance of richness and bright acidity. It is a blend from several cool-climate, low-vigor vineyard sites in the Russian River Valley, primarily planted with the UC Davis Clone 4, known for its prominent acidity. The wine is celebrated for its energetic and vibrant acidity, which provides a crisp, fresh backbone and sense of structure, balancing its rich texture.
The alcohol content can be 13.5% or 14.5% ABV, depending on the specific bottle.
In terms of aromas, the nose is complex and inviting, with aromas of green apple, Meyer lemon, pear, and hints of tangerine and lime.
Subtle notes of lemon blossoms and baking spices from the oak aging add to the complexity. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and layered, with flavors of ripe stone and orchard fruit (white peach, apricot) complemented by vanilla, toasted brioche, and a distinctive minerality.
The finish is long, expressive, and showcases a beautiful balance of creamy texture and lively acidity.

C. Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaime, 2023   Rated Best Buy and Best Wine by the participant Club members.

Domaine des Chenevières is a family-run winery located in Mâcon region of Burgundy, France, with a history spanning six generations. The Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume is a classic expression of Chablis unique, mineral-driven style. Sourced from the esteemed Fourchaume vineyard, this wine benefits from the Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils that are characteristic of the region, which impart a distinctive flinty quality. The 2023 vintage is described as having a vibrant acidity that provides a fresh and lively backbone to the wine. This acidity is a key component that makes the wine feel crisp and well-structured, balancing out its richness.
In terms of aromas, the wine is noted for its complexity and finesse. It offers a
bouquet of citrus, such as lemon and lime, along with green apple, white peach, and hints of floral notes. The palate is rich and full-bodied but maintains a mineral edge, with a long, clean finish that lingers.
Alcohol content for this vintage is generally around 13.5% ABV.

D. Trimbach Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes, 2019

Maison Trimbach is one of the most esteemed and historic wineries in Alsace, France, with a legacy dating back to 1626. The Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes is a special bottling from Trimbach, a testament to the depth and complexity that old, low-yielding vines can achieve.
The 2019 vintage is characterized by its vibrant, incisive, and very precise acidity. This racy acidity provides a clean, fresh backbone that balances the wine concentration and structure.
The alcohol content for this vintage is approximately 14% ABV.
In terms of aromas, the wine is celebrated for its superb aromatic concentration. It presents a complex bouquet of citrus, including lemon, lime, and tangerine, along with notes of white flowers, white peach, and wet slate. On the palate, it is rich, full-bodied, and silky, with a long, mineral-driven finish. As it ages, classic Riesling notes of petrol and honey may emerge.

  1. CV Members Rating 

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 10 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following T able. In the final results, the Chablis Premier Cru ‘Fourchaume’, 2023 was the Best Wine and the Best Buy.

 

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