Tasting No 289 – May 26, 2026 – Israeli Wines

Tasting No 289 – May 26, 2026

A Survey of Israeli Wines

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from Israel.  We will taste wines from different regions of the country.  This is an open tasting.

Presenters:  Yacsire Cutler, Orlando Mason and Rene Gutierrez

Participants: TBA

These are the wines

  1. Golan Heights, ‘Yarden’ Chardonnay, Galilee, 2024
  2. 1848, ‘Second Generation’ Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot, Galilee, 2024
  3. Carmel, ‘Appelation’ Cabernet-Shiraz, Galilee, 2020
  4. Recanati, ‘David Vineyard Reserve’, Cabernet Sauvignon, Galilee, 2023

The Menu

  • Mussels in white wine
  • Mushroom ravioli
  • Lamb shops with roasted potatoes and vegetables
  • Cheese platter, Coffee, Tea

  1. Brief History of wine growing in Israel

Wine has a long and deep history in what is now Israel—going back to biblical times.   Its significance links religion, agriculture and trade.

Archaeological evidence shows winemaking in the region as early as 3000–4000 BCE. Grapes thrived in the Mediterranean climate, and wine became a staple of daily life and ritual. By the time of the kingdoms of Israel and Judah (around 1000 BCE), viticulture was widespread, with wine presses carved into rock and large storage jars used for distribution.   Under successive empires, especially the Roman Empire, the region became a significant wine exporter. “Gaza wine” from the southern coast was famous across the Mediterranean. During the Byzantine period (4th–7th centuries CE), production expanded further, driven partly by Christian demand for sacramental wine.  After the Muslim conquest, wine production declined significantly. Viticulture didn’t disappear entirely—grapes were still grown for food (raisins, juice), and some wine was produced for minority communities (Jewish and Christian).

Modern Israeli winemaking began in the late 1800s, largely thanks to Baron Edmond de Rothschild. He funded vineyards and wineries, most notably the establishment of Carmel Winery in 1882. His efforts introduced European grape varieties and modern techniques, laying the foundation for a commercial wine industry. Still in operation today, Carmel is the largest producer of Israeli wine and has been at the forefront of many technical and historical advances in both winemaking and Israeli history.

In the early 20th Century  the wine industry remained relatively small and focused mostly on sweet sacramental wines for religious use. A major shift began in the 1980s, when wineries adopted modern technology and global winemaking practices. The founding of Golan Heights Winery in 1983 was a turning point, emphasizing quality, terroir, and international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The wine industry of Israel is still building out its own regulations and regional identities. Therefore, the official wine regions (like an AVA or AOC) are still being adjusted and developed. There are now more than 300 wineries across different regions, producing a combined 40 million bottles a year.  The U.S. is the recipient of a majority of the country’s wine exports (55%).  Israeli wines now compete internationally and have won major awards, reflecting a blend of ancient tradition and modern innovation.

Kosher Wine. The demand for kosher wines throughout the world, particularly in the US, has underpinned the development of the Israeli wine industry over the past few decades, bringing some very New World styles and techniques to this definitively Old World country. Not all wine made in Israel is kosher, however. Modern Orthodox Jews believe that to be considered truly kosher, various products (wine and dairy among them) should be prepared only by Jews. Some Jews consider non-Jewish wine (known as “yayin nasekh”) to be kosher if it has been heated, the reason being that heated wine was not used as a religious libation in Biblical times, and its consumption is therefore not sacrilegious.

  1. Regions of production

Many parts of the country are too hot and dry to reliably produce wine of high quality. But various areas have more suitable microclimates, and are either well established or showing promise. The major winemaking zones based on key differences in soils, topography and climate are:

Galilee (HaGalil) – In the north, is considered the region most suited for viticulture. The Galilee benefits from higher elevations, cooler temperatures, marked day and night temperatures and volcanic soils.  The cooler climate helps grapes ripen slowly, preserving acidity and complexity. Noted for elegant, structured reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Syrah), and fresh whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay.) Galilee wines tend to show cool-climate balance, acidity, and layered fruit, thanks to elevation and volcanic/limestone soils.

It includes the Golan Heights, in the northeast corner, sits at some of the highest vineyard elevations in Israel. Volcanic basalt soils and snowy winters (rare in Israel) give wines a more “Old World” feel.  Noted for high-end reds, crisp whites, and even sparkling wines.  The cool climate and basalt soils contribute to wines with deep minerality and slow, even ripening.

Judean Hills – Located between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, this region terrain is characterized by rocky hills, limestone soils, high elevations. Vineyards are planted on terra rossa over limestome.  The climate features warm days and cool nights, ideal for red-Bordeaux style blends.  Noted for balanced, terroir-driven wines; both reds and whites. It is home to many boutique wineries pushing quality forward. This region accounts for about 27% of the country’s wine production.

Samson (Shomron) Region – Stretching along the coastal plain and inland foothills, the Samson region is one of the country’s largest production zones. The climate is warmer and more humid than hill regions.  Noted for fruit-forward, approachable wines.  It’s a major contributor to volume production rather than premium boutique wines.

Negev Desert – The Negev showcases modern irrigation and ancient ingenuity. Drip irrigation has made wine growing pssible combined with the revival of ancient desert viticulture techniques.  Hot days and very cool nights.  Noted for surprisingly fresh wines with good acidity.

Carmel Mountain Range – Near the Mediterranean coast, the Mount Carmel area has historic importance in Israeli winemaking, being one of the earliest modern vineyard areas (19th century revival) . This region blends history with Mediterranean style, often producing approachable wines and rediscovering older grape varieties. Noted for both everyday and higher-end wines.

 Coastal Plain – Running along the Mediterranean, the Coastal Plain includes lower-lying vineyards. The climate is hot and humid. Modern vineyards are often located in cooler microclimates.  Noted for simpler wines, often used for blends or mass production.  It account ts for about 15% of the country’s wine.

  1. Climate and grape varieties grown

Israel has a distinctly Mediterranean climate. There are two primary seasons – a hot, humid summer season running from April to October with very little precipitation and a cold, rainy winter season from late October to March. With a dry growing season, drip irrigation is needed.  Vineyard managers utilize pruning and canopy management techniques to maximize shade production from the sunlight. Harvest often takes place during the cooler temperatures of night time. The dryness of the growing seasons serves a protective barrier to many grape diseases  that thrive in damp weather and allows vineyard managers to control vigor and yields with by irrigation.

Israel grows a mix of imported grapes and a small but growing set of indigenous varieties that are being rediscovered. The combination is part of what makes Israeli wine distinctive, together with the climate diversity, high UV plus dry conditions and the use of many grape varieties

Imported grapes dominate most vineyards.  Red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache.  White grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Viognier.  The following Mediterranean varieties are gaining popularity because they suit Israel’s heat: Carignan, Mourvèdre, Marselan (modern cross- Cabernet x Grenache), and Argaman (Israeli-developed red grape-Carignan × Souzao.)  There is also a movement reviving the use of  indigenous/ancient red and white grapes with roots going back centuries, such as Baladi Asmar, Bittuni, Dabouki, Hamdani/Marawi, and Jandali.

A primary concern in Israeli wine production is maintaining acid levels to balance the naturally high sugars that the warm climate of the region produces. Vineyards at higher elevations, as opposed to the lower coastal plains, have more consistently produced wines with the necessary acid balance. Cabernet Sauvignon has shown the greatest aging potential thus far. The smooth texture and ripe tannins of Israeli Merlot has increased that wine’s popularity in the market. Chardonnay grown in Israel has shown itself to be highly reflective of terroir and of the particular characteristics of vineyard soils. It is also the primary grape used in Israeli sparkling wine production made according to the “methode champenoise.”

 

  1. Information on the Wines

–Wine # 1.  Golan Heights, ‘Yarden’ Chardonnay, Galilee, 2024

The Producer: The Golan Heigths Winery was established in 1983 and produces four labels with a range of varieties and styles: Yarden, Gamla, Hermon and Golan.  The Winery maintains about 630 hectares of grape-yielding vineyards. It has planted some 20 varieties of grapes in 28 vineyards divided into roughly 450 blocks, at elevations ranging from 400 to almost 1,200 meters. Each vineyard block is mapped and cataloged, with constant monitoring of its various parameters including soil conductivity, growth, water condition in the vine, and more. The blocks are harvested separately, and their wines are stored separately in stainless steel tanks in order to maintain their identity and uniqueness until final blending.  From this large selection of small blocks, winemakers can choose the most appropriate blocks for the relevant wine. Single-vineyard wines are produced only in vintages in which grape quality is exceptional and the vineyard’s terroir is clearly expressed in the wine.

Golan Heights Winery and its subsidiary Galil Mountain Winery both received the first international certification for sustainable vineyards under the LODI RULES program, which is considered meticulous and comprehensive.

The Wine: A well-balanced, complex Chardonnay with ripe pear, apple, pineapple and citrus fruit notes layered with oak and vanilla characters; rich and buttery with a long finish.

Vintage: 2024

Region: Galilee / Golan Heights, known for volcanic terroir; elevation 3,900 feet.

Grape: 100% Chardonay

Winemaking: Barrel fermented and aged for seven months with partial malolactic fermentation.

ABV: 14.5%

Tasting notes: Fresh lemon, ripe pear, green apple, and tropical fruits. Finish is rounded out by notes of apricot, cream, and French oak.

Pairings: Complements grilled chicken, seafood dishes, and creamy  dishes.

–Wine # 2. 1848, ‘Second Generation’, Cabernet-Merlot, Galilee, 2024

The Producer: 1848 Winery is named to honor the beginning of modern winemaking in Israel by its parent Zion Winery in 1848. 1848 Winery celebrates the generations of the Galina-Shor family. It took eight generations to have a first quality wine that is well known in the region as well as the world. From the first generation that purchased grapes from the local market and made wine that were sold in small barrels. Nearly all the wines were sweet. The first evidence of the new family profession was shown in the census commissioned by Moses Montefiore in 1849. The eighth Generation under Yossi Shor founded the 1848 Winery in 2006, which became recognized for high quality in international markets. He invested in quality vineyards in the finest wine growing regions, in particular the Galilee and Judean Hills. They began aiming for quality at all costs, updated winery equipment to state of the art levels, and employed a French born, Bordeaux trained winemaker.  The quality wines won awards and recognition on the  international stage. The 1848 wines have gained the respect of wine lovers and connoisseurs alike, both in Israel and around the world.

The Wine:

Vintage: 2024

Region: Galilee, grapes from the Galil and the Jerusalem Hills.

Grape composition. Cabernet Sauvignon 60% and Merlot 40%

Vinification: The grapes come to the winery in the early morning and transferred from the crusher into refrigerated stainless steel tanks. After a short maceration keeping the grape juice on its lees, the fresh grape juice was separated and  fermented in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 23 degrees Celsius, in order to preserve the fresh fruit flavors.

Aging: Aged in European oak barrels for 10 months. After this period the final blend was made, emphasizing the velvetiness of the Merlot.

Alcohol: 14%

Tasting notes: Nose – blackcurrant and plum red fruit, green pepper, blackberries and vanilla and tobacco in the background; Mouth – full fruit flavor and long finish; Color – Deep red crimson color with bright purple hues. The wine has freshness and balance, medium body and a long, complex finish.

Pairing: Pasta Bolognese, sausages, blue cheese.

–Wine # 3.  Carmel, ‘Appellation’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Galilee, 2020

The Producer: Carmel Winery is a historic wine producer that was founded in 1882 by Baron Edmond James de Rothchild. Carmel Winery manufactures mainly wine, brandy and grape juice and it is the prime producer of wine in Israel, with nearly half of the Israeli wine market share, and one of the largest wine producers in the Eastern Mediterranean.  It is also the first and oldest exporter of wine, brandy and grape juice in the country, and the largest producer of kosher wine in the world. The company holds the two largest wineries in Israel (Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov), as well as two new smaller ones: Yatir Winery (50% ownership) and the Kayoumi Winery.  In addition, the company owns 1,400 hectares (3,472 acres) of vineyards in Israel. Carmel’s production reaches 15 million bottles per year and its profit from export is US$5 million from 40 countries.

The Wine: Part of the ‘Appellation’ Regional Series representing the best vineyard regions of Israel. Wines of this series are produced from classic grape varieties harvested in vineyards from selected wine regions. This wine is a dry red blend, primarily produced from grapes grown in the Upper Galilee region and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. It is known for a full-bodied, deep purple profile featuring blackberry, dark plum, spice, and chocolate notes.

Vintage: 2020

Region: Upper Galilee, Israel

Grape composition: Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz

Aging: 12 months in French oak barrels

Alcohol: 14%–15% ABV

Flavor Profile: Full-bodied, featuring blackberry, black pepper, spice, and oaky notes

Pairing: Pairs well with grilled meats, hearty stews, and roasted vegetables

–Wine # 4. Recanati, ‘David Vineyard Reserve’, Cabernet Sauvignon, Galilee, 2023

Producer: Recanati Winery was founded in 2000 and it produces young red and white blends under its ‘Yasmin’ label, single varietals under its ‘Recanati’ and ‘Reserve’ labels, and a ‘Special Reserve’. All grapes are hand-harvested, two-thirds originating in Recanati’s high-altitude Manara vineyards in the Upper Galilee and the remainder from vineyards planted in the clay-rich soil of the Jezreel Valley. The newly built Recanati winery, opened in 2022, obtains its grapes from some of the area’s high-altitude vineyards, which enjoy a climate similar to that of California’s Napa Valley. Warm days and contrastingly cool nights, together with chalky-gravelly soil conditions and limited rainfall, create an ideal environment for this variety.

The Wine: Summary: Red wine from Israel’s Upper Galilee region. It is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon known for a full-bodied profile with notes of plum, raspberry, black cherry, and spices.

Vintage: 2023

Region: David’s Vineyard, Upper Galilee, Israel

Variety: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Vinification:  Grapes are harvested by hand from late September through mid-October. Immediately following the crush, the must is chilled to 60ºF in route to fermentation vats.

Aging: 15 months in French oak

Alcohol: 14% ABV

Tasting Notes: Color is vibrant violet; aromas of ripe black cherry.

Pairing: Pairs well with grilled meats, roasts, and hard cheeses.

The wine is considered to have a good aging potential, capable of lasting a decade or more.

CV Members Rating (TBA after the tasting)

References:

https://www.golanwines.co.il/

https://1848.co.il/

https://www.carmelwines.co.il/

https://www.recanati-winery.com

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

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American Wine on a Precipice

   50 Years After the ‘Judgment of Paris,’ American Wine Is Once Again on a Precipice

Illustration by Chris W. Kim

In 2011, clubvino1.com featured a post about the film Bottle Shock, including a link to the full movie on YouTube. This film offers an entertaining and insightful look at how the historic “Judgment of Paris” unfolded. The post also highlighted another classic, Sideways, which—according to wine folklore—contributed to the sudden decline in Merlot consumption.

No wine education can truly be considered complete without watching these two films with full attention. And did I mention they’re both genuinely funny?

Our former Club del Vino President Juan Luis Colaiacovo shared this interesting article on the trajectory of the wines of California. After the abstract the full article for your enjoyment.

 

Abstract: The Legacy and Future of the Judgment of Paris

The 1976 Judgment of Paris stands as a pivotal moment in viticultural history, where California wines unexpectedly triumphed over prestigious French labels in a blind tasting. This event dismantled the myth of European superiority, providing the Napa Valley and the broader American wine industry with the credibility and identity needed to spark a decades-long “golden age.”

Fifty years later, the industry faces a new, more complex set of challenges. While the 20th century was defined by a rivalry with the “Old World,” today’s winemakers must navigate:

  • Economic Volatility: Oversupply issues leading to the removal of thousands of acres of vines.
  • Shifting Consumer Habits: Increased competition from non-alcoholic beverages and a move away from the “bigger is better” (high-alcohol, oak-heavy) style of the Robert Parker era.
  • External Pressures: Climate change, tariff wars, and geopolitical instability.

A “1976 Redo” tasting held in March 2026 underscored a shift toward independent, small-scale producers favoring a “less is more” approach. The results mirrored the original event—American wines won three out of four categories—highlighting the continued excellence of domestic viticulture. As the industry reflects on its 50th anniversary, it stands at a critical inflection point: the need to return to the innovation and convention-challenging mindset of 1976 to ensure relevance in an increasingly perilous global market.

 50 Years After the ‘Judgment of Paris,’ American Wine Is Once Again on a Precipice

By Christina Pickard               Wine Enthusiast Magazine       April 2026

 

In the 1970s, French wines were revered in America, but only by an elite few. This same class of wine lovers also considered their homegrown offerings to be something of a joke.

Then, on May 24th 1976, a blind tasting competition in France dubbed “The Judgment of Paris” pitted northern Californian wines against French equivalents. California triumphed, propelling the wines, their producers, and Napa Valley onto the world wine stage, while proving to both global critics and domestic drinkers alike that the United States was capable of fine wine greatness.

The event kickstarted a golden age of vine plantings and wine-growing in California, reviving an industry that had for decades struggled to recover from the blows of early 20th-century recession, war, and Prohibition.

“[The Judgment] opened the door for great wine to be from anywhere,” says Jon Bonné, author of The New French Wine and The New California Wine.

50 years later, California—and American wine in general—face a new set of challenges that are far more complicated than a rivalry between “Old World” and “New World.”

A half century on from the tasting that changed the fate of American wine, the industry is primed for a new kind of judgment, one that, however it shakes out, will once again determine the future of homegrown wine.

Just like five decades ago, many of California’s winemakers are struggling to get their wines into Americans’ glasses. The oversupply in 2024-25 led to nearly 40,000 acres of California’s vines being ripped out. 3,000 of these acres were in Napa, equating to 7% of the region’s total plantings, according to a recent study.

Climate changetariff warshealth debates, and geopolitical instability all contribute to today’s perfect storm. And as beverage choices increase, the competition is no longer just between Europe and the nations it colonized. Instead, it’s between wine and other alcoholic drinks (not to mention the N/A ones). The sandbox has never been more crowded.

Meanwhile, the sheer diversity of wine styles and overall quality have never been greater.

“If I sit down at a wine bar in San Francisco, I can choose between biodynamic Bordeaux pét-nat made in Libourne, and qvevri-macerated Friulano from the Sierra Foothills,” says Bonné. “I’d say we have moved into a very different and more interesting world.”

The world may be more interesting, but also more perilous. A half century on from the tasting that changed the fate of American wine, the industry is primed for a new kind of judgment, one that, however it shakes out, will once again determine the future of homegrown wine.

A 20th-Century Reckoning

In the years leading up to 1976, California was still struggling to re-establish its wine industry after Prohibition had decimated it.

“The American wine business in the 1950s was literally dying in the vine. The number of California wineries fell by more than one third between 1950 and 1967,” George M. Taber wrote in his 2005 book, Judgment of Paris. (Taber, in fact, was the sole journalist present at the Judgment tasting.) “Only a very small part of the population drank wine with meals, and when they wanted good wine, they looked to France.”

1976 marked America’s bicentennial anniversary. It was the year Jimmy Carter was elected president, and Barbara Walters became the first female anchorwoman for an evening news program. Steve Jobs founded Apple, Bill Gates founded Microsoft just the year prior, and American consumerism charged forth.

“As the U.S. started to become ‘the great consumer,’ we began to latch onto wine,” says Patrick Cappiello, the winemaker-owner of Monte Rio Cellars in Sonoma County and a former New York sommelier. “We followed the lead of the British, and so Bordeaux was one of the first and most important regions [for Americans]. Burgundy followed on.”

Viticultural and winemaking techniques had been quietly improving throughout the 1950s and ‘60s, with help from the Department of Viticulture and Enology at University of California Davis. Technological advancements like controlled malolactic fermentation and micro-filtration were actually ahead of the French, according to Taber. By 1976, there were around 100 wineries established in Napa Valley. Word was out—albeit only at a whisper—that the Californians were making some pretty decent wine.

Enter Steven Spurrier, an English wine merchant and owner of the English-speaking Parisian wine school, Académie Du Vin, and his trusty right-hand woman, American Patricia Gallagher. The pair decided to stir up business by hosting a blind tasting between the two nations, timed with the bicentennial anniversary. Spurrier travelled to California to choose the six Chardonnays and six Cabernet Sauvignons from 11 boutique producers that French judges would blind-taste beside top Bordeaux wines from the likes of Château Mouton-Rothschild and Château Haut-Brion.

California won.

Taber released a Time article a few weeks later announcing America’s triumph over its French counterparts. He titled it “The Judgment of Paris,” a nod to the Greek mythological event that sparked The Trojan War. The name stuck and the two California wineries whose wines won—Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon (only their second and first releases, respectively)—became overnight successes. So did other high-ranking California wineries like Ridge Vineyards and Spring Mountain Vineyard. In fact, all of Napa rode the wave.

“It is no coincidence that the first vintage of ‘Opus One,’ the Napa Valley joint venture between Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi, was 1979, just three years later,” Spurrier himself wrote in a September 2020 article on the Académie du Vin Library website, just six months before his death in 2021.

“[The Judgement] gave Napa Valley real direction, including us,” says Marcus Notaro, Stag’s Leap’s current head winemaker. “Where are we going to be most successful? In Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. It gave us identity, direction, and confidence that we were on the right track.”

Matthew Crafton, the current head winemaker and president at Chateau Montelena, agrees: “It gave credibility to a region that hadn’t yet earned it in the eyes of the world and opened the door for American wines to be considered among the best anywhere.”

The Judgment was a perfect storm. It reset the tumblers at a moment when the French had let down their guard, the Californians were surging, and Americans still viewed France as a gastronomic north star. So that set the conditions for homegrown wines to find their market.

Jon bonné, author of The New French Wine and The New California Wine.

France, of course, had been making wine since the Greek and Roman times, with the transition from shed to chateau taking place in the 19th century. But the ‘70s were tough times, especially for Bordeaux: overproduction, poor vintage conditions, and a general complacency, according to Bonné, led to a decline in quality, while California’s star was rising.

“The sheer talent and quality of that era [in California] was extraordinary, while Bordeaux, especially, had fallen into a deep decline in the 1970s,” he says. “The Judgment was a perfect storm. It reset the tumblers at a moment when the French had let down their guard, the Californians were surging, and Americans still viewed France as a gastronomic north star. So that set the conditions for homegrown wines to find their market.”

The following five decades saw massive transformation for California, especially for Napa, which, post-Judgment, firmly established itself as America’s vinous center of gravity: an industry with a $13 billion economic impact.

“The lines have shifted so much, and been reset so much, since [1976],” says Bonné.

A Modern Day Rematch

It was while watching the 2008 Hollywood movie that fictionalized the Judgment, Bottle Shock, that Patrick Cappiello came up with the idea for a “1976 Redo” tasting.

Cappiello hoped the event could bring attention to small, independent American producers, many of whom currently face a similar challenge to the one 50 years ago—many Americans still believe European wines are superior to homegrown ones.

He also had another motive, which was to showcase a new wave of Californian wines—those made closer to the style of those in the 1970s.

“As a U.S. winemaker, you have to jump over [the Euro-centric] hurdle, which is hard enough,” says Cappiello. “But then there’s an even bigger, dumber hurdle which is the fact that the production of wine in California—especially in Napa Valley—for around three decades experienced the Robert Parker effect.”

The “bigger is better” influence of critics like Robert Parker and of recently deceased global wine consultant Michel Rolland—who pushed both Napa and Bordeaux into making riper, oakier, more alcoholic wines—lingers in California.

For the last several years, Cappiello has made it his mission to encourage people to buy American-made wines, particularly those from small producers making “pre-Parker” wines.

“There are less and less of these big brands that produce oversaturated, high alcohol, heavily oaked wines—they’re all falling out of favor,” Cappiello says.

“Those wineries are closing or they’re reducing stock or changing their methods to try and go back to an old style. It’s a conversation you hear in Napa all the time: ‘I want to go back to making wine the way they were doing it in the ‘70s.’”

It took Cappiello two years—and the help of wine professionals on both coasts, including winemaker Pax Mahle, media entrepreneur Josh Entman, author and sommelier Vanessa Price, and wine broker Ryan Mills Knapp—to make the “1976 Redo” tasting a reality. Cappiello decided to once again include Chardonnay and Cabernet, but two new varietal categories were added: Chenin Blanc and Syrah.

“We got hundreds of wineries and thousands of submissions for the first round of tasting,” says Cappiello, who did not include his Monte Rio wines in the lineup. Eight wine professionals whittled that down to five wines per category, to be judged in the final round against well-known French bottles.

There are really two paths forward. One is to remain dynamic, forward-looking, and willing to challenge convention—the same mindset that made the Judgment of Paris possible in the first place. The other is to become more static, more risk-averse, and ultimately less relevant over time. I’m optimistic because I think Napa, at its best, chooses the former. But that outcome isn’t guaranteed. Success is fragile, and it has to be earned continuously.

Matthew Crafton, head winemaker and president at Chateau Montelena

The Redo took place on March 24th 2026 in New York City, two months shy of the exact date of the original Judgment. Twelve judges from several sides of the wine industry—proctored by Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltierblind tasted the ten total wines from each category. Once again, an American wine placed first in all categories except Cabernet, where Bordeaux’s Château Latour 2017 triumphed.

The rest of the winning wines were all from small West Coast producers, made in the “less is more” style that Cappiello champions: 2022 Chenin from Las Jaras Wines in Mendocino, California; 2021 Flaneur Wines Chardonnay from Oregon’s Willamette Valley; and 2021 Scar of the Sea Wines Syrah from San Luis Obispo Coast, California. Cappiello hopes the “Redo” will shine a spotlight on them—and the wines of other American producers, too, who, in these challenging times, could use all the support they can get.

“In the end, if you’re not buying wines from this country, you’re adding to the problem of us not being able to produce things,” Cappiello quips. “We may be the ‘great consumer,’ but what do we really produce? Wine is something that we do produce in every one of the 50 states.”

Another Inflection Point for the Wine World

Beyond the Redo, various events around the country will honor the world’s most famous blind tasting. Stag’s Leap will open ten of the 30 bottles that remain of its victorious 1973 Cabernet at various commemorative occasions, and Spurrier’s own Académie du Vin Library will release a book titled The Judgement of Paris: The 1976 Event That Shook the Wine World, featuring old photos and quotes from the world’s top wine professionals, on May 15.

The timing of the Judgment’s anniversary celebrations seems apt. As the wine industry rises to meet some of the toughest challenges it’s ever faced, the David versus Goliath narrative of ’76 provides hope and introspection.

Montelena’s Crafton believes that Napa is at another inflection point. “There are really two paths forward,” he says. “One is to remain dynamic, forward-looking, and willing to challenge convention—the same mindset that made the Judgment of Paris possible in the first place. The other is to become more static, more risk-averse, and ultimately less relevant over time. I’m optimistic because I think Napa, at its best, chooses the former. But that outcome isn’t guaranteed. Success is fragile, and it has to be earned continuously.”

The time is ripe for another wine awakening. Only this time, the ball is in home court.

 

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Tasting No 288 – April 28, 2026: Turkish Wine

Tasting No 288 – April 28, 2026

Turkish Wine: Ancient Roots, Indigenous Gems and Global Parallels

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

Anatolia (the Asian part of modern Turkey) is the true cradle of wine, home to the earliest domestication of the wine grape (Vitis vinifera). While regions like Georgia are famous for ancient winery evidence, southeastern Anatolia and the Taurus Mountains show winemaking traces going back 7,000–9,000 years (Neolithic period). Since the 1990’s, a boutique revolution has shifted Turkey’s focus from industrial quantity to high-quality, terroir-driven indigenous grapes. This tasting bridges that ancient heritage with modern refinement, exploring a “familiar but exotic” profile rooted in the world’s oldest traditions. 

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Sergio Ardila, Cesar Falconi and Jaime Estupiñan

Participants: TBA

 

These are the wines:

  • Doluca, ‘DLC’ Narince, 2022
  • Chamlija, Kalecik Karasi, 2023
  • Kavaklidere, ‘Prestige’ Bogazkere, 2019
  • Kavaklidere, ‘Selection’ Öküzgözü-Boğazkere, 2021.

The Menu and Paring: 

  • Mediterranean Citrus Calamari Salad (pairing with Prestige Narince. The oak-influenced body matches the char of the squid while the citrus notes echo the dressing.
  • Mushroom Risotto (pairing with Kalecik Karası. Earthy undertones and bright acidity harmonize with the rich cream and mushrooms.
  • Braised Beef Short Ribs in Red Wine Reduction (pairing with Bogazkere and the blend Öküzgözü-Boğazkere. The vibrant fruit and acidity of the “Bull’s Eye” Boğazkere cut through the rich fat of the ribs. 
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

 

  1. Historical Context: The Cradle of Viticulture

Turkish wine history precedes the famous European traditions. Consider the role of Anatolia relative to other ancient powers: 

The Hittite Legacy (2000 BCE) 

“Hittite Legacy” is a cornerstone of Anatolian viticulture, as the Hittites (who ruled Central Anatolia roughly between 1600–1180 B.C.E.) were among the first to move wine from a simple agricultural product to a strictly regulated commodity. The Hittites had advanced laws protecting vineyards. Turkey was effectively regulating wine quality thousands of years before the French AOC System was conceived 

The Hittite Legacy: Vineyard Protection Laws

In the Hittite law code (found on cuneiform clay tablets), the second major tablet was titled “If a Vine” (after its opening words). This highlights how central viticulture was to their society.

  • Property Protection: The laws were incredibly specific about theft and damage. If someone stole vines from a vineyard, they were required to pay a steep fine in silver. If a person set fire to a vineyard, the law mandated that they replant the vines and pay a fine to the owner for the lost harvest.
  • Ownership and Social Status: Vineyards were often used as a form of payment or reward for military and administrative service. The laws protected the “right of use” for these lands, ensuring that the state or a neighbor couldn’t arbitrarily seize a productive vineyard. 
  • Regulations and Wine Quality: The Hittites didn’t just protect the land; they regulated the product itself to ensure it was suitable for both the King and the Gods.
  • Religious Standards: Wine was a primary offering in Hittite religious ceremonies. Because it was “the drink of the gods,” there were strict purity standards. Historical texts mention “pure wine,” “sweet wine,” and “new wine,” suggesting they had a classification system based on the style and quality of the press.
  • Pricing Controls: The Hittite laws established fixed prices for various agricultural goods, including wine and raisins. This was an early form of market regulation designed to prevent price gouging and ensure the stability of the wine trade, which was a major part of the Anatolian economy. (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), established in 1935, is the gold standard for wine regulation. It was created to combat fraud and ensure that a “Bordeaux” actually came from Bordeaux and was made according to local tradition; the Italian System: DOC and DOCG modeled after the French AOC, was established in 1963. It is slightly more layered to account for the massive variety of indigenous Italian grapes. )

Native and Domesticated Grapes in Turkey

Turkey is widely considered the “homeland of the vine” (Vitis vinifera), specifically the region spanning Eastern Turkey and the Caucasus. 

  1. Production, Terroir and Wine Tourism

Turkey ranks fifth in the world for vineyard area (~410,000 hectares), yet only 2–3% of grapes are fermented into wine (approx. 65 million liters annually); the rest are for table grapes and raisins.  As a comparison, production in 2024 – in billion of bottles – was: Italy 5.88, France 4.81, Spain 4.13, Argentina 1.45, and Chile 1.24.  

Regional Breakdown & Tourism Routes 

  • Thrace & Marmara (Marmara Wine Route): Maritime climate influenced by three seas. The “Thrace Wine Route” links boutique producers near the Strandja Mountains. 
  • Grapes: Papaskarası (red), Yapıncak (white). 
  • Producers: Chamlija, Suvla, Barbare. 
  • Aegean Coast (Urla Vineyard Route): Mediterranean climate; the “Tuscany of Turkey” with stone chateaus and high-end gastronomy. 
  • Grapes: Çalkarası (red), Bornova Misketi (white)
  • Producers: Kavaklıdere (Pendore), Sevilen, Urla Şarapçılık. 
  • Central Anatolia (Cappadocia Route): Continental/Volcanic soils. Features tastings in rock-carved caves (e.g., Argos resort tunnels holding 75,000+ bottles). 
  • Grapes: Kalecik Karası (red), Emir (white). 
  • Producers: Vinkara, Turasan, Kocabağ. 
  • Eastern / Southeastern Anatolia: Harsh continental climate; ancestral home of the powerful “Bull’s Eye.” 
  • Grapes: Öküzgözü, Boğazkere (reds), Narince (white)
  • Producers: Kayra. 

  1. Global Parallels and Price Comparison

Turkish wines share structural characteristics with major global regions, and Turkish offer a “familiar but exotic” profile that bridges the gap between major European styles: 

France: Kalecik Karasi is often called the “Pinot Noir of the East” for its light body, red fruit, and elegance. Narince is frequently compared to Chardonnay because it handles oak aging beautifully and has a creamy texture. 

Italy: Boğazkere (meaning “throat burner”) has the aggressive tannins and structural power of a Nebbiolo (Barolo) or an Aglianico. Emir shares the mineral, high-acid, and “crisp” profile of a Gavi or Etna Bianco

Spain: -Öküzgözü (meaning “Bull’s Eye”) is juicy and bright like a Mencía or a fruit forward Tempranillo from Rioja Alavesa. 

Price Comparison: Prestige Turkish bottles ($40–$95) sit in a price bracket similar to Napa Reds or Rioja Reservas, offering complexity comparable to European “Cru” wines. 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Doluca ‘DLC’ Narince, 2022

– The Producer: Doluca is one of the oldest and long established companies of Turkey, being in operation for over 90 years. The Estate was founded as Maison Vinikol in 1926 at Galata, which was the base for today’s Doluca. The founder Nihat Kutman produced his first wines from Yapincak  and Karalahana grape varieties. Located in mid-northern Anatolia, Doluca Wines operates 200 hectares and produce annually 14 million bottles. 

The wine: 

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Narince 
  • Region: Tokat, Anatolia Mid-Northern Region
  • Fermentation: Generally stainless steel, which preserves the grape’s natural a cidity and vibrant fruitiness.
  • Alcohol: 13% 
  • Awards: The 2022 vintage received a Silver medal at the International Wine Challenge 

Winemaker notes: During the production of DLC Narince wine, only free run juice fermented under low temperatures was used. As a result, next to the floral and fruity flavors of this young wine, the narcissus jonquil flower, jasmine, grapefruit and orange aromas are felt at the forefront with its aromatic, smooth and crisp character.

Tasting notes: A delicate floral approach, speaking of linden, narcissus, chrysanthemum and lime. Swirl and more of that floral arrangement is revealed along with yellow pollen and a crispy white nectarine. Palate is smooth and gentle, with a fine line of acidity that slowly increases toward the end. The aftertaste pulls this all together with a lingering palate of lemon zest. (

Aromas/Palate: Lemon zest, green apple, white peach, white pepper, and hints of tropical fruit. This vintage is recognized for its crisp, clean character and high quality for its price point, representing a good example of the indigenous Turkish Narince grape. 

Best parings: Feta, goat cheese, Mediterranean salads, and grilled fish. 

 

Wine #2. Chamlija, Kalecik Karasi, 2023

– The Producer: The Chamlija Family Estate was founded in 2000 by Mustafa Çamlıca. While the family has been farming in the Thrace region since 1935, Mustafa (the third generation) led the transition to high-end viticulture, with the first vintage released in 2011. The Estate is located in Kırklareli, Thrace, specifically the Strandja (Istranca) Mountains region. This area is unique for being influenced by three seas: the Black Sea, the Marmara Sea, and the Aegean. They currently cultivate approximately 130 hectares (roughly 320 acres) across 58 different parcels. Their vineyards are among the highest density in the Balkans, ranging from 5,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare to encourage deep rooting and terroir expression.

Chamlija is a boutique-scale producer focused on “terroir wines.” Their focus is on high quality over mass volume. They produce Approximately 150,000 – 200,000 bottles yearly and export about 30% to over 15 countries, including the United States, United Kingdom, and Germany, positioning themselves as a leading face of the Turkish wine renaissance.

– The Wine: 

  • Vintage: 2023
  • Grape: 100% Kalecik Karası 
  • Region: Aegean  
  • Fermentation: cold maceration before fermentation to maximize color and aromatic extraction without harsh tannins. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks.
  • Aging: Unlike their heavier “Thracian” blends, this wine is aged for approximately 6 to 8 months, using a mix of stainless steel to preserve fruit and used French oak barrels to add subtle structure. Bottled in early 2024, following a light filtration to maintain the wine’s “vibrant” character.
  • Alcohol: 14.2% ABV 
  • Awards: Gold Medal at Balkans International Wine Competition (2025) 

Tasting notes: Color: Bright, translucent cherry red or light ruby. Nose: Dominated by fresh raspberry, strawberry, and a distinctive “oriental spice” (aniseed and cinnamon). Aromas: Vibrant nose dominated by red berries (strawberry, raspberry, and red currant), and a distinctive “oriental spice” (aniseed and cinnamon). You may also detect floral hints of violet and a subtle touch of white pepper or cocoa. Palate: Light to medium-bodied with soft, velvety tannins and a refreshing acidity. It has a smooth, “easy-drinking” character but maintains a persistent finish.

Wine #3. Kavaklidere, ‘Prestige’ Bogazkere, 2019

– The Producer: Kavaklidere winery is the most historic name in Turkish wine, deeply tied to the “Hittite Legacy” as they were the first to modernize these ancient traditions for the 20th century. Founded in 1929 by Cenap and his wife Sevda in Ankara. It was the first private wine producer in the Republic of Turkey. While headquartered in Ankara (Akyurt), the company operates three separate production facilities across Turkey’s most important terroirs: Ankara-Akyurt (Central Anatolia), Cappadocia-Gülşehir, and Pendore (Aegean). They own approximately 652 hectares (roughly 1,611 acres) across seven different sub-regions.
 The winery produces approximately 19.5 million liters annually. Kavaklıdere is a global ambassador for Turkish wine, exporting 20% of its production to over 30 countries, including major hubs in Germany, Belgium, and the United States.

Kavaklidere uses a tiered branding structure to categorize its extensive portfolio, ranging from approachable daily wines to highly structured, age-worthy selections. It mirrors the “Quality Regulations” found in Hittite history, showing how a modern producer creates its own internal standards: 

– The “Prestige” Series (the Flagship) represents the pinnacle of Kavaklıdere’s winemaking, focusing specifically on highlighting the potential of Turkey’s native grapes. Grapes are sourced from specific, high-quality vineyards (like Diyarbakır for Boğazkere or Cappadocia for Narince), that undergo meticulous hand-harvesting, longer maceration, and extended aging in French oak barrels (usually 9–12 months, aiming to produce “terroir-driven” wines with high aging potential (often 5–10+ years);

– The “Pendore” Series (Single Vineyard/Estate) is focused on a specific estate in the Aegean region (near Manisa). This Pendore vineyard uses high-density planting and “limited yield” practices to ensure concentrated flavors. Often features international varieties (Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon) as well as the native Öküzgözü. 

– The “Selection” Series (The Classic), introduced in 1987 to celebrate the winery’s 60th anniversary, is perhaps their most famous “Classic” tier. It focuses on the traditional blending of Turkish grapes -specifically the Öküzgözü-Boğazkere blend, designed to be elegant, consistent year-over-year, and representative of the “Turkish Style”.

– The “Egeo” Series (Regional Excellence), focuses on the Aegean region’s unique microclimates, which are influenced by sea breezes and higher altitudes. These wines are often more “modern” and fruit-forward, and include international varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc.

– The “Ancyra” Series (Premium Varietal). Named after the ancient name for Ankara, this is a “Premium” tier that emphasizes the pure characteristics of a single grape variety. These are typically fresh, easy-to-drink, and usually see little to no oak. They are meant to be enjoyed young. 

– The “Angora” and “Çankaya/Yakut” Series (Daily/Table Wine), are entry-level wines widely available and recognized in Turkey; they are multi-regional blends designed for immediate consumption. 

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Grape: 100% Boğazkere.
  • Region: Diyarbakır,  Southeastern Anatolia
  • Harvest and Fermentation: Grapes are hand-collected at optimum maturity, typically in late September to early October. Long maceration period (skin contact) to extract the deep color and robust tannins characteristic of the variety. Fermentation is temperature controlled.
  • Aging: typically aged for 9 to 11 months in French oak barrels (mostly 225L) to soften the aggressive tannins and add complexity.
  • 13.5%-14% ABV

Tastng Notes: Boğazkere (literally translated as “throat burner”) is known for its high tannins and power. The high levels of “grippy” tannins (the “throat burner” effect) and the full body of the wine require a solid acidic backbone to keep the wine from feeling flabby or heavy. Color: deep, dark ruby with garnet tints. Nose: complex and intense. You will find dark fruit (blackberry, black cherry), dried red fruits, and distinct “savory” notes like leather, tobacco, and black pepper. Palate: full-bodied with “well-balanced strong tannins.” It is a structural wine that feels heavy and “grippy” in the mouth, ending with a long, spicy finish.



Food Pairing: because Boğazkere is so tannic, it requires fat and protein to soften the palate: meats, such as grilled red meats (lamb is the classic Turkish pairing), spicy kebabs, or beef brisket; hearty, slow-cooked stews with rich sauces; heese: Aged, strong cheese like Parmesan, Manchego, or the Turkish Eski Kaşar

Wine #4. Kavaklidere, ‘Selection’ Öküzgözü-Boğazkere 2021

– The Producer: Same as wine #3.

– The Wine: 

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Grape: Blend of Öküzgözü for elegance and Boğazkere for robust structure;
  • Region: Mid-Eastern Anatolia
  • Fermentation: long maceration, temperature-controlled malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks; . 
  • Aging: approximately 10 months in French oak barrels, followed by an additional one year in the bottle
  • 14%  ABV

 

  • Awards: Bronze Medal at the 2024 International Wine & Spirit Competition 

Tasting notes: Aromas: A complex nose featuring dried red fruits, plum, and black cherry, layered with notes of spice, tobacco, and leather. Palate: Bold and structured with persistent flavors of cherry and cassis. It is known for its strong, ripe tannins and integrated oak influence from aging. 

Food Pairing: Pairs exceptionally well with spicy sauced red meat, T-bone steak, grilled lamb, or hard yellow cheeses.

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

References:

McGovern, Patrick E. Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture.

Robinson, Jancis. The Oxford Companion to Wine.

Öğütoğlu, Taner. Turkish Wine Guide.

Understanding the Indigenous Grapes of Turkey. The Wine Advocate.

Anatolia: The Birthplace of Wine. Wine Enthusiast.

McNeil Karen. The wine bible. Third edition.

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 Tasting # 287 – March 31, 2026 – Tasting Spätburgunder  

Tasting #287 – March 31, 2026    Tasting   Spätburgunder  

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The  objective of this tasting is to compare Spätburgunder from three different regions of Germany. Spätburgunder is the name of Pinot Noir in Germany.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Erico Silva, Nick Marzella and Ricardo Santiago

Participants:  S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; G. García; E and N. Gochicoa; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; L.Uechi; G. Vega; and M. Silva (guest).

These are the wines:

  1. Rebholz – Spatburgunder R 2021
  2. Meyer Näkel Spätburgunder 2022
  3. Meyer Näkel Spätburgunder Blue Slate 2022
  4. Thörle Spätburgunder 2022.

  1. Menu

  • Insalata di Caprese
  • Gnocchi “au-Gratin” in a Ragu sauce topped with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese
  • Salmone alla Griglia with olive oil and lemon sauce
  • Dessert, coffee and tea

 

  1. Wine Industry in Germany

              Overview

Germany cultivates a focused set of grapes varieties in comparison with France, Italy, and Spain.

Historically, Germany is at the limits of ‘Vitis vinifera’s viability in the northern hemisphere. Few varieties could be cultivated due to its temperature, frost, and topography.

More than 130 wine grape varieties are officially allowed for cultivation. However, only about two dozen varieties are commercially or culturally significant.

Nowadays, about 103,390 hectares are under vine, being 68% white grape varieties and 32% black grape varieties.

German Wine Classification

Germany’s national classification system was recently reformed to improve clarity and transparency. Those reforms have full effect this year (2026).

The 1971 Wine Law — “Ripeness Rules”

For most of the 20th century, in a marginal region like Germany, the essential question was: How ripe can grapes become each short, cool vintage? German wine classification was set up to reward growers who achieved peak ripeness.

German legislators enshrined this paradigm in the 1971 German Wine Law. It pointedly pinned quality to sweetness or potential alcohol but brushed aside terroir and the elements of viticulture and vinification — historic sites, yields, additions, élevage — which contribute to the precise expression of terroir.

The 1971 law set up classifications for Germany’s basic wines, Qualitätsweine, or “quality wines,” and Prädikat: wines with “specific attributes” that were required to meet increasingly selective criteria, mostly ascending ripeness levels.

The VDP and Terroir–Based Classification[1]

The VDP — Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter a private association of roughly 200 German growers recognized that the national classification system failed to address changes in taste and climate. Both had begun to favor the production of dry wines. Moreover, the national system had all but erased the identity of Germany’s most acclaimed vineyards.

So, in 2002, with one eye on Burgundy, the other on restoring the prestige and marketability of top German wines, the VDP rolled out its own terroir-based classification system. The VDP’s prominence meant that its quality hierarchy gained widespread acceptance as a second, parallel system of classification — albeit only usable by its members. Today, its four-tier classification structure looks like this:

All four tiers are for dry wines. Specifications include:

VDP.GUTSWEIN (estate level) from estate-grown grapes, with maximum yields of 4.5 tons/ac or 75 hl/ha 

VDP.ORTSWEIN (village level) from top sites from a single village, with the same yield limits as for VDP.GUTSWEIN

VDP.ERSTES GEWÄCHS (“premier cru”) sourced from recognized Erste Lage (“premier cru”) sites; maximum yields are 3.6 tons/ac or 60 hl/ha 

VDP.GROSSE GEWÄCHS (“grand cru”) sourced from recognized Grosse Lage sites; maximum yields are 3 tons/ac or 50 hl/ha.

The VDP also has a separate classification for Sekt, or traditional-method sparkling wine:

VDP.Sekt (minimum 15 months on lees, 24 months in bottle) 
VDP.Sekt Prestige (36 months on lees, 36 months in bottle). 

The 2021 German Wine Law — Origins Matter After All

It turns out that having two parallel, complex systems was not the way to win over converts to German wine, so in 2021 Germany got a new wine law — and, with it, a new classification system. Under the motto “The smaller the origin, the higher the quality,” German wines are now largely classified by terroir, not ripeness. 

The new law and classification do not have full effect until this year (2026). Up to and including vintage 2025, German wines may still be labeled under the old rules and kept on the market. 

The 2021 classification does not change the existing Prädikate. The additional indication of Prädikate is still allowed by the 2021 wine law for all categories of Qualitätswein (except Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs).

What does change is that quality is now assessed by narrowing geographic specificity. The three main tiers are: Deutscher Wein (German wine); Landwein (Country wine); Qualitätswein (Quality wine).

Deutscher Wein is the most basic wine category, with more laxed requirements and no PGI or PDO designation.

Landwein requires at least 85% of the grapes originate in a given wine region. Landwein is typically Trocken (dry) or Halbtrocken (off-dry). This is equivalent to EU’s PGI denomination.

The vast majority (60-80%, the share depends on the vintage) of German wine is classified as Qualitätswein. These wines must originate entirely from a single German Anbaugebiet or wine region – one of 13 in Germany – and the region must be declared on the label. Wines can only be made from legally permitted grapes and must reach a minimum alcohol content as prescribed for the region. Among the notable provisions of the 2021 wine law, the term Qualitätswein can now be accompanied or replaced by the term geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g.U.) or PDO, combined with the name of a winegrowing area.

Qualitätswein is now subdivided into four narrowing tiers of origin. These are: Anbaugebiet (wine region), Region or Bereich (district), Ort (village), and Lage (vineyard). Lage sits at the apex of this pyramid. 

The 2021 law then goes further, splitting Lage into three rising quality levels:

Einzellage (single vineyard) wines must reach a certain ripeness level; further specifications are set regionally.

Erstes Gewächs (premier cru) are white or red wines produced from a single variety identified as traditional and characteristic of a particular region. Yields may not exceed 3.6 tons/ac or 60 hl/ha on flat land, or 4.2 tons/ac or 70 hl/ha on steep slopes. Potential alcohol must be at least 11% and come from a declared vintage and site or parcel. The wine must be vinified dry and pass a sensory evaluation by an official tasting committee. Erstes Gewächs may not be released before March 1 of the year following the vintage. 

Grosses Gewächs (grand cru) are the pinnacle. Only white and red wines produced from a single variety identified as traditional and characteristic of a particular region qualify as “GG”s. Manual harvest is required. Yields are capped at 3 tons/ac or 50 hl/ha. Potential alcohol must be at least 12%. The wine must come from a declared vintage and a particular site or parcel. The wine must be vinified dry and pass a sensory evaluation by official tasting committee. Grosse Gewächse may not be released before September 1 of the year following the vintage if white and June 1 of the second year after the vintage if red. The new law goes so far as to allow parcels within a single vineyard to be stated on a wine label, provided that these Gewannen, or cadastral vineyards, are entered in an official vineyard register.

 

  1. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

It is Germany’s leading black grape variety. In Germany, the Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is to red wine what the Riesling is to white wine: the cream of the crop. The grape ripens with distinct acidity and moderate tannins and produces wines ranging from light to full-bodied, depending on the region of cultivation.

It is widely cultivated across nearly all German wine regions, with notable significance in Ahr, Baden, Franken, Hessische Bergstraße, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Württemberg.

The Ahr region holds the largest concentration of Spätburgunder vineyards in Germany.

Between 1980 and 2020, the vineyard area dedicated to Spätburgunder in Germany nearly tripled and today, Germany is the third-largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, after France and the United States.

The traditional style of Spätburgunder is lighter in color, body and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates.

High demands on location and climate

Aroma: blackberries, cherries, strawberries, elderberries, pepper.

Cultivation and significance

Demanding in terms of soil, climate and weather conditions, Pinot Noir is the number one red grape variety in Germany.

In Germany, around 11,519 hectares (2023) of vineyards are planted with the Pinot Noir variety, which corresponds to around 11 per cent of the total vineyard area. Wine growers and consumers are increasingly favoring the variety. Since the beginning of the 1990s, the area planted with Pinot Noir has grown by more than 5,000 hectares. Most of the vines of this variety are in Baden (5,029 hectares) – with a focus on Kaiserstuhl. The Palatinate (1,739 ha), Rheinhessen (1,504 ha), Württemberg (1,302 ha), the Rheingau (403 ha) and the Ahr (342 ha) are also important areas for growing Pinot Noir.

Vinification and flavor

Pinot Noir wines taste full-bodied and velvety, with a fruity flavor and hints of almond. The typical Pinot Noir has a slightly sweetish aroma of red fruit, from strawberry to cherry and blackberry to blackcurrant. Barrique wines also have hints of vanilla and cinnamon. A distinction is made between the classic and the modern type. Traditionally, the best Pinot Noirs were made from very ripe grapes, were not very colorful, mild, low in tannins and reddish-red in color. In addition to this classic type, the modern Pinot Noir with a strong red color, more tannin, less acidity and often a short ageing period in small oak barrels is becoming increasingly important.

History

The Pinot Noir grape variety belongs to the Burgundy family. It is probably one of the earliest varieties to be selected from the wild vines in western Central Europe. Charles the Fat brought the variety to Lake Constance in 884. It was planted in the Rheingau in the 13th century. In the 16th century, it was probably also planted in the Palatinate. In the 18th century, the variety is said to have travelled from Burgundy to the Ahr. The variety experienced a boom 150 years ago with the expansion of sparkling wine production, for which pure Burgundy vineyards were planted. The terms “Pinot Noir” and, in parts of Baden, “Klevner” are used as synonyms.

 

  1. The Wine Regions for this Tasting

The Spätburgunder in our tasting comes from three of the country’s wine regions: Ahr, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen

                                            

Ahr – Red Wine Paradise

The Ahr is one of Germany’s northernmost wine regions. It is also one of the smallest, with vineyards extending only 24 km along the Ahr River as it flows toward the Rhine just south of Bonn. From Altenahr, in the west, to the spa town Bad Neuenahr, the vines are perched on steep, terraced cliffs of volcanic slate. In the broad eastern end of the valley, the slopes are gentler and the soils are rich in loess. Four out of five bottles of Ahr wine are red — velvety to fiery Spätburgunder and light, charming Portugieser predominate. Lively, fresh Riesling is the most common white wine produced here. Another specialty of the region is the red variety Frühburgunder.

The Ahr Valley is on the fringe of the protective Eifel Hills. Climate is mild and favorable, greenhouse-like in some of the steeper sites. Soil types are deep, rich loess in the lower Ahr Valley (eastern portion); slate, volcanic stone and rocky soils in the middle Ahr Valley (western portion). The Ahr River meanders dreamily in tight bends through the bizarre rock landscape towards the Rhine and the vineyards nestle above on barren rocks. The mild climate provides the grapes with ideal conditions, as the warmed rocks release their stored heat to the vines at night.

Vineyard area (2022): 529 ha · 1 district · 1 collective vineyard site · 40+ individual sites.

Grape varieties (2022) include 20% white and 80% red. Spätburgunder (64.3%), Riesling (8.7%), Frühburgunder (5.9%) as well as Müller-Thurgau and Portugieser.

Today, the Ahr Valley in the north of Rhineland-Palatinate presents itself as a distinguished red wine growing region. In addition to Spätburgunder, the king of red vines, Frühburgunder is also valued and is one of the specialties of the region.

The top Ahr wines can only be produced with great effort and dedication. To work on the vines and harvest, the winegrowers often must climb through rugged crevices in extremely steep slopes, where sometimes only a few vines stand side by side. Top quality rewards this arduous work in such extreme vineyards.

Most growers are members of the five cooperatives that produce and market about 75% of the region’s wine. The State Wine Domain at the 12th century monastery Kloster Marienthal is the Ahr’s largest wine estate. Nearly all the region’s wine is consumed locally or sold to tourists. 

Pfalz – Where Almond Trees Bloom

Pfalz is located between the densely forested Haardt Mountains (an extension of the Vosges) and the Rhine plain, extending from south of Worms all the way to the French border. For over 85 uninterrupted kilometers, Pfalz’s vineyards sweep across this remarkably pretty, peaceful land, linking the 130 wine towns of the region between Bockenheim and Schweigen on the border with Alsace.

The climate is influenced by many hours of sunshine, with average temperature of 11°C. In terms of soils, Loam is prevalent, often in a mixture with other soil types, such as loess, chalk, clay, colored sandstone or sand.

Vineyard area (2022): 23,698 ha · 2 districts · 25 collective vineyard sites · 300+ individual sites. 

Grape varieties (2022) 61% white and  39% red. Riesling (25.2%), Dornfelder (10.7%), Grauburgunder (9%),  MüllerThurgau (6.9%), Spätburgunder (7.2%) as well as Portugieser, Weißburgunder, Kerner and Chardonnay.

Pfalz is the second largest German wine-growing region. The focus of the winegrowers is on classic grape varieties, especially Riesling. The king of white wines has become the undisputed leader in the Pfalz with nearly 6,000 hectares cultivated, and several other white verieties are on the rise. Red wines are becoming increasingly important. There is lively, fresh Weißherbst from the Portugieser grape, fruity Pinot Noir and as a special Pfalz success story, Dornfelder, which has been creating a sensation for several years. This deep-colored and quite complex red wine is mostly produced in a dry style with southern charm. About 40% of the vines between the Rhine and Haardt mountains now carry red grapes, making the Pfalz the largest red wine region in Germany.

About a third of the region’s wine is sold directly to consumers and 50% is marketed through commercial wineries and some two dozen cooperative cellars.

Rheinhessen – Land of a Thousand Hills

Germany’s largest wine region, Rheinhessen, lies in a valley of gentle rolling hills. While vines are virtually a monoculture in the Rheingau or along the Mosel, they are but one of many crops that share the fertile soils of this region’s vast farmlands. Wine has been grown here on the left bank of the Rhine since the Romans, and the oldest document about a German vineyard location – the Niersteiner Glöck – concerns a wine location in Rheinhessen.

The climate is mild as the region is surrounded by protective hills and forests: in the west, the forested, hilly countryside known as “Rheinhessen’s Switzerland”; in the north by the Taunus Hills; and in the east, the Oden Forest.

Soil types are mostly loess, limestone and loam, often mixed with sand or gravel, are the main soil types. “Rotliegendes” is a red, slaty-sandy clay soil in the steep riverfront vineyards of Nackenheim and Nierstein and near Bingen, there is an outcropping of quartzite-slate. 

Vineyard area (2022): 27,312 ha · 3 districts · 24 collective vineyard sites · 400+ individual sites 

Grape varieties (2022): 74% white and 26% red. Riesling (19.4%), Müller-Thurgau (14.3%), Dornfelder (11.3%), Silvaner (7.1%), Pinot Gris (8.5%), Pinot Noir (5.5%), Pinot Blanc, Portugieser and Kerner

Varied soils and the favorable climate make it possible to grow many grape varieties, old and new. In earlier times, it was a blend of whites that were popular, and some may remember Rheinhessen as the birthplace of the soft, mellow white wine Liebfraumilch. The region also boasts the world’s largest acreage planted with the ancient variety Silvaner, which is again making a name for itself. Now, a new young generation of local wine growers, appreciating the ideal working conditions on these gentle slopes, have drawn attention to themselves in recent years for their excellent wines, amongst them, high quality Rieslings.

There are a large number of part-time winegrowers in the region who sell grapes or bulk wine to commercial wineries and producer associations who produce and/or bottle and market the wine. Because of the large number of individual sites, about half the region’s wine is marketed under the name of a few collective sites (e.g. Niersteiner Gutes Domtal, and Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen). About one third of all Rheinhessen wine is exported, not least because it is the primary supplier of the components for “Liebfrauenmilch“.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Okonomierat Rebholz, ‘R’ Spätburgunder, Pfalz, 2021

– The Producer: Weingut Rebholz family has long been defined by a steadfast commitment to producing pure, natural, and authentically dry wines. This began with Eduard Rebholz (1889–1966) who transformed the winery after World War II and rejected the growing trend toward sweetened, manipulated wines. In 1951, he articulated his principle of “natural wine”: wines made without sugar additions, artificial sweetening, or any intervention that alter their original character. For him, true quality began in the vineyard, and cellar work should preserve — not modify — the wine. His son, Hans Rebholz (1920–1978), continued this uncompromising dry style, even when it was unfashionable in Germany. Since the mid‑1990s, Hans’s son Hansjörg and wife Birgit have led the estate, expanding vineyard holdings, joining the VDP, and strengthening their commitment to sustainability through organic and later biodynamic certification. Their sons, Hans and Valentin, represent the next generation embracing these same values.

All vineyards have been organically farmed since 2006. The estate places great importance on old vines, essential for producing top‑quality wines. The Burgundy varieties grow on shell limestone and calcareous loess.  Limestone soil is the best condition for all the great Burgundy /Pinot Noir wines of the World!

The “R” wines represent Hansjörg Rebholz’s cross‑generational contribution to the legacy of his father, a tradition the next generation continues with the same focus and dedication to quality. The “R” label marks wines that have always been aged in barriques. By firmly establishing barrique aging for top Burgundy varieties, Hansjörg made it a defining discipline of the Rebholz estate. These wines gain depth and finesse with every passing year.

The Wine:

  • Year – 2021
  • Grape – 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: Organic farming across all vineyards since 2006; focus on keeping old vine parcels healthy, young, and productive. Siebeldingen’s soils are highly diverse due to the geological formation of the Rhine Rift Valley and the uplift of the Palatinate Forest.
  • Vinification: Healthy, ripe grapes are hand‑harvested and destemmed; Pinot Noir berries is added whole to the destemmed mash; the mash is cooled for cold maceration to capture varietal and site‑specific aromas; spontaneous natural fermentation begins to preserve freshness while extracting structure and complexity; pressing usually occurs after about three weeks; the must is clarified by natural sedimentation
  • Aging: 19–20 months in French barriques
  • 13.5% APV

Producer’s Tasting Notes: Dense and complex structure with lots of character. In the bouquet you will find the scent of sour cherry, black pepper and herbs. A Pinot Noir with an eerie spiciness where the oak is in the background. Unfiltered, juicy, elegant and with a long aftertaste.

Wine #2 Meyer Näkel, Spätburgunder, Ahr, 2022

– The Producer: Weingut Meyer-Näkel is a producer in Dernau in the Ahr Region. It is best known for red wines made from the Spätburgunder wine grape variety, though the portfolio also includes whites and rosé. The name of the wine estate goes back to the marriage of grandparents Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel in 1950. They cultivated an area of just 1.5 hectares yet were able to make a name for themselves, because Willibald’s production of dry red wines represented thoroughly pioneering work at the time. As of 2021 the vineyard holdings had grown to 15 hectares of Pinot Noir. The business was managed by Willibald’s son Werner, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dörte. The two sisters are now proceeding with making the magnificent terroir of the steep slopes by the Ahr tangible in mineral-laden and fruity wines. This requires a great deal of care in the vineyard as well as reduced yields, which are harvested by hand and carefully selected. The work in the cellar focuses exclusively on preserving this high level of quality through a gentle working method.

 

The Wine:

    • Vintage: 2023
    • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP-GUTSWEIN
  • Vineyard & winemaking: The vineyard is in the Ahr Region and the soil is slate and greywacke decomposition stone. The grapes are hand picked with crushed must fermentation and matured in big oak barrels.
  • 13% ABV

Producer Tasting Notes: This wine is a typical traditional Ahr Pinot. In the nose you find a slightly earthy aroma of red berries like blackberry, blueberry and raspberry as well as ripe cherries, strawberries and blackberries with spicy traces of juniper and laurels. A smooth wine with elegant tannin structure and good substance.

This wine goes well with poultry, light meat, pasta and mushrooms as well as a spicy companion to grilled stronger spiced fish.

Wine #3. Meyer Näkel, Spätburgunder ‘Blauschiefer’ (Blue Slate), Ahr, 2022

The Wine: VDP.ORTSWEINE denotes high-quality, characterful and traditional vineyards within a town and give expression to the local terroir. Only regional varieties are used. Reduced yield yields and a long ripening period on the vine enable the typical aroma and elegant acidity and tannin structure. The slate soils of the Ahr River give Spätburgunder an unmistakable minerality that is truly unparalleled, making it something unique.

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP ORTSWEIN
  • Viticulture: There are three vineyards Dernauer Pfarrwingert (1.2ha), Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg (1.4ha) and Walporzheimer Kräuterberg (0.7ha) for the cultivation of several grapes, but the majority (75%) are Pinot Noir.
  • Vinification: The fully ripened grapes are hand picked (yield of 40-45hl/ha), the crushed must is fermented with natural yeasts for about 20 days.
  • Aging: 11 months in French Oak barriques, for the most part in used barrels just to underline this elegant wine.
  • 13% ABV.

Producer Tasting Notes: The Blue Slate (“Blauschiefer”) is a very good example of the extraordinary combination of slate and Pinot Noir. The stony soil creates a mineral wine with smoky aroma of red fruits like blackberry, blueberry, red currant and dark cherry, that is accompanied by floral and roasted aromas, with a good substance and sustainability, elegant and smooth tannins.

This wine goes well with poultry, light meat, pasta and mushrooms as well as a spicy companion to grilled stronger spiced fish.

 

Wine #4. Thörle, Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen, 2022

The Producer: The Thörle Estate dates back to the 16th century. In 1985 Rudolf Thörle took over from his father Jakob Thörle and set the estate’s focus more on the traditional varietals Riesling and Pinot Noir. In the following years, the Thörle family acquired and planted excellent parcels in Salheim’s Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards sites to expand the estate’s diversity of terroir. Since 2006 the state has been in the hands of the next generation, Johannes and Chrisph Thörle, who manage the winery with innovative skills.

The Thörle brothers obtain their distinctive, sappy Riesling and delicate Pinot Noir from the characteristically calcareous limestone soils of Saulheim’s Holle, Scholssberg and Probstey. They have received several prizes and awards for their individual approach and new pressing techniques. To ensure maximum extraction from the grapes, they apply mash retention and use spontaneous yeast for the fermentation process. Today, the Thörle estate ranks among the best producers in Rheinhessen.

The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP GUTSWEINE
  • Viticulture and winemaking: grown in the younger vineyards around Saulheim. The soils are characterized by limestone sediments and loess-clay deposits. Grapes harvested by hand at an optimal balance of aroma, acidity, and ripeness. The harvest time is particularly crucial for Pinot Noir. Skin-fermented, extract-rich Pinot Noir was aged for 18 months in traditional French barriques (225l). Bottled unfiltered.
  • 13% ABV

Producer Tasting Notes: The nose offers wild aromas and intense dark fruit. On the palate, a hint of herbal mint, fine acidity, and a powerful minerality. Pure Pinot Noir!

Critic’s tasting notes: “Drinking window: 2024 – 2040. This 2022 Pinot Noir is from a mix of German and French genetics. Fully destemmed and fermented in open cuve, it graduated for 18 months in used barrique. A touch of smoke wraps itself around aromatic wild cherry. Cool, smooth balance is immediately apparent on the palace—coolness, in fact, is the operative term, even in this warm year. Fully ripe tannins brush like starched velvet, rounded but really fine. The wild cherry aroma is beguiling and pure, while the freshness is pristine, pure and expressive. My oh my, this is quite a number for an estate Pinot Noir. Bone-dry” (Vinous, 2022).

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)


6. CV Members Rating
The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 15 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Thörle, Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen, 2022 was the Best wine and the Best Buy.

Notes and References

German Wine Scholar, Study Guide, Wine Scholar Guild, 2025.

Understanding German Wine Classification, Valerie Kathawala, Wine Scholar Guild Blog, 01 January 2025 (Understanding German Wine Classification)

Wines of Germany:  https://www.winesofgermany.com

Wine Folly: Download Wine Maps (Free Guides) | Wine Folly

Veritable Wines: https://www.veritable-wines-estates.de/partner/thoerle

The GWC: https://thegwc.com/meyer-na%CC%88kel/

Rebholz: https://www.oekonomierat-rebholz.com/

Meyer-Naekel: https://www.meyer-naekel.de/

Thorle: https://www.thoerle-wein.de/

[1] Source: https://www.vdp.de/en/the-wines/classification

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Just for laughing:

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Tasting No 286 – February 24, 2026 – Mediterranean, Atlantic and Etna

Tasting No 286 – February 24, 2026

Mediterranean, Atlantic and Etna, three terroirs in contrast

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The selection of Sicily (Etna), the Canary Islands (Valle de la Orotava), and Priorat aims to compare wines produced in extreme territories, where soil and climate profoundly shape their character. Although these regions are very different, they share something in common: an intense mineral expression.

Despite not being part of the Mediterranean,  the Canary Islands were included for the following :

  1. We haven’t had a tasting of wines from the Canary Islands at the Club, notwithstanding having a winemaking tradition of high‑quality wines.
  2. Their volcanic origin creates a natural dialogue with Sicily, while their lightness contrasts with the power of Priorat, enriching the comparison.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters: Clara Estrada and Jorge García-García

Participants:  R. Arroio; J. Brakarz; Y. Cutler; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; G. García; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; G. Smart; L. Uechi; and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

  1. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, 2024
  2. Envínate, Migan Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands, 2022
  3. Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022
  4. Vall Llach – Porrera Vi de Vila, Priorat DOCa, 2022

The Menu

  • Mediterranean citrus calamari salad
  • Mushroom risotto
  • Braised beef short ribs in a red wine reduction
  • Dessert, coffee and tea
  1. The Wine Regions

The Canary Islands: Viticultural History and Mediterranean Connection

Viticulture in the Canary Islands began after the European conquest of the archipelago in the 15th century, when settlers, merchants, and religious orders—mainly from the Iberian Peninsula, Portugal, and other Mediterranean regions—introduced Vitis vinifera varieties. Many of these grapes, common in the Mediterranean—such as Malvasia, Listán, and others now extinct in continental Europe—found in the volcanic soils and mild climate of the islands an exceptional environment for adaptation. From the beginning, vine cultivation in the Canaries was closely linked to Mediterranean and Atlantic trade routes, with the archipelago acting as a bridge between the two worlds.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Canary wine industry flourished thanks to the production of sweet wines, especially those made from Malvasia, which were exported massively to England, Flanders, and the Americas. These wines, internationally known as Canary Sack or Malmsey, enjoyed great prestige and were widely cited in European literature of the time. This golden age positioned the Canaries as one of the major wine centers of Atlantic trade, in direct dialogue with other Mediterranean regions producing sweet and fortified wines.

A vast range of indigenous grapes are grown for wine, and international varieties are largely absent. Listan Blanco (Palomino), Malvasia, Marmajuelo, Listan Negro and Tintilla are some of the authorized grapes. The local varieties are suited to the sub-tropical climate and achieve high must weight, a reason the trend has been to produce sweet wines, including fortified ones aged oxidatively.

A key feature distinguishing Canary vineyards is that the islands were never affected by phylloxera in the 19th century, allowing the preservation of pre-phylloxera varieties and traditional cultivation systems that disappeared in much of continental Europe.

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, a new generation of wine growers revived these varieties and historical practices, leading to a renewal of the Canary wine industry. Today, Canary wines are valued for their strong identity, marked volcanic minerality, and their ability to express a unique terroir that resonates with both Mediterranean heritage and Atlantic influence.

Appellations: The Canaries’ largest island, Tenerife, houses half of the region’s DOs: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora. The remaining designations cover the islands (in their entirety) of El Hierro, Gran Canaria, La Gomera, La Palma and Lanzarote. Each area has a unique microclimate and soil composition, lending to distinctive wines with signature mineral notes.

Etna DOC, Sicily: “The Burgundy Of The Mediterranean”

Sicily as a whole enjoys ample sunshine and lots of heat. However, Mt. Etna’s high elevation also provides greater rainfall, moderating breezes and cooler temperatures. Etna’s unique nature means soils, microclimates and exposures change dramatically from site to site, creating a panorama of characteristics and possibilities in the vineyards. Etna DOC is a stunning wine appellation that covers the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. The appellation is famous for its unique volcanic terroir and distinctive wines. More details about wines from Sicily, and Etna DOC in particular can be found in our blog post from February, 2024 (https://clubvino1.com/2024/02/22/tasting-no-262-february-27-2024-wines-from-sicily/).

Priorat DOP, Spain: “Some of Spain’s most powerful red wines come from this small, geographically inhospitable wine region”

The Priorat wine DOP is located in the Catalonia region, just inland from the Mediterranean port city of Tarragona. The Montsant mountain chain dominates the region, with vineyards situated between 330 feet above sea level in the valleys of Bellmunt del Priorat and el Molar up to 2,500 feet above sea level on the slopes of La Morera de Montsant and Porrera. Many vineyards are located on costers (Catalan for “steep slope”), so terracing is common, and vineyards are often too steep and narrow for machine-harvesting. The slate soil on the slopes is known as llicorella due to its dark color and is the main feature of the soil’s terroir and the success of its native grapes: Ganarcha and Cariñena.

For more information, see our blog post from May, 2022 (https://clubvino1.com/2022/05/20/tasting-241-may-31-2022-1230pm-priorat-and-penedes-catalonia-wine-region/ ).

  1. Climate and Terroir

          Etna Bianco and the Canary Islands: volcanoes, altitude, and salinity

Both Etna Bianco and Migan come from volcanic soils.

– In the Etna DOC area, vineyards sit between 600 and 900 m on slopes of ash, pumice, and volcanic sands. This produces tense, saline wines with marked acidity.

– In the Canary Islands, especially in the Valle de la Orotava DO, volcanic soils mix ash, lapilli, and basalt, giving light, aromatic wines with a characteristic smoky minerality.

Both regions share volcanic origin, vibrant acidity, saline or smoky minerality, and climates moderated by the sea (the Mediterranean in Sicily, and the Atlantic in the Canaries).

Priorat: slate, Mediterranean heat, and concentration

Priorat contrasts with Sicily and the Canary Islands in almost every way:

– Llicorella soil (black slate and quartz), which contributes graphite notes and a dry, mineral texture.

– A continental‑influenced Mediterranean climate, warmer and drier, producing dense, ripe, structured wines.

– Old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha, which yield deep and powerful wines.

  1. The Grapes

Carricante and Catarratto

Carricante is native grape grown only on the volcanic slopes of Mt Etna and must make up at least 60% of Etna Bianco wines. It is the backbone of the Etna Bianco DOC wines, providing high acidity, tension, and longevity. Catarratto (20–25%) is added to the blend, to add body and herbal notes. Other native grapes are used in smaller amounts: Grecanico (5–10%), which contributes freshness and citrus aromas; and Minnella (5%) that gives softness and white fruit. All are native varieties are deeply tied to Etna’s terroir.

Listán Negro

An indigenous variety from the Canary Islands, it is widespread in Tenerife and La Palma. The grape produces light, aromatic wines with red fruit, pepper, and a distinctive volcanic character. It is the perfect grape to express Atlantic freshness and smoky minerality.

Garnacha (Grenache)

A classic Mediterranean grape, originally from Aragón and widely spread in Spain, France (as Grenache), and the southern Rhône. It produces wines with ripe red fruit, high alcohol, and silky texture. In Priorat it is key for bringing sweet fruit, breadth, and warmth.

Cariñena (Carignan)

Originally from Aragón, now common in Catalonia and southern France. A grape with high acidity, firm tannin, and deep color. In Priorat—especially in Porrera—old‑vine Cariñena provides structure, tension, and dark minerality.

International grapes

One of the red wines from Priorat in this tasting is a blend using international grapes in addition to the native varieties, such as: Merlot (28%), to soffen the tannins, and add roundness and plum notes; Syrah (12%), which adds spice, color, and a floral touch; and Cabernet Sauvignon (12%)  brings structure, firm tannin, and cassis notes. Together, these varieties make Embruix more approachable, rounded, and aromatic than Porrera.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Tenuta delle Terre Nere – Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, 2024

– Producer: Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of Etna’s benchmarks, a pioneer in parcel‑based vinification and in showcasing the purity of volcanic terroir. Terre Nere’s vineyards encompass 55 hectares (135 acres) in four different subregions across the island. Altitude here ranges from 1960 to 3280 feet (600 to1000m) above sea level, creating steep slopes within an undulating landscape. The steepest gradients are closely terraced and require manual farming practices. Many vines are approaching 100 years old with a handful of plots over 130 years having been planted prior to the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th Century.

– The wine: Its style: tense, mineral, saline white with vibrant acidity. Nose-floral, reminiscent of linden blooms; Palate: fresh and salty, mineral essence.

Critics’ notes: (a) Vinous: bouquet of flowers, ginger, and green apple; stimulating acidity and long finish; (b) Wine Advocate: transparent expression of the volcano, with flint, melon, and white peach.

Suggested pairings: white fish, seafood, lemon risotto.

Wine #2. Envínate ‘Migan’ Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands, 2022

– Producer: Bodega Envínate is one of Spain’s most influential projects, focused on minimal‑intervention wines with strong terroir identity. In the Canaries, Envínate is a highly regarded winery situated in the Tenerife Island, known for its terroir-driven, low-intervention wines made from ancient, indigenous grape varieties.  The project, founded in 2008 by four enology graduates—Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez—focuses on expressing the unique volcanic landscapes of the Canary Islands, particularly in the Valle de la Orotava, where the Migan Tinto is produced, and the Taganana region.

– The wine: The style is light, aromatic red with fine tannin and volcanic minerality.

Critics’ notes: (a) Wine Advocate: very volcanic, with notes of pumice stone, pepper, and fresh red fruit; (b) Vivino (user profile): smoke, minerals, cherry, and spices.

Suggested pairings: roast chicken, fatty fish, soft cheeses.

 

Wine #3. Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022[1]

– Producer: Founded by Lluís Llach, Celler Vall Llach is one of the emblematic names of modern Priorat, and specialist in old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha in Porrera. Their “trossos” (plots of land) are centenary farms, with vineyards between 90 and 110 years old of Carignan and Grenache. Their slopes are impressive and don’t allow mechanized work. They ensure we have an exclusive must for our selections. These vineyards are supplemented with others, chosen for their quality among the oldest and most famous in the villages of Porrera and Torroja, all cultivated by farmers who work on a regular basis with the winery. In addition, to further ensure the complexity of our wines, the winery planted a series of vineyards with grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier.

– The Wine: The Style: Balanced, approachable Mediterranean red with ripe fruit and minerality.

Critics’ notes: (a) Wine Advocate: ripe fruit, sweet spices, fine tannins, velvety palate; (b) Vinous: red fruit, reactive tannins, intense but accessible character.

Suggested pairings: white meats, pasta with ragù, semi‑cured cheeses. 

[1] DOCa is the Spanish (Castillian) version of the title DOQ which is the official title in Catalan and the most commonly seen in the labels. Priorat was elevated to this status by the Catalan government in 2000. DOQ stands for Denominació d’Origen Qualificada. DOP, on the other hand, is the acronym for the Catalan Denominació d’Origen Protegida. Priorat is, together with La Rioja the two regions in Spain with the DOQa classification, the highest level for a wine region.

 

Wine #4. Vall Llach, ‘Porrera Vi de Vila’, Priorat DOCa, 2022

– The Wine: from the same producer, its Style: Deep, powerful, mineral red with firm tannin.

Critics’ notes: (a) Vinous: cherry and balsamic aromas, reactive tannins, intense wine; (b) Wine.com (description): black fruit, graphite, chocolate, and a very long finish.

Suggested pairings: lamb, red meats, aged cheeses.

 

Table A. Technical Sheet and Tasting Order

Table B. Structural and Sensory Comparison

6.  Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 17 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Vall Llach – Porrera Vi de Vila, Priorat DOCa, Spain, 2022was the Best wine, while Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022  was the Best Buy. 

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The value we give to everything (people included)

Before you have it    When you have it   After you loose it

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Tasting No 285 – January 29, 2026 Champagne

Tasting No 285 – January 29, 2026  Tasting Champagne: Non-Vintage Brut and Rosé

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 Tasting date changed to January 29 due Snow Storm, please reconfirm your participation

Scroll to the bottom of this post for a MS Power Point presentation of this content.

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to compare and contrast Non-vintage (NV) Brut and Rosé versions of Champagne wines produced by two famous estates: Veuve Clicquot and Moët & Chandon. Specifically, to compare two NV Brut, compare two Rosé and compare the NV with the Rosé of each House. Also, Participants may discuss aspects of champagne-making, such as terroir, the méthode champegnoise, types of champagne, the service, among others.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Ricardo Santiago

Participants: R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; N. and R Gochicoa; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; P. Meduña; A. and C. Perazza; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E.
Silva; L. Uechi; and S. Santiago (guest).

These are the wines:

  1. Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label NV, Brut, Champagne
  2. Moët & Chandon, Impérial NV, Brut, Champagne
  3. Veuve Clicquot, Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne
  4. Moët & Chandon, Impérial Rosé NV, Brut Champagne.

 The Menu

  • Lobster bisque
  • Grilled cod with spinach and lemon
  • Grilled lamb with vegetables
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

 

  1. Types, Main Grapes and Tasting Champagne
  2. The Producers
  • Winegrowers: more than 16,200 who, together, own 90% of the vineyards.
  • Cooperatives: first cooperative was set up in 1921.
  • Champagne Houses: historically been at the origin of the reputation and prestige of Champagne’s wines. Houses make and sell two-thirds of the Champagne under different brands.
    • Professional Categories:
      • NM: Négociant Manipulant (Merchant Producer)
      • RM: Récoltant Manipulant (Grower Producer)
      • RC: Récoltant Coopérateur (Cooperative members with own label)
      • CM: Coopérative de Manipulation (Cooperative Producer)
      • ND: Négociant Distributeur (Merchant distributor)
      • MA: Marque d’Acheteur (Private label/store brands)
  1. Types of Champagne
  • Non-Vintage Brut
  • Blanc de Blancs
  • Blanc de Noirs
  • Vintage Champagne
  • Rosé Champagne
  • Champagne from specific localities or plots
  1. The Three Main Grapes in Champagne
  • Pinot Noir
    • Brings body
    • Aromas of red fruit and flowers (rose, violet)
    • Gives wines structure
  • Chardonnay
    • Delicacy
    • Aromas of white flowers and citrus fruit
    • Freshness
  • Meunier
    • Supple and fruity
    • Aromas of yellow fruit
  1. Tasting Champagne
  • Champagne is tasted in the same way as any other wine, with one difference: the opening of the bottle and the bubbles add a sound component. In this way, Champagne can be said to stimulate all the senses.
  • Appearance:
    • Color
    • Intensity
  • Nose
    • Intensity
    • Aromas of youth/Primary
    • Aromas of Maturity/Secondary
    • Aromas of Fullness/Tertiary
  • Taste
    • Effervescence
    • Sweetness
    • Liveness
    • Body
    • Flavors
    • Finish
  • Conclusion
    • Complexity
    • Recommendation
    • Food Pairing.

 

  1. The Champagne Houses

“A Champagne House is an agricultural and/or industrial and commercial business that commands the human and natural resources required to produce Champagne for distribution worldwide.”

The Champagne Houses are the cornerstone of the success of Champagne wines, building an international reputation that has given Champagne legendary status. They have cuvées that perpetuate the characteristic style of each brand.

Veuve Clicquot

  • Founded in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot.
  • The widow Barbe Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, born in 1777, assumed in 1805 the head of the company founded by her father-in-law.
  • She is responsible for many firsts in Champagne: the first known vintage champagne (The Comet Vintage 1811), the invention of the riddling table; and the first known blended rosé.
  • Motto of the House: “Only one quality, the finest”.
  • A lineage of just 11 Cellar Master ensuring the quality of the style: strength and complexity.
  • Only the juice from the cuvée (the first and most noble pressing) is used.
  • Has the largest and most varied collection of reserve wines (400 wines, aged up to 30 years).

Moët & Chandon

  • Founded in 1743, in the heart of champagne country with the most extensive estates in the region.
  • The House has 1,300 hectares (3,212 acres) of rich chalk soil, 50% are Grands Crus and 25% are Premiers Crus.
  • The grapes come from vineyards in all the five main areas of Champagne, from 280 of the 323 crus in the region.
  • This wide-ranging diversity of fruits and vineyards ensures the optimum selection of grapes, maintaining the constancy and originality of Moëtchampagnes.

 

  1. The Wines

       Wine #1.  Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label NV, Brut, Champagne

  • The House’s signature champagne.
  • Veuve Clicquot style: freshness, strength, aromatic richness and silkiness.
  • Predominance of Pinot Noir (50%) provides the structure that is so typically Veuve Clicquot. A touch of Meunier (20%) rounds out the blend and Chardonnay (30%) adds the elegance and finesse essential in a perfectly balanced wine.
  • The blend can be created with up to 45% reserve wines.
  • Yellow Label Brut is structured by Pinot Noir, the true backbone of the wine.
  • Yellow Label Brut cuvée reveals an aromatic profile dominated by notes of white and yellow fruits like pear, apple, and peach. Hints of citrus fruits like mandarin and grapefruit blend harmoniously with gourmand aromas of brioche.
  • Dosage: Brut 9 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

       Wine #2.   Moët & Chandon, Impérial NV, Brut, Champagne

  • Moët Impérial is the House’s iconic champagne. Created in 1869, it embodies Moët & Chandon’s unique style, distinguished by its bright fruitiness, seductive palate and its elegant maturity.
  • Created from more than 100 different wines, of which 20 to 30% are reserve wines specially selected to enhance its maturity, complexity and constancy, the assemblage reflects the diversity and complementarity of the three grapes varietals.
  • The body of Pinot Noir (30 to 40%), the suppleness of Meunier (30 to 40%) and the finesse of Chardonnay (20 to 30%).
  • A sparkling bouquet: the vibrant intensity of green apple and citrus fruit, the freshness of mineral nuances and white flowers, and the elegance of blond  notes (brioche, cereal, fresh nuts).
  • Dosage: Brut 7 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

       Wine #3.  Veuve Clicquot, Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne

  • Veuve Clicquot Rosé is the result of a blending of grapes from 50 to 60 different crus and is composed of up to 45% reserve wines. The cuvée is based on the traditional Yellow Label blend and completed with Pinot Noir red wine.
  • The Brut Rosé offers a rich aromatic profile, combining red and black fruits (cherry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry), spices (white pepper, saffron, licorice), pastries (biscuit, croissant), all enhanced by accents of toast, orange peel, and gingerbread linked to aging on lees.
  • The blend is structured by Pinot Noir, the true backbone of the wine. The addition of 12% red wine from Bouzy brings depth and power on the palate. A harmonious balance of freshness and structure with aromas of red fruits, biscuit, pastry, and a long, elegant finish.
  • Dosage: Brut 9 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

 

 

       Wine #4.  Moët & CVhandon, Impérial Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne

  • Brut Impérial Rosé embodies the vibrant essence of champagne rosé at its finest. This radiant expression of Moët & Chandon style captivates with bright red fruit notes and seductive amber highlights.
  • Every bottle of Champagne Brut Impérial Rosé embodies our savoir-faire, where three noble grape varieties unite in perfect harmony. This artful assemblage creates the signature radiance and romantic expression that defines our Brut Rosé.
  • Each cépage contributes its distinct character, carefully balanced by our cellar masters: the intensity of Pinot Noir (40 to 50%), the roundness of Meunier (30 to 40%), and the elegance of Chardonnay (10 to 20%).
  • Dosage: Brut 7 g/l.
  • Alcohol: 12.5%.

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)


The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 16 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional.

The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, three of the wines were rated very
closely; nominally, Moët & Chandon, Impérial Rosé NV, Brut, Champagne was the Best wine, while Moët & Chandon, Impérial NV, Brut, Champagne was the Best Buy.

Notes and References

 

 

.o0o.

Laughing matter:

Carolina Garcia tasting some good wine

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Tasting No 284 – December 16, 2025 Favorites of 2025

Club del Vino, Washington DC

Tasting No 284 – December 16, 2025

Favorite Wines of 2025:  A Global Tour de Force

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

What a way to close out 2025! Our last tasting of the year introduces four wines that, in very different ways, punched well above their weight and reminded us why we do this every month. From granite-kissed Swartland bush vines; to a non-vintage, multi-regional Italian red sold in supermarkets; to one of the most compelling Hermitage Syrah produced in the Rhone Valley, and to grapes frozen on the vine under the Canadian winter sky; we will taste ambition, value, tradition, and sheer hedonism. Here’s the recap of the standouts that earned their place on our “Favorites of 2025” list.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Ruth Connolly, Ginger Smart, and Michelle Fryer

Participants:  S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; N.  and R. Gochicoa; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; C. Perazza; J and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; G. Zincke; and E. Turina; M. Averbug and Emilio Labrada (guests) .

 

These are the wines:

  1. A. Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs Chenin Blanc’, Swartland, South Africa 2025,
  2. Grande Alberone, Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy
  3. Domaine de Remizières, Hermitage ‘Cuvée Emilie’, France, 2019
  4. Specialty Selection Vidal Ice Wine Reserve, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 2021

The Menu:  

    • Clams in saffron sauce
    • Spaghetti in marinara sauce with meatballs
    • Grilled lamb with vegetables
    • Cheese plate, coffee and tea.

The Wines

-Wine #1. A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs Chenin Blanc’, Swartland, South Africa, 2025

Ruth’s Favorite White Wine:  Some ten to fifteen years ago, perhaps in one of our Club de Vino tastings and perhaps not, I encountered a white wine from South Africa that impressed me as no other white wine I ever tasted, and whose 24-carat gold color and strong flavor has stayed with me to this day. So, when Ginger, Michelle and I discussed presenting our all-time favorite wines for today’s tasting, logic dictated that I present this wine. There was only one problem, I didn’t remember its name, its grape, or the year of its production.  After several calls to wine shops elicited statements regarding the impossibility of finding such a needle in the proverbial haystack, my neighborhood merchant volunteered to look. He was successful.

The wine I am presenting today – the 2025 vintage of a South African Chenin Blanc entitled ‘Badenhorst Secateurs’, and in production for the last 16 years, is hopefully the valid successor of the wine I tasted years ago.

The Producer:  AA Badenhorst Family Wines is a family-owned estate in South Africa’s Swartland appellation managed by cousins Adi and Hein Badenhorst.  Adi, the lead winemaker, draws on extensive experience, including time at Rustenberg and Château Angélus in Bordeaux. His grandfather oversaw Groot Constantia for 46 years, fostering a deep respect for heritage. In 2008, Adi acquired a neglected farm in Siebritskloof on Paardeberg Mountain, restoring a 1930s cellar to produce natural wines from old, dry-farmed bush vines. The 60-hectare estate emphasizes sustainable, low-intervention practices with traditional wine-making equipment.

Geography and Terroir:  Swartland, named “black land” in Afrikaans for its dark, fertile soils that once supported wild rhinoceroses, is better known today for its winemakers. Located about an hour north of Cape Town, this region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers moderated by cool Atlantic breezes. Paardeberg Mountain’s decomposed granite soils, mixed with clay and sand, dominate the landscape. This terroir is key to the wine’s character. The granite imparts a distinct minerality and structure, while the old vines’ deep roots extract nuanced flavors from the earth. Low annual rainfall (approximately 400 mm) stresses the unirrigated old bush vines, yielding small, intensely flavored berries. The vineyards, primarily Chenin Blanc with Cinsault and Grenache, occupy north-, east-, and south-facing slopes, benefiting from varied granite types, clay, and shale subsoils. Unlike the cooler Loire Valley in France, Swartland’s warmth adds a riper, more tropical edge to Chenin Blanc, but the elevation and ocean influence keep acidity lively. It’s this balance that makes Swartland Chenin a standout—elegant yet robust, with a sense of place that’s unmistakably South African.

The Wine:  Secateurs is named after the clipping tool that is used to shape Baddenhorst’s bushvines during the winter pruning and to pick the ripe grapes in summer.  The first Secateurs Chenin Blanc bottled under the Badenhorst Family Wines range was in 2009.

The Grape:  Secateurs, named for the pruning shears used on the estate’s bush vines, debuted as a Badenhorst Family Wines Chenin Blanc in 2009. Chenin Blanc, originating in France’s Loire Valley and now South Africa’s most planted white variety, excels in dry, textured styles. Its high natural acidity ensures freshness and aging potential, while Swartland’s warmth adds ripe fruit character without sacrificing elegance. The 2025 Secateurs is 100% Chenin Blanc from old vines, delivering exceptional concentration and complexity.

Production and Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested in multiple passes for optimal ripeness, with low yields (around 4 tons per hectare). Minimal intervention defines the approach: whole-cluster pressing, native yeast fermentation in concrete tanks and large foudres (no new oak), and approximately seven months aging on lees in neutral vessels for texture and creaminess. Gentle practices—occasional stirring, no fining or heavy filtration—preserve purity and natural evolution while producing a structure that’s both structured and approachable.  The result? A Chenin that’s textured yet crisp, with a grippy mouthfeel from skin contact and lees work. The 2025 vintage reflects a dry summer that enhanced ripeness while maintaining balanced acidity and a subtle minerality.

  • Grape – 100% Chenin Blanc from old, dry-farmed bush vines
  • Vintage – 2025
  • Alcohol content – 13.5%
  • Bottle – 750ml
  • Soils – Granite-dominated
  • Region – Swartland
  • Aging – Foudres and neutral vessels; stony mineral influence

Pairings – seafood, chicken, salads, creamy sauces

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  Medium- to full-bodied and dry, this Chenin offers vibrant acidity, refreshing tannic structure, and exceptional texture from lees aging and old-vine intensity. Alcohol at 13.5% provides warmth but never overwhelms. Aromas feature honey, orange blossom, and white stone fruits (peach, pear). The palate reveals pink grapefruit, quince, persimmon, melon, honeysuckle, and stony mineral notes, with layered complexity and a grippy, concentrated mid-palate leading to a bright, tangy finish. Versatile for seafood, poultry, or spicy dishes, it evolves beautifully in the glass.

Winemaker’s Notes:   The Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2025 is a benchmark South African white, delivering complexity, texture, and vibrancy.  The flavor profile is aromatic with honey, orange blossom, peach, pear, melon, and citrus notes, balanced by minerality and a fresh finish.  Aged in foudres, it displays a distinctive stony character, precise flavors of peach, pear, and pink grapefruit, substantial palate weight, and remarkable drinkability—a compelling introduction to Cape Chenin Blanc.

Wine #2.  Grande Alberone, Quintis Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy

Ginger’s Favorite Red:  Grande Alberone Quintus is a non-vintage, multi-regional Italian red blend that delivers bold complexity and approachability at an exceptional value.  This popular Italian wine is typically a blend of various red grapes, offering dark berries, cherries, and hints of chocolate on the nose, transitioning to flavors of dark fruits, spices, and velvety texture on the palate with a long, elegant finish.  Frequently available through supermarket chains such as Aldi, it showcases Italy’s diverse winemaking heritage through harmonious integration of fruit, spice, and structure.

The Producer:  Grande Alberone wines are produced by Provinco Italia, a Trentino-based subsidiary of Italian Wine Brands, one of Italy’s largest private wine groups. Provinco specializes in high-quality, accessible wines sourced from premier regions across the country, including Veneto, Trentino, Puglia, and Sicily. The focus is on sustainable practices, often incorporating organic grapes, and blending Italy’s extensive indigenous and international varieties to create expressive, personality-driven wines for large distribution outlets. Italian Wine Brands produces 24 proprietary brands of which some 80% is for export.  Winemaker Loris Delvai, who holds a degree in biology from University of Padua, collaborates closely with growers to select optimal parcels, drawing on deep terroir knowledge to craft acclaimed blends that have earned numerous gold medals and high scores; hence proving that thoughtful curation yields extraordinary results.

Geography and Terroir:  What sets Quintus apart is its embrace of Italy’s kaleidoscopic geography and terroir-driven nuances.  As a Vino d’Italia IGT, Quintus embraces Italy’s geographic diversity, sourcing grapes from northern continental climates (cool nights and brisk winds that preserve acidity) to southern Mediterranean zones (ripe, generous fruit from volcanic and sun-drenched soils). Key regions include Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Puglia, and Sicily, though specifics remain a guarded secret.  Soils vary from clay-rich for structure, sandy coastal for elegance, mineral hills for finesse, and volcanic for smoky depth. Annual rainfall varies from 600mm in the wetter north to drought-prone 300mm south, stressing vines to yield small, flavorful berries.

The Wine:  Grande Alberone Rosso is a popular Italian wine known for its bold, complex flavor profile, offering notes of dark berries, cherries, and hints of chocolate on the nose, transitioning to flavors of dark fruits, spices, and a velvety texture on the palate, with a long, elegant finish reminiscent of Amarone.

At its core, Quintus is a bold blend of emblematic red varieties: Primitivo (Zinfandel), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teroldego—all organically sourced.  I refer to the blend as a “mongered mutt” but an extremely loveable (or in this case drinkable) one.  The areas these grapes come from are Trentino-Alto Adige, Fiuli-Venezia Giulia. Veneto, Puglia, and Sicily.  This quartet, all organic-sourced, exemplifies Italy’s grape diversity. combining Primitivo’s boldness, Merlot’s plushness, Cabernet’s structure, and Teroldego’s earthy herbal notes for a robust yet versatile wine.

Production and Vinification:  Production for Quintus prioritizes purity and precision.  Grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness, with modest yields (6-8 tons/hectare) ensuring concentration. In Profinco’s state-of-the-art facilities, they are destemmed, gently crushed, and macerated (7-10 days) at controlled temperatures to extract color, aromas, and balanced tannins. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks (24-26°C) using selected yeasts, followed by malolactic conversion for silkiness and brief lees rest for creaminess. Aging lasts 4-6 months in predominantly second-use French oak barriques, adding subtle complexity without dominating fruit. The non-vintage designation allows annual selection of the finest parcels for consistency. Bottled with light filtration. Alcohol: 14.5%.

  • Grape – Blend of Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teroldego (organic).
  • Vintage – Non vintage
  • Alcohol – 14.5% ABV
  • Bottle – 750ml
  • Pairings – Roasted meats, tomato-based pasta, aged cheeses, chocolate desserts

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  Full-bodied with deep garnet hue, Quintus is dry, structured, and elegant, featuring firm yet integrated tannins, medium-plus acidity, and persistent length. Aromas evoke vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, clove, and subtle spice. The palate offers plush blackberry, cherry confit, raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness, evolving to savory baking spices, mineral streaks, and oak-kissed vanilla. Texturally silky mid-palate with grippy finish, it unfolds over time in the decanter. Versatile for pairing, it’s food-friendly without being fussy. Approachable young but capable of developing tertiary notes through 2030. Ideal slightly chilled in summer or at room temperature with winter dishes.

Winemaker’s Notes:  Full-bodied with deep garnet hue, Quintus is dry, structured, and elegant, featuring firm yet integrated tannins, medium-plus acidity, and persistent length. Aromas evoke vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, clove, and subtle spice. The palate offers plush blackberry, cherry confit, raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness, evolving to savory baking spices, mineral streaks, and oak-kissed vanilla. Texturally silky mid-palate with grippy finish, it unfolds over time in the decanter. Approachable young but capable of developing tertiary notes through 2030. Ideal slightly chilled in summer or at room temperature with winter dishes.

Swirl to release intense ruby depths. Nose: Vibrant red berries, dark chocolate, dried tobacco, with a whisper of clove. Palate: Full-bodied entry of blackberry and strawberry confit, mid-palate blooming with raisin, mocha, and balsamic earthiness. Firm tannins frame bright acidity, leading to a spicy, fruit-pure finish with lingering plum skin and vanilla. Balanced and inviting—chill slightly for summer, or room temp for winter roasts. Decant for 45 minutes.  Drink now through 2030 for peak harmony.

Wine #3.  2025 Club del Vino “Best of the Best” selection:  Domaine de Remizières, ‘Cuvée Emilie’, Hermitage, Rhone, France, 2019

Émilie and Christophe Desmeure are making some of the most compelling Hermitage produced today.  In fact, the 2019 Domaine des Remizières Hermitage Cuvée Émilie was rated the #1 of all 44 wines tasted by Club del Vino members in 2025.  This opulent Syah from the legendary Hermitage appellation offers an intense and complex experience that embodies the region’s storied prestige—bold yet refined, structured for the cellar yet whispering an invitation to sip now.

The Producer:  Domaine des Remizières, located in Tain-l’Hermitage, traces its origins to 1973 when Philippe Desmeure began selling grapes to the local cooperative.  The estate pivoted to estate-bottled wines in 1977, marking a bold step toward independence. Today, the 38-hectare estate—spanning Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Saint-Joseph—is led by Philippe’s daughter Émilie Desmeure, who oversees winemaking with a blend of tradition and intuition.  Her namesake cuvée debuted in 1995 as a tribute to her vision.  High-density plantings (over 10,000 vines/hectare) of 40-year-old bush-trained Syrah in key lieux-dits, such as Les Grandes Vignes, yield low quantities (27–40 hectoliters /ha) for concentration. With a focus on organic-leaning viticulture and hand labor on steep terraces, the Domaine’s philosophy emphasizes minimal intervention, sustainable practices, and plot-specific harvesting.  This has earned the winery Haute Valeur Environnementale (High Environmental Value) certification.

Geography and Terroir:  Hermitage, France’s most revered Syrah enclave, rises dramatically from the Rhône River’s east bank, just south of Valence. This compact 136-hectare AOC features precipitous, south-facing granite slopes (up to 30% gradient) that bask in Mediterranean sun while tempered by the fierce Mistral winds.

Terroir is Hermitage’s magic: decomposed granite soils, laced with quartz pebbles and mica schist, impart a signature minerality and firm structure—think “stony elegance” that elevates Syrah beyond a mere fruit bomb. Les Grandes Vignes, at the hill’s base, offers slightly clay-influenced granitic sand for opulent ripeness, while higher plots add tension. Low rainfall (500-600mm annually) stresses the vines, fostering deep roots and small berries bursting with phenolic intensity. This interplay—sun-drenched exposure meeting wind-whipped resilience—yields wines of profound depth, where earth and ether converge.  The 2019 vintage benefited from a warm, dry season with cool nights, delivering ripe fruit and preserved acidity.

The Wine:  Domaine des Remizières Hermitage “Cuvée Emilie” is a stunning expression of Syrah from one of the most prestigious appellations in the Northern Rhone.  This wine presents a deep profile with rich aromas of dark berries, such as blackberries and blackcurrants, alongside hints of spices, tobacco, and sutle earthy notes.  On the palate, it is full-bodied with refined tannins, virant acidity, and a remarable balance of power and finesse.  The wine’s depth is complemented by a long, elegant finish.  A perfect match for roasted meats, game, or rich savory dishes, “Cuvee Emilie” is a wine that promises both immediate enjoyment and excellent aging potential.

Brought up all in new oak, the 2019 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie reveals a dense purple color as well as cassis and blackberry fruits, notes of scorched earth, graphite, crushed stone, and burning embers, full body, ripe, building tannins, and a great finish. It needs 4-5 years to integrate its oak and should have 25+ years of overall longevity.

The Grape:  Syrah reigns supreme in Hermitage and old vines amplify complexity.  The 2019 Cuvee Emilie is comprised of  100% Syrah grapes sourced from two prestigious Hermitage lieux-dits:  Les Grandes Vignes (40-year-old vines on a granite hillside) and Les Rocoules (80+ year-old-vines on alluvial soils). Syrah thrives on granite, evolving from peppery youth to savory maturity. Émilie’s selection of fruit from prime parcels ensures vibrancy.  In 2019’s benevolent climate, the Syrah grape ripened to 14%-14.5% ABV with silky skins, delivering ripe fruit and preserved acidity.

Production and Vinification:  Production at Remizières is a labor of precision, starting in the vineyard with hand-harvesting over multiple passes to capture phenolic ripeness. Yields are rigorously controlled, with manual sorting at the winery eliminating all but the finest berries. Émilie favors reasoned sulfites and biodynamic impulses, fostering microbial diversity for authentic ferments.

Hand-harvested grapes undergo rigorous sorting and full destemming. Cold pre-fermentation maceration (5–7 days) extracts aromas gently.  Alcoholic fermentation, sparked by indigenous yeasts, lasts 10-15 days in concrete and stainless-steel vats, daily punch-downs/pump-overs (28–30°C), and extended post-fermentation maceration (up to 30+ days). Malolactic fermentation softens acidity. This hands-on approach, rooted in the domaine’s 50-year evolution, yields wines of power and poise.

Aging occurs 15–18 months in 80–100% new French oak barriques, with lees stirring for creaminess. Minimal fining and filtration preserve authenticity.

  • Grape – 100% Syrah
  • Vintage – 2019
  • Appellation – Hermitage AOC, Northern Rhône
  • Aging – Aged 15-18 months in 80% new, French oak barrels
  • Alcohol – 14.5%

Aging potential – Cellar 4–5 years for integration; enjoy through 2040+

Pairing – red meats (grilled steaks), game, lamb, charcuterie, mushroom risotto.

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  This 2019 Cuvée Émilie is a full-bodied powerhouse cloaked in dense purple hues that hint at its depth. Aromas of cassis, blackberry, scorched earth, graphite, licorice, toasted clove, and subtle oak. The palate layers black fruits with smoky, mineral, and floral elements (mint, mesquite), evolving to olive and leather notes. Long, graphite-edged finish. Ripe, building tannins provide architecture without austerity—supple now, yet promising evolution. Medium-high acidity cuts through richness, ensuring freshness amid concentration. Texturally, it’s broad-shouldered with a velvety mid-palate, finishing with graphite-edged persistence (45+ seconds). Decant young bottles 2–4 hours; serve at 15–16°C.  Cellar 5-7 years for silkier tannins; peak drinking through 2040.

Winemaker’s Notes: Full-bodied wine with a lot of sweetness, good acidity, and some pleasant bitterness. Color is Steady.  Tannins are described as supple and soft tannic. On the nose, red fruits aromas when it is young, spices aromas after a few years. The wine is described as having an inky, licorice scent. On the palate, this Syrah offers flavors of boysenberry, black fig, and black currant, with hints of mesquite, vanilla, and clove. The wine also has a smoky, earthy undertone. It is expected to improve with cellaring.

Domaine des Remizières Hermitage when young, should be decanted at least 2-4 hours, give or take, allowing the wines to soften and open their perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment.  Domaine des Remizières is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift.

 

-Wine #4. Ginger’s pick:  Specialty Selection Ice-wine Vidal Reserve, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 2021

This Ice-wine is produced from grapes naturally frozen on the vine in cold climates, concentrating sugars and resulting in an intensely sweet dessert wine. Sourced from the Niagara region in Ontario, Canada, this reserve offering exhibits high viscosity, a deep golden hue, and prominent fruity notes of peach, lemon, and toffee. Served chilled, it delivers a balanced profile where pronounced sweetness is offset by vibrant acidity.

The Producer:  Specialty Selection is a curated collection from Andrew Peller Ltd., one of Canada’s largest and most respected wine producers. With flagship operations in the Niagara Peninsula, the company upholds rigorous VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) standards.  Their portfolio includes icons like Peller Estates and Wayne Gretzky Estates, but the Specialty Selection line spotlights premium, limited-production wines like this Vidal Reserve—sourced from select partner vineyards to showcase peak quality.

The grapes for this Ice-wine hail from mature Vidal vines in Niagara-on-the-Lake, planted in the 1980s and beyond, where low yields (often 1-2 tons per acre) ensure intensity. These “reserve” berries are rigorously selected: only the healthiest clusters, enduring multiple freeze-thaw cycles, make the cut. Peller’s winemakers, led by experts like Dr. Wendy Ing from the Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Institute, emphasize sustainable practices such as herbicide-free cultivation, cover cropping, and nocturnal hand-harvesting.

Geography and Terroir:  Nestled on the southern shores of Lake Ontario, the Niagara Peninsula spans 150 km of rolling vineyards, with the sub-appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake being Icewine central. This VQA zone, just minutes from the thundering falls, boasts a continental climate moderated by the lake’s thermal mass: balmy summers (up to 30°C) ripen grapes slowly, while brutal winters plunge to -10°C or lower, ideal for natural freeze. The Escarpment—a limestone ridge—shields vines from harsh northwest winds, creating micro-pockets of “lake effect” warmth that delay dormancy and concentrate flavors.

Terroir here is a glacial gift: clay-loam soils over ancient limestone bedrock retain moisture in summer and drain well in winter, imparting minerality and structure. Sandy subsoils add finesse, while the lake’s humidity fosters noble rot-like dehydration without Botrytis risk. Annual rainfall (800-900mm) and diurnal swings (15-20°C day-night) build acidity, essential for balancing Icewine’s sugars. In challenging years like 2024’s variable frost, only the hardiest sites produce.

The Wine:  Ice-wine Vidal has a beautiful pale gold color with high viscosity (10.5% ABV, but plenty of RS).  The nose has intense aromas of honey, apricot, orange peel, candied/sugared citrus rings, white blossom and yellow apple.  The palate is sweet with high acidity and a full body.  Rich flavors of honey, apricot, orange zest and a tropical note like candied pineapple combine for a medium-length finish that is silky smooth.

The Grape:  Vidal Blanc, a resilient French hybrid, bred in the 1930s for Cognac, found its calling in Canada’s cold climate after arriving in the 1940s. Thick-skinned and resilient, it withstands -25°C freezes without splitting, It accounts for the majority (80%) of Ontario’s icewine production, achieving high sugar levels (35–40° Brix) while retaining sharp acidity.

Production and Vinification:  Ice-wine production is extreme oenology.  Grapes remain on the vine until temperatures drop consistently to –8°C to –12°C, typically in December or January. Harvest occurs at night, followed by immediate whole-cluster pressing to yield minimal (1 glass/vine), highly concentrated juice, yielding just 5-10% juice. Fermentation in stainless steel is slow and cool, stopping naturally to retain substantial residual sugar (approximately 220 g/L).  Bottled in spring, it’s unfiltered to preserve aromatics—a testament to Peller’s cool-climate mastery.

  • Grape – 100% Vidal
  • Vintage – 2021
  • Region – Lake Ontario, Niagara region
  • Appellation: VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) – Niagara -on-the-Lake
  • Alcohol – 10.5%
  • Aging Potential: Drink now through 2035; develops honeyed complexity with time

Pairings: Blue cheese, fruit tarts, almond cake, dark chocolate, or spicy dishes

Key Characteristics and Tasting Notes:  This golden-hued Reserve is viscous yet lively: full-bodied with 10.5% ABV, it coats the palate like liquid silk, balanced by piercing acidity that prevents cloying. The profile is a tropical reverie: ripe stone fruits lead, laced with floral honeysuckle and citrus zest. Aromas evoke peach jam, mango, and candied orange peel, with undertones of nutmeg and wet stone.  Texturally, it’s ideal for sipping chilled (8-10°C) in small glasses. Versatile: elevates blue cheese, sorbets, or spicy Asian fare. Cellar 5-10 years for honeyed tertiary notes; sustainable viticulture adds ethical allure.

Chill and swirl the deep amber elixir. Nose: Explosive honeyed peach, ripe pineapple, orange blossom, with flinty minerality. Palate: Lush entry of mango and apricot confit, mid-palate blooming with tangerine, butterscotch, and subtle spice; vibrant acidity slices through, finishing with lingering grapefruit pith and candied ginger. Harmonious and hedonistic—pour sparingly for dessert. The sweet wine is sold in a skinny, half-size bottle (375 mL rather than the standard 750 mL), and typically served in portions of 1.5-2 ounces. Drink now through 2035.

6. CV Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 15 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional.

The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table.

In the final results, Domaine de Remizières, Hermitage ‘Cuvée Emilie’, France, 2019 was the Best wine, while Grande Alberone, Vino Rosso D’Italia, Tuscany, Italy was the Best Buy.

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Tasting 283 November 18, 2025 Pinot Noir

Tasting 283 November 18, 2025  Pinot Noir

         Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this blind tasting is to compare and contrast Pinot Noir wines produced in different regions of the world. The presentersm have chosen wines that are distinctive, from the same vintage, in the same price range. The wines were served in a random order all at the same time. At the end, all participants ranked the wines before revealing them and their prices. The wines  are from the following regions: Argentina (Uco Valley), Chile (Limari Valley), New Zealand (Malborough) and USA (Virginia).

Type of tasting: Blind

Presenters: Erico Silva and Ricardo Santiago

Participants: S. Ardila; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; C. and A. Perazza; J. and Redwood; J. Requena; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Vega; and Marilda Averbug (guest). 

These are the wines:

  1. Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022
  2. Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, Valle de Uco, Mendoza,  2022
  3. Ankida Ridge, Pinot Noir, Virginia, 2022
  4. Concha y Toro, Amelia, Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari,  2022
  1. Menu
  • Calamari fritti with mild fra-diavolo sauce
  • Ravioli de Vitello in aurora sauce
  • Salmone alla griglia con funghi
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.
  1. Brief History of Pinot Noir Around the World

Yacsire Cutler and Orlando Mason presented an excellent brief history of Pinot Noir for their Tasting No 277 presentation, which we are including here for context and reference:

Pinot Noir is one of the oldest and most celebrated grape varieties in the world, known for producing elegant, complex red wines. It is believed to be over 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest known grape varieties still in use. It likely originated in northeastern France, possibly around Burgundy, and there are records of being cultivated during the first century A.D.  The name “Pinot” comes from the French word “pin” (pine), referencing the grape’s tightly clustered, pinecone-shaped bunches. “Noir” means black, referring to the color of the grape.

The Burgundy region of France is therefore considered the birthplace of Pinot Noir. Monks in the Middle Ages, were crucial in refining the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy, identifying the best vineyard sites. Burgundy’s deep association with the concept of terroir—how soil, climate, and vineyard location affect the wine—was largely shaped by Pinot Noir cultivation.

Pinot Noir has been know as known to be a “temperamental” grape. It prefers cool to moderate climates, heat can mute its finesse and freshness. It is difficult to cultivate and vinify consistently due to its delicacy and susceptibility to mutation and rot. Because of its thin skin it doesn’t stand up as well to high heat, too much sun, hail or too much rain as hardier, thicker-skinned grapes; in addition, the grapes in the clusters are close together, making them more prone to mildew and rot in very damp conditions. Its prone to millerandage (uneven grape development).  Pinot noir is highly reflective of the soil and climate where it is grown (especially in Burgundy).

Pinot Noir primary flavors are red fruit – cherry, strawberry, raspberry. It often shows earthy, floral, and herbal tones—such as mushroom, rose petal, forest floor, tea leaves, clove and cinnamon.  Younger Pinot is bright and juicy.  Aged Pinot Noir: Can develop complex flavors like dried fruit, leather, game, and truffle.

Pinot Noir wines are generally light to medium bodied, low to medium tannins with a silky or soft texture, and naturally high acidity which helps it age and pair well with food. Alcohol content is typically moderate (12-14.5%.) Its color is pale to medium ruby or garnet. It is one of the lightest red wines in appearance.

In the 19th–20th centuries Pinot Noir began spreading to other parts of the world. Globally, Pinot Noir is one of the major red grape varieties, but it ranks behind more widely planted and robust varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In total plantation, Pinot Noir is about 1/3 of Cabernet Sauvignon and less than Merlot, Tempranillo and Shiraz.”

The top dozen Pinot Noir producing countries by area, in 2023 are: France; USA; Germany; Italy; Australia; New Zealand; Chile; Switzerland; Romania; Argentina; Moldova; and South Africa.

  1. The Countries for this Tasting

We have selected wines from three small producing countries New Zealand, Argentina, and Chile, and the United States. In the case of the United States, we selected a wine from Virginia, an exceedingly small producer of Pinot Noir.

NEW ZEALAND – The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is relatively young, but it’s a story of rapid rise and global acclaim. In just a few decades, New Zealand has established itself as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the Southern Hemisphere, known for purity, elegance, and vibrant fruit.  The earliest vine plantings in New Zealand go back to the 1800s, brought by European settlers, but it didn’t catch on due to lack of wine infrastructure, limited viticultural knowledge, and inappropriate vineyard sites. It is only in the 1970s, that the modern New Zealand wine industry began to take shape, particularly in regions like Martinborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago, where the first producer recognized that the cool, dry climate and free-draining soils mirrored conditions in Burgundy The current trends are: greater focus on single-vineyard bottlings and sustainable practices; use of native yeasts, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal intervention; and increasing comparisons to Burgundy, especially from Martinborough and Central Otago.

New Zealand Pinot Noirs are noted for bright cherry and berry fruit, silky tannins, balanced acidity and transparency of terroir. In particular Central Otago, with its high-altitude vineyards, continental climate, and dramatic temperature swings, is considered ideal for Pinot Noir wines that are characterized as bold, structured and fruit forward.

ARGENTINA – Pinot Noir in Argentina is a niche production, with about 2,000 hectares of cultivation. Making great Pinot Noir is often seen as the holy grail of winemaking, a quest that Argentine Producers have been chasing for decades. The earliest Pinot Noir success in Argentina was actually as sparkling wine and many of the Pinot Noir clones available in Argentina are Champagne clones used for sparkling wine rather than still reds. Since the 2000’s producers have changed their genetic selection and red Pinot Noir wines have improved greatly. The best Pinot Noir comes from the cooler regions of high altitude Uco Valley (notably Galtallary) and low altitude Rio Negro [Barnes, 2022].

UNITED STATES – Pinot Noir was first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th century, primarily by European immigrants bringing vine cuttings with them. Initial plantings were scattered and experimental, and the grape didn’t gain immediate traction due to its sensitivity to climate and soil.  In the early 20th century, California saw some of the earliest serious attempts at cultivating Pinot Noir, particularly in areas like the Santa Cruz Mountains and later in Sonoma and Napa. However, it wasn’t until after Prohibition that efforts really picked up again. A major turning point came in the 1960’s when planting Pinot Noir began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  By the 1980’s and 1990’s, both Oregon and cooler parts of California were producing world-class Pinot Noir. The grape became known for its elegance, complexity, and expression of terroir. American Pinot Noirs gained further credibility on the world stage after Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve placed well in international tastings. Pinot Noir is now one of the most prestigious and sought-after varietals in the U.S. Willamette Valley is widely considered one of the top Pinot-producing regions in the world, and California continues to innovate with diverse styles ranging from bold to delicate.  Stylistically, these wines range from types similar to Burgundy’s (leaner, with firmer tannins and earth and mineral accents) to plusher and riper versions with rich dark fruit and spice notes, and styles in between.

Specifically Carneros covers an area of 90 square miles on the southernmost foothills of the Mayacamas and Sonoma mountain ranges. This location sits between America’s two most famous wine-producing regions – the eastern half in Napa, the western half in Sonoma. In the 1880’s the Stanly Ranch in Carneros, with over 300 acres, was one of the largest vineyards in California and had significant Pinot Noir plantings..  The topography here – and the cool, windy mesoclimate it creates – is intimately connected with the style of wine produced here. This gives Carneros a much cooler, wetter climate than that found further north in the sheltered valleys. Carneros Pinot Noir has traditionally been lighter and tighter than those from other Californian regions, with notes of berries and herbs, rather than anything deeper and more opulent.

CHILE –  Pinot Noir likely arrived in Chile in the 19th century, brought by European settlers. However, it was not widely planted or seriously cultivated mainly because Chile’s central wine regions were too warm for Pinot to thrive. In the 1990s, Chilean winemakers began exploring coastal regions, realizing the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and Humboldt Current could support delicate grapes like Pinot Noir. Regions like Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley (especially Leyda), Limarí Valley, Bio-Bío and Itata in the south began to produce higher-quality, cooler-climate Pinot Noir.  Winemakers started to use better clones of Pinot Noir (especially Dijon clones from Burgundy); implement lower yields and more precise vineyard management; and experiment with oak aging, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention techniques.

The Leyda Valley region enjoys the effects of the cold Humboldt Current of the Pacific Ocean. The first vignerons appeared in Leyda in the late 1990s, attracted by a terroir that was almost perfect for the production of premium grapes, save for the lack of an abundant source of water for irrigation. A significant investment by a wine-producing family in the area saw the construction of a pipeline five miles (8km) long to channel water from the Maipo River in the south.The close proximity to the coast is what is driving growers to Leyda. Cold ocean breezes and morning fog moderate the overall temperatures, and the valley is therefore significantly cooler than its low latitude might suggest. These cool temperatures are complemented by warm sunshine during the long growing season, letting grapes ripen fully and develop complexity while still retaining acidity.  Leyda Valley’s soils are largely clay and loam over a granite base with moderate drainage. These low-fertility soils are good for the production of premium grapes because they make the vines struggle for survival. This results in vines that put all their energy into producing small, concentrated grapes rather than leafy foliage. Wines produced from these grapes tend to be structured and complex and Leyda Pinot Noir wines style is bright red fruit, floral, and elegant.

  1. The Wines

Wine #1. Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022, New Zealand

Marlborough Pinot Noir is produced in areas such as the Wairau and Southern Valleys, which feature varied soils and a climate that is both cool and sunny. The cool but high-sunshine climate with cool nights is ideal for Pinot Noir’s complex flavor development. Soils vary by subregion, including gravelly riverbed soils in the Wairau Valley, and heavy clay soils in the Southern Valleys, which contribute to different wine styles.

The ProducerCloudy Bay is a New Zealand winery founded in 1985, famous for putting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the world map. Located in the Wairau Valley, the winery has a diverse portfolio that now includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pelorus sparkling wines, and is a part of the LVMH group.

The wine –  Vineyard & winemaking: this wine comes from the cool clay soils and rolling north facing slopes of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys region. The aged alluvial gravels and dense clay subsoils balance drainage and water availability to yield the region’s best Pinot Noir grapes. The key vineyards for this variety are Mustang, Delta and Barracks.

The fruits are sorted using an optical sorter before being gravity fed into open topped tanks. The skins were gently plunged with an average of 21 days of skin contact, followed by malolactic fermentation. Maturation in French oak for 11 months, of which 30% were new.

Technical data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 13.5%.

Producer’s Tasting Notes: Open and expressive on the nose, with notes of wild hedgerow fruits, crushed rose petals and sun-warmed red cherry. The palate is finely tuned, with silky tannins and a pure dart of acidity framing and balancing out a core of summer berries, soft spices and a touch of biscuity vanilla. Long on the finish, this wine evokes warm summer evenings, strawberries nestled under shaded leaves and the lingering scent of barbecue smoke.

Wine #2 Argentina – Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, Valle de Uco, 2022,  Mendoza, Argentina

Jairo Sanchez and Jorge Requena provided an excellent overview of the Uco Valley region for Tasting No 254  – Valle del Uco, which you can find below.

Valle de Uco is located 88 km to the south of the City of Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes, the Uco Valley spans the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The wines from there are often labelled with one of these three place names.

Whereas in 2005 the valley had 16,800ha under vine, today it contains 28,600ha, representing 19% of all the vineyards in Mendoza. Almost one in five bottles produced in Mendoza, comes from the valley.

Because the region is so large, in recent years producers have been carrying out detailed analysis to identify smaller Geographic Indications (GIs). Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes and San Pablo are some of the most famous, together with Gualtallary, and all contain vineyards set at altitudes of between 900m and 1,500m. Irrigation water comes from the glaciers above, mainly channelled by the Tunuyán and Las Tunas rivers.

The climate is continental: dry with plenty of sun, low rainfall, cold winters and warm summers with a large thermal range. The point of difference is the altitude, which defines the temperature (on average, it drops 1°C every 150m higher up you go) and the cool climate has lured many producers away from warmer areas further down. All these different factors result in expressive, tense reds and vibrant whites.

The proximity and exposure to the Andes make for alluvial, rocky soils with widely varying mixtures of sand, limestone and clay in unique combinations that produce memorable wines. Within the 50km (30 miles) Valle de Uco region there are smaller wine regions with slightly different wine styles: Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos.

Tupungato is well-known among collectors because of an unofficial growing area called Gualtallary with calcareous soils. You’ll find fresher styles of Malbec, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc because vineyards are as high as 5,250 feet (1600 meters).

The Gualtellary subregion of Tupungato is becoming one of the most famous subregions of Argentina. Some of the most expensive and idolized wines come from Gualtellary, which is quite remarkable considering that there were barely any vines here 30 years ago.  It produces some of the best white wines in Argentina. Red wines, from Pinot Noir to Cabernet Sauvignon are also making waves and  Gualtellary is now equally as well known for its incredibly fresh and vibrant red wines. The subregion altitude varies from 1080 to 1600 m.a.s.l. However, it isn’t  just the cooler temperature that makes Gualtellary distinctive – but also the soils. Pockets of calcareous deposits which are considered the holy grail of wine terroir, have been discovered in Gualtellary [ Barnes, 2022]. 

The Producer: Domaine Nico was founded by Dr. Laura Catena (of the Catena wine producing family) to produce high-altitude Pinot Noir wines, named after her daughter Nicola. The winery is known for its single-parcel vineyards (Grand Père and Grand Mère in Villa Bastías, Histoire d’A and La Savante in Gualtallary, and Le Paradis in Gualtallary Alto)  all within the Tupungato region of the Mendoza province in Argentina.

The WineVineyard & winemaking: The vineyard soils are described as follows: depths of 0-40 cm: loose, sandy, loamy soil; between depths of 40-60 cm: reddish-hued compact calcium carbonate. Between depths of 60-110 cm: 90% boulder debris 5 cm in thickness, with dispersed calcium carbonate. Vineyard located in Gualtallary, Tupungato, elevation of 1450 m.s.n.m. (4757 feet). Fermentation is in roll-fermentor and 24 hL stainless steel tanks with 50% whole cluster. Fermented at an average temperature of 22ºC  for 12 days. Aged 12 months in French oak (100% François Frères), 15% new barrels, 35% second-use and 50% third-use barrels.

Technical Data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 12.5%

Producer Tasting Notes: Red-mineral fruit, with slight reduction and a touch of citrus. Orange peel. Earthy character. High Acidity and low alcohol content. Vertical wine. Layered tannins.

Wine #3 – Ankida Ridge, Pinot Noir, Virginia, 2022, USA

Pinot Noir production in Virginia is a challenging niche, limited by the state’s warm and humid climate, which requires careful site selection and diligent vineyard management. Producers often choose high-elevation sites in the Blue Ridge or Shenandoah Valley and sometimes harvest early to make sparkling wine. Despite the difficulties, Virginia winemakers like Ankida Ridge and 12 Ridges are creating high-quality, nuanced Pinot Noirs that are gaining recognition for their acidity and structure.

The producerAnkida Ridge is a high-elevation, family-owned micro-boutique vineyard located on the Blue Ridge Mountains in Amherst County, Virginia.  Known for its stunning mountain views and unique cool-climate microclimate that produces distinctive, high-quality wines, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is also known for its environmentally sensitive viticulture practices, such as using sheep for vineyard management.

The WineVineyard & winemaking: the wine maker describes the soil of the vineyard, located in a steep slope on Chestnut Ridge, at a high elevation (around 1,800 feet), as weathered igneous rock of charnockite granite containing a complexity of quartz, pyroxene, feldspar converting to clay and other minerals. This wine is aged for 11 months in French oak barrels. (30% new French oak, with the remaining in neutral French oak).

Technical Data:

–  100% Pinot Noir

–  Alcohol: 13.8.

Producer Tasting Notes: Balanced acids, fruits and tannins, elegant, luxurious mouthfeel, lightly spiced, dark fruit, tea. Wild blackberries, dark cherries, vanilla, forest floor.

Wine #4. Concha y Toro, Amelia, Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari,  2022, Chile

Pinot Noir in Chile’s Limarí Valley benefits from a unique climate and soil combination: coastal breezes, morning fog, and a semi-desert climate. The cooling breeze of the Pacific Ocean doesn’t directly affect the dry and hot weather of the Limari wine region, but it influences the vineyards through the Camanchaca, a cooling fog that, every morning, enters the valley from the west and retreats as the sun. The soil is very rich in minerals, consisting mainly of clay, silt and chalk. Vine rows are mainly watered with a drip irrigation system.

The producer: Viña Concha y Toro, founded in 1883,  is Latin America’s leading producer and occupies an outstanding position among the world’s most important wine companies, currently exporting to 140 countries worldwide. Uniquely, it owns more than 12,000 hectares of prime vineyards in Chile, Argentina and the United States.

The wineVineyard & winemaking: The wine is produced from fruits from the Quebrada Seca vineyard (Block 5 and Block 15) which is situated on the northern bank of the Limarí River at an altitude of 190m above sea level, just 22 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The soils are clay and rich in calcium carbonate; the temperatures are cool and the mornings cloudy, so the fruit ripens slowly, producing fresher wines. Block 5 is associated with the Santa Cristina soil series. They are of colluvial origin with angular stones and a high percentage of rusted iron-rich red clay and calcium carbonate in the subsoil. Block 15 is associated with the Quebrada Seca soil series. These are of colluvial origin, without angular stones and have a high percentage of rusted iron-rich clay and calcium carbonate. It has a semi-arid coastal climate. The proximity to the ocean and the cool sea breezes that blow directly towards the valley cool off and moderate the temperatures at the vineyard and this, together with the morning fog, results in slow, prolonged fruit ripening, making for fresher wines.

The clusters are hand-harvested and selected. The grapes are carried to stainless steel tanks and 50% go into the tank as whole clusters, while the rest are carefully destemmed so as not to crush or break the berries. The grapes are gravity-fed into the tanks, avoiding the use of pumps. The temperature is reduced to 7°C-8°C and the grapes undergo a cold soak for 7 days with daily punch-downs in order to achieve an even temperature and delicate extraction. As the batches are fermenting, the wine is racked off its skins and into a selection of barrels, where the malolactic fermentation takes place naturally. The wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (10% new and 90% second use).

Technical Data:

  • 100% Pinot Noir
  • Alcohol: 14.5%

Producer Tasting Notes: Intense ruby red colour. This wine is complex with multiple layers led by red cherries and a hint of black tea leaves. It combines the structure of red clay very well with the minerality of the soil. It’s long and refreshing on the palate, with a very persistent finish.

 

  1. CV Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 17 participants rating them in order of preference. Two wines were considered either very good or excellent by the majority of the participants, while the other two were rated from mediocre to very good by the majority. The overall conclusion is that Concha y Toro, ‘Amelia’ Pinot Noir, Valle del Limari, 2022, CH was, by far, the Best Wine, followed by Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2022, NZ.

References

https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/pinot-noir-of-marlborough-on-the-rise/#:~:text=Marlborough%2C%20New%20Zealand%20is%20a%20rising%20star,gravels%20in%20a%20slightly%20cooler%2C%20windier%20climate

https://www.lvmh.com/en/our-maisons/wines-spirits/cloudy-bay#:~:text=The%20layout%20features%20a%20comprehensive,to%20alcoholic%20fermentation%20in%20September

https://winetrailsandwanderlust.com/2025/04/30/pinot-noir-virginias-most-underrated-grape/

Barnes, A. The South America Wine Guide, 2022.

Wineries:

https://www.cloudybay.com/en-us/our-wines/pinot-noir/pinot-noir-2022/

https://domainenico.com/en/la-savante/

https://ankidaridge.com/explore-our-wines/

https://conchaytoro.com/vinos/amelia-pinot-noir/

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Something to think about (an heresy statement in a Wine Club):

The finest wine is made better by the company it keeps.

.o0o.

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Tasting 282 October 28, 2025 Wines from Greece

Club del Vino

Tasting No  – October 28, 2025 

Wines from Greece  

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA 

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this open tasting is to delve into the wines from Greece and also re-examine the information about their production and characteristics. The Club has celebrated two tastings of these wines – in October 2011 and in February 2013. After more than ten years, there have been advances in the wine production that
deserve to be updated. 

Type of tasting: open 

Presenters: Jaime Estupiñan 

Participants: (to be completed after the meeting) 

These are the wines: 

  • Douloufakis – Vidiano Crete, 2024 
  • GWC Assyrtiko Santorini, 2024 
  • Xinomavro Ramnista, 2019 
  • Ktima Mitravela Agiorgitiko, 2023 

The Menu 

  • Greek salad with feta cheese. 
  • Seafood. 
  • Grilled lamb chops with brown sauce and vegetables. 
  • Dessert, tea or coffee.  
  1. Overview of Wine Production in Greece 

Highlights 

Thousands of years ago, the Greeks introduced viticulture to much of Europe; today, the world is discovering Greek wines all over again. The Greek wine industry is experiencing an exciting and radical transformation, thanks to international investment and a new generation of winemakers well-versed in the world’s best winemaking practices.  

Greece has arguably one of the longest wine histories in the world as wine has always been an integral part of Greek culture since antiquity. Greece might not be the first country to produce wine, but what can be attributed to Ancient Greece is the development of a culture encompassing all aspects of wine: vine growing, wine production, legislation, trading and, of course, the art of consuming wine.  

Wine makers who have studied in Bordeaux, Burgundy, California and Australia are leading the changes in the Greek wine industry, not by attempting to make international grape varieties work in Greece’s difficult terrain, but by focusing on the indigenous grapes that have succeeded there for millennia. The wine produced from these indigenous varietals represent the important wine industry of Greece. Some international varietals are cultivated but they represent a minimal part of the wine production here and are mainly used for blending with the local varietals. 

Despite their huge heritage, the wines of Greece can promote themselves solely by virtue of their present attributes and not past glories. In the last three decades, a wind of change has been blowing through Greek wine production, turning a relatively traditional agricultural sector into a cutting-edge entity in today’s wine world. Greek producers have invested heavily in people, education, know-how and technology, starting a steep learning curve. The level of quality of wines currently coming out of Greece can match any other country, but there are several other features that make the Greek wines stand apart. 

Greece’s vine production area is spread across various regions, with a total of approximately 64,000 hectares dedicated to wine grapes. The country’s wine production has seen fluctuations in volume, with an average annual output of around 2.3 million hectoliters in 2020 and 1.7 million hectoliters in 2021. However, challenging weather conditions have led to a significant decrease in production in 2023. Despite these challenges, the Greek wine market continues to grow, with a projected market value of around US$665.3 million by 2029. The industry is also benefiting from the country’s economic recovery and a vibrant tourism sector, where visitors actively seek local wines. 

Greece produces more white than red wine, with the latter accounting for just a third of total production. An impressive 90% of plantings consist of the country’s rich stock of indigenous grape varieties (Greece has approximately 200 grape varieties). 

The most important indigenous grape varieties include: Assyrtiko, Moschofilero and Vidiano, which produce elegant and aromatic white wines; Mavrodaphne, which is the source of a luscious, fortified dessert wine; and Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro, red grapes that thrive on Greece’s south and northern mainland. Other white grapes of note are Lagorthi; Malagousia,  Savatiano and Roditis, while other indigenous red grapes include Kotsifali; Liatiko; Mandilaria; Limnio; Xinomavro; and Mavrotragano. Naturally, these Greek wines make excellent pairings with Mediterranean cuisine and simple grilled foods. 

Retsina is an ancient style of wine that is influenced by the presence of pine sap or resin. For a long time, Retsina was synonymous with Greek wine, and many still assume that all Greek wine tastes like Retsina, which is not the case. Retsina is just one style of wine within a sea of more familiar wines that Greece produces. 

The U.S. is the world’s second-largest export market for Greek wine, and the caliber of bottles sent this way continues to climb. 

Wine Regions and Denominations 

The very first thing to understand is that Greece is much more diverse in terms of climate than most people realize. The country has everything – from arid Mediterranean islands to wet, mountainous pine forests that receive snowfall in the winter. With such a diverse climate, you can expect Greek wines to be quite varied as well. So, one of the best ways to wrap your head around Greek wine is to split the country up into four overarching wine zones based on their climates. 

Greece has many regions, which can essentially be divided up into four primary climatic zones

♦Northern Greece: Wet climate; Epirus, Macedonia and Thrace. 

White Grapes: Malagousia and Assyrtiko, often blended with Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.  

Red Grapes: Mostly Xinomavro with a little bit of Merlot, Limnio, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Xinomavro is being hailed as “the Barolo of Greece,” where it grows in the regions of Naoussa and Amyndeo. This wine can taste strikingly similar to Nebbiolo (hence the correlation with Barolo), with dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and occasionally subtle tomato notes.  

♦Aegean Islands: Arid climate, Mediterrarean islands of Santorini, Samos, Límnos, etc. 

White GrapesAssyrtiko (Santorini), Muscat Blanc (Samos), AthiriMalvasia (called Monemvasia). Santorini, a volcanic island, is the homeland of Greece’s most famous white wine, Assyrtiko.  
Red Grapes: Limnio (Límnos), Mandilaria (Paros), and Mavrotragano

♦Central Greece: Modulating Mediterranean climate; Central Greece, Thessaly, and Attica. 

White Grapes: A lot of Savatiano and a little bit of Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Athiri, Begleri, and Chardonnay. 

Red Grapes: A lot of Xinomavro and a little bit of AgiorgitikoKrasatoStavrotoLimnionaVradiano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. 

♦Southern Greece: Hot stable Mediterranean climate; Crete, Peloponnese, and Kefalonia.  

White Grapes: Moschofilero, Muscat Blanc, Robola (Kefalonia), Vidiano (Crete), and Roditis

Red Grapes: Agiorgitiko (Peloponnese), Mavrodaphne (Kefalonia; Peloponnese), Kotsifali (Crete), Liatiko (Crete),
Mandilaria (Crete), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon.  

♦Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).  

The origins of Greek PDO and PGI wine designations date back to the late 20th century, when Greece emerged as a serious player in the wine world. The introduction of these designations aimed to reinforce the concepts of authenticity and typicality, with specific geographical boundaries and varietal compositions set. PDO Wines of Greece are produced in historically significant regions and adhere to strict production methods and regulations. These wines must meet quality standards that demonstrate the unique characteristics and traditions of the region. PGI Wines of Greece are made from grapes grown within a broader geographical area and may use a wider range of grape varieties and winemaking techniques. They often showcase regional character, while allowing for more experimentation and diversity in style. Depending on their geographical breadth, PGI zones are divided into three levels: PGI Regional Wines; PGI District Wines; and PGIArea Wines.The regulations governing these designations einsure that Greek wines maintain the identity
and quality reflecting the country’s rich wine
making heritage. 

The Best Wines from Greece – a summary 

Greek wine is ancient, and bottles made from the country’s 300-plus indigenous grapes are food-friendly with serious value for money. Why, then, aren’t more people drinking them? 

Some think the problem is linguistic: the names of Greek wine varieties intimidate many Anglophones. “If you look at the labels, they can be quite confusing, and it’s hard to decipher what you’re looking at,” says John Stanley, founder of Stanley’s Wet Goods in Los Angeles. Some Greek winemakers even label their bottles of Agiorgitiko, a native red grape planted throughout Greece, as “St. George” in English-speaking markets. 

Whites:  

Assyrtiko [ A seer’ tee ko ] is a classy white grape, possibly some of the greatest varieties found in the Mediterranean basin. It originated in Santorini (Assyrtiko-Santorini) but it spread all over Greece, becoming, in terms of quality, one of the most important native varietals. It produces mainly dry white wines, some of which are being aged in oak. However, a number of sweet wines are made, from sun dried grapes. Assyrtiko is one of these rare white grape varieties that can grow on hot and dry climatic conditions, while at the same keeping the high alcohol in perfect balance by its crisp acidity. It is more of a textural variety, emphasizing extract, body and structure, rather than an aromatic grape. The smoky, salty and cellar–worthy white wine borne of Santorini’s moonscape-like volcanic vineyards dates back more than 3,500 years. Grown in sandy, nutrient-poor soils resistant to the Phylloxerapest that decimated vineyards across the world, Santorini was left untouched. This enabled the development of hearty vineyards, some of which are more than 150 years old. In fact, the island boasts some the few self-rooted vines left in Europe. In these more nutrient-rich soils and under less traumatic conditions, Assyrtiko displays a softer, fruitier character that appeals to a broader range of palates. However, it maintains a hallmark acidity and minerality that sets it apart from other international wines.  

The flavor profile of Assyrtiko is dominated by fresh citrus notes, such as lemon, lime, and grapefruit, alongside a characteristic minerality that gives the wine a refreshing, almost salty finish. The acidity in Assyrtiko is vibrant, making it an ideal wine to pair with a variety of seafood dishes, as well as Mediterranean cuisine like grilled vegetables and roasted chicken. Some Assyrtiko wines also show hints of herbs and floral notes, adding further complexity to the wine. 

Vidiano from Crete is one of the most exciting grapes to emerge. This viscous, mineral-driven grape has incredible texture that reminds of a cross between France’s Marsanne and Santorini’s Assyrtiko. We are just scratching the surface on this grape, and there will be a lot to love as we continue to watch winemakers work with it. 

Historically, the Savatiano and Roditis grapes were the workhorses. For decades they made simple white wines that were crowd-pleasing café staples for easy mezza pairings. There has been a lot of focus on leveling up these grapes, and we will continue to see more exciting ones to come over the next few years. 

The aromatic grapes Moschofilero and Malagousia are making some of the most exotic and engaging whites. Moschofilero is perfumed like Muscat but has a dryer finish, while Malagousia reaches towards floral tones but takes a step back to show off more of its stone fruit flavors.   

Reds:  

Reds definitely took a back seat to their white counterparts when Greek wines reemerged on the international wine scene a decade ago. The red grapes’ popularity suffered from difficult-to-pronounce names and a decided rusticity at the time. So much has advanced over the last decade.  

The main native grape in the north is Xinomavro (kseen-o-mav-ro), widely regarded the finest red wine of the country, which is often referred to as Greece’s Nebbiolo. This grape is known for its dark color (mavro means black) and its high acidity and tannic texture (xino means acid). There are so many styles emerging from the classic regions of Amyndeon and Naoussa in Macedon). This is mountainous country with a mix of high-altitude vineyards and great terroirs from alluvial runoff. There are some truly exciting wines coming from these regions.  

In the south there is Agiorgitiko (—eye-your-gitty-ko), the most planted native red grape in Greece, that can be found throughout Greece, but particularly in the Nemea region of the Peloponnese where it forms a PDO zone. Some Greek winemakers label their bottles of Agiorgitiko, as “St. George” for English-speaking markets. A low- to medium-yielding variety producing medium- to high-acid wines depending on elevations and soil profiles. Deep red fruits (plum and cherry) and spice. Considered to be one of Greece’s best red varietals and biggest producing red variety. This grape has a juicer profile often described as Sangiovese-like, closer to Nero d’Avola from Sicily, with darker berry fruit but sweeter warmer tannic structure. It is easy to drink on its own.   

A host of other reds are beginning to find their footing too,  including  Mavrodaphne, Mavrotragano, Limniona, and Liatiko, sometimes seen on their own and sometime in blends. 

 

  1. Information on the Wines

♦Wine #1.  Douloufakis ‘Dafnios’ Vidiano PGI Crete, 2024 

The ProducerDomaine Douloufakis Winery: In 1930, Dimitris Douloufakis became one of the first winemakers in Crete to produce wines professionally in his traditional, old winery. Their privately owned vineyards of 200 acres are located in the heart of the wine-growing zone of Crete, in Dafnes, Heraklion and at an altitude of 350 – 450 meters. The limestone soils of the area and the microclimate that prevails are considered ideal for the production of good quality grapes. This region has a long history in viticulture and also has been established as a Protected Designation of Origin for Liatiko wines .The privately owned vineyards are certified 100% organic and span over 70 acres of rolling hills in the Dafnes sub-region, a village close to Iraklio in Crete.  

 – The wine:

  • Vintage: 2024           Grape: 100% Vidiano 
  • Region/appellation: PGI Crete 
  • Viticulture: certified organic farming 
  • Winemaking entirely in steel.  
  • 13.5% APV 

Winemaker notes: The 2024 “Dafnios” has a pronounced bouquet of ripe peach, apricots, honeydew melon, papaya, and gardenia. The palate is broad and creamy, balanced by crisp acidity and peachy tropical fruit flavors. It’s reminiscent of a Northern Rhône Viognier, but with a nervier backbone.  

Critic’s review: “Douloufakis was the estate that resuscitated Vidiano from a scant 10 hectares at the turn of the 20th century. The estate now farms a total of 25ha organically with a strong focus on Vidiano grown on Crete’s abundant limestone. Although famous for the single-vineyard, barrel-fermented Aspros Lagos, this steel-fermented wine is a brilliant introduction to the variety. Fleshy and bold with some of the richness and decadence of Viognier, with attractive flavors of fresh peach, melon and apricot, but the palate is a completely different game: alert, spicy, structured by notable acidity and with real drive and concentration through to the finish.”(Pam Roberto, 2025). 

♦Wine #2. Greek Wine Cellars – GWC, ‘Flowers’ Assyrtiko, Santorini, 2024. 

– The ProducerGreek Wine Cellars, formerly known as Kourtaki Wines, is a large, historic wine producing and blottling company in Greece. The company was founded in 1895 by Vassili Kourtakis, one of the first Greeks to gain a diploma in oenology. In 1905, the company established in Markopoulo, Mesogia, an old wine-growing region where it continues to operate today. The company has continuously expanded its operations to include several regional wineries across Greece, including Ritsona, the Peloponnese, and Crete. It encompasses several brands split in three divisions: Kourtaki, Calliga and Oenoforos. Their wines are produced under PDO and PGI appellations. The winery’s annual production is approximately 30 milion bottles, half of which is exported. The The Ritsona winery in central Greece has always been at the forefront in implementing new methods and investing in modern technology with the aim of constantly improving the wines it produces.  

The wine: made from 100% indigenous Assyrtiko grapes, once fruiting begins, the grapes grow sheltered in baskets called kouloura, creating a natural work of art. Most wines are unoaked, though some very good examples of oaked Assyrtiko are made and boast the same great ageing potential. 

  • Vintage: 2024 
  • Grape: 100% Assyrtiko 
  • Region/appellation: Santorini PDO 
  • Aging: 5-7 months          13% ABV 

Winemaker’s notes: Golden yellow color, with hints of citrus & apple on the nose. Crisp clean fruit on the palate with the development of a pleasant acidity and minerality, the latter derived from the unique character of the geology of this dramatic volcanic island. Great with seafood. 

♦Wine #3.  Kir-Yianni Estate, ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro, 2019 

– The ProducerKir-Yianni Estate was established in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry. Kir-Yianni, “Mr. John” in Greek, is best known for producing premium Xinomavro from the slopes of Mt. Vermio in Northwestern Greece. Today, Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, actively manages the winery and their two 30+ year-old estate vineyards located in Naoussa and Amyndeon. The Kir-Yianni philosophy is a desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the consumer.  

– The Wine: The Ramnista vineyard has a southeast exposure at an altitude of 120-280m. The grapes for Ramnista are carefully handpicked. They use grapes mostly from the vineyard blocks of lower pH and with lighter soil type in order to maximize the aromatic intensity and complexity. 

  • Vintage: 2019 
  • Grape: 100% Xinomavro 
  • Region/appellation: Naoussa PDO  
  • Vinification: grapes are handpicked and carefully sorted before being crushed. Fermentation is done in 5,000ltr French Oak wooden vats at controlled temperatures with regular Pigage. The final blend is made five months after harvest. 
  • Ageing: 80% of the wines spends 16 months in 225L barrels, 20% in 500L barrels. Both French and American oak casks are used, plus further ageing in bottle for another 12 months. 
  • 14% ABV 
  • Dintinctions/Awards: Gold (Mundus Vini, 2023); Gold (Thessaloniki Intnl. Wine Competition, 2023); Bronze (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2023); Bronze (Intnl. Wine Competition, 2023). 

Winemaker’s notes: Garnet red, typical color to Xinomavro. Vibrant red and black fruit on the nose, with aromas of strawberry, cherry, and plums. A crisp and fruit-forward mouth with delicate notes of sweet spices and tobacco. Full body with good acidity and smooth tannins adding structure and leading to a pleasant finish. This exceptional vintage showcases the Xinomavro grape’s complexity, offering notes of ripe red berries, dried plums, and subtle hints of olive and tobacco. On the palate, you’ll enjoy its vibrant acidity and well-integrated tannins, leading to a smooth, lengthy finish. Perfect for pairing with grilled meats or savory Mediterranean dishes. This wine can taste strikingly similar to Nebbiolo (hence the correlation with Barolo), with dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and occasionally subtle tomato notes.  

Tasting notes: “An aromatic complex wine which combines powerfully fresh red fruits and notes of rose, make up the new vintage of 2019 Ramnista. On the palate, gentle tannins, and round mouth feel, with distinctive sense of the oak barrel. The unexpected full body and robust acidity showcase a great wine with aging potential up to 15 years.” 

♦Wine #4. Mitravelas Estate, ‘Ktima’ Agiorgitiko, Nemea, 2023 

– The Producer:   Mitravelas Estate was founded in the city center in 1913 and later in the 1950’s the three Mitravelas brothers Andreas, Spyros and Nikos took over the winery. By the end of the 20th century, the family owns about 10 hectares of vineyards in various areas of Nemea zone. The winery is located in Achaldia, one of the best sites in Nevea. Some pieces of the land are formed of extremely old vines which are dry farmed non irrigated. This results in very small annual production and on the other hand excellent concentrations and ripeness of the grapes. Elements necessary for the highest quality in the wines produced. 

– The Wine: Fir this wine, the ensemble of vineyards are located mainly on the hillside around the area of ​​Nemea, in the winery’s privately owned area of ​​10 hectares, yet also in cooperating viticulturists’ land with long-term contracts, where the yields are minimized, in order to maximize the quality. Different soils and altitudes depending the wine to be produced in each vineyard. Ktima Agiorgitiko wine have received awards for quality since its 2005 vintage.  

  • Vintage: 2023 
  • Grape: 100% Agiorgitiko 
  • Region/appellation: Nemea PDO 
  • Vinification: grapes are destemmed and inoculated with autochthone yeasts selected from the Nemea area; followed by a long stay with the grapes, about 15 days, at relatively low temperatures in order to preserve the fruity aromatic characteristics and to extract only the fine tannins. Alcoholic fermentation is followed by malolactic fermentation.  
  • Ageing: 6-8 months ageing in French oak barrels, 2nd and 3rd use.  It is expected that for the next at least 8 years it will become more complex and velvetiy. 
  • 14.5% ABV 

Winemaker’s notes: The 2023 Ktima Agiorgitiko from Mitravelas Estate is a deep red-violet color wine with aromas of blackcurrant, pomegranate, and plum. It features flavors of sour cherry, dark fruits, and hints of leather, pepper, and vanilla. The wine is known for its velvety tannins and rich acidity, making it suitable for pairing with red meats, game, and spicy dishes. It has received positive reviews for its complexity and aging potential, with a tasting note describing it as a firm and medium-fruity red with a dusty finish.  

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

 

References: 

Greek wine – Wikipedia 

The Wine Regions of Greece (Maps) | Wine Folly 

The Ancient Greek Varieties Making Thoroughly Modern Wines | Wine Enthusiast Magazine 

The history of Greek wine Archives – Wines of Greece 

PDO, PGI, IDO – What is this? | The Greek Wine Experience 

The Best Greek Wines to Drink Right Now | Wine Enthusiast Magazine 

A Guide to the Most Popular Greek Wine Varieties 

8 of the Very Best Greek Wines: What They Are and Where to Find Them 

Top 13 Greek Red wines in United States right now 

Douloufakis Winery, Crete (Greece) Vidiano “Dafnios” 2024 ($18) – Wine Review Online 

Greek Wine Cellars (Markopoulo) – Wines of Greece 

Naoussa Cuvée Villages — Ktima Kir-Yianni 

Ramnista — Ktima Kir-Yianni 

2023 Ktima Mitravelas – Agiorgitiko Nemea Estate Red (750ml). MacArthur Beverages 

.o0o.

Laughing Matter:

It is a full bodied wine with hints of acrimony, partisanship, and moral outrage.

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Good Read: K. Lynch “Adventures on the Wine Route”

Kermit Lynch: Adventures on the Wine Route – A Wine Buyer’s Tour de France, 2019 – The 25th Aniversary Edition

Amazon: Kindle $12.99, Paperback $18.46, Hardcover $55.21
This book has been recommended by Juan Colaiacovo, one of the founders and President of the Club del Vino  for many years. He wrote: 

 “”Espero que estén bien para recibir el otoño. Buena época para degustar vinos.
Les envío foto de este libro que recomiendo. Ameno y muy interesante. El autor relata su experiencia como importador de vinos de  Francia. 1975-2000. El libro se editó ese último año. Ahora salió una actualización con un capítulo adicional.
Recomiendo ponerlo en el blog y avisarle a los socios.
Saludos
Juan””

The newly designed twenty-fifth anniversary edition of the classic volume, brought up-to-date.

“Wine is, above all, about pleasure. Those who make it ponderous make it dull . . . If you keep an open mind and take each wine on its own terms, there is a world of magic to discover.” So wrote the renowned wine expert Kermit Lynch in the introduction to Adventures on the Wine Route, his ultimate tour of France, especially its wine cellars. The “magic” of wine is Lynch’s subject as he takes the reader on a singular journey through the Loire, Bordeaux, the Languedoc, Provence, northern and southern Rhone, and Burgundy. In Adventures on the Wine Route, the wine lover will find wisdom without a trace of pretension and hype. As Victor Hazan wrote, “In Kermit Lynch’s small, true, delightful book there is more understanding about what wine really is than in everything else I have read.”

Praise for Lynch and for Adventures on the Wine Route has not ceased since the book’s initial publication a quarter century ago. In 2007, the New York Times called it “one of the finest American books on wine.” And in June 2012, The Wall Street Journal proclaimed it “the best book on the wine business.” Full of vivid portraits of French vintners, memorable evocations of the French countryside, and, of course, vibrant descriptions of French wines, this new edition of Adventures on the Wine Route updates a modern classic for our times.

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