Tasting No 290 – June 30, 2026
Wines of Greece and Cyprus: A Historical and Contemporary Overview
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Tasting Overview
For more than 5,000 years, the wine cultures of Greece and Cyprus have evolved side by side, helping shape the history of Mediterranean viticulture. This tasting explores their shared heritage through five emblematic indigenous wines. Assyrtiko and Xynisteri reveal the freshness, vitality and regional distinctiveness of Aegean and Cypriot white wines, while Xinomavro and Maratheftiko highlight the complexity, structure and character of two notable native red varieties. The journey concludes with Commandaria, Cyprus’s historic sweet wine and the world’s oldest continuously produced named wine. Together, these selections trace a path from antiquity to the present, showcasing the revival of indigenous grape varieties, terroir-driven winemaking, and the ongoing renaissance of two of the world’s oldest and most enduring wine cultures.
♦ Presenters: Cristian Santelices, Jorge Claro y Luis Uechi
♦ Participants: (to be completed after the meeting)
These are the wines:
- Gavalas ‘Santorini’ Assyrtiko, Santorini PDO, 2024 (Greece)
- Makarounas ‘Aerides’ Xynisteri, Paphos PGI, 2024 (Cyprus)
- Alpha Estate, ‘Hedgehog Vineyard’ Xinomavro, Amyndeon PDO, 2022 (Greece)
- Zambartas, Maratheftiko, Limassol PGI, 2023 (Cyprus)
- Keo St John Commandaria – PDO (Fortified dessert wine, Cyprus).
The Menu
- Greek style salad
- Linguine with calamari
- Grilled lamb chops w/brown sauce and vegetables
- Dessert, coffee and tea.
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A Historical and Contemporary Overview
The Mediterranean region is central to understanding the origins and development of modern civilization. Often regarded as the “cradle of Western civilization”, it was home to some of humanity’s earliest and most influential societies, including those of the Fertile Crescent, where settled agriculture first emerged. Among its most enduring cultural achievements is wine, a beverage that has accompanied humanity for thousands of years and has played a vital role in religion, trade, agriculture, and social life. Few countries illustrate this heritage more clearly than Greece and Cyprus, whose intertwined wine histories span more than four millennia and represent one of the world’s oldest continuous viticultural traditions.
The origins of wine. Archaeological evidence indicates that the earliest known winemaking took place more than 8,000 years ago in present-day Georgia before spreading throughout Mesopotamia, the Near East and across the Mediterranean, reaching Cyprus, Greece, and other regions. Early peoples discovered that wild grapevines (Vitis vinifera-sylvestris), native to the region stretching from the Caucasus to the Fertile Crescent, could be fermented into an intoxicating beverage. The deliberate production of wine required innovation so, over time, the various ancient civilizations gradually refined the process turning it into an art form that has stood the test of time. As trade networks expanded, grape cultivation spread across Europe, Asia, and North Africa, giving rise to diverse grape varieties and regional winemaking traditions that shaped the wines we know today (see Map of trade networks for details).
Without modern technologies such as stainless steel tanks, temperature control, or advanced filtration, early winemakers relied on natural, minimal-intervention methods. Grapes were harvested by hand and often crushed by foot, while ambient wild yeasts present on grape skins initiated spontaneous fermentation in clay jars, stone basins, or wooden vessels. Wines were commonly stored in containers sealed with resin or wax to aid preservation and were sometimes infused with herbs, honey, or spices to enhance their flavor. While wine in ancient Egyptian and Persian societies was typically reserved for religious ceremonies and elite banquets, the Greeks and Romans incorporated it into everyday life, often diluting it with water before consumption.
Ancient wine’s legacy in modern winemaking. Although modern technology has transformed wine production, many primordial methods survive today. Amphora fermentation, minimal-intervention practices, and Georgia’s qvevri tradition continue to heavily influence contemporary boutique wine producers around the world. These enduring techniques remind us that wine is not merely an agricultural product but also a living connection to history, culture, and human ingenuity.
The intertwined wine histories of Greece and Cyprus.
The history of wine is not a collection of isolated stories, but a grand mosaic assembled across the Mediterranean. Nowhere is this truer than in Greece and Cyprus, whose wine worlds are among the most closely intertwined. Rather than developing independently, the two regions evolved through centuries of maritime trade, cultural exchange, religious connections, and shared viticultural and winemaking knowledge. Together, they represent one of the world’s oldest continuous wine civilizations.
Ancient Eastern Mediterranean foundations. This relationship dates back over 4,000 years. Archaeological evidence shows organized wine production in Cyprus by 2000 BCE, coinciding with the period in which the Minoan and Mycenaean civilizations were developing sophisticated agricultural systems and viticultural practices (what we now recognize as the foundations of Greek wine culture), as well as maritime trade networks in the Aegean. Strategically positioned between Greece, the Levant, and Egypt, Cyprus became a pivotal commercial intermediary, facilitating the exchange of goods, technologies (e.g. ceramic amphorae production technology used in transport and storage of wine), and winemaking knowledge.
Wine, ritual, and the Greek world. By the late Bronze Age and early Iron Age (c. 1100 BCE), sustained maritime contact had linked Cypriot and Greek societies, and by the 8th century BCE, wine was central to Greek ritual, philosophy, and social life. Cypriot sweet wines called Nama were highly esteemed—praised by authors like Hesiod and Euripides—and are considered precursors to modern Commandaria.
Greek colonization between the 8th and 4th centuries BCE further strengthened cultural ties between Greece and Cyprus, embedding Greek language, religion, and customs into Cypriot society. Wine played a central role in this exchange, particularly through the cult of Dionysus—the god of wine, fertility, and celebration—and the symposium, an elite gathering where wine accompanied poetry, philosophical discussion, and social bonding.
Empires, Christianity, and continuity. After Alexander the Great’s conquests, Cyprus became fully integrated into the Hellenistic world, participating in a large, organized maritime wine trade exemplified by the Kyrenia shipwreck loaded with amphorae. Under the Roman and Byzantine empires, Christianity strengthened wine’s religious and economic importance, with monasteries preserving vineyards and indigenous grapes through centuries of instability. Throughout these eras, wine served as both a major trade commodity and a symbol of cultural continuity linking Greeks and Cypriots. Cyprus became especially known for its concentrated, long‑lasting sweet wines, prized across the Mediterranean for their stability and suitability for long‑distance transport.
Commandaria and the Medieval Mediterranean. In 1191 King Richard I of England conquered Cyprus while on route to the Holy Land and famously praised its sweet wine as “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” Under Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries, this wine was rebranded as Commandaria, named after the crusader commandery at Kolossi Castle, and became one of Europe’s most sought-after luxury exports. While uniquely Cypriot, its production closely mirrored the ancient Greek liastos technique of sun-drying grapes. Wine production declined significantly after Cyprus and Greece were incorporated into the Ottoman Empire from the 15th century onward, due to heavy taxation and restrictions on alcohol consumption.Despite this obstacle, isolated villages and resilient Orthodox monasteries successfully preserved these viticultural traditions.
Indigenous grapes and a modern renaissance. Greece and Cyprus share deep genetic and cultural ties in their grape varieties. Cypriot Mavro shares ancestral roots with the Greek Mavroudi, while Cyprus white variety Xynisteri shows stylistic and structural parallels to Greek Aegean whites like Assyrtiko. Both countries are now experiencing a quality focused renaissance centered on indigenous grapes, terroir expression, and lower yields and terroir-driven winemaking.
Greece has gained international recognition for grapes such as Assyrtiko and Xinomavro, while Cyprus holds a unique advantage: its vineyards remain phylloxera free, allowing ancient, ungrafted vines to survive on original rootstocks. Modern producers in both regions are reviving historic varieties and adapting them to climate challenges, continuing one of the world’s oldest continuous wine cultures. Modern Greek and Cypriot wines are undergoing a major revival driven by improved viticulture and winemaking, renewed interest in regional identity, and collaboration between producers. Winemakers are focusing on indigenous grape varieties that naturally withstand hot, dry climates and climate‑change pressures. Rather than creating something new, this movement represents a modern continuation of ancient traditions, helping preserve one of the world’s oldest interconnected viticultural civilizations.
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Contemporary wines of Greece and Cyprus
Today, both countries are experiencing a remarkable wine renaissance driven by technological modernization and a new generation of producers. From the volcanic vineyards of the Aegean to the sun-drenched mountains of Cyprus, winemakers are transforming these ancient landscapes into some of the modern wine world’s most compelling destinations. The indigenous grape varieties form the foundation of both countries’ wine industries, while international grapes remain limited to blending roles.
Today, the wines of Greece and Cyprus compete confidently on the world stage while offering distinctive expressions rooted in indigenous grape varieties, unique terroirs, and uninterrupted viticultural traditions. What makes these wines particularly compelling is their profound sense of place: saline whites shaped by volcanic islands, mountain-grown reds infused with herbal and earthy complexity, and sweet wines whose origins stretch back to antiquity. As a result, Greece and Cyprus are among the world’s most exciting wine regions, offering authenticity, originality, and a living connection to one of humanity’s oldest wine cultures.\
Hellenic Republic (Greece)
Greece’s wine industry is defined by its exceptional diversity, with over 300 indigenous grape varieties spread across volcanic islands, mountains, and varied terroirs. About 90% of its 64,000 hectares of vineyards are planted with native grapes. White wines make up 65% of production, led by Assyrtiko, Savatiano, Roditis, and Muscat of Hamburg, while key red varieties include Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, and Liatiko.
Although small globally, Greece produces 1.5–2.5 million hectoliters annually and is increasingly focused on premium, terroir‑driven wines—especially from Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, and Agiorgitiko. Most Greek wine (~90%) is consumed domestically, so exports remain limited, representing only 0.3% of global wine exports. Of Greece’s roughly 1,500 wineries, about 200 export, with the EU accounting for 55% of export value and the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. serving as key growth markets.
Wine quality is regulated under the EU’s PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) systems. Greece’s 33-PDO zones represent its historical, high-quality appellations, which mandate the use of native grapes. Although overall production has declined in recent years due to vineyard abandonment and climate pressures, the proportion of PDO- and PGI-designated wines continues to rise, currently accounting for roughly 37% of total wine production (see previous blogs for more details).
Republic of Cyprus
Cyprus and Greece share deep cultural, religious, linguistic, and historical ties. Approximately 78% of Cyprus’s population of 1.1 million is Greek Cypriot, and the majority adheres to the Greek Orthodox faith. Despite these close connections, Cyprus has always remained a distinct political entity and has never been part of the modern Greek state. Since 1974, the island has been divided between the internationally recognized Republic of Cyprus in the south and the Turkish-controlled north, separated by a United Nations buffer zone known as the Green Line. The division followed a coup aimed at unification with Greece and a subsequent Turkish military intervention. The self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, established in 1983, is recognized only by Turkey. Greek and Turkish are the island’s official languages, and strong educational and cultural exchanges continue between Cyprus and Greece, including the attendance of many Cypriot students at Greek universities. Cyprus remained under Ottoman rule for more than three centuries before becoming a British colony in 1914, gaining independence in 1960, and joining the EU in 2004. Today, Cyprus combines Mediterranean traditions, European institutions, and a resilient national identity that continues to shape its culture, cuisine, and wine.
Cyprus wine production. Cyprus’s 5,000‑year wine tradition has undergone a major modern revival after a long period of decline in the 20th century. Vineyard area has shrunk to about 7,000 hectares, but nearly 90% is now planted with indigenous grapes, and around 50 small wineries are leading a shift from bulk production to premium, terroir‑driven wines. The country’s wine renaissance is driven by several factors: i) a focus on quality over quantity, ii) renewed commitment to native, phylloxera‑free varieties, iii) high‑altitude viticulture (400–1,500 m), iv) ungrafted old vines, providing pure expressions of terroir; and v) experimental winemaking, blending ancient techniques (amphora, foot‑treading, skin contact) with modern minimal‑intervention winemaking.
Cyprus produces about 108,000 hectoliters (14.4 million bottles) annually, with 55–60% white and rosé and 40–45% red. Key indigenous grapes include Xynisteri, Promara, and Spourtiko for whites, and Maratheftiko, Mavro, and Yiannoudi for reds. Xynisteri and Mavro dominate plantings and are central to producing Commandaria, the island’s iconic fortified sweet wine.
Cyprus’s modern wine classification system, created in 2007 under EU regulation and the Cypriot Wine Products Council, includes 7 PDO zones and 4 broader PGI regions. The PDOs highlight the island’s most distinctive terroirs: Commandaria (historic sweet wine from 14 villages in the Troodos Mountains); Krasochoria Lemesou with its two sub‑zones Afames and Laona; Laona‑Akamas in northwest Paphos; Vouni Panayia‑Ampelitis in the high western mountains; and Pitsilia across the Madari–Papoutsa–Macheras peaks. The PGI regions correspond to the island’s administrative districts – Nicosia, Limassol, Larnaca, and Paphos – requiring at least 85% of grapes to come from the named district.
Wine grapes for this tasting
The White Grapes. Assyrtiko and Xynisteri rank among the region’s most distinctive and resilient indigenous white grape varieties within the broader context of Eastern Mediterranean viticulture. Both boast rare, ungrafted roots untouched by Phylloxera and both evolved under intense sunlight, limited rainfall, strong maritime influences, and rugged island landscapes, enabling them to retain freshness and balance despite extreme heat. Assyrtiko, cultivated primarily on Santorini, is renowned for its striking acidity, saline minerality, and aging potential. Its wines typically exhibit citrus, stone, smoke, and sea-spray characteristics shaped by the island’s volcanic soils and maritime climate. Xynisteri, Cyprus’s flagship white grape, thrives in high-altitude vineyards and produces fresh, aromatic wines marked by citrus blossom, orchard fruit, herbal notes, and a softer, more approachable texture. Although stylistically distinct, both varieties exemplify the defining qualities of Eastern Mediterranean island viticulture: resilience to heat and drought, a strong expression of terroir, and a deep connection to regional history.
The Red Grapes: Xinomavro and Maratheftiko are two of the most compelling expressions of the contemporary indigenous wine renaissance in Greece and Cyprus. Both varieties nearly disappeared during the 20th century due to low yields and demanding viticultural characteristics but, today, are widely regarded as the flagship age-worthy red grapes of their respective countries that express strong regional identity. Xinomavro, grown mainly in northern Greece, is known for high acidity, firm tannins, and long aging potential, with complex aromas of red fruit, tomato leaf, olive, herbs, and spice. Maratheftiko, Cyprus’s premier red grape, produces deeper‑colored, more fruit‑driven wines with blackberry, plum, violet, and pepper notes. It grows best at higher elevations and offers richness and freshness. Unusually, Maratheftiko only possesses functionally female flowers and requires pollination from nearby grape varieties (e.g. Spourtiko) to achieve reliable fruit set. As a result, the variety is difficult to cultivate and prone to low, unpredictable yields, but improved vineyard management and a better understanding of pollination and millerandage have since enabled its revival.
Once underappreciated and at risk of extinction, both grapes have become symbols of indigenous grape preservation and the growing international recognition of Eastern Mediterranean wines.
Commandaria wine: This wine is crafted exclusively from Cyprus’s indigenous Xynisteri and Mavro grape varieties grown within the Commandaria PDO, a designated region since 1973 comprising 14 specific villages on the southern foothills of the Troodos Mountains, where high‑altitude, terraced, unirrigated vineyards yield naturally low quantities of concentrated fruit. Annual production is small, typically 2,000–3,000 hectoliters. Commandaria is produced through a highly traditional method that is recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. It begins with overripening and sun‑drying Xynisteri and Mavro grapes, concentrating their sugars to very high levels. The slow, months‑long fermentation stops naturally at around 9.5% alcohol, after which the wine is fortified to 15–18% and aged in oak—often using the historic Manna (Solera‑style) system that blends younger wines with older reserves. The result is a richly sweet yet balanced wine with flavors of dried fruits, caramel, coffee, nuts, and warm spice. More than a dessert wine, Commandaria represents a living continuation of ancient Eastern Mediterranean winemaking and one of Cyprus’s most enduring cultural traditions.
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Information on the Wines
Wine #1. Gavalas, ‘Santorini’, Santorini PDO, 2024
The producer: Based in the traditional village of Megalochori, Gavalas Winery pairs centuries of winemaking heritage with modern precision. From its founding until the 1920s, the family produced wine from its own vineyards to distribute locally and export to Alexandria, Egypt. By the 1930s, distribution expanded to Athens and Piraeus. In those early days, wine was transported from the island’s traditional kanavas (wine cellars) by mule in goatskin sacks, transferred into massive 600-kg barrels (called bombs) at the port of Fira, and shipped across the Aegean on small wooden boats (caiques). Today, with an annual production of approximately 80,000 bottles, Gavalas continues focusing on rare indigenous varieties that faithfully reflect Santorini’s distinctive character. Their portfolio features some of the island’s finest expressions of Assyrtiko, which accounts for approximately 70% of the winery’s 7.3 hectares vineyard within the Santorini PDO.
The wine: This spontaneously fermented white wine showcases the striking mineral intensity and vibrant acidity that define PDO Santorini wines. By letting the fruit and terroir to speak authentically, the natural fermentation process adds complexity and textural depth, beautifully reflecting both the pristine maritime influence of the Aegean and the Gavalas family’s commitment to expressing pure, unadulterated terroir in every bottle.
Vintage: 2024 Grape Variety: 100% Assyrtiko
Region/Appellation: Aegean Islands, Santorini PDO, Greece
Alcohol: 13,5% ABV
Viticulture: rooted in volcanic soils—composed of ash, pumice, lava, and basalt — the vines are cultivated using the traditional kouloura (basket) training method to protect them from fierce Aegean winds and intense summer sun.
Vinification: grapes are harvested from early to mid-August, and carefully placed in crates and baskets, never completely filled; after gentle pressing, only a portion of the juice (~25%) is selected and clarified at low temperatures before fermentation in stainless-steel tanks at approximately 18°C. Natural fermentation using indigenous yeasts.
Structure: Medium-bodied with a subtle creamy texture balanced by vibrant acidity and pronounced mineral character.
Tasting profile: A most distinctive, dry white wine, characterized by a pale yellow color. On the nose it displays delicate aromas of pear, lemon, pineapple, citrus blossom, and flinty minerality. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with a subtle creamy texture balanced by vibrant acidity and pronounced mineral character. Notes of citrus and orchard fruit are complemented by the saline freshness that has become a hallmark of Assyrtiko. The wine finishes long, crisp, and refreshing. It is best served chilled at 8-10°C. Its lively acidity and mineral backbone make it exceptionally versatile with food, pairing particularly well with seafood, sushi, fresh salads, goat cheese, or aromatic herb-forward dishes.
Wine #2. Makarounas, Aerides Xynisteri Pafos PGI, 2024
The producer: Founded in 2016 by Theodoros Makarounas after completing his studies in Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis, Makarounas Winery is a family-owned estate that has quickly become one of the leading voices in Cyprus’s modern wine renaissance. Located in the village of Letymbou, in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains within a region locals call the “Paphos vine-villages” due to its deeply rooted winemaking traditions. The family organically farms approximately 28 hectares of 100% ungrafted vineyards, primarily of indigenous Cypriot grape varieties—including Xynisteri, Maratheftiko, Spourtiko, Yiannoudi, Promara, and Vasilissa, planted on a complex mix of gypsum, limestone, and clay soils. Makarounas is one of the few wineries in Cyprus to produce wine exclusively from its privately owned estate vineyards, which allows complete control over vineyard management, and the production of highly distinctive, terroir-driven wines. They also supply high-quality fruit to several other notable Cypriot wineries.
The wine: While Xynisteri is often compared to Assyrtiko for its ability to retain freshness in warm climates, it offers a softer, more approachable profile characterized by elegance rather than power. The result is a balanced and highly drinkable wine that captures both the maritime influence and mountain freshness of western Cyprus. Organic, sustainable, and vegan.
Vintage: 2024
Grape Variety: 100% Xynisteri
Region/Appellation: Letymbou, Pafos– PGI, Cyprus
Viticulture: 100% ungrafted bush vines 20-90 years of age
Alcohol: 12% ABV
Winemaking: grapes undergo a short pre-fermentation maceration at low temperatures before spontaneous fermentation using indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. To build texture and complexity, the wine remains in contact with its fine lees for approximately 4 months, accompanied by twice-weekly battonage.
Structure: Xynisteri delivers a light-bodied profile defined by saline minerality and a citrus-driven tension that echoes both the power of Assyrtiko and the breezy ease of Vermentino.
Tasting profile: Characterized by a pale yellow in appearance, on the nose and palate this dry white wine is fresh, expressive, and beautifully balanced. It offers bright aromas of citrus and green apple, underpinned by subtle Mediterranean herbs and floral notes. Crisp and mineral-driven on the palate, combining bright acidity with a gentle saline character and a refined texture derived from extended lees contact, this elegant, refreshing vintage is highly versatile, pairing beautifully with fresh cheeses, a wide range of seafood dishes, and light Mediterranean cuisine.
Wine #3. Alpha Estate, ‘Hedgehog Vineyard’, Xinomavro, Amyndeon PDO, Greece, 2022
The producer: Founded in 1997 by viticulturist Makis Mavridis and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis, Alpha Estate is one of Greece’s most respected wineries and a leading producer in the Amyndeon PDO of northwestern Macedonia. The estate manages approximately 220 hectares of vineyards situated between 620 and 710 meters above sea level. The vineyards feature a highly uniform topography with gentle, northwest-facing slopes of 5% to 15%. As one of Greece’s coolest wine regions, Amyndeon is characterized by a semi-continental climate. Cold, snowy winters naturally supply the soil with enough water to sustain the vines through dry summers. Two nearby lakes buffer extreme weather. The soil consists of low-fertility, well-draining sandy-clay loam. A distinct limestone subsoil contains traces of ancient lakes, which impart signature minerality to the wines. Combined with precise vineyard management, these conditions are well suited to Xinomavro and yield well-structured, balanced wines with complex aromas and excellent finesse.
To preserve the grapes’ optimal organoleptic properties, harvesting occurs during the coolest hours of the day, and the fruit is moved using specialized refrigerated transport. The winery’s architectural design utilizes gravity-fed processing to minimize physical stress on the raw materials. The facility is constructed entirely from inert, neutral materials, ensuring a pristine internal environment that completely protects the quality of the grapes, must, and wine throughout production.
The wine:
Vintage: 2022
Grape Variety: 100% Xinomavro
Region/Appellation: Macedonia, Amyndeon – PDO, Greece
Alcohol: 14% ABV
Viticulture: “Hedgehog” Single Vineyard (69 hectares) is located at 690 m elevation with northern exposure overlooking Lake Petron. Vines density of 5,900 per hectare, and controlled yields of 0.9-1.1 kilograms per vine to maximize concentration and balance.
Vinification and aging: Minimal intervention winemaking practices that prioritize sustainability. Hand-harvested in mid-September, followed by destemming, gentle crushing, and a period of cold maceration before fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures. The wine remains on its lees for 8 months with regular stirring, then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels followed by 12 months of bottle maturation prior to release.
Structure: Medium to full-bodied, rounded tannins, balanced acidity and well integrated wood tones.
Tasting profile: Deep ruby-purple color, it reveals a complex, typical Xinomavro bouquet of red fruits, berries, dried herbs, leather and spices (vanilla, pepper, clove). Full mouth on the palate, combining vibrant acidity with polished tannins and seamlessly integrated oak. Long aftertaste marked by quince, spice, and mineral undertones. Elegant yet powerful, this wine offers a refined and contemporary expression of Xinomavro (a compelling example of modern Greek winemaking), will continue to gain complexity and nuance with additional bottle age. Best served at 16-18°C, it pairs beautifully with grilled red meats, lamb, and aged semi-hard cheeses.
Wine #4. Zambartas, Maratheftiko, Limassol PGI, Cyprus, 2023
The producer: Founded in 2006 by Akis Zambartas, Cyprus’s first university-trained oenologist, Zambartas Winery has played a pivotal role in the revival of the island’s indigenous grape varieties. Akis spent 35 years shaping the modern Cypriot wine industry, including serving as chief winemaker at KEO. His pioneering research in the 1980s identified and documented 13 largely forgotten native grape varieties, laying the foundation for their contemporary resurgence. In recognition of his enormous achievements, he was made a member of the Académie Internationale du Vin. In 2014, the winery passed to his son Marcos.
Today the family manages more than 27 hectares of vineyards (72% of which are certified organic) on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains, at elevations ranging from 600 to 1,000 meters. Farmed according to organic and sustainable principles, including careful water management, limited irrigation for young vines, and dry farming for established vineyards, these high-altitude vineyards benefit from cooler temperatures that help preserve freshness, balance, and aromatic complexity. It combines modern viticulture with traditional practices, including gobelet-trained vines in older vineyards. Biodiversity is encouraged through the preservation of natural habitats and the restoration of traditional stone terraces, creating a healthy vineyard ecosystem while preserving the region’s viticultural heritage. Producing approximately 150,000 bottles annually, the winery remains dedicated to authenticity, connection, and shared experiences around wine.
The wine:
Vintage: 2023
Grape Variety: 100% Maratheftiko
Region/Appellation: Limassol – PGI, Cyprus
Alcohol: 15% ABV
Viticulture: ungrafted, dry-farmed vines farmed according to organic and sustainable principles.
Vinification and aging: The grapes are hand-harvested and carefully sorted on the picking table to select the very best grapes before fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. The wine is then matured for 12 months in a combination of new and seasoned 400-liter French oak barrels, enhancing its bouquet and complexity, while preserving varietal character.
Structure: It’s a rich body, structured wine with depth, freshness, ripe silky tannins, layered dark fruit and a long lasting finish.
Tasting profile: This wine offers an expressive bouquet of black and red berries, rose petal, sweet spice, and the distinctive floral violet notes often associated with Maratheftiko, unusual for a grape grown in such a warm Mediterranean climate. On the palate, it is full-bodied yet balanced, combining ripe fruit with freshness, silky tannins, and well-integrated oak. Layers of blackberry, plum, and subtle savory notes lead to a long, persistent finish. It pairs beautifully with grilled lamb, pork, and beef, especially traditional souvla, the Cypriot and Greek method of slowly roasting large cuts of meat over charcoal. Powerful yet elegant, this Maratheftiko is a compelling expression of modern Cypriot winemaking and the ongoing renaissance of the island’s native grapes. While already approachable, the youthful 2023 vintage will benefit from decanting and has the structure to evolve gracefully over the next 7–8 years.
Wine #5. KEO, ‘St John’ Commandaria PDO, Cyprus
The producer: KEO is Cyprus’s most influential historic wine producer and one of the island’s most internationally recognized wineries. Founded in 1927, it played a central role in preserving and commercializing Cyprus’s traditional wines, especially Commandaria. The wine is a non-vintage, fortified dessert wine crafted from the indigenous varieties Mavro and Xynisteri grown on ungrafted, unirrigated bush vines in the volcanic soils of the Commandaria PDO region near Limassol. KEO produces more than 130,000 liters of St. John Commandaria annually. While the exact yield varies based on grape availability, the winery maintains a rolling stock of approximately 400,000 liters in its extensive, historic barrel vaults.
The wine: The winery’s flagship wine, St. John Commandaria PDO is made using a traditional process that embodies a viticultural continuity extending from classical antiquity into the present day. It is a contemporary expression of Cyprus’s ancient, fortified wine tradition. To pour a glass of this wine is to taste a living fragment of Mediterranean history.
Vintage: Non-Vintage.
Grape Variety: Mavro and Xynisteri
Region/Appellation: Limassol, Commandaria – PDO, Cyprus
Alcohol: 15% ABV
Viticulture: grapes from ungrafted, unirrigated bush vines with low yields.
Vinification: The overripe grapes are harvested at the beginning of September and laid out to sun-dry to concentrate their sugars and flavors. After pressing, the juice ferments naturally in traditional wooden vats.
Aging: In old oak barrels in climate controlled cellars for at least 2 years, that are never fully emptied, utilizing a fractional blending solera-like method that imparts extraordinary depth and longevity. Bottled at 15% ABV. This approach creates continuity between vintages and contributes to the wine’s remarkable complexity and virtually unlimited aging potential.
Structure: It’s full-bodied and richly textured. This wine has a long shelf life when sealed and can also be enjoyed for a long time when refrigerated after opening.
Tasting profile: A sweet wine with a deep amber hue and a powerful aromatic profile of dried fruits, mocha, roasted coffee and warm spices. On the full-bodied palate, with a rich, smooth texture it is enticingly sweet – but not cloying-, complex, delicate fruit notes of ripe dates with a hint of smokiness, a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity and a persistent, fresh, harmonious, and long-lasting finish. Pairs perfectly with robust blue cheese and with desserts (e.g. particularly those containing dark chocolate and nuts, fruit tarts, and traditional pastries like baklava). Is best served chilled, ideally between 12–14°C (54–57°F) or slightly cooler at (8–10°C (46–50°F) if preferred as a fresh, pre-dinner aperitif.
CV Members Rating (after the tasting)
References
Early Neolithic wine of Georgia in the South Caucasus, Nov. 13, 2017
https://clubvino1.com/2025/10/20/tasting-282-october-28-2025-wines-from-greece/
https://clubvino1.com/2015/09/04/tasting-no-170
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https://clubvino1.com/2011/10/07
https://web.cocc.edu/cagatucci/classes/hum213/Maps/Maps2HistoryAncient.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Mediterranean_region
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caucasus
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commandaria
https://www.worldhistory.org/uploads/images/14421.png?v=1777804408-1777804438
https://v1.vinous.com/articles/greece-from-ancient-roots-to-modern-glory-dec-2025
https://www.winebow.com/knowledge/wine/greece
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https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/oldest-manufactured-wine
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Laughing matter:
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Tasting No 289 – May 26, 2026
Galilee (HaGalil) – In the north, is considered the region most suited for viticulture. The Galilee benefits from higher elevations, cooler temperatures, marked day and night temperatures and volcanic soils. The cooler climate helps grapes ripen slowly, preserving acidity and complexity. Noted for elegant, structured reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Syrah), and fresh whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay.) Galilee wines tend to show cool-climate balance, acidity, and layered fruit, thanks to elevation and volcanic/limestone soils.
The Producer: The Golan Heigths Winery was established in 1983 and produces four labels with a range of varieties and styles: Yarden, Gamla, Hermon and Golan. The Winery maintains about 630 hectares of grape-yielding vineyards. It has planted some 20 varieties of grapes in 28 vineyards divided into roughly 450 blocks, at elevations ranging from 400 to almost 1,200 meters. Each vineyard block is mapped and cataloged, with constant monitoring of its various parameters including soil conductivity, growth, water condition in the vine, and more. The blocks are harvested separately, and their wines are stored separately in stainless steel tanks in order to maintain their identity and uniqueness until final blending. From this large selection of small blocks, winemakers can choose the most appropriate blocks for the relevant wine. Single-vineyard wines are produced only in vintages in which grape quality is exceptional and the vineyard’s terroir is clearly expressed in the wine.
The Producer: 1848 Winery is named to honor the beginning of modern winemaking in Israel by its parent Zion Winery in 1848. 1848 Winery celebrates the generations of the Galina-Shor family. It took eight generations to have a first quality wine that is well known in the region as well as the world. From the first generation that purchased grapes from the local market and made wine that were sold in small barrels. Nearly all the wines were sweet. The first evidence of the new family profession was shown in the census commissioned by Moses Montefiore in 1849. The eighth Generation under Yossi Shor founded the 1848 Winery in 2006, which became recognized for high quality in international markets. He invested in quality vineyards in the finest wine growing regions, in particular the Galilee and Judean Hills. They began aiming for quality at all costs, updated winery equipment to state of the art levels, and employed a French born, Bordeaux trained winemaker. The quality wines won awards and recognition on the international stage. The 1848 wines have gained the respect of wine lovers and connoisseurs alike, both in Israel and around the world.
The Producer: Carmel Winery is a historic wine producer that was founded in 1882 by Baron Edmond James de Rothchild. Carmel Winery manufactures mainly wine, brandy and grape juice and it is the prime producer of wine in Israel, with nearly half of the Israeli wine market share, and one of the largest wine producers in the Eastern Mediterranean. It is also the first and oldest exporter of wine, brandy and grape juice in the country, and the largest producer of kosher wine in the world. The company holds the two largest wineries in Israel (Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov), as well as two new smaller ones: 
Producer: Recanati Winery was founded in 2000 and it produces young red and white blends under its ‘Yasmin’ label, single varietals under its ‘Recanati’ and ‘Reserve’ labels, and a ‘Special Reserve’. All grapes are hand-harvested, two-thirds originating in Recanati’s high-altitude Manara vineyards in the Upper Galilee and the remainder from vineyards planted in the clay-rich soil of the Jezreel Valley. The newly built Recanati winery, opened in 2022, obtains its grapes from some of the area’s high-altitude vineyards, which enjoy a climate similar to that of California’s Napa Valley. Warm days and contrastingly cool nights, together with chalky-gravelly soil conditions and limited rainfall, create an ideal environment for this variety.
50 Years After the ‘Judgment of Paris,’ American Wine Is Once Again on a Precipice
Illustration by Chris W. Kim
Tasting No 288 – April 28, 2026
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Tasting #287 – March 31, 2026 Tasting Spätburgunder 
The VDP also has a separate classification for Sekt, or traditional-method sparkling wine:
– The Producer: Weingut Rebholz family has long been defined by a steadfast commitment to producing pure, natural, and authentically dry wines. This began with Eduard Rebholz (1889–1966) who transformed the winery after World War II and rejected the growing trend toward sweetened, manipulated wines. In 1951, he articulated his principle of “natural wine”: wines made without sugar additions, artificial sweetening, or any intervention that alter their original character. For him, true quality began in the vineyard, and cellar work should preserve — not modify — the wine. His son, Hans Rebholz (1920–1978), continued this uncompromising dry style, even when it was unfashionable in Germany. Since the mid‑1990s, Hans’s son Hansjörg and wife Birgit have led the estate, expanding vineyard holdings, joining the VDP, and strengthening their commitment to sustainability through organic and later biodynamic certification. Their sons, Hans and Valentin, represent the next generation embracing these same values.
– The Producer: Weingut Meyer-Näkel is a producer in Dernau in the Ahr Region. It is best known for red wines made from the Spätburgunder wine grape variety, though the portfolio also includes whites and rosé. The name of the wine estate goes back to the marriage of grandparents Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel in 1950. They cultivated an area of just 1.5 hectares yet were able to make a name for themselves, because Willibald’s production of dry red wines represented thoroughly pioneering work at the time. As of 2021 the vineyard holdings had grown to 15 hectares of Pinot Noir. The business was managed by Willibald’s son Werner, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dörte. The two sisters are now proceeding with making the magnificent terroir of the steep slopes by the Ahr tangible in mineral-laden and fruity wines. This requires a great deal of care in the vineyard as well as reduced yields, which are harvested by hand and carefully selected. The work in the cellar focuses exclusively on preserving this high level of quality through a gentle working method.
– The Wine: VDP.ORTSWEINE denotes high-quality, characterful and traditional vineyards within a town and give expression to the local terroir. Only regional varieties are used. Reduced yield yields and a long ripening period on the vine enable the typical aroma and elegant acidity and tannin structure. The slate soils of the Ahr River give Spätburgunder an unmistakable minerality that is truly unparalleled, making it something unique.
– The Producer: The Thörle Estate dates back to the 16th century. In 1985 Rudolf Thörle took over from his father Jakob Thörle and set the estate’s focus more on the traditional varietals Riesling and Pinot Noir. In the following years, the Thörle family acquired and planted excellent parcels in Salheim’s Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards sites to expand the estate’s diversity of terroir. Since 2006 the state has been in the hands of the next generation, Johannes and Chrisph Thörle, who manage the winery with innovative skills.
Despite not being part of the Mediterranean, the Canary Islands were included for the following :
During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Canary wine industry flourished thanks to the production of sweet wines, especially those made from Malvasia, which were exported massively to England, Flanders, and the Americas. These wines, internationally known as Canary Sack or Malmsey, enjoyed great prestige and were widely cited in European literature of the time. This golden age positioned the Canaries as one of the major wine centers of Atlantic trade, in direct dialogue with other Mediterranean regions producing sweet and fortified wines.
Sicily as a whole enjoys ample sunshine and lots of heat. However, Mt. Etna’s high elevation also provides greater rainfall, moderating breezes and cooler temperatures. Etna’s unique nature means soils, microclimates and exposures change dramatically from site to site, creating a panorama of characteristics and possibilities in the vineyards. Etna DOC is a stunning wine appellation that covers the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. The appellation is famous for its unique volcanic terroir and distinctive wines. More details about wines from Sicily, and Etna DOC in particular can be found in our blog post from February, 2024 (
The Priorat wine DOP is located in the Catalonia region, just inland from the Mediterranean port city of Tarragona. The Montsant mountain chain dominates the region, with vineyards situated between 330 feet above sea level in the valleys of Bellmunt del Priorat and el Molar up to 2,500 feet above sea level on the slopes of La Morera de Montsant and Porrera. Many vineyards are located on costers (Catalan for “steep slope”), so terracing is common, and vineyards are often too steep and narrow for machine-harvesting. The slate soil on the slopes is known as llicorella due to its dark color and is the main feature of the soil’s terroir and the success of its native grapes: Ganarcha and Cariñena.
– Producer: Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of Etna’s benchmarks, a pioneer in parcel‑based vinification and in showcasing the purity of volcanic terroir. Terre Nere’s vineyards encompass 55 hectares (135 acres) in four different subregions across the island. Altitude here ranges from 1960 to 3280 feet (600 to1000m) above sea level, creating steep slopes within an undulating landscape. The steepest gradients are closely terraced and require manual farming practices. Many vines are approaching 100 years old with a handful of plots over 130 years having been planted prior to the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th Century.
– Producer: Bodega Envínate is one of Spain’s most influential projects, focused on minimal‑intervention wines with strong terroir identity. In the Canaries, Envínate is a highly regarded winery situated in the Tenerife Island, known for its terroir-driven, low-intervention wines made from ancient, indigenous grape varieties. The project, founded in 2008 by four enology graduates—Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez—focuses on expressing the unique volcanic landscapes of the Canary Islands, particularly in the Valle de la Orotava, where the Migan Tinto is produced, and the Taganana region.
– Producer: Founded by Lluís Llach, Celler Vall Llach is one of the emblematic names of modern Priorat, and specialist in old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha in Porrera. Their “trossos” (plots of land) are centenary farms, with vineyards between 90 and 110 years old of Carignan and Grenache. Their slopes are impressive and don’t allow mechanized work. They ensure we have an exclusive must for our selections. These vineyards are supplemented with others, chosen for their quality among the oldest and most famous in the villages of Porrera and Torroja, all cultivated by farmers who work on a regular basis with the winery. In addition, to further ensure the complexity of our wines, the winery planted a series of vineyards with grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier.
– The Wine: from the same producer, its Style: Deep, powerful, mineral red with firm tannin.
Tasting 283 November 18, 2025 Pinot Noir
NEW ZEALAND – The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is relatively young, but it’s a story of rapid rise and global acclaim. In just a few decades, New Zealand has established itself as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the Southern Hemisphere, known for purity, elegance, and vibrant fruit. The earliest vine plantings in New Zealand go back to the 1800s, brought by European settlers, but it didn’t catch on due to lack of wine infrastructure, limited viticultural knowledge, and inappropriate vineyard sites. It is only in the 1970s, that the modern New Zealand wine industry began to take shape, particularly in regions like Martinborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago, where the first producer recognized that the cool, dry climate and free-draining soils mirrored conditions in Burgundy The current trends are: greater focus on single-vineyard bottlings and sustainable practices; use of native yeasts, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal intervention; and increasing comparisons to Burgundy, especially from Martinborough and Central Otago.
ARGENTINA – Pinot Noir in Argentina is a niche production, with about 2,000 hectares of cultivation. Making great Pinot Noir is often seen as the holy grail of winemaking, a quest that Argentine Producers have been chasing for decades. The earliest Pinot Noir success in Argentina was actually as sparkling wine and many of the Pinot Noir clones available in Argentina are Champagne clones used for sparkling wine rather than still reds. Since the 2000’s producers have changed their genetic selection and red Pinot Noir wines have improved greatly. The best Pinot Noir comes from the cooler regions of high altitude Uco Valley (notably Galtallary) and low altitude Rio Negro [Barnes, 2022].
UNITED STATES – Pinot Noir was first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th century, primarily by European immigrants bringing vine cuttings with them. Initial plantings were scattered and experimental, and the grape didn’t gain immediate traction due to its sensitivity to climate and soil. In the early 20th century, California saw some of the earliest serious attempts at cultivating Pinot Noir, particularly in areas like the Santa Cruz Mountains and later in Sonoma and Napa. However, it wasn’t until after Prohibition that efforts really picked up again. A major turning point came in the 1960’s when planting Pinot Noir began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. By the 1980’s and 1990’s, both Oregon and cooler parts of California were producing world-class Pinot Noir. The grape became known for its elegance, complexity, and expression of terroir. American Pinot Noirs gained further credibility on the world stage after Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve placed well in international tastings. Pinot Noir is now one of the most prestigious and sought-after varietals in the U.S. Willamette Valley is widely considered one of the top Pinot-producing regions in the world, and California continues to innovate with diverse styles ranging from bold to delicate. Stylistically, these wines range from types similar to Burgundy’s (leaner, with firmer tannins and earth and mineral accents) to plusher and riper versions with rich dark fruit and spice notes, and styles in between.
CHILE – Pinot Noir likely arrived in Chile in the 19th century, brought by European settlers. However, it was not widely planted or seriously cultivated mainly because Chile’s central wine regions were too warm for Pinot to thrive. In the 1990s, Chilean winemakers began exploring coastal regions, realizing the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and Humboldt Current could support delicate grapes like Pinot Noir. Regions like Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley (especially Leyda), Limarí Valley, Bio-Bío and Itata in the south began to produce higher-quality, cooler-climate Pinot Noir. Winemakers started to use better clones of Pinot Noir (especially Dijon clones from Burgundy); implement lower yields and more precise vineyard management; and experiment with oak aging, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention techniques.
The wine – Vineyard & winemaking: this wine comes from the cool clay soils and rolling north facing slopes of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys region. The aged alluvial gravels and dense clay subsoils balance drainage and water availability to yield the region’s best Pinot Noir grapes. The key vineyards for this variety are Mustang, Delta and Barracks.
The Wine – Vineyard & winemaking: The vineyard soils are described as follows: depths of 0-40 cm: loose, sandy, loamy soil; between depths of 40-60 cm: reddish-hued compact calcium carbonate. Between depths of 60-110 cm: 90% boulder debris 5 cm in thickness, with dispersed calcium carbonate. Vineyard located in Gualtallary, Tupungato, elevation of 1450 m.s.n.m. (4757 feet). Fermentation is in roll-fermentor and 24 hL stainless steel tanks with 50% whole cluster. Fermented at an average temperature of 22ºC for 12 days. Aged 12 months in French oak (100% François Frères), 15% new barrels, 35% second-use and 50% third-use barrels.
The Wine – Vineyard & winemaking: the wine maker describes the soil of the vineyard, located in a steep slope on Chestnut Ridge, at a high elevation (around 1,800 feet), as weathered igneous rock of charnockite granite containing a complexity of quartz, pyroxene, feldspar converting to clay and other minerals. This wine is aged for 11 months in French oak barrels. (30% new French oak, with the remaining in neutral French oak).
The wine – Vineyard & winemaking: The wine is produced from fruits from the Quebrada Seca vineyard (Block 5 and Block 15) which is situated on the northern bank of the Limarí River at an altitude of 190m above sea level, just 22 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The soils are clay and rich in calcium carbonate; the temperatures are cool and the mornings cloudy, so the fruit ripens slowly, producing fresher wines. Block 5 is associated with the Santa Cristina soil series. They are of colluvial origin with angular stones and a high percentage of rusted iron-rich red clay and calcium carbonate in the subsoil. Block 15 is associated with the Quebrada Seca soil series. These are of colluvial origin, without angular stones and have a high percentage of rusted iron-rich clay and calcium carbonate. It has a semi-arid coastal climate. The proximity to the ocean and the cool sea breezes that blow directly towards the valley cool off and moderate the temperatures at the vineyard and this, together with the morning fog, results in slow, prolonged fruit ripening, making for fresher wines.
The very first thing to understand is that Greece is much more diverse in terms of climate than most people realize. The country has everything – from arid Mediterranean islands to wet, mountainous pine forests that receive snowfall in the winter. With such a diverse climate, you can expect Greek wines to be quite varied as well. So, one of the best ways to wrap your head around Greek wine is to split the country up into four overarching wine zones based on their climates. 
The Best Wines from Greece – a summary 
The Producer: Domaine Douloufakis Winery: In 1930, Dimitris Douloufakis became one of the first winemakers in Crete to produce wines professionally in his traditional, old winery. Their privately owned vineyards of 200 acres are located in the heart of the wine-growing zone of Crete, in Dafnes, Heraklion and at an altitude of 350 – 450 meters. The limestone soils of the area and the microclimate that prevails are considered ideal for the production of good quality grapes. This region has a long history in viticulture and also has been established as a Protected Designation of Origin for Liatiko wines .The privately owned vineyards are certified 100% organic and span over 70 acres of rolling hills in the Dafnes sub-region, a village close to Iraklio in Crete. 
– The Producer: Greek Wine Cellars, formerly known as Kourtaki Wines, is a large, historic wine producing and blottling company in Greece. The company was founded in 1895 by Vassili Kourtakis, one of the first Greeks to gain a diploma in oenology. In 1905, the company established in Markopoulo, Mesogia, an old wine-growing region where it continues to operate today. The company has continuously expanded its operations to include several regional wineries across Greece, including Ritsona, the Peloponnese, and Crete. It encompasses several brands split in three divisions: Kourtaki, Calliga and Oenoforos. Their wines are produced under PDO and PGI appellations. The winery’s annual production is approximately 30 milion bottles, half of which is exported. The The Ritsona winery in central Greece has always been at the forefront in implementing new methods and investing in modern technology with the aim of constantly improving the wines it produces. 
– The Producer: Kir-Yianni Estate was established in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry. Kir-Yianni, “Mr. John” in Greek, is best known for producing premium Xinomavro from the slopes of Mt. Vermio in Northwestern Greece. Today, Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, actively manages the winery and their two 30+ year-old estate vineyards located in Naoussa and Amyndeon. The Kir-Yianni philosophy is a desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the consumer. 
– The Producer: Mitravelas Estate was founded in the city center in 1913 and later in the 1950’s the three Mitravelas brothers Andreas, Spyros and Nikos took over the winery. By the end of the 20th century, the family owns about 10 hectares of vineyards in various areas of Nemea zone. The winery is located in Achaldia, one of the best sites in Nevea. Some pieces of the land are formed of extremely old vines which are dry farmed non irrigated. This results in very small annual production and on the other hand excellent concentrations and ripeness of the grapes. Elements necessary for the highest quality in the wines produced. 
Club del Vino - Washington DC area 
