Tasting No. 216 – December 9, 2109 – Merlot Blends

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

One of the World’s Most Famous Merlots

Tasting Overview  

The last CV tasting dedicated to Merlot was in June  of 2017.  Since the famous 2009 movie Sideways in which the lead character, a Pinot Noir fan, adamantly refuses to drink Merlot, this grape has become to be seen mainly as a support variety in blends. A 2009 study by Sonoma State University found that Sideways slowed the growth in Merlot sales volume and caused its price to fall, but the film’s main effect on the wine industry was a rise in the sales volume and price of Pinot Noir and in overall wine consumption. However, not all this was bad because Merlot had been until then massively planted and there was  a glut of Merlot wine not necessarily of good quality. This was not the case in Bordeaux where growers and  wine makers stuck to their centuries-old blending practices with Merlot  featuring prominently, particularly on the right banks of the Gironde and Dordogne rivers (i.e. the prestigious Saint Emilion , Pomerol. etc. )

The  main objective of this tasting is to revisit the Merlot grapes from Bordeaux and three USA famous producing regions, namely Washington Sate, Napa Valley, and Virginia.

Type of Tasting: Blind

Wines presenters: Juan Luis Colaiacovo

These are the wines:

  1. Cava Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Brut, Penedés, Spain
  2. 2016 Chateau Fleur Cardinale , Grand Cru Classe. Saint Emilion, Bordeaux
  3. 2015 Octagon . Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia, USA.
  4. 2017 Mystique . Sheridan Vineyard. Yakima Valley. Washington State, USA.
  5. 2015 Monticello Vineyards, Corley Family, Oak Knoll, Napa Valley, California

This is the menu:

  1. Cheese plate
  2. Arugula, lettuce and walnuts salad
  3. Fettuccine Alfredo with chicken
  4. Grilled stake in pepper sauce with roasted potatoes and vegetables
  5. Dessert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Marcello Averbug, Juan Luis Colaiacovo,  Ruth Connolly, Jaime Estupiñán, Alberto, Martha Kipnis (guest), Lucía Redwood, Alfonso Sanchez, Ricardo Santiago, Pedro Turina, German Zincke

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources)

Cava Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Brut, Pendés, Spain

The Wine: This cava is a Brut Nature made with free-run juice from grapes grown on our Espiells (Can Rius), La Cuscona and Mediona estates. It has a typically pale golden color, with a rich, elegant nose that begins with ripe white fruit and moves towards the notes that come from ageing: baked goods, toasted bread, spices. On the palate it is extremely seductive, with a fresh, pleasant texture and long finish that is once again reminiscent of white fruit. Thirty six months sur lie on average.

Pale gold in color, this Cava has aromas of mature white peach, toasted bread and green tea with hints of lemon citrus and apricots. Equally rich and broad on the palate, these flavors continue to unfold on the palate. Its fresh profile makes it a perfect match for paté, seafood, tapas, paellas, grilled poultry or cured meats. Reserva de la Familia is the flagship cuvée of the Juvé y Camps estate winery. In the beginning days of their wine making, the Juvé y Camps family had their own reserve of this Cava, and it is still the only Brut Nature that they make. Made from the free run juice of traditional varieties Macabeo, Xarel.lo and Parellada and a touch of Chardonnay, this is the Cava of choice of Spain’s royal family, and it is regularly served at all official banquets.

Experts Ratings: WE: 86; ST: 87

The Winery: Harmony of land, light, water. Mediterranean air on the vines. Respect for nature. Environmental balance, biodiversity and meticulous winemaking. The 271 hectares of carefully cultivated vineyards owned by Juvé & Camps are located in the most suited areas to each variety of grape, ensuing the best quality cava and wine. Pure expression of the terroir. It all began around 200 years ago when Joan Juvé Mir, a curious, meticulous, forward-thinking winemaker, laid the groundwork for the company. Later, his son Antoni Juvé Escaiola took over the vineyards, successfully tackling the horrible scourge of phylloxera. Joan Juvé Baqués, son of Antoni Juvé Escaiola and husband of Teresa Camps Ferrer, set up the underground facilities in the family home (casa pairal).

Juvé & Camps is a family-owned winery located in San Sadurní d’Anoia, a small town in the northeastern Penedès region near Barcelona. Founded in 1921 by Joan Juvé Baqués and his wife Teresa Camps Farré, the winery’s three-generation history has resulted in an international reputation for producing top-quality Cava. Juvé & Camps comprises 2700 acres of vineyards. Those acres are divided into three properties where native varieties Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel-lo are grown. From the beginning, the winery’s philosophy has been to use only traditional, high-quality winemaking practices. Its Cava is made in the método tradicional, as is Champagne, meaning it undergoes a secondary, in-bottle fermentation prompted by the addition of yeast and sugar. The wines are often aged in bottle for 18 months or more.

Read more here: https://www.juveycamps.com/en/

2016 Chateau Fleur Cardinale , Grand Cru Classe, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux

The Wine: Winemaker Notes:This wine displays a deep, dense-coloured hue, while on the nose there are powerful ripe fruit aromas mingling with floral notes. Feminine in style, the wines have a seductive, rich mouth-feel, underpinned by elegant, silky tannins. The finish is long and harmonious, promising very long ageing potential in bottle. Blend: 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RP: The 2016 Fleur Cardinale is medium to deep garnet-purple colored and bursts from the glass with crushed blackberries, mulberries and chocolate-covered cherries with hints of spice cake, dried herbs and fragrant soil. The palate is medium to full-bodied and wonderfully elegant with soft, rounded tannins and a great backbone of freshness, finishing perfumed.

Decanter: The grapes are sourced from a lovely vineyard owned by the Decoster family, located on cooler soils to the east of the appellation, where the late harvest of 2016, through to 25 October, is not unusual. There’s plenty to enjoy here, with bitter chocolate, fresh menthol notes and rich, tight tannins. It has well expressed cassis and blackberry flavours and a silky texture. Jean-Philippe Fort consulted, with the wine aged in 100% new oak barrels after vinification in stainless steel. Bottled unfiltered. 35hl/ha yield.

Experts Ratings: JS:94; RP:93; WS:92; D:92; WE:92

The Winery:  (from Wine.com) The estate was bought in 2001 by Florence and Dominique Decoster, and it has benefited form major investments which have made Chateau Fleur Cardinale one of the top names of the appellation. It is located to the east of the village of Saint-Émilion, on one of the high points of the appellation and it extends over 20 hectares. The vineyard is planted in a clay-limestone soil in the middle of the plateau on a pleasant late producing terroir. The vines are mainly merlot (70%) and then a balance of 15% cabernet sauvignon and 15% cabernet franc. With it’s great value for money, and showing great consistancy in it’s quality, Chateau Fleur Cardinale was promoted to “Saint-Emilion Grand cru classé” in 2006.

Read more at: https://fleurcardinale.com/en/

2015 Octagon . Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia, USA

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Nearly opaque bright deep violet color; bright, roasted aromas and flavors of baked berries, coffee beans, and dark chocolate with an even, lively, dryish body; warming, complex marinated cherries and beets, nut skins, with chewy, dusty tannins and moderate oak. Very dry, old-world style.

RP: The 2015 Octagon, the latest release, is 50% Merlot, with 30% Petit Verdot and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged for 12 months in 40% new French oak. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Dried herbs and a touch of cream open this up. It’s hard to see right now how it achieves the grandeur of the 2007 oldie this issue, but the truth is that the big wines here are often closed and not all they can be when young. There is also a touch of smoke, maybe a bit of reduction. That should blow off with time. The structure is fine, with a tight finish, while the nose is mostly herbs and that hint of smoke. The fruit here needs to become more expressive, which will require time. It will show a lot better around 2023. They have proven that they age very well, so there will be no problem holding this. There is no rush.

WE: This wine is full of fig, elderberry syrup and cooked black plum aromas and flavors, with cedar and dried herb tones adding complexity. The tannins are full and drying in feel but will settle with time in the cellar. A long, smooth finish brings a bit of black pepper spice.

Experts Ratings: JS: 93: RP: 90; WE: 89

The Winery:  (From: Wine Searcher) Monticello is an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the center of Virginia’s hilly Piedmont region.  he AVA is located around Charlottesville, just east of the more-substantial Shenandoah Valley. Covering four counties and some 800,000 acres (320,000ha), Monticello is one of Virginia’s more-premium wine regions.

Monticello’s climate is defined by its warm summers and the wind protection offered by the Blue Ridge Mountains, part of the Appalachian range. However, cold winters present a threat – as they do elsewhere in Virginia – with fatal vine-freeze affecting local vineyards. To lessen the risks posed by spring frosts, and to make the most of the sunny, south-easterly exposure offered by the mountain slopes, many vignerons have selected sites at altitudes of 800ft (245m) and above.

The threat of fungal diseases caused by relatively high humidity means that growers have to employ careful vineyard techniques to make the most of Monticello’s terroir. Trellising, canopy management and cultivar selection are all important considerations in the vineyards of Monticello. There is a wide array of soils in the area, ranging from silty loams to heavier clay-based soils.

Barboursville Vineyards are situated on the broad, rolling plateau and foothills of the Southwest Mountains in the Virginia Piedmont, running parallel with the Blue Ridge to the west, our 900 acres occupy soils of varying mixes of clay and alluvial calcareous deposits, with sloping exposures of even greater variety. In the temperate mid-Atlantic weather of our growing region, this estate presents the viticulturist with a dynamic mosaic of growing conditions. Some years favor one planting site for a given varietal, such as Cabernet Franc, and other years favor another in the same varietal.

Read more at:https://www.bbvwine.com/

2017 Mystique . Sheridan Vineyard. Yakima Valley. Washington State, USA

The Wine: Jeb Dunnuck-Yakima Valley, WA – “…Its deep ruby color is followed by a spicy, savory, herbal, yet textured and full-bodied red that has loads of red and black fruits, some spicy oak, and a clean, dry finish. It’s already impossible to resist yet should keep for 7-8 years”

Expert Rating: Jeb Dunnuck: 93

The Winery: In 1996, Scott found 76 acres of land located on a hilltop in the Yakima Valley. At that moment, he realized that his 17-year career in finance was coming to an end. The following year, he started the vineyard by planting ten acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah grapes. Sheridan Vineyard’s first harvest was in 2000. That year, Scott bottled a Syrah and a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc now known as L’Orage. Today, with the property fully planted, Scott continues to focus on sustainable farming practices and keeping yields low as the vineyard matures. All of this is driven by his passion to create wines of richness while maintaining a sense of beauty and balance.

Read more at: https://www.sheridanvineyard.com/

2015 Monticello Vineyards, Corley Family, Oak Knoll, Napa Valley, California

The Wine: This wine offers bright red cherry and raspberry aromas, accompanied by dried floral tones intertwined with hints of mocha, vanilla, and cola. On the palate, I find the wine supple and invigorating with a wonderful round midpalate that is well-balanced on a beam of acidity. The framework of gentle tannins leads into a lingering finish that is both full and bright. 96% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc.

2014 was another wonderful wine-growing season in Napa Valley. A true classic. A wet February gave way to a characteristically dry spring. Except for slight heat spikes in June and then again in July, the weather remained consistent throughout the growing season. The accumulation of heat during the summer led to a slightly early harvest. The sunny weather through to October allowed the grapes to develop more phenolic and flavor maturities with sugar levels remaining steady. The 2014 vintage repeated many of the blessings that came in the 2012 and 2013 vintages, from the deeply colored and velvety grape skins and brown seeds, to fully ripened grape tannins, and a wonderful natural balance of brix and acidity. Aged 26 months in 50% new French oak barrels.

Expert Ratings: WS: 90; WE: 90

The Winery: Kevin Corley presides as both President of the company, as well as our dedicated winegrower. We have grown from humble beginnings to now farming five vineyards in the Napa Valley. Our Monticello Estate and Knollwood Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District is planted to Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah varietals. Our State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, Tietjen Vineyard on Niebaum Lane in Rutherford and Yewell Vineyard on Ehlers Lane in St. Helena are each planted to premium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Jay Corley came to Napa Valley in 1969, seeking land to plant an estate vineyard. Over forty years later, Corley Family Napa Valley wines is proudly family-owned and operated by Jay’s sons, Kevin, Chris and Stephen Corley. We are a small winery producing approximately 15,000 cases of wine annually and have come to be known as one of the best wineries in Napa, operating under our MONTICELLO VINEYARDS and CORLEY wine brands.

Read more at: https://www.corleyfamilynapavalley.com/

CV Members Rating

View full evaluation here: 216 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2016 Chateau Fleur Cardinale , Grand Cru Classe. Saint Emilion, Bordeaux

Best Buy: 2016 Chateau Fleur Cardinale , Grand Cru Classe. Saint Emilion, Bordeaux

Technical Notes 

To read more about Merlot visit this NOTE prepared by Jairo Sanchez

 

 

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Tasting No. 215 –October 28, 2019 – Less Known Sicilian Wines

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Trapani- Bigstok Vineyards

Tasting Overview  

Wine grapes have always grown on the Italian island of Sicily. The ancient island was covered in grapevines long before ­the Greeks got there. Ancient civilizations were producing wine on the island as far back as the 17th century BC. Many of the grapes considered to be native to the area were actually brought in by the Phoenicians. The Mediterranean climate with abundant sunshine, balanced rainfall, hilly terrain and soils made rich by Mount Etna’s ash all create the perfect conditions for quality agriculture.

The island accounts for roughly over five million hectoliters of wine per year from what is Italy’s largest regional vineyard area—about 103,000 hectares, of which close to 90% are located in western Sicily. To put that in perspective, Sicily alone produces more wine than all of New Zealand, Greece or Bordeax.  However this volume is roughly half of what was produced in 1990.  The reduction is due to Sicilians concentrating in recent years to produce more quality and less quantity.  While low-quality homemade wines and musts for export were produced in the 1980s mainly to northern Italy to cut the wines of that region, export-quality wines are now produced, which has grown considerably in recent years.

Sicily has a great variety of grapes and soils and a very dry and warm climate which favors the varieties that produce wines with high sugar content and a lot of body (hence its use for fortified wines and as cutting musts for northern varieties).  On the other hand, Sicilians have concentrated on improving the quality of native strains and less on adapting imported strains.  It is known that since at least the 5th century BC the Greeks made wine in Sicily,  however even though the island was a center of trade and   arrival of merchant ships in the Mediterranean, no foreign strains arrived  appreciable amounts. However, there were some important foreign influences.  For example, the Arabs (who occupied Sicily from 823 to 1123 AD), introduced  the Moscatel of Alexandria to the island of  Pantelleria and  introduced the technique of grape passification.  This variety is preserved under the name  Zibibbo  and is used for dry or dessert wines. It is known that this grape is also the progenitor of Torrontés by crossing with other varieties.

A substantial share of Sicily’s production are sweet wines.  The most famous is the Marsala which became very famous from 1700 when an English merchant, John Woodhouse, tried along with his crew the local wine, strong and robust, and liked it.  Woodhouse shipped 50 barrels to England, after adding wine schnapps to prevent spoiling during the sea journey.  The Marsala was a great success.   However, its quality declined and by 1950 it was relegated to cooking wine.  In 1986 the Italian government produced new marsala-like rules similar to those that Portugal has for its Portos and today excellent sweet Marsalas are produced for dessert, snacks as well as dried

The presenters compiled a very informative note on Sicilian Wines. See the full note here: Sicilian Wines

 The  main objective of this tasting is to explore and evaluate a sample of Sicilian wines.

Type of Tasting: Open

Wines presenters: Agilson and Claudia Perazza

These are the wines:

  1. 2017 Tenuta delle Terre Nere – Etna Bianco DOC, Calderara Sottana Vigne Niiche
  2. 2015 Paolo Cali – Frappato Vittoria Pruvenza
  3. 2015 COS – Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, DOCG
  4. 2016 Graci Etna Rosso DOC

This is the menu:

  1. ZUPPA DI ARAGOSTA (Lobster Bisque)
  2. MELANZANE ALLA PARMIGIANA: appetizer size (Eggplant with tomato sauce, basil & mozzarella)
  3. LINGUINE CON TEGAMINO (Linguine with Prince Edward mussels, cherry tomatoes in white wine sauce)
  4. VITELLO CON MARSALA (Scaloppine of veal with shitake mushrooms in a reduction of Marsala wine sauce)
  5. Dessert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Marcello Averbug, Marilda Averbug (guest), Jose Brakarz, Jorge Claro, Ruth Connolly, Clara Estrada, Jaime Estupiñán,  Michelle Fryer (guest), Jorge Garcia-Garcia, Jaime Jaramillo, Agilson Perazza, Claudia Perazza, John Redwood, Lucía Redwood, Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Cristian Santelices, Carlos Silvani (guest), Pedro Turina, German Zincke.

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources) .

2017 Tenuta delle Terre Nere – Etna Bianco DOC, Calderara Sottana Vigne Niiche 

The Wine: As opposed to my other Etna Bianco, which is a field blend of five varieties, Vigne Niche is 100% Carricante. I made this wine for the first time in 2007, after having had the fortune of tasting a 42 year old Carricante from the East side of the Etna. So beautiful it was, so vigorous and impeccable in its venerable age, that I was moved to produce something like it myself. I tried to imagine how a talented winemaker would have made such a wine half a century ago, with little or no technology. And sought to do the same. Vigne Niche is the result. Carricante grapes from old vines and many different tiny parcels (vigne niche), for Carricante is a rare commodity in a D.O.C. overwhelmingly devoted to reds, rarer still on Etna’s Northern slopes. In fact, Carricante vineyards answer for only 4% of the appellation. Vigne Niche is barrel fermented and aged in large oak barrels. It is bottled roughly 12 months after harvest, then released after six more months of bottle age. A shy, late blooming wine of unusual complexity and great longevity, it will reward you for your patience with a rare, noble beauty. Have it with leek, pumpkin or onion soup, lobster bisque, risotto, oven baked fish, poultry, braised rabbit.

“RP: The 2017 Etna Bianco Calderara Sottana is identified as Cuvée delle Vigne Niche on my technical sheet, although I do not see that single-vineyard designation identified on the bottle label. This is a beautiful white wine with lasting aromas of citrus, passion fruit and crushed mineral. This compact white wine hits the palate with sharp and linear focus. That tightness you get at this young stage should evolve and flesh out over the next 5 years of bottle aging. This wine is fermented in stainless steel at low temperatures and it completes malolactic fermentation before going into large oak casks for ten months. Some 9,000 bottles were made.”

The Winery:  (From Wine Searcher) Tenuta delle Terre Nere is a Sicilian wine estate cultivating vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna. It is a relatively young company, but is known for its high average vine age, including pre-phylloxera vines from which it makes exclusively DOC Etna wines. The varieties grown are all local Etna varieties with Carricante and Nerello Mascalese being the most important.

The estate’s first commercial vintage was in 2002. It has grown to encompass almost 35 hectares (86 acres) of vineyards in four different areas, as well as using fruit bought from local growers. All of Terre Nere’s vineyards are farmed organically and have been since the winery was established.

Terre Nere’s vineyards range from 1960-3280ft (600-1000m) above sea level, and are planted on steep slopes. The steepest gradients are closely terraced and need to be worked entirely manually. Many vines are approaching 100 years old and one parcel is more than 130, and was planted before the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere makes two Etna Bianco wines, one a blend of Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia and Grecanico, and one entirely from Carricante. Its Etna Rosso is blended from old and young vine Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. On top of this, the portfolio includes single-vineyard wines made from high-quality fruit from each individual cru, and aged in oak for up to 20 months. One of Terre Nere’s most highly regarded wines is a single-vineyard red wine from its oldest pre-phylloxera vines. It is named La Vigna di Don Peppino after the winemaker who tended the vineyard for more than seven decades.

Read more at: http://www.tenutaterrenere.com/en/

2015 Paolo Cali – Frappato Vittoria Pruvenza 

The Wine: (WE) This bright, savory red opens with intense red cherry, tilled soil and Mediterranean brush aromas while the round, easy-drinking palate doles out juicy raspberry, strawberry jam and white pepper flavors. It’s nicely balanced, with supple tannins and refreshing acidity. Enjoy soon.

 

The Winery:  The Wine Maker: ‘I am Paolo Calì.: I am a winemaker pharmacist who bet on a project that is focused on my territory, devoted to the cultivation of the vineyard and the production of wine, re-establishing the age-old tradition of my family in these same lands. My winery has grown together with me and those who work with me, with passion and dedication.It was the dream that I cradled as a child, the dream of reviving the countryside where my father took me every afternoon after school. I have the ambition to produce real wines, free from conceptual schemes, free not to pursue fashion and free to excite. I’m proud to have the privilege of transmitting my thoughts and beliefs into your glass and on your table.

The vines are cultivated on sea sands, shaped by the wind and rain like dunes, heated by the summer sun to become inaccessible. I decided to plant and cultivate only native Sicilian vines, such as Frappato,Nero d’Avola and Grillo, and to vinify them enhancing the peculiarities of the soil and the climate, which guarantees important temperaturevariations; all this translates into a marked sapidity and minerality,in enveloping perfumes and in a great elegance.”

Read more at: https://www.paolocali.com/?lang=en

2015 COS – Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, DOCG

The Wine: WE: A blend of 60% Nero dÁvola and 40% Frappato. Dark berry, baking spice, tilled soil and a hint of new leather aromas unfold on this polished, earthy red. The juicy palate tastes of black cherry, cinnamon, orange zest, and aromatic herb while its mineral vein is noticeable alongside smooth tannins and fresh acidity.

The Winery: (From Wine Searcher) Azienda Agricola COS is a wine producer located on the Italian island of Sicily in the historic province of Ragusa. The estate was founded in 1980 by friends Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano, the first letter of their surnames giving rise to the company’s name. The estate is well known for its production of Sicilian wines from Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and for its traditional and ancient winemaking practices.

Azienda Agricola COS wines are made from biodynamically grown fruit by natural winemaking techniques. The wines contain extremely low sulphites and most are fermented and aged in terracotta amphora dug into the earth. Wines not aged in amphora are aged in Slavonian oak or resin-lined concrete vats and bottled in traditional Sicilian squat bottles.

The winery produces wine from the island’s only DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, made from a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato. It also produces varietal and blended wines from native Italian varieties including Zibibbo, Grecanico, and Inzolia and classic varieties including Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Pithos is Azienda Agricola COS’s best known and most sought after wine. The IGT is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato that has been fermented by indigenous yeasts and aged in amphora.

Read more at: http://www.cosvittoria.it/en/

2016 Graci Etna Rosso DOC

The Wine: 100% Nerello Mascalese from low yields, with a long maceration for a month. A dry vintage, dark and solidly ruby. Very sophisticated perfume, all cedar and graphite, tight and vinous with a solidity to the aromas and a youthfulness. The palate is filled with creamy, rich red and black fruit. A very different expression of Mascalese with a sour cherry acid grip too, and a long, serious, slightly ferrous finish that is lovely (Tom Cannavan).

This elegant expression of the Nerello Mascalese grape grown on the slopes of Mount Etna has a lovely fragrance of blue flower, berry and spice. Pressed wildflower, hay, fennel and ripe berry scents mingle together in the glass. The refreshing palate combines crushed strawberry, juicy red cherry, saline and a hint of baking spice alongside bright acidity. (WE).

This Etna wine has received good scores from various critics. Based on critic scores and price, this wine represents great value. This is one of the most popular wines from the region (Wine-Searcher)

The Winery:  “We are situated on the North slope of Mount Etna at Passopisciaro, an area where viticulture goes back several thousand years.

Our vineyards are to be found at an altitude of between 600 and 1,000 metres above sea level. Planting density ranges between 6,000 and 10,000 vines per hectare. Some of the vines are on their own roots, that is to say are ungrafted.

We only cultivate traditional varieties indigenous to Mount Etna and aim to respect local traditions as well as the distinct characters of each vintage.

The land decides, not us. We believe that only by listening carefully and responding to the expressions of Nature in our territory ca be great wines be born. Great because true.

Read more at: http://www.graci.eu/?lang=en

CV Members Rating

View full evaluation here: 215 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2015 COS – Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, DOCG

Best Buy: 2015 COS – Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, DOCG

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Tasting No. 214 – September 30, 2019 – The Effects of Blending

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Tasting Overview  

In this meeting the participants will taste, one red blend and three red varietals made 100% of the grapes in the blend. The  main objectives of this blind tasting are to: a) understand the reasons for blending; b) identify the blend wine; and, c) identify the three main varietal wines in the blend based on the characteristics that each one contributes as explained by the presenters. There will also a Chateauneuf du Pape white blend for participants to evaluate. While southern Rhone red blends are far more common than white blends, the latter are included in several notable appellations in the region. Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is the most famous of these, using Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette and a small handful of less known local varieties.

Type of Tasting: Blind

Wines presenters: Mario Aguilar, Germán Zincke

These are the wines:

  1. 2017 Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, White Blend, Rhone Valley, France 
  2. 2015 Cousiño Macul, Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reservas, Maipo Valley, Chile
  3. 2016 Faust, Cabernet Sauvignon Red Blend , Napa Valley, California
  4. 2016 Catena, Appellation San Carlos, Cabernet Franc, Valle de Uco Argentina
  5. 2016 Chateau Belle Vue, Petit Verdot, Haut Medoc , Bordeaux, France

This is the tentative menu:

  1. Lobster bisque
  2. Gnocchi au gratin
  3. Capri salad
  4. Filet Mignon with sides
  5. Dessert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Ruth Connolly, Clara Estrada,  Jorge Garcia-Garcia, Alberto Gómez, Jaime Jaramillo, Orlando Mason, Italo Mirkow, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Ricardo Santiago, German Zincke, Patricia García (guest), Pedro Belli (guest)

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources, including mostly  Wine Searcher, Wine Folly,  and Wine.com) .

2017 Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape White Blend, Rhone Valley, France

The Wine:Winemaker Notes: A beautiful pale yellow color with green highlights. On the nose, expressive and complex with pear, pastry and candied citrus tones. Lovely freshness on the palate, with hints of white peach and dried candied fruits. The finish is long with floral notes, a touch of pineapple and green banana, all wrapped in a beautiful sweetness. This elegant and complex white wine pairs beautifully with a wide variety of seafood dishes and can also stand up to lighter meat dishes such as roasted chicken or sautéed veal.

WE: Invigorating aromas of tangerine and lemon zest introduce this luminously fresh, fruity white blend. The palate offers boldly concentrated flavors of yellow peach and mango nuanced by hints of nut, toast and spice. Crisp acidity and a murmur of tannin edge the finish. Delightful already for its fresh, silky appeal, it should improve through 2030.

The principal varieties involved in a white wine from the southern Rhone are any combination of Grenache BlancMarsanneRoussanneViognierUgni BlancClairetteBourboulenc and Picpoul, though other local grapes may be used where appropriate. In the past decade Vermentino (known locally as Rolle) is appearing in an increasing number of blended wines from the southern Rhone.

White Rhône blends are quite versatile food pairing wines and can work with light to medium rich meals that might often be matched to red wines. Heavier fish dishes with bold seasoning like grilled swordfish with caper butter or baked, herb-crusted mahi-mahi are natural allies for these flavorful wines. Other ideal dishes include roast pork in mustard sauce, poached lobster with beurre blanc, or a rich and savory vegetable quiche.

The Winery: Chateau La Nerthe’s existence is documented as early as 1560, while suggesting an even more distant past dating to the dawn of the region’s wine culture in the 12th century making it one of Chateauneuf’s oldest estates. Located in the heart of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape AOC region of southern France not far from Avignon, the 225 acres of Chateau La Nerthe vineyards are in a single block around the Chateau and have been certified Organic since 1998. The terroir is very typical for the region: vineyards runs along a slope, at the top of which the vines dig their roots into soils of sandy-clay, on the surface there is a layer of the famous galettes, large, round, well-worn stones that originated in the Alps, having been carried down to the Rhône by the glaciers of previous ice ages. The further down the slope of the vineyard you travel, the more these stones dominate. All 14 of the permitted primary varietals are plante.  Grenache dominates 62% of vineyards and the vines average over 40 years old. Chateau La Nerthe is THE expression of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Read more at: http://www.chateaulanerthe.fr/

 2015 Cousiño Macul, Cabernet Sauvignon, Antiguas Reservas, Maipo Valley, Chile

The Wine: This is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine.

Winemaker’s Notes.  Intense bright ruby red color. The aromas are clearly fruity and spicy, giving a first impression of plums, raspberry, cherry and a flowers with fresh pepper — followed by notes of toffee, vanilla and smoke. On the palate, the wine has a medium to high acidity and round tannins. It’s an elegant wine with an intense body and a fresh and long mouth feel.

Great pairing is tenderloin with pepper or truffle sauce and grilled vegetables. Also excellent is goat cheese or mushroom risotto.

The Winery:  Founded in 1856, Cousiño-Macul is the only 19th century winery in Chile that remains in the hands of the original founding family. All Cousiño-Macul reserve wines are estate grown, vinted and bottled. After seven generations and over 150 years, Cousiño-Macul’s mission rings clear — to produce world-class wines that are unmistakably Chilean, carrying the distinctive character of the Maipo Valley. In 1994, the capital city of Santiago had expanded to the point of surrounding the original Macul estate in the southeast of the city, so the search for an additional single estate vineyard location began. In May 1996, the Cousiño family bought 750 acres of land in Buin, an agriculturally rich subregion of the Maipo Valley, about 20 miles southeast of Santiago. The Buin estate met the Cousiños’ ambitious criteria of soil composition, climate and proximity to the Andes Mountains. Few wine producers can make a completely new start, incorporating the best of their age-old experience and the most contemporary technology available. As technology continues to advance in the vineyards and wineries around the world, Cousiño Macul has seized this opportunity to innovate while staying true to the most important part of their long history.

Read more at: https://www.cousinomacul.com/en/

2016 Faust, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

The Wine:Winemaker Notes: The 2016 Faust Cabernet is a blend of their estate vineyards in Coombsville and Rutherford and mountain sourcing in Atlas Peak, Mount Veeder, and Howell Mountain. Intense yet fresh with juicy blue and black notes. Notes of dark chocolate and dried herbs seduce the palate while silky tannins and lifting acidity leads to a layered and lingering finish.

RP: The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is blended of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged for 19 months in 30% new French oak. The core of the fruit comes from the Coombsville estate blended with some mountain and valley floor fruit from elsewhere. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it offers a beautiful core of ripe blackcurrants, blackberries and lavender with nuances of cedar chest, pencil lead and camphor plus a waft of tilled soil. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a nice, firm backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and well-played freshness delivering a long, vibrant finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon is probably the most famous red wine grape variety on Earth. It is rivaled in this regard only by its Bordeaux table mate Merlot, and its opposite number in Burgundy, Pinot Noir. From its origins in Bordeaux, Cabernet has successfully spread to almost every wine growing country in the world. It is now the key grape variety in many first-rate New World wine regions, most notably Napa Valley, Coonawarra and Maipo Valley. Wherever they come from, Cabernet Sauvignon wines always seem to demonstrate a handful of common character traits: deep color, good tannin structure, moderate acidity and aromas of blackcurrant, tomato leaf, dark spices and cedar wood.

Cabernet Sauvignon undoubtedly dominates Napa Valley today, covering half of the land under vine, commanding the highest prices per ton and earning the most critical acclaim. Cabernet Sauvignon’s structure, acidity, capacity to thrive in multiple environs and ability to express nuances of vintage make it perfect for Napa Valley where incredible soil and geographical diversity are found and the climate is perfect for grape growing. Within the Napa Valley lie many smaller sub-AVAs that express specific characteristics based on situation, slope and soil—as a perfect example, Rutherford’s famous dust or Stags Leap District’s tart cherry flavors

The Winery: Faust Winery is the creation of Augustin Huneeus and it continues to satisfy his long-held desire to produce a wine that embodies the most seductive characteristics of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Born in Santiago, Chile, Agustin is one of the few vintners who has dedicated his entire professional life to wine.  With a career spanning 50 years, he has produced wine in more than 15 countries.  Perhaps best known today for creating Quintessa, the stunning bio dynamic vineyard and winery estate he and his wife Valeria own in Rutherford, Napa Valley, Agustin is recognized as a driving force in how fine wine is produced, recognized, sold and marketed in the United States.  The philosophy that great vineyards make great wine is his guiding principle.

The Faust vineyard is in Coombsville, Napa Valley’s newest appellation located in the eastern foothills south of Atlas Peak.  It consists of 110 acres of mature Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines, with small plantings of Petit Verdot, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc.  The vineyard is farmed in ten distinct blocks, all of which have a unique character.  Yields on the property are especially low as extra care is put into practices such as winter pruning, green harvest and selective picking. Faust also seeks small lots from family growers in other unique Napa Valley growing districts including Yountville, Atlas Peak, Mount Veeder, St. Helena and Rutherford.

Faust seeks to express the complexity of Cabernet Sauvignon and the diversity of the Napa Valley by sourcing from estate vineyards in Coombsville and Rutherford, as well as small lots from spectacular mountain AVAs such as Atlas Peak, Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain. Uniting these disparate regions allowed Faust to create a rich, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that truly represents the soul of the grape.

Read more at: https://faustwine.com/

2016 Catena, Appellation San Carlos, Cabernet Franc, Valle de Uco, Argentina

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: The Catena Cabernet Franc Appellation El Cepillo presents a purple color with red ruby tones. The nose offers elegant aromas of spices, and fresh herbs as thyme and rosemary, red berries, cassis and raspberries, with layers of cedar. The mouthfeel is full and rich with cassis, raspberries flavors and notes of black pepper and oregano . The finish is bright and fresh with finely grained tannins.

RP: The Appellation range keeps growing, and the new name this time is the 2016 Appellation San Carlos Cabernet Franc, produced with grapes from the most fashionable red variety at the moment. It is from 20-year-old vines in El Cepillo, one of the cooler places of San Carlos in Valle de Uco. Furthermore, 2016 was a particularly cool year, so the wine is really a cool climate example. It matured in French oak barrels for one year before bottling. It has tons of black pepper aromas and flavors, balsamic and with perfect ripeness. 2016 has produced outstanding wines in this Appellation range.”

This versatile wine is fantastic paired with rich meat dishes such as stews and braises, Latin dishes with heat and a little kick such as enchiladas or moles and lamb dishes and tomato-based pasta and sauces. This wine is also delicious paired with dark chocolate and berries and served alongside a cheese plate.

Cabernet Franc, the subtler and more delicate of the Cabernets, is a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc is lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon, making a bright pale red wine that contributes finesse and lends a peppery perfume to blends with more robust grapes. Depending on the growing region and style of wine, additional aromas can include tobacco, raspberry, bell pepper, cassis, and violets. While both are important grapes in modern day, high quality Bordeaux, interestingly, Cabernet Franc most likely originated from the Basque region of France sometime during the middle 1600’s. Today Cabernet Franc produces outstanding single varietal wines across the wine-producing world, with some of its most classic examples from France’s Loire Valley, in the regions of Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny. Outside of France, Cabernet Franc performs quite well in parts of California, New York and Virginia. It is also a great blending grape.

The Winery: Bodega Catena Zapata is one of the foremost wine estates in Mendoza, Argentina. Founded in 1902 and still in family hands, it is particularly known for its rich, full-bodied red wines, usually made from Malbec, and also for its barrel-fermented Chardonnay sourced from high-altitude sites, which combine ripeness with fresh acidity. Owner Nicolás Catena was Decanter Magazine man of the year in 2009.

The estate is made up of six vineyards in the Luján de Cuyo, Tupungato and San Carlos sub-regions of Mendoza, at altitudes ranging from 3000-4750 feet (920-1450m) above sea level. The winery, with its striking, Mayan-influenced pyramid shape, is located in Agrelo, in Luján de Cuyo.

San Carlos Vineyard (1090m/3576ft). Alluvial origin. Loamy sandy soil with thick calcareous layers with rounded rocks on the bottom (70% Sand – 10% Clay – 20% Silt).

Read more at: http://www.catenawines.com/index.php

2016 Chateau Belle Vue, Petit Verdot, Haut Medoc , Bordeaux, France

The Wine: WE: Bold and ripe, this rich wine is concentrated and full of spicy black fruits. Produced from a tiny parcel of Petit Verdot that escaped the devastating frost of 1956, it is dark, dense with layers of blueberry flavors alongside the firm tannins. The richness of the wine and its weight promise good aging. Drink from 2023.

JS:  A red with gorgeous density and dried-berry, spice and blueberry character. Full and polished. Lovely texture. This is 100% Petit Verdot. Exceptional quality. First ever wine from here.

Notes taken from Wine-SearcherPetit Verdot is a red wine grape whose small, thick-skinned berries are valued for their depth of color. Traditionally the variety has played a small role in the classic blends of Bordeaux, but varietal Petit Verdot wines are now appearing in many regions of southern Europe, the Americas and Australia.  It ripens much later than the other varieties in Bordeaux, often too late, so it fell out of favour in its home region. When it does ripen it adds tannin, colour and flavour, in small amounts, to the blend.

Petit Verdot has, unsurprisingly, a less well known but larger-berried cousin,  Gross Verdot. The Verdot part of the name translates roughly as “green one” and reflects the variety’s propensity to under-ripeness; in cool seasons Petit Verdot vines produce bunches speckled with green, unripe berries.  Due to the high levels of anthocyanin in the berry’s thick skins, Petit Verdot wines tend to have a dense, inky, violet-black appearance. They also have high tannin levels, thanks to the small berries – specifically their high ratio of skin and seeds to juice

The Winery: We cultivate 24 hectares (60 acres) of terraced mountainside stretching from our lowest vineyards at 950 meters to the highest at over 1200 meters of altitude.  The vineyards wrap around the valley under Bhamdoun village from NE to SW, enjoying snow and rain from November to April followed by a dry warm summer.

The vines are dry-farmed from year two.  No pesticides or herbicides are used. Cover crops help maintain soil structure, avoid erosion and balance water availability.  Grapes are hand-picked by varietal in cases of 20 kg at the moment of optimal balance between potential alcohol and acidity.

Our organic vineyards are carefully pruned to yield just over one ton of grapes per hectare, an unheard of amount which necessarily reflects the demands of our mountain terriors.  We’ve elected to practice dry farming, opting for small, thick-skinned grapes of wonderful color and concentration.  Our focus on excellence begins in the vineyards.

All fruit is hand-harvested by varietal in cases of 20 kgs when an optimal level of potential alcohol and acidity is attained. Natural fermentation, with no added yeast, lasts three to four weeks and takes place in stainless steel tanks.  Wine is then pressed and stored until malolactic fermentation is complete.  Barrel aging, again by varietal, extends over 24 months in new French oak.  Blends are then selected using the clean, finished wine.  The blended wine is bottled and aged again for at least two years

Read more at: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/haut-medoc-lesser-appellations/belle-vue/

CV Members Rating

View full evaluation here: 2104 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Blend Faust, Napa Valley, California

Best Buy: 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Cousiño Macul Antiguas Reservas

Technical Notes 

Wine Production and Blending: [Information obtained from google.com]

The earliest archaeological evidence of wine produced from grapes has been found at sites in China (c. 7000 BC), Georgia (c. 6000 BC), Lebanon (c 5000 BC), Iran (c. 5000 BC), Greece (c. 4500 BC), and Sicily (c. 4100 BC). However, there is no certainty as to when the practice of wine blending started.  It seems that combining grape varieties to improve flavor and aromatic qualities didn’t become popular until the 1800s, many centuries after wine consumption and knowledge became fashionable.

Famous Blends. Though there are infinite variants for blending, nineteen (19) blends have become famous, producing wines with desirable characteristics, based on tradition and experience.  Only eighteen grapes (18) are eligible for these blends, although each wine denomination allows for fewer specific grapes.  These can go from two (i.e. Red Bourgogne, White Bourgogne) to fourteen for Chateauneuf du Pape.

Emerging blends. More recently other blends have appeared. These comprise: Pinot Noir; CMS (Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz); Zinfandel; Carmenere; Malbec and others.

Wines added for blending.  These wines are each generally added in smaller quantities than the main wine.  For red wines, for example, Cabernet Frank, Petit Verdot, Petit Shiraz, etc.  For white wines, for example, Aligote, Garnacha Blanca, Trebbiano, etc. However in some blends there might not be a main wine.

Read more about blending here:

https://clubvino1.com/2014/07/29/blended-wines-an-overview/

https://daily.sevenfifty.com/the-role-of-major-and-minor-grapes-in-wine-blends/

https://winefolly.com/tutorial/what-grapes-make-the-best-wine-blends/

The Grapes Behind Your Favorite Wine Blends

The Joys of Blending

Chateauneuf du Pape.

The wine of Chateauneuf-du-Pape takes its name from the relocation of the papal court to Avignon. After moving in 1309, Pope Clément V ordered that vines were planted. But it was his successor, John XXII, who established the vineyards. The name however, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, translated as “the pope’s new castle,” didn’t really stick until the 19th century.

According to law, eighteen grape varieties are allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and most wines are blends of some mix of these. For reds, Grenache is the star player with Mourvedre and Syrah coming typically second. Others used include Cinsault, Counoise and occasionally Muscardin, Vaccarèse, Picquepoul Noir and Terret Noir.

Only about 6-7% of wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape is white. Blends and single-varietal bottlings are typically based on the soft and floral Grenache Blanc but Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne are grown with some significance

 

 

 

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Tasting No.213 – August 26 , 2019 – Wines from Jura

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Tasting Overview  

Jura – From Wine-Pages.com

( From BuyWine.com) The Jura region is quite small, a narrow strip of land sandwiched between Burgundy and Switzerland. Five grapes predominate. Three are traditional local varieties. Poulsard is a red grape used mostly in dry reds and sparkling rosés. Red Trousseau needs a lot of sunshine to ripen and only grows in the warmest parts of this cool climate region. White Savagnin (called Nature here) is used in all the region’s appellations for the idiosyncratic vin jaune(‘yellow wine’). The other two grapes are the better known Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (called Melon d’Arbois and Gamay Blanc here). They are used to make dry wines in a fresh fruity international style.

Jura- Taken from Buywine.com

Vin Jaune, like dry fino Sherry that is aged with the yeast called flor resting on its surface, is matured in a barrel under a film of yeast, known as the voile. Vin Jaune shares certain aromas with Sherry, but it is not fortified. Jura is also known for its sweet Vin de Paille (straw wine), from grapes that have been dried on mats of straw, thus concentrating the sugars and flavors. Both Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille are made under the ArboisL’Etoile and Cotes du Jura appellations. The best Vin Jaune is produced under the Chateau Chalon appellation. The Jura makes sparkling wines under the appellation Crémant du Jura.

The  main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from Jura.

Type of Tasting: Open

Wines presenter: Ricardo Santiago, Jorge Requena

A PDF version of the presenter’s slide show is here:VersâoFinal_Jura_Tasting213_ClubdelVino

These are the wines:

  1. 2016 Berthet-Bondet, Savagnin, Savagnier, Cotes du Jura 
  2. 2015 Domaine Rolet, Poulsard, Arbois
  3. 2017 Michel Gahier, Trousseau, Les Grand Vergers, Arbois
  4. 2011 Domaine Rolet, Vin Jaune, Arbois
  5. NV Domaine Rolet, Macvin du Jura, Rouge

This is the menu:

  1. Smoked Salmon
  2. Ravioli di Vitello in aurora sauce
  3.  Chicken breast with cream saure and morel mushrooms
  4. Comté cheese and walnuts and blue cheese.
  5. Dessert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Marcello Averbug, Jose Brakarz, Jorge Claro, Ruth Connolly, Clarita Estrada, Jaime Estupiñan, Alberto Gómez, Jaime Jaramillo, Orlando Mason, Italo Mirkow, Agilson Perazza, Claudia Perazza, John Redwood, Lucia Redwood, Jairo Sanchez, Ricardo Santiago, Germán Zincke.

Guests: Jaime Sujoy

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources) .

2016 Berthet-Bondet, Savagnin, Savagnier, Cotes du Jura

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Made solely from Savagnin grapes, this wine is kept in the barrel for three years. Often less full bodied than the TRADITION it combines character with finesse. This wine comes to its best after several years and can be kept for 20 or 30 years.

Parcellar selection, manual harvest, pressing of the whole grapes, ageing in stainless steel tank during 12 months

The Winery: In 1985, Chantal and Jean Berthet-Bondet took over a domaine that had not been producing wine for 50 years and brought it back to life. The vineyards spread on 10 hectares, 5 in Chateau-Chalon and 5 in Cotes-de-Jura appellation. Chateau-Chalon possesses the noblest terroir in the Jura region. A composition of limestone and red and gray marl confers both power and great finesse to these wines.

Bondet uses indigenous yeasts, except for the Cremant. By precaution he prepares a “pied de cuve” to start the fermentations of the various cuves. This is made from a small quantity of grapes that ferments spontaneously. He verifies with the lab that these are the right yeasts before incorporating them into the cuves. Selected yeasts are used for the second fermentation of the cremant.

Farming practices: The domaine is certified organic. The wines are vegan (when fined, which is rare, it is with bentonite).

Read more at (only in French): http://berthet-bondet.com

2015 Domaine Rolet, Poulsard, Arbois

The Wine: (Le Bon Vin) Made exclusively from the low yield production Poulsard grapes and aged in casks for 12 months the Arbois Poulsard Vieilles Vignes has a nose red fruits, strawberries and cherry. On the palate there is a good balance of fine tannins making it an extremely pleasant wine. Ideal when paired with good quality poultry, smoked and grilled meats.

(Amantivino.com) This light-bodied but delightfully complex red comes from one of our favorite regions, the mountainous Jura. Pleasant acidity and bright red fruit lead the way, with subtle spice and a gamey, wild undertone. An ideal red for trickier food pairings like spicy cuisines and seafood! Food Pairing Ramen, pad thai, seared tuna steaks

The Winery:  Domaine Rolet is established as one of the Jura vineyard flagships and its wines propose the whole terroir richness through the large range of Jura grape varieties. For Whites, Chardonnay (most planted grape variety in Jura) and Savagnin (prestigious Vin Jaune grape variety). For Reds, Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir.

Domaine Rolet is composed of 65 Hectares of which :

– 40 Hectares in Arbois
– 23 Hectares in Côtes du Jura
– 2,43 Hectares in the prestigious appellation l’Etoile
– 32 Ares in Château-Chalon

The medium age of the vineyards is 45 years old.

Read more at: https://www.rolet-arbois.com/en/

2017 Michel Gahier, Trousseau, Les Grand Vergers, Arbois

The Wine: (Livingwines.com) The vines for this wine are even older than those used for the La Vigne du Louis having been planted over 80 years ago. The wine is named after the lieu dit (parcel of land) where the vines grow. Here the gentle slopes are fully exposed to the sun allowing the grapes to ripen perfectly. The marl in which the vines thrive add minerality to the wine.

This is a very, very good example of a Trousseau wine having the delicacy that we associate with this fragile grape but also an extraordinary depth of flavor and a complexity that is intriguing. There are tannins present giving it structure but they are not aggressive. The wine is lively on the nose, has deep, deep flavors (hints of cherry and raspberry at the front of the palate and forest floors in autumn in the middle). It has a lingering mineral aftertaste. No sulphite is added.

The Winery: The Gahier family has been resident in the Jura since 1525. The family domaine is 6.5 hectares with the vineyards concentrated in the village of Montigny-les-Arsures, the place recognized as the home of Trousseau and a viticultural district that is acknowledged to produce some of the finest wines of the Arbois appellation.

Gahier harvests and vinifies his wines parcel by parcel. Each wine ultimately is derived exclusively from a single vineyard site. His whites are produced “sous voile”, although the “Les Crets” cuvée is less dominated by that process than the “La Fauquette” or the “Les Follasses” bottlings which spend considerably more time aging in barrel. The Savagnin and the Vin Jaune are both classic versions, a testament to the old traditions of the Jura where the whites are left in barrel without “topping up”. The reds are as mineral-driven as one could expect from the Jura, with a freshness and length that are compelling. The viticulture is organic (although not “certified”). The reds are destemmed; the yields are quite low (averaging 30 hectoliters per hectare). There is a period of cold maceration followed by a cuvaison of approximately one month with some pigeage done in the initial parts of the process. The wines, both white and red, are aged in old foudres and barrel. The wines are bottled without filtration.

2011 Domaine Rolet, Vin Jaune, Arbois

The Wine: Bright color of straw yellow. Powerful nose that reveals caramel  aromas evolving on woody notes. Frank attack followed by a generous mouth and a beautiful length. The Vin Jaune is produced solely from the Savagnin grape variety. After fermentation is complete, the wine is transfered to old barrels, which are not always completely filled, then stored in an aerated environment either above or below ground with natural temperature variations (i.e. no temperature control). The wine in barrel is not allowed to be topped up or moved for 60 months. A film or veil of surface yeas (similar to Sherry’s flor) develops over time and metabolyzes ethyl acetate and acids into aldehydes. At the sme time, this film protects the wine from direct contact with air. This controlled oxidation delivers a wine of unique ‘sherried’ characteristics and also conveys long ageing potential. Vin Jaune can last for decades.

The wine may not be bottled until 6 years and 3 months after the vintage (or January, 7 years after harvest). By law it must be bottled in an unusual 620ml bottle called a ‘clavelin.’

The Winery: (See notes above)

NV Domaine Rolet, Macvin du Jura, Rouge

The Wine: Macvin du Jura is a sweet wine appellation of the Jura region in eastern France. In geographical terms it covers the entire region, although it accounts for only 3% of Jura’s total wine production.

Macvin du Jura is a powerful vin de liqueur. It has been produced here for more than six centuries, although it was only granted its own appellation in November 1991. The modern-day version is aged in oak barrels for 12 months before release, and is made from late-harvested grapes. All five of Jura’s key grape varieties are used in the production of Macvin i.e. Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Pinot Noir and Trousseau. Most Macvin is white, although some reds are made, using Trousseau and Poulsard.

The eau-de-vie used to stop the fermentation mid-process (a method known as mutage) must be made from grape Marc produced in Jura, and must have spent at least 18 months in oak barrels. The appellation laws also stipulate that the eau-de-vie used must be produced by the same winery as the sweet base wine to which it is added.

The Winery: (See notes above)

CV Members Rating TBA

View full evaluation here: 213 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2011 Domain Rolet,Vin Jaune Arbois

Best Buy: 2015 Domain Rolet,Poulsard, Arbois

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Tasting No. 212 – July 29, 2019 – Spain – Not Only Tempranillo

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Montsant

Tasting Overview  

Spain produced 44,400 hl. of wine in 2018 and was the third in volume after Italy and France. However, it is first in terms of surface planted with grapevines with a 13 percent of the world planted surface followed by France and Italy. Spainsh wines have been known internationally mostly through wines from Rioja  and Rivera del Duero (made essentially with the Tempranillo variety), the sparkling Cava from Catalonia and the Jerez from the Cadiz  and Jerez de la Frontera Region in Andalucia.

Some records estimate that there are over 600 grape varieties planted throughout Spain but 80% of the country’s wine production is focused on only 20 grape varieties. The most widely planted is the white wine grape Airén, prized for its hardiness and resistance to drought. The red wine grape Tempranillo is the second most planted variety, surpassing Garnacha in 2004. It is known throughout Spain under a variety of synonyms that may appear on Spanish wine labels-including Cencibel, Tinto Fino and Ull de Llebre. Both Tempranillo and Garnacha are used to make the full-bodied red wines associated with the Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Penedès with Garnacha being the main grape of the Priorat region. In the Levante region, Monastrell and Bobal have significant plantings, being used for both dark red wines and dry rosé.

In the northwest, the white wine varieties of Albariño and Verdejo are popular plantings in the Rías Baixas and Rueda respectively. In the Cava producing regions of Catalonia and elsewhere in Spain, the principal grapes of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello are used for sparkling wine production as well as still white wines. In the southern Sherry (Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera) and Malaga producing regions of Andalucia, the principal grapes are Palomino and Pedro Ximénez. As the Spanish wine industry modernized, there has been a larger presence of international grape varieties appearing in both blends and varietal forms-most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. Other Spanish grape varieties that have significant plantings  include Cariñena, Godello, Graciano, Mencia, Loureira, and Treixadura.

The  main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from four regions of Spain made from varieties different from Tempranillo.  The presenters have selected wines from Bierzo (based on the Mencía variety), Jumilla (based on Monastrel blended with Granache and Syrah), Priorat and Montsant (both blends of several varieties produced in these two wine regions in Cataluña).

Type of Tasting: Open

Wines presenters: Orlando Mason and Alfonso Sanchez

These are the wines:

  1. 2017 Bodegas Raul Perez,  Ultreia, St. Jacques, Mencía, Bierzo
  2. 2015 Casa Castillo, Las Gravas, Jumilla
  3. 2011  La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Les Notes Iugiter, Priorat
  4. 2005 Baronia del Montsant, Clos Englora AV 14

This is the menu:

  1. Mushroom risotto
  2. Mushrooms and meat tortellini  in aurora sauce
  3. Cesar salad
  4. Grilled lamb with potatoes and vegetables
  5. Desert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Marcello Avrebug, Clara Estrada, Jorge García-García, Orlando Mason, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Cristian Santelices, Ricardo Santiago, German Zincke.

Guests: Marilda Averbug, José Brakarz

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources)

2017 Bodegas Raul Perez,  Ultreia, St. Jacques, Mencía, Bierzo

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Floral, spicy aromas with hints of underbrush. Juicy, well-structured red fruit with great vibrancy and length on the palate. A long finish is marked by hints of herbs, coffee bean, and tomato leaf.

Decanter: A field blend of Mencia, Alicante Bouschet, Pan y Carne and some white varieties, fermented with natural yeast in old oak tanks using 100% stems and no temperature control. It undergoes malo in tank and then spends one year in old barrels. There’s no remontage or pigeage, and he works without sulphites. This has bright, fresh blueberry and cranberry fruit with a rasp of tannin and a savoury, saline sign-off. Drinking Window 2020 – 2024.

RP: The clean, floral and 2017 Ultreia Saint Jacques comes mostly from old vineyards from different soils in Valtuille and Villadecanes. Fermented in stainless steel and oak vats with part of full clusters and matured in used barriques for one year. It’s produced in a fresh and very drinkable way. This is one of the best values from Bierzo and Spain, and a great introduction to Bierzo. It’s a more serious wine than what the wine was when it was first produced, fresh and elegant. It’s very reliable and a great value.

Mencía: Wine.com.Calling the far western appellations of the Iberian Peninsula home, Mencia was once only deemed capable of producing simple and light red wines. But post-phylloxera growers only planted this variety on low, fertile plains, which produced high yields and uncomplicated finished wines. The recent rediscovery of the ancient, abandoned vines planted on rugged hillsides of deep schist has unveiled the potential of Mencia and added discredit to its old reputation. Primarily found in the Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras regions of Spain and in the Dão of Portugal (where it is called Jaen), Mencia is an early ripening, low acid grape that can produce wines of great concentration, complexity and ageability.

In the Glass: The best Mencia possess characters such as raspberry, red currant, boysenberry, pomegranate, black licorice, spice cake, black pepper, Asian spice and crushed gravel. Some styles remain light and fruit dominant while the more serious versions, aged in new oak, will be more complex and concentrated.

Food Pairings:Excellent with all manner of meat dishes: Steak au Poivre, corned beef, charcuterie, game, carne asada, etc, Mencia will also work with many vegetarian dishes such as grilled portabello, mushroom risotto, wild rice pilaf and smoked tofu.

Sommelier Secret: Never had Mencia? Well if you like Pinot Noir and other aromatic reds (like Gamay), definitely investigate Mencia. Many affordable options abound as well as higher-end, more complex versions. Often the latter contain other varieties for adding depth and complexity, or come from the extremely old vines.

The Winery:  One of the few northwestern Spanish regions with a focus on a red variety, Bierzo, part of Castilla y León, is home to the flowery and fruity Mencia grape. Mencia produces balanced and bright red wines full of strawberry, raspberry, pomegranate, baking spice, pepper and black licorice. The well-drained soils of Bierzo are slate and granite. Raul Perez was born into a winemaking family, Bodegas Castro Ventosa, the largest owner of Mencia plantings in Bierzo. Raul grew up developing his ideals and worked at the family winery until 2003. His reluctance to compromise has made him both controversial and popular. Bodegas Raul Perez produces extra limited, handcrafted, artisinal wines from varieties such as Albarino, Mencia, Bastardo and Godello from northwestern Spain.

Villegas is one of the vineyards most appreciated by Raúl Pérez. It is located in Valtuille de Abajo,, cradle of the winery in El Bierzo. It has a nascent orientation to the south and peculiar soils for the area. If El Bierzo has an abundance of clay soils, in Villegas we find a sandy soil. The vineyard is around 600 meters high, and dates back 130 years. The largest profusion of grapes is of the mencía variety, although we also find vineyards of garnacha tintorera and bastardo.

Read more at: https://www.raulperez.com/en/

2015 Casa Castillo, Las Gravas, Jumilla

The Wine: Winemaker Notes. Not surprising Las Gravas comes from a profoundly rocky, single vineyard of the same name. You’d also be hard pressed to call it soil since before you can get to anything resembling dirt you have to go through a foot of stones. While the other cuvées from the estate show the unique expression of site and variety, Las Gravas is a broader lesson in terroir and the varieties that thrive here. Las Gravas is harvested by hand and fermented in underground stone tanks with manual pigeage. Once primary fermentation is complete the wine is aged in 500 liter French oak demi-muids for 18 months. In most vintages only 20% of the barrels are new.

Robert Parker’s Wine AdvocateThe 2015 Las Gravas is a classic Mediterranean blend of Monastrell with 15% each Garnacha and Syrah, with 15% alcohol after fermenting with part of full clusters and indigenous grapes and aging in used oak barrels for 19 months. 2015 is the last vintage that Las Gravas has some Syrah, as it adds some sweet fruit he wants to avoid. However, it shows fresh within the balsamic profile, with plenty of rosemary and thyme notes combined with floral undertones and the character of the esparto grass and tree bark that are textbook descriptors of the variety.

The Monastrel grape is found in abundance in Central Spain and Southern France (where it’s known as Mourvèdre).  Thought to have originated in Spain, it is now grown extensively throughout the Iberian Peninsula, southern France, California and South Australia. Spanish Monastrell wines tend to be rich, dark affairs, frequently showing flavors of blackberry and black cherry. Depending on the blend these wines are reminiscent of those of Laguedoc and Southern Rhone.

Monastrel’s meaty, herby aromas are very distinctive, as are its strong tannins. These qualities make it a potent ingredient for blending, most often with vibrant, rich Grenache and structured, spicy Syrah. Other classic southern French varieties such as Carignan and Cinsaut are also frequent blending partners for Mourvedre, more because of tradition and convenience (they grow in similar places and ripen almost simultaneously) than flavor or aroma. Single-variety Mourvedre or Monastrell wines are not particularly common, but as the curiosity of the average wine consumer increases, so more and more producers are experimenting with making wines from 100 percent Mourvedre. In France, Mourvedre is a key variety in both Provence and the southern Rhone Valley, where it is a regular compenent in Cotes du Rhone and Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends.

The Winery: Wine.com Casa Castillo in the region of Jumilla is a property that has been producing wine since 1874. This tradition continued with a winery built by a French company in 1910 when phylloxera forced them out of their vineyards in France. Jumilla is one of the few places in Spain that has successfully resisted the infestation of phylloxera, hence making it an ideal place for this new winery. Like many Rhone wine merchants, they were interested in Monastrell (Mourvedre) based wine.

The Roch family acquired the property in 1941. Julia Roch and her grandson, José Maria Vicente, have been recovering the artesanal origins of this estate, making significant strides in the integrity and quality of wine making.

2005 Baronia del Montsant Clos Englora AV 14 – Montsant

The Wine: The Clos Englora’s name comes from about one of the emblematic tops of the Montsant’s range, which tops highs more than 1000 mts above sea level. The logotype is an abstract and personal representation of the mentioned top. The AV14 nomenclature means that the grapes we have used come from “aged vineyards”, and the number 14, is approximately the time that wine remains in barrels. The wine is blend of Red Grenache (37%), Carignan (21%), Merlot (14%), Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), Syrah (8%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Monastrell (2%) and Tempranillo (2%).

RP: Wine Advocate-Montsant, Spain- “It offers up a perfume of crushed stone, smoke, espresso, Asian spices, black cherry, and blackberry leading to a rich, opulent, layered wine with tons of fruit, plenty of spice.

The Winery: In Montsant area we principally elaborate red wine, and among the different varieties we can point up Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), Samsó (Cariñena) and purple Garnacha. We have to mention the velvety, complex and meaty characteristics of these wines, which predispose them to a long maturing in wood. Among the varieties used for the elaboration of white vines, we can point out the white Garnacha which produces aromatic and silky wines. There are few hectares of vineyards under this mark of origin. The average is about 2,500 stocks of vine per hectare and they produce an average of 2 kg. per stock.

The characteristic orography of the region, with sharp slopes, makes difficult and hard the work of the farmers, but the fruits that grow have a unique personality (see technical notes below) . The soils of the region of Priorat come from a first extract of sediments formed during the Palaeozoic. Later, during the Mesozoic, this first disposition was followed by a series of violent granite eruptions, which became the base of the present shape of the region. The granite transformed the Palaeozoic sediments into the typical “licorelles” (zones of slaty aspect, of dark colour) and “codols” (rolling stones).

There is a Mediterranean weather that is slightly changed by the common northeastern winds. The temperature is moderate, with an annual average of 16º C. In the cold season, frosts are strange and there is an average of three days of snow per year. The rainy days are of 500 mm per year, and the daily sunshine average is of 7.3 hours.

Read more about  here: http://www.baronia-m.com/lliure/null/1?lang=en

2011  La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Les Notes Iugiter, Priorat

The Wine: Indicative blend: Garnatxa negra, Samsó (Carignan) and Cabernet Sauvignon. intense, dark plum and rich, jammy fruit aromas combined with notes of cassis and tobacco. rich and smooth with juicy fruit on the palate, plenty of mineral seasoning and rounded with silky tannins.  The wine is aged for 14 months in Allier French oak barrels and followed by another 18 months of rest in the bottle.  Drink now-2025.

WE: Despite showing some heat and raisiny character up front, this compact Priorat smells schisty and Port-like in the best way. A full-bodied, wall-to-wall palate manages to stay smooth, while this tastes not only of ripe blackberry and dark plum, but also of Priorat’s minerally soils. A silky feel cuddles complex flavors of dark fruits and hot stones on a fine finish.

The Winery:  Read about this winery at: http://www.vinslaconreria.com/index.php/10-english/39-home

 CV Members Rating

View full evaluation here: 212 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2017 Bodegas Raul Perez,  Ultreia, St. Jacques, Mencía, Bierzo

Best Buy: 2017 Bodegas Raul Perez,  Ultreia, St. Jacques, Mencía, Bierzo

Technical Notes 

Summary notes about the regions included in this tasting

Maps Author: Té y kriptonita – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6641680

 Bierzo

The Bierzo is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) for wines located in the northwest of the province of León (Castile and León, Spain) and covers about 3,000 km². It borders on the provinces of Ourense, Lugo and Asturias in the north and in the south on areas of La Montaña, la Cabrera and La Meseta, in Léon.  The first written reference to the Bierzo region, whose name derives from the pre-Roman city of Bergidum, is from Pliny the Elder. The Romans developed agriculture, introduced new crops including Vitis vinifera vines, and new technology such as the Roman plough. However, the greatest expansion of viticulture was related to the growth of the monasteries, especially the Cistercian order, during the Middle Ages. After centuries of production and after having achieved a good reputation in the markets of Galicia and Asturias, the Bierzo vineyards suffered a terrible blow in the 19th century when the phylloxera plague practically wiped them out. There was a severe economic crisis which forced many people to emigrate. Production was slowly re-established thanks to the technique of grafting onto new world root stocks and wine production gradually recovered to assume the significant economic role it had played in the past. In 1989 the Bierzo Denominación de Origen was officially recognized.

TBierzohe wines produced under the Bierzo DO must be made only with the varieties that are authorized by the Consejo Regulador (Regulatory Council).

  • Red grapes: Mencia, Alicante Bouschet (Garnacha Tintorera), (experimental: Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
  • White grapes: Doña Blanca, Godello, Palomino, (experimental: Malvasía, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer)

The Bierzo is a land of many things. It is a place of passage of the Camino de Santiago, which makes its last stop through these lands before crossing to Galicia. It is a place of mining, a trade that comes from ancient, as the incredible Roman mines of the Marrows, which are World Heritage Sites. It’s a land of chestnuts, maybe the best in Spain. And it’s a land of wine. To say wine for these lioness lands is to say Mencía. A grape considered until very recently as inferior. Along with the Tempranillo, Grenache, Bobal and Monastrell it is one of the five majority varieties of the native Spanish red grape.

As with Grenache or Monastrell,the Mencía grape has long been relegated. But fortunately for our palates, the time has come to rediscover it. And as is often the matter, the problem was not with the grape, but of how to treat it.

The Romans introduced the cultivation of vines in this area. Later, during the Middle Ages, Cistercian monks spread their cultivation throughout much of the region. But beyond growing the grapes in the area, Bierzo’s wines were not valued. They were held for rough table wines.

The best grapes grow on the slopes of the Bercian sun. In that Appellation of Origin, a new generation of young winemakers ignored the Mencías growing vigorously in the fertile Sil Valley and preferred instead those growing in the harsh mountains of the Bercian basin (now known as the wine belt of El Bierzo). As with wine, the strains that grow in the most difficult conditions are the most sought after.The centuries-old hillside vines that were still scattered here and there and the slate soils were the ideal raw materials material of a new generation of modern and quality wines. These were vines plated at relatively high altitude, with little water and low yield that unknown until then, with an extraordinary aging capacity and evolution.

Alvaro Palacios soon joined this generation of new winemakers”. As he had done with the resurgence of Priorat, in Catalonia, he thought that this area had much potential to exploit its wines in a more delicate and professional way. There he installed in 1999 the winery “Descendientes de J. Palacios”, in which you can find wines such as the popular Pétalos del Bierzo, which in 2014 was rated by Robert Parker as the best wine in Spain for its value for money. Another example is the Corullon. Located in a higher price range, it is a wine of power and energy, but a lot of freshness, it is what is given in the mouth.

High quality wines. Usually, the wines of this Mencía produced in the surrounding mountains, which is how it began to be produced in Roman times, are light and fresh. His key is on the ground. Unlike the grapes grown until then in the fertile Bierzo Valley, they grow in poor soils, on slopes located at altitudes of around 800 meters.

Jumilla 

(Taken from wine-searcher.com) 

Jumilla is a wine DO title of Murcia, a small region on the Mediterranean coast of southeastern Spain. The Jumilla viticultural area, which is sandwiched between Yecla in the north and Bullas in the south, is considered to be Murcia’s most important in terms of quantity and quality. It is also the region’s oldest, established in 1966.

Like other wine regions of the area, Jumilla specializes in wines based on the Monastrell grape variety, which accounts for around 80 percent of vines. It is well suited to the harsh conditions here, and the best wines demonstrate a varied flavor profile. This includes lively fruits and earth and mineral notes when young, developing into complex aromas of matured fruit, coffee and oak spices with extended barrel aging.

Since the 1990s, when the region’s potential to produce quality wines came to the fore, Jumilla has attracted a lot of outside attention. Producers from other Spanish regions as well as foreign companies have set up wineries here.

JumillaAs a result, plantings of varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have steadily increased, mainly to add body and character to the Monastrell-based reds. This blending approach has worked wonders for the status of the region’s wines. It is now seen as a benchmark among similar styles produced in this part of the country.

A Jumilla Monastell red wine must include at least 80 percent of the named variety. The same rule applies to Jumilla Monastrell rosé. Jumilla Dulce (sweet wine) may be produced in all three colors.

The landscape of Jumilla is characterized by wide valleys and plains, interrupted by the serrania (mountain ranges) that cross Murcia between the sea and the Meseta Central (central plateau) of Spain. Hot, dry and harsh is the best way to describe the zone. Despite these seemingly adverse conditions, vines have been grown here since Roman times, when the region had quite a reputation for its full-bodied red wines.

The wine industry in Jumilla received a big boost when the phylloxera plague struck neighboring France in the late 19th Century. This resulted in demand for Jumilla wine soaring. Despite escaping the major outbreak, Jumilla was struck down by the pest in 1989. This offered the DO a chance to modernize and refocus on lighter, more elegant wines.

Jumilla’s climate is best described as arid and continental, more in line with the Castilla-La Mancha areas to its west than any significant influences of the Mediterranean  although in the eastern fringes it is more transitional. Summer temperatures of 40°C (104°F) are not uncommon here. This, along with the scant rainfall, makes the region a theoretically harsh grape growing area.

There are two main factors that act as saving graces. Firstly, there is a healthy amount of lime in the soil, which helps in retaining vital moisture, and secondly, the elevated central plateau. Elevations range between 400 and 800 meters (1300ft – 2600ft), providing some respite from the intense heat. Nevertheless, frosts, violent storms and torrential rains still pose real threats to vines.

The Priory’s Región – Priorat

The Priory region (or Priorat) is located in the province of Catalonia in the northeast of Spain and about 150 kilometers southwest of Barcelona.  Its name comes from the original settlement of Carthusian monks in the 12th century in the area.  Since then, grapes have been grown in the region.

The region is almost surrounded by the Montsant Mountains and its topography is characterized by steep and steep slopes and arid and rocky soils where the mechanization of the crop is impossible.  However, the monks’ thirst for wine led them to cultivate the vines on hand-carved terraces in the mountains with great effort and hard work.  To this day the cultivation and harvesting of grapes is manual.  The age of the vineyards and the aridity of the soils result in very low yields of only two-thirds of a tonne per hectare (the average elsewhere is between 2.5 and 3.5 tonnes).  The intense summer heats in the Mediterranean produce wines with high alcoholic content (a potential of up to 18 per cent).  Low yields and mode of production result in intense, high-concentration and relatively expensive wines.

The Phylloxera wiped out many of the region’s vineyards at the end of the 19th century and many growers left the region and its vineyards.  But in the 1970s young wine industrialists led by René Barbier (Clos Mogador and Freixenet) and Alvaro Palacios (Finca Dofi,L’Ermita) attracted by the potential of the region brought French winemaking methods and began the replanting and reconstruction of the old vineyards.  The result has been an almost miraculous resurgence of the region that today is in the major world leagues with its best wines.

The Soils.Poor, stony soils of volcanic originwith a base of quartz and slates.  Slates produce mica residues that reflect the sun and retain heat (high sugar concentration in the grape).  Aridity forces vines to produce deep roots in search of water nutrients and minerals.

Climate.There are an abundance of microclimates that vary with altitude but are determined by the icy winds of the north (mitigated in part by the Montsant mountains) and by the warm winds of the east.  Summers are long, hot and dry(35o C) and very cold winters (-4oC)

The Varieties The traditional varieties were Grenache and Carignan that continue to be the most important (suitable for production of wines type Cotes du Rhone).  New entrepreneurs have planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah to produce blended wines

Today there are more than 50 reputable cellars in the region.  The wines are usually aged in French oak barrels, must have an alcoholic strength of at least 13.5 percent and are strong and concentrated.

Montsant 

(Taken from wine-searcher.com) Montsant is a wine region in Catalonia, northern Spain. The gently undulating area was formerly categorized as a viticultural sub-zone of Tarragona, but local growers felt the high-altitude vineyards here earned the region recognition as a DO in their own right. As a result, the Montsant DO was created in 2001, its name taken from the Montsant massif (‘holy mountain’) that dominates the region’s landscape.

Montsant lies west of Tarragona city and forms a ‘C’ shape that almost completely surrounds the prestigious Priorat region. Vines were first introduced to the area by the Romans thousands of years ago, and Catholic monks continued the viticultural tradition during the Middle Ages. By the 19th Century, wines from Montsant were receiving praise at universal exhibitions.

Montsant

Montsant’s most prized vineyards are located in terraces on steeply sloping sites, often interspersed with pine, almond and olive trees (the region is also known for its excellent olive oils). Here, the vines benefit from intense Mediterranean sunshine during the day and relatively cool temperatures at night. This high diurnal temperature variation assists in the development of complex aromas in the grapes, while preserving vital acidity. The soil is a local specialty known as ‘llicorella‘, which is high in granite and slate components. Together, these growing conditions result in the region’s wines being concentrated and expressive of the local terroir. The average altitude of the zone is 1180ft (360m) above sea level, rising steadily in the northwest and southeast as it approaches the Montsant and Montsalt mountains respectively.

Montsant has earned a reputation for its high-quality red wines, particularly those based on old Garnacha and Carinena (Carignan) vines. Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), Spain’s darling, and international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah also perform very well here. Most red wines are typically intended for aging and exhibit velvety textures even after a short time in oak. The old vines offer particularly complex examples.

A small quantity of white wine (based on Chardonnay, Macabeo and Garnacha Blanca) is produced, along with rosados (rosé) wines and dessert wines, for which the region was once famous. These Vi Ranci (old wines) are made in an oxidative style and are then fortified. Some mistelas (mistelle), made from grape juice and added alcohol, are also produced. Kosher wines from the area can also be found.

Praise for Montsant’s high-quality wines is getting louder as the international market realizes the region’s potential.

 

 

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Tasting No. 211 – June 24, 2019-Rhone Wines

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Tasting Overview  

The  main objective of this tasting is to assess and compare wines from three different regions of the Rhone Valley.

The Rhone region  (see map) is located in the southeast of France on the river of the same name that runs from north to south from the Swiss Alps to Marseille (500 miles) and is mainly dedicated to the production of red wines (95%).  These are characterized by a higher alcohol content (14-15%) than in the rest of France (13-13.5%).  It is divided into four sub-regions, the two most important are the southern one with  the largest volume of production, and the northern one that produces the most prestigious wines of the region and that compete with those of Bordeaux and Burgundy. There are wine production records in the region since 71AD but its boom came when Pope Clement V moved the pontifical headquarters to Avignon in 1309.  About 75 percent of the wines for the papal court were from Rhone. Chateauneuf du Pape comes from there), the rest were from Burgundy.

The north Rhone region is home to the well-known appellations of Crozens–Hermitage and Hermitage which, being on the right side of the river, are favored by  the setting sun.  This region is the land of the Syrah grape, which is the only red grape allowed in wines, and Viognier for whites along with the Marsanne and Roussanne in the appellations of Condrieu and Chateau Grillet.  Whites are opulent and full-bodied. Vineyards are mainly family properties in steep slopes of the river and more than half of the wine is bottled by “negotiants” or traders (Chapoutier, Delas, Guigal,etc.). Northern reds are famous for their ability to age and improve over time (a good Hermitage is only optimal for drinking after 8 or up to 10 years of bottling).  Whites are at their point between 18 months and four years.

The southern Rhone region is very different in its topography (flat) and its wines, most are mixtures of various grapes and are lighter, because of the Grenache grape, that the northern ones dominated by the Syrah.  Even though the Syrah is booming, and is used in the blends to extend the life of the wine, Grenache is the most cultivated and is combined mostly with Carignan, Cinsault (Hermitage) and Mouverdre.. Reds tend to be fruity, with light species and herbs and tannins while northern reds are more chocolatey with flavors of black fruits, mocha and tobacco and stronger tannins characteristic of the Syrah grape. Cooperatives make about 70 percent of the wine, but there are appellations such as Chateauneuf du Pape, Cotes du Rhone and Cotes du Rhone Villages within which 20 Villages (Villages) can add their name to the wine label (i.e. Giocondas, Vacqueiras, etc.). Rules here limit the yield of the vineyard to no more than 42 hl/ha (usually 50 or more in other regions) and require a minimum of 12.5 percent alcohol. No rosé production is allowed in the appellations of Chateauneuf but this occurs in the other Appellations in the region in important quantities and of good quality (only rosé is allowed in AC Tavel). Southern reds can last up to 25 years but do not improve over time after about 6 years and whites should be drunk young (maximum two years).

Climate: In the north it is continental with very cold winters and very warm summers suitable for robust grapes.  In the south it is Mediterranean suitable for fruit trees and vineyards. Common risks are rains during flowering in the north, frost and cold winds (mistral) in the south, and excessive rains in the fall that favor fungi.  Any one of those phenomena can ruin the crops.

Soils.  The north soils are granite residuals from the Massif Central of volcanic origin with excellent drainage, micas, flint and limestone residues.  In the south they are clay with gravel and limestone rock residue.

Type of Tasting: Blind

Wines presenters: Alberto Gómez, Jaime Jaramillo, Jairo Sánchez

These are the wines: TBA

  1. 2015 Nobles Rives, Cave de Tain, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc
  2. 2015 Vieilles Vignes, Domaine La Milliere, Chateaneuf Du Pape
  3. 2014 Le Pas de L’Aigle, Pierre Amadieu, Gigondas
  4. 2015 Les Hauts Lieux, Maison de Nuziere, Cote Rotie

This is the menu:

  • Gazpacho
  • Cheese plate
  • Veal ravioli
  • Beef Bourguignon
  • Dessert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Marcello Averbug, Jorge Claro, Clara Estrada, Jorge García, Alberto Gómez, Jaime Jaramillo, Agilson Perazza, Claudia Perazza, Jorge Requena, Jairo Sanchez, Cristian Santelices,  Pedro Turina, German Zincke

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources) .

2015 Nobles Rives, Cave de Tain, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc

The Wine: Elegant and racy, with citrus spiked acidity nicely balanced by ripe pear, tropical apple and a hint of orange. Another terrific value from this acclaimed cooperative. Crozes-Hermitage white wines, made from Marsanne and Roussanne, are typically dry and medium-bodied, with rich flavors of white fruits and almonds.

GRAPES – Blend Marsanne and Roussan; STYLE – Elegant; TASTE — Citrus, Pear; BODY — Medium-bodied

The Winery: Shaped by our winegrowers, with its little dry stone walls, the imposing hill exposes its steep, south-facing terraces, sheltered from the northerly winds. The plain of Valence stops at its foot in the south, and in the west the Doux valley allows for a dip in the Ardeche plateau, prolonging the late afternoon sun exposure.  The vine culture on the Hermitage dates back over 2000 years and contributes to the legend. On these terraces, the work is done entirely by hand, the small walls stabilize the soil and the stakes (traditional wooden pegs) guide the vine. Cave de Tain, continues to embrace the traditions of tying the vines with straw, with that fine action of quickly and precisely tying “straw knots”: it takes years to master it!

Read more at: https://www.cavedetain.com/en/

2015 Vieilles Vignes, Domaine La Milliere, Chateaneuf Du Pape

The Wine: As described by winemaker: Stamp of fruity black cherry and floral peony aromas, behind those are spicy cacao and Prevencal heath scents. Powerful fleshy mouth-filling palate with dominant generous ripe small black fruit, the freshness of licorice and sweet spice. A long, expressive final, finishing with well-balanced spices.

Wine Advocate: “The 2015 Chateauneuf de Pape Vieilles Ville is a meaty, peppery, olive and dark fruit-driven effort that has a medium to full-bodied richness and a classic, old-school vibe.”

Vivino: Bold, a bit tannic, dry and not so acidic.

GRAPES — Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvedre; STYLE — Intense; TASTE Spice, Raspberry; BODY Full-bodied

The Winery:  Our vines delve deep into stony ground heated by the hot Provence sun and swept by the powerful Mistral wind. The priority is given to manual over mechanical; this includes a manual harvest, thinning, grassing and tilling etc. Our vineyards spread over 26 hectares: 14 ha are planted in the named area of “Cabrières” in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation area, 7 ha is shared between the production of the grapes for the Côtes du Rhône Villages and  Côtes du Rhône; while 5 ha is the source of theVin de Pays de Vaucluse. The oldest vines were planted between 1891 and 1920.   Cotes du Rhone complete their slow maturing in vats to retain their fresh, fruity characteristics. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cru weds the old turns to peaceably fill out over 12 to 15 months

Read more at: http://www.la-milliere.com/en/

2014 Le Pas de L’Aigle, Pierre Amadieu, Gigondas

The Wine: As described by the winemaker: Deep dark color, intense nose and jammy fruit complex (prunes, figs) announce a silky mouth where delicate woven red fruit aromas with  spice and strength of jammy black fruit, bloom in a  superbly spicy and peppery final, impressive in length.

Vinous: “Deep red. Intensely perfumed raspberry, cherry and spicecake scents are complemented by hints of pungent flowers and chalky minerals…Flavors show impressive energy, and a spine of minerality adds definition and vibrant lift. Finishes very long…”

Vivino: Bold, more tannic than smooth, dry, somewhat acidic. Big fruit initially, medium soft tannins and spicy finish. GRAPES —  Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvedre; STYLE -Intense; TASTE — Spice, Black Fruit; BODY — Full-bodied

The Winery: The vineyard is 45 years old on average guarantying a very high level quality. The old vines of the domain correspond to the first plantations of the founder. Grapes are harvested by hand for a perfect sorting. From wine making up to the bottling the business is constantly in research of the perfect balance between the wine grower’s know-how and terroirs’ expression. The founder is a pioneer in several domains selecting wines, then buying in the 1950s, two properties, historically linked: Romane and La Machotte, becoming the largest estate of Gigondas with 137 ha of vines.

The expression of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault (for rosé) and Clairette (for white wine) on these terroirs among the highest of the appellation, is very personalized: wines are powerfully spiced. A smaller part of the vineyard (7 hectares) is in contrast in the Southwestern part of Gigondas. It is mainly planted with Mourvèdre, which grapes bring sunny and wild notes to the cuvée as well as the sharpness of sandier soils.

Read more at: http://www.pierre-amadieu.com/nos-actualites/en/

2015 Les Hauts Lieux, Maison de Nuziere, Cote Rotie 

The Wine: Wine Spectator: “Solidly built, with lots of savory and bay leaf notes, followed by lightly steeped raspberry, red currant and fig fruit flavors. Light leather, sanguine and iron details flash through the finish, adding length and range.”

Vivino: Bold, tannic, dry and acidic.

VARIETAL Shiraz; STYLE  Fresh; TASTE  Black Fruit, Cassis, Pepper; BODY  Full-bodied

The Winery: Established in Condrieu since 1876, Maison Denuziere now owns vineyards in the Cornas and Condrieu apellations. This new rooting in the vineyard, supplemented by grape contracts, now allows it to vinify and raises in its cellars a fine selection of wine from the norther Rhone Valley. The know-how and expertise of the house are also found in the supply work it operates in the greater Rhone Valley. Rich with a history more than a century old, the values of Maison Denuziere are attached to the prestigious terroirs of the regions. Freshness, flesh and purity of the fruit, the combination of a precise contemporary vinification and a pampered grape characterize the cuvées.

CV Members Rating 

View full evaluation here: 211 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2014 Le Pas de L’Aigle, Pierre Amadieu, Gigondas 

Best Buy: 2014 Le Pas de L’Aigle, Pierre Amadieu, Gigondas 

Technical Notes 

Jairo Sanchez compiled a detailed note (including several maps) about the Rhone Region that you can read here: Rhone valley 211

 

 

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Tasting No. 210 – May 20, 2019 – Washington State Wines

Club del Vino

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Tasting Overview  

The  main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from Washington State and assess differences among three main red varietals.

Type of Tasting: Blind

Wines presenters: Jorge Claro, Cristian Santelices

These are the wines:

  1. 2017 Chateau Ste Michelle. Riesling Dry, Columbia Valley
  2. 2013 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hill
  3. 2015 Canvasback, Cabernet Sauvignon,  Red Mountain
  4. 2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Rhone’s Michel Gassier, The Pundit Syrah. Columbia Valley

This is the menu:

  1. Salmon appetizer
  2. Leeks and potatoes soup
  3. Crab ravioli in white sauce
  4. Filet Mignon with vegetables sauteed
  5. Dessert/Coffee

Participants: Mario Aguilar, Marcello Averbug, Ruth Connolly, Clara Estrada, Jaime Estupiñán, Alberto Gómez, Jaime Jaramillo, Orlando Mason, Italo Mirkow, Agilson Perazza, Claudia Perazza, John Redwood, Lucía Redwood, Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez, Cristian Santelices, Ricardo Santiago, German Zincke

Information on the Wines

(The information below has been compiled from various internet sources) .

2017 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Riesling Dry, Columbia Valley

The Wine: WE: Flower, lime leaf, slate, peach and citrus aromas are out front. Sleek, off-dry, leaning sweeter fruit flavors follow. There’s a sense of balance that heightens the appeal. It’s a whole lot of wine for the money.

“A terrific wine for its price, this Riesling’s best feature is its freshness; it’s a high-toned, leesy white leading with scents of apple blossoms and a hint of lime. The flavors are crisp and round, supple and generous, with the body to pair with seafood…”

A dry, refreshing style of Riesling with beautiful fruit flavors, crisp acidity and an elegant finish. It offers inviting sweet citrus aromas and flavors. This is an incredibly versatile food wine.

The Winery: Founded in 1934, Chateau Ste. Michelle is the oldest winery in Washington with some of the most mature vineyards in the Columbia Valley. The winery combines Old World winemaking with New World innovation and is best known for its award-winning Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Chateau Ste. Michelle receives some of the highest accolades in the industry, including “American Winery of the Year” by Wine Enthusiast for 2004 and “2005 Winery of the Year” by Restaurant Wine. In addition, the winery’s Eroica Riesling, crafted from a partnership with German winemaker Ernst Loosen, has been named to Wine Spectator‘s prestigious “Top 100” wines list for five consecutive years.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is one of the few premium wineries in the world with two state-of-the-art wineries, one devoted to whites and another to reds. This dedicated approach to winemaking allows winemaker Bob Bertheau to build winemaking programs to the unique specifications of red and white wines. While all of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s vineyards are located on the east side of the Cascade Mountains where the climate is dry and sunny, Bob Bertheau makes the award winning white wines in Woodinville, 15 miles northeast of Seattle. The winery’s expansive, 87-acre estate hosts more than 250,000 visitors annually for tours, tastings, dinners and outdoor summer concerts.

Read more at: https://www.ste-michelle.com/

 2013 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hill

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: The Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot is an elegant expression of Washington Merlot. It offers dark cherry fruit character and dusty tannins. This is a perfect match with Italian food and dishes with lamb, beef and fow

(RP) An impressive wine is the 2013 Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate. There’s 5% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend and it spent 16 months in 59% new French and American oak. Possessing first-rate aromatics of plums, currants, licorice and damp earth, this medium to full-bodied, supple, charming Merlot has outstanding purity and surprising mid-palate density. It’s a sexy wine to drink over the coming 4-5 years.

The Winery:  (See above)

 2015 Canvasback, Cabernet Sauvignon,  Red Mountain

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Showing the warmth and generosity of the growing season, this wine offers effusive aromas of bing cherry, ripe strawberry and plum. As it evolves, additional aromas of molasses and ginger reveal themselves, along with a savory whiff of sagebrush that echoes Red Mountain’s desert environment. On the palate, the wine has notable presence and depth. The entry is creamy and fine-grained, and a voluminous mid-palate displays gorgeous flavors of black plum, marion berry and grenadine, with notes of nutmeg and hazelnut adding complexity to the juicy fruit. Varietal Content: 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc Cooperage: 20 months in barrel 98% French oak, 2% American 42% new, 22% second, 36% neutral.

“While 2015 will go in the books as the earliest Washington grape harvest on record, it will also be remembered for its remarkable quality. A warm spring led to a very early budbreak, followed by ideal weather during bloom. With consistently hot summer weather, we tailored our canopy management to preserve shade on the fruit, while carefully timing our irrigation to protect the vines. A cooldown in the run-up to harvest slowed ripening, and allowed us to pick pristine grapes at a leisurely pace. With lovely balance and freshness, these grapes ultimately yielded wines of power and grace”

RP: The 2015 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is a success this year, revealing aromas of ripe plums, cassis, pencil shavings and espresso roast. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, rich and generous, with an ample core of fruit, juicy acids and a flavorful finish.

The Winery: (From Wine.com) To create wines that are as complex as they are captivating, Canvasback is following the model established decades ago by Duckhorn Vineyards, and will ultimately combine grapes from top growers with fruit from Canvasback’s own estate vineyard. The Canvasback team has already established great relationships with the growers who farm some of the appellation’s most esteemed vineyards, including Klipsun, La Coye, Shaw and Quintessence. In 2013, Canvasback put down roots on Red Mountain when it acquired a 20-acre unplanted vineyard site. Located near the top of the mountain, above the frost zone at an elevation of approximately 1,100 to 1,300 feet, the site was widely recognized as the most coveted uncultivated site of the mountain. Guided by Washington winegrowing legend and Canvasback vineyard manager Dick Boushey, and founding winemaker Brian Rudin, Canvasback began planting its Red Mountain vineyard predominantly to Cabernet Sauvignon in 2014.In both the vineyard and winery, Brian embraces the challenge of making a richly compelling wine that shows the complexity and structure of great Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. “Red Mountain is one of the best places on earth to grow Cabernet,” says Brian. “The desert environment, with its long days, cold nights and mineral-rich soils produce epic Cabernet Sauvignons.”

Read more at: https://www.canvasbackwine.com/

 2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Rhone’s Michel Gassier, The Pundit Syrah. Columbia Valley

The Wine: The color is deep ruby with garnet highlights. Raspberry jam and citrus with soy and earthy undertone aromas are complemented by a brambly, subtle meaty character. A smooth mouthfeel glides into a long silky finish with flavors of juicy blueberry, hints of tobacco and subtle gamey undertones.

WE: Pinches of Grenache (4%), Mourvèdre (4%) and Viognier (2%) round out this wine, providing lovely accents. The aromas show notes of flower, orange peel, raspberry candy, dried herb and cherry. The palate is full bodied and rich, with the tannins bringing some grip. Raspberry notes linger on the finish.Blend: 90% Syrah, 4% Grenache, 4% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier.

By the looks of it, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates can help do for Syrah what it has done with Riesling. Here’s another example of Chateau Ste. Michelle head winemaker Bob Bertheau collaborating with European experts to create a gateway example of a variety that the majority of American consumers aren’t overly familiar with, offer it at an affordable price and produce it on a large scale. In the case of The Pundit, Bertheau teams up with Rhône native Michel Gassier and Phillipe Cambie, who describes himself as “a man of the Mediterranean”. The influence of new French oak (23%) over 13 months shows with the bittersweet chocolate and toast aromas that include blueberry cobbler and black cherry. There’s a payday on the palate from each of those notes as the dark fruit spills across with pleasing weight. A nice tug of tannin of comes across as a nibble of blackcurrant skin with the juice to match, followed by the underlying gaminess that often comes with Syrah

The Winery: (See above)

CV Members Rating

View full evaluation here: 210 Summary of Tasting Scores

Best Rated Wine: 2015 Canvasback, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain

Best Buy: 2017 Chateau Ste Michelle. Riesling Dry, Columbia Valley

Technical Notes 

(Jorge Claro and Cristian Santelices compiled these technical notes. They provide additional detailed information about wine in Washington State, such as history, varieties, climate maps, soils, etc.)

View notes here: Technical notes Washington State

 

 

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