Montenegro and Morocco Wines – Tasting #294 October 27, 2026

Posted on October 20, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Club del Vino, Washington DC

 Wines from Montenegro and Morocco  Tasting No 294 – October 27, 2026

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Plantaže 13. Jul Winery, Montenegro

 

  1. Tasting Overview

This tasting explores the wines available for exportation from Montenegro’s Lake Skadar/Podgorica wine country and Morocco’s Atlantic-influenced vineyards.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters: Ginger Smart, Ruth Connolly, Michelle Fryer

Participants: TBA

These are the wines:

  1. Raspopovic Winery, ‘Vranac Barrique’, Podgorica, Montenegro, 2018.
  2. Domaine des Ouled Thaleb Imperiale, Zenata, Morocco, 2022
  3. Domaine des Ouled Thaleb, ‘Syrocco’ Syrah, Zenata, Morocco, 2023
  4. Plantaze, ‘Pro Corde’ Vranac Reserve, Podgorica, Montenegro, 2021

 The Menu

  • Prosciutto with sheep cheese and fig
  • Pasta with tomato-based meat ragu
  • Lamb chops with brown sauce and potatoes
  • Dessert, coffee and tea

 

  1. Montenegro

A Long, Interrupted History

The vine has been grown on Montenegro’s coast and around Lake Skadar since antiquity. Illyrians, Greeks and Romans all made wine here, and a 4th-century BC necropolis at Budva shows wine was already a valued trade good. Ottoman rule destroyed many vineyards. Under Prince (later King) Nikola I (1860–1918) winemaking was partly restored, and the wines of Crmnica, on the shore of Lake Skadar, won prizes in London (1907) and Belgrade (1928). Phylloxera then devastated the vineyards. Before it struck, the grape Kratošija made up about 90% of plantings; but replanting favored its offspring–Vranac.

Plantaže and the Modern Industry

In 1959 Montenegro had only about 1,010 ha of vines. The turning point was the founding of the state company Plantaže in 1963, which added 226 ha of vines, and produced 3,200 hectoliters of wine and 170 hectoliters of grape brandy. Over the next two decades, Plantaže expanded slowly to 377 ha; however, it was not until the implementation of the Ćemovsko Polje project, Europe’s largest viticultural project at the time, that the company entered its most significant development phase.  Between 1977-1982, Plantaže cleared the stony, sunbaked Ćemovsko Polje plain south of Podgorica and planted a single block of over 2000 ha of grape vines–establishing a reliable base for Vranac (which comprises about 70% of the vineyards) and laying the foundation for the company’s future growth.  Today,  with over 11 million vines, harvests of about 18 million kg of grapes, sales of roughly 14 million bottles a year, and exports to more than 40 countries, Plantaže accounts for about 80% of Montenegrin wine production and is one of the largest producers of grapes, wine, and grape brandy in Europe.

Plantaže has two wine cellars with a total capacity of 33 million liters.  The “Old (original) Cellar” has a capacity of 5 million liters and serves as the starting point for the production of premium wines.  Šipčanik — located in a former military facility, in the heart of the vineyard and at a depth of more than 30 meters, currently holds more than two million liters of wine for aging. Since 2000 a wave of small, private family wineries—Raspopović among them—has added diversity, along with wine tourism around Podgorica, Crmnica, and the coast.

Regions and Scale

By global standards, Montenegro’s wine industry is small (approx. 2,581 ha of vines).  The native variety Vranac, is planted on approximately 51% of total vineyard area and provides a distinctive national identity and an export calling card; Chardonnay and Cardinal follow with 12% and 5%.   A 2017 government decision, aligned with EU rules, defines four wine regions and 15 sub-regions. Nonetheless, unlike Morocco’s formal AOG/AOC system, Montenegro’s system does not establish a comparable detailed appellation framework; regional descriptions are therefore used rather than unverified appellation claims.

The Skadar Lake Basin is not just a wine region; it is the foundation of Montenegro’s wine culture. With nearly 92% of grape producers and 99.54% of total vineyard area in the country concentrated here, it is the primary area for viticulture and winemaking.  The Skadar Lake Basin Region lies in the warmer southern and central parts of the country and stretches into Albania. The climate is Mediterranean (between 12.1 °C – 16.5 °C) near the coast and lake, with mountain influences inland. Warm, sunny growing seasons help Vranac ripen fully, while the relatively flat altitude (up to 100 meters) and local site conditions affect acidity, tannin and aromatic freshness. According to the viticulture registry, grape producers in the Podgorica subregion account for 57% of all registered producers in the country and 95% (2,497 ha) of all vineyards.  Of these, 2,350 ha belong to Plantaze.

Grape Varietals

Vranac (“strong black” / “black stallion”) is Montenegro’s signature red and its most planted grape. DNA work shows it is a cross of Kratošija and Duljenga. The vine is vigorous and productive, with medium-compact clusters of thin-skinned, deeply colored blue-black berries. It ripens late and likes sunny sites and warm, well-drained soils. Its wines are deep ruby to purple, full-bodied, high in alcohol and tannin with fresh acidity, and taste of blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and dried spice, picking up chocolate and coffee notes from oak.

Kratošija – Montenegro’s oldest grape and the dominant variety before phylloxera. It is genetically the same as Croatia’s Tribidrag, Italy’s Primitivo and California’s Zinfandel. Krstač  is the leading native white, giving pale, floral wines with citrus and green-apple notes, and now also used to make sparkling wine. Žižak, Bioka and Čubrica are other rare native varieties. International grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Marselan (grown at Raspopović), Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc.

Relevance to Today’s Wines

The wines in this tasting are both Vranac reds: Raspopovic’s Barrique and Plantaže’s Pro Corde Reserve.  Both wines are dry red wines, 100% Vranac, and originate in the Lake Skadar Valley: Plantaže from Ćemovsko polje (Podgorica sub-region) and Raspopović from the Bjelopavlići valley, about 18 km northwest of Podgorica. The climate is a mix of Mediterranean and continental. The Adriatic and the lake moderate winters, but summers around Podgorica are among the hottest in the Balkans, and soils are largely calcareous, stony and well-drained. These are ideal conditions for the late-ripening Vranac, which accumulates high sugar (and therefore high alcohol) while keeping firm tannins and fresh acidity which give deep-colored, full-bodied wines that take well to oak and bottle ageing.

  1. Morocco

From Antiquity to the Protectorate

Grape growing in Morocco is usually credited to Phoenician traders around 1,000 BC, and vine remains have been found at the Roman city of Volubilis near Meknès. After the arrival of Islam in the 7th century, wine production declined but never fully disappeared. The modern industry is a colonial creation. Under the French protectorate (1912–1956), settlers planted vineyards on a large scale, mainly to supply high-color, high-alcohol blending wine to France. By independence in 1956 Morocco had about 55,000 ha of vines, and in the 1950s output exceeded 3 million hectoliters a year.

Collapse and Revival

Independence removed both the French winemakers and their market. In 1967, France ended Morocco’s duty-free quota of one million hectoliters and exports collapsed.  The state took over the vineyards in the 1970s, and fixed grape prices that ignored quality, which made things worse. Many vineyards were replaced with cereals. The turnaround came in the 1990s, when King Hassan II – a graduate of the University of Bordeaux and friend of several producers there – opened state-owned vineyards to long-term leases. Renewed investment by the French and local families such as the Znibers (Celliers de Meknès, Château Roslane) brought capital and technical expertise, which helped establish quality-focused production and restart the industry.

Regions and Appellations (AOG and AOC)

With its high mountains (Atlas) and maritime influence, Morocco is a great area for growing grapes. The country’s main wine-growing areas extend from the Atlantic-facing plains near Rabat and Casablanca to the inland Meknès–Fès area, the foothills of the Atlas, and eastern districts. Morocco’s appellation system dates from 1977. The country is divided into five main wine regions containing 14 Appellations d’Origine Garantie (AOG), the basic tier that guarantees origin and minimum production standards.  Above the AOGs sit three Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) with stricter rules on terroir, varieties and winemaking.

Industry and Scale

Morocco has about 42,000 ha of vineyards, but most are table grapes; only around 10,000–11,000 ha are wine grapes. Since 2000, the industry is slowly regaining some of its splendor and is back to producing 43 million bottles a year, making Morocco Africa’s second-largest producer after South Africa. The industry is highly concentrated: Celliers de Meknès is reported to make about 85% of the country’s wine, and Thalvin (which runs Domaine des Ouled Thaleb) produces around 8 million bottles. Only about 1.5% is exported; most wine is drunk locally, by tourists and in hotels and restaurants.

Grape Varietals

Red grapes are central to Moroccan wine production and make up more than 75% of output.  Common varieties include Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with Tempranillo also present. These varieties produce styles from fresh, fruit-forward blends to structured, oak-aged reds. The two Moroccan wines in this tasting show the use of international varieties: a Cabernet Sauvignon–Grenache blend and a varietal Syrah.

Rosé is another recognizable Moroccan style. Pale “vin gris” represents approximately 25% of total production and is typically made from red grapes with very brief skin contact, yielding a light pink or salmon hue and delicate fruit. White wines are made in smaller quantities (only 3% of total production) and may include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and other Mediterranean or international varieties.

Relevance to Today’s Wines

Both Moroccan wines come from the AOG Zenata, in the Benslimane area between Casablanca and Rabat. The Atlantic is the decisive influence. Cool ocean winds lower the afternoon and night temperatures, so these reds keep more acidity and freshness than wines from further inland. Rainfall is low (roughly 200–400 mm, mostly in winter), and the dry summers mean little disease pressure, which makes organic farming practical. Soils are mainly sandy clay-marl known locally as tirs, over limestone and gravelly sand; the free-draining gravels have been compared to the Médoc.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1.  Raspopovic Winery, VRANAC Barrique, Podgorica, Montenegro, 2018.

The Producer: Vinarija Raspopović is a small family winery in the village of Martinići, in the Montenegrin basin of Lake Skadar. The property has been the Raspopović family’s country home for more than 200 years, and the winery opened in December 2013. The family grows more than 5,000 vines of Vranac, Kratošija, Marselan and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its philosophy is deliberately traditional and local—local people, local grape varieties and local values. The wines are imported to the U.S. by LAV Imports.

The wine:

  • Year – Vintage: 2018.
  • Composition: 100% Vranac.
  • Viticulture: Estate-grown Vranac from the family vineyard in the Bjelopavlići valley, where calcareous soils and a hot Mediterranean–continental climate ripen this late-maturing grape fully.
  • Fermentation / vinification: Vranac Barrique is a dry red wine, made from 100% Vranac in a traditional style without the use of herbicides.
  • Aging: Matured for more than a year in Slavonian oak barrels (hence “Barrique”).
  • Alcohol by volume: 12.1%.

Tasting notes / winemaker notes: Multi-layered aromas of black fruit, blackcurrant and blackberry. The palate is concentrated with well-integrated oak and an intense, persistent finish.

Pairing:  Pairs with steak, roast lamb, game, duck or goose, spiced goulash, grilled tuna and aged hard cheeses.

              Wine #2.  Domaine des Ouled Thaleb, Imperiale, Zenata, Morocco, 2022

The Producer:  Domaine des Ouled Thaled is 50km northeast of Casablanca in the region of Benslimane, AOG Zeneta. It is Morocco’s oldest winery still in use. The terroir has 2,500 years of winemaking history; Belgian investors planted the estate in 1923, and the first harvest was in 1926–27, so it celebrated its centenary in 2023. The Domaine, run by the company Thalvin, has about 220 ha of vines within a much larger farm. It also buys grapes from more than 20 contracted growers in Meknès, Gharb, Boulaouane and Marrakech. Syrah is its leading red grape. French winemaker Stéphane Mariot has run the cellar since 2010, and the estate has worked with Rhône winemaker Alain Graillot since the early 2000s. The estate produces elegant wines with structure and great freshness. The vines are gobelet trained to protect from the heat. Although the temperatures are high during the day, the Atlantic Ocean provides a cooling breeze and it is much cooler than in Meknes (which is further inland), with lower temperature at night.  Thalvin was created in 1968 to manage the Ouled Thaleb winery and today covers over 500 hectares. It works on a cooperative model and is operated by a Berber tribe.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2022.
  • Region/appellation: AOG Zenata
  • Composition: Blend 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Grenache
  • Viticulture: Grapes from the estate’s Zenata vineyards grown on red clay soils known locally as “tirs”. The vines are bush-trained (gobelet) against the heat and cooled by Atlantic breezes. Sustainable farming.
  • Vinification: Traditional red vinification.
  • Aging: Matured in French oak barrels, about one-third new, then given further bottle ageing in the Domaine’s cellar before release.
  • Alcohol by volume: 12.5%

Tasting notes / winemaker notes: Ruby red with a purple sheen. Nose of blackcurrant, blackberry and coffee/mocha. The palate is full and spicy, with plenty of dark fruit, firm but rounded tannins and a long finish. Importer note: soft tannins, black cherry, cassis and subtle spice with a juicy finish.

Pairing:  A versatile partner for grilled lamb, beef, tomato-based dishes or semi-hard cheeses.

              Wine #3.  Domaine des Ouled Thaleb, ‘Syrocco’ Syrah, Zenata, Morocco, 2023

 The wine: From the same producer Domain des Ouled Thaleb, Syrocco, named after the winds that originate in the Sahara Desert, is the brainchild of superstar Alain Graillot of Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhône, France). The idea of Syrocco was born by accident.  Some 40 years ago, Graillot and his wife were cycling on holiday in Morocco, when he realized that the Zenata terroir mirrored his own vineyards in the Northern Rhone.  Graillot subsequently entered into partnership with Thalvin, which manages the Ouled Thaleb Winery. The fanciful label, which depicts Alain and his wife riding a bicycle, ties into his story of discovering the land while vacationing. Since his death in 2022 the project has been continued by his sons Maxime and Antoine. Syrocco is widely regarded as Morocco’s benchmark Syrah and is a perennial retailer “staff pick” in the U.S.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2023;
  • Region/appellation: AOG Zenata
  • Composition: 100% Syrah, Medium/full bodied.
  • Viticulture: Certified organic, old-vine Syrah (25+ years) from selected parcels in Zenata on the Atlantic coast between Casablanca and Rabat. Soils are sandy shale and gravel, and cold Atlantic winds create a cool microclimate with warm days and cool nights. Grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilizers or herbicides.
  • Fermentation: made in a Northern Rhône, Old-World style with soft, moderate extraction; fermented in concrete tanks to preserve fruit and terroir character.
  • Aging: 15 months in large, older barrels (used François Frères Burgundy casks), so the oak frames rather than flavors the wine.
  • Alcohol by volume: About 13.5%.

Tasting notes: Ripe blackberry, dark cherry and dried red cherry with hints of sandalwood, herbs, white pepper and spice. Balanced acidity, fine tannins and a dry, persistent finish in classic Mediterranean-Syrah style. A fruit-forward but elegant red.

Winemaker notes: The 2023 Syrocco is black-ruby in color with a compelling nose featuring complex aromatics and excellent balance. Lots of ripe purple-black fruits and dried red cherry swathed in hints of sandalwood, herbs, and spices. The long finish is dry and reminiscent of classic Mediterranean Syrah. It’s an excellent medium to full-bodied wine for a rich, wintry braise. Fruit forward, yet with classic Old World style.

Pairing:  Ideal with braised beef, lamb, mushrooms or other rich winter dishes.

Wine #4:  Plantaže, ‘Pro Corde’ Vranac Reserve, Podgorica, Montenegro, 2021

The Producer:  Plantaže, founded in 1963 and based in Podgorica, is Montenegro’s largest wine producer and one of the biggest in the Balkans. It is a joint-stock company with majority state ownership, listed on the Montenegro Stock Exchange. Its showpiece Šipčanik cellar, a former military underground hangar, is now a major wine-tourism attraction.

The wine: “Pro Corde” is Latin for “for the heart.” The wine grew out of a collaboration begun in 1986, with French viticulture researcher Michel Bourzeix, and inspired by Serge Renaud’s “French paradox” — research linking moderate red-wine drinking to lower heart disease.  After about seven years of trials, Plantaže developed a vinification technique that raises the natural content of procyanidins–grape polyphenols associated with vascular health. The wine was launched in 1993 as “Za srce” (“For the heart”), with no additives and is only produced during favorable harvests. Later research by Prof. Roger Corder (Nature, 2006) found procyanidins to be the key heart-protective compounds in red wine.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2021 (250,000 cases)
  • Region/appellation: Vranac Controlled origin/Lake Skadar Valley.
  • Composition: 100% Vranac
  • Viticulture: Estate Vranac from Plantaže’s Ćemovsko polje (Podgorica sub-region)—a flat, sunny, stony plain with hot summers moderated by Lake Skadar and the Adriatic. Hand-harvested in September.
  • Fermentation/vinification: Traditional maceration and fermentation, plus Plantaže’s special process designed to extract and concentrate procyanidins from the skins and seeds.
  • Aging: Three years total: about 35% in French oak barrels and 65% in stainless steel tanks.
  • Alcohol by volume: 14%.
  • Tasting notes / winemaker notes: Dry, robust, full-bodied red with high tannins, smoky notes, and aromas of blackberry and black fruit, dried fruit, discreet aromatic herbs and coffee. The finish is intense, long, and offers a pleasant mild bitterness like Primitivo. Serve at 15–18 °C.
  • Pairing: Pairs best with rich, savory, and protein-heavy dishes that can match its concentration and soften its tannins, including: red meats; lamb and game; barbecue and smoked meats; braised and slow cooked dishes; aged cheeses and Balkan specialties such as grilled minced-meat rolls ćevapi or rich meat-and-tomato pasta ragù
  • Critical acclaim/awards: 95 points + Gold medal – Decanter World Wine Awards 2025 (2021 varietal); Grand Trophy (Best Wine of the Balkans) + Best Red Wine of the Balkans + Double Gold – Balkans International Wine Competition 2025; Gold – Mundus Vini. One of the most decorated Montenegrin wines of recent years.

5. Club del Vino Palate: How Members Rated the Wines

It will be presented after the tasting

6. References:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moroccan_wine

https://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2024/12/367107/

https://www.grapecollective.com/domaine-ouled-thaleb-winemaker-stephane-marriot-on-the-history-of-wine-in-morocco/

https://www.winewithseth.com/winewiki/casablanca-benslimane-wine-region/

https://www.winewithseth.com/winewiki/alain-graillot-ait-souala-moroccos-rhone-inspired-renaissance/

https://www.lavieeco.com/au-royaume/domaine-ouled-thaleb-100-ans-deja/

https://theonlinesommelier.nl/product/domaine-ouled-thaleb-imperiale-red/

https://skurnik.com/sku/syrah-du-morocco-syrocco-thalvin-alain-graillot-3-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2

https://perrineswine.com/products/2023-alain-graillot-syrocco-syrah-zenata-morocco

https://astorwines.com/item/34617

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montenegrin_wine

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vranac

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plantaže

https://leap.unep.org/en/countries/me/national-legislation/decision-determining-region-wine-production

https://magazine.wein.plus/wine-between-the-adriatic-and-the-black-mountains-wine-flight-montenegro

https://www.decanter.com/decanter-world-wine-awards/world-vranac-day-16-award-winning-wines-to-try-512795/

https://www.lavimports.com/raspopovic-winery/

https://www.plantaze.com/?p=6498

https://vreme.com/mozaik/vino-srca/

https://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/British-Scientists-Identify-Potent-Heart-Helping-Compound-in-Red-Wine_3342

 .o0o.

Laughing matter:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wines of Slovenia – Tasting No  293 – September 29, 2026

Posted on September 29, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Wines of Slovenia

Tasting No  293 – September 29, 2026

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The  objective of this tasting is to explore the Slovenian wine regions and their wines.  The tasting will include a sparkling rose, a dry white and two red wines.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters:  Patricia Meduña and Laura Bocalandro

Participants: S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; Y. Cutler; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; E. and N. Gochicoa; P. Meduña; A. and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; J. Requena; R. Santiago; G. Smart; and G. Vega.

These are the wines:

  1. Kobal, Furmint, Podravje, Slovenia, 2025
  2. Kobal, ‘Roots’, Blaufrankisch, Podravje, Slovenia, 2023
  3. Rodica, ‘Refosk Classic’, Istria, Slovenia, 2024
  4. Kobal, ‘Penina Rose’ Brut, Ptuj, Slovenia, NV

The Menu

  • Prosciutto and melon
  • Flounder with capers and lemon butter
  • Hearty stew with pork and potatoes
  • Chocolate mousse cake.

  1. Background on Slovenia

The Republic of Slovenia is in Central Europe, sharing its borders with Italy, Austria, Croatia, and Hungary. Spanning an area of 7,827 square miles, it touches the Alps and borders the Adriatic Sea and has a population of 2.1 million residents.

Slovenia is mostly elevated. It’s the meeting point of four major European geographical/topographical regions: The Alps; The Dinaric Alps / Dinaric Karst; The Pannonian Plain; and the Mediterranean region.  The Pannonian Plain — in the east and northeast, consists of a lower, rolling landscape with fertile agricultural areas and important wine-growing regions. The Mediterranean region, along Slovenia’s Adriatic coast and hinterland, has a milder Mediterranean climate, with olives and vineyards.

Slovenia’s history spans from ancient Slavic migration and centuries of Habsburg rule to its modern independence as a European Union member. It was part of the Holy Roman Empire for nearly 1000 years. From the mid-14th century until 1918, most Slovenian lands were ruled by the Austrian Habsburg and later Austria-Hungary. Slovenes retained their language and culture despite strong German political and cultural influence. During the 19th century, Slovene nationalism and demands for greater political and cultural recognition grew. After World War I, the Habsburg Empire collapsed. Slovenes joined with Croats and Serbs to create a South Slavic state that soon became the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, renamed Yugoslavia in 1929.

After World War II, Slovenia became one of the six republics of socialist Yugoslavia, led for decades by Josip Broz Tito. Yugoslavia was communist but followed a more independent path. Slovenia became Yugoslavia’s most economically developed republic. After Tito’s death in 1980, Yugoslavia experienced increasing economic difficulties and political and nationalist tensions. Slovenia developed a strong movement for political pluralism, democracy, and greater autonomy. It declared independence on June 25, 1991. Unlike Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, Slovenia avoided a prolonged Yugoslav war. Slovenia gained broad international recognition. It developed as a parliamentary democracy and increasingly integrated with Western European institutions. In 2004 Slovenia joined both the European Union and NATO.

  1. Wine production in Slovenia

Although a small country, Slovenia’s climate and geology are diverse, resulting in stunning wines that reflect the varied character of their terroir. Wine making in Slovenia existed long before the Romans introduced winemaking to France, Germany and Spain. It traces back to the Celts and Illyrians, who inhabited the region around 400 BC. The Romans arrived in the 1st century BC, expanding viticulture to slake the thirst of the Empire’s growing colonies. Winemaking continued through the Middle Ages, flourishing through the diligence of Monastic orders. A relic of the era, the world’s oldest vine currently ages in Maribor—with a dedicated museum—at 450 years old. Eventually, the Phylloxera crisis, then socialist control in the 20th century—during which time the state took control of the wine industry—would stall artisan and fine wine production.  Huge wineries turned out mass-produced wine bottles for supermarket chains.

The independence of Slovenia in 1991 sparked the modern-day wine industry. Winemakers at big companies went independent and started personal brands.

Today Slovenia has more than 28,000 wineries making between 80 and 90 million liters annually from 50 to 60 varieties and from the country’s 22,300 hectares of vineyards. About 75% of the country’s production is white wine. Almost all of the wine is consumed domestically with only 6.1 million a year being exported—mostly to the United States, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and lately the Czech Republic. Most of the country’s wine production falls under the classification of premium (vrhunsko) wine, with less than 30% classified as basic table wine . Quality continues to replace quantity as wine makers enhance their skills, which is evident by the growing number of award-winning wines making their way onto tables the world over. The steep growing terrain in Slovenia promotes manual harvesting practices over mechanical for most of Slovenia’s vineyards.

Slovenia is divided into three primary wine-growing regions, each shaped by distinct climates, terrains, and wine-making traditions. Together, they yield a diverse range of styles from crisp, Germanic-style whites to rich, Mediterranean reds. The regions are:  Podravska ( Podravje) , Posavska (Prosavje), Primorska.

Podravska/Podravje.

Located in the northeast, bordering Croatia and Hungary, this region is overwhelmingly dedicated to production of white wine, which accounts for 95% to 97% of its total output. It is globally renowned for its elegant aromatic white varietals, premium sparkling wines, and world-class dessert (predicate) wines.

Podravje has a continental climate and is the largest wine region in Slovenia. It spans nearly 10,000 hectares and accounting for roughly 50% of the entire nation’s wine output. Dictated by a temperate continental climate with hot summers and harsh winters, sharp shifts between day and night temperatures yield wines with intense floral and fruity aromas paired with vibrant, crisp acidity.

The Podravje region is split into several subregions, although these are not officially bound yet and the different region naming systems are still in concurrent use. Prekmurje, Stajerska Slovenja, Maribon, Radgona-Kapela, Srednje Slovenska Gorice, Haloze and Ljuotomer-Ormoz are among those areas sometimes cited as subregions of Podravje.

The grape profiles carry strong Germanic and Central European influences. The key varietals are Sauvignon Blanc, Renski Rizling (Rhine Riesling), Laški Rizling (Welschriesling), Pinot Gris, and Traminer. Šipon (Furmint) is a regional white variety that delivers a rich, highly expressive, and punchy acidity. Maribor, in this region, is home to the more than 450-year-old grapevine, the oldest in the world.

Posavska/Posavje:

Located in southeast Slovenia along the Sava River, Posavje has approximately 4,400 hectares of cultivated wine growing land and an annual production of around 10 million liters. It is the smallest of the wine producing regions in Slovenia. For many years, Posavje has had a reputation as a producer of lighter white and red wines, although the region is home to international varieties as well as local specialties. The wines are light-bodied, refreshing, and heavily marked by high acidity and low alcohol volumes, driven by steep limestone/sandstone soils and a mixed continental climate.

The Dolenjska, in the Posavska region is  home to Cviček, a specialty of Slovenian viticulture and the region’s flagship creation.  It is a dry blend typically featuring red grapes mixed with white grapes. It has a pale ruby-red color, low alcohol content (usually around 9% to 10%), high freshness, and a distinct, slightly tart acidity.

Primorska:

Located in the west of Slovenia near the Adriatic Sea and the Italian border, Primorska enjoys a warm, sub-Mediterranean climate. It is famous for both crisp whites and full-bodied reds.  Primorska is the most developed of the three Slovenian wine regions with an annual output of over 25 million liters. There is a very strong Italian influence in this area – in language, food, culture, architecture and viticulture. 

The Primorska is the most diverse wine-growing region with its four wine-growing districts: Kras, Goriska Brda; Slovenska Istra and Vipava. Each wine-growing district has its own character and distinctive wines. Owing to the warm Mediterranean climate, the most famous Slovenian red wines originate from this region, as well as the renowned white and increasingly appreciated orange wines. Although not the largest in terms of surface area, the Primorska region leads in wine production in Slovenia and has the most award-winning wines and winemakers.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1.  Kobal, Furmint, Podravje, Slovenia, 2025

The producer: Kobal Wines is a small, family-run winery in the Haloze district of Lower Styria, in the hills along the Drava River near the town of Ptuj in northeastern Slovenia. The Kobal family has been making wine since 1931, and the estate in its current form was established in 2015 by winemaker Bojan Kobal, who trained in food science at the University of Ljubljana and has worked as a winemaker since 2002. He has since become one of Slovenia’s most decorated winemakers, with his wines earning well over a hundred medals at international competitions. Bojan Kobal, an oenologist who previously worked at Ptujska klet, founded the Kobal label in 2015, and the estate is now run with Špela Kobal from Ptuj and the Haloze hills. The winery produces a wide range of wines and styles, but with a strong emphasis on the indigenous grapes of the region, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Furmint, Yellow Muscat, Traminer, and Welschriesling, thus leaning heavily to the white side with distinct and precise beauty. With each bottle, Bojan strives to capture the dramatic nature of Haloze—its purity, minerality, and intensity—delivering wines that are both sophisticated and nuanced, yet fresh, beautiful, and approachable that nearly everyone can recognize as great wines from a truly great wine region.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2025
  • Grape Variety: 100% Šipon (Slovenian name for Furmint)
  • Region/Appellation: Podravje, Haloze/Štajerska sub-region.
  • Viticulture: The vineyards spread out over wine-growing sites of Haloze Hills. This Šipon comes from Haloze’s steep slopes, where vines average more than 35 years old in soils dominated by limestone-rich marl. Continental climate, with dry and hot summers, and snowy winters. Organic farming; in conversion to certified .
  • Vinification: short cold maceration of roughly 1-3 days to draw extra aromatics and texture from the skins, then ferment and rest on fine lees in stainless steel, with only a light dose of sulfur added at bottling to preserve the wine’s freshness. The grapes of 35 year old vines were harvested manually. After the short skin maceration, the wine was fermented with a combination of indigenous yeasts and select yeasts under controlled cold fermentation between 16°C – 18°C in stainless steel (inox) tanks in order to preserve the varietal aromatics and characteristics. Following fermentation, both wines were matured for 6 months in stainless steel tanks on lees, blended and coarsely fined and filtered before bottling. 
  • Alcohol: 13%  APV

Tasting Notes: Pale straw color with aromas of acacia blossom, wildflowers, and herbal spice, leading to a bright, zippy, mineral-driven palate with a hint of salinity. Furmint in particular reveals the tremendous minerality of Haloze marl-rich vineyards. The bouquet is reminiscent of herbs, white flowers and tropical fruits. Pleasant acidity and minerality on the palate are followed by the discreet creamy aftertaste that is typical of wines matured on lees. For perfect enjoyment within 2 years of bottling. Serve it chilled (6-8°C) with light fish dishes, grilled and steamed vegetables, charcuterie, young cheeses, pasta with white wine sauce, chicken and turkey.

Wine #2.  Kobal, Blaufrankisch ‘Roots’, Podravje, Slovenia, 2023

The Wine: The “Roots” line of wines from Kobal represents a deep, emotional commitment to low-intervention winemaking.

  • Vintage: 2023
  • Grapes: 100% Blaufrankisch (known locally as Modra Frankinja)
  • Region/Appellation: Podravje, Stajerska sub-region
  • Viticulture: Blaufränkisch thrives on the steep, marl-rich hillsides of Štajerska, which are heavily influenced by cold winds whistling down from the Alps and warm breezes pulling up from the Pannonian Plain.
  • Winemaking: Farmed sustainably and hand-harvested from mature vines, the fruit undergoes a spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts and is aged thoughtfully in neutral oak barrels to round out its structure without masking the fruit. The 2023 vintage delivers a vibrant, high-energy red that completely upends the expectation of heavy European varieties, favoring a crunchy, spice-flecked profile that drinks with effortless, bistro-style charm.

Tasting Notes: Blaufrankisch is a dark ruby-colored wine with an aroma which resembles overripened blackberries, chocolate, black mulberries and dried plums. The harmony of fruity aromas is nicely rounded up with wood characteristics both in scent and in flavor, with a moderately long velvet finish. The nose offers crushed blueberry, plum, black raspberry and slight baking spice. It is recommended to allow the wine to decant for up to 45 minutes before consumption. Good pairings are cured and smoked ham, grilled or roasted pork chops, brick-oven pizza, roasted chicken or turkey, grilled chicken salad, grilled burgers and French fries, and any type of game – venison, wild fowl, wild boar, rabbit.

Wine #3.  Rodica ‘Refošk Classic’, Istria, Slovenia, 2024

The Producer: Rodica is an organic producer in Truške, in Slovenian Istria. In 1998, Marinko Rodica, a car mechanic by trade, decided to start a new chapter in his life and became a winemaker. Ten years later, the winery had sixty thousand vines and was certified organic. The brand new environmentally friendly and energy efficient wine cellar was completed in 2012. The picturesque hills near Marezige and Truške are located 5 km from the Adriatic Sea, more specifically the Gulf of Trieste. The estate’s vineyards are planted at 250-350 meters asl, terraced, facing South. They enjoy significant day-night temperature swings, constant breezes, which keep the vineyards well-ventilated and naturally healthy for organic farming. Today, Rodica estate organically farms 15 hectares of vineyards, most of them planted with Malvasia and Refošk (Refosco). Refosco grape is technically an ancient group of closely related dark-skinned grape varieties. Their origins – which predate modern-day political borders – include northern Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia, western Slovenia and the Istrian Peninsula of Croatia. It produces dark, densely colored wines with aromas of grass and violets.

The Wine:  

  • Vintage: 2024
  • Grape: 100% Refošk
  • Region/Appellation: Primorska, Slovenian Istria (Slovenska Istra)
  • Viticulture: Certified Organic (unirrigated, limestone soil). Every second row of the vineyard is empty and planted with grass. Only natural fertilizer produced from natural manure is allowed. The vineyards are worked without any irrigation. The soil is rich with minerals, consisting predominantly of limestone. The vines are forced to “fight” to get water, which results in better quality grapes. The climate is a mild Mediterranean, with dry and hot summers, and mild winters. 
  • Winemaking: Seven days of maceration, spontaneous fermentation; aged for 6 months in an oak barrel, 1 year in stainless steel tank. Bottled after 18 months.
  • Alcohol: 12% APV.

Winemaker’s notes: Organic Refošk Klasika is of distinct red ruby color with violet shades. On the nose, it surprises us with its herbal (dried grass, hay) and mineral (moist soil) aromas, as well as aromas of fresh and ripe red berries and a hint of spices. In the body, the wine is fresh and elegantly balanced with a noticeable mineral taste and somewhat velvety tannins that hint more pleasant potential of aging. The characteristic acidity of Refošk is harmoniously integrated into the fruity and spicy taste.

Tasting Notes: The wine shows a deep ruby color with violet highlights, layered with warming spice, cracked pepper, and brambly dark fruit, backed by a touch of savory, gamey character that opens with air. Medium-bodied and earthy. It pairs beautifully with Istrian cured meats like pancetta or prosciutto, grilled meats, or tomato-based dishes.

Wine #4.  Kobal Penina Rose Brut, Ptuj, Slovenia, NV

The Producer: same as wines #1 and 2.

The wine: Penina Rosé Brut Ptuj is a sparkling rosé produced by Kobal Wines from Modra Frankinja, also known internationally as Blaufränkisch. The vineyards are tied to marl-dominant soils and a long viticultural history linked to the Roman and Austro-Hungarian periods; importer material notes many south-facing sites, some reaching 400 meters, and vines averaging more than 35 years, with organic farming at the family estate and work with committed local growers. The cuvée fits Kobal’s work through regional varieties, cold-climate Štajerska sourcing, and a sparkling program built around local grape identity.

  • NV
  • Grapes: 100% Modra Frankinja (Blaufränkisch)
  • Appellation: Podravje, Stajerska Slovenja sub-region
  • Viticulture: Blaufränkisch grapes grown on the steep, marl-rich slopes of Haloze. The vines here average several decades in age, and the region is regarded as one of Central Europe’s finer sites for this variety.
  • Winemaking: This wine is a Penina, the Slovenian term for a traditional-method sparkling wine. To produce a rosé, the red-skinned Blaufränkisch grapes spend brief contact with their skins before the base wine undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle, building fine, persistent bubbles and a light pink hue.
  • Alcohol: 12% APV

Tasting Notes: Pale dried-rose hue with persistent mousse; flavors highlight red berries, toast, baking spices, and a clean, crisp finish. In the glass this Penina shows a pale color reminiscent of dried roses, with a steady, energetic mousse. The nose brings toast and baking spice over cranberry and darker red fruit, while the palate stays dry, with a mineral, stony edge on the finish. The color is a delicate salmon with slight shades of ruby; the bubbles are tiny. The nose and taste are youthful and fruity, reminiscent of small berries, raspberry and wild strawberries. Very dry, medium-bodied, pleasant texture, fine bubbles. Serve it well chilled as an aperitif, or alongside charcuterie, soft cheeses, or roasted poultry.

  1. CV Members Rating

 

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices. 17 participants rated the wines tasted individually from Mediocre to Excellent. The combined scores determined the ranking order as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Kobal, ‘Penina Rose’ Brut, Ptuj, NV was the Best wine and Best Buy.

References

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

https://www.cellartracker.com/

MacArthur Beverages

https://www.rodica.si/en/wines/

https://www.vinumusa.com/

https://www.wikipedia.org/

https://www.thinkslovenia.com/

https://www.wineslovenia.com/

https://vinoteka-sodcek.si/en/

https://www.winetourism.com/ 

https://www.britannica.com/

 

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Croatian Wines: Tasting #292 August 25, 2026

Posted on August 18, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Croatian Wines: Origins, Regions, Grapes, and the Character of a Rising Wine Nation 

Tasting No  292 – August 25, 2026

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Croatia Flag (GIF) - All Waving Flags

 

  1. Tasting Overview

Croatia’s winemaking tradition stretches back more than 2,500 years, beginning with the ancient Greeks who planted vines on the Dalmatian islands and later expanded by the Romans. Despite its long heritage, Croatian wine remained relatively unknown internationally until the 1990s, when independence opened the door for modernization, investment, and global export. Today, Croatia stands as one of Europe’s most exciting emerging wine countries, combining indigenous grapes, dramatic coastal terroirs, and a mosaic of microclimates that produce wines of remarkable diversity.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters: Jorge Requena and José Brakarz

Participants:  M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; Y. Cutler; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; E. and N. Gochicoa; R. Gutierrez; N. Marzella; J. and L. Redwood; J. Requena; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G.
Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

  1. Saints Hills Mala Nevina, 2024
  2. Bibich Babić, 2016
  3. Zlatan Plavac Hvar, 2021
  4. Fakin ‘Il Primo’, Teran, 2019

The Menu

  • Insalata caprese
  • Risoto de Fungi
  • Lamb chops with roasted potatoes
  • Dessert, coffee or tea.

  1. History of Croatian Wine

Ancient Beginnings (5th Century B.C.):  Formal viticulture took off when Ancient Greek settlers colonized the southern Dalmatian islands, including Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos), and Korčula. Coins minted on the island of Vis during this period featured grape clusters and amphorae.

Roman Expansion (1st–4th Century AD): As the Romans took over the region, they organized and industrialized winemaking. The Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus is famously credited with introducing and expanding grape cultivation into the fertile, continental inland regions around the Danube.

The Middle Ages:  Monastic Influence: Similar to the rest of Western Europe, Catholic monasteries played a crucial role during periods of regional instability (and later under Ottoman pressure elsewhere), preserving winemaking knowledge for religious sacraments. Monks in local monasteries protected the vines when wars happened. This kept local, native grapes alive. Many of these unique grapes still grow today.

The Phylloxera Crisis (Late 1800s): In the 18th century, much of present-day Croatia came under control of the Habsburg Empire, where wine production flourished through the 19th and 20th centuries. The history of wine changed dramatically in 1874, when phylloxera started to appear in Europe. Wine production dropped, first in France and Germany, as growers struggled with the blight. For a while Croatian vineyards remained unaffected, and wine exports greatly increased to fill the demand. French companies even planted vines in Croatia with a view to expanding operations in the safe area. However, by the next century, Croatian vines had also succumbed to phylloxera, leading to the destruction of the vineyards and the collapse of the local economy in many areas. Winemakers had to replant using new roots. Scientists later proved that grape cuttings sent from Croatia to America during this time became the famous Zinfandel grape (!!).

The Yugoslav Era: Under the communist system of Yugoslavia, wine production became centered in large cooperatives, and private ownership of vineyards was discouraged. Quantity rather than quality became the main focus. The Croatian War of Independence in the early 1990s saw many vineyards and wineries once again destroyed.

The Modern Renaissance – Independence and Modernization: Following the Croatian War of Independence in the early 1990s, the country rebuilt its wine industry. A new generation of boutique, family-owned wineries emerged, adopting modern temperature-controlled stainless-steel methods alongside traditional oak and clay amphora techniques. It has now over 130 Indigenous Varieties: Croatia turned its focus back to its rich biodiversity, reviving over 130 autochthonous (indigenous) grape varieties. With the move back to small, independent producers, Croatian wines are once again competing with wine makers across the world. Small family farmers took back their land. They focused on growing local, native grapes. Today, Croatia makes over 40 native commercial wines.

 

  1. Major Wine Regions

Croatia is a Mediterranean country, lying to the east of Italy, across the Adriatic Sea. Towards the north lie the Alps, and to the north-east the country forms the western end of the great Pannonian Plain.

There are two distinct wine-producing regions in Croatia. The continental region in the north-east of the country produces rich fruity white wines, similar in style to the neighboring areas of Slovenia, Austria and Hungary. On the north coast, Istrian wines are similar to those produced in neighbouring Italy, while further south production is more towards big Mediterranean-style reds. On the islands and the Dalmatian coast, local grape varieties, microclimates and the rather harsh nature of the vineyards leads to some highly individual wines, and some of Croatia’s best known.

Continental Croatia (Inland): the interior of Croatia has a continental climate, with cold winters, and hot summers with enough rain to make it a major agricultural area. Winegrowing is concentrated in the hilly areas bordering on the Pannonian Plain. The climate is cooler, with influences from Central Europe. This region includes Slavonia, Hrvatsko Zagorje, Međimurje, and Plešivica. The key subregions are:

    • Slavonia: Famous for Graševina and oak forests used for aging barrels.
    • Plešivica: Croatia’s “Champagne region,” known for high-quality sparkling wines.

Wine Style: Fresh, aromatic whites; elegant, lighter reds; sparkling wines.

Coastal Croatia (Adriatic): this region includes Istria, Kvarner, and Dalmatia. The Dalmatian Coast is typically Mediterranean in climate, though the Dinaric Alps mountain range creates pockets of alpine climate at higher altitudes. The coastline of the Adriatic Sea is ideal for grape cultivation with its hot, humid summers and mild winters. Further down the coast, and on the islands, grapes are grown on the karst hillside, sometimes steep slopes with little rainfall. Some of the best-known wine-production areas are on the Dalmatian islands. Located along hillsides and slopes, wine regions along the coast receive many hours of sunlight, ideal for grape production. Key subregions include:

    • Istria: Often compared to Tuscany; home of Malvazija Istarska.
    • Dalmatia: Rugged vineyards producing Plavac Mali and other ancient grapes.

Wine Style: Full-bodied reds, mineral-driven whites, and powerful dessert wines.

  1. Main grape varietals

Croatia’s greatest strength is its indigenous varieties, many of which are found nowhere else in the world.

Croatia produces roughly 600–700 million liters of wine per year, placing it among Europe’s mid-sized producers. About 65% of production is white wine, reflecting the strength of continental regions. The remaining 35% is red, dominated by Plavac Mali and other Dalmatian varieties.

Most Croatian wineries are small, family-owned estates, often working steep, terraced vineyards that require manual labor. This artisanal approach results in limited quantities but high quality, with increasing attention from international critics.

Croatian Whites

  • Main White Grapes: Popular white grapes include Malvazija Istriana and Pošip. Graševina is the most widely planted white grape.
  • Dominant styles: Dry, crisp, fruity and aromatic (green apple notes), mineral. When aged in oak or acacia wood develops richer texture, nutty depth, and honeyed spic
  • Typical profile: Fresh acidity, citrus, orchard fruit, floral notes.

Croatian Reds

  • Main Red Grapes: Plavac Mali is the main red grape. It is used to make strong, premium red wines like Dingač and Postup. Also prominent, the Teran and Babić grapes are highly regarded native red grape varieties in Croatia (included in our selection), though they make up smaller shares (about 4%) of the country’s total. Teran wine is considered as one of the highest quality red wines on the market, having rich and robust character. The wine is known for its persistency and slightly higher acidity than other similar wines. Babić is a signature Croatian red grape variety celebrated for producing deeply colored, full-bodied wines with a distinct Mediterranean character.
  • Dominant styles: Full-bodied, structured, Mediterranean
  • Typical profile: Dark berries, plum, spice, herbal notes, firm tannins

In conclusion, Croatia’s wine identity is defined by its ancient origins, indigenous grapes, and dramatic terroirs stretching from continental plains to sun-drenched Adriatic islands. With rising global recognition, Croatian wines offer a compelling blend of tradition and innovation. Whether tasting a crisp Graševina from Slavonia, a mineral Malvazija from Istria, or a powerful Plavac Mali from Dalmatia, the country’s wines reflect a unique cultural and geographic tapestry that is increasingly capturing the attention of wine lovers worldwide.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1.  Saints Hills, Mala, Nevina, 2024

– The Producer: Saints Hills Winery is a premium estate founded in 2006 by husband-and-wife team Ernest and Ivana Tolj. It is located in the heart of the Pelješac Peninsula. The name “Saints Hills” and its underlying vineyard sites reflect a family narrative: the estate’s primary vineyards are named not strictly after traditional saints, but after three of the family’s children: Sv. Lucia (in Dingač), Sv. Roko (in Komarna), and Sv. Ante (located further north in Istria).

– The wine:

  • Vintage: 2024
  • Composition: 72% Malvazija Istriana, 28% Chardonnay
  • Region/Appellation: Istria
  • Viticulture: Grapes are grown exclusively in the Ante (St. Anthony) vineyard, located in the village of Radovani. The vineyard is characterized by red limestone soil. The vines benefit from full southern sun exposure balanced by constant maritime airstreams. These sea breezes cause massive temperature shifts between day and night, slowing down grape ripening so the fruit can retain its natural acidity and freshness. all grapes are entirely hand-picked at peak maturity, then immediately cooled to 5°C before undergoing secondary sorting on tables.
  • Winemaking and aging: fermented in egg-shaped concrete vats and big wooden vats (32hl); aged 6–9 months in concrete and wood vats, plus 10% in new French oak barriques.
  • Alcohol: 12% APV.

Tasting notes: Croatian Malvazija Istarska is the flagship white grape of the Istrian Peninsula, known for producing straw-yellow wines with aromas of acacia flowers, stone fruits, and a distinct, refreshing mineral finish. Palate is dominated by citrus aromas of green apple and peach. Pale yellow in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of caramelized pineapple, orange blossom and a hint of butterscotch. Pineapple transitions to the palate, where it is joined by vanilla bean and white peach flavors with a hint of honeysuckle set into a well-textured wine with touches of white chocolate and lemon zest on the finish

Wine #2.  Bibich, Babić, 2016

– The Producer: Bibich Winery is located in the small village of Plastovo near the coastal town of Skradin, Croatia, is widely recognized as one of the most innovative and culturally significant boutique estates in the Balkans. While the Bibić family’s winemaking lineage in Dalmatia stretches back over 500 years to the late 1400s, its modern chapter is rooted in sheer resilience. During the 1990s Croatian War of Independence, the family’s original estate, ancient wine cellars, and grandfather’s vineyards were entirely decimated. Returning to the war-torn landscape in 1995 with no electricity or running water, winemaker Alen Bibić built the entire operation back up from scratch, reclaiming old vineyards and releasing his first commercial vintage in 1998.

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2016
  • Composition: 100% Babić
  • Region/Appellation: Sjeverna Dalmacija (North Dalmatia).
  • Viticulture: vineyards are carved out of highly porous limestone bedrocks at a higher elevation. This geography results in dramatic temperature drops at night, allowing the grapes to retain a vibrant, refreshing acidity that balances Babić’s naturally high sugar potential. The vines are managed through aggressive winter pruning and green harvesting, forcing low yields per vine to concentrate sugars, tannins, and complex anthocyanins. Grapes are selected and harvested by hand.
  • Winemaking: after fermentation the wine is matured for 12 months in French oak barrels
  • Alcohol: 15% APV.

Tasting Notes: Color: deep garnet-red with intense violet reflections. Aroma: Complex nose driven by dark fruit (purple plum, black cherry, dried fig), interwoven with notes of cocoa powder, licorice, candied violets, and a distinct, fine touch of tobacco and mesquite smoke. Palate: Elegant, and heavy-bodied but balanced by a lively, refreshing thread of Mediterranean acidity. It presents downy, well-integrated tannins alongside hints of clove, iron, mint tea, and a subtle stony minerality on a long finish.

Wine #3:  Zlatan, ‘Plavac’, Hvar, 2021

– The Producer: Zlatan Otok (which translates to “Golden Island”) is one of Croatia’s most legendary and highly decorated wineries. Its history is deeply intertwined with the rebirth of modern, independent Croatian winemaking. The winery was started on the Island of Hvar, in 1986, by Zlatan Plenković, a poor local fisherman with no formal enological training. He initially built a modest seaside guesthouse and crafted small batches of rustic wine for his guests.  In 1991, following Croatia’s declaration of independence, Zlatan Otok became only the second private winery established in the country, breaking away from the state-controlled cooperative system of the former Yugoslavia. Zlatan Otok has grown to become one of the country’s most prominent premium producers. The estate now manages and sources grapes from over 120 hectares of vineyards spread across unique coastal terroirs.

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Composition: 100% Plavac Mali.
  • Region/appellation: Island of Hvar, Dalmacija
  • Viticulture: grapes are grown on steep southern slopes (35% to 45% inclines) of Hvar Island (particularly around the micro-locality of Sveta Nedjelja), using 100% manual labor and hand-harvesting.
  • Vinification: 8 to 14 days of skin maceration in stainless steel tanks, followed by controlled fermentation using native/natural yeasts.
  • Aging: 12 months in large, traditional Slavonian and fresh oak barrels (4,000 to 8,000 liters), coarsely fined, and bottled unfiltered to retain its raw character.

Alcohol: 14 % ABV.

Tasting Notes:  Color: deep, dark ruby; aromas: rich and highly layered. It features prominent notes of dark fruits like blueberries and plums, interwoven with baking spices, Dalmatian herbs, and a subtle hint of hay. Palate: complex and powerful. It is characterized by well-defined, accented tannins, balanced freshness, and a distinct sea-salt minerality. Long and persistent finish.

Wine #4: Fakin, ‘Il Primo’ Teran, Istria, 2019

– The Producer: The Fakin Winery has meticulously cultivated its love for winemaking over the years. Their unwavering commitment, coupled with the unique Motovun soil (marl, sandstone, and limestone), a favorable climate blessed with abundant sunshine and refreshing winds, and an unparalleled understanding of their grapes, ensures the creation of exceptional wines of the highest quality. Teran is the most important red grape variety in the Istrian region.

The Wine

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Composition: 100% Teran
  • Region/appellation: Istria
  • Vineyard: “Flaminio” single vineyard
  • Viticulture: The viticulture relies on old vines, unique microclimates, and distinctive soil structures around the medieval hilltop town of Motovun, Istria. The vines used for this vintage were originally planted in 1972, yielding small amounts of deeply concentrated fruit.
  • Vinification: Selection of the best grapes harvested by hand at the start of October. Maceration and fermentation for 21 days
  • Aging: 24 months in new oak barrels
  • Alcohol: 14,0 % APV.

Members opinions:

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices. 20 participants rated the wines tasted  individually from Mediocre to Excellent. The combined scores determined the ranking order as shown in  the following Table. In the final results, Zlatan Plavac Hvar, 2021 was the Best wine and Saints Hills Mala Nevina, 2024 was the Best Buy.

 

References:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croatian_wine

https://gocroatiasail.com/go-croatia-sail-wine-culture-in-croatia

https://visiteurope.com/experiences/croatias-growing-wine-scene

https://saintshills.com/

https://zlatanotok.hr/wines/

https://fakinwines.com/en/fakin-single-vineyard/

https://bibich.co/wines/babic/

 

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27 Wine Jokes That Will Make You Laugh So Hard You'll Have to Pee... Again!

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Tasting No 291 – July 28, 2026 Wines from Lebanon

Posted on July 25, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 291 – July 28, 2026

Wines from Lebanon: An Ancient Legacy Reborn

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

Lebanon is one of the world’s oldest winegrowing cultures, a place where 7,000 years of viticultural history meet a fiercely modern, resilient, and quality‑driven wine industry. From Phoenician amphorae to high‑altitude organic vineyards, Lebanese wine is a story of continuity, reinvention, and deep connection to land. This tasting aims to explore some of the fine wines produced in Lebanon.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters: Claudia and Agilson Perazza

Participants: TBA

These are the wines:

  1. Massaya, Blanc Beqaa Valley, 2023
  2. Massaya, ‘Cap Est Red’, Bekaa Valley, 2018
  3. Chateau Musar, ‘Hochar Pere et Fils’, Bekaa Valley, 2021
  4. Chateau Musar, ‘Lebanon Rouge’, Bekaa Valley, 2018.

The Menu

  • Arugula and calamari salad
  • Agnolotti in pink sauce
  • Veal Marsala with potatoes and vegetables
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

 

  1. Brief History of Wine Production in Lebanon

Where Did Wine Come From?

The ancient Egyptians drank wine. Back then, wine was consumed by high society, and beer was the commoner’s drink. The Egyptians got their inspiration from the Levant – a historical-geographical region along the eastern Mediterranean, generally referring to modern-day Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, Jordan, and often Cyprus -, who had been making wine since 4000 BC. One ancient wine cellar was found in Armenia inside a cave on the side of a hill. The cellar dates back to 3500 BC and shows how ancient winemaking was done.

Vitis vinifera may have been domesticated in Lebanon, although it probably arrived from the South Caucasus via Mesopotamia or the Black Sea trade routes. The yeast strain crucial to winemaking Saccharomyces cerevisiae may also have originated in Mesopotamia, but a microsatellite-based study also identified a distinct cluster in Lebanon. Wine was cultivated and then domesticated in Lebanon, at least 2000 years before Alexander the Great conquered the Levant in 332 BC.

A 7,000-Year Wine Heritage

The Lebanese wine history dates back more than five millennia. It begins with the Phoenicians, an ancient civilization centered on the coastal cities of Tyre, Sidon, and Byblos in the central coastal strip of the Levant region (modern-day Lebanon, western Syria and northern Israel). Archaeological evidence from Byblos, Tyre, Sidon, and the Bekaa Valley shows that wine was central to daily life, ritual, and commerce. The ancient port of Byblos, just north of the Lebanese capital Beirut, is widely viewed as the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city. It was famous in classical antiquity as a wine center, in terms of both production and trading.

Phoenicians’ strong culture of travel and trade was of considerable importance to the development of early Mediterranean civilization. For more than 1000 years, Phoenician traders consistently extended their influence from their homelands along the north coast of Africa and up into southern Europe – notably Sardinia, Sicily, southern Italy, Greece and Turkey. They traded gold, dyes (including Tyrian purple), metalwork, glass, ceramics and wine. It was this enthusiastic talent for trade and technology that we have to thank for much of Europe’s winemaking history, including the propagation of various members of the Vitis vinifera vine family.

The Romans expanded viticulture dramatically, especially in the Bekaa Valley, where the monumental Temple of Bacchus still stands as one of the world’s most impressive tributes to wine.

This remained the case until the 16th Century, when the Ottoman armies swept southward around the eastern Mediterranean. Wine production and consumption were prohibited under their Sharia law, so the once-thriving wine industry around Byblos, Tyre and Sidon fell silent. Yet, through Ottoman rule, political upheaval, and modern conflict, viticulture never disappeared. Instead, it adapted—quietly maintained by families, monasteries, and later by French‑influenced estates.

Today, Lebanon’s wine industry is a testament to resilience and craftsmanship, producing elegant, terroir‑driven wines that reflect both ancient roots and contemporary ambition.

Modern history of Lebanese winemaking

The modern wine industry here can be traced back to the 19th Century. As non-Muslims living in a Muslim country, Christians living in Lebanon were permitted certain freedoms, one of which was the right to make wine for ceremonial purposes. It was on this basis that, in 1857, a group of Jesuit priests of Taanayel (Tanail), an ancient monastic settlement just down the valley from Ksara, a small town in the Bekaa Valley, the first original winery in Lebanon’s finest wine terroir. Château Ksara had the first vineyard planted in 1857, with Cinsault plants brought from France via the colonies in Algeria.

Château Ksara warrants its own chapter in the annals of Lebanese wine history. The Christian community that founded the original winery effectively founded the modern Lebanese wine industry, and their efforts have been rewarded with the Château’s success as the nation’s largest wine producer. The initial winery was very subdued, and it was not until the French took control of the country after WW1 (under the League of Nations’ French Mandate for Syria and Lebanon) that Bekaa Valley wine production began to expand. Even today, one in every three bottles of Lebanese wine is produced at Ksara. Château Musar and Château Kefraya are among the other notable, long-established wine estates.

The country spent a period under French rule in the early 20th Century, which explains why Lebanon’s wine industry is so closely modeled on its counterpart in France. It is also the reason why Lebanese wineries are described as châteaux and why the national wine authority, the UVL, is the Union Vinicole du Liban.

The wine industry also had to cope with a turbulent period of civil war from 1975 to 1990. As well as causing around 120,000 fatalities, around one million people left the country, and the domestic wine market was decimated. With the end of the conflict, the Beqaa Valley and the wider Lebanese wine industry could at least begin to work towards modernization and expressing its full potential. However, the country has since then had to cope with further challenges such as the spillover of the Syrian War, the explosion at the port of Beirut, civil protests and economic crises, and more recently the ongoing conflict with Israel.

Arak: the Lebanon’s national drink. Arak is an anise liqueur produced in numerous Middle Eastern countries. Its production is thought to date back to at least the 12th Century in Lebanon. It is produced from grape brandy which undergoes a second distillation mixed with aniseeds. It is often served diluted with water or ice, taking on a cloudy appearance.

  1. Lebanese Wine Production Today

Wine Industry: location and scale

Modern Lebanese viniculture has moved away from the ancient Phoenician port cities and inland to the fertile Bekaa Valley. There are also a handful of vineyards near Jezzine, a few miles beyond the southern end of the Bekaa, just inland of Sidon. In 2011, roughly six million bottles of Lebanese wine were produced from 2000 hectares (5000 acres) of vineyards. Lebanon’s winemakers produced 15 million bottles in 2024. As of 2025, Lebanon’s wine market generates around US$65M in revenue from at-home sales and US$116M from out-of-home sales, totaling US$180m while at-home revenue is projected to grow annually by 1.06% (CAGR 2025-2029).

Additionally, a growing number of wineries are adopting organic and biodynamic farming methods. Christian Maronite monks introduced the country’s first certified organic wine, labeled Adyar—meaning “monasteries” in Arabic—which has recently caught the attention of connoisseurs with bottles emblazoned with a cross.

The majority of Lebanese wine is exported to the UK, France and the US, where the receptive consumer bases have encouraged healthy growth in Lebanon’s modern wine industry. In 1998, there were fewer than 10 wineries in Lebanon; now there are more than 50.

Despite economic challenges, the wine industry is more dynamic than ever: Organic and sustainable farming is expanding, especially in high altitude vineyards; micro terroir expression is a growing focus, with wineries farming parcels across multiple elevations; modern winemaking blends French influence with local tradition; indigenous grapes are being revived and championed, while family-run estates remain the backbone of the industry. The result is a wine scene that is vibrant, diverse, and internationally respected, producing everything from robust, Bordeaux‑style reds to fresh whites and elegant rosés. Gilbert & Gaillard.

Grape Varieties

Red wines account for most of the output (almost 70%) in the form of red blends made from the classic wine grapes of southern France.  White wines account for less than 14% of production. The original Bekaa Valley vineyards were planted with Cinsault, which was subsequently joined by other French varieties. Most of these remain in Lebanon’s vinicultural makeup today: Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, among the red grapes, and Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Chardonnay white varieties. Cinsault, though not indigenous, has become deeply rooted in Lebanese viticulture, producing fresh, red‑fruited wines and forming the backbone of many blends.

Lebanon does not have native red varieties but do have white indigenous grapes – Obaideh (also written as Obeidi), Merwah (Marwah) and Youssefi grape varieties. Obeideh is a historic white grape believed by some researchers to be related to ancient Levantine cultivars. It is high in sugar and low in acidity, producing full‑bodied whites with stone‑fruit notes, honeyed depth, and a mineral backbone, often oak‑aged.  Merwah is a high‑altitude white variety with aromatic lift and complexity. It is valued for its disease resistance and ability to produce wines with vibrant acidity and fruity flavors, specifically subtle citrus and nutty notes. Traditionally used in arak, it is now vinified as a premium still wine, especially from old vines in mountainous sites. More recently, winemakers are increasingly focused on rediscovering and experimenting with other lesser-known native grape varieties, such as the white grapes Tfeifihi, and Zeini, and the red varieties Meksassi, Mourad, and Soubbagh.

Wine Regions

Lebanon’s geography is dramatic: two mountain ranges, a fertile central valley, and vineyards planted at some of the highest elevations in the Northern Hemisphere. This creates a mosaic of microclimates and terroirs.

Bekaa Valley (or Beqaa Valley) —The heart of the Lebanese wine

A high plain nestled between two mountain ranges, he Bekaa is the heartland of modern Lebanese wine. Almost 90 percent of Lebanon’s wine is made here, as is a respectable proportion of its Arak.

Since Biblical times, the Bekaa Valley has been prized for its soil, climate, and vines, supplying wine to the Phoenicians, Persians, and Roman army. The valley’s conditions remain ideal for vines today: rich soils, protected slopes and valleys, almost year-round sunshine, high altitude with no summer rainfall, guaranteed harvest start dates, and minimal risk of disease.

The long, narrow valley is a high-altitude (1,000m / 3000ft) oasis of agriculture and viticulture that runs north-south for around 65 km (40 miles) between the Mount Lebanon to the west and Anti-Lebanon mountains to the east. The mountains are the key factor in the terroir here. They protect the deserts to the east and the maritime rains to the west. The vineyards benefit from the rain shadow cast by Mount Lebanon (which is a 150-kilometer mountain range).

Moving west, vineyards climb the slopes of Mount Lebanon and the Chouf, an emerging high-altitude terroir, where cooler temperatures and coastal influences shape a different style of wine. These areas are characterized by small-scale terraced vineyards, organic and sustainable practices and boutique producers focused on terroir expression.

The new frontier are Batroun Mountains, a small wine region in northern Lebanon that is home to some of the most innovative vineyards. At very high altitudes (up to 1,800 m), vineyards are spread among the various towns in the mountains which overlook the coastal city of Batroun. International red grape varieties grown here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. White counterparts include Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat Hamburg (Muskat Trollinger).

Local specialties include the Batroun city, one of the oldest cities in the world, founded by the Phoenicians. It is thought to be the “Batruna” documented in the Amarna letters, which date back to the 14th Century BC. It was an important Roman site, was home to a Crusader citadel, and an administrative center in the Ottoman Empire.

  1. Information on the Wines

The Wineries:

Massaya Winery is located in the northeast of the Bekaa Valley, in the hills of eastern Lebanon. It is one of Lebanon’s most prominent wine producers, making wines from classic French varieties. The Massaya estate was revived in the 1990s, following Lebanon’s long civil war. The winery, cellars and vineyards were rebuilt and repaired with help and inspiration from France – specifically from winemakers Dominique Hébrard and Hubert de Boüard of Bordeaux, and Daniel Brunier of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in the Rhône Valley. Together, the Hébrard and Brunier families own 30 percent of Massaya with the remaining share retained by the Ghosn family.

Massaya has two wineries. The main site in Tanaïl, some 50km east of Beirut, produces red wines and arak, while a higher-altitude site Faqra in Ouyoun el Simane, 50km north of Tanaïl (and close to the ski resorts of Mzaar and Faqra), is given over to white wine and rosé production.

The Massaya’s Tanaïl main estate is less than an hour’s drive from Baalbeck. With such a large spectrum of terroirs, it took the producers around 10 years of experimentation to find the inspiration now expressing in the single vineyard labels, choosing carefully the spots for their vines to capitalize on the Beqaa’s favorable terroir in light of climate change. In the area around Ras Baalbeck to the north-east, where the two mountain ranges recline, Grenache noir and Mourvèdre thrive in the harsh environment with stony soil, daily wind, extreme temperature changes. These grapes are used primarily in the Cap Est label.

The Obeïdi grapes that give character to Massaya Blanc and Massaya Arak are grown by farmers in the northern part of the Beqaa.

The house makes a range of wines, where Classic encompasses Assaya’s entry level, and with Silver or Gold labels denoting reserve-level wines.

Chateau Musar is a renowned wine producer based in Ghazir, Lebanon, just north of the capital Beirut, producing a range of wines from vineyards in the Bekaa Valley, and best-known for its eponymous grand vin: Chateau Musar. Gaston Hochar set up the vinery in 1930 after traveling through Bordeaux, and today the old vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan and indigenous Lebanese grapes Obaideh and Merwah.

In 1959, Hochar’s son Serge took control of the vineyards, having returned from Bordeaux where he was studying enology. The vineyard suffered during the Lebanese Civil War (two vintages were lost or damaged). His efforts to produce and promote his wine during this period – with shells falling around the winery and execution squads setting up roadblocks – made Serge Hochar a major figure in the global wine trade. He was celebrated as the inaugural Decanter Magazine Man of The Year in 1984.

After the civil war Hochar began to look beyond the domestic market. The wine began to gain recognition after Michael Broadbent MW wrote about it in Decanter magazine in 1979 and by the time the war ended in 1990 just a small fraction of Chateau Musar’s production was sold locally.

Musar’s flagship Chateau Musar Red wine, made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault, is the most important wine made in Lebanon, from vineyards near the Bekaa Valley villages of Aana and Kefraya on gravelly soils over limestone. Planted from the 1930s onwards, yields are low from these mature bush vines (average age: 40 years) – between 15 to 35hl per hectare. It is fermented in concrete, aged for one year in French oak and then rested in the Musar cellars for at least three years before release – sometimes many more. It is famous for its great (intentional) vintage variation and is highly collectable.

The Hochar Pere et Fils is the estate’s second wine, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan and aged in oak. In its top tier, Chateau Musar also makes a small amount of white wine from Obaideh and Merwah (thought to be related respectively to Chardonnay and Semillon) from high-altitude vineyards in the Beqaa Valley. These are aged in oak barrel, and like the red wine, spend time in bottle before being released. Chateau Musar also produces an arak.

International recognition: In addition to receiving high scores from critics like Robert Parker and Wine Spectator, Chateau Musar achieved international recognition at the Bristol Wine Fair of 1979 and for a long time was the only Lebanese wine widely available in the United Kingdom. Château Musar was ranked among the Top 100 Wineries of 2022 by Wine & Spirits.

Wine #1 – Massaya, Blanc Beqaa Valley, 2023

  • Vintage: 2023
  • Composition: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Obeïdi;
  • Viticulture: Grapes grown on chalky clay soils at the foothills of the Mount Lebanon mountain range between 1,200-1,600 meters above sea level; vines averaging 20 years in age; hand harvested into crates;
  • Vinification: conducted at the Faqra winery, direct pressing with a pneumatic press and fermented in 30hL foudres and demi-muids;
  • Aging: Aged on the lees for about 8 months;
  • 5-13% APV %

Winemaker notes: A well-balanced white with white flower scents, packed with fruit and freshness. It combines depth, roundness, crispiness and a middle-eastern twinkle thanks to the local Obeïdi.

Wine #2 – Massaya, ‘Cap Est Red’, Bekaa Valley, 2018

  • Vintage: 2018
  • Composition: 50% Grenache, 50% Mourvèdre;
  • Viticulture: grapes grown on the hillsides of the north-easterly portion of the Beqaa Valley, in Chalky clay soils, at an altitude of 1 200 meters, in the Ras Baalbeck area. An arid and continental environment, where Mount Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon mountain ranges meet; vines are 18 years old on average;
  • Vinification: conducted at our Tanaïl winery; grapes are hand-picked, conveyed in crates, and sorted on tables. They are fully destemmed, then vinified for at least 30 days in temperature controlled oak vats.
  • Aging: 22 months in oak vats. Bottled without fining or filtering at 2 years.

Winemaker notes: an elegant distinctive pale ruby wine with a nose that subtly blends violets and ripe red berry fruits leading to a progressive body and a compelling minerality. Seductive velvety elegance overlays an attractive weave of fine tannins, highlighting the minerality of the terroir. Suitable for ageing.

Tasting notes: “Medium carmine-garnet colour, ochre reflections, broad edge brightening. Fresh plums, delicate hint of liquorice, subtle wood savouriness, candied mandarin zest, inviting bouquet. Juicy, fruity sweetness, a hint of figs, ripe tannins, mineral and well adhering, already developed and drinkable.”(Falstaff).

Pairs well with rabbit casseroles, slow cooked lamb and sausages with mashed potatoes.

Wine #3 – Chateau Musar, ‘Hochar Pere et Fils’, Bekaa Valley, 2021

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Composition: Cinsault 50%; Grenache 40%; C. Sauvignon 10%
  • Viticulture: grapes sourced  from a single vineyard near the Bekaa Valley village of Aana, characterized by deep soils over limestone. At an average age of 30 years old, yields are low from these mature bush vines at 20-30 hl per hectare;
  • Vinification: the three varietal components are fermented in cement vats,
  • Aging: 6 to 9 months in French oak barrels (from the forest of Nevers) before blending and bottling (unfined and unfiltered). As with the Chateau Musar Red, the wines are blended to reflect the character of each vintage;
  • 5% ABV

Winemaker notes: Dark ruby in color with cherry fruit, sweet spices and a smokiness on the nose. Cherries and blackcurrant follow through to the palate with a hint of rose (from the Grenache of this year). It is an elegant vintage with a long future ahead, from a year with no climatic extremes – from winter pruning to the September harvest. This wine is an ideal choice for casseroles, roasted meats, tuna steaks and Mediterranean dishes.

Wine #4 – Chateau Musar, ‘Lebanon Rouge’, Bekaa Valley, 2018

  • Vintage: 2018
  • Composition: equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsault;
  • Viticulture: grapes are from vineyards near the Bekaa Valley villages of Aana and Kefraya on gravelly soils over limestone. Planted from the 1930s onwards, yields are low from these mature bush vines (average age: 40 years): Between 15 to 35hl per hectare.
  • Vinification: each varietal components in Chateau Musar Red undergo lengthy fermentation with their natural yeasts, in cement vats at temperatures below 30°C , for 6 months;
  • Aging: aged for 12 months in French Nevers oak barrels before blending in January 2021; the resulting blend is then placed back in cement tanks before being bottled, without fining or filtration, in August 2021.
  • 14% ABV

Winemaker notes: released in the spring 2024, the 2018 vintage has a deep garnet colour in the glass with dried cherries and mature red fruits on the nose. The palate is rich and concentrated with cranberries, raisins, and dates; there is good acidity with fine tannins. It has an enticing smoky, dusty fruit with soft liquorice undertones and at 6 years of age upon release, it is already developed and mature.

Tasting notes: “Musar’s typical blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan, aged six years before release. I thought this was a fabulous young Musar, brimming with aroma and flavor already which is quite primary in character, so there is surely more to come with cellaring. Plush with cranberry and ripe, rich blackcurrant, a hint of mint in there too. Such sweet and mouth-filling fruit, caressing the tongue with medium-bodied and quite silky texture, hints of earth and smoky minerals, but really all about smooth and plush flavors over moderate tannin and particularly juicy acidity. A fine rendition of this classic in a relatively forward style, but it will age”. (Tom Cannavan, 2025).

Pairings: Moroccan-style lamb tangine; roasted game bird.

References:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lebanese_wine

https://cluboenologique.com/story/chateau-musar-in-the-war-years-a-vintage-report-with-a-difference/

https://www.gilbertgaillard.com/en/magazine/discovery/how-lebanese-terroir-and-wineries-are-expressions-of-an-ancient-land?

https://www.mustseespots.com/lebanon/articles/lebanese-wine-regions-a-guide-to-vineyards-tastings/

https://www.voyageursduvin.com/en/guide-lebanon

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-lebanon

https://chateaumusar.com/wines/chateau-musar-red/

https://chateaumusar.com/wines/hochar-pere-et-fils-red/

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

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Laughter is strong medicine:


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Tasting No 290 – June 30, 2026 – Greece and Cyprus

Posted on June 22, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 290 – June 30, 2026

Wines of Greece and Cyprus: A Historical and Contemporary Overview

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

For more than 5,000 years, the wine cultures of Greece and Cyprus have evolved side by side, helping shape the history of Mediterranean viticulture. This tasting explores their shared heritage through five emblematic indigenous wines. Assyrtiko and Xynisteri reveal the freshness, vitality and regional distinctiveness of Aegean and Cypriot white wines, while Xinomavro and Maratheftiko highlight the complexity, structure and character of two notable native red varieties. The journey concludes with Commandaria, Cyprus’s historic sweet wine and the world’s oldest continuously produced named wine. Together, these selections trace a path from antiquity to the present, showcasing the revival of indigenous grape varieties, terroir-driven winemaking, and the ongoing renaissance of two of the world’s oldest and most enduring wine cultures.

♦  Presenters: Cristian Santelices, Jorge Claro y Luis Uechi

♦  Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Estrada; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; G. García; E and N. Gochicoa; R. Gutierrez; J. Leon; N. Marzella; O. Mason; A. and C. Perazza; J. Redwood; G. Smart; L. Uechi; and G. Zincke.

 

These are the wines:

  1. Gavalas ‘Santorini’ Assyrtiko, Santorini PDO, 2024 (Greece)
  2. Makarounas ‘Aerides’ Xynisteri, Paphos PGI, 2024 (Cyprus)
  3. Alpha Estate, ‘Hedgehog Vineyard’ Xinomavro, Amyndeon PDO, 2022 (Greece)
  4. Zambartas, Maratheftiko, Limassol PGI, 2023 (Cyprus)
  5. Keo St John Commandaria – PDO (Fortified dessert wine, Cyprus).

The Menu

  • Greek style salad
  • Linguine with calamari
  • Grilled lamb chops w/brown sauce and vegetables
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

  1. A Historical and Contemporary Overview

The Mediterranean region is central to understanding the origins and development of modern civilization. Often regarded as the “cradle of Western civilization”, it was home to some of humanity’s earliest and most influential societies, including those of the Fertile Crescent, where settled agriculture first emerged. Among its most enduring cultural achievements is wine, a beverage that has accompanied humanity for thousands of years and has played a vital role in religion, trade, agriculture, and social life. Few countries illustrate this heritage more clearly than Greece and Cyprus, whose intertwined wine histories span more than four millennia and represent one of the world’s oldest continuous viticultural traditions.

The origins of wine. Archaeological evidence indicates that the earliest known winemaking took place more than 8,000 years ago in present-day Georgia before spreading throughout Mesopotamia, the Near East and across the Mediterranean, reaching Cyprus, Greece, and other regions. Early peoples discovered that wild grapevines (Vitis vinifera-sylvestris), native to the region stretching from the Caucasus to the Fertile Crescent, could be fermented into an intoxicating beverage. The deliberate production of wine required innovation so, over time, the various ancient civilizations gradually refined the process turning it into an art form that has stood the test of time. As trade networks expanded, grape cultivation spread across Europe, Asia, and North Africa, giving rise to diverse grape varieties and regional winemaking traditions that shaped the wines we know today (see Map of trade networks for details).

Without modern technologies such as stainless steel tanks, temperature control, or advanced filtration, early winemakers relied on natural, minimal-intervention methods. Grapes were harvested by hand and often crushed by foot, while ambient wild yeasts present on grape skins initiated spontaneous fermentation in clay jars, stone basins, or wooden vessels. Wines were commonly stored in containers sealed with resin or wax to aid preservation and were sometimes infused with herbs, honey, or spices to enhance their flavor. While wine in ancient Egyptian and Persian societies was typically reserved for religious ceremonies and elite banquets, the Greeks and Romans incorporated it into everyday life, often diluting it with water before consumption.

Ancient wine’s legacy in modern winemaking. Although modern technology has transformed wine production, many primordial methods survive today. Amphora fermentation, minimal-intervention practices, and Georgia’s qvevri tradition continue to heavily influence contemporary boutique wine producers around the world. These enduring techniques remind us that wine is not merely an agricultural product but also a living connection to history, culture, and human ingenuity.

The intertwined wine histories of Greece and Cyprus.

The history of wine is not a collection of isolated stories, but a grand mosaic assembled across the Mediterranean. Nowhere is this truer than in Greece and Cyprus, whose wine worlds are among the most closely intertwined. Rather than developing independently, the two regions evolved through centuries of maritime trade, cultural exchange, religious connections, and shared viticultural and winemaking knowledge. Together, they represent one of the world’s oldest continuous wine civilizations.

Ancient Eastern Mediterranean foundations. This relationship dates back over 4,000 years. Archaeological evidence shows organized wine production in Cyprus by 2000 BCE, coinciding with the period in which the Minoan and Mycenaean civilizations were developing sophisticated agricultural systems and viticultural practices (what we now recognize as the foundations of Greek wine culture), as well as maritime trade networks in the Aegean. Strategically positioned between Greece, the Levant, and Egypt, Cyprus became a pivotal commercial intermediary, facilitating the exchange of goods, technologies (e.g. ceramic amphorae production technology used in transport and storage of wine), and winemaking knowledge.

Wine, ritual, and the Greek world. By the late Bronze Age and early Iron Age (c. 1100 BCE), sustained maritime contact had linked Cypriot and Greek societies, and by the 8th century BCE, wine was central to Greek ritual, philosophy, and social life. Cypriot sweet wines called Nama were highly esteemed—praised by authors like Hesiod and Euripides—and are considered precursors to modern Commandaria.

Greek colonization between the 8th and 4th centuries BCE further strengthened cultural ties between Greece and Cyprus, embedding Greek language, religion, and customs into Cypriot society. Wine played a central role in this exchange, particularly through the cult of Dionysus—the god of wine, fertility, and celebration—and the symposium, an elite gathering where wine accompanied poetry, philosophical discussion, and social bonding.

Empires, Christianity, and continuity. After Alexander the Great’s conquests, Cyprus became fully integrated into the Hellenistic world, participating in a large, organized maritime wine trade exemplified by the Kyrenia shipwreck loaded with amphorae. Under the Roman and Byzantine empires, Christianity strengthened wine’s religious and economic importance, with monasteries preserving vineyards and indigenous grapes through centuries of instability. Throughout these eras, wine served as both a major trade commodity and a symbol of cultural continuity linking Greeks and Cypriots. Cyprus became especially known for its concentrated, long‑lasting sweet wines, prized across the Mediterranean for their stability and suitability for long‑distance transport.

Commandaria and the Medieval Mediterranean. In 1191 King Richard I of England conquered Cyprus while on route to the Holy Land and famously praised its sweet wine as “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” Under Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries, this wine was rebranded as Commandaria, named after the crusader commandery at Kolossi Castle, and became one of Europe’s most sought-after luxury exports. While uniquely Cypriot, its production closely mirrored the ancient Greek liastos technique of sun-drying grapes. Wine production declined significantly after Cyprus and Greece were incorporated into the Ottoman Empire from the 15th century onward, due to heavy taxation and restrictions on alcohol consumption.Despite this obstacle, isolated villages and resilient Orthodox monasteries successfully preserved these viticultural traditions.

Indigenous grapes and a modern renaissance. Greece and Cyprus share deep genetic and cultural ties in their grape varieties. Cypriot Mavro shares ancestral roots with  the Greek Mavroudi, while Cyprus white variety Xynisteri shows stylistic and structural parallels to Greek Aegean whites like Assyrtiko. Both countries are now experiencing a quality focused renaissance centered on indigenous grapes, terroir expression, and lower yields and terroir-driven winemaking.

Greece has gained international recognition for grapes such as Assyrtiko and Xinomavro, while Cyprus holds a unique advantage: its vineyards remain phylloxera free, allowing ancient, ungrafted vines to survive on original rootstocks. Modern producers in both regions are reviving historic varieties and adapting them to climate challenges, continuing one of the world’s oldest continuous wine cultures. Modern Greek and Cypriot wines are undergoing a major revival driven by improved viticulture and winemaking, renewed interest in regional identity, and collaboration between producers. Winemakers are focusing on indigenous grape varieties that naturally withstand hot, dry climates and climate‑change pressures. Rather than creating something new, this movement represents a modern continuation of ancient traditions, helping preserve one of the world’s oldest interconnected viticultural civilizations.

  1. Contemporary wines of Greece and Cyprus

Today, both countries are experiencing a remarkable wine renaissance driven by technological modernization and a new generation of producers. From the volcanic vineyards of the Aegean to the sun-drenched mountains of Cyprus, winemakers are transforming these ancient landscapes into some of the modern wine world’s most compelling destinations. The indigenous grape varieties form the foundation of both countries’ wine industries, while international grapes remain limited to blending roles.

Today, the wines of Greece and Cyprus compete confidently on the world stage while offering distinctive expressions rooted in indigenous grape varieties, unique terroirs, and uninterrupted viticultural traditions. What makes these wines particularly compelling is their profound sense of place: saline whites shaped by volcanic islands, mountain-grown reds infused with herbal and earthy complexity, and sweet wines whose origins stretch back to antiquity. As a result, Greece and Cyprus are among the world’s most exciting wine regions, offering authenticity, originality, and a living connection to one of humanity’s oldest wine cultures.\

 

Hellenic Republic (Greece)

Greece’s wine industry is defined by its exceptional diversity, with over 300 indigenous grape varieties spread across volcanic islands, mountains, and varied terroirs. About 90% of its 64,000 hectares of vineyards are planted with native grapes. White wines make up 65% of production, led by Assyrtiko, Savatiano, Roditis, and Muscat of Hamburg, while key red varieties include Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, and Liatiko.

Although small globally, Greece produces 1.5–2.5 million hectoliters annually and is increasingly focused on premium, terroir‑driven wines—especially from Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, and Agiorgitiko. Most Greek wine (~90%) is consumed domestically, so exports remain limited, representing only 0.3% of global wine exports. Of Greece’s roughly 1,500 wineries, about 200 export, with the EU accounting for 55% of export value and the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. serving as key growth markets.

Wine quality is regulated under the EU’s PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) systems. Greece’s 33-PDO zones represent its historical, high-quality appellations, which mandate the use of native grapes.  Although overall production has declined in recent years due to vineyard abandonment and climate pressures, the proportion of PDO- and PGI-designated wines continues to rise, currently accounting for roughly 37% of total wine production (see previous blogs for more details).

Republic of Cyprus

Cyprus and Greece share deep cultural, religious, linguistic, and historical ties. Approximately 78% of Cyprus’s population of 1.1 million is Greek Cypriot, and the majority adheres to the Greek Orthodox faith. Despite these close connections, Cyprus has always remained a distinct political entity and has never been part of the modern Greek state. Since 1974, the island has been divided between the internationally recognized Republic of Cyprus in the south and the Turkish-controlled north, separated by a United Nations buffer zone known as the Green Line. The division followed a coup aimed at unification with Greece and a subsequent Turkish military intervention. The self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, established in 1983, is recognized only by Turkey. Greek and Turkish are the island’s official languages, and strong educational and cultural exchanges continue between Cyprus and Greece, including the attendance of many Cypriot students at Greek universities. Cyprus remained under Ottoman rule for more than three centuries before becoming a British colony in 1914, gaining independence in 1960, and joining the EU in 2004. Today, Cyprus combines Mediterranean traditions, European institutions, and a resilient national identity that continues to shape its culture, cuisine, and wine.

Cyprus wine production. Cyprus’s 5,000‑year wine tradition has undergone a major modern revival after a long period of decline in the 20th century. Vineyard area has shrunk to about 7,000 hectares, but nearly 90% is now planted with indigenous grapes, and around 50 small wineries are leading a shift from bulk production to premium, terroir‑driven wines. The country’s wine renaissance is driven by several factors: i) a focus on quality over quantity, ii) renewed commitment to native, phylloxera‑free varieties, iii) high‑altitude viticulture (400–1,500 m), iv) ungrafted old vines, providing pure expressions of terroir; and v) experimental winemaking, blending ancient techniques (amphora, foot‑treading, skin contact) with modern minimal‑intervention winemaking.

Cyprus produces about 108,000 hectoliters (14.4 million bottles) annually, with 55–60% white and rosé and 40–45% red. Key indigenous grapes include Xynisteri, Promara, and Spourtiko for whites, and Maratheftiko, Mavro, and Yiannoudi for reds. Xynisteri and Mavro dominate plantings and are central to producing Commandaria, the island’s iconic fortified sweet wine.

Cyprus’s modern wine classification system, created in 2007 under EU regulation and the Cypriot Wine Products Council, includes 7 PDO zones and 4 broader PGI regions. The PDOs highlight the island’s most distinctive terroirs: Commandaria (historic sweet wine from 14 villages in the Troodos Mountains); Krasochoria Lemesou with its two sub‑zones Afames and Laona; Laona‑Akamas in northwest Paphos; Vouni Panayia‑Ampelitis in the high western mountains; and Pitsilia across the Madari–Papoutsa–Macheras peaks. The PGI regions correspond to the island’s administrative districts – Nicosia, Limassol, Larnaca, and Paphos – requiring at least 85% of grapes to come from the named district.

Wine grapes for this tasting

The White Grapes. Assyrtiko and Xynisteri rank among the region’s most distinctive and resilient indigenous white grape varieties within the broader context of Eastern Mediterranean viticulture. Both boast rare, ungrafted roots untouched by Phylloxera and both evolved under intense sunlight, limited rainfall, strong maritime influences, and rugged island landscapes, enabling them to retain freshness and balance despite extreme heat. Assyrtiko, cultivated primarily on Santorini, is renowned for its striking acidity, saline minerality, and aging potential. Its wines typically exhibit citrus, stone, smoke, and sea-spray characteristics shaped by the island’s volcanic soils and maritime climate. Xynisteri, Cyprus’s flagship white grape, thrives in high-altitude vineyards and produces fresh, aromatic wines marked by citrus blossom, orchard fruit, herbal notes, and a softer, more approachable texture. Although stylistically distinct, both varieties exemplify the defining qualities of Eastern Mediterranean island viticulture: resilience to heat and drought, a strong expression of terroir, and a deep connection to regional history.

The Red Grapes: Xinomavro and Maratheftiko are two of the most compelling expressions of the contemporary indigenous wine renaissance in Greece and Cyprus. Both varieties nearly disappeared during the 20th century due to low yields and demanding viticultural characteristics but, today, are widely regarded as the flagship age-worthy red grapes of their respective countries that express strong regional identity. Xinomavro, grown mainly in northern Greece, is known for high acidity, firm tannins, and long aging potential, with complex aromas of red fruit, tomato leaf, olive, herbs, and spice. Maratheftiko, Cyprus’s premier red grape, produces deeper‑colored, more fruit‑driven wines with blackberry, plum, violet, and pepper notes. It grows best at higher elevations and offers richness and freshness. Unusually, Maratheftiko only possesses functionally female flowers and requires pollination from nearby grape varieties (e.g. Spourtiko) to achieve reliable fruit set. As a result, the variety is difficult to cultivate and prone to low, unpredictable yields, but improved vineyard management and a better understanding of pollination and millerandage have since enabled its revival.

Once underappreciated and at risk of extinction, both grapes have become symbols of indigenous grape preservation and the growing international recognition of Eastern Mediterranean wines.

Commandaria wine: This wine is crafted exclusively from Cyprus’s indigenous Xynisteri and Mavro grape varieties grown within the Commandaria PDO, a designated region since 1973 comprising 14 specific villages on the southern foothills of the Troodos Mountains, where high‑altitude, terraced, unirrigated vineyards yield naturally low quantities of concentrated fruit. Annual production is small, typically 2,000–3,000 hectoliters. Commandaria is produced through a highly traditional method that is recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. It begins with overripening and sun‑drying Xynisteri and Mavro grapes, concentrating their sugars to very high levels. The slow, months‑long fermentation stops naturally at around 9.5% alcohol, after which the wine is fortified to 15–18% and aged in oak—often using the historic Manna (Solera‑style) system that blends younger wines with older reserves. The result is a richly sweet yet balanced wine with flavors of dried fruits, caramel, coffee, nuts, and warm spice. More than a dessert wine, Commandaria represents a living continuation of ancient Eastern Mediterranean winemaking and one of Cyprus’s most enduring cultural traditions.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Gavalas, ‘Santorini’, Santorini PDO, 2024

The producer: Based in the traditional village of Megalochori, Gavalas Winery pairs centuries of winemaking heritage with modern precision. From its founding until the 1920s, the family produced wine from its own vineyards to distribute locally and export to Alexandria, Egypt. By the 1930s, distribution expanded to Athens and Piraeus. In those early days, wine was transported from the island’s traditional kanavas (wine cellars) by mule in goatskin sacks, transferred into massive 600-kg barrels (called bombs) at the port of Fira, and shipped across the Aegean on small wooden boats (caiques). Today, with an annual production of approximately 80,000 bottles, Gavalas continues focusing on rare indigenous varieties that faithfully reflect Santorini’s distinctive character. Their portfolio features some of the island’s finest expressions of Assyrtiko, which accounts for approximately 70% of the winery’s 7.3 hectares vineyard within the Santorini PDO.

The wine: This spontaneously fermented white wine showcases the striking mineral intensity and vibrant acidity that define PDO Santorini wines. By letting the fruit and terroir to speak authentically, the natural fermentation process adds complexity and textural depth, beautifully reflecting both the pristine maritime influence of the Aegean and the Gavalas family’s commitment to expressing pure, unadulterated terroir in every bottle.

Vintage: 2024          Grape Variety: 100% Assyrtiko

Region/Appellation: Aegean Islands, Santorini PDO, Greece

Alcohol: 13,5% ABV

Viticulture: rooted in volcanic soils—composed of ash, pumice, lava, and basalt — the vines are cultivated using the traditional kouloura (basket) training method to protect them from fierce Aegean winds and intense summer sun.

Vinification: grapes are harvested from early to mid-August, and carefully placed in crates and baskets, never completely filled; after gentle pressing, only a portion of the juice (~25%) is selected and clarified at low temperatures before fermentation in stainless-steel tanks at approximately 18°C. Natural fermentation using indigenous yeasts.

Structure: Medium-bodied with a subtle creamy texture balanced by vibrant acidity and pronounced mineral character.

Tasting profile: A most distinctive, dry white wine, characterized by a pale yellow color. On the nose it displays delicate aromas of pear, lemon, pineapple, citrus blossom, and flinty minerality. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with a subtle creamy texture balanced by vibrant acidity and pronounced mineral character. Notes of citrus and orchard fruit are complemented by the saline freshness that has become a hallmark of Assyrtiko. The wine finishes long, crisp, and refreshing. It is best served chilled at 8-10°C. Its lively acidity and mineral backbone make it exceptionally versatile with food, pairing particularly well with seafood, sushi, fresh salads, goat cheese, or aromatic herb-forward dishes.

Wine #2. Makarounas, Aerides Xynisteri Pafos PGI, 2024

The producer: Founded in 2016 by Theodoros Makarounas after completing his studies in Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis, Makarounas Winery is a family-owned estate that has quickly become one of the leading voices in Cyprus’s modern wine renaissance. Located in the village of Letymbou, in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains within a region locals call the “Paphos vine-villages” due to its deeply rooted winemaking traditions. The family organically farms approximately 28 hectares of 100% ungrafted vineyards, primarily of indigenous Cypriot grape varieties—including Xynisteri, Maratheftiko, Spourtiko, Yiannoudi, Promara, and Vasilissa, planted on a complex mix of gypsum, limestone, and clay soils. Makarounas is one of the few wineries in Cyprus to produce wine exclusively from its privately owned estate vineyards, which allows complete control over vineyard management, and the production of highly distinctive, terroir-driven wines. They also supply high-quality fruit to several other notable Cypriot wineries.

The wine: While Xynisteri is often compared to Assyrtiko for its ability to retain freshness in warm climates, it offers a softer, more approachable profile characterized by elegance rather than power. The result is a balanced and highly drinkable wine that captures both the maritime influence and mountain freshness of western Cyprus. Organic, sustainable, and vegan.

Vintage: 2024

Grape Variety: 100% Xynisteri

Region/Appellation: Letymbou, Pafos– PGI, Cyprus

Viticulture: 100% ungrafted bush vines 20-90 years of age

Alcohol: 12% ABV

Winemaking: grapes undergo a short pre-fermentation maceration at low temperatures before spontaneous fermentation using indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. To build texture and complexity, the wine remains in contact with its fine lees for approximately 4 months, accompanied by twice-weekly battonage.

Structure: Xynisteri delivers a light-bodied profile defined by saline minerality and a citrus-driven tension that echoes both the power of Assyrtiko and the breezy ease of Vermentino.

Tasting profile: Characterized by a pale yellow in appearance, on the nose and palate this dry white wine is fresh, expressive, and beautifully balanced. It offers bright aromas of citrus and green apple, underpinned by subtle Mediterranean herbs and floral notes. Crisp and mineral-driven on the palate, combining bright acidity with a gentle saline character and a refined texture derived from extended lees contact, this elegant, refreshing vintage is highly versatile, pairing beautifully with fresh cheeses, a wide range of seafood dishes, and light Mediterranean cuisine.

Wine #3. Alpha Estate, ‘Hedgehog Vineyard’, Xinomavro, Amyndeon PDO, Greece, 2022

The producer: Founded in 1997 by viticulturist Makis Mavridis and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis, Alpha Estate is one of Greece’s most respected wineries and a leading producer in the Amyndeon PDO of northwestern Macedonia. The estate manages approximately 220 hectares of vineyards situated between 620 and 710 meters above sea level. The vineyards feature a highly uniform topography with gentle, northwest-facing slopes of 5% to 15%. As one of Greece’s coolest wine regions, Amyndeon is characterized by a semi-continental climate. Cold, snowy winters naturally supply the soil with enough water to sustain the vines through dry summers. Two nearby lakes buffer extreme weather. The soil consists of low-fertility, well-draining sandy-clay loam. A distinct limestone subsoil contains traces of ancient lakes, which impart signature minerality to the wines. Combined with precise vineyard management, these conditions are well suited to Xinomavro and yield well-structured, balanced wines with complex aromas and excellent finesse.

To preserve the grapes’ optimal organoleptic properties, harvesting occurs during the coolest hours of the day, and the fruit is moved using specialized refrigerated transport. The winery’s architectural design utilizes gravity-fed processing to minimize physical stress on the raw materials. The facility is constructed entirely from inert, neutral materials, ensuring a pristine internal environment that completely protects the quality of the grapes, must, and wine throughout production.

The wine:

Vintage: 2022

Grape Variety: 100% Xinomavro

Region/Appellation: Macedonia, Amyndeon – PDO, Greece

Alcohol: 14% ABV

Viticulture: “Hedgehog” Single Vineyard (69 hectares) is located at 690 m elevation with northern exposure overlooking Lake Petron. Vines density of 5,900 per hectare, and controlled yields of 0.9-1.1 kilograms per vine to maximize concentration and balance.

Vinification and aging: Minimal intervention winemaking practices that prioritize sustainability. Hand-harvested in mid-September, followed by destemming, gentle crushing, and a period of cold maceration before fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures. The wine remains on its lees for 8 months with regular stirring, then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels followed by 12 months of bottle maturation prior to release.

Structure: Medium to full-bodied, rounded tannins, balanced acidity and well integrated wood tones.

Tasting profile: Deep ruby-purple color, it reveals a complex, typical Xinomavro bouquet of red fruits, berries, dried herbs, leather and spices (vanilla, pepper, clove). Full mouth on the palate, combining vibrant acidity with polished tannins and seamlessly integrated oak. Long aftertaste marked by quince, spice, and mineral undertones. Elegant yet powerful, this wine offers a refined and contemporary expression of Xinomavro (a compelling example of modern Greek winemaking), will continue to gain complexity and nuance with additional bottle age. Best served at 16-18°C, it pairs beautifully with grilled red meats, lamb, and aged semi-hard cheeses.

Wine #4. Zambartas, Maratheftiko, Limassol PGI, Cyprus, 2023

The producer: Founded in 2006 by Akis Zambartas, Cyprus’s first university-trained oenologist, Zambartas Winery has played a pivotal role in the revival of the island’s indigenous grape varieties. Akis spent 35 years shaping the modern Cypriot wine industry, including serving as chief winemaker at KEO. His pioneering research in the 1980s identified and documented 13 largely forgotten native grape varieties, laying the foundation for their contemporary resurgence. In recognition of his enormous achievements, he was made a member of the Académie Internationale du Vin. In 2014, the winery passed to his son Marcos.

Today the family manages more than 27 hectares of vineyards (72% of which are certified organic) on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains, at elevations ranging from 600 to 1,000 meters. Farmed according to organic and sustainable principles, including careful water management, limited irrigation for young vines, and dry farming for established vineyards, these high-altitude vineyards benefit from cooler temperatures that help preserve freshness, balance, and aromatic complexity. It combines modern viticulture with traditional practices, including gobelet-trained vines in older vineyards. Biodiversity is encouraged through the preservation of natural habitats and the restoration of traditional stone terraces, creating a healthy vineyard ecosystem while preserving the region’s viticultural heritage. Producing approximately 150,000 bottles annually, the winery remains dedicated to authenticity, connection, and shared experiences around wine.

The wine:

Vintage: 2023

Grape Variety: 100% Maratheftiko

Region/Appellation: Limassol – PGI, Cyprus

Alcohol: 15% ABV

Viticulture: ungrafted, dry-farmed vines farmed according to organic and sustainable principles.

Vinification and aging: The grapes are hand-harvested and carefully sorted on the picking table to select the very best grapes before fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. The wine is then matured for 12 months in a combination of new and seasoned 400-liter French oak barrels, enhancing its bouquet and complexity, while preserving varietal character.

Structure: It’s a rich body, structured wine with depth, freshness, ripe silky tannins, layered dark fruit and a long lasting finish.

Tasting profile: This wine offers an expressive bouquet of black and red berries, rose petal, sweet spice, and the distinctive floral violet notes often associated with Maratheftiko, unusual for a grape grown in such a warm Mediterranean climate. On the palate, it is full-bodied yet balanced, combining ripe fruit with freshness, silky tannins, and well-integrated oak. Layers of blackberry, plum, and subtle savory notes lead to a long, persistent finish. It pairs beautifully with grilled lamb, pork, and beef, especially traditional souvla, the Cypriot and Greek method of slowly roasting large cuts of meat over charcoal. Powerful yet elegant, this Maratheftiko is a compelling expression of modern Cypriot winemaking and the ongoing renaissance of the island’s native grapes. While already approachable, the youthful 2023 vintage will benefit from decanting and has the structure to evolve gracefully over the next 7–8 years.

Wine #5. KEO, ‘St John’ Commandaria PDO, Cyprus

The producer: KEO is Cyprus’s most influential historic wine producer and one of the island’s most internationally recognized wineries. Founded in 1927, it played a central role in preserving and commercializing Cyprus’s traditional wines, especially Commandaria. The wine is a non-vintage, fortified dessert wine crafted from the indigenous varieties Mavro and Xynisteri grown on ungrafted, unirrigated bush vines in the volcanic soils of the Commandaria PDO region near Limassol. KEO produces more than 130,000 liters of St. John Commandaria annually. While the exact yield varies based on grape availability, the winery maintains a rolling stock of approximately 400,000 liters in its extensive, historic barrel vaults.

The wine: The winery’s flagship wine, St. John Commandaria PDO is made using a traditional process that embodies a viticultural continuity extending from classical antiquity into the present day. It is a contemporary expression of Cyprus’s ancient, fortified wine tradition. To pour a glass of this wine is to taste a living fragment of Mediterranean history.

Vintage: Non-Vintage.

Grape Variety: Mavro and Xynisteri

Region/Appellation: Limassol, Commandaria – PDO, Cyprus

Alcohol: 15% ABV

Viticulture: grapes from ungrafted, unirrigated bush vines with low yields.

Vinification: The overripe grapes are harvested at the beginning of September and laid out to sun-dry to concentrate their sugars and flavors. After pressing, the juice ferments naturally in traditional wooden vats.

Aging: In old oak barrels in climate controlled cellars for at least 2 years, that are never fully emptied, utilizing a fractional blending solera-like method that imparts extraordinary depth and longevity. Bottled at 15% ABV. This approach creates continuity between vintages and contributes to the wine’s remarkable complexity and virtually unlimited aging potential.

Structure: It’s full-bodied and richly textured. This wine has a long shelf life when sealed and can also be enjoyed for a long time when refrigerated after opening.

Tasting profile: A sweet wine with a deep amber hue and a powerful aromatic profile of dried fruits, mocha, roasted coffee and warm spices. On the full-bodied palate, with a rich, smooth texture it is enticingly sweet – but not cloying-, complex, delicate fruit notes of ripe dates with a hint of smokiness, a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity and a persistent, fresh, harmonious, and long-lasting finish. Pairs perfectly with robust blue cheese and with desserts (e.g. particularly those containing dark chocolate and nuts, fruit tarts, and traditional pastries like baklava). Is best served chilled, ideally between 12–14°C (54–57°F) or slightly cooler at (8–10°C (46–50°F) if preferred as a fresh, pre-dinner aperitif.

6. CV Members Rating
The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices. 17 participants rated the first four wines tasted individually from Good to Excellent. The combined scores determined the ranking order as shown in the following Table.

In the final results, Zambartas, Maratheftiko, Limassol PGI, 2023 was the Best Wine and Alpha Estate ‘Hedgehog Vineyard’ Xinomavro, Amyndeon PDO, 2022 was the Best Buy.

Although not rated by most participants, the dessert wine Keo St. John Commandaria was highly appreciated by the group.

References

Early Neolithic wine of Georgia in the South Caucasus, Nov. 13, 2017

https://clubvino1.com/2025/10/20/tasting-282-october-28-2025-wines-from-greece/

https://clubvino1.com/2015/09/04/tasting-no-170

https://clubvino1.com/156-june-30-2014-wines-from-greece

https://clubvino1.com/2011/10/07

https://web.cocc.edu/cagatucci/classes/hum213/Maps/Maps2HistoryAncient.htm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Mediterranean_region

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_culture

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caucasus

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertile_Crescent

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cypriot_wine

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commandaria

https://www.worldhistory.org/uploads/images/14421.png?v=1777804408-1777804438

https://nuttersworld.com/ancient-trade-routes-mediterranean-sea/ancient-maritime-trade-routes-mediterranean-sea/

https://winesofgreece.org/

https://www.seaop.gr/en/

https://www.guildsomm.com/public_content/features/articles/b/demetri-walters/posts/the-rise-of-cypriot-wine

https://v1.vinous.com/articles/greece-from-ancient-roots-to-modern-glory-dec-2025

https://www.winebow.com/knowledge/wine/greece

https://wineguide.wein.plus/wine-regions/cyprus /

https://magazine.wein.plus/cyprus-treasure-island

https://glossary.wein.plus/commandaria

https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/commandaria-wine-02288

https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/oldest-manufactured-wine

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Laughing matter:

 

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Tasting No 289 – May 26, 2026 – Israeli Wines

Posted on May 23, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 289 – May 26, 2026

A Survey of Israeli Wines

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore wines from Israel.  We will taste wines from different regions of the country.  This is an open tasting.

Presenters:  Yacsire Cutler, Orlando Mason and Rene Gutierrez

Participants:  R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; G. García; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; A. and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; C. Santelices; G. Smart; and L. Uechi.

These are the wines

  1. Golan Heights, ‘Yarden’ Chardonnay, Galilee, 2024
  2. 1848, ‘Second Generation’ Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot, Galilee, 2024
  3. Carmel, ‘Appelation’ Cabernet-Shiraz, Galilee, 2020
  4. Recanati, ‘David Vineyard Reserve’, Cabernet Sauvignon, Galilee, 2023

The Menu

  • Mussels in white wine
  • Mushroom ravioli
  • Lamb shops with roasted potatoes and vegetables
  • Cheese platter, Coffee, Tea

  1. Brief History of wine growing in Israel

Wine has a long and deep history in what is now Israel—going back to biblical times.   Its significance links religion, agriculture and trade.

Archaeological evidence shows winemaking in the region as early as 3000–4000 BCE. Grapes thrived in the Mediterranean climate, and wine became a staple of daily life and ritual. By the time of the kingdoms of Israel and Judah (around 1000 BCE), viticulture was widespread, with wine presses carved into rock and large storage jars used for distribution.   Under successive empires, especially the Roman Empire, the region became a significant wine exporter. “Gaza wine” from the southern coast was famous across the Mediterranean. During the Byzantine period (4th–7th centuries CE), production expanded further, driven partly by Christian demand for sacramental wine.  After the Muslim conquest, wine production declined significantly. Viticulture didn’t disappear entirely—grapes were still grown for food (raisins, juice), and some wine was produced for minority communities (Jewish and Christian).

Modern Israeli winemaking began in the late 1800s, largely thanks to Baron Edmond de Rothschild. He funded vineyards and wineries, most notably the establishment of Carmel Winery in 1882. His efforts introduced European grape varieties and modern techniques, laying the foundation for a commercial wine industry. Still in operation today, Carmel is the largest producer of Israeli wine and has been at the forefront of many technical and historical advances in both winemaking and Israeli history.

In the early 20th Century  the wine industry remained relatively small and focused mostly on sweet sacramental wines for religious use. A major shift began in the 1980s, when wineries adopted modern technology and global winemaking practices. The founding of Golan Heights Winery in 1983 was a turning point, emphasizing quality, terroir, and international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The wine industry of Israel is still building out its own regulations and regional identities. Therefore, the official wine regions (like an AVA or AOC) are still being adjusted and developed. There are now more than 300 wineries across different regions, producing a combined 40 million bottles a year.  The U.S. is the recipient of a majority of the country’s wine exports (55%).  Israeli wines now compete internationally and have won major awards, reflecting a blend of ancient tradition and modern innovation.

Kosher Wine. The demand for kosher wines throughout the world, particularly in the US, has underpinned the development of the Israeli wine industry over the past few decades, bringing some very New World styles and techniques to this definitively Old World country. Not all wine made in Israel is kosher, however. Modern Orthodox Jews believe that to be considered truly kosher, various products (wine and dairy among them) should be prepared only by Jews. Some Jews consider non-Jewish wine (known as “yayin nasekh”) to be kosher if it has been heated, the reason being that heated wine was not used as a religious libation in Biblical times, and its consumption is therefore not sacrilegious.

  1. Regions of production

Many parts of the country are too hot and dry to reliably produce wine of high quality. But various areas have more suitable microclimates, and are either well established or showing promise. The major winemaking zones based on key differences in soils, topography and climate are:

Galilee (HaGalil) – In the north, is considered the region most suited for viticulture. The Galilee benefits from higher elevations, cooler temperatures, marked day and night temperatures and volcanic soils.  The cooler climate helps grapes ripen slowly, preserving acidity and complexity. Noted for elegant, structured reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Syrah), and fresh whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay.) Galilee wines tend to show cool-climate balance, acidity, and layered fruit, thanks to elevation and volcanic/limestone soils.

It includes the Golan Heights, in the northeast corner, sits at some of the highest vineyard elevations in Israel. Volcanic basalt soils and snowy winters (rare in Israel) give wines a more “Old World” feel.  Noted for high-end reds, crisp whites, and even sparkling wines.  The cool climate and basalt soils contribute to wines with deep minerality and slow, even ripening.

Judean Hills – Located between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, this region terrain is characterized by rocky hills, limestone soils, high elevations. Vineyards are planted on terra rossa over limestome.  The climate features warm days and cool nights, ideal for red-Bordeaux style blends.  Noted for balanced, terroir-driven wines; both reds and whites. It is home to many boutique wineries pushing quality forward. This region accounts for about 27% of the country’s wine production.

Samson (Shomron) Region – Stretching along the coastal plain and inland foothills, the Samson region is one of the country’s largest production zones. The climate is warmer and more humid than hill regions.  Noted for fruit-forward, approachable wines.  It’s a major contributor to volume production rather than premium boutique wines.

Negev Desert – The Negev showcases modern irrigation and ancient ingenuity. Drip irrigation has made wine growing pssible combined with the revival of ancient desert viticulture techniques.  Hot days and very cool nights.  Noted for surprisingly fresh wines with good acidity.

Carmel Mountain Range – Near the Mediterranean coast, the Mount Carmel area has historic importance in Israeli winemaking, being one of the earliest modern vineyard areas (19th century revival) . This region blends history with Mediterranean style, often producing approachable wines and rediscovering older grape varieties. Noted for both everyday and higher-end wines.

 Coastal Plain – Running along the Mediterranean, the Coastal Plain includes lower-lying vineyards. The climate is hot and humid. Modern vineyards are often located in cooler microclimates.  Noted for simpler wines, often used for blends or mass production.  It account ts for about 15% of the country’s wine.

  1. Climate and grape varieties grown

Israel has a distinctly Mediterranean climate. There are two primary seasons – a hot, humid summer season running from April to October with very little precipitation and a cold, rainy winter season from late October to March. With a dry growing season, drip irrigation is needed.  Vineyard managers utilize pruning and canopy management techniques to maximize shade production from the sunlight. Harvest often takes place during the cooler temperatures of night time. The dryness of the growing seasons serves a protective barrier to many grape diseases  that thrive in damp weather and allows vineyard managers to control vigor and yields with by irrigation.

Israel grows a mix of imported grapes and a small but growing set of indigenous varieties that are being rediscovered. The combination is part of what makes Israeli wine distinctive, together with the climate diversity, high UV plus dry conditions and the use of many grape varieties

Imported grapes dominate most vineyards.  Red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache.  White grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Viognier.  The following Mediterranean varieties are gaining popularity because they suit Israel’s heat: Carignan, Mourvèdre, Marselan (modern cross- Cabernet x Grenache), and Argaman (Israeli-developed red grape-Carignan × Souzao.)  There is also a movement reviving the use of  indigenous/ancient red and white grapes with roots going back centuries, such as Baladi Asmar, Bittuni, Dabouki, Hamdani/Marawi, and Jandali.

A primary concern in Israeli wine production is maintaining acid levels to balance the naturally high sugars that the warm climate of the region produces. Vineyards at higher elevations, as opposed to the lower coastal plains, have more consistently produced wines with the necessary acid balance. Cabernet Sauvignon has shown the greatest aging potential thus far. The smooth texture and ripe tannins of Israeli Merlot has increased that wine’s popularity in the market. Chardonnay grown in Israel has shown itself to be highly reflective of terroir and of the particular characteristics of vineyard soils. It is also the primary grape used in Israeli sparkling wine production made according to the “methode champenoise.”

 

  1. Information on the Wines

–Wine # 1.  Golan Heights, ‘Yarden’ Chardonnay, Galilee, 2024

The Producer: The Golan Heigths Winery was established in 1983 and produces four labels with a range of varieties and styles: Yarden, Gamla, Hermon and Golan.  The Winery maintains about 630 hectares of grape-yielding vineyards. It has planted some 20 varieties of grapes in 28 vineyards divided into roughly 450 blocks, at elevations ranging from 400 to almost 1,200 meters. Each vineyard block is mapped and cataloged, with constant monitoring of its various parameters including soil conductivity, growth, water condition in the vine, and more. The blocks are harvested separately, and their wines are stored separately in stainless steel tanks in order to maintain their identity and uniqueness until final blending.  From this large selection of small blocks, winemakers can choose the most appropriate blocks for the relevant wine. Single-vineyard wines are produced only in vintages in which grape quality is exceptional and the vineyard’s terroir is clearly expressed in the wine.

Golan Heights Winery and its subsidiary Galil Mountain Winery both received the first international certification for sustainable vineyards under the LODI RULES program, which is considered meticulous and comprehensive.

The Wine: A well-balanced, complex Chardonnay with ripe pear, apple, pineapple and citrus fruit notes layered with oak and vanilla characters; rich and buttery with a long finish.

Vintage: 2024

Region: Galilee / Golan Heights, known for volcanic terroir; elevation 3,900 feet.

Grape: 100% Chardonay

Winemaking: Barrel fermented and aged for seven months with partial malolactic fermentation.

ABV: 14.5%

Tasting notes: Fresh lemon, ripe pear, green apple, and tropical fruits. Finish is rounded out by notes of apricot, cream, and French oak.

Pairings: Complements grilled chicken, seafood dishes, and creamy  dishes.

–Wine # 2. 1848, ‘Second Generation’, Cabernet-Merlot, Galilee, 2024

The Producer: 1848 Winery is named to honor the beginning of modern winemaking in Israel by its parent Zion Winery in 1848. 1848 Winery celebrates the generations of the Galina-Shor family. It took eight generations to have a first quality wine that is well known in the region as well as the world. From the first generation that purchased grapes from the local market and made wine that were sold in small barrels. Nearly all the wines were sweet. The first evidence of the new family profession was shown in the census commissioned by Moses Montefiore in 1849. The eighth Generation under Yossi Shor founded the 1848 Winery in 2006, which became recognized for high quality in international markets. He invested in quality vineyards in the finest wine growing regions, in particular the Galilee and Judean Hills. They began aiming for quality at all costs, updated winery equipment to state of the art levels, and employed a French born, Bordeaux trained winemaker.  The quality wines won awards and recognition on the  international stage. The 1848 wines have gained the respect of wine lovers and connoisseurs alike, both in Israel and around the world.

The Wine:

Vintage: 2024

Region: Galilee, grapes from the Galil and the Jerusalem Hills.

Grape composition. Cabernet Sauvignon 60% and Merlot 40%

Vinification: The grapes come to the winery in the early morning and transferred from the crusher into refrigerated stainless steel tanks. After a short maceration keeping the grape juice on its lees, the fresh grape juice was separated and  fermented in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 23 degrees Celsius, in order to preserve the fresh fruit flavors.

Aging: Aged in European oak barrels for 10 months. After this period the final blend was made, emphasizing the velvetiness of the Merlot.

Alcohol: 14%

Tasting notes: Nose – blackcurrant and plum red fruit, green pepper, blackberries and vanilla and tobacco in the background; Mouth – full fruit flavor and long finish; Color – Deep red crimson color with bright purple hues. The wine has freshness and balance, medium body and a long, complex finish.

Pairing: Pasta Bolognese, sausages, blue cheese.

–Wine # 3.  Carmel, ‘Appellation’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Galilee, 2020

The Producer: Carmel Winery is a historic wine producer that was founded in 1882 by Baron Edmond James de Rothchild. Carmel Winery manufactures mainly wine, brandy and grape juice and it is the prime producer of wine in Israel, with nearly half of the Israeli wine market share, and one of the largest wine producers in the Eastern Mediterranean.  It is also the first and oldest exporter of wine, brandy and grape juice in the country, and the largest producer of kosher wine in the world. The company holds the two largest wineries in Israel (Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov), as well as two new smaller ones: Yatir Winery (50% ownership) and the Kayoumi Winery.  In addition, the company owns 1,400 hectares (3,472 acres) of vineyards in Israel. Carmel’s production reaches 15 million bottles per year and its profit from export is US$5 million from 40 countries.

The Wine: Part of the ‘Appellation’ Regional Series representing the best vineyard regions of Israel. Wines of this series are produced from classic grape varieties harvested in vineyards from selected wine regions. This wine is a dry red blend, primarily produced from grapes grown in the Upper Galilee region and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. It is known for a full-bodied, deep purple profile featuring blackberry, dark plum, spice, and chocolate notes.

Vintage: 2020

Region: Upper Galilee, Israel

Grape composition: Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz

Aging: 12 months in French oak barrels

Alcohol: 14%–15% ABV

Flavor Profile: Full-bodied, featuring blackberry, black pepper, spice, and oaky notes

Pairing: Pairs well with grilled meats, hearty stews, and roasted vegetables

–Wine # 4. Recanati, ‘David Vineyard Reserve’, Cabernet Sauvignon, Galilee, 2023

Producer: Recanati Winery was founded in 2000 and it produces young red and white blends under its ‘Yasmin’ label, single varietals under its ‘Recanati’ and ‘Reserve’ labels, and a ‘Special Reserve’. All grapes are hand-harvested, two-thirds originating in Recanati’s high-altitude Manara vineyards in the Upper Galilee and the remainder from vineyards planted in the clay-rich soil of the Jezreel Valley. The newly built Recanati winery, opened in 2022, obtains its grapes from some of the area’s high-altitude vineyards, which enjoy a climate similar to that of California’s Napa Valley. Warm days and contrastingly cool nights, together with chalky-gravelly soil conditions and limited rainfall, create an ideal environment for this variety.

The Wine: Summary: Red wine from Israel’s Upper Galilee region. It is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon known for a full-bodied profile with notes of plum, raspberry, black cherry, and spices.

Vintage: 2023

Region: David’s Vineyard, Upper Galilee, Israel

Variety: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Vinification:  Grapes are harvested by hand from late September through mid-October. Immediately following the crush, the must is chilled to 60ºF in route to fermentation vats.

Aging: 15 months in French oak

Alcohol: 14% ABV

Tasting Notes: Color is vibrant violet; aromas of ripe black cherry.

Pairing: Pairs well with grilled meats, roasts, and hard cheeses.

The wine is considered to have a good aging potential, capable of lasting a decade or more.

CV Members Rating (TBA after the tasting)

The wine tasting was conducted blind, with prices revealed only after all evaluations were completed. Twelve participants rated each wine individually on a scale from Good to Excellent. The combined scores determined the final ranking shown in the table below.

In the overall results, 1848 ‘Second Generation’ Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot, Galilee, 2024 earned the highest score, making it both the Best Wine and the Best Buy of the tasting.

References:

https://www.golanwines.co.il/

https://1848.co.il/

https://www.carmelwines.co.il/

https://www.recanati-winery.com

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

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American Wine on a Precipice

Posted on April 30, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

   50 Years After the ‘Judgment of Paris,’ American Wine Is Once Again on a Precipice

Illustration by Chris W. Kim

In 2011, clubvino1.com featured a post about the film Bottle Shock, including a link to the full movie on YouTube. This film offers an entertaining and insightful look at how the historic “Judgment of Paris” unfolded. The post also highlighted another classic, Sideways, which—according to wine folklore—contributed to the sudden decline in Merlot consumption.

No wine education can truly be considered complete without watching these two films with full attention. And did I mention they’re both genuinely funny?

Our former Club del Vino President Juan Luis Colaiacovo shared this interesting article on the trajectory of the wines of California. After the abstract the full article for your enjoyment.

 

Abstract: The Legacy and Future of the Judgment of Paris

The 1976 Judgment of Paris stands as a pivotal moment in viticultural history, where California wines unexpectedly triumphed over prestigious French labels in a blind tasting. This event dismantled the myth of European superiority, providing the Napa Valley and the broader American wine industry with the credibility and identity needed to spark a decades-long “golden age.”

Fifty years later, the industry faces a new, more complex set of challenges. While the 20th century was defined by a rivalry with the “Old World,” today’s winemakers must navigate:

  • Economic Volatility: Oversupply issues leading to the removal of thousands of acres of vines.
  • Shifting Consumer Habits: Increased competition from non-alcoholic beverages and a move away from the “bigger is better” (high-alcohol, oak-heavy) style of the Robert Parker era.
  • External Pressures: Climate change, tariff wars, and geopolitical instability.

A “1976 Redo” tasting held in March 2026 underscored a shift toward independent, small-scale producers favoring a “less is more” approach. The results mirrored the original event—American wines won three out of four categories—highlighting the continued excellence of domestic viticulture. As the industry reflects on its 50th anniversary, it stands at a critical inflection point: the need to return to the innovation and convention-challenging mindset of 1976 to ensure relevance in an increasingly perilous global market.

 50 Years After the ‘Judgment of Paris,’ American Wine Is Once Again on a Precipice

By Christina Pickard               Wine Enthusiast Magazine       April 2026

 

In the 1970s, French wines were revered in America, but only by an elite few. This same class of wine lovers also considered their homegrown offerings to be something of a joke.

Then, on May 24th 1976, a blind tasting competition in France dubbed “The Judgment of Paris” pitted northern Californian wines against French equivalents. California triumphed, propelling the wines, their producers, and Napa Valley onto the world wine stage, while proving to both global critics and domestic drinkers alike that the United States was capable of fine wine greatness.

The event kickstarted a golden age of vine plantings and wine-growing in California, reviving an industry that had for decades struggled to recover from the blows of early 20th-century recession, war, and Prohibition.

“[The Judgment] opened the door for great wine to be from anywhere,” says Jon Bonné, author of The New French Wine and The New California Wine.

50 years later, California—and American wine in general—face a new set of challenges that are far more complicated than a rivalry between “Old World” and “New World.”

A half century on from the tasting that changed the fate of American wine, the industry is primed for a new kind of judgment, one that, however it shakes out, will once again determine the future of homegrown wine.

Just like five decades ago, many of California’s winemakers are struggling to get their wines into Americans’ glasses. The oversupply in 2024-25 led to nearly 40,000 acres of California’s vines being ripped out. 3,000 of these acres were in Napa, equating to 7% of the region’s total plantings, according to a recent study.

Climate change, tariff wars, health debates, and geopolitical instability all contribute to today’s perfect storm. And as beverage choices increase, the competition is no longer just between Europe and the nations it colonized. Instead, it’s between wine and other alcoholic drinks (not to mention the N/A ones). The sandbox has never been more crowded.

Meanwhile, the sheer diversity of wine styles and overall quality have never been greater.

“If I sit down at a wine bar in San Francisco, I can choose between biodynamic Bordeaux pét-nat made in Libourne, and qvevri-macerated Friulano from the Sierra Foothills,” says Bonné. “I’d say we have moved into a very different and more interesting world.”

The world may be more interesting, but also more perilous. A half century on from the tasting that changed the fate of American wine, the industry is primed for a new kind of judgment, one that, however it shakes out, will once again determine the future of homegrown wine.

A 20th-Century Reckoning

In the years leading up to 1976, California was still struggling to re-establish its wine industry after Prohibition had decimated it.

“The American wine business in the 1950s was literally dying in the vine. The number of California wineries fell by more than one third between 1950 and 1967,” George M. Taber wrote in his 2005 book, Judgment of Paris. (Taber, in fact, was the sole journalist present at the Judgment tasting.) “Only a very small part of the population drank wine with meals, and when they wanted good wine, they looked to France.”

1976 marked America’s bicentennial anniversary. It was the year Jimmy Carter was elected president, and Barbara Walters became the first female anchorwoman for an evening news program. Steve Jobs founded Apple, Bill Gates founded Microsoft just the year prior, and American consumerism charged forth.

“As the U.S. started to become ‘the great consumer,’ we began to latch onto wine,” says Patrick Cappiello, the winemaker-owner of Monte Rio Cellars in Sonoma County and a former New York sommelier. “We followed the lead of the British, and so Bordeaux was one of the first and most important regions [for Americans]. Burgundy followed on.”

Viticultural and winemaking techniques had been quietly improving throughout the 1950s and ‘60s, with help from the Department of Viticulture and Enology at University of California Davis. Technological advancements like controlled malolactic fermentation and micro-filtration were actually ahead of the French, according to Taber. By 1976, there were around 100 wineries established in Napa Valley. Word was out—albeit only at a whisper—that the Californians were making some pretty decent wine.

Enter Steven Spurrier, an English wine merchant and owner of the English-speaking Parisian wine school, Académie Du Vin, and his trusty right-hand woman, American Patricia Gallagher. The pair decided to stir up business by hosting a blind tasting between the two nations, timed with the bicentennial anniversary. Spurrier travelled to California to choose the six Chardonnays and six Cabernet Sauvignons from 11 boutique producers that French judges would blind-taste beside top Bordeaux wines from the likes of Château Mouton-Rothschild and Château Haut-Brion.

California won.

Taber released a Time article a few weeks later announcing America’s triumph over its French counterparts. He titled it “The Judgment of Paris,” a nod to the Greek mythological event that sparked The Trojan War. The name stuck and the two California wineries whose wines won—Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon (only their second and first releases, respectively)—became overnight successes. So did other high-ranking California wineries like Ridge Vineyards and Spring Mountain Vineyard. In fact, all of Napa rode the wave.

“It is no coincidence that the first vintage of ‘Opus One,’ the Napa Valley joint venture between Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi, was 1979, just three years later,” Spurrier himself wrote in a September 2020 article on the Académie du Vin Library website, just six months before his death in 2021.

“[The Judgement] gave Napa Valley real direction, including us,” says Marcus Notaro, Stag’s Leap’s current head winemaker. “Where are we going to be most successful? In Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. It gave us identity, direction, and confidence that we were on the right track.”

Matthew Crafton, the current head winemaker and president at Chateau Montelena, agrees: “It gave credibility to a region that hadn’t yet earned it in the eyes of the world and opened the door for American wines to be considered among the best anywhere.”

The Judgment was a perfect storm. It reset the tumblers at a moment when the French had let down their guard, the Californians were surging, and Americans still viewed France as a gastronomic north star. So that set the conditions for homegrown wines to find their market.

Jon bonné, author of The New French Wine and The New California Wine.

France, of course, had been making wine since the Greek and Roman times, with the transition from shed to chateau taking place in the 19th century. But the ‘70s were tough times, especially for Bordeaux: overproduction, poor vintage conditions, and a general complacency, according to Bonné, led to a decline in quality, while California’s star was rising.

“The sheer talent and quality of that era [in California] was extraordinary, while Bordeaux, especially, had fallen into a deep decline in the 1970s,” he says. “The Judgment was a perfect storm. It reset the tumblers at a moment when the French had let down their guard, the Californians were surging, and Americans still viewed France as a gastronomic north star. So that set the conditions for homegrown wines to find their market.”

The following five decades saw massive transformation for California, especially for Napa, which, post-Judgment, firmly established itself as America’s vinous center of gravity: an industry with a $13 billion economic impact.

“The lines have shifted so much, and been reset so much, since [1976],” says Bonné.

A Modern Day Rematch

It was while watching the 2008 Hollywood movie that fictionalized the Judgment, Bottle Shock, that Patrick Cappiello came up with the idea for a “1976 Redo” tasting.

Cappiello hoped the event could bring attention to small, independent American producers, many of whom currently face a similar challenge to the one 50 years ago—many Americans still believe European wines are superior to homegrown ones.

He also had another motive, which was to showcase a new wave of Californian wines—those made closer to the style of those in the 1970s.

“As a U.S. winemaker, you have to jump over [the Euro-centric] hurdle, which is hard enough,” says Cappiello. “But then there’s an even bigger, dumber hurdle which is the fact that the production of wine in California—especially in Napa Valley—for around three decades experienced the Robert Parker effect.”

The “bigger is better” influence of critics like Robert Parker and of recently deceased global wine consultant Michel Rolland—who pushed both Napa and Bordeaux into making riper, oakier, more alcoholic wines—lingers in California.

For the last several years, Cappiello has made it his mission to encourage people to buy American-made wines, particularly those from small producers making “pre-Parker” wines.

“There are less and less of these big brands that produce oversaturated, high alcohol, heavily oaked wines—they’re all falling out of favor,” Cappiello says.

“Those wineries are closing or they’re reducing stock or changing their methods to try and go back to an old style. It’s a conversation you hear in Napa all the time: ‘I want to go back to making wine the way they were doing it in the ‘70s.’”

It took Cappiello two years—and the help of wine professionals on both coasts, including winemaker Pax Mahle, media entrepreneur Josh Entman, author and sommelier Vanessa Price, and wine broker Ryan Mills Knapp—to make the “1976 Redo” tasting a reality. Cappiello decided to once again include Chardonnay and Cabernet, but two new varietal categories were added: Chenin Blanc and Syrah.

“We got hundreds of wineries and thousands of submissions for the first round of tasting,” says Cappiello, who did not include his Monte Rio wines in the lineup. Eight wine professionals whittled that down to five wines per category, to be judged in the final round against well-known French bottles.

There are really two paths forward. One is to remain dynamic, forward-looking, and willing to challenge convention—the same mindset that made the Judgment of Paris possible in the first place. The other is to become more static, more risk-averse, and ultimately less relevant over time. I’m optimistic because I think Napa, at its best, chooses the former. But that outcome isn’t guaranteed. Success is fragile, and it has to be earned continuously.

Matthew Crafton, head winemaker and president at Chateau Montelena

The Redo took place on March 24th 2026 in New York City, two months shy of the exact date of the original Judgment. Twelve judges from several sides of the wine industry—proctored by Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier—blind tasted the ten total wines from each category. Once again, an American wine placed first in all categories except Cabernet, where Bordeaux’s Château Latour 2017 triumphed.

The rest of the winning wines were all from small West Coast producers, made in the “less is more” style that Cappiello champions: 2022 Chenin from Las Jaras Wines in Mendocino, California; 2021 Flaneur Wines Chardonnay from Oregon’s Willamette Valley; and 2021 Scar of the Sea Wines Syrah from San Luis Obispo Coast, California. Cappiello hopes the “Redo” will shine a spotlight on them—and the wines of other American producers, too, who, in these challenging times, could use all the support they can get.

“In the end, if you’re not buying wines from this country, you’re adding to the problem of us not being able to produce things,” Cappiello quips. “We may be the ‘great consumer,’ but what do we really produce? Wine is something that we do produce in every one of the 50 states.”

Another Inflection Point for the Wine World

Beyond the Redo, various events around the country will honor the world’s most famous blind tasting. Stag’s Leap will open ten of the 30 bottles that remain of its victorious 1973 Cabernet at various commemorative occasions, and Spurrier’s own Académie du Vin Library will release a book titled The Judgement of Paris: The 1976 Event That Shook the Wine World, featuring old photos and quotes from the world’s top wine professionals, on May 15.

The timing of the Judgment’s anniversary celebrations seems apt. As the wine industry rises to meet some of the toughest challenges it’s ever faced, the David versus Goliath narrative of ’76 provides hope and introspection.

Montelena’s Crafton believes that Napa is at another inflection point. “There are really two paths forward,” he says. “One is to remain dynamic, forward-looking, and willing to challenge convention—the same mindset that made the Judgment of Paris possible in the first place. The other is to become more static, more risk-averse, and ultimately less relevant over time. I’m optimistic because I think Napa, at its best, chooses the former. But that outcome isn’t guaranteed. Success is fragile, and it has to be earned continuously.”

The time is ripe for another wine awakening. Only this time, the ball is in home court.

 

Wine Enthusiast Magazine

The world’s most influential wine publication, delivered to your door.

 

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Tasting No 288 – April 28, 2026: Turkish Wine

Posted on April 26, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 288 – April 28, 2026

Turkish Wine: Ancient Roots, Indigenous Gems and Global Parallels

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

Anatolia (the Asian part of modern Turkey) is the true cradle of wine, home to the earliest domestication of the wine grape (Vitis vinifera). While regions like Georgia are famous for ancient winery evidence, southeastern Anatolia and the Taurus Mountains show winemaking traces going back 7,000–9,000 years (Neolithic period). Since the 1990’s, a boutique revolution has shifted Turkey’s focus from industrial quantity to high-quality, terroir-driven indigenous grapes. This tasting bridges that ancient heritage with modern refinement, exploring a “familiar but exotic” profile rooted in the world’s oldest traditions. 

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Sergio Ardila, Cesar Falconi and Jaime Estupiñan

Participants: TBA

 

These are the wines:

  • Doluca, ‘DLC’ Narince, 2022
  • Chamlija, Kalecik Karasi, 2023
  • Kavaklidere, ‘Prestige’ Bogazkere, 2019
  • Kavaklidere, ‘Selection’ Öküzgözü-Boğazkere, 2021.

The Menu and Paring: 

  • Mediterranean Citrus Calamari Salad (pairing with Prestige Narince. The oak-influenced body matches the char of the squid while the citrus notes echo the dressing.
  • Mushroom Risotto (pairing with Kalecik Karası. Earthy undertones and bright acidity harmonize with the rich cream and mushrooms.
  • Braised Beef Short Ribs in Red Wine Reduction (pairing with Bogazkere and the blend Öküzgözü-Boğazkere. The vibrant fruit and acidity of the “Bull’s Eye” Boğazkere cut through the rich fat of the ribs. 
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

 

  1. Historical Context: The Cradle of Viticulture

Turkish wine history precedes the famous European traditions. Consider the role of Anatolia relative to other ancient powers: 

The Hittite Legacy (2000 BCE) 

“Hittite Legacy” is a cornerstone of Anatolian viticulture, as the Hittites (who ruled Central Anatolia roughly between 1600–1180 B.C.E.) were among the first to move wine from a simple agricultural product to a strictly regulated commodity. The Hittites had advanced laws protecting vineyards. Turkey was effectively regulating wine quality thousands of years before the French AOC System was conceived 

The Hittite Legacy: Vineyard Protection Laws

In the Hittite law code (found on cuneiform clay tablets), the second major tablet was titled “If a Vine” (after its opening words). This highlights how central viticulture was to their society.

  • Property Protection: The laws were incredibly specific about theft and damage. If someone stole vines from a vineyard, they were required to pay a steep fine in silver. If a person set fire to a vineyard, the law mandated that they replant the vines and pay a fine to the owner for the lost harvest.
  • Ownership and Social Status: Vineyards were often used as a form of payment or reward for military and administrative service. The laws protected the “right of use” for these lands, ensuring that the state or a neighbor couldn’t arbitrarily seize a productive vineyard. 
  • Regulations and Wine Quality: The Hittites didn’t just protect the land; they regulated the product itself to ensure it was suitable for both the King and the Gods.
  • Religious Standards: Wine was a primary offering in Hittite religious ceremonies. Because it was “the drink of the gods,” there were strict purity standards. Historical texts mention “pure wine,” “sweet wine,” and “new wine,” suggesting they had a classification system based on the style and quality of the press.
  • Pricing Controls: The Hittite laws established fixed prices for various agricultural goods, including wine and raisins. This was an early form of market regulation designed to prevent price gouging and ensure the stability of the wine trade, which was a major part of the Anatolian economy. (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), established in 1935, is the gold standard for wine regulation. It was created to combat fraud and ensure that a “Bordeaux” actually came from Bordeaux and was made according to local tradition; the Italian System: DOC and DOCG modeled after the French AOC, was established in 1963. It is slightly more layered to account for the massive variety of indigenous Italian grapes. )

Native and Domesticated Grapes in Turkey

Turkey is widely considered the “homeland of the vine” (Vitis vinifera), specifically the region spanning Eastern Turkey and the Caucasus. 

  1. Production, Terroir and Wine Tourism

Turkey ranks fifth in the world for vineyard area (~410,000 hectares), yet only 2–3% of grapes are fermented into wine (approx. 65 million liters annually); the rest are for table grapes and raisins.  As a comparison, production in 2024 – in billion of bottles – was: Italy 5.88, France 4.81, Spain 4.13, Argentina 1.45, and Chile 1.24.  

Regional Breakdown & Tourism Routes 

  • Thrace & Marmara (Marmara Wine Route): Maritime climate influenced by three seas. The “Thrace Wine Route” links boutique producers near the Strandja Mountains. 
  • Grapes: Papaskarası (red), Yapıncak (white). 
  • Producers: Chamlija, Suvla, Barbare. 
  • Aegean Coast (Urla Vineyard Route): Mediterranean climate; the “Tuscany of Turkey” with stone chateaus and high-end gastronomy. 
  • Grapes: Çalkarası (red), Bornova Misketi (white). 
  • Producers: Kavaklıdere (Pendore), Sevilen, Urla Şarapçılık. 
  • Central Anatolia (Cappadocia Route): Continental/Volcanic soils. Features tastings in rock-carved caves (e.g., Argos resort tunnels holding 75,000+ bottles). 
  • Grapes: Kalecik Karası (red), Emir (white). 
  • Producers: Vinkara, Turasan, Kocabağ. 
  • Eastern / Southeastern Anatolia: Harsh continental climate; ancestral home of the powerful “Bull’s Eye.” 
  • Grapes: Öküzgözü, Boğazkere (reds), Narince (white). 
  • Producers: Kayra. 

  1. Global Parallels and Price Comparison

Turkish wines share structural characteristics with major global regions, and Turkish offer a “familiar but exotic” profile that bridges the gap between major European styles: 

France: Kalecik Karasi is often called the “Pinot Noir of the East” for its light body, red fruit, and elegance. Narince is frequently compared to Chardonnay because it handles oak aging beautifully and has a creamy texture. 

Italy: Boğazkere (meaning “throat burner”) has the aggressive tannins and structural power of a Nebbiolo (Barolo) or an Aglianico. Emir shares the mineral, high-acid, and “crisp” profile of a Gavi or Etna Bianco. 

Spain: -Öküzgözü (meaning “Bull’s Eye”) is juicy and bright like a Mencía or a fruit forward Tempranillo from Rioja Alavesa. 

Price Comparison: Prestige Turkish bottles ($40–$95) sit in a price bracket similar to Napa Reds or Rioja Reservas, offering complexity comparable to European “Cru” wines. 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Doluca ‘DLC’ Narince, 2022

– The Producer: Doluca is one of the oldest and long established companies of Turkey, being in operation for over 90 years. The Estate was founded as Maison Vinikol in 1926 at Galata, which was the base for today’s Doluca. The founder Nihat Kutman produced his first wines from Yapincak  and Karalahana grape varieties. Located in mid-northern Anatolia, Doluca Wines operates 200 hectares and produce annually 14 million bottles. 

The wine: 

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Narince 
  • Region: Tokat, Anatolia Mid-Northern Region
  • Fermentation: Generally stainless steel, which preserves the grape’s natural a cidity and vibrant fruitiness.
  • Alcohol: 13% 
  • Awards: The 2022 vintage received a Silver medal at the International Wine Challenge 

Winemaker notes: During the production of DLC Narince wine, only free run juice fermented under low temperatures was used. As a result, next to the floral and fruity flavors of this young wine, the narcissus jonquil flower, jasmine, grapefruit and orange aromas are felt at the forefront with its aromatic, smooth and crisp character.

Tasting notes: A delicate floral approach, speaking of linden, narcissus, chrysanthemum and lime. Swirl and more of that floral arrangement is revealed along with yellow pollen and a crispy white nectarine. Palate is smooth and gentle, with a fine line of acidity that slowly increases toward the end. The aftertaste pulls this all together with a lingering palate of lemon zest. (

Aromas/Palate: Lemon zest, green apple, white peach, white pepper, and hints of tropical fruit. This vintage is recognized for its crisp, clean character and high quality for its price point, representing a good example of the indigenous Turkish Narince grape. 

Best parings: Feta, goat cheese, Mediterranean salads, and grilled fish. 

 

Wine #2. Chamlija, Kalecik Karasi, 2023

– The Producer: The Chamlija Family Estate was founded in 2000 by Mustafa Çamlıca. While the family has been farming in the Thrace region since 1935, Mustafa (the third generation) led the transition to high-end viticulture, with the first vintage released in 2011. The Estate is located in Kırklareli, Thrace, specifically the Strandja (Istranca) Mountains region. This area is unique for being influenced by three seas: the Black Sea, the Marmara Sea, and the Aegean. They currently cultivate approximately 130 hectares (roughly 320 acres) across 58 different parcels. Their vineyards are among the highest density in the Balkans, ranging from 5,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare to encourage deep rooting and terroir expression.

Chamlija is a boutique-scale producer focused on “terroir wines.” Their focus is on high quality over mass volume. They produce Approximately 150,000 – 200,000 bottles yearly and export about 30% to over 15 countries, including the United States, United Kingdom, and Germany, positioning themselves as a leading face of the Turkish wine renaissance.

– The Wine: 

  • Vintage: 2023
  • Grape: 100% Kalecik Karası 
  • Region: Aegean  
  • Fermentation: cold maceration before fermentation to maximize color and aromatic extraction without harsh tannins. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks.
  • Aging: Unlike their heavier “Thracian” blends, this wine is aged for approximately 6 to 8 months, using a mix of stainless steel to preserve fruit and used French oak barrels to add subtle structure. Bottled in early 2024, following a light filtration to maintain the wine’s “vibrant” character.
  • Alcohol: 14.2% ABV 
  • Awards: Gold Medal at Balkans International Wine Competition (2025) 

Tasting notes: Color: Bright, translucent cherry red or light ruby. Nose: Dominated by fresh raspberry, strawberry, and a distinctive “oriental spice” (aniseed and cinnamon). Aromas: Vibrant nose dominated by red berries (strawberry, raspberry, and red currant), and a distinctive “oriental spice” (aniseed and cinnamon). You may also detect floral hints of violet and a subtle touch of white pepper or cocoa. Palate: Light to medium-bodied with soft, velvety tannins and a refreshing acidity. It has a smooth, “easy-drinking” character but maintains a persistent finish.

Wine #3. Kavaklidere, ‘Prestige’ Bogazkere, 2019

– The Producer: Kavaklidere winery is the most historic name in Turkish wine, deeply tied to the “Hittite Legacy” as they were the first to modernize these ancient traditions for the 20th century. Founded in 1929 by Cenap and his wife Sevda in Ankara. It was the first private wine producer in the Republic of Turkey. While headquartered in Ankara (Akyurt), the company operates three separate production facilities across Turkey’s most important terroirs: Ankara-Akyurt (Central Anatolia), Cappadocia-Gülşehir, and Pendore (Aegean). They own approximately 652 hectares (roughly 1,611 acres) across seven different sub-regions.
 The winery produces approximately 19.5 million liters annually. Kavaklıdere is a global ambassador for Turkish wine, exporting 20% of its production to over 30 countries, including major hubs in Germany, Belgium, and the United States.

Kavaklidere uses a tiered branding structure to categorize its extensive portfolio, ranging from approachable daily wines to highly structured, age-worthy selections. It mirrors the “Quality Regulations” found in Hittite history, showing how a modern producer creates its own internal standards: 

– The “Prestige” Series (the Flagship) represents the pinnacle of Kavaklıdere’s winemaking, focusing specifically on highlighting the potential of Turkey’s native grapes. Grapes are sourced from specific, high-quality vineyards (like Diyarbakır for Boğazkere or Cappadocia for Narince), that undergo meticulous hand-harvesting, longer maceration, and extended aging in French oak barrels (usually 9–12 months, aiming to produce “terroir-driven” wines with high aging potential (often 5–10+ years);

– The “Pendore” Series (Single Vineyard/Estate) is focused on a specific estate in the Aegean region (near Manisa). This Pendore vineyard uses high-density planting and “limited yield” practices to ensure concentrated flavors. Often features international varieties (Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon) as well as the native Öküzgözü. 

– The “Selection” Series (The Classic), introduced in 1987 to celebrate the winery’s 60th anniversary, is perhaps their most famous “Classic” tier. It focuses on the traditional blending of Turkish grapes -specifically the Öküzgözü-Boğazkere blend, designed to be elegant, consistent year-over-year, and representative of the “Turkish Style”.

– The “Egeo” Series (Regional Excellence), focuses on the Aegean region’s unique microclimates, which are influenced by sea breezes and higher altitudes. These wines are often more “modern” and fruit-forward, and include international varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc.

– The “Ancyra” Series (Premium Varietal). Named after the ancient name for Ankara, this is a “Premium” tier that emphasizes the pure characteristics of a single grape variety. These are typically fresh, easy-to-drink, and usually see little to no oak. They are meant to be enjoyed young. 

– The “Angora” and “Çankaya/Yakut” Series (Daily/Table Wine), are entry-level wines widely available and recognized in Turkey; they are multi-regional blends designed for immediate consumption. 

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Grape: 100% Boğazkere.
  • Region: Diyarbakır,  Southeastern Anatolia
  • Harvest and Fermentation: Grapes are hand-collected at optimum maturity, typically in late September to early October. Long maceration period (skin contact) to extract the deep color and robust tannins characteristic of the variety. Fermentation is temperature controlled.
  • Aging: typically aged for 9 to 11 months in French oak barrels (mostly 225L) to soften the aggressive tannins and add complexity.
  • 13.5%-14% ABV

Tastng Notes: Boğazkere (literally translated as “throat burner”) is known for its high tannins and power. The high levels of “grippy” tannins (the “throat burner” effect) and the full body of the wine require a solid acidic backbone to keep the wine from feeling flabby or heavy. Color: deep, dark ruby with garnet tints. Nose: complex and intense. You will find dark fruit (blackberry, black cherry), dried red fruits, and distinct “savory” notes like leather, tobacco, and black pepper. Palate: full-bodied with “well-balanced strong tannins.” It is a structural wine that feels heavy and “grippy” in the mouth, ending with a long, spicy finish.



Food Pairing: because Boğazkere is so tannic, it requires fat and protein to soften the palate: meats, such as grilled red meats (lamb is the classic Turkish pairing), spicy kebabs, or beef brisket; hearty, slow-cooked stews with rich sauces; heese: Aged, strong cheese like Parmesan, Manchego, or the Turkish Eski Kaşar. 

Wine #4. Kavaklidere, ‘Selection’ Öküzgözü-Boğazkere 2021

– The Producer: Same as wine #3.

– The Wine: 

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Grape: Blend of Öküzgözü for elegance and Boğazkere for robust structure;
  • Region: Mid-Eastern Anatolia
  • Fermentation: long maceration, temperature-controlled malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks; . 
  • Aging: approximately 10 months in French oak barrels, followed by an additional one year in the bottle
  • 14%  ABV

 

  • Awards: Bronze Medal at the 2024 International Wine & Spirit Competition 

Tasting notes: Aromas: A complex nose featuring dried red fruits, plum, and black cherry, layered with notes of spice, tobacco, and leather. Palate: Bold and structured with persistent flavors of cherry and cassis. It is known for its strong, ripe tannins and integrated oak influence from aging. 

Food Pairing: Pairs exceptionally well with spicy sauced red meat, T-bone steak, grilled lamb, or hard yellow cheeses.

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

References:

McGovern, Patrick E. Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture.

Robinson, Jancis. The Oxford Companion to Wine.

Öğütoğlu, Taner. Turkish Wine Guide.

Understanding the Indigenous Grapes of Turkey. The Wine Advocate.

Anatolia: The Birthplace of Wine. Wine Enthusiast.

McNeil Karen. The wine bible. Third edition.

.o0o.

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 Tasting # 287 – March 31, 2026 – Tasting Spätburgunder  

Posted on March 28, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting #287 – March 31, 2026    Tasting   Spätburgunder  

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The  objective of this tasting is to compare Spätburgunder from three different regions of Germany. Spätburgunder is the name of Pinot Noir in Germany.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Erico Silva, Nick Marzella and Ricardo Santiago

Participants:  S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; G. García; E and N. Gochicoa; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; L.Uechi; G. Vega; and M. Silva (guest).

These are the wines:

  1. Rebholz – Spatburgunder R 2021
  2. Meyer Näkel Spätburgunder 2022
  3. Meyer Näkel Spätburgunder Blue Slate 2022
  4. Thörle Spätburgunder 2022.

  1. Menu

  • Insalata di Caprese
  • Gnocchi “au-Gratin” in a Ragu sauce topped with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese
  • Salmone alla Griglia with olive oil and lemon sauce
  • Dessert, coffee and tea

 

  1. Wine Industry in Germany

              Overview

Germany cultivates a focused set of grapes varieties in comparison with France, Italy, and Spain.

Historically, Germany is at the limits of ‘Vitis vinifera’s viability in the northern hemisphere. Few varieties could be cultivated due to its temperature, frost, and topography.

More than 130 wine grape varieties are officially allowed for cultivation. However, only about two dozen varieties are commercially or culturally significant.

Nowadays, about 103,390 hectares are under vine, being 68% white grape varieties and 32% black grape varieties.

German Wine Classification

Germany’s national classification system was recently reformed to improve clarity and transparency. Those reforms have full effect this year (2026).

The 1971 Wine Law — “Ripeness Rules”

For most of the 20th century, in a marginal region like Germany, the essential question was: How ripe can grapes become each short, cool vintage? German wine classification was set up to reward growers who achieved peak ripeness.

German legislators enshrined this paradigm in the 1971 German Wine Law. It pointedly pinned quality to sweetness or potential alcohol but brushed aside terroir and the elements of viticulture and vinification — historic sites, yields, additions, élevage — which contribute to the precise expression of terroir.

The 1971 law set up classifications for Germany’s basic wines, Qualitätsweine, or “quality wines,” and Prädikat: wines with “specific attributes” that were required to meet increasingly selective criteria, mostly ascending ripeness levels.

The VDP and Terroir–Based Classification[1]

The VDP — Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter a private association of roughly 200 German growers recognized that the national classification system failed to address changes in taste and climate. Both had begun to favor the production of dry wines. Moreover, the national system had all but erased the identity of Germany’s most acclaimed vineyards.

So, in 2002, with one eye on Burgundy, the other on restoring the prestige and marketability of top German wines, the VDP rolled out its own terroir-based classification system. The VDP’s prominence meant that its quality hierarchy gained widespread acceptance as a second, parallel system of classification — albeit only usable by its members. Today, its four-tier classification structure looks like this:

All four tiers are for dry wines. Specifications include:

VDP.GUTSWEIN (estate level) from estate-grown grapes, with maximum yields of 4.5 tons/ac or 75 hl/ha 

VDP.ORTSWEIN (village level) from top sites from a single village, with the same yield limits as for VDP.GUTSWEIN

VDP.ERSTES GEWÄCHS (“premier cru”) sourced from recognized Erste Lage (“premier cru”) sites; maximum yields are 3.6 tons/ac or 60 hl/ha 

VDP.GROSSE GEWÄCHS (“grand cru”) sourced from recognized Grosse Lage sites; maximum yields are 3 tons/ac or 50 hl/ha.

The VDP also has a separate classification for Sekt, or traditional-method sparkling wine:

VDP.Sekt (minimum 15 months on lees, 24 months in bottle) 
VDP.Sekt Prestige (36 months on lees, 36 months in bottle). 

The 2021 German Wine Law — Origins Matter After All

It turns out that having two parallel, complex systems was not the way to win over converts to German wine, so in 2021 Germany got a new wine law — and, with it, a new classification system. Under the motto “The smaller the origin, the higher the quality,” German wines are now largely classified by terroir, not ripeness. 

The new law and classification do not have full effect until this year (2026). Up to and including vintage 2025, German wines may still be labeled under the old rules and kept on the market. 

The 2021 classification does not change the existing Prädikate. The additional indication of Prädikate is still allowed by the 2021 wine law for all categories of Qualitätswein (except Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs).

What does change is that quality is now assessed by narrowing geographic specificity. The three main tiers are: Deutscher Wein (German wine); Landwein (Country wine); Qualitätswein (Quality wine).

Deutscher Wein is the most basic wine category, with more laxed requirements and no PGI or PDO designation.

Landwein requires at least 85% of the grapes originate in a given wine region. Landwein is typically Trocken (dry) or Halbtrocken (off-dry). This is equivalent to EU’s PGI denomination.

The vast majority (60-80%, the share depends on the vintage) of German wine is classified as Qualitätswein. These wines must originate entirely from a single German Anbaugebiet or wine region – one of 13 in Germany – and the region must be declared on the label. Wines can only be made from legally permitted grapes and must reach a minimum alcohol content as prescribed for the region. Among the notable provisions of the 2021 wine law, the term Qualitätswein can now be accompanied or replaced by the term geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g.U.) or PDO, combined with the name of a winegrowing area.

Qualitätswein is now subdivided into four narrowing tiers of origin. These are: Anbaugebiet (wine region), Region or Bereich (district), Ort (village), and Lage (vineyard). Lage sits at the apex of this pyramid. 

The 2021 law then goes further, splitting Lage into three rising quality levels:

Einzellage (single vineyard) wines must reach a certain ripeness level; further specifications are set regionally.

Erstes Gewächs (premier cru) are white or red wines produced from a single variety identified as traditional and characteristic of a particular region. Yields may not exceed 3.6 tons/ac or 60 hl/ha on flat land, or 4.2 tons/ac or 70 hl/ha on steep slopes. Potential alcohol must be at least 11% and come from a declared vintage and site or parcel. The wine must be vinified dry and pass a sensory evaluation by an official tasting committee. Erstes Gewächs may not be released before March 1 of the year following the vintage. 

Grosses Gewächs (grand cru) are the pinnacle. Only white and red wines produced from a single variety identified as traditional and characteristic of a particular region qualify as “GG”s. Manual harvest is required. Yields are capped at 3 tons/ac or 50 hl/ha. Potential alcohol must be at least 12%. The wine must come from a declared vintage and a particular site or parcel. The wine must be vinified dry and pass a sensory evaluation by official tasting committee. Grosse Gewächse may not be released before September 1 of the year following the vintage if white and June 1 of the second year after the vintage if red. The new law goes so far as to allow parcels within a single vineyard to be stated on a wine label, provided that these Gewannen, or cadastral vineyards, are entered in an official vineyard register.

 

  1. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

It is Germany’s leading black grape variety. In Germany, the Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is to red wine what the Riesling is to white wine: the cream of the crop. The grape ripens with distinct acidity and moderate tannins and produces wines ranging from light to full-bodied, depending on the region of cultivation.

It is widely cultivated across nearly all German wine regions, with notable significance in Ahr, Baden, Franken, Hessische Bergstraße, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Württemberg.

The Ahr region holds the largest concentration of Spätburgunder vineyards in Germany.

Between 1980 and 2020, the vineyard area dedicated to Spätburgunder in Germany nearly tripled and today, Germany is the third-largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, after France and the United States.

The traditional style of Spätburgunder is lighter in color, body and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates.

High demands on location and climate

Aroma: blackberries, cherries, strawberries, elderberries, pepper.

Cultivation and significance

Demanding in terms of soil, climate and weather conditions, Pinot Noir is the number one red grape variety in Germany.

In Germany, around 11,519 hectares (2023) of vineyards are planted with the Pinot Noir variety, which corresponds to around 11 per cent of the total vineyard area. Wine growers and consumers are increasingly favoring the variety. Since the beginning of the 1990s, the area planted with Pinot Noir has grown by more than 5,000 hectares. Most of the vines of this variety are in Baden (5,029 hectares) – with a focus on Kaiserstuhl. The Palatinate (1,739 ha), Rheinhessen (1,504 ha), Württemberg (1,302 ha), the Rheingau (403 ha) and the Ahr (342 ha) are also important areas for growing Pinot Noir.

Vinification and flavor

Pinot Noir wines taste full-bodied and velvety, with a fruity flavor and hints of almond. The typical Pinot Noir has a slightly sweetish aroma of red fruit, from strawberry to cherry and blackberry to blackcurrant. Barrique wines also have hints of vanilla and cinnamon. A distinction is made between the classic and the modern type. Traditionally, the best Pinot Noirs were made from very ripe grapes, were not very colorful, mild, low in tannins and reddish-red in color. In addition to this classic type, the modern Pinot Noir with a strong red color, more tannin, less acidity and often a short ageing period in small oak barrels is becoming increasingly important.

History

The Pinot Noir grape variety belongs to the Burgundy family. It is probably one of the earliest varieties to be selected from the wild vines in western Central Europe. Charles the Fat brought the variety to Lake Constance in 884. It was planted in the Rheingau in the 13th century. In the 16th century, it was probably also planted in the Palatinate. In the 18th century, the variety is said to have travelled from Burgundy to the Ahr. The variety experienced a boom 150 years ago with the expansion of sparkling wine production, for which pure Burgundy vineyards were planted. The terms “Pinot Noir” and, in parts of Baden, “Klevner” are used as synonyms.

 

  1. The Wine Regions for this Tasting

The Spätburgunder in our tasting comes from three of the country’s wine regions: Ahr, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen

                                            

Ahr – Red Wine Paradise

The Ahr is one of Germany’s northernmost wine regions. It is also one of the smallest, with vineyards extending only 24 km along the Ahr River as it flows toward the Rhine just south of Bonn. From Altenahr, in the west, to the spa town Bad Neuenahr, the vines are perched on steep, terraced cliffs of volcanic slate. In the broad eastern end of the valley, the slopes are gentler and the soils are rich in loess. Four out of five bottles of Ahr wine are red — velvety to fiery Spätburgunder and light, charming Portugieser predominate. Lively, fresh Riesling is the most common white wine produced here. Another specialty of the region is the red variety Frühburgunder.

The Ahr Valley is on the fringe of the protective Eifel Hills. Climate is mild and favorable, greenhouse-like in some of the steeper sites. Soil types are deep, rich loess in the lower Ahr Valley (eastern portion); slate, volcanic stone and rocky soils in the middle Ahr Valley (western portion). The Ahr River meanders dreamily in tight bends through the bizarre rock landscape towards the Rhine and the vineyards nestle above on barren rocks. The mild climate provides the grapes with ideal conditions, as the warmed rocks release their stored heat to the vines at night.

Vineyard area (2022): 529 ha · 1 district · 1 collective vineyard site · 40+ individual sites.

Grape varieties (2022) include 20% white and 80% red. Spätburgunder (64.3%), Riesling (8.7%), Frühburgunder (5.9%) as well as Müller-Thurgau and Portugieser.

Today, the Ahr Valley in the north of Rhineland-Palatinate presents itself as a distinguished red wine growing region. In addition to Spätburgunder, the king of red vines, Frühburgunder is also valued and is one of the specialties of the region.

The top Ahr wines can only be produced with great effort and dedication. To work on the vines and harvest, the winegrowers often must climb through rugged crevices in extremely steep slopes, where sometimes only a few vines stand side by side. Top quality rewards this arduous work in such extreme vineyards.

Most growers are members of the five cooperatives that produce and market about 75% of the region’s wine. The State Wine Domain at the 12th century monastery Kloster Marienthal is the Ahr’s largest wine estate. Nearly all the region’s wine is consumed locally or sold to tourists. 

Pfalz – Where Almond Trees Bloom

Pfalz is located between the densely forested Haardt Mountains (an extension of the Vosges) and the Rhine plain, extending from south of Worms all the way to the French border. For over 85 uninterrupted kilometers, Pfalz’s vineyards sweep across this remarkably pretty, peaceful land, linking the 130 wine towns of the region between Bockenheim and Schweigen on the border with Alsace.

The climate is influenced by many hours of sunshine, with average temperature of 11°C. In terms of soils, Loam is prevalent, often in a mixture with other soil types, such as loess, chalk, clay, colored sandstone or sand.

Vineyard area (2022): 23,698 ha · 2 districts · 25 collective vineyard sites · 300+ individual sites. 

Grape varieties (2022) 61% white and  39% red. Riesling (25.2%), Dornfelder (10.7%), Grauburgunder (9%),  Müller–Thurgau (6.9%), Spätburgunder (7.2%) as well as Portugieser, Weißburgunder, Kerner and Chardonnay.

Pfalz is the second largest German wine-growing region. The focus of the winegrowers is on classic grape varieties, especially Riesling. The king of white wines has become the undisputed leader in the Pfalz with nearly 6,000 hectares cultivated, and several other white verieties are on the rise. Red wines are becoming increasingly important. There is lively, fresh Weißherbst from the Portugieser grape, fruity Pinot Noir and as a special Pfalz success story, Dornfelder, which has been creating a sensation for several years. This deep-colored and quite complex red wine is mostly produced in a dry style with southern charm. About 40% of the vines between the Rhine and Haardt mountains now carry red grapes, making the Pfalz the largest red wine region in Germany.

About a third of the region’s wine is sold directly to consumers and 50% is marketed through commercial wineries and some two dozen cooperative cellars.

Rheinhessen – Land of a Thousand Hills

Germany’s largest wine region, Rheinhessen, lies in a valley of gentle rolling hills. While vines are virtually a monoculture in the Rheingau or along the Mosel, they are but one of many crops that share the fertile soils of this region’s vast farmlands. Wine has been grown here on the left bank of the Rhine since the Romans, and the oldest document about a German vineyard location – the Niersteiner Glöck – concerns a wine location in Rheinhessen.

The climate is mild as the region is surrounded by protective hills and forests: in the west, the forested, hilly countryside known as “Rheinhessen’s Switzerland”; in the north by the Taunus Hills; and in the east, the Oden Forest.

Soil types are mostly loess, limestone and loam, often mixed with sand or gravel, are the main soil types. “Rotliegendes” is a red, slaty-sandy clay soil in the steep riverfront vineyards of Nackenheim and Nierstein and near Bingen, there is an outcropping of quartzite-slate. 

Vineyard area (2022): 27,312 ha · 3 districts · 24 collective vineyard sites · 400+ individual sites 

Grape varieties (2022): 74% white and 26% red. Riesling (19.4%), Müller-Thurgau (14.3%), Dornfelder (11.3%), Silvaner (7.1%), Pinot Gris (8.5%), Pinot Noir (5.5%), Pinot Blanc, Portugieser and Kerner

Varied soils and the favorable climate make it possible to grow many grape varieties, old and new. In earlier times, it was a blend of whites that were popular, and some may remember Rheinhessen as the birthplace of the soft, mellow white wine Liebfraumilch. The region also boasts the world’s largest acreage planted with the ancient variety Silvaner, which is again making a name for itself. Now, a new young generation of local wine growers, appreciating the ideal working conditions on these gentle slopes, have drawn attention to themselves in recent years for their excellent wines, amongst them, high quality Rieslings.

There are a large number of part-time winegrowers in the region who sell grapes or bulk wine to commercial wineries and producer associations who produce and/or bottle and market the wine. Because of the large number of individual sites, about half the region’s wine is marketed under the name of a few collective sites (e.g. Niersteiner Gutes Domtal, and Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen). About one third of all Rheinhessen wine is exported, not least because it is the primary supplier of the components for “Liebfrauenmilch“.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Okonomierat Rebholz, ‘R’ Spätburgunder, Pfalz, 2021

– The Producer: Weingut Rebholz family has long been defined by a steadfast commitment to producing pure, natural, and authentically dry wines. This began with Eduard Rebholz (1889–1966) who transformed the winery after World War II and rejected the growing trend toward sweetened, manipulated wines. In 1951, he articulated his principle of “natural wine”: wines made without sugar additions, artificial sweetening, or any intervention that alter their original character. For him, true quality began in the vineyard, and cellar work should preserve — not modify — the wine. His son, Hans Rebholz (1920–1978), continued this uncompromising dry style, even when it was unfashionable in Germany. Since the mid‑1990s, Hans’s son Hansjörg and wife Birgit have led the estate, expanding vineyard holdings, joining the VDP, and strengthening their commitment to sustainability through organic and later biodynamic certification. Their sons, Hans and Valentin, represent the next generation embracing these same values.

All vineyards have been organically farmed since 2006. The estate places great importance on old vines, essential for producing top‑quality wines. The Burgundy varieties grow on shell limestone and calcareous loess.  Limestone soil is the best condition for all the great Burgundy /Pinot Noir wines of the World!

The “R” wines represent Hansjörg Rebholz’s cross‑generational contribution to the legacy of his father, a tradition the next generation continues with the same focus and dedication to quality. The “R” label marks wines that have always been aged in barriques. By firmly establishing barrique aging for top Burgundy varieties, Hansjörg made it a defining discipline of the Rebholz estate. These wines gain depth and finesse with every passing year.

– The Wine:

  • Year – 2021
  • Grape – 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: Organic farming across all vineyards since 2006; focus on keeping old vine parcels healthy, young, and productive. Siebeldingen’s soils are highly diverse due to the geological formation of the Rhine Rift Valley and the uplift of the Palatinate Forest.
  • Vinification: Healthy, ripe grapes are hand‑harvested and destemmed; Pinot Noir berries is added whole to the destemmed mash; the mash is cooled for cold maceration to capture varietal and site‑specific aromas; spontaneous natural fermentation begins to preserve freshness while extracting structure and complexity; pressing usually occurs after about three weeks; the must is clarified by natural sedimentation
  • Aging: 19–20 months in French barriques
  • 13.5% APV

Producer’s Tasting Notes: Dense and complex structure with lots of character. In the bouquet you will find the scent of sour cherry, black pepper and herbs. A Pinot Noir with an eerie spiciness where the oak is in the background. Unfiltered, juicy, elegant and with a long aftertaste.

Wine #2 Meyer Näkel, Spätburgunder, Ahr, 2022

– The Producer: Weingut Meyer-Näkel is a producer in Dernau in the Ahr Region. It is best known for red wines made from the Spätburgunder wine grape variety, though the portfolio also includes whites and rosé. The name of the wine estate goes back to the marriage of grandparents Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel in 1950. They cultivated an area of just 1.5 hectares yet were able to make a name for themselves, because Willibald’s production of dry red wines represented thoroughly pioneering work at the time. As of 2021 the vineyard holdings had grown to 15 hectares of Pinot Noir. The business was managed by Willibald’s son Werner, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dörte. The two sisters are now proceeding with making the magnificent terroir of the steep slopes by the Ahr tangible in mineral-laden and fruity wines. This requires a great deal of care in the vineyard as well as reduced yields, which are harvested by hand and carefully selected. The work in the cellar focuses exclusively on preserving this high level of quality through a gentle working method.

 

– The Wine:

    • Vintage: 2023
    • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP-GUTSWEIN
  • Vineyard & winemaking: The vineyard is in the Ahr Region and the soil is slate and greywacke decomposition stone. The grapes are hand picked with crushed must fermentation and matured in big oak barrels.
  • 13% ABV

Producer Tasting Notes: This wine is a typical traditional Ahr Pinot. In the nose you find a slightly earthy aroma of red berries like blackberry, blueberry and raspberry as well as ripe cherries, strawberries and blackberries with spicy traces of juniper and laurels. A smooth wine with elegant tannin structure and good substance.

This wine goes well with poultry, light meat, pasta and mushrooms as well as a spicy companion to grilled stronger spiced fish.

Wine #3. Meyer Näkel, Spätburgunder ‘Blauschiefer’ (Blue Slate), Ahr, 2022

– The Wine: VDP.ORTSWEINE denotes high-quality, characterful and traditional vineyards within a town and give expression to the local terroir. Only regional varieties are used. Reduced yield yields and a long ripening period on the vine enable the typical aroma and elegant acidity and tannin structure. The slate soils of the Ahr River give Spätburgunder an unmistakable minerality that is truly unparalleled, making it something unique.

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP ORTSWEIN
  • Viticulture: There are three vineyards Dernauer Pfarrwingert (1.2ha), Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg (1.4ha) and Walporzheimer Kräuterberg (0.7ha) for the cultivation of several grapes, but the majority (75%) are Pinot Noir.
  • Vinification: The fully ripened grapes are hand picked (yield of 40-45hl/ha), the crushed must is fermented with natural yeasts for about 20 days.
  • Aging: 11 months in French Oak barriques, for the most part in used barrels just to underline this elegant wine.
  • 13% ABV.

Producer Tasting Notes: The Blue Slate (“Blauschiefer”) is a very good example of the extraordinary combination of slate and Pinot Noir. The stony soil creates a mineral wine with smoky aroma of red fruits like blackberry, blueberry, red currant and dark cherry, that is accompanied by floral and roasted aromas, with a good substance and sustainability, elegant and smooth tannins.

This wine goes well with poultry, light meat, pasta and mushrooms as well as a spicy companion to grilled stronger spiced fish.

 

Wine #4. Thörle, Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen, 2022

– The Producer: The Thörle Estate dates back to the 16th century. In 1985 Rudolf Thörle took over from his father Jakob Thörle and set the estate’s focus more on the traditional varietals Riesling and Pinot Noir. In the following years, the Thörle family acquired and planted excellent parcels in Salheim’s Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards sites to expand the estate’s diversity of terroir. Since 2006 the state has been in the hands of the next generation, Johannes and Chrisph Thörle, who manage the winery with innovative skills.

The Thörle brothers obtain their distinctive, sappy Riesling and delicate Pinot Noir from the characteristically calcareous limestone soils of Saulheim’s Holle, Scholssberg and Probstey. They have received several prizes and awards for their individual approach and new pressing techniques. To ensure maximum extraction from the grapes, they apply mash retention and use spontaneous yeast for the fermentation process. Today, the Thörle estate ranks among the best producers in Rheinhessen.

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Category: VDP GUTSWEINE
  • Viticulture and winemaking: grown in the younger vineyards around Saulheim. The soils are characterized by limestone sediments and loess-clay deposits. Grapes harvested by hand at an optimal balance of aroma, acidity, and ripeness. The harvest time is particularly crucial for Pinot Noir. Skin-fermented, extract-rich Pinot Noir was aged for 18 months in traditional French barriques (225l). Bottled unfiltered.
  • 13% ABV

Producer Tasting Notes: The nose offers wild aromas and intense dark fruit. On the palate, a hint of herbal mint, fine acidity, and a powerful minerality. Pure Pinot Noir!

Critic’s tasting notes: “Drinking window: 2024 – 2040. This 2022 Pinot Noir is from a mix of German and French genetics. Fully destemmed and fermented in open cuve, it graduated for 18 months in used barrique. A touch of smoke wraps itself around aromatic wild cherry. Cool, smooth balance is immediately apparent on the palace—coolness, in fact, is the operative term, even in this warm year. Fully ripe tannins brush like starched velvet, rounded but really fine. The wild cherry aroma is beguiling and pure, while the freshness is pristine, pure and expressive. My oh my, this is quite a number for an estate Pinot Noir. Bone-dry” (Vinous, 2022).

 

  1. CV Members Rating (after the tasting)


6. CV Members Rating
The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 15 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Thörle, Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen, 2022 was the Best wine and the Best Buy.

Notes and References

German Wine Scholar, Study Guide, Wine Scholar Guild, 2025.

Understanding German Wine Classification, Valerie Kathawala, Wine Scholar Guild Blog, 01 January 2025 (Understanding German Wine Classification)

Wines of Germany:  https://www.winesofgermany.com

Wine Folly: Download Wine Maps (Free Guides) | Wine Folly

Veritable Wines: https://www.veritable-wines-estates.de/partner/thoerle

The GWC: https://thegwc.com/meyer-na%CC%88kel/

Rebholz: https://www.oekonomierat-rebholz.com/

Meyer-Naekel: https://www.meyer-naekel.de/

Thorle: https://www.thoerle-wein.de/

[1] Source: https://www.vdp.de/en/the-wines/classification

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Just for laughing:

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Tasting No 286 – February 24, 2026 – Mediterranean, Atlantic and Etna

Posted on February 24, 2026 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 286 – February 24, 2026

Mediterranean, Atlantic and Etna, three terroirs in contrast

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The selection of Sicily (Etna), the Canary Islands (Valle de la Orotava), and Priorat aims to compare wines produced in extreme territories, where soil and climate profoundly shape their character. Although these regions are very different, they share something in common: an intense mineral expression.

Despite not being part of the Mediterranean,  the Canary Islands were included for the following :

  1. We haven’t had a tasting of wines from the Canary Islands at the Club, notwithstanding having a winemaking tradition of high‑quality wines.
  2. Their volcanic origin creates a natural dialogue with Sicily, while their lightness contrasts with the power of Priorat, enriching the comparison.

Type of tasting: open

Presenters: Clara Estrada and Jorge García-García

Participants:  R. Arroio; J. Brakarz; Y. Cutler; J. Entwistle; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; G. García; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; J. and L. Redwood; R. Santiago; G. Smart; L. Uechi; and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

  1. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, 2024
  2. Envínate, Migan Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands, 2022
  3. Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022
  4. Vall Llach – Porrera Vi de Vila, Priorat DOCa, 2022

The Menu

  • Mediterranean citrus calamari salad
  • Mushroom risotto
  • Braised beef short ribs in a red wine reduction
  • Dessert, coffee and tea

  1. The Wine Regions

The Canary Islands: Viticultural History and Mediterranean Connection

Viticulture in the Canary Islands began after the European conquest of the archipelago in the 15th century, when settlers, merchants, and religious orders—mainly from the Iberian Peninsula, Portugal, and other Mediterranean regions—introduced Vitis vinifera varieties. Many of these grapes, common in the Mediterranean—such as Malvasia, Listán, and others now extinct in continental Europe—found in the volcanic soils and mild climate of the islands an exceptional environment for adaptation. From the beginning, vine cultivation in the Canaries was closely linked to Mediterranean and Atlantic trade routes, with the archipelago acting as a bridge between the two worlds.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Canary wine industry flourished thanks to the production of sweet wines, especially those made from Malvasia, which were exported massively to England, Flanders, and the Americas. These wines, internationally known as Canary Sack or Malmsey, enjoyed great prestige and were widely cited in European literature of the time. This golden age positioned the Canaries as one of the major wine centers of Atlantic trade, in direct dialogue with other Mediterranean regions producing sweet and fortified wines.

A vast range of indigenous grapes are grown for wine, and international varieties are largely absent. Listan Blanco (Palomino), Malvasia, Marmajuelo, Listan Negro and Tintilla are some of the authorized grapes. The local varieties are suited to the sub-tropical climate and achieve high must weight, a reason the trend has been to produce sweet wines, including fortified ones aged oxidatively.

A key feature distinguishing Canary vineyards is that the islands were never affected by phylloxera in the 19th century, allowing the preservation of pre-phylloxera varieties and traditional cultivation systems that disappeared in much of continental Europe.

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, a new generation of wine growers revived these varieties and historical practices, leading to a renewal of the Canary wine industry. Today, Canary wines are valued for their strong identity, marked volcanic minerality, and their ability to express a unique terroir that resonates with both Mediterranean heritage and Atlantic influence.

Appellations: The Canaries’ largest island, Tenerife, houses half of the region’s DOs: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora. The remaining designations cover the islands (in their entirety) of El Hierro, Gran Canaria, La Gomera, La Palma and Lanzarote. Each area has a unique microclimate and soil composition, lending to distinctive wines with signature mineral notes.

Etna DOC, Sicily: “The Burgundy Of The Mediterranean”

Sicily as a whole enjoys ample sunshine and lots of heat. However, Mt. Etna’s high elevation also provides greater rainfall, moderating breezes and cooler temperatures. Etna’s unique nature means soils, microclimates and exposures change dramatically from site to site, creating a panorama of characteristics and possibilities in the vineyards. Etna DOC is a stunning wine appellation that covers the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. The appellation is famous for its unique volcanic terroir and distinctive wines. More details about wines from Sicily, and Etna DOC in particular can be found in our blog post from February, 2024 (https://clubvino1.com/2024/02/22/tasting-no-262-february-27-2024-wines-from-sicily/).

Priorat DOP, Spain: “Some of Spain’s most powerful red wines come from this small, geographically inhospitable wine region”

The Priorat wine DOP is located in the Catalonia region, just inland from the Mediterranean port city of Tarragona. The Montsant mountain chain dominates the region, with vineyards situated between 330 feet above sea level in the valleys of Bellmunt del Priorat and el Molar up to 2,500 feet above sea level on the slopes of La Morera de Montsant and Porrera. Many vineyards are located on costers (Catalan for “steep slope”), so terracing is common, and vineyards are often too steep and narrow for machine-harvesting. The slate soil on the slopes is known as llicorella due to its dark color and is the main feature of the soil’s terroir and the success of its native grapes: Ganarcha and Cariñena.

For more information, see our blog post from May, 2022 (https://clubvino1.com/2022/05/20/tasting-241-may-31-2022-1230pm-priorat-and-penedes-catalonia-wine-region/ ).

  1. Climate and Terroir

          Etna Bianco and the Canary Islands: volcanoes, altitude, and salinity

Both Etna Bianco and Migan come from volcanic soils.

– In the Etna DOC area, vineyards sit between 600 and 900 m on slopes of ash, pumice, and volcanic sands. This produces tense, saline wines with marked acidity.

– In the Canary Islands, especially in the Valle de la Orotava DO, volcanic soils mix ash, lapilli, and basalt, giving light, aromatic wines with a characteristic smoky minerality.

Both regions share volcanic origin, vibrant acidity, saline or smoky minerality, and climates moderated by the sea (the Mediterranean in Sicily, and the Atlantic in the Canaries).

Priorat: slate, Mediterranean heat, and concentration

Priorat contrasts with Sicily and the Canary Islands in almost every way:

– Llicorella soil (black slate and quartz), which contributes graphite notes and a dry, mineral texture.

– A continental‑influenced Mediterranean climate, warmer and drier, producing dense, ripe, structured wines.

– Old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha, which yield deep and powerful wines.

  1. The Grapes

Carricante and Catarratto

Carricante is native grape grown only on the volcanic slopes of Mt Etna and must make up at least 60% of Etna Bianco wines. It is the backbone of the Etna Bianco DOC wines, providing high acidity, tension, and longevity. Catarratto (20–25%) is added to the blend, to add body and herbal notes. Other native grapes are used in smaller amounts: Grecanico (5–10%), which contributes freshness and citrus aromas; and Minnella (5%) that gives softness and white fruit. All are native varieties are deeply tied to Etna’s terroir.

Listán Negro

An indigenous variety from the Canary Islands, it is widespread in Tenerife and La Palma. The grape produces light, aromatic wines with red fruit, pepper, and a distinctive volcanic character. It is the perfect grape to express Atlantic freshness and smoky minerality.

Garnacha (Grenache)

A classic Mediterranean grape, originally from Aragón and widely spread in Spain, France (as Grenache), and the southern Rhône. It produces wines with ripe red fruit, high alcohol, and silky texture. In Priorat it is key for bringing sweet fruit, breadth, and warmth.

Cariñena (Carignan)

Originally from Aragón, now common in Catalonia and southern France. A grape with high acidity, firm tannin, and deep color. In Priorat—especially in Porrera—old‑vine Cariñena provides structure, tension, and dark minerality.

International grapes

One of the red wines from Priorat in this tasting is a blend using international grapes in addition to the native varieties, such as: Merlot (28%), to soffen the tannins, and add roundness and plum notes; Syrah (12%), which adds spice, color, and a floral touch; and Cabernet Sauvignon (12%)  brings structure, firm tannin, and cassis notes. Together, these varieties make Embruix more approachable, rounded, and aromatic than Porrera.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Tenuta delle Terre Nere – Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, 2024

– Producer: Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of Etna’s benchmarks, a pioneer in parcel‑based vinification and in showcasing the purity of volcanic terroir. Terre Nere’s vineyards encompass 55 hectares (135 acres) in four different subregions across the island. Altitude here ranges from 1960 to 3280 feet (600 to1000m) above sea level, creating steep slopes within an undulating landscape. The steepest gradients are closely terraced and require manual farming practices. Many vines are approaching 100 years old with a handful of plots over 130 years having been planted prior to the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th Century.

– The wine: Its style: tense, mineral, saline white with vibrant acidity. Nose-floral, reminiscent of linden blooms; Palate: fresh and salty, mineral essence.

Critics’ notes: (a) Vinous: bouquet of flowers, ginger, and green apple; stimulating acidity and long finish; (b) Wine Advocate: transparent expression of the volcano, with flint, melon, and white peach.

Suggested pairings: white fish, seafood, lemon risotto.

Wine #2. Envínate ‘Migan’ Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands, 2022

– Producer: Bodega Envínate is one of Spain’s most influential projects, focused on minimal‑intervention wines with strong terroir identity. In the Canaries, Envínate is a highly regarded winery situated in the Tenerife Island, known for its terroir-driven, low-intervention wines made from ancient, indigenous grape varieties.  The project, founded in 2008 by four enology graduates—Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez—focuses on expressing the unique volcanic landscapes of the Canary Islands, particularly in the Valle de la Orotava, where the Migan Tinto is produced, and the Taganana region.

– The wine: The style is light, aromatic red with fine tannin and volcanic minerality.

Critics’ notes: (a) Wine Advocate: very volcanic, with notes of pumice stone, pepper, and fresh red fruit; (b) Vivino (user profile): smoke, minerals, cherry, and spices.

Suggested pairings: roast chicken, fatty fish, soft cheeses.

 

Wine #3. Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022[1]

– Producer: Founded by Lluís Llach, Celler Vall Llach is one of the emblematic names of modern Priorat, and specialist in old‑vine Cariñena and Garnacha in Porrera. Their “trossos” (plots of land) are centenary farms, with vineyards between 90 and 110 years old of Carignan and Grenache. Their slopes are impressive and don’t allow mechanized work. They ensure we have an exclusive must for our selections. These vineyards are supplemented with others, chosen for their quality among the oldest and most famous in the villages of Porrera and Torroja, all cultivated by farmers who work on a regular basis with the winery. In addition, to further ensure the complexity of our wines, the winery planted a series of vineyards with grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier.

– The Wine: The Style: Balanced, approachable Mediterranean red with ripe fruit and minerality.

Critics’ notes: (a) Wine Advocate: ripe fruit, sweet spices, fine tannins, velvety palate; (b) Vinous: red fruit, reactive tannins, intense but accessible character.

Suggested pairings: white meats, pasta with ragù, semi‑cured cheeses. 

[1] DOCa is the Spanish (Castillian) version of the title DOQ which is the official title in Catalan and the most commonly seen in the labels. Priorat was elevated to this status by the Catalan government in 2000. DOQ stands for Denominació d’Origen Qualificada. DOP, on the other hand, is the acronym for the Catalan Denominació d’Origen Protegida. Priorat is, together with La Rioja the two regions in Spain with the DOQa classification, the highest level for a wine region.

 

Wine #4. Vall Llach, ‘Porrera Vi de Vila’, Priorat DOCa, 2022

– The Wine: from the same producer, its Style: Deep, powerful, mineral red with firm tannin.

Critics’ notes: (a) Vinous: cherry and balsamic aromas, reactive tannins, intense wine; (b) Wine.com (description): black fruit, graphite, chocolate, and a very long finish.

Suggested pairings: lamb, red meats, aged cheeses.

 

Table A. Technical Sheet and Tasting Order

Table B. Structural and Sensory Comparison

6.  Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 17 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Vall Llach – Porrera Vi de Vila, Priorat DOCa, Spain, 2022was the Best wine, while Vall Llach, ‘Embruix’, Priorat DOCa, 2022  was the Best Buy. 

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