Tasting N^o 254 – June 27, 2023 – Valle de Uco, Argentina

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

1. Tasting Overview

 Valle de Uco is a viticultural region southwest of Mendoza, in Argentina. Situated along the Tunuyán River, the Uco Valley is widely considered one of the top wine regions in Mendoza, and all of Argentina. The main objective of the tasting is to present four of the most significant types of wine produced in Valle de Uco.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Jairo Sanchez and Jorge Requena

Participants: To be announced

These are the wines: 

2. Catena Zapata, Catena Alta, Chardonnay, 2018
3. Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, 2020
4. Salentein Numina Gran Corte, Bordeaux Red Blend, 2019
5. Zuccardi, Jose Zuccardi, Malbec, 2018     

The Valle de Uco Region

Argentina is one of the most important wine-producing countries in the New World, and vies with Chile for the position of largest producer of wine in South America. The high altitude deserts of the eastern Andes mountains have given rise to a high quality wine industry.

Mendoza is Argentina’s largest and best-known wine regions, often producing great wines to critical acclaim. Here, desert landscapes and high altitudes combine to make a very stable climate and a terroir that gives rise to aromatic, intensely flavored reds. Three-quarters of Argentinian wine production takes place in Mendoza. Furthermore, Mendoza Malbec accounts for 85 percent of the Malbec made in the country. There is more Malbec planted in Mendoza than anywhere in the world.

Valle de Uco is located 88 km to the south of the City of Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes, the Uco Valley spans the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The wines from there are often labelled with one of these three place names.

Whereas in 2005 the valley had 16,800ha under vine, today it contains 28,600ha, representing 19% of all the vineyards in Mendoza. Almost one in five bottles produced in Mendoza, comes from the valley.

Because the region is so large, in recent years producers have been carrying out detailed analysis to identify smaller Geographic Indications (GIs). Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes and San Pablo are some of the most famous, together with Gualtallary, and all contain vineyards set at altitudes of between 900m and 1,500m. Irrigation water comes from the glaciers above, mainly channelled by the Tunuyán and Las Tunas rivers.

The climate is continental: dry with plenty of sun, low rainfall, cold winters and warm summers with a large thermal range. The point of difference is the altitude, which defines the temperature (on average, it drops 1༠C every 150m higher up you go) and the cool climate has lured many producers away from warmer areas further down. All these different factors result in expressive, tense reds and vibrant whites.

The proximity and exposure to the Andes make for alluvial, rocky soils with widely varying mixtures of sand, limestone and clay in unique combinations that produce memorable wines.

Within the 50km (30 miles) Valle de Uco region there are smaller wine regions with slightly different wine styles:

Tupungato is well-known among collectors because of an unofficial growing area called Gualtallary with calcareous soils. You’ll find fresher styles of Malbec, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc because vineyards are as high as 5,250 feet (1600 meters).

Tunuyán contains the Vista Flores appellation. The area has sandy soils which produce elegant and aromatic styles of Malbec with minty notes. You’ll also find some Cabernet Franc and even Pinot Noir here.

San Carlos has alluvial soils with more loamy-clay which creates a lush, chocolately palate. The region also sits a bit lower at around 3770 feet (1150 m) which softens the acidity. Expect to find lush, rich styles of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. 

Wine selection. The selected wines – Malbec, Red Blend, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – are representative (about 75%) of the wines produced in the Uco Valley.

3. Information about the wines

Wine #1. Catena Zapata ‘Catena Alta’ 2018, Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina

Producer: Catena Zapata is one of the foremost wine estates in Mendoza, Argentina. Founded in 1902 and still in family hands, it is particularly known for its rich, full-bodied red wines produced from Malbec. The estate is made up of six vineyards in the Luján de Cuyo, Tupungato and San Carlos sub-regions of Mendoza, at altitudes ranging from 3000 to 4750 feet (920 to 1450 meters) above sea level.

The Wine:     Vintage: 2018              Varietal: 100% Chardonnay

Regions: Gualtallary District, Tupungato Region, Uco Valley, 1,450m average elevation

Vinification: Hand-harvested. Whole clusters are pressed, and then 100% fermented in 500 L French oak barrels with natural yeasts at low temperatures. Wild yeasts. Aged for 14 months in French oak. 30% does not undergo malolactic fermentation. First, second and third use barrels used.

Alcohol: 13.8%       Total Acidity: 7.05 grams/liter       pH: 3.25

Tasting notes: This chardonnay’s clonal material often gives way to rot from botrytis (the fungus that produces sweet wines), which is here manifested in that sweetness, although without compromising the wine’s tension and freshness. It also adds tremendous complexity, candied aromas in the midst of ripe fruits, and all accompanied by a very-Gualtallary acidity. Very much a mountain wine. (Patricio Tapia 94)

Rich but fresh aromas of lemon zest, orange and rose blossom. Also smoke and caramel. Rich, viscous and well structured on the palate. Lots of citrus. Elegant spice and a juicy, supporting acidity (Vinum Wine Magazine 17/20).

Wine # 2. Domaine Nico La Savante Pinot Noir 2020

Producer:   Domaine Nico lleva el nombre de la hija de Laura Catena, Nicola, que a su vez rinde homenaje a su bisabuelo, Nicola Catena, fundador de la bodega Catena Zapata en el año 1902

The wine:      Vintage: 2020     Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Vineyard Location:    Gualtallary, Tupungato Elevation: 1450 m.s.n.m. (4757 feet) Planted: In 1994,  Dijon clones: 115 and 777

Vinification:    The fermentation was in roll-fermentor and small stainless-steel tanks. Clone 115 was fermented with 40% whole cluster and clone 777 with 30% whole cluster. Max. Fermentation temperature: 24° C, 7 days maceration. Aged 15 months 30% new barrels, 30% second-use and 40% third-use. All french oak

Alcohol: 13.5%     pH: 3.46

Tasting Notes:       Red fruit with presence of herbs such as thyme, spices, and clove. Medium-high acidity, low alcohol, slight minerality alongside integrated oak and grainy tannins.

Wild smoky raspberries, brambleberries and oyster shells on the nose. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and taut, mineral character. Tense and elegant with a fine frame of tannins. Tightly wound. Drink after 2024. (James Suckling 95)

2020 was a warmer year, and the wine shows it when you taste it next to the 2021, which is cooler. This is a little rounder, with 13.5% alcohol and mellow acidity, with more cherry than flowers, tasty and juicy. It finishes dry and chalky. Best after 2022. (Robert parker 95).

Wine # 3. Salentein Numina Gran Corte 2019

The producer: The Bodega Salentien is located at an elevation of 1.200 meters (4.000 feet), right in the vineyard’s center. More than 49 hectares (121 acres), of native desert habitat were preserved and are a part of the bodega’s everyday landscape. The western horizon is dominated by the close snowy Andes.

The wine:        Vintage: 2019

Varietal Composition: 65% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet franc.

Region: Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza

Vinification: Hand harvested, fermentation in 7,000-liter oak casks. The varieties of this blended were made separately and after 6 months aged in barrels, the barrels were emptied and the blend was made, which came back to the oak barrel to finish the ageing process. The total ageing time was 16 months.

Alcohol: 14.5%         pH: 3.79

Tasting notes: It displays a bright, intense and deep purplish color. Is aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure and a long finish

Salentein Numina Gran Corte displays a bright, intense and deep purplish red color. Its aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes of vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure as well as a long and lingering finish (Winemaker Notes)

Purple in the glass. The complex nose offers clearly defined notes of cigar box, vanilla, fresh plum, blackcurrant and bay leaf with hints of ash. Lean and juicy in the mouth with refined tannins, the flavors are driven by the oak (Vinous 94).

Wine # 4. Zuccardi Jose Zuccardi Malbec 2018

The producer:  Familia Zuccardi is a family-run winery based out of the Bodega Santa Julia in the Mendoza region. The company has numerous brands, each with a wide range of wines, covering classic Argentinian varieties as well as numerous styles including sweet and sparkling wines.

The wine:         Vintage: 2018

Varietal Composition: 95% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Vineyard Location: Malbec from IG Paraje Altamira (San Carlos), Cabernet Sauvignon from IG Gualtallary (Tupungato)

Vinification: Cluster selection, fermentation with native yeasts in concrete tanks. Aging for 24 months in large casks (2500 liters) and barrels (500 liters)

Alcohol: 14.5%           pH: 5.69 g/l

Tasting notes:  Blackberries, graphite, bla

ck pepper and crushed berries on the nose. Full-bodied, very tight and focused with bolted-down tannins that give it fantastic potential for aging. A little cabernet sauvignon here, too. Try after 2023 (James Suckling 96).

Balances muscle with grace, showing notes of molasses, ripe black cherry and black plum that offer nice richness, while a thread of plumeria picks up the trail midpalate. Reveals stony tannins, peppery elements and notes of espresso and orange peel on the lengthy finish. Drink now (Wine Spectator 94).

The 2018 José Zuccardi mixes Malbec from different regions in the Valle de Uco (today, Altamira and Gualtallary) all with limestone soils. It always has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon (only 5% to 10%), which is not mentioned on the label, and is now matured in foudre for two years. I tasted this next to the 2019, where there are no differences other than the nuances from the year, with similar alcohol and acidity, but the sensation is of a little wider and powerful in the 2018. The wine feels very stable and harmonious after the long élevage, but there are no traces of oak (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 94).

4. Menu (and wine pairing)

• Seafood salad (Chardonnay)
• Chicken grilled meat with vegetables (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir)
• Grilled sirloin strip steak with cooked potatoes (Malbec, Malbec Blend)
• Dessert, coffee, tea

5. CV Members Rating : 

References:

https://daily.sevenfifty.com/exploring-argentinas-high-elevation-uco-valley/

https://timatkin.com/cork-talk/uco-valley/

https://www.winemag.com/2018/10/05/uco-valley-wine/

https://aroundtheworldin80harvests.com/2016/11/15/uco-valley-guide-terroir-wines-winemakers-wine-region/

https://www.tangol.com/blog/eng/the-19-most-outstanding-wineries-in-valle-de-uco_post_164

https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews-tastings/uco-valley-wines-12-essential-ones-to-try-446346/

https://catenazapata.com/catena-alta-chardonnay.php

https://domainenico.com/english/la-savante-eng.html

http://www.bodegasalentein.com/en/bodega/lineas.html

https://zuccardiwines.com/en/vinos-de-viticultor/#jose-zuccardi

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Qual a Quantidade Certa de Vinho na Taça?

What is the right amount of wine to pour in the glass?

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Tasting N^o 253 – May 30/2023 – Beyond Malbec: other wines with deep-rooted Argentinian identity

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Torrontes vineyard, Salta

Bonarda vineyard, Mendonza

1. Tasting Overview

In Argentina, while all the usual suspects are well known (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc etc.), there are a few lesser-known varieties that have taken on a uniquely Argentinian identity. The main objective of this tasting therefore is to explore wines made with these special grapes: the white Torrontés and the red Bonarda.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Claudia and Agilson Perazza

Participants: R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; L and J. Redwood; J. Requena; J. Sanchez; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; G. Vega; G. Zincke; and S. Ardila (guest).

These are the wines:

• Susana Balbo, ‘Torrontés Crios’, Salta, 2019
• Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia Las Liebres’ Bonarda, Mendoza, 2020
• Familia Zuccardi ‘Emma Zuccardi Bonarda’, Mendoza, 2019
• Bodega Aleanna ‘El Enemigo Bonarda’, Mendoza, 2018

The Menu

• Seafood salad
• Agnolotti di ricotta with tomato sauce
• Lamb with rosemary and potatoes
• Dessert, coffee, tea

2. The grape varietals and the regions that produce them

 TORRONTÉS

“Malbec may be more popular, but Torrontés is Argentina’s special grape” (M. Puckette@Wine Folly)

Torrontés is an aromatic white wine that originated in Argentina. The only native grape variety in South America to really woo its drinkers, Torrontés is the Queen of Argentina.

Torrontés involves a group of three distinct varieties – Torrontés Riojano, Torrontés Sanjuanino and Torrontés Mendocino – all native to South America. They are a natural cross between the mission grape País (a red grape) and the sweet Muscat of Alexandria grape (also known as Zibbibo), and first appeared in the north of Argentina. Of the three varieties, the most popular (and most delicious) is the Torrontés Riojano, which grows dominantly in northern Salta. Other regions such as Mendoza and La Rioja produce a lot of Torrontés wines using the other two varieties of Torrontés, but these tend to be much simpler in aroma and taste and often made in a sweet style. The wine smells sweet but is usually made in a dry style. Albariño and dry styles of Riesling and Muscat Blanc (dry “Moscatel” from Portugal) are similar in aroma and taste to Torrontés.

The Torrontés thrive in Argentina’s high-altitude vineyards, particularly in the Cafayate region of Salta, where T. Riojano is grown. This region, on the edge of the Andes, boasts some of the highest vineyards in the world, reaching up to around 10,000 feet (3,000m) above sea level. Here, dry, desert-like conditions and a significant diurnal temperature shift help bring out the best qualities of Torrontés. The soils in Cafayate consist mostly of free-draining chalky loam and in some areas can be quite rocky. The dry soil causes stress in the vines which causes them to produce less vegetation and not as many grapes. As there are fewer grapes, it means the concentration of flavors within the grapes rises. New plantations in the higher parts of the Uco Valley in Mendoza are promising too.

Tasting notes: Color: pale straw color with silver and green highlights. Primary flavors: Meyer lemon; peach; rose petal; geranium; and citrus zest. “A perfume bomb in the nose, Torrontés is locally known as “the liar”, as its floral, fruity, and tropical notes trick you into thinking you might have a sweet wine, but the mouth is, to the contrary, bone dry and occasionally a little bitter. If you want a sweeter finish, try one of the late harvests (sweet wine) versions. When made well, it’s like the vinous equivalent of a gin and tonic!” (A. Barnes, Wine Folly).

Food pairing notes: Torrontés is an excellent match with fish and shellfish, as well as with the regional cuisine of the northwestern Argentina, especially the empanadas and the typical Locro argentino. Even though Torrontés smells sweet, it’s usually quite dry, making it a great match with savory dishes that feature exotic spices, fruit, and aromatic herbs. With its light aromatic style and cool serving temperature, it is an ideal wine to match with Asian and Indian cuisine due to its sweet floral aromas of rose petals and flavors of white peach and lemon zest.

BONARDA aka Charbono, Corbeau, Douce Noir…

Emblematic variety of Argentina

Bonarda is a stealthy red wine option from Argentina that many experts think is going to make a big splash in the coming years. If País was the most-planted red variety in Chile, Argentina’s equivalent would be Bonarda. Bonarda was the most widely planted red grape before the Malbec boom and suffered a similar historical treatment as País: downgraded to table wine and abandoned as it lost out on the fashion stakes.

About the grape: Bonarda, as it is called in Argentina, is not supposed to be called Bonarda: the actual true Bonarda grapes are a group of at least six distinct Italian grape varieties, the most well-known of them being Bonarda Piemontese.

Instead, the Argentinian grape, when was DNA-profiled, was found to be identical to a rare grape from the alpine vineyards of Savoie in eastern France, known as Douce Noir or Corbeau de Savoie, which is also found in old vineyards in Napa, under the name Charbono.

The Bonarda/Charbono grape is believed to have originated in the Savoie region in the 18^th century, when the Savoie was in fact under Italian rule, rather than being part of France as it is today. The grape became a much-maligned variety during the 20^th century and almost disappeared in France. In 1958 it was prohibited in France, and all 500 hectares of the Bonarda vines were pulled out, while it was being planted widely in Argentina.

Bonarda is very important viticulturally in Argentina, where it is second only to Malbec in terms of acreage. In all, Bonarda accounts for over 18,000 hectares (45,000 acres) in the country, representing nearly 10 percent of all grapes grown there. Bonarda has been used to make fruity, medium-bodied bulk wines with low tannins. However, more recently some producers began looking more seriously at Bonarda, discovering its great potential as a varietal, especially for its adaptability to warmer areas, and using site selection and winemaking techniques to make more interesting and premium wines. Of the total cultivated in Argentina, 60% is found in Eastern Mendoza, a warm area located at about 700-800 meters above sea level, where it does best, because of its long hang time required to reach phenolic maturation.

How does Bonarda differ from Malbec? Often considered Malbec’s little brother, while Bonarda displays ample color in the glass, just like Malbec, it delivers lower tannins and slightly higher, more juicy-tasting acidity. Most Bonarda wines are made with little to no oak, and rarely carries alcohol above 13.5% ABV.

Tasting notes: Color: deep ruby to deep purple. On the nose: very fruity on the nose at first; notes of black cherry compote, fresh blueberry, and plum. Then, its complexity evolves, giving off nuanced aromas of violets, 5-spice, allspice, and peonies. If the wine was oaked (though most are not), may have slight smoky notes of cigar box, sweet figs, and chocolate. On the palate: initial burst of fruitiness, medium-body, juicy acidity, and smooth, low-tannin finish. The Bonarda wines fall within three styles:

Traditional Bonarda: Historically pipped as Malbec’s little brother, they are vinified in the same way. More traditional Bonarda wines are fruit-forward coming from warmer regions. Key regions are San Juan, La Rioja, and sub-regions San Rafael and Rivadavia in Mendoza.

Fresh, flirty Bonarda: Treated with shorter maceration periods and some whole cluster carbonic maceration, this new clan of Bonarda are lighter, fruitier, and perfect to enjoy chilled over lunch. Key areas are Luján de Cuyo (sub-regions of Vistalba and Ugarteche) and Tupungato, in the Mendoza region.

Serious Bonarda:  In recent years, you will find a few new Bonarda plantations popping up on prime vine-estate in the highlands of the Uco Valley in Argentina, which proves just how seriously winemakers are once again taking the variety. Delving into the potential quality of Bonarda, these wines do not come cheap, but they do not taste cheap either. Most producers skip the oak and age wines in cement eggs, resulting in more linear, dark fruit and floral Bonarda with finesse. Key region is Uco Valley, Mendoza.

Pairing notes: Bonarda is a remarkably diverse food pairing wine because of its lower tannin and higher acidity. It will go well with chicken, beef, pork, and even a more steak-like fish (e.g., grilled salmon steaks with hoisin BBQ). Because of its subtle brown spice flavors, it will also pair well with flavors from the South Pacific (think pineapple, mango, teriyaki etc.). Locally inspired fares include mole sauces, curried potatoes, empanadas, and tacos al pastor.

3. Information on the Wines

Wine #1 – Susana Balbo, ‘Torrontés Crios’, Salta, 2019

– The Producer: Dominio del Plata is an Argentinian wine company founded and owned by leading winemaker Susana Balbo since 1999. The winery is located in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, with vineyard plots in several subregions of the Uco Valley. The Crios label features a wide range of monovarietal and blended wines for everyday consumption, including a Malbec rosé. The winery mainly ferments the wine in stainless steel tanks, though concrete eggs have been introduced for premium wines. The Torrontés grapes are sourced from Cafayate, Salta, and the highest vineyards in Valle de Uco, Mendoza.

– The wine: this wine is crisp, refreshing and aromatic, with a bouquet of citrus fruits, passion fruit, lychee, and white flowers. Lively acidity, a hint of creaminess and a long mineral finish add depth and balance to the palate.

• Vintage: 2019
• Varietal: 100% Torrontés
• Regions: Cafayate (Salta) and Uco Valley (Mendoza); 1700m average elevation
• Hand-harvested
• Vinification: fermentation in stainless steel tanks at 13^oC max. with selected yeasts; conservation over lees for 3 months to improve wine structure.
• Alcohol: 13%
• Ratings: 90 pts. (Patricio Tapia Descorchados; Tim Atkin); 88 pts. (Cellar Tracker)

Tasting notes: “This wine blends grapes from two origins: Altamira in the Uco Valley (Mendoza), and Cafayate (Salta). According to Susana Balbo, the Altamira vineyard contributes with the herbs and citrusy side, while Cafayate’s adds the ripe white fruit aromas. The result is a tremendously fresh wine (something you often don’t find in this variety) that hasn’t lost its varietal character. The texture is smooth and round. An aperitif wine” (Patricio Tapia @ Descorchados).

Classic Bonarda: Bonarda wine to get to grips with the grape.

Wine #2 – Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia Las Liebres’ Bonarda, 2021

– The producer: The sister brand of Altos Las Hormigas winery, Colonia Las Liebres was established in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza to focus solely on the cultivation of Bonarda grapes and was one of the original makers of export-quality single-varietal Bonarda. It makes fresh, juicy and great value Bonarda reds, as well as an excellent traditional method rosé bubbly, and even a sparkling red (named Brusca, in ode to its Italian inspiration).

– The Wine. The winery defines their approachable and very affordable red Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Clásica as a bistro or trattoria wine. The ‘house style’ is to keep moderate alcohol and good freshness. It is a good example of the fresher, fruitier Bonarda produced in the region.  Ideal to pair with pasta Pomodoro dishes, pizza and light meats.

• Vintage: 2021
• Varietal: 100% Bonarda
• Region: Mendoza; 90% organic grapes from Luján de Cuyo and 10% grapes from their new property Jardín de Altamira in the Uco Valley, where the limestone soils and higher altitude add tension to the wine even in a warmer year.
• Fermented for 10 days in 3,000-liter stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts, with daily rack-and-return for gentle extraction.
• Matured in concrete tanks with no oak treatment.
• Alcohol: 13.1%.
• Ratings: 90 pts (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate); 91 pts (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados); 90 pts. (Tim Atkin).

Tasting notes: “This is a classic in the Altos Las Hormigas catalog and has been made since the early 2000s. The grapes come from old vines in Luján de Cuyo and some grapes from estate-owned vineyards in Paraje Altamira in southern Uco Valley. It’s a juicy Bonarda with firm and friendly tannins and tones of black fruit in jam (as is usual in the variety) but accompanied by refreshing acidity that invites you to keep on drinking.” (Patricio Tapia).

Bonarda with Bite: Serious Bonarda wines for a different expression

Wine #3. Bodega Aleanna ‘El Enemigo Bonarda’, 2018

– The Producer. El Enemigo is a cult wine producer based in Mendoza. The estate is a joint venture by Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil, the chief winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2002. The pair created El Enemigo and the “Bodega Aleanna” in 2007. The estate focuses on traditional winemaking techniques and produces two wine ranges: Gran Enemigo and El Enemigo. The El Enemigo range is devoted to varietal wines made from Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Bonarda and Chardonnay, while the Gran Enemigo range includes Bordeaux blends, and a number of single vineyard Cabernet Franc wines.

– The Wine: This Bonarda is a tribute to old Bonarda wines of the Eastern Mendoza, a wine made in a traditional Mendoza style. This wine shows a deep violet color with bluish reflections. The nose is intense and complex. Intense aromas of ripe black fruit, blackberries, raspberries, black cherries, chocolate and liquor, with some spicy notes of fresh herbs provided by the Cabernet Franc. The taste has a sweet impact with silky tannins and aromas of ripe black and red fruits with notes of licorice and vanilla. Its natural acidity is refreshing. Because of its concentration and complexity, the finish is long and persistent.

• Vintage: 2018
• Composition: 85% Charbono (Bonarda; 15% Cabernet Franc.
• Region/vineyards: El Mirador, Rivadavia (Bonarda); Gualtallary, Tupungato (C. Franc).
• Vinification: 15 days-fermentation with wild yeast, max. temp. 28^oC for 15 days, with 25 days maceration in French oak barrels 2^nd and 3^rd
• Aged 15 months in 100-year-old foudres.
• Alcohol: 13.5%
• Ratings: 92 pts. (Wine Spectator); 91 pts. (Tim Atkin); 92 pts. (Jésica Vargas @Wine Enthusiast); 88 pts. (Decanter World Wine Awards).

Tasting notes: An intense and spiky Bonarda. Super aromatic and a more challenging, but fun, mouth feel that is blended with a dash of Cabernet Franc. “The bouquet of this well-crafted wine is loaded with flowers, rosemary, strawberry and cherry aromas. Medium in weight, it delivers plenty of red fruit flavors with a touch of spice and toasted oak. Silky tannins and nice acidity make the wine very enjoyable. It’s a good and delicious example of what Bonarda wines can offer”. (Jésica Vargas @ Wine Enthusiast).

Wine #4 – Familia Zuccardi, ‘Emma Zuccardi Bonarda’, Mendoza, 2019

– The Producer: Familia Zuccardi is a family-run winery based out of the Bodega Santa Julia, built in 1968, in Mendoza by Alberto Zuccardi. The Familia Zuccardi bodega was established in 2013 in the Valle de Uco, by Alberto’s grandson, Sebastián. Today he leads a young team of agricultural engineers and enologists charged with producing the highest quality wines in the Uco Valley.

The wine: Emma Zuccardi is part of the bodega’s ‘winegrowers’ line of wines. Emma Zuccardi, Sebastián’s grandmother, is a charming and sophisticated woman. She is creative and has her own style. This wine is a tribute to her personality. “The 2019 Emma Zuccardi Bonarda was produced with grapes from the zones where they believe the variety behaves better, in this case in the Valle de Uco, more specifically San Pablo and Altamira, in approximately the same proportion. Fermented and matured in concrete and bottled unoaked, like many wines at Zuccardi, to preserve the varietal purity. It’s juicy and has citrus freshness, something 2019 might have in common with 2018, with very good finesse” (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).

• Vintage: 2019
• Variety: 100% Bonarda
• Region: IG Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley; 1100 m ASL and IG San Pablo, Uco Valley, 1400 m ASL
• Manual harvest
• Vinification: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, maceration for 20-25 days followed by Malolactic fermentation.
• Fermentation and aging in concrete vats.
• Alcohol: 12.9 %
• Ratings: 93 pts. (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate); 95 pts. (Patricio Tapia, Descorchados); 94 pts. (Tim Atkin).

Winemaker notes: Red with black intense purplish tints. Very fresh, red and black fruit aromas reminiscent of strawberries, cherries, blueberries and raspberries. Silky, smooth and juicy entrance, with a lively acidity and elegant tannins that give a great structure.

Club del Vino  Members Rating 

The tasting took place before the wines’ prices were revealed. The participants rated them according to relative preference, and the Familia Zuccardi ‘Emma Zuccardi Bonarda’, 2019 was rated the as the Best Wine and the Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia las Liebres Bonarda’ 2019 as the Best Buy.

References

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

https://winefolly.com/; https://www.winesofargentina.org/en/provinces/salta;

https://winefolly.com/tips/5-south-american-wine-varieties-you-need-to-know/

https://winefolly.com/grapes/bonarda/

https://southamericawineguide.com/a-guide-to-bonarda-wine-grape-variety-argentina/.

https://www.decanter.com/argentina-2014-coverage/bonarda-a-unique-varietal-of-argentina-with-great-potential-30561/

https://www.susanabalbowines.com.ar/

https://zuccardiwines.com/vinos-de-viticultor/#emma-zuccardi

https://www.susanabalbowines.com.ar/vino/crios-torrontes.

https://www.enemigowines.com/about-us

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How bold is your favorite red wine?

Jose Brakarz sent this chart. Club Members will find this certainly interesting.

Dear Members: I found this graph about the scale of red wines and thought about sharing with you.

I first sent it to our foremost expert in the group, Ricardo, to hear his opinion.

Ricardo Santiago’s comments: “Wine Folly is a serious and trustworthy publication. The Graphic is great but is
really a generalization. For instance: Pinot Noir is a light body, but it can also be medium body. You can
have a specific Mencia classified as medium body, but with less body than a specific Pinot Noir from
Oregon. In the same way the Gamay light body can be medium body.”

Next April 25th is the monthly Club de Vino tasting. Cristian Santelices and Jorge Claro will present a selection of Chilean wines from Aconcagua Region. Details will be posted as soon they are available.

Please, as soon as possible,  let Claudia Perazza and or Clara Estrada know that your plan to attend. Keep tasting!

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Not so serious matter:

Every morning having a glass of water with some lemon drops will make you lose a lot of weight. The only requisite is that the lemon tree must be 10 Km from your place.

Tasting N^o 250 – February 28, 2023 – 12:30pm  Wines from Mendoza, Argentina

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

..

1. Tasting Overview

Objective:

The main objective of this tasting is to compare three red wines of the same varietal – MALBEC, from the same Bodega – Catena Zapata. In addition, one white wine from the same winery will be tasted.

Type of tasting: semi- blind; the names of the wines are provided.

Presenters:

Clara Estrada and Jorge García-García

Participants:  

R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; C. Estrada; J. Estupiñan; J. García; N. Marzella; O. Mason; A. and Claudia Perazza; John and Lucia Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

1. Catena Zapata ‘Appellation White Clay’, Semillon-Chenin, 2020
2. Catena Zapata ’Catena Alta’, Malbec, 2018
3. Catena Zapata, ‘Catena Appellation La Consulta’ Malbec, 2019
4. Catena Zapata ‘Catena Appellation Paraje Altamira’ Malbec, 2019The Men

• Menu

  • Mussels in a light white wine sauce
  • Homemade Agnolotti with fresh spinach in tomato sauce
  • Beef medallions
  • Coffee, tea and dessert

   

  2. Information about the Catena Zapata Winery
     

     a .General Information

  The winery was founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena and was passed to his son Domingo. Domingo’s son, Nicolás Catena Zapata (A.K.A. Nicolás Catena), was a pioneer to introduce European winemaking techniques to Argentina, including the introduction of Malbec and vine growing in high altitudes. Nicolás is recognized as the vintner who revolutionized wine quality in Argentina.

  All wines are produced at high altitude in the winery located in Luján de Cuyo from grapes produced in different vineyards in the Mendoza Region, Argentina (see map above). The Catena Zapata wines are a blend of single varietal lots from the Catena family’s vineyards. Over the years, Nicolás Catena discovered the influence altitude has on fruit quality. As one climbs the altitudes of the Andes the average temperature decreases and the amplitude between day and night temperatures increases. This environment provides the ideal climate for grape maturation. Each of the Catena Zapata family vineyards is divided into parcels according to their soil composition. Each vineyard is divided into lots that are harvested separately, and especially prepared to be part of the final blend of each Catena wine: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Chardonnay. (See https://catenazapata.com/adrianna-vineyard.php for more information about the different vineyards).

  B. Vinification

  Vineyard lots are harvested at different times to ensure optimal natural acidity and moderate alcohol levels. Whole berries are hand loaded into small format fermentation bins and 225-500 L barrels; lots from each vineyard are treated individually; fermentation and maceration last for 28-30 days; cold maceration. Wild yeasts. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in barrel; wine undergoes active battonage to protect it and drastically reduce the amount of SO2 needed. Aged for 18 months in French oak.

  C. Historic Rows

  Catena Alta is an assemblage of historic rows within the Catena family Estate vineyards. The blend of these historic rows, like the marriage of sounds that create a symphony, yields a highly aromatic and elegant wine that speaks for the earth and the vines that have been tended by the Catena’s for four generations. The Catena Alta wines can usually be drunk starting three years after harvest and into the following one to two decades.

  Sources: https://catenazapata.com/catena-alta-wines.php

  https://catenazapata.com/index.php.

   

  3. Information on the Wines

  Wine #1.  Catena – Appellation White Clay, 2020

  • Year – 2020
  • Varietal: White blend Semillon 60%; Chenin Blanc 40% from Luján de Cuyo
  • Eight months in French
  • Total Acidity: 6.4 grams/liter in tartaric acid; pH: 3.2
  • 13% APV
  • 92 pts (Vinous); 90pts. (Wine Advocate)

  Tasting notes: Deeply aromatic with expressive citrus and peach with a rich and mineral finish. Pairs well with vegetables, pasta and grilled white meat (Catena).

  “Yellow with a golden sheen. The nose is dominated by white flowers, honey and the aging process. In the mouth, this is voluminous with mild freshness and a creamy, compact, terse feel followed by a long, oaky finish.” (Vinous);

  “The grapes were harvested quite early and then fermented in stainless steel, managing to keep the alcohol to 13.5% in this warm and dry year. It’s balsamic and medicinal, with notes of yellow fruit and some spicy smokiness, as 35% of the wine matured in new barrels for seven to eight months. It’s soft and creamy without excess, combining volume and tasty flavors and a bitter twist in the finish” (Wine Advocate).

  Wine #2. Catena Alta, Malbec, 2018

  • Year – 2018
  • Varietal: 100% Malbec
  • Vineyards: Angelica; La Pirámide; Nicasia; Adrianna; Angelica Sur.
  • Vineyard lots harvested at different times to ensure optimal natural acidity and moderate alcohol levels.
  • Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in barrel; active battonage
  • Aged 18 months in French oak.
  • Total Acidity: 6.2 grams/liter; pH: 3.55
  • Unclarified and unfiltered
  • 8% APV
  • 93 pts. (Wine Advocate)

  Winemaker notes: after many years of research and experimentation, Nicolas and his daughter identified their best vineyard rows of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Malbec and made the first vintages of the Catena Alta wines in very small quantities. Catena Alta continues to be a limited production of single varietal wines made from the selected few rows in the Catena family’s vineyards. These special barrels undergo a rigorous second selection at the winery. The Catena Alta wines can usually be enjoyed starting three years after harvest and into the following one to two decades.

  Tasting notes: “The 2018 Catena Alta Malbec shows more evolution and ripeness than the 2019. It’s varietal and floral with a mixture of red and black fruit, sweet spices and aromatic herbs. It has moderate ripeness—in fact, it’s a little lower in alcohol than the 2019—a medium body and fine-grained tannins, with good grip”. (Wine Advocate).

   

  Wine #3.  Catena, Appellation La Consulta, 2019

  • Year – 2019
  • Varietal: 100% Malbec
  • La Consulta vineyard; cold maceration; fermentation 16 days + post maceration 10 days.
  • Aged 12 months in French oak.
  • Total Acidity: 5.85 grams/liter; pH: 3.65
  • 5 APV
  • 92 pts (Wine Advocate)

  Winemaker notes:  In the 1950s, Don Domingo Catena began sourcing Malbec from the Vineyards of La Consulta. The combination of intense sunlight and cool nights yielded a wine that Domingo prized for its deep purple color, black fruit aromatics and rich velvety tannins.  https://catenazapata.com/index.php

  Tasting notes: The Catena Malbec Appellation La Consulta shows a dark violet color with deep purple tones. The nose offers aromas like red fruit and ripe, concentrated dark berries with fresh herbs and floral notes like lavender and violets, some traces of vanilla and tobacco. The mouthfeel is rich, with raspberries and blueberries, spices notes and a touch of mocha. The finish presents soft and well-structured tannins with bright, crisp acidity that gives the wine exceptional length.(Winemaker notes, taken from Wine.com??).

  The 2019 Appellation La Consulta Malbec feels primary and fruit-driven, quite faithful to the varietal and vintage, with good freshness and moderate alcohol. It was juicy, with some of the chalky texture of the stony soils. 90,000 bottles produced. (Wine Advocate).

   

  Wine #4. Catena – Appellation Paraje Altamira, 2019

  • Year – 2019
  • Varietal: 100% Malbec
  • Altamira vineyard; cold maceration; fermentation 16 days + post maceration 10 days.
  • Aged 12 months in French oak.
  • Total Acidity: 5.95 grams/liter; pH: 3.6
  • 5% APV
  • 93 pts. (Wine Advocate); 93 pts. (Robert Parker)

  Winemaker notes. In the 1950s, Don Domingo Catena began sourcing Malbec from the Vineyards of Paraje Altamira in the Uco Valley. The combination of intense sunlight and cool nights yielded an elegant, mineral, slightly spicy Malbec with a deep texture and flavors. tannins. It is an elegant, mineral, slightly spicy Malbec with a deep texture and flavors born of the combination of intense sunlight and cool nights. Perfect paired with meat, fish, fowl and vegetarian dishes.

  “Following the path of the 2018, the 2019 Appellation Paraje Altamira Malbec is phenomenal. It shows freshness, elegance, balance, complexity and nuance as well. It’s seamless, precise and ethereal with lots of inner energy and light. As the 2018 was, it’s expressive and floral, varietal and with the full chalky texture that is a distinct characteristic of Altamira. It’s tasty, the tannins are polished and there is an almost salty sensation in the finish” (Wine Advocate).

  For more information about the harvests for the vintages selected see: https://catenazapata.com/harvest-2019.php.

   

  CV Members Ratings  prepared by the C. Directiva

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An Insider’s Guide to the Wines & Wine Country of Argentina | Laura Catena | Talks at Google

Contribution of Juan Luis Colaiacovo

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