Club del Vino 2024 Wine Tasting Program

Posted on January 24, 2024 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Club del Vino 2024 Wine Tasting Program

Rediscovering the Wines of Italy

 

2024 Wine Tasting Calendar  < click here to the newest version of the calendar. 
Also available bellow.

General criteria

  1. The wine tasting program for 2024 will continue to deepen our learning of the wine regions, varietals, styles and blends of one specific country. In this context, the program will focus on the world of Italian wines in-depth, aiming to highlight lesser-known grape varieties and regions, their diverse climates, soils, and topography. The program will also review the ancient history behind different wine production techniques and showcase well-known producers and smaller family-run businesses that value both tradition and innovation.
  2. Club del Vino – CV –  members will present wines that differ from previous program selections to ensure the program is distinctive and unique. The wines to be presented should be available in the Washington area or through online purchase sites.
  3. As a reference, the wines to be selected shall have an average qualification of 90+ by reputable wine critics.
  4. The maximum cost for a set of four wines to taste is $240.
  5. The members of the CV shall select a month and a topic of their choice by December 12, 2023. Each session may accommodate a maximum of three presenters. This document provides  bellow a tasting schedule and a list of possible topics  in selecting a theme.
  6. Throughout the year, members of the CV can propose additional activities, such as visits to wineries and tastings, to expand the annual program.
  7. The Technical Director and members of the Steering Committee are available to assist members in selecting topics and wines.

The wine tasting Program for 2024 comprises these criteria, the informational text bellow suggestes topics and calendar of tastings.

 

General Information About the 2024 Wine Tasting Program of the Club del Vino, Washington DC

 This provides guidance for CV members in selecting regions, wine varieties, and appellations of origin, as well as topics to consider when proposing a tasting session.

Italian Wine Production

The rich history of Italy with wine reveals that the practice dates back thousands of years, even before the arrival of the Phoenician, Etruscan, and Greek settlers. These groups were already producing wine in Italy before the Romans established their own vineyards. The Romans, however, played a significant role in expanding the viticultural area of Italy by introducing efficient viticultural and winemaking methods.

The expansion of Italy’s wine production began to unravel in the first half of the 20th century due to wars and political misadventures. However, in the 1980s, Italy’s economic fortunes rose and brought the wine trade with it. Since then, the quality of Italian wines has multiplied, and they have gained international fame. First, Barolo became the new luxury wine god, then Amarone Della Valpolicella, followed by the Super Tuscans. Italy’s wine industry was on the right track once again. Italian wine is beloved by large swaths of people in America, particularly in the coastal stretch from Massachusetts to Delaware, where over ten million Italian Americans live.

Italy was the largest wine producer in the world until this year, with a total area of 702,000 hectares devoted to vineyard cultivation and an annual average production of 49 million hectoliters of wine. Italian wine is produced in every region of the country and is exported worldwide. In 2022, Italy accounted for 19.3 percent of global wine production, making it the leader ahead of France (17.7 percent) and Spain (13.8 percent). Italians are also big wine consumers, averaging 42 liters per capita per year, which places them fifth in the world in terms of wine consumption.

Variety of Italian Wine Grapes

Italy has been the top wine-producing country in the world (in terms of volume) since 2014. It is well-known both for its huge wine production, and also, as home to the largest number of grape varietals in the world. Despite France’s reputation as a wine-producing nation, it only uses 35 to 40 varietals commercially across all appellations. On the other hand, in Italy the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry recognizes over 350 different grape varieties that are used commercially, which is about 10 times more than the number used in France. Italian winemakers and grape growers have access to a vast array of wine grapes that can satisfy the curiosity of any wine lover. They use various options to create unique and flavorful wine styles from north to south.

Italy is home to many grape varieties that are popularly recognized as native Italian varieties. Some examples are Nebbiolo, which is used for Barolo and Barbaresco, Sangiovese, famous in Tuscany and other regions, and Glera, used for making Prosecco. There are families of grape varieties that all require their individual lines. The likes of Malvasia (12 distinct varieties) and Lambrusco (13 separate, distinct varieties) certainly add up to the numbers.

Few wine grape varieties are genuinely indigenous species to Italy if we go back even further. The spread of the Roman Empire and the trading of Greeks and Phoenicians brought to Italy grape varietals from across Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. But arguably, many of these grapes found their feet and true home in Italy, so we continue to refer to them as Italian grapes varieties. There are hundreds of these, and those interested can find a very good list of them HERE.

 

Italian Wine Classification and Labels

Italian wine labels, just like those from France and Spain, are required by law to show certain basic information (producer name, appellation, vintage, alcohol content and bottle volume). Italy began developing its official wine classifications in the 1960s, modeled on the French appellation system. Since then, several modifications and additions to the legislation have been made, the last being made in 2010, to be consistent with the latest European Union wine regulations (2008–09). The Italian government’s system of wine classification and labeling uses a four-tier quality hierarchy of currently more than 500 DOCG, DOC/DOP and IGT titles. These are the official tiers from bottom to top level:

Vino da Tavola (VdT): Wines with no geographical indication are called Vino da Tavola, or VdT, which means “table wine.” Table wines are made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy and are rarely of high enough quality to be bottled for the European market or export to the US.

Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): is the broadest category, in which all grapes should produced in a specific territory in Italy stated on the wine label. Otherwise, IGT wines do not have to conform to strict standards regarding the style of wine. Wines in the IGT category are often, but not always, of lower quality than DOC wines. Currently there are 118 IGTs in Italy.

Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) which includes two sub-categories: Vini DOC and Vini DOCG:

Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC): is next quality level, which means “designation of controlled origin.” There are 330 official DOC appellations in Italy, covering many types of wine, from the sparkling wines of Prosecco to the Vin Santo dessert wines of Tuscany, to a wide range of red and white wines across the country. Each DOC has its own rules about permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, and aging requirements.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG): is the highest quality level. The DOCG designation was created in 1980 in response to criticism that there were too many DOCs, and their quality was variable. DOCG wines, in contrast, were to be truly the best of what Italian wines could offer. The first DOCG wines were Barolo and Barbaresco, both red wines made from the Nebbiolo grape in Piedmont, and Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, both red wines made from the Sangiovese grape in Tuscany. There are now 77 official DOCG wine appellations located in 15 different regions, but mostly concentrated in the regions of Piemonte, Lombardy, Tuscany, and Veneto.

All DOCG wines and some DOC wines will have a paper band containing a serial number that covers the cork or wraps around the neck of the wine bottle.

On the other hand, the Italian wine classification system hasn’t kept up with the innovations and new quality styles coming out of Italy today. One such example is the case of Super Tuscans: this unofficial term emerged in the 1970s, to describe a particular set of high-quality Tuscan wines which were precluded from claiming DOC or DOCG status because they broke traditional Italian winemaking norms (use of foreign grape varieties, and wines often matured in small, new oak barrels). Several of these wines earned global recognition, hence ‘Super Tuscan’. Originally these wines had to be labeled as Vino da Tavola because they contravened the stringent, tradition-focused DOC laws. This situation ultimately led to the creation of the IGT category in the 1990’s, with its relatively relaxed production rules.

 

Italian Wine Regions

Italy is divided into 20 administrative regions, all of which produce wine, and all of which contain several discrete wine sub-regions or denominations. Therefore, for the purpose of this program, the 20 main wine regions correspond to the 20 administrative regions of the country. The text continues bellow the map.

Understanding the differences between these regions is helpful in understanding the different types of Italian wine. Wine in Italy tends to reflect the local cuisine, while regional cuisine also influences wine. Although some sub-regions like Chianti, Prosecco, and Barolo are very well-known, Italy’s over 400 diverse viticultural areas produce a wide range of wines that cover the entire flavor profile spectrum.

Here is a brief description of the Italian wine regions listed from smallest to largest in terms of production quantity.

 

  1. Valle d’Aosta (~0.05% DOC production).

Aosta Valley, which is also known as Valle d’Aosta, is the smallest and least populated region of Italy. It is situated in the mountainous Northwest corner of the country, and it shares borders with France and Switzerland. The climate in the Aosta Valley is distinct for an Alpine zone. It is located on the sheltered side of the Western Alps, which leads to falling in a rain shadow and experiencing warm and dry summers. However, the warm, sunny days are followed by much cooler nights, which can affect the grapes adversely. To deal with this, the vintners use various techniques, one of which is training the vines into pergolas. This helps to distribute ground heat to the vines on cold nights.

Despite its small size, the region produces a wide range of red and white wines using native and introduced grape varieties. The most important grape variety is Picotendro, which is the local variant of Nebbiolo. Additionally, the region produces Pinot Noir rosé, Petit Rouge (a red wine), and Petite Arvine (a white wine).

  1. Molise (~0.1% DOC production).

Molise wine region is the second smallest in Italy. Despite its small size, Molise produces some interesting red wines. Among red varieties, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Sauvignon are of great importance, while the most commonly used white grape varieties are Bombino Bianco, Greco, Fiano, and Malvasia.

  1. Basilicata (~0.1% DOC production).

The Basilicata, in Southern Italy, is one of the smallest wine-growing regions and it is located almost exclusively around the extinct volcano Vulture in the northeast of the region. The region is home to just one DOCG and four DOCs, which collectively cover only two bottles in every hundred produced here.

Their main wine is made using Aglianico grapes cultivated on the Vulture volcano’s slopes. The vineyards on Vulture are among the highest in Europe, with some lying beyond 1,000 meters above sea level. It boasts an impressive and commanding flavor profile. The DOCG Aglianico del Vulture Superiore is the only wine widely recognized beyond the region’s borders and has gained. Furthermore, vineyards are located near the charming towns of Rionero in Vulture and Matera in the east, which was the European Capital of Culture 2019 and is always worth visiting.

  1. Calabria (~0.17% DOC production).

The Calabria region in Southern Italy has a long history of wine production that dates back to ancient Greece. Calabrian wines were once renowned not only in Italy but also in other parts of Europe. However, in the late 19th century, the Phylloxera epidemic devastated the region’s vineyards, leading to a sharp decline in the wine industry.

The production of white wines in Calabria involves using a variety of Greco Bianco grapes. Additionally, when discussing Calabrian wines, it is worth mentioning Ciro, one of the region’s oldest wines. Ciro red wine is made from the indigenous Gaglioppo grapes and is a full-bodied, tannic wine with strong fruity flavors.

  1. Liguria (~0.2% DOC production).

The Liguria region can be described as small but beautiful. It is characterized by steep slopes with dry-stone walls, which are difficult to machine. These slopes are home to a handful of ancient grape varieties in the Cinque Terre. Due to the laborious work involved, many farmers have abandoned viticulture in favor of greenhouses in recent decades. However, in recent years, viticulture has experienced a small renaissance thanks to some innovative winemakers.

Liguria is a famous wine region that produces light white wines, particularly from Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes – known locally as “Pigato” because of the pigmented colors that appear on the mature grapes. Vermentino is considered one of Italy’s great grape varieties because of its perfect blend for sipping on a beach, having as an aperitif, or pairing with seafood. Many people mistake Pigato for Vermentino, but Vermentino usually has more intense colors, while Pigato has less pronounced and more subdued fruity aromas. The primary areas in Liguria where Pigato grapes are grown are Savona, Imperia, and Genoa. Pigato wine is an excellent reflection of the Ligurian terroir, highlighting the minerality of the soil and the sea salt aromas. Liguria also produces two red grape varietals – Rossese and Ormeasco (similar to Piedmont’s Dolcetto). Rossesse wines from Piedmont are notably fruity and spicy.

  1. Campania (~0.5% DOC production).

In the south of Italy, we find Campania, the most visited Southern Italian region. This should not be surprising: the region’s capital is Naples, the spiritual home of Pizza. This region produces unique indigenous wines, many of which are grown in the same volcanic soils that buried Pompeii. Grapes such as Pallagrello, Biancolella, Coda di Volpe, and Tintore make intriguing wines. Wines from Falanghina, Greco di Tufa, and Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio are particularly noteworthy.

Aglianico is the star of Campania’s wine scene. It is a powerful wine that can be compared to a mythical creature. It’s not for the faint of heart, as only the most passionate wine enthusiasts who enjoy a challenge would appreciate its harsh tannins, lack of fruitiness, and intense minerality. However, researchers believe that Aglianico was the primary grape variety used in Falernum, one of the most well-known wines of the Roman Empire. Aglianico is a highly tannic and rustic red wine, traditionally requiring about a decade of aging to become drinkable. Recently, Aglianico wines have gained popularity as winemakers have learned how to soften their robust, meaty tannins.

  1. Sardinia (~1% DOC production).

Sardinia may appear similar to Sicily, an Italian island of similar size, but it boasts a unique wine portfolio. It is the only region in Italy that produces and consumes more beer than wine, yet it boasts some exceptional and rare varieties, such as Torbato, Nasco, Monica, Semidano, and Vermentino. The vast terroir of this region has contributed to the development of quality grapes that are slowly gaining international recognition.

Among the many excellent wines produced in Sardinia are those made from Cannonau and Vermentino grapes. It was later discovered that the grape Cannonau, a source of pride for Sardinians, is Grenache. The wine made from this grape in Sardinia has a rustic taste with notes of dried fruit. The wines produced in Sardinia are highly aromatic and are usually available at a great value.

 

  1. Sicily (~1% DOC production).

Sicily is a beautiful and ancient place. Its rich soils, high altitude, and dry winds allow the island’s vineyards to produce a large tonnage of grapes per acre. Historically, winemakers focused on meeting market demands and prioritized quantity over quality. Consequently, only a few wines were considered good enough to bottle, resulting in mediocre quality and a poor reputation for Sicilian wines. However, with the help of renowned winemakers such as Giusto Occhipinti, Sicily has transformed its reputation from poor quality to luxury in just a few decades.

Today, they produce beautiful and magical wines from Frappato, Nerelo Mascalese, and Nero d’Avola. They also are making beguiling white wines from Moscato Bianco and Grillo. The greatest wines are fresh and delicate despite the hot African winds and the Mediterranean climate. The red wines from Sicily are dark, rich, and fruit-forward because of the warm climate. Nero d’Avola is a splendid red wine grape variety that deserves to be considered one of the best in the country.

  1. Lazio (~2% DOC production).

It is unsurprising that vine growing was prevalent in Rome, the Roman Empire’s center. However, even before the Romans, the Etruscans already practiced winemaking in Lazio. The Etruscans were an early tribe that spread agriculture and winemaking practices throughout central Italy.

Lazio is known for producing primarily white wines, mostly from the Malvasia and Trebbiano grape families. Additionally, Lazio is home to refreshing and zesty Grechetto. While the region’s primary red wine is Merlot, its signature red wine is Cesanese.

  1. Puglia (~3% DOC production).

Located at the Southern heel, this region has a geographical variety like no other. This is the hottest of the major Italian regions, and the wines are typically heavy and tannic. In the south, vines are grown on sandy but nutrient-rich flat vineyards. These differences in the soil greatly affect the wine produced there.

Sangiovese and Montepulciano – the classical central Italian grapes – are predominantly grown in the north, where vineyards can be found in hillier terroirs. The south is known for its Primitivo and Negroamaro varieties.

It’s interesting to note that Primitivo is not actually an Italian grape but originated in Croatia and was brought to Italy from across the Adriatic. In Croatia, the grape is called Crljenak Kaštelanski and is still grown there. In America, initially, it was cultivated in a greenhouse in Boston, Massachusetts, before being transplanted in Northern California and named Zinfandel.

  1. Marche (~3% DOC production).

The Marche is situated in the Eastern part of Italy, between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains. The region produces an equal amount of white and red wines. The white wine made from Verdicchio is the most famous wine in the region due to its refreshing and aromatic qualities. Pecorino is another special white wine grape that is grown in Marche.

The southern areas of the Marche region are renowned for producing some of the finest red wines. One such wine is the Rosso Piceno, which deserves more attention. This wine must contain a minimum of 60% Sangiovese. Another noteworthy red wine is the Rosso Cònero, which is required to have at least 85% Montepulciano, and the winemaker has the option of adding 15% Sangiovese. Lacrima is a dark-skinned grape variety native to Italy’s Marche region. Once much more widespread, it is now used almost exclusively in the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC wines, which are usually varietal.

  1. Friuli-Venezia Giulia (~6% DOC production).

Until the early 20th century, Friuli-Venezia Giulia was not considered part of Italy but a southern part of the Austrian Hapsburg empire. This rich region provided the Austro-Hungarian population with fruit, food, and wine. It is located in the far Northeastern corner of Italy. In total the region boasts four DOCGs, twelve DOCs, and three IGPs and is best known for its white wine production, some of them shared with neighboring regions (Veneto, Trentino).

Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s biggest wine export is Pinot Grigio, but its signature white grape is Friulano. The region produces a range of unique and intensely flavored Pinot Grigio styles, including Ramato, and is also responsible for a large quantity of Prosecco. Additionally, it is home to several other indigenous grape varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, and Picolit.

  1. Trentino Alto-Adige (~6% DOC production).

This beautiful and lesser-known Italian region is located near the Alps in the Northern part of Italy and produces excellent white wines. Reflecting its complex geopolitical history, Trentino-Alto Adige is composed of two autonomous provinces. Trentino is almost entirely Italian speaking, while Alto Adige has a predominantly German-speaking population, who call their province Südtirol (South Tyrol), and also was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919. Due to its proximity to neighboring countries, you may come across wine labels printed in different languages besides Italian, such as German and Ladino.

The primary grape varieties are the indigenous Schiava, Lagrein, and Germanic varieties Gewurztraminer, and Müller-Thurgau (the latter two are sweeter). Increasing quantities of Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are grown here, as well as the red Bordeaux varieties.

The region has a cool climate with plenty of sunshine and alpine soils, which makes it an ideal place for growing grapes. Despite the region’s infrequent rainfall, it is perfect for producing white and sparkling wines. Pinot Grigio is a popular choice because of its zippy and mineral-driven taste. In Trento, they produce a sparkling wine made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that can easily rival the best Champagne.

  1. Abruzzo (~7% DOC production).

Abruzzo is an Italian region on the east Adriatic coast and has one of Italy’s most contested identities. This region is highly mountainous and lush along the coastline, with most of it being nature reserves and forests. Yet, many publications and wine critics dismiss the region as insignificant; it has produced fine wine on a small scale for decades.

Abruzzo is home to two DOCG as well as seven DOC wine designations and is believed to be the birthplace of several grape varieties that thrive in Northern Italy and France. The primary grape varieties in Abruzzo are the white Trebbiano and red grape Montepulciano. The wines made from this red grape are known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. However, it can be a bit confusing as there is also a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is a wine from Tuscany made with Sangiovese. Montepulciano produces a dark, rich wine with high tannins and an herbaceous character, similar to Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, the classic Italian rosé Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo stands out and is worth trying.

 

  1. Umbria (~7% DOC production).

If Tuscany lacked highways and supermarkets, it would resemble Umbria. While competing regions produce more wine, Umbria’s wine is highly regarded by sommeliers. The region is landlocked and located east of Tuscany. The region comprises 13 DOCs and two DOCGs. Like Marche and Lazio, Umbria is best known for its white wine production, though its two top level DOCG designations are for fuller-bodied red wines that age exceptionally well: Montefalco’s Sagrantino grape, which is an outstanding example of a grape with massive tannic strength and complexity; and Torgiano Rosso Riserva based on Sangiovese.  Grechetto and Trebbiano are also among the signature grapes grown in this area.

Grechetto is the next most prominent white variety. It plays a supporting role in Orvieto and various other white wines in the region. Its minerally and zesty qualities resemble Pinot Grigio, with a distinct green almond flavor.

  1. Lombardy (~7% DOC production).

Lombardy is a region in North-Central Italy, widely known for being the country’s industrial hub. The regional capital, Milan, is the second-largest city in Italy. But the region is also home to vast areas of unspoiled countryside, which host many small-scale wineries that produce a significant amount of the region’s wine output. A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy offers a wide range of high-quality and refined wine styles, and is home to five DOCG, 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles.

The region is famous for its Nebbiolo-based red and for sparkling wines (two sparking DOCGs). It is particularly renowned for its Sparkling wine, which is made using Pinot Nero, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc grapes in the same way as Champagne, especially in the Oltrepo Pavese area. Lombardy also produces red wines from Nebbiolo grapes in the Valtellina, called here Chiavennasca, which is a lighter and more delicate version of Nebbiolo, akin to Pinot Noir, and rosé wines in the regions surrounding Lake Garda.

  1. Emilia-Romagna (~9% DOC production).

Emilia-Romagna is a rich, fertile region of Northern Italy. Its viticultural heritage dates back to the seventh century BC, ranking it among the oldest of Italy’s wine regions. The Etruscans introduced vines here that later were adopted by the Romans, who used the Via Aemilia Road (after which the region is named) to transport wine between its cities. About 15% of wine produced in Emilia-Romagna falls under the region’s 19 DOC denominations and only a tiny fraction under its two DOCGs (Albana di Romagna and Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto).

Emilia-Romagna’s famous Lambruscos come from five DOCs and match perfectly with Parma’s delicious cheeses. Lambrusco has long been considered a cheap, sweet, fruity wine. Now, there are several outstanding off-dry to totally dry Lambruscos from Emilia-Romagna.

  1. Piedmont (~11% DOC production).

Situated on the border of France and Switzerland is Piedmont, Italy’s western Alpine region, which is renowned for producing some of the finest Italian wine varietals. Although alpine in nature, grapes ripen well in the summertime warmth. The evenings are cold due to the diurnal nature of the high altitudes. Piedmont is home more DOCs and DOCGs than any other Italian region, among them the well-known Barolo (the king of wines), Barbaresco, and Barbera d’Asti.

Nebbiolo is a grape with high tannins and a pale color that has long been famous for its bristling acidity and high tannin, while Barbera, from the Monferrato hills, is Piedmont’s workhorse grape and the region’s most widely planted variety. Besides the great Nebbiolo wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, another success story in the past decade has been the region’s sweet white Moscato d’Asti (sometimes not appreciated) and the underdog red varietal Dolcetto, which has several DOCs and three DOCGs dedicated to it. Other native grape varietals that are grown here include Brachetto, Bonarda, Pelaverga, Malvasia, and Arneis.

  1. Tuscany (~17% DOC production).

Situated in Central Italy, Tuscany’s neighbors are Liguria and Emilia-Romagna to the north, Umbria and Marche to the east and Lazio to the south. Tuscany is a mesmerizing place and Italy’s oldest wine-growing region.  Before the rise of Rome, Tuscany was the home of the Etruscans, an ancient winemaking culture with connections to the Phoenicians. The region’s top wines are officially recognized and protected by 41 DOC and 11 DOCG titles. There are also six more flexible IGP/IGT designations, with the pan-regional Toscana IGP representing nearly a quarter of total output.

At the center of Tuscany wine production is the dry red Sangiovese, the most important of all Italian wine grapes, which has been cultivated here for so many centuries that it has adapted to nearly every microclimate in the region. These include Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Chianti wine district is the most famous for Sangiovese. When Sangiovese became the required major grape in Chianti during the 1970s, the other noble non-native grapes (Cab and Merlot) ended up creating a new style of wine: Super Tuscan.

As Sangiovese is to the classics, Super-Tuscan is to the modern. Tuscan winemakers discovered they could make exceptional wines with Cabernet Sauvignon. The problem was that the grape was not allowed in classic Tuscan wines like Chianti, which has to be at least 80% Sangiovese. The laws eventually changed, but the die was set. After that, super-Tuscans were the rock stars of the Italian coast.

For white wines in this region, Trebbiano (Ugni Blanc) is the region’s most-planted white grape, followed by Malvasia and Vermentino, which has similarities to Sauvignon Blanc.Veneto (~18% DOC production).

The Veneto wine region is situated in the northeast corner of Italy, just to the west of Friuli Venezia Giulia. This region is renowned for growing grapes that are unique and not commonly found in other parts of Italy. Most grapes grown here are indigenous to Italy, with Garganega, Glera, Corvina and Rondinella being the most prevalent. In recent times, Pinot Grigio has also been introduced and has become very popular amongst wine lovers.

The climate is a rare balance of Mediterranean and Alpine influences, making it possible to grow grapes with minimal effort. Besides the great red blends of Valpolicella made with Corvina, Corvinone (a distinct variety) Rondinella and Molinara, there are also several fine Merlot wines in this area. The most famous wine of Veneto is Amarone della Valpolicella, a decadently rich dry wine made from partially dried grapes (passito). Garganega and Trebbiano are the white grape varieties here. Today, 25% of the region’s wine is made and sold under 27 DOC/DOCG titles.

 

Wine Tasting Program for 2024

Based on the previous information, the proposed Tasting Program for 2024 can be titled “Rediscovering the Wines of Italy,” It focuses on selected wines from these producing regions and grapes varieties from Italy.

Each selected region and wine variety would be introduced by the presenters with the aim of giving greater context to the topic that will be analyzed and the wines that will be tasted. Members will be able to choose among these suggested topics:

  • Introducing less-known grape varieties.
  • Presenting wines from specific regions, especially focused on less-known regions.
  • Analyzing the differences between wines that have distinct quality designations.Showcasing wines that require unique conditions for growth, harvesting, or production.
  • Discovering wines made from the oldest and most ancient grape varieties.
  • Discussing wines made from the same grapes but different regions and climates of the country.
  • Introducing Italian spumante wines.
  • Presenting various types of wines produced by a single winery.
  • Introducing small wineries from various regions aiming to showcase their unique qualities and the distinct flavors of their wines.
  • Presenting the premium selection of white wines from the country.
  • Presenting the finest red wine selection from the country.
  • In addition, members may wish to propose a wine tasting from a small/medium producing country not presented in the last few years (2019-2023) in order to complete the calendar year.

 
Good Selection and Better Tasting!

References:

  1. MasterClass: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-doc-and-docg-wine-differences-between-doc-docg-igt-and-vdt-on-italian-wine-labels
  2. Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_wine
  3. Winefolly: https://winefolly.com/wine-regions/italy/
  4. https://winefolly.com/tips/super-tuscan-wines/
  5. LIbiamo: https://libiamowines.co.uk/en/how-many-italian-grape-varieties-are-there
  6. The Wine School: https://www.vinology.com/italian-wine-regions/
  7. Decanter: https://www.decanter.com/wine/wine-regions/friuli-venezia-giulia/
  8. https://italysfinestwines.it/en/news/

 

 

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Tasting No260. The Best wines of 2023 December 12, 2023, 12:30

Posted on December 4, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No260. The Best wines of 2023  December 12, 2023 with an address by Juan Luis Colaiacovo on Club del Vino development

December 12, 2023, 12:30

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA         

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Objective and Overview

The objective of this tasting is to revisit the best wines from this year. We will enjoy the best white wine and will be able to compare the three best reds selected from the tastings of 2023.

Type of tasting: Semi blind

Presenter: John and Lucia Redwood

Participants: the list will be added after the tasting

Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Claro; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; A.&C. Perazza; J.&L. Redwood; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; R. Zavaleta; and G. Zincke

The Menu

  • Asparagus soup
  • Spinach and white cheese agnolotti with tomato sauce
  • Beef medallion with brown sauce and roasted potatoes
  • Coffee, tea and dessert

Wines Selection and Tasting Procedure

The methodology to select the wines was very simple: among the more than 40 wines tasted during 2023, all but those presented in May were rated in quantitative terms by the participants, regarding their quality (“best wine”). The numerical quality ratings for all the wines (whites and reds) sampled on 10 monthly tasting events during the year were ranked; the white wine with the highest rating and the three red wines with the highest ratings were selected. An interesting common feature of the “best of the best” wines selected is that, while they were evenly divided between Argentina and Chile, all four wines are blends rather than single varietals.

The tasting will follow the following procedure:

  • Blind tasting of the 3 reds in random order.
  • Participants may try to identify the red wines and will rank the wines by order of preference (subjective ranking).
  • The preferences will be aggregated and informed to the participants
  • The wines are revealed, and prices are disclosed.
  • Participants select ‘best value’ wine.

 

The Wines

The following wines were selected from the best wines in 10 tastings. The vintages may be different from the wines originally tasted because of availability in the market.

 

♦ Catena – Appellation White Clay, 2022 (2020 no longer available) – February 2023

The Producer: Bodega Catena Zapata located in Mendoza, Argentina.

  • Year – 2020
    • Varietal: White blend Semillon 60%; Chenin Blanc 40%.
    • Region: Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
  • Aging: Eight months in French oak barrels
  • 13% APV

Tasting notes: Deeply aromatic with expressive citrus and peach with a rich and mineral finish. Pairs well with vegetables, pasta and grilled white meat.

“The grapes were harvested quite early and then fermented in stainless steel, managing to keep the alcohol to 13.5% in this warm and dry year. It’s balsamic and medicinal, with notes of yellow fruit and some spicy smokiness, as 35% of the wine matured in new barrels for seven to eight months. It’s soft and creamy without excess, combining volume and tasty flavors and a bitter twist in the finish” (Wine Advocate).

♦  Seña, Aconcagua Valley, 2020 (2019 no longer available) – March & April 2023

  • Vintage: 2020
  • Varietal: Bordeaux Blend: 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, 15% Carménère, 7% Petit Verdot
  • Region: Aconcagua Valley, Chile
  • Vineyard: Close to the sea with the benefit of coastal winds and long hanging period.
  • Farming: Biodynamic and hand harvested.
  • Ageing: 22 months in 90% French oak barrels (80% new) and 10% foudres.
  • 5% APV

Tasting notes: A deep and beautiful garnet-red color with violet hues, the 2020 Seña presents complexity on the nose with multiple layers of fresh red-fruit aromas such as cherries and raspberries accompanied by violets and pleasing touches of dill and rosemary, all framed by light notes of sweet spices. The palate shows young fruits, more sweet spices, and smooth balsamic tones. It is fresh and juicy with elegant fine-grained tannins that create a silky and pleasing sensation. The 2020 vintage shows elegance and balance with an ample and profound finish.

The 2020 Seña is a blend from grapes harvested early, the second week of March, and fermented mostly in stainless steel and 10% in concrete eggs. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and good freshness. It’s subtle and layered, not only fruit but with more spice; it has polished tannins and very integrated oak after 22 months in barrique, 78% new, and with 10% of the volume in large Stockinger barrels. …This wine has intensity and complexity, with no herbal or mint notes; it is spicy and juicy, with energy and depth. It has structure, color, stuffing, and acidity to develop nicely in bottle (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).

♦  Salentein Numina Gran Corte 2019 – Valle de Uco, Argentina – June 2023

The producer: The Bodega Salentien, located in the Uco Valley, Chile.

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal Composition: 65% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet
  • Region: Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
    • Vinification: Hand harvested, fermentation in 7,000L oak casks. The varieties of this blend were made separately and after 6 months aged in barrels, the barrels were emptied and the blend was made, which came back to the oak barrel to finish the ageing process. The total ageing time was 16 months.
  • 5%APV

Tasting notes: It displays a bright, intense and deep purplish color. The aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes of vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure and a long finish.

Purple in the glass. The complex nose offers clearly defined notes of cigar box, vanilla, fresh plum, blackcurrant and bay leaf with hints of ash. Lean and juicy in the mouth with refined tannins, the flavors are driven by the oak (Vinous).

♦  Clos Apalta, 2018, Colchagua Valley, Chile – August 2023

  • Producer: Clos Apalta, Aconcagua Valley
  • Vintage: 2018
  • Varietals: Bordeaux Blend: 64% Carménère, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot.     Alcohol Content: 15% vol.
  • Region: D.O.  Apalta
  • Fermentation Type: 75% in 75hL French oak vats, 25% in new French oak barrels
  • Ageing:  25 Months in French oak barrels. 87% new French oak barrels, 13% in second use.

Tasting notes. Deep and inky purple red robe with dark blue edges. Intense, spicy with layers of red and black fruit on the nose, with cedar notes. Elegant tannins open towards a mid-palate that combines finesse and concentration, round and fresh. Exceptionally long finish.

CV Members Rating

The tasting took place before revealing the wines and their prices. 14 participants rated them from to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.

Clos Apalta, 2018 was rated the Best Wine and Salentein ‘Numina Gran Corte, 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

 

 

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Laughing matter: 

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Tasting No 259 November 28, 2023 Wines of Canelones, Uruguay

Posted on October 31, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 259  November 28 (previously 14), 2023 12:30pm

Wines of Canelones, Uruguay

 

  Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The Canelones wine region of Uruguay may be one of the lesser-known gems in the world of wine, but its growing recognition is well-deserved. With its unique terroir, diverse grape varieties, innovative viticulture practices, and unique maritime influence, Canelones is in the forefront of the Uruguayan wine industry. In this tasting, we’ll explore the Canelones wine region of Uruguay, delving into its history, climate, grape varieties, and the thriving wine culture that has emerged in recent years.

Type of tasting:  Open

Presenter:  Michelle Fryer

Participants:   R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Boccalandro; J. Brakarz; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. Garcia; N. Marzella; C. Perazza; L. and J. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi and P. Meduña (invited).     

 These are the Wines:

  1. Bouza ‘Albarino’, 2022
  2. Pizzorno ‘Tannat Maceración Carbónica’, 2020
  3. Bouza ‘Tannat,’ 2019
  4. Bouza ‘Tannat A6 Parcela Unica’, 2018

The Menu:

  • Calamare sauteed in lemon sauce
  • Spaghetti Carbonara
  • Grilled NY Steak with Spinach and brown sauce on the side
  • Dessert, coffee, tea.

 

  1. The Canelones Wine Region

Uruguay, often overshadowed by its wine-producing neighbors, Argentina and Chile, is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America. The Canelones wine region, located in the southern part of the country, is the epicenter of the country’s wine production and has been steadily gaining recognition for its exceptional wines. Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the capital city of Montevideo, Canelones is a region characterized by a temperate maritime climate, rolling hills, and fertile soils that provide an ideal environment for producing world-class wines.

History and Terroir.  The Canelones wine region is Uruguay’s oldest and most prominent wine-producing area. Wine grapes have grown here for over 250 years, although commercial viniculture did not begin until the second half of the 19th Century when a wave of European immigrants brought rootstock and vines of different varietals to the country.  The original transplants of Tannat were called “Harriague” in honor of the French Basque settler who introduced the varietal. Over the past few decades Uruguayan wine has emerged quietly and steadily onto the world market. In the past, most of the wine was table wine, produced mainly for the domestic market; but from the year 2000 onward, the consumption of table wine has declined year after year, and the production and consumption of high-quality wine has increased.  Currently Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America, however a relatively small share (10%) of its wine is exported.

Canelones is responsible for 60% of the country’s wine production. It is therefore not only the epicenter of the Uruguayan wine industry, but for Tannat as well, with more of the variety planted within the department than anywhere else on Earth. The region owes its success to the combination of favorable climatic conditions, exceptional terroir, and a long growing season with ample sunlight, making it well-suited for the slow ripening of the fruit.  It benefits from the temperate maritime climate which is characterized by cool breezes and a significant temperature range between day and night — both essential for the development of complex flavors in the grapes.  Proximity to the Atlantic Ocean also results in refreshing acidity and mineral notes in white wines, and a softer tannin structure in red wines. Likewise, the Atlantic breeze plays a role in reducing the risk of pests and diseases in the vineyards; and the thick skin of the Tannat grape is impervious to the mildew that so readily affects more delicate varieties, allowing for sustainable and organic farming practices.

One of the most interesting assets of Uruguay is the wide diversity of soils. Uruguay has 99 classified soil types. The lengthy coastline on three sides of the country moderates the temperature and the absence of mountains exposes the landscape to weathering and erosion that has resulted in a relatively flat topography and formulated a variety of soil types throughout the country. The viticultural areas of the south have the deepest, most fertile soils. The Canelones region is characterized by diverse terroirs, including clay-rich soils, limestone, and sandy loam. The presence of volcanic rock and weathered granite helps to promote drainage.  These varied soil types, along with the maritime influence and microclimates, allow winemakers to craft a wide spectrum of wines, from elegant and fruit-forward to structured and powerful.

The grape varietals: No summary of Uruguayan wine is complete without mention of Tannat, the robust, tannic red that has played such a pivotal role in the country’s rising wine status. Just as Chile has its Carmenere and Argentina its Malbec, so Tannat has become Uruguay’s ‘icon’ grape.

Tannat was originally known for its harsh tannins, high acidity and dark fruit that was nearly undrinkable upon release, but in Uruguay, vintners have found methods to soften the tannins and create powerful wines that taste of plums and blackberries. In addition to these fruit flavors, Tannat, when blended with other varieties, or produced in capable winemaking hands, tends to show off more complex notes of herbs, chocolate, leather, earth, and minerals.

Originally from southwest France, Tennat has found a second home in Uruguay and accounts for some 27 percent of the country’s plantings.  The grape needs some humidity to balance its tannin, sugar, and acidity, otherwise, the sugars accumulate before the skin ripens; hence it thrives in the country’s favorable maritime climate, producing wines with intense dark red, bluish, and almost black color, often with violet reflections; and aromas of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and earthy undertones. In the best varietal examples, the tannins are strong but supple. These wines are often characterized by their robust structure and longevity, making them a unique representation of the region as a single varietal or in interesting blends.

While Tannat takes the lead, winemakers in the region have also started experimenting with other grape varieties, resulting in a growing portfolio of varietals that include Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah. These grapes add diversity to the region’s wine offerings, catering to a broader range of palates.

Wineries and Viticulture. Canelones is home to some 900 vineyards, many of which are family owned. These wineries often emphasize sustainable and organic practices, contributing to the region’s reputation for producing environmentally conscious wines. Larger commercial operations and boutique producers also contribute to the region’s dynamic winemaking landscape.  Nonetheless, until recently, the world has taken little notice of Uruguayan wine. Very little is exported (up to 10% nationally) and winemaking is largely focused on the domestic market. In contrast to Argentina and Chile, Uruguay has few internationally recognized successes. Top producers such as Bodega Bouza, Garzon, Juanicó, and Pizzorno are newcomers in the international wine scene. These winemakers are investing in better equipment and technology and are known for their distinct winemaking styles and top-quality wines.  As a result of better quality, the exports of these producers have increased. Bouza now exports 60% of its production, and Garzon ships out 73%, mainly to the United States.

 

  1. The Wines

 Wine #1. Pizzorno Capital, ‘Tannat Maceración Carbónica’, 2020

Producer: Pizzorno Family Estates.  Established in 1910, Pizzorno is a key producer in Canelones.  Pizzorno’s mission is to produce “grapes of excellent quality, to obtain fine wines in limited series – the result of an acquired winemaking style that combines art and technology”.  The winery has one of the most innovative portfolios in the region with Uruguay’s first carbonic maceration Tannat wines and ice wines. This fourth-generation family producer may be groundbreaking in their winemaking, but they also respect the century-long tradition of the family wine business.  With 21 hectares of vineyards in Canelones, Pizzorno only uses Estate fruit in their wines.  Pizzorno’s vineyards are located on a gentle slope with shallow, clay loam soils and calcareous material, and planted with Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Arinarnoa, Marselan, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Moscatel de Hamburgo.  Vineyard management is focused on green harvesting and careful canopy management to achieve full ripeness and the best quality grapes. All the grapes are hand harvested and the winemakers carefully choose the harvest date based on sensorial and chemical analysis of the grapes.

The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2020
  • Variety:  100% Tannat.
  • Vinification: carbonic maceration; aged in bottle for 2 yrs.
  • Alcohol 13.5%.
  • Press and Points:  91 pts., Tim Atkin; 92 Pts., Descorchados.

Winemaker notes:  Bright and fresh because of how it’s made, this wine is lean for a Tannat. Carbonic maceration is an ancient vinification technique that has its origin in Greece and Rome.  Carbonic maceration keeps the wine’s fruit flavors extra fresh and intense, with less tannin and overall extraction. It works like this: whole grape clusters are harvested and transported to the winery in 10kg boxes to preserve the integrity of the grape.  The grape clusters are next placed in a large concrete tank that is sealed for 20 days. The grapes on the bottom get crushed under the weight of those above them, and they start to ferment naturally from the yeast on the skins. As CO2 is released, it pushes out oxygen and keeps the grapes fresh. Eventually, so much CO2 builds up that the rest of the grapes’ skins burst. Hence, carbonic maceration! Pizzorno is the only commercial winery to process the Tannat grape this way.   This technique produces a lively, juicy, and subtly herbaceous wine which has a soft palate due to decreased acidity, while increasing the extraction of aromas. Following the fermentation process, the wine is parked in the bottle for 2 years.

Tasting notes: light ruby color with violet reflections and medium intensity. Red fruits such as raspberry or cherry and banana on the nose. On the mouth, balanced, smooth, balanced acidity, low intensity of tannins.

 

Wine #2. Bouza ‘Albarino’ 2022

Producer: Bodega Bouza. Without a doubt, the leading winery for tourism in this region is Bouza. The Bouza family are true visionaries. They pioneered fine wines in Uruguay, were the first to plant Albariño there, and opened Uruguay’s first fine-dining winery restaurant.

Juan and Eliza Bouza are relatively new to the wine industry, having co-founded the project with renowned Uruguayan winemaker Eduardo Boido in 2000. From the very beginning, Bouza has focused on making premium wines and over the last ten years has established itself as Uruguay’s most critically acclaimed producer.

What’s interesting about Bouza’s story is how, even as new producers, they looked to their ancestors to pave their path in wine. Coming from families of Galician descent, and with some extended family still in Rias Baixas, they asked their family for Galician vines and planted Albariño in Canelones and Montevideo in 2001. This rather inspired move saw them not only make the first Albariño wines in South America, but ignite an important Albariño movement in Uruguay, which is undoubtedly the rising star of Uruguay’s white wines.

The success of Bouza’s Albariño has also encouraged the winery to expand farther afield, planting new vineyards in the rare syenite soils of Pan de Azúcar, and a hilltop vineyard on poor, volcanic soils in Las Espinas in the Maldonado region. But for now, the lion’s share of Bouza’s wines still comes from the traditional wine regions of Canelones and Montevideo, where they have three vineyards, including their prized vineyard in Las Violetas.

To increase biodiversity and reinforce the balance between pests and their natural enemies, Bouza alternates grapes with rows of plant cover composed of herbs characteristic of the Uruguayan natural meadow. The harvest begins in early February with the Pinot Noir variety, followed by our white varieties Albariño, Chardonnay and Riesling; then continues with the Merlot and Tempranillo tints, usually ending in mid-March with the emblematic variety of Uruguay, Tannat.

 

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Variety: 100% Albarino
  • Appellation: Canelones
  • Vinification: 90% fermented in stainless steel tanks and 10% in French Oak barrels; aged 4 months over its lees; unfiltered,
  • Alcohol 13.5%.
  • Points and Press: 92 Points, James Suckling; 92 Points, Tim Atkin;               95 Points, Descorchados.

Winemaker notes: If you take Rias Baixas in Galicia, Spain – where this grape is from – and transposed it west and south to the coast of South America, you’d end up in Uruguay! For this reason, Albariño does well there. This Albarino is super fresh, with minerals adding extra waxiness in the mid-palate. Gala apple and salinity are the two flavors that define this wine. The recommended serving temperature is 54oF.

Tasting notes: Pale yellow color, with golden highlights. Aromas of peach and white flowers, pineapple, and pear.  Moving the glass, pineapple enhances its presence, vanilla and caramel appear. Sweet entrance in the mouth with a slow evolution and a balanced acidity. Long finish.

 

Wine #3. Bouza Tannat 2019

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Variety:  100% Tannat
  • Viticulture: Grapes are sourced from three maritime influenced    sites: Melilla, a fairly cool climate site that surrounds the winery;           Las Violetas, a warmer, clay driven site; and Pan de Azucar.
  • Vinification: fermented for 12 days at 79oF degrees in steel tanks,              then aged for 16 months in French and American oak barrels.
  • Appellation: Canelones
  • Alcohol 14.5%.
  • Points and Press:  93 Points, James Suckling; 93 Points, Uncorked.

Winemaker notes: Tannat literally means “Tannic,” but not as a warning. Instead, it signals that wines made from this grape will have a distinctly textural expression, giving the wine more contour and size. Wild dark fruits abound, and the wine also sees oak, adding herbal notes and smoothing the tannins. James Suckling observed that this wine is a “complex, engaging expression of Tannat, showing dark, meaty fruit, black spices, some black earth, tar and hints of cocoa powder and oyster sauce. Medium-to full-bodied and juicy with fine-grained tannins and a lengthy finish. Showing power, natural concentration and good precision.”  The grapes were grown in the clay and limestone soils of the Melilla and Las Violetas vineyards and handpicked between March 6-18, 2019.  The recommended serving temperature is 60o F.

Tasting notes:  Intense red color. Fruit aromas include raspberry and blackberry.  Notes of quince and tobacco. Balanced acidity, good volume, and present tannins. Very long finish. Garnet red color with petrol highlights. Very expressive in the nose with black fruits, mulberries, cassis, raisins, over an elegant smoky background. Velvety but marked tannins. Balanced and persistent final bouquet.

 

Wine # 4. Bouza ‘Tannat A6 Parcela Unica’, 2018

  • Vintage:2018
  • Variety: 100% Tannat
  • Appellation: Canelones
  • Viticulture: Grapes sourced from single parcel in Melilla. Dry      farmed for maximum depth of flavor in the finished wine.
  • Vinification: Manual selection of the grapes. Controlled        fermentation at 26oC, with 2 pump overs and 1 pipeage a day.      Total maceration 12 days. 17 months in new French and American               oak barrels.
  • Alcohol: 16%.
  • Points and Press:  90 Wine Enthusiast, 93 points Descorchados

Winemaker notes: This wine is a single parcel Tannat that Bouza considers one of its masterpieces. The quality of fruit here is exceptional, but it’s the tannins and overall texture of the wine that’s sublime.  According to Vivino, the wine is currently the #1 “top Uruguay Tannat wine in the United States.”  Sourced from Melilla, the relatively cool-climate vineyard that surrounds the winery, planted rows are uniquely topped with two feet of pink granite from a local quarry to collect and radiate additional heat for these grapes. This bottling showcases the savory/smoky/earthy side of Tannat, and is one of the richest, balanced, most memorable examples of single-vineyard Tannat produced in Uruguay.  Wine Enthusiast notes that… “coffee and black fruit aromas shape the nose and lead to flavors of grass and plum. Oak flavors are slightly intense but well integrated. It has a full body, smooth tannins, and a long finish with hints of black olive and nutmeg”. It can be conserved for 12-15 years. The recommended serving temperature is between 16-18o C.

Tasting notes: Intense purple color. Plum raisins aroma. Quince marmalade and toasted notes.  Balanced mouth, with big volume and smooth tannins. Long finish.

  1. CV Members rating:     

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. Fifteen participants rated them from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.

Bouza ‘Tannat’, 2019 was rated the Best Wine and the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

This post draws heavily on these sources:

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-uruguay

https://pizzornowines.com/en/

https://bodegabouza.com/vinedos/

https://www.grandcata.com/home

https://southamericawineguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/SAWG_mapas-Uruguay-Page-2.jpg

Uruguay:  The Little Wine Country that Could.  March 11,2022/updated June 2023.  https://worldoffinewine.com/news-features/uruguay-the-little-wine-country-that-could#:~:text=Uruguay%27s%20wine%20regions-,Canelones,most%20populous%20city%20of%20Uruguay.

Team Haverkate.  Uruguay’s Wine Regions:  Exploring the Country’s Vineyard.  https://www.realestate-in-uruguay.com/blog/uruguays-wine-regions-exploring-the-countrys-vineyard/

Amanda Barnes.  Canelones:  The Heartland of Uruguayan Wine.  July 2016.  https://aroundtheworldin80harvests.com/2016/07/19/uruguayan-wine-uruguay-canelones/

The Most Spectacular Winery Restaurants in South America. September 2023.  https://cluboenologique.com/story/best-south-american-winery-restaurants/

Zraly, M. DeSimone & J. Jenssen. Red Wine: The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties and Styles. New York: Sterling Epicure. 2017.

Taming the Tannat:  Uruguayan Wine Gets a Makeover.  June 2021.  https://www.jamessuckling.com/wine-tasting-reports/taming-the-tannat-uruguayan-wine-gets-makeover/

.o0o.

 

The world’s problems began when white-striped zebras began to hate black-striped zebras.

Os problemas do mundo começaram quando as zebras de listras brancas começaram a odiar as zebras de listras pretas.

.o0o.

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Tasting #258 – October 31, 2023 – Wines from PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Posted on October 19, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting #258 – October 31, 2023 – Wines from PATAGONIA, Argentina.

  Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Testing overview

The wine production of PATAGONIA, Argentina.

 

Patagonia is South America’s southernmost wine-producing region. Despite being one of the world’s least-obvious places for quality viticulture, this desert region – with its cool, dry climate – has proved itself well suited to producing elegant red wines from Pinot Noir and Malbec.

The cooler climate in Patagonia is ideal for wines like Pinot Noir and Merlot.

The geographical region covers a vast area – around twice the size of California – across southern Argentina and Chile. Patagonia is more closely associated with dinosaurs and desert than with fine wine production.

The total land under vine in Patagonia is less than 10,000 acres or about 4,000 hectares, which represents about 2% of the total planted in Argentina.

However, the viticultural zone stretches 300 kilometers (200 miles) along the Neuquen and Rio Negro rivers, from Anelo in the west to Choele Choel in the east. The zone is closer to the Andes Mountains than to the Atlantic Ocean, but is at a much lower altitude than its northern cousin of Mendoza, averaging about 300 metres (1000 feet) above sea level.

Patagonia is a desert, and viticulture is possible only near the rivers, where meltwater from the Andes is abundant for irrigation. The classic desert climate of warm days and cold nights extends the growing season in the region, slowing ripening in the grapes and letting them develop rich varietal character while retaining acidity.

Patagonia has gained recognition within the wine world due to the two viticultural regions located in its northern section: the more-established Rio Negro and the newer, still developing Neuquen. Wines from these two zones are traditionally more European in style than those from the central and northern regions of Argentina, as a result of the areas’ cooler climate and higher latitude.

There are a number of factors which mean that the wines produced in Patagonia wine region are some of the most complex, characterful and excellent Argentinian wines. These factors include the climate, temperature range, strong winds and long periods of sunshine during the ripening season.

The red wines of the Patagonia wine region are complex with intense colors and excellent typicity. Wine lovers are giving increased attention to the La Pampa area of Patagonia where excellent Cabernet Franc wines are produced. These wines have added to the catalogue of diverse wines produced in Patagonia and have hints of red fruit, elegant tannins, and tasting notes of pepper. The Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon red wines of Patagonia are grown at higher altitudes in the region where the soils are stony and irrigation levels are higher. This allows for the production of fruitier wines with intense colors and refined tannins. Patagonian Merlot wines are described as smooth and balanced with intense aromas. The Malbec of the region has an intense ruby color with aromas of black cherries, lavender, biscuits, and spices. The palate of the wine is dry with refreshing acidity, a medium body, balanced flavors, and ripe tannins. While Malbec still plays a central role in Patagonian wine, it is Pinot Noir that has become the region’s iconic grape variety.

Patagonian wines pair well with regional dishes and local ingredients. Given the cool climate, the wines often exhibit freshness and vibrant acidity, making them ideal with grilled lamb, game meats, salmon, trout, and local cheeses.

Excellent white wines made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling also showcase the freshness of the region’s climate.

Patagonia’s location in the southern latitudes and its cool climate contribute to the production of elegant and expressive wines. The region’s temperature variations, longer growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts create favorable conditions for producing wines with freshness, complexity, and vibrant acidity.

Guillermo Barzi Canale  “Patagonia is synonymous of mountains, lakes, desert, glaciers, land of dinosaurs, magic, purity and also elegant and sophisticated wines.”

Type of testing: Open

Presenter: Jaime Estupiñán

Participants:       S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; R. Connolly; C. Estrada;J. Estupiñan; J. Garcia; N.  Marzella; C. and A. Perazza; L. J. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; G. Vega, and G. Zincke.   

The Wines

  1. Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc, 2022. Rio Negro, Patagonia (JS 92)
  2. Pinot Noir 2021, Neuquen Patagonia. (JS 93).
  3. Wapisa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019, Patagonia, Argentina. (JS 92).
  4. Humberto Canale Gran Reserva Merlot 2019, Rio Negro Argentina.

Menu

  • Seafood salad.
  • Agnolotti with tomato sauce.
  • Grilled Lamb shops, potatoes and vegetables.
  • Desert, coffee, tea.

 

Information on the Wines and the wineries

 

 1 –  WAPISA SAUVIGNON BLANC. 2022, Rio Negro, PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Winemaker Notes

With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region. Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.

James Suckling JS92

A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.

VINOUS: 89 PTS

Product Details

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Region: Patagonia, Argentina     Producer: Wapisa    Vintage: 2022   Size: 750ML    ABV: 13.8%      Features: Screw Cap

 Winemaker notes: With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region.

Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.

Critical Acclaim

James Suckling          JS92

A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.

Producer: Wapisa Winery

https://vinodelsol.com/?wpfb_dl=1793

Revolutionary is the word Patricia Ortiz, owner of Wapisa, uses to describe the winery. Not only is Wapisa the only Coastal Winery in Patagonia, but it is the only winery in Argentina to age wines under the sea. Inspired by the coastal influences, Patricia decided to incorporate the ocean into the aging process. The pressurized atmosphere with its constant temperature provides perfect conditions for aging wines.

“Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale.” Not only do whales frequent the nearby coast of the winery’s vineyards, but a local legend talks of a wapisa that actually lived on land. The wines, like the Wapisa, are an expression not just of their soils but of the nearby ocean as well.

Located in San Javier, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina, Wapisa is just 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and is the only winery that exists in this unique coastal terroir. Our vineyard “Finca Los Acantilados” is an estate that stands out for its lime clay soils, good acidity and little organic matter. The terroir is complemented by the outstanding thermal amplitude, highlighted by cool maritime breezes that sweep over the vineyards at night, leading to balanced and fruity wines with a touch of salinity and a delicate varietal expression. As Master of Wine Tim Atkin stated, this is “the new Argentina.”

Patricia and her winery are dedicated to preserving the land and the sea. The winery is not only follows sustainable practices, but Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the California Ocean Alliance California Ocean Alliance.

The wines are made by Jean Claude Berrouet the recently-retired winemaker of Chateau Petrus, having presided over 44 vintages at this revered Bordeaux winery. Every wine they produce has gotten huge press from The Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling.

 

2  –  KOSKIL  PINOT NOIR 2021, NEUQUEN, PATAGONIA.

Product Details

Country / State: Argentina     Region: Patagonia   Brand: Koskil  Wine Type: Red Wine       Varietal: Pinot Noir      Style: Elegant     ABV: 13.5%        Taste: Vanilla, Floral, Cherry        Body: Medium-bodied

Food Pairings: Beef, Pork, Chicken

Product Highlights

Rating Source: James Suckling-Patagonia Argentina, Points: 93: “Notes of cherries, wild strawberries, pomegranate peel and light spices. Fresh and crunchy with medium body and soft tannins. It has a smooth silky texture and a delicious fruit profile, with notes of blue flowers. Flavorful finish.” Vanilla, Floral, Cherry.

Average Rating         3.7       (231 Ratings)

Producer: Koskil Winery

Produced in Neuquén, Patagonia. Estate bottled. Bottled for Group PENAFLOR.

The Group PENAFLOR es el mayor productor y exportador de vinos de Argentina.

Bottle description: The early inhabitants of the remote lands of Patagonia believed in a supreme God named Kooch, whose breath originated strong wind that separated the waters from the earth. That blustery winds weeping across the Patagonia towards the Atlantic was called  Koskil, the wind that defines our terroir. It shapes our identity more than any other natural phenomenon. Its presence determine our features, our costumes, our life. Its dryness protect vines and preserve their health. And it gives our wine its name: Koskil.

3 – WAPISA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina.

Product Details

Country: Argentina       Region: Patagonia     Vintage: 2019    Winery: Wapisa     Grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon     Alcohol: 14.1%      Size: 750 ml     Organic wine: Yes       Natural wine: Yes

Winemaker Notes: Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate.

CRITICAL ACCLAIM

James Suckling – “Intense red color. Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Spicy aromas such as eucalyptus and black pepper. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate”

James Suckling         93 points ( 2017 y 2018)

Producer: Wapisa Winery. See information above.

4.   HUMBERTO CANALE GRAN RESERVA MERLOT 2019, RION NEGRO, PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Product details

Composition: Merlot varietal 100%        Origin: Old vineyards in General Roca, Upper Valley of Rio Negro, Patagonia.      Alcohol: 14.0%     Total acidity: 5.02 gr/L       Residual Sugar: 2.05 gr/L

Harvest: At the end of March. Carefully harvested by hand, immediately sent to cellar, distant to 1km from the vineyard, in small containers.     Yield: 7,000 Kgs/hectare.

Development: The grapes are received in small containers and a selection of clusters is carried out, after the destemming a cold pre-fermentation maceration is carried out for 48-72 HS, alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperature (25 ° to 27 º C) in cement vessels of 9000 Lts of capacity for a period of 20 days with periodic reassembly and Delestage. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent aging in new French and American oak barrels for a period of 12 months and then bottling. Period of storage in bottle for 6 months before marketing.

Guarda: 8 years.

Winemaker testing notes: Intense ruby red color, fruity and spices aromas. A modern, round, soft and subtle wine. No doubt Merlot is one of the varieties that best adapts to the particular climatic conditions of this region. In this case it is one of the few Argentinian Merlots produced with good concentration and important potential of Guarda. It has a bright and intense purple color. Warm, very intense and enveloping Aroma. It seduces by its complexity, highlighting the notes contributed by its passage in wood, which are mixed well with the red fruits contributed by the variety. In the mouth presents a powerful body, with a lot of concentration and very pleasant fruity flavor. Long end and pleasing remembrance. Its structure and potent tannins reveal an important potential of guard.

Pairing: Red meats such as lamb and Southern deer and pasta stuffed with meat sauces.

Producer: Humberto Canale Winery

Going through the history of the winery Humberto Canale is like traveling throughout the history of the upper valley of the Rio Negro: From its beginnings with the arrival of the railway and the irrigation canals, until the present day, eleven decades and five generations later.

The winery originated in 1909, shortly after the conquest of the Patagonian desert (between 1878 and 1885), when its founder, the engineer Humberto Canale, along with other governmental executives from President Roca’s administration (1898-1904) , went through the place to implement irrigation systems in the region

Humberto Canale Winery is located near General Roca city, in the heart of the Alto Valle of Rio Negro, Patagonia. It is a family company founded by Engineer Humberto Canale in 1909. Four generations later, the founder’s wisdom regarding handmade processes is combined with the most updated techniques, and the result is the production of fine wines of international quality. At present the winery is managed by Engineer Guillermo Barzi Canale. The company owns 150 has. The old vineyards where traditional French varieties are found: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon among the red ones, and Semillón, Sauvignon Blanc Viognier and Torrontés among the white ones.

The grapes generally ripen twenty days later than in the Cuyo region. This happens at the beginning of autumn, when the days are warm and the nights are cold; a slow maturation occurs and the grapes reach an excellent balance between sugar and natural acidity. The combination of these factors produces wines of great intensity of color and character. Finally, we include a quotation by the enologists’ master, Mr. Raul de la Mota: “In Rio Negro, wines as famous as the French ones may be produced. The grapes of that Argentine region are excellent, vigorous and with peculiar features that are different from those of the rest of the country. Among others, I was amazed with the Pinot Noir and the Cabernet varieties. This region has a specific enological personality and a highly valuable viticulture may be developed in it.”

Currently, the Humberto Canale establishment has 5000 hectares, 150 of vineyards and the rest of fruit trees that is sold in the market as an PAI partner

The winery produces 1,500,000 kilograms of grapes per year, has a capacity of more than 1,700.000 bottles  per year and storage capacity for 3,200,000 liters. The varietals: Franc, Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot Pinot Noir, Riesling ,Sauvignon Blanc, Semillón.

Additional information on the Patagonia Argentina.

Guide to the Patagonia Region  

Move over Mendoza. Patagonia is the new Malbec producing kid in Argentina. This may seem unlikely, since Patagonia’s wine regions are so far south. In fact, they’re the southernmost regions in the world. Yet since the 1990s, there’s been an explosion of investment here, as it has attracted some of the biggest names in international luxury winemaking.

Patagonia is home to three important sub-regions. Out of this trio, only Río Negro had a viticultural history pre-1990s. Unlike the others, its vineyard area is declining as growers swap quality for quantity. By contrast, vineyard land increased by 82 percent in the Neuquén subregion and by 73 percent in the La Pampa subregion between 2002 and 2012.

Argentina’s signature red grape, Malbec, is Patagonia’s preferred variety and makes up about 40 percent of its more than 4500ha/11,000acres of cultivated vineyards. The area’s vineyards are planted between 300 and 500 meters (985 to 1,640 feet) above sea level, which allows the grapes to be cooled by Andean winds rather than altitude. Patagonia’s wide diurnal temperature swings also make it an inviting region for white varieties.

The Complex and Characterful Wines of Patagonia Wine Region

Travel Guide to Patagonia Wine Region

Patagonia is the southernmost wine-producing wine region in Argentina. This winemaking region spans the provinces of Rio Negro, La Pampa, and Neuquen. Patagonia wine region is often overlooked for viticulture as a result of its desert landscapes and cool, dry climates which do not seem suitable for the cultivation of vines. Despite this, over time Patagonia wineries have become internationally acclaimed for the production of elegant red wines made from Pinot Noir and Malbec grapes. Patagonia wine region is fast becoming one of the most well-recognized wine regions in Argentina thanks to its excellent and high-quality wines and interesting landscapes. This unique and interesting winemaking region is the perfect place to explore the best Argentinean wines.

Rio Negro and Neuquen  

The two most well-known areas of viticulture in Patagonia wine region are Rio Negro and Neuquen. The wines produced in these two regions are traditionally European in character. Neuquen is located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, while Rio Negro is located higher up on Patagonia mountains slopes.

 

RioNegro Region

Rio Negro is the most southerly wine region in South America, located in the north of the Patagonia region. The climate is cooler than in much of the rest of Argentina and elegant, cool-climate styles of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec are produced here.

The Rio Negro River is formed at the convergence of the Andean meltwater rivers Neuquen and Limay and then flows 530km (310 miles) to the Atlantic Ocean in the east. In the 1820s, British colonists dug irrigation channels into the dry, arid Patagonian desert on both sides of the Negro, forming a green belt along the river that is suitable for agriculture.

While viticulture is a significant part of this, the Rio Negro is most famous for the apple and pear orchards that are found along its banks. The Rio Negro valley is divided roughly into three: the Alto Valle (in the west), the Valle Medio and the Valle Inferior (closest to the ocean).

Most viticulture takes place in the Alto Valle, around the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay, on the edge of the Neuquen province (whose western border sits on the peaks of the Andes). The mountains have little influence on the vineyards here, however; it is the river that contributes the most to the region’s terroir.

The dry climate has proved itself well suited to the growth of Vitis vinifera. Hot summers and cold winters ensure a consistency of climate that allows viticulturists a degree of predictability in the harvest.

While the altitude is very low by Argentinean standards – around 250m (820ft) above sea level – the region is still subject to a pronounced diurnal temperature variation, where warm days are followed by cold nights. This lengthens the growing season and leads to a balance of rich fruit characters and acidity in the wines.

Rio Negro’s soils are mostly alluvial, and are made up of gravel with a considerable limestone component. These are well drained, so growers are able to carefully control the water intake and growth of their vines through irrigation. Slightly parched vines put resources into producing small, concentrated berries rather than luxurious, leafy foliage.

Rio Negro is one of Argentina’s up-and-coming wine regions, and more and more producers are exploring its viticultural potential.

Rio Negro: Patagonia Wine’s Heart and Soul

If there is an epicenter to Patagonia wine, it would have to be Rio Negro, a fertile river valley which has been under vine for more than a century. As a result, Rio Negro is home to some of the oldest vineyards in the region, a feature that has attracted many of Argentina’s brightest winemaking talents.

While wine can be made just about anywhere, fine wine requires a specific set of conditions, and Rio Negro has all of them: Low humidity. Warm, dry summers. Cool nights that allow the grapes to retain acidity. Relatively austere soils poor in organic matter. The list goes on.

Rio Negro has two additional advantages not found in many other fine wine regions.

First, wind is omnipresent. Wind keeps the grapes dry, which reduces the risk of fungal disease. Second, Rio Negro’s latitude — between 38 and 42° South — means that it gets an extra hour of sunshine during the growing season than other wine regions such as Mendoza. Sunshine is critical for color and flavor development, and Rio Negro has it in abundance.

Neuquen Region

Neuquen is a very young wine-producing region on the Patagonian plains of southern Argentina. Wine has been made here on a commercial scale only since the early 2000s, but the region has already shown both significant growth and promise. The region produces wine ranging from good-value to ultra-premium, mostly from Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Officially, the province of Neuquen covers a large area of northern Patagonia, just to the south of Argentina’s most prolific wine region of Mendoza. The Andes mountain range runs up the western side of the province, separating Argentina from Chile, and the border with Rio Negro covers both the southern and eastern boundaries of Neuquen.

In practice, winemaking is contained to a area of 1,400 hectares (3,500 acres) surrounding the small town of San Patricio del Chana on the Neuquen River. Around 85 percent of grape production from the area is given over to red varieties with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir best suited to the terroir. Popular white varieties are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The first commercial vineyards in the region were planted as recently as 1999, after wine producers were encouraged by the international success of the wines of Mendoza. A large area of land on the edge of the Neuquen River was developed and planted with vines – the first large-scale vintage being released in 2003.

The pioneering winery that developed the land, Bodega del Fin del Mundo, has since sold off pockets to other premium producers, encouraging the growth of Neuquen as a wine region in the past decade.

The Neuquen viticultural region is markedly different from most of the rest of Argentina. Elevations here reach only about 300 meters (1,000feet)  above sea level – relatively low for a country where the highest vineyards are found at altitudes of around 3,000m (10,000ft). The climate is significantly cooler than in Mendoza, and the Andes, 240 kilometers (150 miles) to the west, have little to no effect on viticulture in Neuquen.

Strong desert winds and hot sun combine to provide a climate in Neuquen that is sufficiently temperate for viticulture. Warm, sunny days are followed by brisk desert nights, and the diurnal temperature variation that results extends the growing season. This allows the grapes time to develop fruit complexity without sacrificing acidity, and the wines are well balanced as a result.

This windy part of the desert is fed by the Neuquen River, which brings meltwater from the Andes to hydrate the vineyards. The stony alluvial soils are well drained, and allow root systems to grow deeply into the ground in order to access important minerals and hydration. The healthy vines that result produce high-quality grapes with an excellent concentration of sugars and acids.

6. CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the
tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

 

CV Members Rating

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

References

 https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-patagonia

https://www.winetourism.com/wine-region/patagonia/

https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/pinot-noir/koskil-pinot-noir-patagonia/p/240888750

https://vinodelsol.com/thewineries/wapisa/

https://www.plummarket.com/store/2019-wapisa-cabernet-sauvignon-patagonia-019-0.html

https://bodegahcanale.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/FICHA-HCgranReserva-Merlot-Ingl.pdf

https://winesofargentina.org/en/winery/humberto-canale

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-rio+negro

https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-neuquen

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Laughing Matter:

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Tasting No 257– September 26, 2023 – Wines of Casablanca Valley, Chile

Posted on September 18, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

 Tasting No 257– September 26, 2023 – Wines of Casablanca Valley, Chile

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 1.Tasting Overview

Casablanca Valley is a small wine-growing region located 75 kilometers northwest of Santiago, only a few miles off the coast in central Chile, and the area falls within the Aconcagua Region. The main objective of the tasting is to explore the main types of wine produced in this area.

 

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters:  Marcello Averbug

Participants:      R. Arroio; M. Averbug; L. Boccalandro; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. Garcia; C. & A. Perazza; L. & J. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; P. Turina; and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

  • Veramont ‘Ritual’ Chardonnay, 2019.
  • Montsecano ‘Refugio’ Pinot Noir, 2021.
  • Montsecano, Pinot Noir, 2018.
  • Cono Sur, ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir, 2019.

 Menu

  • Grilled calamari
  • Eggplant parmegiana
  • Dark cheken with mashed potato
  • Dessert, coffee, tea

  1. The Casablanca Valley

View of the Casablanca Valley (@ wine-searcher.com)

Casablanca Valley’s first vineyards were planted in the 1980’s during the revitalization of the Chilean wine industry. The vineyards, then, expanded around the industrial town of Casablanca and vineyards now dominate the valley’s landscape, despite a lack of water for irrigation that has delayed vineyard planting.

The Valley runs for 19 miles east to west from a coastal region 30 km from the Pacific Ocean, to the neighboring region of Valparaiso. This unique geography is what makes the valley’s wines so distinctive. Until the 1980’s most vineyards were planted in warm areas, but the Casablanca Valley have an extremely cool climate.

In recent years, the Casablanca Valley has emerged as a major wine tour destination, given its proximity to the Chilean capital, the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.  

As the region is strongly influenced by the cooling effects of the Humboldt Current, which flows up the west coast of Chile from the Antarctic. Cooling afternoon breezes blow from the ocean towards the mountains in the east, filling the vacuum created by warm air rising in the east. There is plenty of cloud cover, mitigating some of the harsh summer temperatures. Grapes are able to ripen longer, resulting in much more intense and complex wines.

For the last decade Casablanca has became increasingly affected by drought, meaning it’s now more difficult to access water for irrigation. This poses a real threat to producers who are focused on high yield grape growing. The head of Matetic Vineyards says: “massive wine production will be unfeasible in Casablanca; the future lies in small wine production with focus on high quality wines”.

Given that the first vineyards were planted in the Casablanca Valley in the 1980s, the growth of this wine region has been truly spectacular. It is now known as Chile’s top white wine region, producing some of the finest Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the entire country. In addition, Pinot Noir is popular and very good. The high quality in wine production also results from the ability of growers to adhere to sustainable viticultural practices.

This duo of white varieties have given the region recognition as one of Chile’s top quality wine regions. It has attracted considerable investment from wine companies based in other Chilean regions, who were looking to boost their white wine portfolio, as well as from abroad.

It is the cooler climate that makes Casablanca’s white wines stand out from their local rivals. With a longer ripening period, the white grapes have more time to develop greater flavor complexity, while maintaining sugars and acids in balance, resulting in much more intense and complex wines.. This cool climate, while undoubtedly beneficial, is not without its dangers – crops have been seriously damaged in the past by severe frosts in spring.

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir account for 90% of grape availability in this region, while several others are produced in very small quantities.

The main vineyards of Casablanca Valley are: Mar Vineyard; Viña House Casa del Vino; Catrala Vineyard; Veramonte Vineyard; Bodega Montsecano; Viña Cono Sur; Indomita Vineyard; Casas del Bosque Vineyard; Emiliana Vineyard; William Cole Vineyard; Matetic Vineyard; Loma Larga Vineyard; Quintay Vineyard; Kingstone Vineyard; El Cuadro Vineyard; and Casa Valle Viñamar.

 

  1. Information About the Wines

Wine #1. Ritual  Chardonnay, 2019

The producer: Viñedos Veramonte was founded in 1992 and dedicated to farming organically. It is one of the pioneers of the Casablanca Valley and has been recognized for over 25 years for its distinctive wines.

In partnership with the Municipality of Casablanca, they carry out a program to benefit small rural farmers in the community, to improve the soils of their vineyards through regeneration, which included selection of beneficiaries, teamwork workshops, plot allotment, constant training in organic agriculture, and assistance with application for public funds and product sales support, among others. From the proceeds of wine sales a percentage is donated to non-profit-organization to promote regenerative agriculture aimed at increasing biodiversity, enrich soils, improve watersheds and enhance ecosystem services.

Veramonte vineyards has four brands: Veramonte and Ritual, from Casablanca, and Primus and Neyen, in Apalta, Colchagua Valley: all examples of quality Chilean wine made from organic grapes grown in their own vineyards.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal composition: 100% Chardonnay
  • Viticulture: Grapes are hand-picked at night, maximizing freshness and vibrancy with whole cluster pressing.
  • Vinification: 20% concrete eggs, 20% new 400lts barrels, 60% neutral oak. A portion of the fruit is whole cluster fermented in concrete eggs, increasing texture and fruit flavors. The rest ferments in oak barrels, delivering structure, complexity and silkiness. After fermentation, we stir the lees regularly, in order to achieve maximum expression.
  • Alcohol: 14%

Winemaker Notes: An elegant wine of yellow-green color, with expressive aromas of grapefruit, tangerine, pear and quince, and soft hazelnut notes intertwined with subtle hints of oak and vanilla. Soft, elegant and creamy texture with remarkable roundness and a long finish. Its aging in barrels provides body and complexity, which combine perfectly with its fresh, crisp and vibrant acidity. The careful work with lees gives it a soft and silky texture.

Critics scores: 91 pts. (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate); 87 pts. (Wine Enthusiasts); 93 pts. Patricio Tapia – Descorchados).

Wine #2. Montesecano, ‘Refugio’ Pinot Noir, 2021

        The producer: Bodega Montsecano is a collaboration between Ostertag of the legendary Domaine Ostertag, in Alsace, and Julio Donoso of Chile, which started in 2005. They planted 4 hectares of Pinot Noir in Las Dichas, Casablanca, and built a small winery and cellar on the property.  The vineyard is biodynamically farmed and is plowed by horse. The undergound geothermal winery is shaped like an egg, and the wine are vinified exclusively in concrete egg and stainless steel. 

Montsecano participate in the community called Raw Wine or ‘natural wine’, who grow/make/sell/drink clean wine cultivated in a clean environment – pure, fermented grape juice with few, if any, additives, grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides or fungicides. Many believe that they produce two of the most highly regarded expressions of Pinot Noir in all of Chile. 

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Varietal composition: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: single Vineyard Refugio; biodynamic farming practices
  • Vinification: 100% destemmed; native yeast; organic, élevage in concrete egg then in 5000L concrete tanks; unfiltered/unfined. Aged three months in bottle prior to release.
  • Alcohol: 12.8%

Winemaker Notes: The wine shows bright raspberry, strawberry jam, with rose petals, violets, and a light component of baking bread. Extremely vibrant with a some green notes and a light, glassy, soft and smooth mid-palate. The light tannin cradles the wine and lends itself to the refreshing acidity with a long, jam influenced finish. Dark ripe cherry and black fruits jump out of the glass with underlying raspberry fruit notes. Rich full fruit, mineral driven, with a long, generous, smooth finish.

Tasting notes: “The 2021 Refugio Pinot Noir has a bright ruby color and an expressive nose, mixing notes of flowers and a meaty touch. It has contained ripeness, good balance and a medium-bodied palate with clean and supple flavors and the granite texture in the mouthfeel. Wild Pinot Noir.” (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate)

A pretty nose of cherries, strawberries, plums, smoke, cedar and violets. Medium-to full-bodied with fine, silky tannins and vibrant acidity. Focused and textured with chiseled character and a flavorful, spicy finish.

Critics scores: 94 pts. (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate); 94 pts. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados)

 

Wine #3. Montsecano Pinot Noir, 2018

The producer: Bodega Montsecano

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2018
  • Varietal composition:100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: vineyard Montsecano; biodynamic farming practices;
  • Vinification: native yeast; organic, élevage in concrete egg then in 5000L concrete tanks;     unfiltered/unfined
  • Alcohol: 12%

      Winemaker Notes: From the same producer Bodega Montsecano, this 100% biodynamic hand harvested, single vineyard Pinot Noir is fermented  and aged entirely in stainless steel and concrete eggs. Dark ripe cherry and black fruits jump out of the glass with underlying raspberry fruit notes. A condensed and dark spiraling mid-palate shows layers of minerality and complexity, with hints of wet crushed rock (granite), sage, clove and blueberry . Rich full fruit, mineral driven, with a long, generous, smooth finish.

Tasting notes: ”the wine has a moderate 12% alcohol, reflecting the character of the year and the earlier picking, with red acid berry aromas, a floral touch and  depth and complexity. It’s subtle, has detail and elegance and is clean and focused, with very fine tannins and a very balanced palate with integrated acidity. It’s harmonious and elegant.” (Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate).

The nose is spectacular, a mix of wild herbs, flowers and berries, some rose petals and even a touch of citrus peel, coming through as aromatic and fresh. The palate is perhaps a tad lighter than previous vintages and perhaps a little more “natural.” But it has very good complexity, developing aromas of violets with time in the glass, and it has lots of freshness and balance.

Critics scores: 95 pts. (Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate); 95 Pts. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados);     92 pts. (Tim Atkin)

 

Wine #4. Cono Sur ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir, 2019

      The producer: Viña Cono Sur was founded in 1993 by Viña Concha y Toro in 1993 and is based in Cochagua Valley with the vision of an independent winery with a focus on premium, sustainable wines. Cono Sur prides itself on its pioneering and innovative spirit. It is particularly notable for its wines made from Pinot Noir, and in particular the flagship Ocio, but makes a range of wines from many of Chile’s key grape varieties. The estate has grown considerably since, and now Cono Sur makes wines in most of Chile’s key winegrowing regions. However, Cono Sur’s most important region is arguably the Casablanca Valley, where the Pinot Noir grapes for the Ocio wine are sourced. They were the first in Chile to produce and export Premium Pinot Noir.

 The wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal composition: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Viticulture: Vineyards Triángulo (85%) and San Antonio (15%); sandy clay soils, benefit from the cool maritime climate, retaining acidity while developing rich varietal character. Grapes are hand-harvested, hand-selected and crushed.
  • Vinification: uncrushed grapes underwent a one-week cold soak and then were foot trodden and inoculated with selected yeasts. Grapes are fermented and then put in new French oak barrels for malolactic for 8 months and then spent another 6-8 months- 70% in same barrels and 30% in 2000L foudre. Then wine is rested in stainless steel tanks for 4-8 weeks before being bottled and released.
  • Alcohol: 14 %

Winemaker Notes: A deep ruby red, this iconic Pinot Noir has great aromatic intensity expressing notes of red fruits and berries, with a touch of spices and tobacco. In mouth it is smooth and elegant, with a refined concentration and acidity. This wine pairs beautifully with red meats, duck, tuna and aged cheeses.

In “Robert Parker’s” opinion it has good freshness and balance. This wine is produced with the advice of French winemaker Martin Prieur from Burgundy. It’s akin to a modern Burgundy, with generous oak, some toasty notes and notes of orange peel and ripe cherries. It has kept vibrant acidity and comes through as medium to full-bodied with fine-grained tannins. It was bottled in June 2020. It has concentration, acidity and freshness to develop nicely in bottle.  Best After 2022.

Critics scores: 94 pts. (Robert Parker The Wine Advocate); 94 pts. (Tim Atkin); 94 pts. (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados).

 

CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 16 participants rated them from Acceptable to Excellent. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.

Cono Sur ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir 2019 was rated as Best Wine and Veramonte ‘Ritual Chardonnay 2019 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

REFERENCES:

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

https://www.conosur.com/en/

https://ritualwines.cl/

https://www.bowlerwine.com/producer/montsecano

Collection of pictures of Vineyards of Casablanca as presented by Marcelo Averbug

Main Vineyards of Casablanca Valley, Chile

Estimados amigos,

Al investigar los vinos de Casablanca descubrí que la mayoría de los viñedos de esta región son bastante lujosos y modernos. Por eso, además del blog del Club, pensé que sería importante destacar fotos de algunos de estos viñedos.

Ver la página adjunta en .pdf.

Vineyards of Casablanca

Marcelo Averbug

.o0o.

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Tasting No 256 – August 29, 2023, 12:30 PM Colchagua Valley, Chile

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 256 – August 29, 2023, 12:30 PM

Wines from Chile’s Colchagua Valley: The distinct combinations of Carménère from Casa Lapostolle

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Tasting overview

The main objective of this tasting is to compare various red wines from the same winery, two varietals and two red blends, but mostly based on the Carnénère grape.

Type of tasting: All wines will be presented and explained, but their prices will only be revealed at the end of the tasting and lunch.

The Wines:

  1. Lapostolle Couvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021

  2. Lapostolle Couvée Alexandre Carménère, 2021

  3. Clos Apalta Le Petit Clos, 2019

  4. Clos Apalta, 2018

Presenter: José Brakarz

Participants:  R. Arroio; J. Brakarz; M. Fryer; O. Mason; C. & A. Perazza; L. & J. Redwood; J. Requena; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; G. Smart; G. Zincke; and L. Uechi (guest).

Menu

  • Portobello al Forno
  • Fetuccini con Ragú di Vitelo
  • Beef Medallions with Brown Sauce
  • Dessert, coffee, tea

The Colchagua Valley and the Apalta Valley sub-region

The Colchagua Valley is a wine region in central Chile located about 150 miles south of Santiago. It is situated in the southern part of Chile’s Rapel Valley, with many of the best vineyards lying in the foothills of the Coastal Range. The valley is home to over 200 wineries, and it is one of the most important wine regions in Chile. It is well-regarded for exceptionally high-quality red wines.

The valley extends from near the base of the Andes Mountain all the way to the ocean, in a span of about 150 km. It has a mild Mediterranean climate, with marine breezes for cooling the vines. The valley’s slopes are quite steep on the margins of the coastal mountains, which are largely terraced for grape cultivation. The soil is predominantly granitic and well-draining. The valley’s diurnal temperature variance allows grapes to improve their aromatic profile while maintaining the optimum mix of ripeness and acidity. The  Tinguiririca River flows along the northern boundary of Colchagua.

The valley was first planted with grapes in the 16th century by Spanish missionaries. The valley’s wine industry began to grow rapidly in the 1980s and 1990s.  Heavy French investment and cutting-edge technology in both the vineyard and the winery has been a boon to the local viticultural industry, which already laid claim to ancient vines and a textbook Mediterranean climate. The warm, dry growing season in the Colchagua Valley favors robust reds made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Malbec and Syrah—in fact, some of Chile’s very best are made here.

The Colchagua Valley region is known for its Bordeaux varietals, which were introduced in the late 1800s before phylloxera devastated European vineyards. The region is home to wineries that produce the best of Chilean red wines, including high-quality Bordeaux blends.

The Apalta Valley is a sub-region within the Colchagua Valley with a particularly favorable location and soils.  It is located between the Tinguiririca River and the Cordillera de la Costa Mountain range forming a narrow valley surrounded by rolling hills, creating a microclimate that is conducive to grape cultivation.  The Apalta Valley has a Mediterranean-like climate (warm, dry summers and moderate winters), with ocean breezes helping to smooth out temperature variations, which favors slow and even grape ripening.  It is in a North to South position (which is not common in the wine producing regions of Chile), meaning that at sunrise and sunset the cordilleras block the sun’s rays, limiting the exposure of the vine to intense sunshine and heat.

The soil composition consists of alluvial deposits, clay, and sand, providing excellent drainage for the vines and contributing to the wines’ complexity and structure.

All the wines in today’s tasting are from the Apalta Valley area.

Vineyards in Apalta, Colchagua Valle Denomination Region

 

 The Winery: Casa Lapostolle

Casa Lapostolle is a renowned Chilean winery located in the Colchagua Valley, with special high-end facilities in the Apalta Valley. The winery was founded in 1994 by Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle and her husband Cyril de Bournet, members of the French Marnier Lapostolle family, known for producing Grand Marnier liqueur.

Presently the winery owns 300 hectares of prime vineyards in the Rappel and Colchagua Valleys and uses exclusively Carménère, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.   Experience shows that other grape varieties grow less successfully on Chilean terroir.

Casa Lapostolle’s three main vineyards are located in the Apalta Valley and are planted with Carménère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah. In 1997 they released the first vintage of the now highly praised Clos Apalta wine.

Here are some additional facts about Casa Lapostolle winery:

  • The Marnier family’s objective in Chile was to use its French expertise applied to grapes that incorporate the Chilean terroir. Therefore, Casa Lapostolle became known for its high-quality wines which also focus on sustainable and environmentally friendly winemaking practices, which have helped them gain recognition and respect in the wine industry.
  • Organic and biodynamic practices have been implemented in the Apalta Vineyards, which means that no pesticides are used to fertilize and cultivate crops that are 100% certified organic.
  • Casa Lapostolle has won numerous awards for its wines, including the Wine Spectator’s “Top 100 Wines of the Year” award, for its “Clos Apalta,” a premium red wine (see specific description ahead)
  • In addition to Clos Apalta, Casa Lapostolle produces a wide range of other wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Syrah, among others, each expressing the distinct characteristics of the Colchagua Valley and surrounding regions.
  • Lapostolle Apalta winery’s architecture is also noteworthy, featuring a beautiful and modern design that harmonizes with the stunning natural surroundings of the Colchagua Valley. The winery offers a variety of tours and tastings, and it is a very popular destination for wine tours visiting Chile.

One of the winery buildings at Apalta Valley, with surrounding beams that suggest a barrel shape. There are 24 beams, representing the number of months it takes to produce the Clos Apalta vine.

 

 The Carménère grape variety:

Three of the wines in this tasting are predominantly composed of Carménère grapes.  Therefore, some information about this variety is warranted. The name comes from the French word carmín which is the color that the vine leaves get in autumn.  Carménère originated from the Bordeaux region of France. Before the 1870s, Carménère was a prevalent blending grape in Bordeaux, found mostly in Graves and the Pessac-Léognan appellations. However, due to the phylloxera infestation, nearly all the Carménère vines – along with most of the vineyards in Bordeaux – were wiped out. When vignerons in Bordeaux replanted however, they opted to plant the easier-to-grow Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot instead, and Carménère was essentially abandoned.

Around 1850 Carménère plants were transplanted from Bordeaux into Chile, still confused and often planted alongside Merlot vines and blended with other varietals. Then, in 1994, the French ampelographer (grape botany expert), Jean-Michel Boursiquot, noticed how some of the “Merlot” vines took a much longer time to ripen. Boursiquot carried out research to determine that somewhere close to 50% of the Merlot planted in Chile was actually the long lost Carménère variety of Bordeaux. Finally in 1998, Chile officially recognized Carménère as a specific variety.

The grape is a late-ripening variety that requires ample warmth and sunshine to reach its optimal ripeness. The overall production of a Carménère vine is quite low (compared to other easier varieties), which can be considered a positive for highly concentrated, high quality grapes. Overall, the grape is noted to perform promisingly in sandy soils, where it produces more aromatic wines, and clay-based soils, where it makes richer, more structured wines.

Carménère takes up slightly more than 10% of all vineyard plantings in Chile today, with close to 10,000 hectares of vines planted. However, those 10,000 hectares represent 80% of the world’s plantings devoted to Carménère.

Carménère wines often exhibit a deep red color, medium to full body, and flavors of dark fruits (such as blackberry and plum), spice, green pepper, and subtle herbal notes.

 

 The Wines

1. Lapostolle Couveé Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

D.O.:  Apalta   Blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot

Alcohol Content: 14.5% vol.       Fermentation Type: 100% stainless steel tanks

Ageing:  The blend was aged in 225L French oak for 13 months

Tasting Notes: Intense, deep red color with purple edges. Expressive and intense nose with cassis and black currant aromas. Elegant palate with round and persistent tannins, with fresh cherry along with a light toast flavor.

2..Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Carménère 2021

D.O. Apalta  Blend: 97% Carménère, 3% Sirah     Alcohol Content: 14.5% vol.

Fermentation Type: 100% stainless steel tanks

Ageing:  The blend was aged 225L French oak for 13 months

Tasting Notes: Deep purple red. The nose is black fruit such as maqui berry and spices such as red pepper and vanilla. On the palate it is of medium acidity and round tannins with ripe red fruit.  Medium to long finish.

Lush and fruit-forward, with hibiscus accents to the raspberry and plum core, adding mineral and spice details around fine tannins. (Wine Spectator)

Pairing: Ideal for dishes such as rabbit roulade with mint and apricot or four-cheese pasta with truffles with truffles. (Wine.Com)

3.  Clos Apalta Le Petit Clos 2019

D.O.:  Apalta  Blend: 49% Carménère , 30% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvugnon, 3% Petit Verdot      Alcohol Content: 14.5% vol.

Fermentation Type: 100% in 75hL French oak vats

Ageing:  8 Months in French oak barrels. Then another 14 months in 50% new French oak barrels, 50% in second use.

Color: Intense dark green red garnet with purple violet edges.

Nose: Notes of well ripe fruit opening towards well integrated oak.

Palate: The palate opens toward a concentrated structure, with well-defined tannins and good density. Long in the finish.

 

4.  Clos Apalta 2018

D.O.:  Apalta       Type of Wine: Bordeaux Blend         Blend: 64% Carménère, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot.     Alcohol Content: 15% vol.

Fermentation Type: 75% in 75hL French oak vats, 25% in new French oak barrels

Ageing:  25 Months in French oak barrels. 87% new French oak barrels, 13% in second use.

Color: Deep and inky purple red robe with dark blue edges.

Nose: Intense, spicy with layers of red and black fruit, with cedar notes.

Palate: Elegant tannins open towards a mid-palate that combines finesse and concentration, round and fresh. Exceptionally long finish. (Wine.Com)

This is Casa Lapostolle’s most famous wine.  According to the winery’s web page, Clos Apalta is considered an “exceptional wine by world standards”, having won numerous awards, including Wine Spectator’s “wine of the year”, for its 2005 vintage, among other awards.

Ratings for 2019:     98 pts.  James Suckling,          96 pts.  Wine Advocate

Club del Vino Members Rating after the Tasting:

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 15 participants rated them from Good to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting, as follows:

1st – Clos Apalta, 2018

2nd– Clos Apalta, Le Petit Clos, 2019

3rd – Lapostolle Couvée Alexandre Carménère, 2021

4th – Lapostolle Couvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021

Clos Apalta, 2018 was rated as Best Wine and Lapostolle Couvée Alexandre Carménère, 2021 the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

 

References:

https://www.wine.com

https://www.closapalta.com

WCI Home

Chile’s Colchagua Valley Combines Deep-Rooted History With Viticultural Variety

Apalta Valley: Valley of the Kings

https://winefolly.com/tips/10-cool-things-to-know-about-carmenere-wine/

Carmenere – The Lost Grape, Recently Rediscovered

https://Winespectator.com

https://www.foodreference.com/html/artcasalapostolle.html

https://www.winetourism.com/carmenere/

https://chat.openai.com/

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Laughing time:

.o0o.

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Tasting No 255 – July 25, 2023 – White Wines from Uruguay and Argentina

Posted on July 19, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 255 – July 25, 2023, 12:30 PM

White Wines from Uruguay and Argentina 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to compare and contrast white wine varietals from 

Argentina and Uruguay. We endeavored to choose white wines that we believe are distinctive and represent well the regions and varietals. Hence we selected an Albarino from Uruguay and three wines from Mendoza, Argentina, a Semillon, a Chardonnay and a Chardonnay blend.

Type of tasting: Hybrid tasting.  All wines presented together but with the identity of the selections unknown until after the tasting and lunch.

Presenters: Nick Marzella and Erico Silva

Participants:         M. Averbug; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella, C and Perazza; L. and J. Redwood; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; and G. Vega.

 

Wines:

  1. Bodega Garzon – Albariño Reserva – Albariño – Garzon, Uruguay – 2022
  2. Michelini i Mufatto – Certezas – Semillon – Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina – 2020
  3. Michellini i Mufatto – Convicciones – Chardonnay – Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina – 2019
  4. Altar Uco – Edad Media – White blend, Chardonnay (90%) and Chenin (10%), Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina – 2020

2. Menu:

  • TEGAMINO E VONGOLE . Clams sautéed in a red or white sauce, served with toasted bread
  • SPAGHETTI CARBONARA. Prepared with a sauce of egg yolk, parmesan cheese, Italian bacon and a touch of cream sauce
  • SALMONE ALLA GRIGLIA
  • Grilled Atlantic salmon with olive oil and lemon sauce

3. Information about the regions of production:

3.a Maldonado Region, Uruguay

The main wine region in Uruguay is in Canelones, the large province that includes the capital Montevideo, with more than two thirds of the country’s wine production.

The Maldonado wine region is located along the Atlantic Ocean in the southeast of Uruguay, the province includes the famous city of Punta del Este. The Maldonado wine region has a maritime climate with mild temperatures and cool breezes that moderate the heat in the summer months. Compared to other wine regions in Uruguay, the Maldonado wine region has a high altitude and great geological diversity. There is a range of interesting soils including crystalline rocks, quarts, alluvial, and gravel soils. The soils are quite soft and have excellent drainage and permeability, making them perfect for viticulture.

Varieties cultivated in the region are red: Tannat, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. White: Albariño, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.

3.b Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina.

This region has already been extensively described in previous tastings conducted this year and before. See for example, Tasting note 254, June 17, 2023 and Tasting note 154, April 28, 2014. 

4. Information about the grape varietals

The grape varieties chosen are well known, nothing more to add.

5. Information on the Wines

Wine 1: Bodega Garzon – Albariño Reserva – Albariño – Garzon, Uruguay – 2022

Producer Bodega Garzón is close to Punta del Este, La Barra and José Ignacio, the Uruguayan paradise with mesmerizing landscapes and the perfect combination of past, present and future. The charm of this sophisticated region, located among sloping hills that meet the sea, is portrayed in the postcards of Garzón, a small town with 600 inhabitants which is home to tourists, farmers and local artists.

This picturesque landscape offers the best environment for their vineyards, orchards and groves. The wines love the terroir of Garzón with its ballast hills, a soft, stony soil and Atlantic breezes flowing over the vines that result in perfect conditions for creating elegant and complex wines. Therefore, Garzon products are the result of a careful selection of terroir which is appropriate for the development of premium wines and a wide range of grape varieties. This allows the best winemakers to experiment with a new environment and create optimal blends for a market increasingly eager for new wines. The resultant winemaking is focused on producing wines of the highest quality with a distinctive identity, strong personality and sense of place. Bodega Garzon is one of the leading producers of Albariño in Uruguay.

Characteristics:

  • 100 % Albarino
  • Alcohol: 12.5 %
  • Fermentation: Stainless steel and cement tanks
  • Aging: 3 to 6 months on the lees

Winemaker Notes:

Of a very elegant pale yellow this Albariño has a fresh and vibrant nose that reminds us of tropical fruit with subtle citrus and floral notes. In the mouth, we find a round and fresh body with a saline and mineral combination that provides a marked notion of terroir.

Wine 2: Michelini i Mufatto – Certezas – Semillon – Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina – 2020

Producer Micheliny y Mufatto: Andrea Mufatto and Gerardo Michelini started their winery in 2019 alongside their son Manuel Michelini. They are situated at the foot of the Andes in one of the highest elevations of the Uco Valley where the soil contains some of the richest components of calcium carbonate and granite in all of South America. This particular sub region is at the highest, most western portion of Gualtallary and goes by the name La Cautiva. At Michelini i Mufatto they strive to make some of the most unique wines of Argentina and the wines show tension, elegance and balance. They are currently working with Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The trio also makes wine in Uruguay and Spain.

The wine:

  • 100 % Semillon from single plot in the Uco Valley
  • Alcohol: 12.8 %
  • Fermentation: in their skin 1,000-litter oak founders
  • Aging: 2 winters

Winemaker Notes:

 A wine made from select plots from a 120-year-old estate, one of the few which was founded by then and is still operating in Mendoza. Once harvested, grapes are fermented with their peel (50%) in 1000-liter oak foudres, where wine is aged for two winters. The winemaking process concludes with its gentle filtering and bottling.

The nose of ripe apricot, pineapple, orange sherbert, yellow wax beans and candied ginger.  The palate shows lemon balm, pineapple, caramel rice candy, sage and wet clay.  The wine has beautifully integrated acidity and great texture of fine grape skins.

 Reviews:

 Robert Parker – 94 rating.  The 2020 Certezas is a lot more exotic than the 2019 I tasted next to it, with some tropical notes despite a lot less alcohol (12.8 % vs 13.7 %), but the palate keeps the backbone of freshness and acidity.  The Semillon was ready before the Chenin this year, when they harvested early.  This is richer, has a more tender mouthfeel and a long finish.

Wine 3: Michelini i Mufatto – Convicciones – Chardonnay – Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina – 2019

Producer Micheliny y Mufatto: See above.

Characteristics:

  • Chardonnay
  • Alcohol: 13 %
  • Fermentation: 1000-litter oak founders.
  • Aging: Aged for two winters

Winemakers notes: A wine born from select plots from Finca La Cautiva, whose vineyards are 15 years old. Grapes are harvested and subsequently macerated with their peel for five days. They are subsequently pressed and sent to 1000-liter oak foudres where fermentation takes place. After that, wine is aged for two winters, to be later filtered and bottled.

Reviews:

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 95 points. The 2019 Convicciones is a pure Chardonnay from the zone known as La Cautiva in Gualtallary at 1,500 meters in altitude in the part that is still informally called Las Tunas of the district (once the IG is approved, the limits should be set formally). It has 13.5% alcohol, very good parameters of acidity and freshness and a medium-bodied palate with a strong chalky sensation. It’s pure, clean, precise, symmetric and austere. This has to be the finest vintage for this bottling. They produced 1,500 bottles of this. It was bottled in June 2021. Best After 2022.

Wine 4: Altar Uco – Edad Media – White blend, Chardonnay (90%) and Chenin (10%), Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina – 2020

 Producer – Altar Uco is a boutique winery and production founded by winemaker Juan Pablo Michelini, who also serves as the head of his family winery. Focused on making premium wines from the Uco Valley, including white wines aged under flor (one of the few producers of biologically aged wines in South America!) Altar Uno’s wines are made from grapes grown in Gualtallary, a high altitude region known for its limestone soils and cool climate. 

Characteristics:

  • Blend: 90% Chardonnay, 10% Chenin Blanc
  • Alcohol: 11 %
  • Fermentation: Co-fermented with native yeasts in concrete tanks.
  • Aging: biologically aged in 500-liter French oak barrels (50% first-usage and 50% second-use barrels) for a year.

Winemakers notes: This is an elegant, inspiring and intellectual white wine. Even though today it is young, as time goes by, it will become more subtle and complex.

Reviews:

James Suckling: 94 rating.  Green apple, pineapple, lime curd, chamomile and smoked almond on the nose. Some clove and white pepper, too. It’s medium-bodied with sharp acidity and a vibrant, fragrant, floral and fresh-fruited palate. Tangy but creamy and lengthy finish.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 94 rating. The 2020 Edad Media Blanco is serious and nuanced, with moderate ripeness and only 11.2% alcohol, notable for the warmer year. The blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc fermented together with indigenous yeasts and matured in 500-liter French oak barrels for 12 months; but the barrels were never topped up, and some developed a thin layer of flor yeasts, which gives it a special spiciness and tastiness. After the élevage, the wine spent five months in stainless steel to let it settle. The nose is complex, subtle and elegant, combining notes of citrus with herbs, spices and a smoky touch. The palate is sharp and very tasty, clean, precise and long. I tasted the 2018 and 2019 next to this 2020 to check the evolution, and despite the warmer year, this keeps the poise and freshness and comes through as a noteworthy followup to the 2019, even a step above. It finishes dry and tasty, with a chalky sensation. It shows very good integration of the oak (better than any previous vintage) and some nuances that appear with time in the glass, like tangerine peel and flowers. It’s a beauty.

6.    Participants evaluation of the tasted wines:

The tasting took place before knowing the wines and their prices. Twelve participants rated them from acceptable to excellent. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting, as follows:

1st – Bodega Garzón, Albariño Reserva, UR, 2022

2nd– Michelini i Muffatto, Convicciones Chardonnay, 2019

3rd – Michelini i Muffatto, Certezas Semillon, 2020

4th – Altar Uco Edad Media, White Blend, Mendoza AR, 2020

 

Bodega Garzón, Albariño Reserva, Uruguay, 2022 was rated as Best Wine and the Best Buy. The following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

 

References:

https://www.michelinimufatto.com/argentina/?lang=en

https://bodegagarzon.com/en/

https://bodegagarzon.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Technical-Sheet-Albarino-Reserva-2022-ENG.pdf

https://www.wine.com/product/michelini-i-mufatto-convicciones-chardonnay-2019/1124260

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Roman emperors and winemaking

Posted on July 17, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Roman ruins reveal how emperors used winemaking in a lavish power play

The Villa of the Quintilii is only the second site in the world known to use wine in this way

By Charlotte Lytton, Washington Post,   July 23, 2023 at 6:00 a.m. EDT

ROME — Fights involving exotic cats, chariot races, gladiatorial battles: At the banquets of ancient Rome, there was no skimping on dinnertime entertainment. And, according to a recent study, sport for elite guests included something rarer, too: winemaking as a form of theater.

The findings, published in the journal Antiquity, describe how the Villa of the Quintilii used alcohol production for show in what is now believed to be the among the most lavish wineries in the ancient world. This makes the 2nd-century villa only the second known to have used wine in this way, said lead study author Emlyn Dodd, a lecturer in classical studies at the University of London.

The villa has “this amazing level of decoration and luxurious appointments in it that we never see in ancient wineries,” Dodd said.

The discovery highlights the use of wine as a form of power for the privileged in one of the ancient world’s bloodiest empires.

“The lives of the bad emperors are full of what had always seemed completely unrealistic” behaviors, said Nicholas Purcell, Camden Professor of Ancient History at the University of Oxford, who was not involved in the study. “And then something like [the winery at the Quintilii] turns up, and it actually turns out that it’s all true; that they really were doing this kind of thing, and building special places in order to do it.”

Winemaking as theater

This decorative inlaid marble pavement is in one of the dining rooms overlooking the winery. (S. Castellani, after Dodd et al. 2023)

A pair of wealthy brothers built the Villa of the Quintilii in the 2nd century A.D. on land that sits about eight miles from Rome’s modern-day city center.

The site was so desirable that around 182 A.D., then-Emperor Commodus killed its owners to claim it for himself, kicking off a long period of imperial ownership. Many emperors used the villa over the years, with some making renovations and adding to its opulence. The name Gordianus is stamped into the lead pipes at the facility, which suggests that Emperor Gordian III, who ruled from 238 to 244 A.D., built the winery or at least renovated it.

Formal excavations of the villa ruins have been going on since the late 18th century, but the first evidence of the winery did not emerge until 2017. Archaeologists were originally looking for the entrance to the roughly 60-acre site when they found an “unexpected surprise,” said Dodd, who wrote the paper while working at the British School at Rome.

A bronze bust of Roman Emperor Gordian III. (Universal History Archive/ Universal Images Group/Getty Images)

Unlike the other winemaking facilities that would have been common in the empire, the Quintilii winery was extravagantly decorated with some of the finest materials. The floors were not waterproof concrete but were made of imported red marble. Juice from pressed grapes would have spurted from channels in a marble-lined façade, creating a purely entertaining fountain effect. And the winery is surrounded by dining rooms, once richly appointed, that seem to have nothing to do with the production process.

On the basis of these clues, archaeologists think the Quintilii served as a kind of “imperial toy,” said Alice Poletto, a Rome fellow at the British School at Rome who was not involved in the research.

The experts think enslaved people would have pounded grapes in the winery’s treading area, most likely slipping about on the luxurious red marble while doing so, to the gruesome delight of sloshed guests. Attendees from the era’s highest social circles would look on as the roughage of crushed grapes, or must, made its way down to mechanical presses, which would send juice gushing through fountains set in the courtyard wall and pouring from open channels into dolia, or ceramic storage jars, in the ground to collect the spoils.

By Poletto’s estimations, the dining complex could seat 25 to 27 guests, with the winemaking spectacle taking place perhaps twice a year as “a unique opportunity and an absolutely high honor that served not only as a reward to the invitees, but also, in my opinion, a way for the emperor to highlight [and] reinforce his power.”

Playing at agriculture

The lavish Villa of the Quintilii sprawled across almost 60 acres of land. (AP)

Banquets at the Quintilii might have been organized ahead of political elections, Poletto thinks; a way to manipulate results behind the most regal of doors. For many emperors, extending invitations to such events was “a privilege and a warning,” she said, a way for them to communicate that “your life is in my own hands … be aware that if I decided that you’re going to die tomorrow, you are going to die tomorrow.”

Such was the state of play in ancient Rome, where death could be employed to expand the empire and for post-feast japes alike. Poletto says that Rome’s latter Imperial period included “banquets of the dead,” where actors would dress as demons or afterworld deities and pretend to murder guests for the grim entertainment of others.

In addition, “drinking wine was a very important symbol of status and prestige” for the ancient Romans, said Paulina Komar, an assistant professor at the Institute of Archaeology at the University of Warsaw who has written extensively on wine’s role in ancient empires.

Oxford University’s Purcell said that “the gathering of grapes and the making of wine [was] of course the centerpiece of Greek and Roman upper class,” and that he would be “quite surprised” if the more humdrum olive or grain harvests attracted similar attention.

Still, history is replete with examples of the wealthy toying with the idea of a bucolic lifestyle for sport, Purcell added. In the late 18th century, Marie Antoinette installed a dairy at her castle in Rambouillet that has stunningly ornate décor, designed for its form rather than function. The winery at the Quintilii is a similar example of “the super-rich play[ing] with the fantasy that they might be participating in the romantic life of agricultural production,” he said.

A view from what once was the west dining room shows the winery’s cellar area leading up to the production levels. (Emlyn Dodd)

It is possible that more examples of winemaking as sport will emerge from Roman ruins. The discovery at the Quintilii follows that in 2016 of a similar facility at Villa Magna, a site in central Italy dated to about 100 years earlier. These “thick and fast” findings, as Purcell describes them, offer hope about what might be unearthed next.

“It does make you wonder about other periods of the Roman Empire, perhaps even earlier in the republic,” Dodd said. “Was it a common phenomenon, or are we just seeing a handful of incredibly rare examples that particular emperors or super-elite people built?”

Purcell’s money is on Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli, 20 miles from Rome, as the spot next likely to reveal such riches. “It wouldn’t astonish me at all,” he said, to find “sumptuous public rooms … [at] the biggest and best Roman Imperial villa that was ever built.”

And back at the Quintilii, there are more discoveries to be made. One dining area has been excavated, but two spots around the wine cellar have yet to be unearthed, as well as a number of spaces attached to the presses and production areas. Finding what lies beneath these is the next step, Dodd said, “to tease apart chronologies and purposes and see where it takes us.”

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Tasting No 254 – June 27, 2023 – Valle de Uco, Argentina

Posted on June 21, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Club del Vino

Tasting No 254 – June 27, 2023 – Valle de Uco, Argentina

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

 Valle de Uco is a viticultural region southwest of Mendoza, in Argentina. Situated along the Tunuyán River, the Uco Valley is widely considered one of the top wine regions in Mendoza, and all of Argentina. The main objective of the tasting is to present four of the most significant types of wine produced in Valle de Uco.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Jairo Sanchez and Jorge Requena

Participants: To be announced

These are the wines: 

  1. Catena Zapata, Catena Alta, Chardonnay, 2018
  2. Domaine Nico, La Savante, Pinot Noir, 2020
  3. Salentein Numina Gran Corte, Bordeaux Red Blend, 2019
  4. Zuccardi, Jose Zuccardi, Malbec, 2018     

The Valle de Uco Region

Argentina is one of the most important wine-producing countries in the New World, and vies with Chile for the position of largest producer of wine in South America. The high altitude deserts of the eastern Andes mountains have given rise to a high quality wine industry.

Mendoza is Argentina’s largest and best-known wine regions, often producing great wines to critical acclaim. Here, desert landscapes and high altitudes combine to make a very stable climate and a terroir that gives rise to aromatic, intensely flavored reds. Three-quarters of Argentinian wine production takes place in Mendoza. Furthermore, Mendoza Malbec accounts for 85 percent of the Malbec made in the country. There is more Malbec planted in Mendoza than anywhere in the world.

Valle de Uco is located 88 km to the south of the City of Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes, the Uco Valley spans the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The wines from there are often labelled with one of these three place names.

Whereas in 2005 the valley had 16,800ha under vine, today it contains 28,600ha, representing 19% of all the vineyards in Mendoza. Almost one in five bottles produced in Mendoza, comes from the valley.

Because the region is so large, in recent years producers have been carrying out detailed analysis to identify smaller Geographic Indications (GIs). Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes and San Pablo are some of the most famous, together with Gualtallary, and all contain vineyards set at altitudes of between 900m and 1,500m. Irrigation water comes from the glaciers above, mainly channelled by the Tunuyán and Las Tunas rivers.

The climate is continental: dry with plenty of sun, low rainfall, cold winters and warm summers with a large thermal range. The point of difference is the altitude, which defines the temperature (on average, it drops 1༠C every 150m higher up you go) and the cool climate has lured many producers away from warmer areas further down. All these different factors result in expressive, tense reds and vibrant whites.

The proximity and exposure to the Andes make for alluvial, rocky soils with widely varying mixtures of sand, limestone and clay in unique combinations that produce memorable wines.

Within the 50km (30 miles) Valle de Uco region there are smaller wine regions with slightly different wine styles:

Tupungato is well-known among collectors because of an unofficial growing area called Gualtallary with calcareous soils. You’ll find fresher styles of Malbec, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc because vineyards are as high as 5,250 feet (1600 meters).

Tunuyán contains the Vista Flores appellation. The area has sandy soils which produce elegant and aromatic styles of Malbec with minty notes. You’ll also find some Cabernet Franc and even Pinot Noir here.

San Carlos has alluvial soils with more loamy-clay which creates a lush, chocolately palate. The region also sits a bit lower at around 3770 feet (1150 m) which softens the acidity. Expect to find lush, rich styles of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. 

Wine selection. The selected wines – Malbec, Red Blend, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – are representative (about 75%) of the wines produced in the Uco Valley.

  1. Information about the wines

Wine #1. Catena Zapata ‘Catena Alta’ 2018, Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina

Producer: Catena Zapata is one of the foremost wine estates in Mendoza, Argentina. Founded in 1902 and still in family hands, it is particularly known for its rich, full-bodied red wines produced from Malbec. The estate is made up of six vineyards in the Luján de Cuyo, Tupungato and San Carlos sub-regions of Mendoza, at altitudes ranging from 3000 to 4750 feet (920 to 1450 meters) above sea level.

The Wine:     Vintage: 2018              Varietal: 100% Chardonnay

Regions: Gualtallary District, Tupungato Region, Uco Valley, 1,450m average elevation

Vinification: Hand-harvested. Whole clusters are pressed, and then 100% fermented in 500 L French oak barrels with natural yeasts at low temperatures. Wild yeasts. Aged for 14 months in French oak. 30% does not undergo malolactic fermentation. First, second and third use barrels used.

Alcohol: 13.8%       Total Acidity: 7.05 grams/liter       pH: 3.25

Tasting notes: This chardonnay’s clonal material often gives way to rot from botrytis (the fungus that produces sweet wines), which is here manifested in that sweetness, although without compromising the wine’s tension and freshness. It also adds tremendous complexity, candied aromas in the midst of ripe fruits, and all accompanied by a very-Gualtallary acidity. Very much a mountain wine. (Patricio Tapia 94)

Rich but fresh aromas of lemon zest, orange and rose blossom. Also smoke and caramel. Rich, viscous and well structured on the palate. Lots of citrus. Elegant spice and a juicy, supporting acidity (Vinum Wine Magazine 17/20).

Wine # 2. Domaine Nico La Savante Pinot Noir 2020

Producer:   Domaine Nico lleva el nombre de la hija de Laura Catena, Nicola, que a su vez rinde homenaje a su bisabuelo, Nicola Catena, fundador de la bodega Catena Zapata en el año 1902

The wine:      Vintage: 2020     Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Vineyard Location:    Gualtallary, Tupungato Elevation: 1450 m.s.n.m. (4757 feet) Planted: In 1994,  Dijon clones: 115 and 777

Vinification:    The fermentation was in roll-fermentor and small stainless-steel tanks. Clone 115 was fermented with 40% whole cluster and clone 777 with 30% whole cluster. Max. Fermentation temperature: 24° C, 7 days maceration. Aged 15 months 30% new barrels, 30% second-use and 40% third-use. All french oak

Alcohol: 13.5%     pH: 3.46

Tasting Notes:       Red fruit with presence of herbs such as thyme, spices, and clove. Medium-high acidity, low alcohol, slight minerality alongside integrated oak and grainy tannins.

Wild smoky raspberries, brambleberries and oyster shells on the nose. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and taut, mineral character. Tense and elegant with a fine frame of tannins. Tightly wound. Drink after 2024. (James Suckling 95)

2020 was a warmer year, and the wine shows it when you taste it next to the 2021, which is cooler. This is a little rounder, with 13.5% alcohol and mellow acidity, with more cherry than flowers, tasty and juicy. It finishes dry and chalky. Best after 2022. (Robert parker 95).

 

Wine # 3. Salentein Numina Gran Corte 2019

The producer: The Bodega Salentien is located at an elevation of 1.200 meters (4.000 feet), right in the vineyard’s center. More than 49 hectares (121 acres), of native desert habitat were preserved and are a part of the bodega’s everyday landscape. The western horizon is dominated by the close snowy Andes.

The wine:        Vintage: 2019

Varietal Composition: 65% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet franc.

Region: Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza

Vinification: Hand harvested, fermentation in 7,000-liter oak casks. The varieties of this blended were made separately and after 6 months aged in barrels, the barrels were emptied and the blend was made, which came back to the oak barrel to finish the ageing process. The total ageing time was 16 months.

Alcohol: 14.5%         pH: 3.79

Tasting notes: It displays a bright, intense and deep purplish color. Is aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure and a long finish

Salentein Numina Gran Corte displays a bright, intense and deep purplish red color. Its aroma is complex and elegant with notes of tobacco, cassis, blueberries, spices as well as notes of vanilla and caramel. In the mouth, it is a wide and intense wine with full body and tannic structure as well as a long and lingering finish (Winemaker Notes)

Purple in the glass. The complex nose offers clearly defined notes of cigar box, vanilla, fresh plum, blackcurrant and bay leaf with hints of ash. Lean and juicy in the mouth with refined tannins, the flavors are driven by the oak (Vinous 94).

Wine # 4. Zuccardi Jose Zuccardi Malbec 2018

The producer:  Familia Zuccardi is a family-run winery based out of the Bodega Santa Julia in the Mendoza region. The company has numerous brands, each with a wide range of wines, covering classic Argentinian varieties as well as numerous styles including sweet and sparkling wines.

The wine:         Vintage: 2018

Varietal Composition: 95% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Vineyard Location: Malbec from IG Paraje Altamira (San Carlos), Cabernet Sauvignon from IG Gualtallary (Tupungato)

 

Vinification: Cluster selection, fermentation with native yeasts in concrete tanks. Aging for 24 months in large casks (2500 liters) and barrels (500 liters)

Alcohol: 14.5%           pH: 5.69 g/l

Tasting notes:  Blackberries, graphite, bla

ck pepper and crushed berries on the nose. Full-bodied, very tight and focused with bolted-down tannins that give it fantastic potential for aging. A little cabernet sauvignon here, too. Try after 2023 (James Suckling 96).

Balances muscle with grace, showing notes of molasses, ripe black cherry and black plum that offer nice richness, while a thread of plumeria picks up the trail midpalate. Reveals stony tannins, peppery elements and notes of espresso and orange peel on the lengthy finish. Drink now (Wine Spectator 94).

The 2018 José Zuccardi mixes Malbec from different regions in the Valle de Uco (today, Altamira and Gualtallary) all with limestone soils. It always has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon (only 5% to 10%), which is not mentioned on the label, and is now matured in foudre for two years. I tasted this next to the 2019, where there are no differences other than the nuances from the year, with similar alcohol and acidity, but the sensation is of a little wider and powerful in the 2018. The wine feels very stable and harmonious after the long élevage, but there are no traces of oak (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 94).

 

  1. Menu (and wine pairing)

  • Seafood salad (Chardonnay)
  • Chicken grilled meat with vegetables (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir)
  • Grilled sirloin strip steak with cooked potatoes (Malbec, Malbec Blend)
  • Dessert, coffee, tea

 

  1. CV Members Rating : 

References:

https://daily.sevenfifty.com/exploring-argentinas-high-elevation-uco-valley/

https://timatkin.com/cork-talk/uco-valley/

https://www.winemag.com/2018/10/05/uco-valley-wine/

https://aroundtheworldin80harvests.com/2016/11/15/uco-valley-guide-terroir-wines-winemakers-wine-region/

https://www.tangol.com/blog/eng/the-19-most-outstanding-wineries-in-valle-de-uco_post_164

https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews-tastings/uco-valley-wines-12-essential-ones-to-try-446346/

https://catenazapata.com/catena-alta-chardonnay.php

https://domainenico.com/english/la-savante-eng.html

http://www.bodegasalentein.com/en/bodega/lineas.html

https://zuccardiwines.com/en/vinos-de-viticultor/#jose-zuccardi

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Qual a Quantidade Certa de Vinho na Taça?

What is the right amount of wine to pour in the glass?

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Tasting No 253 – May 30, 2023 – Beyond Malbec: other wines with deep-rooted Argentinian identity

Posted on May 16, 2023 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 253 – May 30/2023 – Beyond Malbec: other wines with deep-rooted Argentinian identity

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Torrontes vineyard, Salta

Bonarda vineyard, Mendonza

  1. Tasting Overview

In Argentina, while all the usual suspects are well known (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc etc.), there are a few lesser-known varieties that have taken on a uniquely Argentinian identity. The main objective of this tasting therefore is to explore wines made with these special grapes: the white Torrontés and the red Bonarda.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Claudia and Agilson Perazza

Participants: R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; M. Fryer; J. García; N. Marzella; A. and C. Perazza; L and J. Redwood; J. Requena; J. Sanchez; C. Santelices; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; G. Vega; G. Zincke; and S. Ardila (guest).

These are the wines:

  • Susana Balbo, ‘Torrontés Crios’, Salta, 2019
  • Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia Las Liebres’ Bonarda, Mendoza, 2020
  • Familia Zuccardi ‘Emma Zuccardi Bonarda’, Mendoza, 2019
  • Bodega Aleanna ‘El Enemigo Bonarda’, Mendoza, 2018

The Menu

  • Seafood salad
  • Agnolotti di ricotta with tomato sauce
  • Lamb with rosemary and potatoes
  • Dessert, coffee, tea

 

  1. The grape varietals and the regions that produce them

 TORRONTÉS

“Malbec may be more popular, but Torrontés is Argentina’s special grape” (M. Puckette@Wine Folly)

Torrontés is an aromatic white wine that originated in Argentina. The only native grape variety in South America to really woo its drinkers, Torrontés is the Queen of Argentina.

Torrontés involves a group of three distinct varieties – Torrontés Riojano, Torrontés Sanjuanino and Torrontés Mendocino – all native to South America. They are a natural cross between the mission grape País (a red grape) and the sweet Muscat of Alexandria grape (also known as Zibbibo), and first appeared in the north of Argentina. Of the three varieties, the most popular (and most delicious) is the Torrontés Riojano, which grows dominantly in northern Salta. Other regions such as Mendoza and La Rioja produce a lot of Torrontés wines using the other two varieties of Torrontés, but these tend to be much simpler in aroma and taste and often made in a sweet style. The wine smells sweet but is usually made in a dry style. Albariño and dry styles of Riesling and Muscat Blanc (dry “Moscatel” from Portugal) are similar in aroma and taste to Torrontés.

The Torrontés thrive in Argentina’s high-altitude vineyards, particularly in the Cafayate region of Salta, where T. Riojano is grown. This region, on the edge of the Andes, boasts some of the highest vineyards in the world, reaching up to around 10,000 feet (3,000m) above sea level. Here, dry, desert-like conditions and a significant diurnal temperature shift help bring out the best qualities of Torrontés. The soils in Cafayate consist mostly of free-draining chalky loam and in some areas can be quite rocky. The dry soil causes stress in the vines which causes them to produce less vegetation and not as many grapes. As there are fewer grapes, it means the concentration of flavors within the grapes rises. New plantations in the higher parts of the Uco Valley in Mendoza are promising too.

Tasting notes: Color: pale straw color with silver and green highlights. Primary flavors: Meyer lemon; peach; rose petal; geranium; and citrus zest. “A perfume bomb in the nose, Torrontés is locally known as “the liar”, as its floral, fruity, and tropical notes trick you into thinking you might have a sweet wine, but the mouth is, to the contrary, bone dry and occasionally a little bitter. If you want a sweeter finish, try one of the late harvests (sweet wine) versions. When made well, it’s like the vinous equivalent of a gin and tonic!” (A. Barnes, Wine Folly).

Food pairing notes: Torrontés is an excellent match with fish and shellfish, as well as with the regional cuisine of the northwestern Argentina, especially the empanadas and the typical Locro argentino. Even though Torrontés smells sweet, it’s usually quite dry, making it a great match with savory dishes that feature exotic spices, fruit, and aromatic herbs. With its light aromatic style and cool serving temperature, it is an ideal wine to match with Asian and Indian cuisine due to its sweet floral aromas of rose petals and flavors of white peach and lemon zest.

BONARDA aka Charbono, Corbeau, Douce Noir…

Emblematic variety of Argentina

Bonarda is a stealthy red wine option from Argentina that many experts think is going to make a big splash in the coming years. If País was the most-planted red variety in Chile, Argentina’s equivalent would be Bonarda. Bonarda was the most widely planted red grape before the Malbec boom and suffered a similar historical treatment as País: downgraded to table wine and abandoned as it lost out on the fashion stakes.

About the grape: Bonarda, as it is called in Argentina, is not supposed to be called Bonarda: the actual true Bonarda grapes are a group of at least six distinct Italian grape varieties, the most well-known of them being Bonarda Piemontese.

Instead, the Argentinian grape, when was DNA-profiled, was found to be identical to a rare grape from the alpine vineyards of Savoie in eastern France, known as Douce Noir or Corbeau de Savoie, which is also found in old vineyards in Napa, under the name Charbono.

The Bonarda/Charbono grape is believed to have originated in the Savoie region in the 18th century, when the Savoie was in fact under Italian rule, rather than being part of France as it is today. The grape became a much-maligned variety during the 20th century and almost disappeared in France. In 1958 it was prohibited in France, and all 500 hectares of the Bonarda vines were pulled out, while it was being planted widely in Argentina.

Bonarda is very important viticulturally in Argentina, where it is second only to Malbec in terms of acreage. In all, Bonarda accounts for over 18,000 hectares (45,000 acres) in the country, representing nearly 10 percent of all grapes grown there. Bonarda has been used to make fruity, medium-bodied bulk wines with low tannins. However, more recently some producers began looking more seriously at Bonarda, discovering its great potential as a varietal, especially for its adaptability to warmer areas, and using site selection and winemaking techniques to make more interesting and premium wines. Of the total cultivated in Argentina, 60% is found in Eastern Mendoza, a warm area located at about 700-800 meters above sea level, where it does best, because of its long hang time required to reach phenolic maturation.

How does Bonarda differ from Malbec? Often considered Malbec’s little brother, while Bonarda displays ample color in the glass, just like Malbec, it delivers lower tannins and slightly higher, more juicy-tasting acidity. Most Bonarda wines are made with little to no oak, and rarely carries alcohol above 13.5% ABV.

Tasting notes: Color: deep ruby to deep purple. On the nose: very fruity on the nose at first; notes of black cherry compote, fresh blueberry, and plum. Then, its complexity evolves, giving off nuanced aromas of violets, 5-spice, allspice, and peonies. If the wine was oaked (though most are not), may have slight smoky notes of cigar box, sweet figs, and chocolate. On the palate: initial burst of fruitiness, medium-body, juicy acidity, and smooth, low-tannin finish. The Bonarda wines fall within three styles:

Traditional Bonarda: Historically pipped as Malbec’s little brother, they are vinified in the same way. More traditional Bonarda wines are fruit-forward coming from warmer regions. Key regions are San Juan, La Rioja, and sub-regions San Rafael and Rivadavia in Mendoza.

Fresh, flirty Bonarda: Treated with shorter maceration periods and some whole cluster carbonic maceration, this new clan of Bonarda are lighter, fruitier, and perfect to enjoy chilled over lunch. Key areas are Luján de Cuyo (sub-regions of Vistalba and Ugarteche) and Tupungato, in the Mendoza region.

Serious Bonarda:  In recent years, you will find a few new Bonarda plantations popping up on prime vine-estate in the highlands of the Uco Valley in Argentina, which proves just how seriously winemakers are once again taking the variety. Delving into the potential quality of Bonarda, these wines do not come cheap, but they do not taste cheap either. Most producers skip the oak and age wines in cement eggs, resulting in more linear, dark fruit and floral Bonarda with finesse. Key region is Uco Valley, Mendoza.

Pairing notes: Bonarda is a remarkably diverse food pairing wine because of its lower tannin and higher acidity. It will go well with chicken, beef, pork, and even a more steak-like fish (e.g., grilled salmon steaks with hoisin BBQ). Because of its subtle brown spice flavors, it will also pair well with flavors from the South Pacific (think pineapple, mango, teriyaki etc.). Locally inspired fares include mole sauces, curried potatoes, empanadas, and tacos al pastor.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1 – Susana Balbo, ‘Torrontés Crios’, Salta, 2019

– The Producer: Dominio del Plata is an Argentinian wine company founded and owned by leading winemaker Susana Balbo since 1999. The winery is located in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, with vineyard plots in several subregions of the Uco Valley. The Crios label features a wide range of monovarietal and blended wines for everyday consumption, including a Malbec rosé. The winery mainly ferments the wine in stainless steel tanks, though concrete eggs have been introduced for premium wines. The Torrontés grapes are sourced from Cafayate, Salta, and the highest vineyards in Valle de Uco, Mendoza.

– The wine: this wine is crisp, refreshing and aromatic, with a bouquet of citrus fruits, passion fruit, lychee, and white flowers. Lively acidity, a hint of creaminess and a long mineral finish add depth and balance to the palate.

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Varietal: 100% Torrontés
  • Regions: Cafayate (Salta) and Uco Valley (Mendoza); 1700m average elevation
  • Hand-harvested
  • Vinification: fermentation in stainless steel tanks at 13oC max. with selected yeasts; conservation over lees for 3 months to improve wine structure.
  • Alcohol: 13%
  • Ratings: 90 pts. (Patricio Tapia Descorchados; Tim Atkin); 88 pts. (Cellar Tracker)

Tasting notes: “This wine blends grapes from two origins: Altamira in the Uco Valley (Mendoza), and Cafayate (Salta). According to Susana Balbo, the Altamira vineyard contributes with the herbs and citrusy side, while Cafayate’s adds the ripe white fruit aromas. The result is a tremendously fresh wine (something you often don’t find in this variety) that hasn’t lost its varietal character. The texture is smooth and round. An aperitif wine” (Patricio Tapia @ Descorchados).

Classic Bonarda: Bonarda wine to get to grips with the grape.

Wine #2 – Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia Las Liebres’ Bonarda, 2021

 

– The producer: The sister brand of Altos Las Hormigas winery, Colonia Las Liebres was established in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza to focus solely on the cultivation of Bonarda grapes and was one of the original makers of export-quality single-varietal Bonarda. It makes fresh, juicy and great value Bonarda reds, as well as an excellent traditional method rosé bubbly, and even a sparkling red (named Brusca, in ode to its Italian inspiration).

– The Wine. The winery defines their approachable and very affordable red Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Clásica as a bistro or trattoria wine. The ‘house style’ is to keep moderate alcohol and good freshness. It is a good example of the fresher, fruitier Bonarda produced in the region.  Ideal to pair with pasta Pomodoro dishes, pizza and light meats.

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Varietal: 100% Bonarda
  • Region: Mendoza; 90% organic grapes from Luján de Cuyo and 10% grapes from their new property Jardín de Altamira in the Uco Valley, where the limestone soils and higher altitude add tension to the wine even in a warmer year.
  • Fermented for 10 days in 3,000-liter stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts, with daily rack-and-return for gentle extraction.
  • Matured in concrete tanks with no oak treatment.
  • Alcohol: 13.1%.
  • Ratings: 90 pts (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate); 91 pts (Patricio Tapia – Descorchados); 90 pts. (Tim Atkin).

Tasting notes: “This is a classic in the Altos Las Hormigas catalog and has been made since the early 2000s. The grapes come from old vines in Luján de Cuyo and some grapes from estate-owned vineyards in Paraje Altamira in southern Uco Valley. It’s a juicy Bonarda with firm and friendly tannins and tones of black fruit in jam (as is usual in the variety) but accompanied by refreshing acidity that invites you to keep on drinking.” (Patricio Tapia).

  

Bonarda with Bite: Serious Bonarda wines for a different expression

Wine #3. Bodega Aleanna ‘El Enemigo Bonarda’, 2018

– The Producer. El Enemigo is a cult wine producer based in Mendoza. The estate is a joint venture by Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil, the chief winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2002. The pair created El Enemigo and the “Bodega Aleanna” in 2007. The estate focuses on traditional winemaking techniques and produces two wine ranges: Gran Enemigo and El Enemigo. The El Enemigo range is devoted to varietal wines made from Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Bonarda and Chardonnay, while the Gran Enemigo range includes Bordeaux blends, and a number of single vineyard Cabernet Franc wines.

– The Wine: This Bonarda is a tribute to old Bonarda wines of the Eastern Mendoza, a wine made in a traditional Mendoza style. This wine shows a deep violet color with bluish reflections. The nose is intense and complex. Intense aromas of ripe black fruit, blackberries, raspberries, black cherries, chocolate and liquor, with some spicy notes of fresh herbs provided by the Cabernet Franc. The taste has a sweet impact with silky tannins and aromas of ripe black and red fruits with notes of licorice and vanilla. Its natural acidity is refreshing. Because of its concentration and complexity, the finish is long and persistent.

  • Vintage: 2018
  • Composition: 85% Charbono (Bonarda; 15% Cabernet Franc.
  • Region/vineyards: El Mirador, Rivadavia (Bonarda); Gualtallary, Tupungato (C. Franc).
  • Vinification: 15 days-fermentation with wild yeast, max. temp. 28oC for 15 days, with 25 days maceration in French oak barrels 2nd and 3rd
  • Aged 15 months in 100-year-old foudres.
  • Alcohol: 13.5%
  • Ratings: 92 pts. (Wine Spectator); 91 pts. (Tim Atkin); 92 pts. (Jésica Vargas @Wine Enthusiast); 88 pts. (Decanter World Wine Awards).

Tasting notes: An intense and spiky Bonarda. Super aromatic and a more challenging, but fun, mouth feel that is blended with a dash of Cabernet Franc. “The bouquet of this well-crafted wine is loaded with flowers, rosemary, strawberry and cherry aromas. Medium in weight, it delivers plenty of red fruit flavors with a touch of spice and toasted oak. Silky tannins and nice acidity make the wine very enjoyable. It’s a good and delicious example of what Bonarda wines can offer”. (Jésica Vargas @ Wine Enthusiast).

 

Wine #4 – Familia Zuccardi, ‘Emma Zuccardi Bonarda’, Mendoza, 2019

– The Producer: Familia Zuccardi is a family-run winery based out of the Bodega Santa Julia, built in 1968, in Mendoza by Alberto Zuccardi. The Familia Zuccardi bodega was established in 2013 in the Valle de Uco, by Alberto’s grandson, Sebastián. Today he leads a young team of agricultural engineers and enologists charged with producing the highest quality wines in the Uco Valley.

The wine: Emma Zuccardi is part of the bodega’s ‘winegrowers’ line of wines. Emma Zuccardi, Sebastián’s grandmother, is a charming and sophisticated woman. She is creative and has her own style. This wine is a tribute to her personality. “The 2019 Emma Zuccardi Bonarda was produced with grapes from the zones where they believe the variety behaves better, in this case in the Valle de Uco, more specifically San Pablo and Altamira, in approximately the same proportion. Fermented and matured in concrete and bottled unoaked, like many wines at Zuccardi, to preserve the varietal purity. It’s juicy and has citrus freshness, something 2019 might have in common with 2018, with very good finesse” (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Variety: 100% Bonarda
  • Region: IG Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley; 1100 m ASL and IG San Pablo, Uco Valley, 1400 m ASL
  • Manual harvest
  • Vinification: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, maceration for 20-25 days followed by Malolactic fermentation.
  • Fermentation and aging in concrete vats.
  • Alcohol: 12.9 %
  • Ratings: 93 pts. (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate); 95 pts. (Patricio Tapia, Descorchados); 94 pts. (Tim Atkin).

Winemaker notes: Red with black intense purplish tints. Very fresh, red and black fruit aromas reminiscent of strawberries, cherries, blueberries and raspberries. Silky, smooth and juicy entrance, with a lively acidity and elegant tannins that give a great structure.

Club del Vino  Members Rating 

The tasting took place before the wines’ prices were revealed. The participants rated them according to relative preference, and the Familia Zuccardi ‘Emma Zuccardi Bonarda’, 2019 was rated the as the Best Wine and the Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia las Liebres Bonarda’ 2019 as the Best Buy.

 

References

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

https://winefolly.com/; https://www.winesofargentina.org/en/provinces/salta;

https://winefolly.com/tips/5-south-american-wine-varieties-you-need-to-know/

https://winefolly.com/grapes/bonarda/

https://southamericawineguide.com/a-guide-to-bonarda-wine-grape-variety-argentina/.

https://www.decanter.com/argentina-2014-coverage/bonarda-a-unique-varietal-of-argentina-with-great-potential-30561/

https://www.susanabalbowines.com.ar/

https://zuccardiwines.com/vinos-de-viticultor/#emma-zuccardi

https://www.susanabalbowines.com.ar/vino/crios-torrontes.

https://www.enemigowines.com/about-us

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