Tasting #258 – October 31, 2023 – Wines from PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Testing overview

The wine production of PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Patagonia is South America’s southernmost wine-producing region. Despite being one of the world’s least-obvious places for quality viticulture, this desert region – with its cool, dry climate – has proved itself well suited to producing elegant red wines from Pinot Noir and Malbec.

The cooler climate in Patagonia is ideal for wines like Pinot Noir and Merlot.

The geographical region covers a vast area – around twice the size of California – across southern Argentina and Chile. Patagonia is more closely associated with dinosaurs and desert than with fine wine production.

The total land under vine in Patagonia is less than 10,000 acres or about 4,000 hectares, which represents about 2% of the total planted in Argentina.

However, the viticultural zone stretches 300 kilometers (200 miles) along the Neuquen and Rio Negro rivers, from Anelo in the west to Choele Choel in the east. The zone is closer to the Andes Mountains than to the Atlantic Ocean, but is at a much lower altitude than its northern cousin of Mendoza, averaging about 300 metres (1000 feet) above sea level.

Patagonia is a desert, and viticulture is possible only near the rivers, where meltwater from the Andes is abundant for irrigation. The classic desert climate of warm days and cold nights extends the growing season in the region, slowing ripening in the grapes and letting them develop rich varietal character while retaining acidity.

Patagonia has gained recognition within the wine world due to the two viticultural regions located in its northern section: the more-established Rio Negro and the newer, still developing Neuquen. Wines from these two zones are traditionally more European in style than those from the central and northern regions of Argentina, as a result of the areas’ cooler climate and higher latitude.

There are a number of factors which mean that the wines produced in Patagonia wine region are some of the most complex, characterful and excellent Argentinian wines. These factors include the climate, temperature range, strong winds and long periods of sunshine during the ripening season.

The red wines of the Patagonia wine region are complex with intense colors and excellent typicity. Wine lovers are giving increased attention to the La Pampa area of Patagonia where excellent Cabernet Franc wines are produced. These wines have added to the catalogue of diverse wines produced in Patagonia and have hints of red fruit, elegant tannins, and tasting notes of pepper. The Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon red wines of Patagonia are grown at higher altitudes in the region where the soils are stony and irrigation levels are higher. This allows for the production of fruitier wines with intense colors and refined tannins. Patagonian Merlot wines are described as smooth and balanced with intense aromas. The Malbec of the region has an intense ruby color with aromas of black cherries, lavender, biscuits, and spices. The palate of the wine is dry with refreshing acidity, a medium body, balanced flavors, and ripe tannins. While Malbec still plays a central role in Patagonian wine, it is Pinot Noir that has become the region’s iconic grape variety.

Patagonian wines pair well with regional dishes and local ingredients. Given the cool climate, the wines often exhibit freshness and vibrant acidity, making them ideal with grilled lamb, game meats, salmon, trout, and local cheeses.

Excellent white wines made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling also showcase the freshness of the region’s climate.

Patagonia’s location in the southern latitudes and its cool climate contribute to the production of elegant and expressive wines. The region’s temperature variations, longer growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts create favorable conditions for producing wines with freshness, complexity, and vibrant acidity.

Guillermo Barzi Canale “Patagonia is synonymous of mountains, lakes, desert, glaciers, land of dinosaurs, magic, purity and also elegant and sophisticated wines.”

Type of testing: Open

Presenter: Jaime Estupiñán

Participants: S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; R. Connolly; C. Estrada;J. Estupiñan; J. Garcia; N. Marzella; C. and A. Perazza; L. J. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Santiago; E. Silva; M. Simões; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; G. Vega, and G. Zincke.

The Wines

Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc, 2022. Rio Negro, Patagonia (JS 92)
Pinot Noir 2021, Neuquen Patagonia. (JS 93).
Wapisa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019, Patagonia, Argentina. (JS 92).
Humberto Canale Gran Reserva Merlot 2019, Rio Negro Argentina.

Menu

Seafood salad.
Agnolotti with tomato sauce.
Grilled Lamb shops, potatoes and vegetables.
Desert, coffee, tea.

Information on the Wines and the wineries

1 – WAPISA SAUVIGNON BLANC. 2022, Rio Negro, PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Winemaker Notes

With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region. Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.

James Suckling JS92

A very fresh, reductive sauvignon blanc with gooseberries and some oyster shell minerality. Fresh and dry on the palate with crisp, limey fruit and bright, electric acidity. Gastronomic, mouthwatering finish.

VINOUS: 89 PTS

Product Details

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Region: Patagonia, Argentina Producer: Wapisa Vintage: 2022 Size: 750ML ABV: 13.8% Features: Screw Cap

Winemaker notes: With its distinctive, vivid aromas and saline acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region.

Citrus and white flowers aromas stand out with a delicate touch of ginger. On the palate citrus flavors with pink grapefruit and lime accompanied with the tropical guava. It is a fresh and intense specimen, with a balanced acidity.

Critical Acclaim

James Suckling JS92

Producer: Wapisa Winery

https://vinodelsol.com/?wpfb_dl=1793

Revolutionary is the word Patricia Ortiz, owner of Wapisa, uses to describe the winery. Not only is Wapisa the only Coastal Winery in Patagonia, but it is the only winery in Argentina to age wines under the sea. Inspired by the coastal influences, Patricia decided to incorporate the ocean into the aging process. The pressurized atmosphere with its constant temperature provides perfect conditions for aging wines.

“Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale.” Not only do whales frequent the nearby coast of the winery’s vineyards, but a local legend talks of a wapisa that actually lived on land. The wines, like the Wapisa, are an expression not just of their soils but of the nearby ocean as well.

Located in San Javier, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina, Wapisa is just 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and is the only winery that exists in this unique coastal terroir. Our vineyard “Finca Los Acantilados” is an estate that stands out for its lime clay soils, good acidity and little organic matter. The terroir is complemented by the outstanding thermal amplitude, highlighted by cool maritime breezes that sweep over the vineyards at night, leading to balanced and fruity wines with a touch of salinity and a delicate varietal expression. As Master of Wine Tim Atkin stated, this is “the new Argentina.”

Patricia and her winery are dedicated to preserving the land and the sea. The winery is not only follows sustainable practices, but Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the California Ocean Alliance California Ocean Alliance.

The wines are made by Jean Claude Berrouet the recently-retired winemaker of Chateau Petrus, having presided over 44 vintages at this revered Bordeaux winery. Every wine they produce has gotten huge press from The Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling.

2 – KOSKIL PINOT NOIR 2021, NEUQUEN, PATAGONIA.

Product Details

Country / State: Argentina Region: Patagonia Brand: Koskil Wine Type: Red Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir Style: Elegant ABV: 13.5% Taste: Vanilla, Floral, Cherry Body: Medium-bodied

Food Pairings: Beef, Pork, Chicken

Product Highlights

Rating Source: James Suckling-Patagonia Argentina, Points: 93: “Notes of cherries, wild strawberries, pomegranate peel and light spices. Fresh and crunchy with medium body and soft tannins. It has a smooth silky texture and a delicious fruit profile, with notes of blue flowers. Flavorful finish.” Vanilla, Floral, Cherry.

Average Rating 3.7 (231 Ratings)

Producer: Koskil Winery

Produced in Neuquén, Patagonia. Estate bottled. Bottled for Group PENAFLOR.

The Group PENAFLOR es el mayor productor y exportador de vinos de Argentina.

Bottle description: The early inhabitants of the remote lands of Patagonia believed in a supreme God named Kooch, whose breath originated strong wind that separated the waters from the earth. That blustery winds weeping across the Patagonia towards the Atlantic was called Koskil, the wind that defines our terroir. It shapes our identity more than any other natural phenomenon. Its presence determine our features, our costumes, our life. Its dryness protect vines and preserve their health. And it gives our wine its name: Koskil.

3 – WAPISA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019, Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina.

Product Details

Country: Argentina Region: Patagonia Vintage: 2019 Winery: Wapisa Grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon Alcohol: 14.1% Size: 750 ml Organic wine: Yes Natural wine: Yes

Winemaker Notes: Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate.

CRITICAL ACCLAIM

James Suckling – “Intense red color. Aromas and flavors of black fruits and plum jam. Spicy aromas such as eucalyptus and black pepper. Its passage through oak gives it flavors of coffee and chocolate”

James Suckling 93 points ( 2017 y 2018)

Producer: Wapisa Winery. See information above.

4. HUMBERTO CANALE GRAN RESERVA MERLOT 2019, RION NEGRO, PATAGONIA, Argentina.

Product details

Composition: Merlot varietal 100% Origin: Old vineyards in General Roca, Upper Valley of Rio Negro, Patagonia. Alcohol: 14.0% Total acidity: 5.02 gr/L Residual Sugar: 2.05 gr/L

Harvest: At the end of March. Carefully harvested by hand, immediately sent to cellar, distant to 1km from the vineyard, in small containers. Yield: 7,000 Kgs/hectare.

Development: The grapes are received in small containers and a selection of clusters is carried out, after the destemming a cold pre-fermentation maceration is carried out for 48-72 HS, alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperature (25 ° to 27 º C) in cement vessels of 9000 Lts of capacity for a period of 20 days with periodic reassembly and Delestage. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent aging in new French and American oak barrels for a period of 12 months and then bottling. Period of storage in bottle for 6 months before marketing.

Guarda: 8 years.

Winemaker testing notes: Intense ruby red color, fruity and spices aromas. A modern, round, soft and subtle wine. No doubt Merlot is one of the varieties that best adapts to the particular climatic conditions of this region. In this case it is one of the few Argentinian Merlots produced with good concentration and important potential of Guarda. It has a bright and intense purple color. Warm, very intense and enveloping Aroma. It seduces by its complexity, highlighting the notes contributed by its passage in wood, which are mixed well with the red fruits contributed by the variety. In the mouth presents a powerful body, with a lot of concentration and very pleasant fruity flavor. Long end and pleasing remembrance. Its structure and potent tannins reveal an important potential of guard.

Pairing: Red meats such as lamb and Southern deer and pasta stuffed with meat sauces.

Producer: Humberto Canale Winery

Going through the history of the winery Humberto Canale is like traveling throughout the history of the upper valley of the Rio Negro: From its beginnings with the arrival of the railway and the irrigation canals, until the present day, eleven decades and five generations later.

The winery originated in 1909, shortly after the conquest of the Patagonian desert (between 1878 and 1885), when its founder, the engineer Humberto Canale, along with other governmental executives from President Roca’s administration (1898-1904) , went through the place to implement irrigation systems in the region

Humberto Canale Winery is located near General Roca city, in the heart of the Alto Valle of Rio Negro, Patagonia. It is a family company founded by Engineer Humberto Canale in 1909. Four generations later, the founder’s wisdom regarding handmade processes is combined with the most updated techniques, and the result is the production of fine wines of international quality. At present the winery is managed by Engineer Guillermo Barzi Canale. The company owns 150 has. The old vineyards where traditional French varieties are found: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon among the red ones, and Semillón, Sauvignon Blanc Viognier and Torrontés among the white ones.

The grapes generally ripen twenty days later than in the Cuyo region. This happens at the beginning of autumn, when the days are warm and the nights are cold; a slow maturation occurs and the grapes reach an excellent balance between sugar and natural acidity. The combination of these factors produces wines of great intensity of color and character. Finally, we include a quotation by the enologists’ master, Mr. Raul de la Mota: “In Rio Negro, wines as famous as the French ones may be produced. The grapes of that Argentine region are excellent, vigorous and with peculiar features that are different from those of the rest of the country. Among others, I was amazed with the Pinot Noir and the Cabernet varieties. This region has a specific enological personality and a highly valuable viticulture may be developed in it.”

Currently, the Humberto Canale establishment has 5000 hectares, 150 of vineyards and the rest of fruit trees that is sold in the market as an PAI partner

The winery produces 1,500,000 kilograms of grapes per year, has a capacity of more than 1,700.000 bottles per year and storage capacity for 3,200,000 liters. The varietals: Franc, Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot Pinot Noir, Riesling ,Sauvignon Blanc, Semillón.

Additional information on the Patagonia Argentina.

Guide to the Patagonia Region

Move over Mendoza. Patagonia is the new Malbec producing kid in Argentina. This may seem unlikely, since Patagonia’s wine regions are so far south. In fact, they’re the southernmost regions in the world. Yet since the 1990s, there’s been an explosion of investment here, as it has attracted some of the biggest names in international luxury winemaking.

Patagonia is home to three important sub-regions. Out of this trio, only Río Negro had a viticultural history pre-1990s. Unlike the others, its vineyard area is declining as growers swap quality for quantity. By contrast, vineyard land increased by 82 percent in the Neuquén subregion and by 73 percent in the La Pampa subregion between 2002 and 2012.

Argentina’s signature red grape, Malbec, is Patagonia’s preferred variety and makes up about 40 percent of its more than 4500ha/11,000acres of cultivated vineyards. The area’s vineyards are planted between 300 and 500 meters (985 to 1,640 feet) above sea level, which allows the grapes to be cooled by Andean winds rather than altitude. Patagonia’s wide diurnal temperature swings also make it an inviting region for white varieties.

The Complex and Characterful Wines of Patagonia Wine Region

Travel Guide to Patagonia Wine Region

Patagonia is the southernmost wine-producing wine region in Argentina. This winemaking region spans the provinces of Rio Negro, La Pampa, and Neuquen. Patagonia wine region is often overlooked for viticulture as a result of its desert landscapes and cool, dry climates which do not seem suitable for the cultivation of vines. Despite this, over time Patagonia wineries have become internationally acclaimed for the production of elegant red wines made from Pinot Noir and Malbec grapes. Patagonia wine region is fast becoming one of the most well-recognized wine regions in Argentina thanks to its excellent and high-quality wines and interesting landscapes. This unique and interesting winemaking region is the perfect place to explore the best Argentinean wines.

Rio Negro and Neuquen

The two most well-known areas of viticulture in Patagonia wine region are Rio Negro and Neuquen. The wines produced in these two regions are traditionally European in character. Neuquen is located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, while Rio Negro is located higher up on Patagonia mountains slopes.

RioNegro Region

Rio Negro is the most southerly wine region in South America, located in the north of the Patagonia region. The climate is cooler than in much of the rest of Argentina and elegant, cool-climate styles of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec are produced here.

The Rio Negro River is formed at the convergence of the Andean meltwater rivers Neuquen and Limay and then flows 530km (310 miles) to the Atlantic Ocean in the east. In the 1820s, British colonists dug irrigation channels into the dry, arid Patagonian desert on both sides of the Negro, forming a green belt along the river that is suitable for agriculture.

While viticulture is a significant part of this, the Rio Negro is most famous for the apple and pear orchards that are found along its banks. The Rio Negro valley is divided roughly into three: the Alto Valle (in the west), the Valle Medio and the Valle Inferior (closest to the ocean).

Most viticulture takes place in the Alto Valle, around the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay, on the edge of the Neuquen province (whose western border sits on the peaks of the Andes). The mountains have little influence on the vineyards here, however; it is the river that contributes the most to the region’s terroir.

The dry climate has proved itself well suited to the growth of Vitis vinifera. Hot summers and cold winters ensure a consistency of climate that allows viticulturists a degree of predictability in the harvest.

While the altitude is very low by Argentinean standards – around 250m (820ft) above sea level – the region is still subject to a pronounced diurnal temperature variation, where warm days are followed by cold nights. This lengthens the growing season and leads to a balance of rich fruit characters and acidity in the wines.

Rio Negro’s soils are mostly alluvial, and are made up of gravel with a considerable limestone component. These are well drained, so growers are able to carefully control the water intake and growth of their vines through irrigation. Slightly parched vines put resources into producing small, concentrated berries rather than luxurious, leafy foliage.

Rio Negro is one of Argentina’s up-and-coming wine regions, and more and more producers are exploring its viticultural potential.

Rio Negro: Patagonia Wine’s Heart and Soul

If there is an epicenter to Patagonia wine, it would have to be Rio Negro, a fertile river valley which has been under vine for more than a century. As a result, Rio Negro is home to some of the oldest vineyards in the region, a feature that has attracted many of Argentina’s brightest winemaking talents.

While wine can be made just about anywhere, fine wine requires a specific set of conditions, and Rio Negro has all of them: Low humidity. Warm, dry summers. Cool nights that allow the grapes to retain acidity. Relatively austere soils poor in organic matter. The list goes on.

Rio Negro has two additional advantages not found in many other fine wine regions.

First, wind is omnipresent. Wind keeps the grapes dry, which reduces the risk of fungal disease. Second, Rio Negro’s latitude — between 38 and 42° South — means that it gets an extra hour of sunshine during the growing season than other wine regions such as Mendoza. Sunshine is critical for color and flavor development, and Rio Negro has it in abundance.

Neuquen Region

Neuquen is a very young wine-producing region on the Patagonian plains of southern Argentina. Wine has been made here on a commercial scale only since the early 2000s, but the region has already shown both significant growth and promise. The region produces wine ranging from good-value to ultra-premium, mostly from Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Officially, the province of Neuquen covers a large area of northern Patagonia, just to the south of Argentina’s most prolific wine region of Mendoza. The Andes mountain range runs up the western side of the province, separating Argentina from Chile, and the border with Rio Negro covers both the southern and eastern boundaries of Neuquen.

In practice, winemaking is contained to a area of 1,400 hectares (3,500 acres) surrounding the small town of San Patricio del Chana on the Neuquen River. Around 85 percent of grape production from the area is given over to red varieties with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir best suited to the terroir. Popular white varieties are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The first commercial vineyards in the region were planted as recently as 1999, after wine producers were encouraged by the international success of the wines of Mendoza. A large area of land on the edge of the Neuquen River was developed and planted with vines – the first large-scale vintage being released in 2003.

The pioneering winery that developed the land, Bodega del Fin del Mundo, has since sold off pockets to other premium producers, encouraging the growth of Neuquen as a wine region in the past decade.

The Neuquen viticultural region is markedly different from most of the rest of Argentina. Elevations here reach only about 300 meters (1,000feet) above sea level – relatively low for a country where the highest vineyards are found at altitudes of around 3,000m (10,000ft). The climate is significantly cooler than in Mendoza, and the Andes, 240 kilometers (150 miles) to the west, have little to no effect on viticulture in Neuquen.

Strong desert winds and hot sun combine to provide a climate in Neuquen that is sufficiently temperate for viticulture. Warm, sunny days are followed by brisk desert nights, and the diurnal temperature variation that results extends the growing season. This allows the grapes time to develop fruit complexity without sacrificing acidity, and the wines are well balanced as a result.

This windy part of the desert is fed by the Neuquen River, which brings meltwater from the Andes to hydrate the vineyards. The stony alluvial soils are well drained, and allow root systems to grow deeply into the ground in order to access important minerals and hydration. The healthy vines that result produce high-quality grapes with an excellent concentration of sugars and acids.

6. CV Members Rating
The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the
tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.

CV Members Rating

The tasting took place before revealing the wines’ prices. 19 participants rated them from
Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting.
Wapisa ‘Sauvignon Blanc’, Patagonia, 2022; and Humberto Canale ‘Gran Reserva Merlot’,
2019 were rated as Best Wines and Koskil, ‘Pinot Noir’, Patagonia, 2021 the Best Buy. The
following Table presents the details of individual ratings and combined results.