Tasting No. 280 Aromas in White Wines – August 26, 2025

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 280 – August 26, 2025

Aromas in White Wines 

 

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this blind tasting was to explore and discuss the characteristics of key aromas in white wines, without any attempt to identify the wines being tasted. White wines of different grape varieties and/or winemaking techniques were selected for this tasting.

 

Type of tasting: Blind

 

Presenters: Sergio Ardila and Cesar Falconi

 

Participants:  S. Ardila; J. Brakarz;J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Falconi; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; A  and C. Perazza; J. Requena; C. Santelices; L. Uechi; and G. Vega.

 

  1. The Menu

  • Fruit salad with goat cheese
  • Ravioli with white sauce
  • Roasted pork with potatoes
  • Dessert, tea or coffee

 

  1. Overview of Wine’s General Characteristics 

When evaluating red and white wines, you’re looking for a balance of several key characteristics that contribute to the overall experience. While some characteristics are universal, others are more pronounced or specific to one type of wine.

The main characteristics we look for in a good wine are:

  • Acidity: This gives wine its refreshing, crisp, and sometimes tart quality. It’s the “mouth-watering” sensation you feel. Acidity acts as a preservative and provides structure. Higher acidity can make a wine feel lighter.
  • Sweetness (Residual Sugar): Wines can range from bone-dry (no perceptible sugar) to lusciously sweet. Sweetness is due to residual sugar left after fermentation. It balances acidity and can contribute to body.
  • Body/Mouthfeel: This refers to how the wine feels in your mouth – its weight and richness. Factors like alcohol content, residual sugar, and oak aging contribute to body.
  • Aroma/Flavor Profile: This is what you smell and taste. Wines can have a vast array of aromas and flavors, often categorized according to their origins:
  • Primary Aromas/Flavors: From the grape itself (fruits, florals, herbs, spices, earthy notes).
  • Secondary Aromas/Flavors: From the winemaking process (e.g., yeast, butter from malolactic fermentation, toast or vanilla from oak aging).
  • Tertiary Aromas/Flavors: From aging in the bottle (e.g., dried fruit, leather, mushroom, nutty notes).

  • Balance: This is crucial for a good wine. It means all the elements (acidity, sweetness, tannin, alcohol, fruit) are in harmony, with none overpowering the others.
  • Finish/Length: This is the lingering impression of the wine in your mouth after you’ve swallowed it. A long, pleasant finish is a sign of quality.
  • Complexity: A complex wine reveals multiple layers of aromas and flavors that evolve as you taste it. It’s not one-dimensional.
  • Clarity & Color:
  • Clarity: The wine should be clear, not cloudy, unless it’s a specific style of natural wine that intentionally has some haze.
  • Color: The hue can indicate age, grape varietal, and winemaking techniques.

In red wines, Tannins is a key characteristic, derived primarily from grape skins, seeds, and stems, and sometimes from oak aging. They provide structure and allow red wines to age well. Tannins can be described as ripe, smooth, rustic, or green.

Specific Characteristics for White Wines

  • Acidity: generally, white wines tend to have higher acidity than red wines, contributing to their refreshing quality.
  • Color: White wines range from pale straw yellow with green tinges (young, unoaked) to deeper golden hues (oaked, older, or from warmer climates).
  • Typical Flavors: white wines commonly exhibit: i) citrus notes (lemon, lime, grapefruit), ii) tree fruits (apple, pear), iii) stone fruits (peach, apricot), iv) tropical fruits (pineapple, mango), v) floral notes, and often vi) mineral or herbaceous undertones.
  • Absence of Tannins (mostly): white wines are typically made without skin contact during fermentation, meaning they have very little to no tannin (unless aged in new oak barrels, which can impart some).

  1. The Influence of Aroma on Flavor

When tasting wines, the influence of aroma on their flavor and other characteristics, especially in white wines, is fundamental and crucial. In fact, the perception of flavor is overwhelmingly linked to the sense of smell. The sense of smell accounts for 80% of what we perceive as flavor. While the tongue detects basic tastes (sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami), it is the nose that distinguishes the nuances and specific notes, such as fruits, flowers, spices, etc. To prove this, one only needs to hold their nose while tasting a food or drink: the flavors are perceived as much more muted and less defined.

What distinguishes white wines from reds or rosés are the essential aromas and sensations perceived on the palate. White wine is therefore fresh, light, and subtle, and presents flavors highly appreciated by the finest palates.

The wine releases different aromas, each one coming from the terroir, the grape variety, the winemaking technique, or even the wine’s aging process. These aromas are revealed in different stages of the tasting:

  1. Olfactory analysis of white wine

The olfactory examination allows for the identification of the wine’s “nose” (the aromas), thanks to the phenomenon of retro-olfaction. Even before bringing the wine to the mouth, the sense of smell can guide us and deliver the wine’s “bouquet” through two stages:

  • The first nose: This first step consists of smelling the wine in the glass, even before swirling it. It allows for the discovery of possible wine defects, such as cork taint or a vinegar smell.
  • The second nose: This second step consists of swirling the wine in the glass to aerate it and release the aromas. In the second nose, the olfactory analysis already allows us to become aware of the wine’s origins (grape variety, wine region, winemaking method, etc.).

The olfactory analysis of a white wine can indicate whether the wine is “closed” or “open”. We speak of a closed wine when no striking aroma is discovered in the first nose. The wine seems bland and monotonous, very unexpressive. This can then indicate that the white wine is in a so-called “transition phase” of its evolution. The best thing to do then is to help it evolve by decanting it.

  1. Retro-olfactation

When drinking wine, volatile aromatic molecules travel from the mouth through the internal passages to the olfactory receptors in the nose. This process, known as retro-olfaction, is what creates the perception of “flavor” that we associate with the specific notes of the wine.

  1. Aromas in White Wines

White wines offer a delightful and diverse range of aromas, influenced by the grape varietal, the climate it’s grown in, and winemaking techniques. These aromas can be broadly categorized into three types:

  1. Primary Aromas (Varietal Aromas): These come directly from the grape itself. They are the freshest and often most prominent scents in young white wines. This aroma category includes: citrus fruits; tree fruits; stone fruits; tropical fruits; floral; herbal/vegetal; mineral.
  2. Secondary Aromas (Winemaking Aromas): These develop during the fermentation and aging processes.These include: yeast/bread/brioche; dairy/cream/butter; nutty; vanilla/toast/spice.
  3. Tertiary Aromas (Aging Aromas): These develop as the wine matures in the bottle over time. Not all white wines are meant for long aging, but those that are can develop fascinating complexities. These include: dried fruit; honey/caramel; nutty, sherry-like notes; earthy/mushroom; petrol/kerosene.

Understanding these different aroma categories and how they relate to grape varietals and winemaking methods will greatly enhance your enjoyment and appreciation of white wines.  To help guide our tasting, Sergio distributed a tasting sheet detailing the specifics of these categories of aromas, and explained how we should carry out the tasting.

Examples of aromatic profiles in white wines 

White wines offer a fascinating spectrum of aromas. Here you can find a breakdown of some white wines with distinct aromatic profiles (link pdf).  aromaticprofiles

6. The Wines

After the tasting Sergio and Cesar revealed the wines described below, and more detailed
description about their main characteristics and profiles was shared with the participants.

A. Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, 2023

Merry Edwards winery is located in the Russian River Valley, California, and is committed to sustainable practices. The winery is highly acclaimed for its Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and its portfolio also includes Chardonnay.
This 100% Sauvignon Blanc varietal is known for its crisp, bright acidity, which is balanced by a silky, creamy texture. Technical data for the 2023 vintage indicates a pH of 3.35 and an alcohol content of 14% ABV.
In terms of aromas, the wine is described as highly aromatic, with a prominent tropical fruit profile. Notes of white pineapple, passionfruit, mango, and guava are complemented by floral hints of plumeria, gardenia, and honeysuckle, as well as citrus accents like lemon curd, lime zest, and ruby red grapefruit. The palate is clean and bright with a long, refreshing finish.

B. Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2023

Ramey Wine Cellars is an iconic California winery located in Healdsburg, Sonoma County. Their Russian River Valley Chardonnay is a benchmark for the region, known for its balance of richness and bright acidity. It is a blend from several cool-climate, low-vigor vineyard sites in the Russian River Valley, primarily planted with the UC Davis Clone 4, known for its prominent acidity. The wine is celebrated for its energetic and vibrant acidity, which provides a crisp, fresh backbone and sense of structure, balancing its rich texture.
The alcohol content can be 13.5% or 14.5% ABV, depending on the specific bottle.
In terms of aromas, the nose is complex and inviting, with aromas of green apple, Meyer lemon, pear, and hints of tangerine and lime.
Subtle notes of lemon blossoms and baking spices from the oak aging add to the complexity. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and layered, with flavors of ripe stone and orchard fruit (white peach, apricot) complemented by vanilla, toasted brioche, and a distinctive minerality.
The finish is long, expressive, and showcases a beautiful balance of creamy texture and lively acidity.

C. Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaime, 2023   Rated Best Buy and Best Wine by the participant Club members.

Domaine des Chenevières is a family-run winery located in Mâcon region of Burgundy, France, with a history spanning six generations. The Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume is a classic expression of Chablis unique, mineral-driven style. Sourced from the esteemed Fourchaume vineyard, this wine benefits from the Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils that are characteristic of the region, which impart a distinctive flinty quality. The 2023 vintage is described as having a vibrant acidity that provides a fresh and lively backbone to the wine. This acidity is a key component that makes the wine feel crisp and well-structured, balancing out its richness.
In terms of aromas, the wine is noted for its complexity and finesse. It offers a
bouquet of citrus, such as lemon and lime, along with green apple, white peach, and hints of floral notes. The palate is rich and full-bodied but maintains a mineral edge, with a long, clean finish that lingers.
Alcohol content for this vintage is generally around 13.5% ABV.

D. Trimbach Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes, 2019

Maison Trimbach is one of the most esteemed and historic wineries in Alsace, France, with a legacy dating back to 1626. The Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes is a special bottling from Trimbach, a testament to the depth and complexity that old, low-yielding vines can achieve.
The 2019 vintage is characterized by its vibrant, incisive, and very precise acidity. This racy acidity provides a clean, fresh backbone that balances the wine concentration and structure.
The alcohol content for this vintage is approximately 14% ABV.
In terms of aromas, the wine is celebrated for its superb aromatic concentration. It presents a complex bouquet of citrus, including lemon, lime, and tangerine, along with notes of white flowers, white peach, and wet slate. On the palate, it is rich, full-bodied, and silky, with a long, mineral-driven finish. As it ages, classic Riesling notes of petrol and honey may emerge.

  1. CV Members Rating 

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 10 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following T able. In the final results, the Chablis Premier Cru ‘Fourchaume’, 2023 was the Best Wine and the Best Buy.

 

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Tasting No 279 – July 29, 2025 The best Merlot regions

Posted on July 22, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 279 – July 29, 2025

The best Merlot regions from around the world

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  • Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore wines from the best Merlot regions of the Old World – particularly the indigenous wines from the famous appellations of Pomerol and Saint Émilion of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, France – and from the New World, especially the intriguing new wines from Napa Valley, California, USA and Colchagua Valley, Chile. This is an open tasting.

Presenters: Cristian Santelices, Jorge Claro y Luis Uechi

Participants: (to be completed after the meeting)

 

These are the wines:

  1. Château Haut Cardinal, St Éilion – AOC, Grand Cru Classé, 2018
  2. Merelo Coastal Slopes Single Vineyard Merlot, Colchagua Valley – DO, 2021
  3. Château La Pointe, Pomerol – AOC, 2019
  4. Stephanie Merlot, Napa Valley – AVA, 2018

 

  • The Menu

  • Caprese Salad with Garden Pesto on the side
  • Traditional Lasagna
  • Grilled lamb chops with brown sauce 
  • Dessert, coffee, tea.

 

  • The Merlot Grape Variety

Brief history. Originating in the hills of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, researchers showed in the late 1990s that Merlot variety is an offspring of the native French grapes Cabernet Franc and Magdeleine Noire des Charentes; and is a half-sibling of Carménère, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabs). The Merlot grape has a deep black-blue color and a thin, delicate skin. Its name derives from the local little blackbird (called merlau in the local variant of Occitan language, merle in standard French) who liked eating the ripe grapes on the vine. Merlot entered the wine scene in the late 1700s. The earliest recorded mention of Merlot was in the notes of a French wine official who in 1784 labeled wine made from the grape as one of the Right Bank area’s best. Within 75 years it was planted throughout Bordeaux, where it first earned praise as a powerful blending wine to add softness and lushness to the favorite grape of the region, Cabs – this match led to the world-renowned Bordeaux blend, which has delighted wine enthusiasts for centuries – and then began to spread across the world throughout the 19th and 20th century as both a blending grape and for varietal wines. Although it thrives in the maritime climate and clay and limestone soil that characterize Bordeaux, part of Merlot’s success is its adaptability to grow in a variety of soils and climates, which enables it to flourish in most wine-producing countries across the globe. The winemakers called it the “chameleon variety” because, regardless of where it was grown, it developed differently, offering distinct shades. The International Merlot Grape Day, celebrated on November 7th, is a relatively recent event created to promote and honor one of the most noble and most elegant grape varieties in the world, as well as one of the most widely cultivated.

Viticulture: Compared to Cabs, Merlot grapes have a thinner skin and fewer tannins per unit volume, a higher sugar content, lower malic acid, and it normally ripens up to 2 weeks earlier. Merlot thrives in the maritime climate and clay and limestone soil. Water stress is important to the vine with it thriving in well-drained soil. Pruning is a major component to the quality of the wine that is produced with some producers believing it is best to prune the vine “short” (cutting back to only a few buds) and to reduce the yields of Merlot grapes to improve quality. The age of the vine is also important, with older vines contributing character to the resulting wine. One characteristic of the Merlot grape is the propensity to quickly overripen once it hits its initial ripeness level, sometimes in a matter of a few days. There are two schools of thought on the right time to harvest Merlot: (i) The traditional “Bordeaux-style” favors early picking to best maintain the wine’s acidity and finesse as well as its potential for aging, and produces more medium-bodied wines with moderate alcohol levels that have fresh, red fruit flavors (raspberries, strawberries) and potentially leafy, vegetal notes. (ii) The “International style” (favored by many New World wine regions) tends to emphasize late harvesting to gain physiological ripeness and produce inky, purple-colored wines that are fruit forwarded with hints of plum and blackberry, full in body with high alcohol and lush, velvety tannins.

How Is Merlot Wine Made? To begin the winemaking, vintners take care to remove all stems from the Merlot grapes to decrease the tannin level and bitterness of the wine. The grapes get fermented at 28°C to 30°C (82 to 86°F) with the skins on, which lends the wine a rich red color. Because they have thinner skin than other red wine grapes, Merlot wine naturally has a lower tannin level. During the fermentation, many producers will push down on the skins 3 times a day to keep them wet. Time spent in skins varies between vintners, but an average is 14 to 21 days – for a softer finish, producers keep the wine for fewer days on the skins. Following the fermentation process, winemakers store Merlot inside oak barrels at a temperature of 20°C (68°F), or a little below, and typically age it for about 8 months to a year. Like with any wine, vintners can make variations during the process to change the flavor profile of a Merlot. The degree of aeration, force of press, time of harvest and temperature all contribute to the unique character of each Merlot variety.

What kind of wine is Merlot? With a velvet-red color and medium-to-full body, this fruity wine falls between Pinot noir and Syrah wines in fullness and hue. Merlot has a higher ABV, ranging from 13 to 15%, a result of the grape’s naturally higher sugar levels. While Merlot is a dry wine, it is sweeter than other reds. Because of Merlot’s milder flavor and lower tannin levels, winemakers often use it in blends to soften stronger red wines, especially Cabs. Vineyards sometimes age Merlot in oak to increase its richness or complexity during the winemaking process. Merlot is truly an international grape, and its wine comes in many different styles. “Old World” Merlots (or made in the traditional “Bordeaux-style” especially from locations of the Right Bank of Bordeaux like Saint Émilion and Pomerol) is incredibly complex and takes time to develop and mature. Conversely, “New World” Merlots (or made in the “International Style”) are often grown in warmer climates which brings out more of the plummy, fruity characteristics. These require little to no aging and are usually ready to drink as soon as you buy them. Despite Merlot’s popularity in its home region, winemakers did not produce it as a single variant until the grape traveled outside France (see United States in seccion 4 of this blog) 

Merlot’s Taste Profile. The most notable aromas and flavors of Merlot wine are those of fruit. Often it carries raspberry notes, as well as plum, black cherry, blueberries and even jam, which give many Merlots an aroma similar to fruitcake. Other common notes of Merlot include graphite, cedar, tobacco, vanilla, cloves and chocolate. While it is a dry wine, Merlot is comparatively low in tannins. That creates a smoother, less bitter experience, and makes Merlot softer and easier to consume. However, depending on the climate where the grapes grow, Merlot wines can have a diverse array of flavors: (i) Cool-climate varieties are the classic Merlot. From the hills of France, Italy and Chile, these strains feature “earthy flavors” like tobacco and tar. Due to their higher concentration of tannins, it’s easy to confuse these Merlots with Cabernets, their regional counterpart. These Merlots contribute to the renowned Right Bank Bordeaux blends, along with vintage strains such as Saint Émilion and Pomerol. (ii) Warm-Climate Merlots heavily feature “fruit notes” and a lighter body. Grown in the sun-filled valleys of California (CA) – classic warm-climate Merlots come from Napa Valley and Paso Robles – and Australia, these wines have a lower tannin presence and a softer finish. Vintners sometimes prefer an oak-aging process of up to 24 months, which gives the delicate wine more structure.

 

  1. Regions of production 

The wines to be tasted come from France (The Right Bank of Bordeaux), United States (Napa Valley), and Chile (Colchagua Valley)

Merlot’s versatility in growing on various soils and climates, combined with its use as both a blending grape and for high-quality varietal wines, has contributed to its status as one of the most popular red wine varieties in many markets. This popularity has made it one of the world’s most widely planted wine grape varieties. In 2016, approximately 266,000 hectares were planted globally, out of an estimated total of 1.966.000 hectares for the top 10 wine-grapevine varieties. As a result, Merlot’s global ranking increased from 4th to 2nd place, representing 5.93% of the world’s top 10 vineyard areas – up from 3% in 1990. It is now just behind Cabs, which covered 340,000 hectares, nearly 7% of the top 10 vineyard areas – up from 2% in 1990 when it was 8th in the global rank.

Merlot thrives in moderate to warm climates and on varied terrains, particularly in clay soils. Generally it offers a consistent profile of soft texture and ripe fruit flavors, but these can vary based on the region. Some of the top-producing Merlot grape countries are: France (112,000 hectares); Italy (24,000 hectares); USA (21,000 hectares); China (16,000 hectares); Chile (12,000 hectares); Spain (12,000 hectares); Romania (12,000 hectares), and Australia (8,000 hectares). Every terroir where the grapes thrive produces slightly different characteristics in the wine.

FRANCE. Merlot is the most commonly grown grape variety in France, which is home to more than 40% of the world’s total plantings (112,000 hectares out of 266,000 hectares), covering 14% of France’s bearing area, and notably accounting for about 55% of overall plantings in Bordeaux, its birthplace. In the traditional Bordeaux blend, Merlot’s role is to smooth out the wines. It is often blended with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Cabs, and Petit Verdot. Despite accounting for 50-60% of overall plantings in Bordeaux, the grape tends to account for an average of 25% of the blends. However, Merlot is much more prominent on the Right Bank of the Gironde, where it will commonly comprise the majority of the blend, but you can also find fine single varietal expressions. 

In the appellation of Pomerol – the smallest wine producing area in the Bordeaux region, with only 813 hectares, less than 1% of Bordeaux’s bearing area, it is more a community where the vineyards are family-shared -, Merlot usually accounts for around 80% of the blend, and the iron-clay soils of the region give the grape more of a tannic backbone than what is found in other Bordeaux regions. The wines express robust flavors of black cherry, plum, and subtle truffle notes while offering a velvety texture. They become meaty and chocolatey with age and can improve for decades. The elegance of these wines results from the perfect blend with Cabernet Franc, influenced by Pomerol’s distinctive terroir. It was in Pomerol that the garagistes movement began with small-scale production of highly sought after Merlot-based wines – one of the most famous and rare wines in the world, Château Pétrus, is almost all Merlot and produced here in a small estate of just 11.4 hectares; it only produces around 30,000 bottles per year – a 750 ml bottle of Pétrus wine is priced at an average of $4,112, and produces no second wine.

In the sandy, clay-limestone-based soils of the appellation of Saint-Émilion – its 5,400 hectares represent 6% of the total Bordeaux vineyard – Merlot accounts for around 60% of the blend and is usually blended with Cabernet Franc and Cabs. Saint-Émilion was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 (Jurisdiction of Saint-Emilion) as a cultural landscape, demonstrating a long, living history of wine-making -dating from Roman times. Limestone and clay soils here contribute to structured, complex Merlot wines, which tend to develop more perfume and fresh mineral notes – expect blackcurrant and dark cherry, with hints of chocolate and spice, while sandy soils produce wines that are generally softer than Merlot grown in clay dominant soils. 

UNITED STATES (US). The US has also become a significant presence in the Merlot world cultivating around 8% of the world’s total plantings. Covering around 8.7% of US’ bearing area in 2016, Merlot is the 4th most planted wine grape after Chardonnay (17.9%), Cabs (17%), and Pinot Noir (10.4%), with California and Washington State growing the most alongside Cabs. Compared to France, you’ll find riper, more fruit-forward styles in general, but each state and AVA produce different wines based on their unique terroir. Specifically in Californa, the style of Merlot can vary from very fruity simple wines to more serious, barrel aged examples – it can also be used as a primary component in Bordeaux-style blends – with the grape being found all across the state in both warmer and cooler climate regions. 

Merlot arrived in California in the mid-19th century but remained relatively obscure until after World War II, when vintners began using Merlot primarily to develop stand-alone labeled varietal wine, due to Americans’ love of the lightness and lower tannin levels of the wine – though some winemakers encouraged taking the grape back to its blending roots with Bordeaux-style blends. As the winemaking industry in CA grew, vintners recognized Merlot as an easy and fast rise grape to produce in large quantities. Its ability to mass produce, coupled with its milder flavor, caused Merlot to skyrocket to fame. Red wine consumption, in general, increased in the US following the 1991 airing of the ‘60 Minutes’ report on the French Paradox and the potential health benefits of wine. Along this decade and following the “Merlot wine craze”, Merlot saw an upswing of popularity and enjoyed incredible market success in the US – with the grape plantings of over 20,640 hectares in 2004 -stemmed from its softer, fruity profile that made it more approachable to some wine drinkers.

However, due to its fast rise, many producers were growing the grapes in subpar conditions and over-irrigating the vines to meet market demands. Rushed production led to the creation of cheap, low-quality wine that began to tarnish the wine’s reputation, and since 2004 Merlot had its downfall. A study published in Wine and Vines magazine in 2009 indicated that the 2004 movie Sideways, where the lead character is a Pinot Noir fan who expresses his disdain of Merlot, caused a decline in Merlot sales in the US – and an even larger spike of interest in Pinot Noir. By 2010, plantings of CA Merlot had dropped to 18,924 hectares (-8.3%). After that decline, however, the winemakers who continued to grow Merlot renewed their commitment to producing top quality wines. This revival did not go unnoticed, and public opinion about Merlot started to shift, leading to a rebound in plantings.

While Merlot is grown throughout the state, it is particularly prominent in Napa Valley, Monterey, and Sonoma County. In Napa, thanks to the high levels of sunshine and heat, you can expect full-bodied, smooth, velvety styles of Merlot with buckets of fruit flavor – expect ripe blackberry, plum and black cherry notes, and in some versions, whilst bold and rich, can also have a slightly minty note, keeping it fresh and exciting. The Napa Valley is California’s first recognized AVA since 1981 and the 2nd in the US. Within the Napa Valley AVA exist 17 nested AVAs – each with its own unique geographic, geological, climatic and historical characteristics that influence the grapes grown there, including Yountville, where the Stephanie Merlot -one of the wines to be tasted – comes from. 

CHILE. Chile is another perfect homeland for Merlot, cultivating around 4% of the world’s total plantings in 2016. Covering around 8.5% of Chile’ bearing area in 2021 (10,819 ha. out of 129,000 ha.), Merlot is the 3rd most planted wine grape after Cabs (29%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11%). It thrives in the Apalta region of Colchagua Province. It is also grown in significant quantities in Curicó, and the Maipo Valley. Chilean Merlot wines vary from easy-drinking and fruity bottlings of the north part of the Central Valley to more structured and serious examples from Colchagua Valley, Maule Valley, and Maipo. 

A fun fact on the grape’s history in Chile is that, in the 1800’s, cuttings thought to be Merlot were brought over from Bordeaux and planted in Chilean vineyards. At the beginning of the 1990s the nature of the Chilean Merlot grapes was questioned because the wines they were producing were less aromatic than expected with a boost of extra complexity’. In 1994, a grape researcher – ampelographer – named Jean Michel Boursiquot realized that much of what had been grown as Merlot was actually Carménère, an old French variety that had gone largely extinct in France due to its poor resistance to Phylloxera. So, until the early 1990s, the Chilean wine industry mistakenly sold a large quantity of wine made from the Carménère grape as Merlot. While the vines, leaves, and grapes look very similar, both grapes produce wines with distinct characteristics: Carménère being more strongly flavored with green pepper notes and Merlot having softer fruit with chocolate notes.

Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Château Haut Cardinal, Saint-Émilion – AOC, Grand Cru Classé, 2018 

The producer: Château Haut Cardinal is owned by Jean-Marie Carrille, with his son Philippe, who owns Château Poupille in Côtes de Castillon, serving as the winemaker. The estate features a small 1.51-hectare vineyard situated on the highest plateau (north-facing) of Saint-Emilion. The terroir, described as “Argilo-calcaire avec roches mères affleurantes,” is a renowned clay-limestone soil known for producing refined wines. The vineyard features 70-year-old vines and is organically certified, with the entire vineyard planted with Merlot. The annual production is approximately 9,000 bottles.

Better control of yields and careful grape selection are the priorities for this Château. This is why they practice grassing on these plots, and the grapes are sorted at several stages of their development. Grassing is a soil management technique that involves using grass or other vegetative cover to help control erosion and manage soil moisture around the vines, rather than as an ingredient in the wine itself. 

In July, during the green harvest and at harvest time, grapes are sorted manually in two passes on the sorting table. Green harvesting, also known as crop thinning or vendange verte, is a viticultural practice in which unripe grape bunches are removed from the vine before the main harvest. This technique is employed to reduce yield, improve the quality of the remaining grapes, and achieve better ripeness and concentration in the final wine.

The wine: 

Vintage: 2018         Grape Variety: Merlot 100% 

Region: Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

Appellation: Saint-Émilion – AOC, Grand Cru Classé.

Vinification and ageing: Manual harvesting, concrete tanks, 70% new oak barrels for aging. 

Alcohol: 14% ABV.     Annual production: appx. 9,000 bottles.

Structure: Firm tannins and good acidity, requiring time to soften.

Tasting profile: The 2018 Château Haut Cardinal, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé is described as a classic Saint-Émilion red, emphasizing red fruit flavors and a smooth texture. It is characterized by balance and elegance, with a full-bodied profile. The wine likely displays notes of plum and black cherry, possibly complemented by chocolate, vanilla, and spice hints. The vintage is renowned for its rich, concentrated, and velvety wines, characterized by ripe fruit and tannins.

Wine #2. Merelo Coastal Slopes Single Vineyard Merlot, 2021

The producer: Located in the the Coastal Range foothills of the Colchagua Valley, the vineyard is surrounded by a unique natural setting, where a flourishing potent winemaking tradition, Chilean heritage, and gastronomy coexist. This single-vineyard Merlot was cultivated and produced by winemaker Marcelo Parra, who has nearly three decades of experience developing Merlot in the region. In the 1990s, driven by his passion for Merlot, Marcelo saw the potential to cultivate this grape variety in the Colchagua Valley and patiently waited for the vines to mature. The wine’s name “Merelo,” is a blend of his name and his favorite grape, Merlot – it is also his nickname. 

This wine exemplifies the varietal, featuring a soft yet bold Merlot profile, grown on the coastal slopes of the Valley that provide a unique terroir for winemaking, characterized by well-drained granitic soils, cooler temperatures, and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions, influenced by the proximity to the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains, help produce high-quality red wines with excellent color, freshness, and aging potential, especially Merlot, Carménère, and Cabs. The well-drained granitic soils on the slopes are perfect for grapevines, encouraging them to grow deeper roots and produce smaller, more concentrated berries with strong flavors. And the grapes being sourced from a single vineyard indicates a focus on expressing the unique characteristics of the vineyard’s terroir.

The wine: 

Vintage: 2021          Grape Variety: Merlot 100% 

Appellation: Colchagua Valley – DO

Region: Colchagua Valley, Chile     Alcohol: 13.5% ABV:

Structure: This Chilean Merlot is elegant and fruity, complemented by earthy notes. It is full-bodied and refined, with medium-minus acidity, and exhibits some traits characteristic of Old World Syrah.

Tasting profile: Described as full-bodied with chewy tannins, this Merlot has lower acidity and smoother tannins compared to Cabs. The nose offers an enticing aroma of black fruits, barnyard notes, vegetables, herbs, and dark chocolates. On the palate, the wine is dry, revealing flavors of black plums, cooked cherries, black currants, oak, dark chocolate, light vegetables, earth, subtle bitter herbs, and peppercorn. The initial taste is relatively subdued, featuring lighter tannins and acidity than prominent fruit notes. The fruit showcases an almost-ripe mix of various black berries. A vegetable element also appears, and the acids quickly and gently tickle your cheeks, with a hint of softer fruit emerging. As expected from the palate notes, the finish is nicely long and clean, with fine-grained tannins and tangy raspberries.

Opening bottle suggestions: Needs 20 minutes of airtime to open up properly – it becomes earthier as it opens. Poured at room temperature and swirled vigorously, shows shy, almost-ripe-but-not-quite blackberries. Will pair nicely with game meats and aged cheeses.

Wine #3. Château La Pointe, Pomerol- AOC, 2019

The producer: The “Cocks & Féret” Bordeaux wine guide remains a reference today. The 1868 edition listed Château La Pointe with notable estates like Beauregard and Trotanoy. La Pointe was among the 1st in Pomerol with a “Château” name, thanks to its Directoire-style mansion. This status helped position it as a top estate. Records show awards from 1882 and 1883, including a silver medal at Bordeaux and at Amsterdam’s Universal Exhibition.

Pomerol, with just 813 hectares – less than 1% of Bordeaux’s vineyards – produces rare, confidential wines. The average estate is only 5 hectares, in a complex, varied terrain where plots intertwine. Its proximity to Libourne’s port facilitated Atlantic access, vital for exports primarily to England, Northern Europe, and the world. Merlot, the emblematic grape, is complemented by diverse soils supporting great Cabernet Francs.

Château La Pointe, with its 23 hectares of vines in a single block, can produce 120,000 bottles annually and ranks among the five most important properties in Pomerol, one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious appellations, along with Saint-Emilion, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Saint-Estèphe. The name “La Pointe” comes from the vineyard’s unique geometry, featuring a large, pointed triangular vine plot at the estate’s entrance. The new cellars of Château La Pointe, completed in 2009, were designed as environmentally friendly. They also include a drainage system and an eco-friendly vat room, allowing for parcel-by-parcel vinification.

Château La Pointe’s vineyard in Pomerol is on sloped terrain with three main soil types: gravel and pebble on the Isle River terrace; the highly regarded clay gravel soil; and a sandy layer over clay or gravel, improved with drainage to control water, yields, and promote ripeness.

The wine: 

Vintage: 2019     Grape Variety: Merlot 76% – Cabernet Franc 24%

Region/Appellation: Bordeaux, Pomerol – AOC, France

Vinification and ageing: vinification takes place in traditional, 80-hectoliter stainless tanks. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels for 50% of the harvest. The remaining 50% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in tanks. The wines are then aged in 100% new, French oak barrel for an average of 12 months.

Alcohol: 14.5% ABV

Production: 64,000 bottles

Tasting profile: The wine exhibits a bright crimson color with pure red fruit aromas, enveloped in violet notes upon swirling. The juicy, energetic palate has smooth tannins for a velvety feel, complemented by discreet, integrated oak. It exudes freshness and elegance, reflecting the vine grower’s effort and careful vinification—truly a vintage revelation. The 2019 vintage is an exceptional one. To be enjoyed 6 years from now and up to 20 years old or more. 

Wine #4: Stephanie Merlot, Napa Valley – AVA, 2018

The producer: Hestan Vineyards is a picturesque estate located on the remote eastern slopes of Napa Valley. Named after owners Helen and Stanley Cheng, whose passion for fine wines and admiration for Napa Valley’s beauty inspired them to purchase the property—a former cattle ranch—in 1996. They quickly started planting grapes and gradually expanded small blocks to optimize the site’s diverse exposures and well-drained soils. Demonstrating their commitment to land stewardship, both the vineyard and gardens are managed sustainably and run entirely on solar power. Mr. Cheng serves as CEO of the Meyer Corporation, the world’s 2nd-largest cookware manufacturer, known for brands like Circulon, KitchenAid, and Faberware.

The Hestan Vineyard covers 127 acres, including 52 acres (21 hectares) of vine-covered land with vineyard’s vines that have an average of 8 years and benefits from a distinctive combination of soils and growing conditions. They thrive on slopes with silt and rocky soils, producing low-yield grapes like Merlot, Cabs, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.

The terroir of Hestan Vineyards on the eastern slopes of Napa Valley features diverse soils, including rocky, silt, alluvial, marine sediments, and volcanic deposits, especially on the eastern slopes. These soils, along with a microclimate moderate, with cool marine influence which means it is constantly experiencing fog and wind and a noticeable diurnal temperature fluctuation, create a unique terroir that influences wine character and complexity. Well-drained soils benefit grape growing by preventing excess water and promoting healthy vines. The Stephanie wines — named for the owner’s only daughter — are made from all five of the classic red Bordeaux grapes. 

The wine: 

Vintage: 2018

Grape Variety: 76% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot

Region: Napa Valley, California, USA 

Appellation: Napa Valley -AVA, Yountville (nested AVA)

Vinification and aging: 27 Months in new French Oak 

Alcohol: 14.5% ABV             Production: 5,500 bottles

Tasting profile: On the nose, a complex blend of red currants, dried sage, and red licorice. The palate offers cassis, hints of blueberry, and baking spices. This wine has concentrated fruit flavors and is considered medium to full-bodied, with fine tannins. It boasts a robust balanced structure of vibrant acidity and well-integrated velvety tannins resulting in a medium to long finish that includes fruit and spice. Decant and enjoy with a rack of lamb. 

 

References

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merlot

https://winefolly.com/grapes/merlot/

https://www.firstleaf.com/wine-school/article/the-ultimate-guide-to-merlot?srsltid=AfmBOorsol-RLb0QGJHFUPtME4hzhoRIYc12kvsk6-o0ZmykS6fQ3Nd8

https://www.oiv.int/sites/default/files/2024-04/OIV_STATE_OF_THE_WORLD_VINE

https://winebusinessanalytics.com/sections/printout_article.cfm?content=61265&article=feature#:~:text=HIGHLIGHTS,sales%20to%20the%20same%20extent.

https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/2013/11/november-7-international-merlot-day-drinking-celebrate/

Recommended Videos on Merlot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA_mJovIodg

https://napavintners.com/napa_valley/yountville-ava/; 

https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/haut+cardinal+st+emilion+grand+cru+bordeaux+france/2018

https://www.leirovins.be/nl/webshop/13157/frankrijk/bordeaux-saint-emilion/chateau-haut-cardinal-saint-emilion-grand-cru

https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/merlot/old-merelo-merlot-single-vineyard/p/235693750

https://www.vivino.com/CA/en/cl-bodegas-centenarias-merelo-coastal-slopes-single-vineyard-merlot/

https://www.winetourism.com/wine-appellation/colchagua-valley/

https://www.winesofchile.org/

http://www.chateaulapointe.com/en/

ANG 1er vin 2019 – Château La Pointe

https://www.hestanvineyards.com/store/product/2018-stephanie-merlot/

https://www.totalwine.com/wine/red-wine/merlot/stephanie-merlot-napa/p/117234750 

CV Members Rating (after the tasting)

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Tasting No 278 – June 24, 2025 – Highlights from Central Europe: wines from Austria and Hungary

Posted on June 23, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 278 – June 24, 2025

Highlights from Central Europe: wines from Austria and Hungary

 

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Wachau, DAC Austria

 

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore some notable wines produced in two countries in Central Europe: Austria and Hungary.  This is an open tasting.

Presenters:  Claudia and Agilson Perazza

Participants: M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro; J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Estrada; J. García;  R. Gutierrez; A. and C. Perazza; C. Santelices; P. Turina; L. Uechi, G. Vega and C. Falconi (guest).

 

These are the wines

  1. Rudi Pichler ‘Terrassen’ Smaragd Gruner Veltliner, 2023
  2. Disznoko, Tokaji Dry, Furmint, 2023
  3. Erich Sattler Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2021
  4. Paul Achs, Blaufrankisch, Heideboden, 2021
  5. Disznóko ‘1413’ Edes Szamorodni, 2021

 

The Menu

  • Smoked salmon with greens
  • Cheese Raviolis in tomato sauce
  • Veal marsala with vegetables.
  •  Dessert, coffee or tea.

  1. Austria and its Wines

A mountainous, landlocked country in Central Europe, Austria is enjoying a renaissance as a wine-producing nation. It has worked its way free from decades-old controversy caused by a careless few, and has emerged as a role model for modern European wine – a leader in quality and innovation.

Viticulture in Austria dates back to Roman times. Evidence of vineyard cultivation surrounding Carnuntum DAC and the Thermen regions suggests that vines were planted here 2000 years ago. The steep terraces along the Danube River and its tributaries in Wachau and Kamptal were built by monks from monasteries in Bavaria and Salzburg. The vineyards of Vienna have a rich tradition of ‘Heurigen’ (meaning both wine tavern and the wine served inside), where locals can enjoy the proprietor’s homemade wines.

For much of the 20th Century, Austria was associated with sweet, mass-produced wine made of Gruner Veltliner and Muller-Thurgau. Producers are now focusing more on crisp, dry wine styles, some of which age very well.

This move to drier wines partly resulted from the 1985 “anti-freeze scandal”, in which diethylene glycol was found to have been added to some bulk-produced wines to increase levels of sweetness and body, reminiscent of a late-harvest dessert style wine. The scandal led to the collapse of the Austrian wine industry – in terms of both exports and reputation – but stricter wine laws were enacted, and the industry has recovered.

Balancing the traditional with the modern, the Austrian wine industry has retained such classics as sweet Ausbruch and Strohwein, while actively developing modern, consumer-friendly wines such as its signature style: the crisp, white, aromatic Gruner Veltliner.

Geography and climate of wine regions

Located right at the heart of Europe, between the latitudes of 46°N and 48°N, Austria lies parallel with central France and south of Germany. Logically, the climate is slightly warmer than that of Germany, and this is reflected in the wine styles.

Austria’s wine regions can be found primarily in the northeast of the country. Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) is the largest wine region with 24,145 hectares (59,663 acres) of vineyards responsible for approximately half of the total wine output. It is where you’ll find the country’s most popular and important wine varieties including Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Within Lower Austria, the regions of Wachau, Kamptal, and the prestigious Kremstal consistently produce the highest rated wines in the region.

Very little Mediterranean influence makes it over the Alps into Austria, creating a strongly continental climate, with pronounced temperature shifts from day to night and from summer to winter. Numerous varied mesoclimates lie in between the extremes, moderated by large bodies of water such as the Danube River (which flows through the northern regions), and Lake Neusiedl.

Moving south, the climate is a bit warmer where it’s moderated by Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. Just south of Vienna, a warmer pocket of wine regions produces outstanding red wines, including Zwiegelt, Blaufränkisch, and Saint Laurent.

Burgenland region on Austria’s eastern border is the second largest with 12,249 ha (30,267 acres). Vienna is often described as a prominent wine region despite its relatively small vineyard area and wine output, in comparison to other regions, followed by Styria with 4324ha (10,684 acres).

In Steiermark (Styria), it is cooler, and there are some incredible examples of Sauvignon Blanc, a spicy rosé called Schilcher, and Muskateller (an aromatic but dry Muscat Blanc wine).

Wine classifications: Austrian wine laws are strongly influenced by those of neighboring Germany. The country’s wine quality classification system is based on must weight (sugar content) of the grapes, measured on the Klosterneuburger Mostwaage scale (KMW). There are three basic quality levels: Tafelwein, Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

Austria wines also follow the ‘Districtus Austriae Controllatus’ (DAC) appellation system, introduced in 2003. In a similar way to France’s AOP classification, the DAC wine laws impose certain constraints covering permitted grape varieties, alcohol levels and oak maturation regimes. The goal of these is to ensure that wines bearing a DAC title represent an authentic example of the classic regional style. As of 2020, Austria had sixteen DAC titles. Here are some of the titles or appellations are relevant to today’s tasting:

Wachau – is a small but important wine district on the Danube River in northern Austria. One of Austria’s most famous and respected wine regions, Wachau is known for its full-bodied, pepper-tinged Grüner Veltliner and rich, steely Riesling. Wachau has a unique set of wine designations for its white wines – Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd. This three-tier classification was developed by the region’s producers as a way of communicating the style of their wines, beyond region and grape variety.

Steinfeder wines are the lightest: fresh and tangy, with a maximum of 11.5 percent ABV;

Federspiel wines are the middleweight category (11.5–12.5 percent ABV), with the racy, precise, elegance of a hunting falcon; and

Smaragd wines are the richest and fullest-bodied, with a minimum of 12 percent ABV.

Neusiedlersee – Burgenland’s Lake Neusiedl (Neusiedlersee) is one of the viticultural focus points of the region. It stores summer heat from the Pannonian Plain, an expansive, warm area covering much of Hungary and eastern Austria, effectively lengthening the ripening season into autumn. Best-known for its sweet white wines, the Neusiedlersee region is a DAC designation that is also forging a reputation for red wines made entirely from Zweigelt – the only other wine style covered by the DAC title (others are labeled “Burgenland”).

Additionally, other non-DAC Neusiedlersee wines include “Heideboden” – a regional name for an area extending east of Lake Neusiedl. The soils are sandy-calcareous and permeable, which is ideal for growing grapevines. Wines from Heideboden are often full-bodied and fruity.

Key Grape varieties

Officially, 35 grape varieties are permitted for use in Austrian quality wine, of which almost two-thirds are white-wine varieties.

Gruner Veltliner: is by far the most important white grape, followed by Riesling. Other varieties important to Austrian white wine include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc (known here by its German name Weissburgunder).

Almost half of Austria’s vineyards are planted with Gruner Veltliner, which is known as the nation’s signature grape variety, occupying 14,376 hectares (35,523 acres) of the variety is found planted primarily in the Niederösterreich and Burgenland regions.

‘Herbaceous and zesty’ – expect racy acidity with an herbaceous tingle of pepper. Grüner Veltliner is often likened to Sauvignon Blanc because of its green flavors of white pepper and green bean. Most people who start with an affordable Grüner Veltliner will taste this, but what’s interesting is what happens when you spend a little more. The higher-quality Reserve, Smaragd, or Steiermark denominations are much richer, almost like an oaked Chardonnay from Burgundy.

With its green herbaceous notes, Grüner Veltliner makes a perfect accompaniment with sushi. However, it will work wonders with cilantro-driven Mexican dishes as well.

Austria’s red wines are made primarily from Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Saint-Laurent and Pinot Noir (aka Blauburgunder).

Blaufränkisch (aka Lemberger and Kékfrankos) is a black-skinned wine grape grown widely in Austria and Hungary, and to a lesser extent in neighboring Germany, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Bulgaria and Croatia. In Austria, Blaufränkisch is the second most popular red wine variety, behind Zweigelt. It is grown in almost every wine region, to some extent, but its stronghold is in Burgenland, where approximately 2,632 hectares (6,504 acres) were cultivated in 2015.

Blaufränkisch is Austria’s champion age-worthy red wine with a vein of acidity and big tannins. They’re often a little harsh when young, but Blaufränkisch wines become wonderfully subtle and lush with age. Expect blackberry, tart cherry, and an elegant citrus-like spice in Blaufränkisch wines along with a pronounced burst of tannins in the mid-palate. Blaufränkisch is rich with moderate tannin and should be paired with rich, grilled foods. Try it with your next BBQ tenderloin or smoked tofu burger.

Zweigelt – While native to Austria, Zweigelt is actually a fairly recent cross bred by Dr. Zweigelt in 1922. He crossed two native varieties, Blaufränkisch, for its peppery bite, with St. Laurent, chosen for its elegance. Zweigelt is the most-planted red wine grape variety, occupying 6311ha (15,594 acres).

It is a lighter red wine, similar to Grenache or Gamay, that is rarely oaked. Since it’s a cool climate red, the finish will often have a slightly bitter note. Even though most Zweigelt is on the affordable side, there are a few age-worthy examples that give off rich cherry flavors with a touch of oak.

A ‘cherry bomb’: the best advice to someone who wants to try Zweigelt is to give it about an hour to decant. A Zweigelt that may initially have a bitter or tart finish suddenly becomes deeper and fruitier, exhibiting black cherry and raspberry notes.

Zweigelt has moderate acidity and pairs with Austria’s traditional Spätzle and Schnitzel. However, try chicken tenders and tater tots for a more American version.

St. Laurent (or Sankt Laurient), it is worth mentioning, even though accounts for only 2% of Austria’s vineyards, this wine grape has a surprising similarity in flavor to Pinot Noir.  Some DNA profiling suggests that it is even a direct offspring of Pinot Noir, but this finding remains unsubstantiated, and debate continues on whether there is a relationship.

“Raspberry and baking spice”- Sankt Laurent wines tend to be dark purple in color, structured yet silky with a characteristic dark-cherry. Blackberries, smoke and spice are also commonly exhibited. The wines are often matured in oak and show good aging ability. Although the demand for St. Laurent has increased, making it a bit more expensive and harder to find, it offers a great alternative to Pinot Noir. As such, St. Laurent loves delicately flavored foods with an element of richness. Pairing examples include ricotta-stuffed tortellini with a St. Laurent-based Beurre-Rouge. Food pairings for St. Laurent wines include Rheinischer Sauerbraten (baked pickled beef marinated with juniper berries, cloves and nutmeg); blackened pork with apple sauce; barbecued beef ribs with caramelized onions.

 

  1. Hungary – the best-kept secret of the old wine world

Hungary, in central Europe, has gained its reputation in the wine world through just a couple of wine styles, but for centuries it has been a wine-producing nation of considerable diversity.

“Ever-associated in the minds of enophiles with the sumptuous sweet white wines of Tokaji, Hungary boasts a proud, longstanding – and diverse – wine heritage”.

In addition to the sweet wines of Tokaj and the deep Bull’s Blood of Eger, the Hungarian wine portfolio includes dry whites from the shores of Lake Balaton, Somló and Neszmély, and finer reds from various regions, notably Villány, Sopron and Szekszard.

Hungarian wine culture stretches back to Roman times and has survived numerous political, religious and economic challenges, including Islamic rule during the 16th Century (when alcohol was prohibited) and the Phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s.

Geography and terroir

The country is located between the 46th and 49th parallel, which is actually the same latitude range as many of France’s top wine regions from Northern Rhône to Champagne. Hungary’s rolling hills are rich in volcanic soils and limestone–idyllic soil types for fine winemaking.

The modern Hungarian wine regions are distributed around the country. The country has 22 official wine districts within 6 wine regions, each of which have their own particular blend of culture, history, terroir and wine style. The wine district is what is usually indicated on the wine bottle and is the perfect delimitation of the wine’s place of origin for consumers.

The eastern side of Hungary is wrapped by the Carpathian Mountains, which have a considerable impact on the local climate, protecting the land from the cold winds that would otherwise blow in from across Poland and western Ukraine. The generally continental climate is also moderated by lakes Balaton and Neusiedl, allowing for a longer, more temperate growing season.

The largest wine region is the Danube wine region, located between the Danube and the Tisza rivers. The wine districts around the “Hungarian Sea” comprise the Balaton wine region. The wine districts in the Northern Central Mountains form the Upper Hungary wine region. Travelling from Sopron to Budapest, you pass through the Upper Pannon wine region, while the southernmost wine districts in Transdanubia make up the Pannon wine region.

The top wine districts and grape varieties in Hungary

The Tokaj region is the gold standard of the Hungarian wine regions. It is Hungary’s most famous wine region, the oldest classified wine region in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to the world’s first noble rot wine–the sweet golden Tokaji Aszú, and more recently the dry Furmint.

The Tokaj wine district has such special historical traditions and natural endowments that it is an independent wine region in its own right. The region and its wine are held in such esteem in Hungary that the national anthem thanks God for it: “Tokaj szolovesszein nektárt csepegtettél” (into the vineyards of Tokaj you dripped sweet nectar).

The region is located in the northeast of Hungary, near the border with Slovakia. Comprising roughly 30 small towns and villages scattered along rolling hills and nestled between the rivers Tisza and Bodrog. The rivers create a special microclimate in the area with high levels of moisture in the air, offset by wind and abundant sunshine. This creates optimal conditions for botrytized wines. The region sits on a range of clay-dominant soils of red, yellow, brown, and white clay, along with loess, strewn atop volcanic rock subsoil that’s rich in iron and lime.

Tokaj had a major wine economy in the 1700’s, when Poland and Russia were ravaging fans of the sweet Tokaji Aszú. Peter the Great was such an Aszú fanatic that he stationed a permanent military barrack in Tokaj to ensure there would be no interruption to his constant stream of liquid gold to the royal palace in St. Petersburg.

Furmint is the dominant white grape variety in the Tokaj region, where it occupies almost two-thirds of total vineyard area. The varietal has already proven itself as one of the great white varieties of the world, with an impressive minerality and structure. Furmint dominates the Tokaji blend and is renowned for its naturally high acidity, high sugar levels and spicy aromatic profile. The first two of these characteristics are responsible for the wine’s phenomenal ageing potential, while the latter provides a flavor distinct from any other sweet wine. When blended with Harslevelu and Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, Furmint can produce some of the most complex and longest-living wines in the world.

As a varietal Furmint is remarkably versatile, too – depending on where it was made and who was at the helm, it can taste like a bright, crisp Grüner, a floral, off-dry Riesling, or a supple full-bodied Chardonnay. A dynamic acidity slices through every Furmint, regardless of style, and flavors of apples and wet tree bark are persistent.

The sweet Tokaji Aszú wine is made from individually picked botrytized grapes that are then mashed and soaked in dry wine or must. The resulting wine, after aging, is golden, extremely sweet (120-180 grams per liter) and has the potential to age indefinitely (when properly stored). To receive the Tokaji denotation, a wine can only contain the six native varieties of Furmint, Hárslevelü , Kabar, Kövérszölö, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály.

An Aszú is characterized by its amount of sugar, which is designated by its “Puttonyos.” This original measure of sugar was measured by the number of baskets of noble rot grapes or “puttonyos” that were added to a barrel of wine; the more that were added, the sweeter the wine. Originally there were 6 different levels, but today there are only 2 allowed levels. More specifically, three puttonyos indicates 25g/l – the lowest sugar content and thus the least sweet of the Aszú wine styles. Each additional puttonyo thereafter indicates an increase of 5g/l of residual sugar. Eszencia is the very sweetest Aszú style. With around 800 g/l of residual sugar, it is so sweet, and so low in alcohol (about 5 percent ABV) that it hardly qualifies as wine at all. It is the undiluted, barely fermented juice of botrytized berries. Unsurprisingly, Eszencia is one of the rarest and most expensive wines on earth.

The Eger region is in the north, about 86 miles northeast of Budapest. Grapes grow natively on Eger’s rolling terrain; in fact, scientists actually identified a 30 million-year-old wine grape fossil in Eger, among the modern-day vineyards.

Top Wines are native blends Egri Bikavér (red blend), and Egri Csillag or “Star of Eger” (white blend). Eger is best known for its Egri Bikavér wine, popularly known as ‘Bull’s Blood’. Several grapes go into the robust Bikavér blend ,, with Kadarka and Kékfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch) typically the majority components. Good-quality Bikaver is deep, purple-crimson in color, with softish tannins a middleweight body and plummy, spicy aromatics. Although Tokaji remains unrivaled as Hungary’s most famous wine overall, ‘Bull’s Blood’ is surely the country’s most famous red.

 

  1. Information about the Wines

Wine #1. Rudi Pichler ‘Terrassen’ Smaragd Gruner Veltliner, 2023

The producer: at Weingut Rudi Pichler, the Pichler family has been growing vines in Wösendorf since 1731. The estate consists of 15 hectares of vineyards spread between Wösendorf, Joching, and Weisenkirchen, where south-facing terraces look down at the Danube River. Currently vineyards produce 65% Grüner Veltliner, 30% Riesling and some Pinot Blanc and Red Veltliner. Rudi Pichler is among the elite growers of the Wachau, producing wines of precision, power, and longevity. The producer belongs to the prestigious Vinea Wachau and vinifies under the strict parameters of their codex.

The wine:

Grape: 100% Grüner Veltliner

Viticulture: 1800 vines/acre; 22-40 years old; yield 1.2-2.16 tons/acre.

Vinification: fermented in stainless steel talks for 14 days at 64-72oF

Aging: 5 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling plus 1 month in the bottle.

Alcohol: 13.5% vol.

Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L

Tasting notes: Soil characteristics of many small, excellent sites come together so nicely in this wine: fine minerality, subtle fruit flavors, tobacco spices and peppery elegance. Drinking window: 2025-2036

“The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen is a blend of the five to seven top sites in the Wachau region, known for its high-quality vineyards. Yeast and white miso come imbued with citrus and russet pear peel on the nose. The palate brings on the full savoriness of that yeasty core on a surprisingly light-footed body. This is all texture and fluidity, with deep notions of white miso, juicy russet pear flesh and peel and a salty, peppery savor. The finish tapers back to lemon and has a lasting echo of pepper. The 2023 is slender for a Smaragd, yet really concentrated. (Bone-dry)”. (Vinous media).

Wine #2. Disznókő, Tokaji Dry Furmint, 2023

The producer: The Disznóko estate was classified as a first growth property at the time of the initial classification in 1772 and remains so today. The estate consists of a single tract of land that spread over 250 acres at the southwest entrance of the Tokaji region. Four of the approved noble grape varieties are planted in this single vineyard – Furmint, Harslevelu, Zeta and Sagamuskotal. The estate makes a range of wines, from five and six ‘puttonyos’ wines and an Aszú Eszencia, to a floral, dry wine made of Furmint. https://www.disznoko.hu/

The wine:

Grapes: 100% Furmint

Viticulture: Manual harvest of fully ripened, healthy bunches in small boxes of 20 kg (44 lbs) between the 13th and 22nd of September. Many different plots of the Disznókő vineyard were harvested and vinified separately.

Vinification: The fruits of the different plots were vinified separately. The grapes were full bunch pressed (directly without destemming), allowed to settle for a night and then fermented in stainless steel vats at a temperature controlled between 16-18°C. No malolactic fermentation.

Aging: The different lots were blended in November and the wine was aged on its fine lees in stainless steel vats for 4 months. Bottled in March 2024 in 750 ml Tokaji bottle with glass stoppers.

Alcohol:  12.78% vol.

Tasting Profile: Light straw yellow robe with green reflex. Fresh, fruity nose with almond, white peach, stone fruits, pear aromas together with some floral and vegetal hints like hay. On the palate, it reveals a crisp acidity with saline notes. This wine is medium bodied, offering a pleasant texture, with a good mineral finish. Serve this wine at 10°C. Drink young to enjoy the full expression of its fresh fruit and minerality.

“Very attractive nose with notes of dried lemons, orange blossoms, dried herbs, and crushed stones. Medium-bodied, textural and crisp on a lively, energetic palate. I like the tension and crunchiness. Refreshing, citrusy finish.”

Food pairings: Disznókő Tokaji Dry Furmint 2023 is an exceedingly drinkable wine perfect for so many occasions; quenching your thirst on a hot summer’s day, the perfect companion to light meals, great for an evening with friends around the barbecue. Excellent as an aperitif, with fish and light sauces (e.g. herring) or seafood (superb with oysters and caviar), as well as poultry, game birds and salads.

Wine #3: Paul Achs, Blaufrankisch, Heideboden, 2021

The producer: Weingut Paul Achs is in Gols is located 60 km southeast of Vienna, near the Hungarian border in the Northern Burgenland. The vineyards are located in and around Gols. 25 hectares, spread over 40 plots, each with individual potential. This wide range gives us a variety of soils and small climates – ideal basics to create exciting, authentic wines year after year. The entire spectrum of wines includes 14 red, 6 white wines and 2 pomace brandies. Their wines are characterized by considerable shelf life. Even wines from the 90s show ( with good storage conditions ) a convincing fruit depth. But even at a young age, our wines offer drinking pleasure. The red wines are all aged in wooden barrels – from 225 L gripping barrique up to the large, 3,400 liter oak barrel. https://www.paul-achs.at/

The wine:

Grapes: 100 % Baufränkisch

Vineyards: grown on permeable, calcareous gravel and black earth soils of the Heideboden region. These soils lend the wine richness and a warm texture. Some of the grapes also come from cooler hillside vineyards with gravel and volcanic soils, which contribute freshness and elegant fruit.

Vinification: fermented in steel tanks and then aged for 12 months in used barriques.

Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting profile: This Blaufränkisch shows ‘notes of crushed blackberry and plum sauce form the core of this wine, with graphite flowing underneath. The silky palate swathes the sinewy tannins and carries mouthwatering acidity.

“Very youthful, slightly tobacco nose of black berries and cherries with a little laurel. Cool, clear, youthful, tart blackberry fruit, smoky and tobacco notes, a hint of pepper and juniper again, some meaty juice on the palate, toasty traces, fine sandy, youthful tannin, a little Brazil nut in the background, good persistence, some acid bite, good to very good, again cool and tart-juicy finish.”(Wein-plus wine reviews)

Food pairings: the wine’s flavor profile is characterized by fruit and minerality, and it pairs perfectly with dishes such as homemade pâté, game terrines, braised dishes, dark poultry, steak, or grilled meat, as well as semi-hard and hard cheeses.

Wine #4:  Erich Sattler Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2021

The producer: The winery: Weingut Erich Sattler has its vineyards located in the Neusiedlersee wine-growing district in Burgenland, on a unique gravel bank. It was formed over two million years ago from the side arms of the ancient Danube and stretches today over more than 5 km. Our vineyards around the small municipality of Tadten are mainly planted with St. Laurent and Zweigelt vines. Some of the vines are well over forty years old. https://erichsattler.at/

The wine: For Austria, the 2021 vintage has been described as phenomenal.

Grape: 100% Zweigelt

Alcohol: 13% vol.

Residual sugar: 1g/L

Tasting Notes: The 2021 Erich Sattler Zweigelt from Burgenland, Austria, is a red wine made from the Zweigelt grape, which is one of Austria’s most widely planted red grapes. It exhibits bright red fruit flavors such as cherry and raspberry, often complemented by hints of spice and a touch of pepper. The wine is medium-bodied with moderate tannins and refreshing acidity, making it versatile and food-friendly.

“Vibrant bright purple on the pour. Surprisingly light on the palate (my first zweigelt). Moderately tannic. With about an hour of air…a little bitterness on the palate, a lightly savory. Oak is showing. Pepper is coming through a lot more with air (at about 75 minutes now). Much more savory approaching the two hour mark. Dominant note is white pepper. Would likely confuse this with Syrah blind. Also, some vegetal notes building on the nose. A great food wine. Perfect for a summer barbeque.” (Eric Wright at Cellar-tracker).

Wine #5: Disznókő ‘1413’ Tokaji Ēdes Szamorodni, 2021

The producer: (see wine #2). Acclaimed as one of the three most favorable sites of Aszú in Tokaji. Morning autumn mists and warm breezes ensure optimal conditions for noble rot.

The Wine:

100% Furmint

Vinification: For about half of the lots composing the final blend the clusters were destemmed, followed by a short skin contact before pressing. In the case of the other lots, the grapes were full bunch pressed without destemming. 90% of the lots fermented in stainless steel vats and 10% fermented in barrels of two-three wines.

Maturing: aged for 12 months in the traditional underground cellar of Tokaj, in oak barrels of two-three wines, with a capacity of 225 litres. Bottled in September 2023.

Alcohol: 12.4% vol.

Residual sugar: 141 g/L

Tasting notes: Pale to rich gold. When young, you will discover wildflowers, fresh and candied fruits (apricot, citrus, tropical notes) as well as almonds and woody spices. As it ages in the bottle, Disznókö 1413 Tokaji develops notes of honey and dried fruits while the crisp acidity gently softens. This is a wine with finesse and balance. The barrel-ageing gives balance and complexity to the fruit of this deliciously fresh wine, giving it marvelous flexibility for pairing with many dishes.

 

  1. CV Members Rating 

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 14 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Excellent. The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table. In the final results, Erich Sattler Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2021 was the Best Wine, and also the Best Buy.

 

References:

https://winefolly.com/wine-regions/hungary/#winestoexplore

https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/hungarian-wines-for-the-win/

https://www.rudipichler.at/en/our-wines/gruener-veltliner-terrassen-smaragd/

 

About Us    –   Tasting Meeting Synopses  – Annual Tasting Programs  – Membership and Operations – Talks About Wine-Members Corner  –   Club Members   –  Moments Some Club del Vino History in Pictures

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Laughing Matter:

Vinho não faz penalty, so faz falta!

Wine does commit penalties, it just may be missing!

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Tasting No 277 – May 27, 2025 Pinot Noir from around the world

Posted on May 22, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 277 – May 27, 2025

Pinot Noir from around the world

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The objective of this tasting is to explore Pinot Noir wines from different regions of the world.  We will taste Pinot Noirs from France, the United States, New Zealand and Chile.  This is an open tasting.

Presenters:  Yacsire Cutler and Orlando Mason

Participants: TBA

 

These are the wines

  1. Wairau River Pinot Noir, New Zealand, 2022
  2. Antonin Rodet, Pinot Noir ‘Grande Selection’, France, 2023
  3. Schug Carneros Pinot Noir, California, 2022
  4. Leyda Lot 21, Pinot Noir, Chile, 2018

The Menu

  • Roasted beet with goat cheese
  • Raviolis stuffed with mushrooms 
  • Grilled trout with mixed vegetables.
  • Dessert, coffee or tea.

  1. Brief History of Pinot Noir around the world

Pinot Noir is one of the oldest and most celebrated grape varieties in the world, known for producing elegant, complex red wines. It is believed to be over 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest known grape varieties still in use. It likely originated in northeastern France, possibly around Burgundy, and there are records of being cultivated during the first century A.D.  The name “Pinot” comes from the French word “pin” (pine), referencing the grape’s tightly clustered, pinecone-shaped bunches. “Noir” means black, referring to the color of the grape.

The Burgundy region of France is therefore considered the birthplace of Pinot Noir. Monks in the Middle Ages, were crucial in refining the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy, identifying the best vineyard sites. Burgundy’s deep association with the concept of terroir—how soil, climate, and vineyard location affect the wine—was largely shaped by Pinot Noir cultivation.

Pinot Noir has been know as known to be a “temperamental” grape. It prefers cool to moderate climates, heat cam mute its finesse and freshness. It is difficult to cultivate and vinify consistently due to its delicacy and susceptibility to mutation and rot. Because of its thin skin it doesn’t stand up as well to high heat, too much sun, hail or too much rain as hardier, thicker-skinned grapes; in addition, the grapes in the clusters are close together, making them more prone to mildew and rot in very damp conditions. Its prone to millerandage (uneven grape development).  Pinot noir is highly reflective of the soil and climate where it is grown (especially in Burgundy.).

Pinot Noir primary flavors are red fruit – cherry, strawberry, raspberry. It often shows earthy, floral, and herbal tones—such as mushroom, rose petal, forest floor, tea leaves, clove and cinnamon.  Younger Pinot is bright and juicy.  Aged Pinot Noir: Can develop complex flavors like dried fruit, leather, game, and truffle.

Pinot Noir wines are generally light to medium bodied, low to medium tannins with a silky or soft texture, and naturally high acidity with helps it age and pair well with food. Alcohol content is typically moderate (12-14.5%.) Its color is pale to medium ruby or garnet. It is one of the lightest red wines in appearance.

In the 19th–20th centuries Pinot Noir began spreading to other parts of the world. Globally, Pinot Noir is one of the major red grape varieties, but it ranks behind more widely planted and robust varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In total plantation, Pinot Noir is about 1/3 of Cabernet Sauvignon and less than Merlot, Tempranillo and Shiraz.

 Notable Pinot Noir producing countries are:

  • France (especially Burgundy) – benchmark quality, limited volume;
  • USA (especially Oregon, California) – growing in prestige;
  • Germany – surprisingly one of the largest producers (Spätburgunder);
  • New Zealand – notable for vibrant, fruit-driven styles; and
  • Chile – rising production in coastal cool zones.

 

  1. Regions of production

The wines to be tasted come from France (Burgundy), United States (Carneros), New Zealand (Central Oyago), and Chile (Valle Leyda.).

  FRANCE – The real turning point for Pinot Noir came during the Middle Ages, when Cistercian and Benedictine monks in Burgundy began carefully cultivating and documenting vineyards. These monks were meticulous in observing how different vineyard plots—called “climats”—produced different expressions of the same grape. Their efforts laid the foundation for Burgundy’s terroir-based winemaking tradition.  In 1395, Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy famously issued a decree banning the lower-quality Gamay grape from Burgundy in favor of “the noble Pinot”. This marked the first formal attempt to protect and promote Pinot Noir, reinforcing its prestige in the region.  Through the centuries, Burgundy’s reputation grew, especially among royalty, clergy, and nobility. Pinot Noir from top vineyards like Romanée-Conti became legendary. The 18th and 19th centuries saw continued refinement, and the Napoleonic inheritance laws later led to the fragmentation of vineyard ownership—contributing to the complexity of Burgundy’s wine labels today.  In the 20th century, the AOC system was introduced to formalize vineyard classifications. Pinot Noir became almost exclusively linked with red Burgundy wines.

Two things make Pinot Noir from France unique: soil and climate. In terms of the soil, going back around 200 million years, France was part of a large, tropical sea. Over time, the seabed became limestone soils. These soils are behind the trademark zesty minerality of French wines, especially pinot noir. Because France has a cooler climate than other pinot noir wine regions, French pinot noir is delicate and light-bodied. Rather than bold, heavy flavours, you’ll catch the citrusy taste of orange peel and the fruity taste of cherry. You might also notice a smooth and sweet chocolate flavour.

  UNITED STATES – Pinot Noir was first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th century, primarily by European immigrants bringing vine cuttings with them. Initial plantings were scattered and experimental, and the grape didn’t gain immediate traction due to its sensitivity to climate and soil.  In the early 20th century, California saw some of the earliest serious attempts at cultivating Pinot Noir, particularly in areas like the Santa Cruz Mountains and later in Sonoma and Napa. However, it wasn’t until after Prohibition that efforts really picked up again. A major turning point came in the 1960s when planting Pinot Noir began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  By the 1980s and 1990s, both Oregon and cooler parts of California were producing world-class Pinot Noir. The grape became known for its elegance, complexity, and expression of terroir. American Pinot Noirs gained further credibility on the world stage after Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve placed well in international tastings. Pinot Noir is now one of the most prestigious and sought-after varietals in the U.S. Willamette Valley is widely considered one of the top Pinot-producing regions in the world, and California continues to innovate with diverse styles ranging from bold to delicate.  Stylistically, these wines range from types similar to Burgundy’s (leaner, with firmer tannins and earth and mineral accents) to plusher and riper versions with rich dark fruit and spice notes, and styles in between  

Specifically Carneros covers an area of 90 square miles on the southernmost foothills of the Mayacamas and Sonoma mountain ranges. This location sits between America’s two most famous wine-producing regions – the eastern half in Napa, the western half in Sonoma. In the 1880’s the Stanly Ranch in Carneros, with over 300 acres, was one of the largest vineyards in California and had significant Pinot Noir plantings..  The topography here – and the cool, windy mesoclimate it creates – is intimately connected with the style of wine produced here. This gives Carneros a much cooler, wetter climate than that found further north in the sheltered valleys. Carneros Pinot Noir has traditionally been lighter and tighter than those from other Californian regions, with notes of berries and herbs, rather than anything deeper and more opulent.

   NEW ZEALAND – The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is relatively young, but it’s a story of rapid rise and global acclaim. In just a few decades, New Zealand has established itself as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the Southern Hemisphere, known for purity, elegance, and vibrant fruit.  The earliest vine plantings in New Zealand go back to the 1800s, brought by European settlers, but it didn’t catch on due to lack of wine infrastructure, limited viticultural knowledge, and inappropriate vineyard sites. It is only in the 1970s, that the modern New Zealand wine industry began to take shape, particularly in regions like Martinborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago, where the first producer recognized that the cool, dry climate and free-draining soils mirrored conditions in Burgundy The current trends are: greater focus on single-vineyard bottlings and sustainable practices; use of native yeasts, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal intervention; and increasing comparisons to Burgundy, especially from Martinborough and Central Otago.

New Zealand Pinot Noirs are noted for bright cherry and berry fruit, silky tannins, balanced acidity and transparency of terroir. In particular Central Otago, with its high-altitude vineyards, continental climate, and dramatic temperature swings, is considered ideal for Pinot Noir wines that are characterized as bold, structured and fruit forward.

  CHILE –  Pinot Noir likely arrived in Chile in the 19th century, brought by European settlers. However, it was not widely planted or seriously cultivated mainly because Chile’s central wine regions were too warm for Pinot to thrive. In the 1990s, Chilean winemakers began exploring coastal regions, realizing the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and Humboldt Current could support delicate grapes like Pinot Noir. Regions like Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley (especially Leyda), Limarí Valley, Bio-Bío and Itata in the south began to produce higher-quality, cooler-climate Pinot Noir.  Winemakers started to use better clones of Pinot Noir (especially Dijon clones from Burgundy); implement lower yields and more precise vineyard management; and experiment with oak aging, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention techniques.

The Leyda Valley region enjoys the effects of the cold Humboldt Current of the Pacific Ocean. The first vignerons appeared in Leyda in the late 1990s, attracted by a terroir that was almost perfect for the production of premium grapes, save for the lack of an abundant source of water for irrigation. A significant investment by a wine-producing family in the area saw the construction of a pipeline five miles (8km) long to channel water from the Maipo River in the south.The close proximity to the coast is what is driving growers to Leyda. Cold ocean breezes and morning fog moderate the overall temperatures, and the valley is therefore significantly cooler than its low latitude might suggest. These cool temperatures are complemented by warm sunshine during the long growing season, letting grapes ripen fully and develop complexity while still retaining acidity.  Leyda Valley’s soils are largely clay and loam over a granite base with moderate drainage. These low-fertility soils are good for the production of premium grapes because they make the vines struggle for survival. This results in vines that put all their energy into producing small, concentrated grapes rather than leafy foliage. Wines produced from these grapes tend to be structured and complex and Leyda Pinot Noir wines style is bright red fruit, floral, and elegant.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Wairau River Pinot Noir, New Zealand, 2022

The producer: Wairau River Wines is a family-owned winery located in the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s South Island. Established in 1978 by Phil and Chris Rose, the winery has grown to become one of Marlborough’s most respected producers, known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

The wine

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 13%

Tasting Profile:

Aromas: Notes of ripe cherry, pomegranate, and red berry, complemented by hints of white pepper, anise, and a subtle earthy undertone.

Palate: Bright and fresh with concentrated flavors of raspberry and red cherry. The wine exhibits a soft, generous mouthfeel, with delicate wild berry nuances and a touch of savory complexity. Fine, elegant tannins provide structure and depth, leading to a lingering finish. 

Oak Influence: Aged for nine months in French barriques, imparting subtle toasty oak characteristics that enhance the wine’s complexity without overpowering the fruit profile. 

The 2022 Wairau River Pinot Noir from Marlborough, New Zealand, is a vibrant and expressive red wine that showcases the distinctive characteristics of the region’s cool-climate terroir.

Wine #2. Antonin Rodet, Pinot Noir ‘Grande Selection’, France, 2023

The producer: Antonin Rodet is a historic wine producer and négociant based in Mercurey, in the Côte Chalonnaise region of Burgundy, France. Founded in 1875 by Antoine Rodet, the house has been instrumental in promoting the wines of southern Burgundy, particularly those from Mercurey.

The wine

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir.

Vinification: The mechanically harvested grapes went through a pre-fermentary maceration period giving brighter color and fresh fruity aromas to the wine. After that 4-days period, the plots were vinified separately with a long fermentation of at least 3 weeks. The tank fermentation process ended with a post-fermentary maceration of 7 days at hot temperature to refine the tannins. The wine was then aged for 4 months on fine lees, under wood for a quarter to bring a subtle structure and in stainless steel tanks to keep the fruit and freshness of the grape.

Tasting Profile:

Appearance: Bright garnet red.

Aromas: Delicate notes of cherry and coffee, complemented by subtle toasted nuances.

Palate: Fruity and appealing, with flavors of chocolate and a hint of menthol. The wine is medium-bodied, featuring silky tannins and a long finish with assorted fruit flavors and a fine touch of oak. 

Accolades:

  • Silver Medal: Global Pinot Noir Masters, March 2024.
  • Bronze Medal: International Wine & Spirit Competition, May 2024.
  • Bronze Medal: International Wine Challenge, May 2024.

Wine #3: Schug Carneros Pinot Noir, California, 2022

The producer: Schug Carneros Estate Winery is a family-owned winery situated in the Carneros regiom of Sonoma County, California. Founded in 1980 by German-born winemaker Walter Schug, the estate is renowned for its European-style Pinot  Noir and Chardonnay wines. 

The wine

Grapes: 100 % Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 14%

The classic Carneros region Pinot Noir offers a wide range of flavors and aromas, intyhe tradition of the finest red Burgundies of France. “Clonal diversity” is achieved by carefully blending several vineyard lots, each retaining its own unique clonal signature in the blend.

Tasting profile:

The result is a complex wine with a rich bouquet of cherries, berries and hints of spicy new oak. It has flavors reminiscent of black cherry, currant and strawberry, followed by a rich, spicy texture and a long silky finish.

Wine#4:  Leyda, Lot 21 Pinot Noir, Chile, 2018

The producer: Viña Leyda is a Chilean winery located in the Leyda Valley, approximately 90 kilometers west of Santiago.  Renowned for its cool coastal climate, the Leyda Valley benefits from the Humboldt Current, which brings cold ocean breezes that moderate temperatures, allowing for a slow and balanced grape ripening process.

Viña Leyda emphasizes minimal intervention in both vineyard and cellar practices to authentically express the character of its coastal terroir. The winery employs sustainable viticulture methods and prefers fermenting in concrete tanks, casks, and stainless steel over extensive oak aging. This approach preserves the wines’ freshness, minerality, and elegance – hallmarks of their style .

The wine:

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 13.5%

Soils: The soils are mostly made up of clay and loam, with a granite base.

Wine making: Early harvests is implemented to guarantee a fresh-fruit profile of herbal character with low alcohol. Gentle vinification is carried out, avoiding over extraction in reds. Little barrel aging is used, with a preference for casks, concrete tanks, and stainless steel. 

Tasting Notes:  This wine presents a ruby red hue with floral and fresh red fruit aromas, incluidas cherry, redcurrant, and raspberry. Subtle notes of mushrooms and earthy tones add complexity. On the palate, it is bright and juicy. The wine features soft and silky tannins, contributing to its elegant mouthfeel. The balance between acidity and fruitiness provides a refreshing and lingering finish. 

Accolades: The Lot 21 Pinot Noir is recognized for its elegance and depth.  It was featured in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 in 2023.

 

  1. CV Members Rating (TBA after the tasting)

 

References:

https://michelegargiulo.com/blog/history-of-pinot-noir

https://wine-searcher.com/regions-leyda-valley

Pinot noir – Wikipedia

https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/the-king-of-burgundy

www.wine-searcher.com/regions-Carneros

https://winespectator.com

www.winehistorytours.com/the-rise-of-pinot-noir-in-Chile

www.princeofpinot.com

www.princeofpinot.com/article/787

www.princeofpinot.com/article/214

A Complete Guide To Pinot Noir – Pinot Days

 

About Us    –   Tasting Meeting Synopses  – Annual Tasting Programs  – Membership and Operations – Talks About Wine-Members Corner  –   Club Members   –  Moments Some Club del Vino History in Pictures

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Que Vinazo

 

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Tasting No 276 – April 29, 2025 – A Blind Tasting of Red Wines

Posted on April 29, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 276 – April 29, 2025 12:30 PM- A Blind Tasting of Red Wines

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 Tasting Overview

This was completely blind tasting, with the goal of discussing the characteristics of each wine, and not in any way an attempt to identify the wines. Four red wines from different grape varieties and with similar prices were selected for this tasting, while no information was circulated before the meeting. At the beginning, before food was served, Ricardo distributed a sheet describing the Systematic Approach to Tasting Wine, and explained how we should carry out the tasting.

After an initial taste we offered a round of comments by the participants. Then, the wines were revealed and everyone had an opportunity for a second round of comments. The wines were served in a random order all at the same time. At the end, all participants ranked the wines before revealing their prices.

Presenter: Ricardo Santiago

Participants: : S. Ardila; R. Arroio; M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; J. Claro; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; J. Estupiñan; M. Fryer; R. Gutierrez; O. Mason; A. and C. Perazza; L and J. Redwood; R. Santiago; E. Silva; G. Smart; and G. Zincke.

  1. The Menu

  • Melanzane alla Parmigiana
  • Risotto con Portobello
  • Grilled lamb chops with roasted potatoes
  • Dessert, coffee or tea.

  1. The Wines

A – Purple Hands, ‘Latchkey Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, 2022 ($66)

The Producer: Purple Hands Vineyards celebrates site-specific pinot noir and chardonnay that unearth the Willamette Valley’s long evolutionary history. Using traditional winemaking techniques, they strive to produce wines that convey an honest expression of each of their vineyards—its grapevines and cultivation, soil and stone, sunshine and rain. All of their wines undergo native fermentation and remain unfined and unfiltered at bottling to preserve their natural, wild character. Achieving elegance in this pursuit is the passion and art of their craft.

Latchkey Vineyard is situated 500 feet ASL on a southern aspect in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Planted mainly to Pinot Noir from the Pommard family as well as Chardonnay, the vineyard spans 13 acres that stretch from the top of the hill down to the road below. It sits directly South of Haakon/Lenai Vineyard.

The Wine: 100% Pinot Noir. “The Pinot Noir Latchkey 2022 wine is from 18-year-old vines grown on ancient volcanic soils. A bit deeper ruby red, it’s aromatic of black raspberries, rosemary, pressed flowers, and anise. Medium to full-bodied, it is ripe with a rounded, plush, approachable feel, but it has seamless structure and is going to age gracefully over the coming 12-15 years”. (Jeb Dunnuck).

Courtesy A. Perazza April 29, 2025 Capri Restaurant

B – Faust, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nappa Valley, 2021 ($60)

The Producer: Faust, the producer, seeks to express the complexity of Cabernet Sauvignon and the diversity of the Napa Valley by sourcing from our estate vineyards in Coombsville and Rutherford, as well as from small lots on Atlas Peak, Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain. The culmination of these exceptional appellations results in a prodigious expression of Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Wine: A Blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented with Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. “Cabernet’s classic aromas and flavors star in the 2021 Faust Napa Valley. Delicate violet notes lift the dark fruit on the nose—black currant and briary blackberry—layered with pungent forest botanicals, leafy tobacco, graphite, and toasted spice. The velvet of fine-textured tannins backs expressive red fruit flavors on a complex palate, both sweet and savory with mocha and minerality, juicy ripe fruit and freshness.” (Wine Spectator).

C – Duckhorn, Napa Valley Merlot, 2021 ($66)

The producer: Founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn in 1976, Duckhorn Vineyards has been crafting classic Napa Valley wines for nearly 40 years. This winemaking tradition has grown to include seven meticulously farmed Estate vineyards, located throughout the various microclimates of the Napa Valley. Focused on quality and consistency, these Estate vineyards are an essential element in making wines of distinction. Pioneering and perfecting Merlot as a premium varietal, Duckhorn Vineyards now makes several elegant Merlot and distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings that showcase its premium vineyard sites. Duckhorn Vineyards has been named one of the “Top 100 Wineries” in the world eight times by Wine & Spirits.

The wine: A Blend of 76% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Crafted from both mountain and valley floor vineyards, this alluring wine embodies the rich diversity of great Napa Valley Merlot. From its velvety tannins and lively acidity to luxurious layers of plum, candied black cherry, red licorice and sweet baking spices this gracefully structured Merlot glides to a lush, lingering finish.

Courtesy A. Perazza April 29, 2025 Capri Restaurant

D – Ceretto Barolo 2019 ($70)

The producer: The Langhe hills of Piedmont constitute that area of northern Italy where the wide and flat Pò River valley suddenly disappears and gives way on all sides to hulking and precipitous slopes. The Langhe hills are home to a small group of farmers and winemakers who, together, have succeeded in creating some of the planet’s finest expressions of place. The Ceretto family is among that fortunate group. For three generations members of the Ceretto family have transformed the fruit of the Langhe’s vineyards into wines that speak of the regions identity.

The wine: 100% Nebbiolo. Ceretto’s 2019 Barolo Classico has soft notes of rose petals, cigar box and red forest berries on the nose. The wine’s well-balanced acidity entices the consumer to take another sip as this wine is a complete joy on its own by-the-glass or when paired with a myriad of meat or cream-based dishes.

 

  1. CV Members Rating

The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with 14 participants rating them  in order of preference. All wines were considered either very good or excellent by the majority of the participants. The overall conclusion was that Faust, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 was the best wine,  followed by Duckhorn, Napa Valley Merlot, 2021.

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Best Wines of the Club del Vino Tasting Program of 2024

Posted on March 27, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Best Wines of the Club del Vino Tasting Program of 2024  Wines from Italy

 

In 2024, Club del Vino hosted 12 tastings, featuring a total of 48 Italian different wines, including whites, reds, and sparkling varieties. Participants rated each wine using a qualitative scale, which was then converted into numerical values to determine overall quality scores. While individual ratings ranged from acceptable to exceptional, the group’s combined scores for most wines fell between good and excellent.

The list below highlights the top-ranked wines from each tasting event, based on group ratings. Final scores were adjusted to account for the number of participants in each session. Five wines received an “excellent” rating, achieving an average score between 4 (excellent) and 5 (exceptional). This selection includes one sparkling wine and four reds, showcasing the diversity and excellence of Italian wines.

  • Best wines of 2024: 

  •  Cá del Bosco, Anna Maria Clementi, Franciacorta Riserva DOCG, 2014 (Tasting #261)
  •  Paolo Scavino, Barolo Prapò, 2019 (Tasting #264)
  •  Nino Negri, Sforzato di Valtellina, ‘Sfursat Carlo Negri’, 2019 (Tasting #270)
  •  Masi, ‘Riserva Costasera’, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, 2018 (Tasting #268)
  •  Mastroberardino, Radici Taurasi Riserva DOCG, 2017 (Tasting 265)

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Tasting No 275 – March 25, 2025 – Wines from South Africa

Posted on March 22, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 275 – March 25, 2025 – Wines from South Africa

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 

  1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore the wines from South Africa’s Coastal Region in the Western Cape.  We will taste four wines: one white, two red blends (one a Bordeaux Blend) and one Pinotage. This is an open tasting.

Presenters: Gabriela Vega and Janet Entwistle

Participants: TBA

The wines

  1. Fairvalley, Chenin Blanc, Western Cape 2024
  2. Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons, ‘Classique’, Western Cape, 2020
  3. Kaapzicht, Rooiland, Pinotage, Stellenbosch, 2021
  4. Boekenhoutskloof, ‘The Chocolate Block’, Swartland, 2022

 

The Menu

  • Seafood salad
  • Risotto with mushrooms
  • Steak and mixed vegetables
  • Dessert, coffee or tea

 

  1. South Africa Wine and its History

The Wine of Origin system is the legal structure introduced in 1972 to acknowledge and protect the diversity of terroir in the country. It classifies South Africa wine-growing areas into four categories: Geographical Units – generic labeling terms, such as ‘Northern Cape’ or ‘Western Cape’; regions, encompassing many districts, such as ‘Coastal Region’); districts, such as ‘Paarl’, ‘Stellenbosch’ and ‘Franschhoek Valley’, within the Coastal Region; and wards, the smallest of all Wine of Origin (WO) categories. An example is Constantia in the Cape Point district.

South African vineyards are concentrated in the Western Cape, one of nine of the country’s provinces, located in the southwest of South Africa (see red area on map above).  There are four winemaking regions with the Western Cape: the Coastal Region, Breed River Valley, Cape South Coast and Klein Karoo.  Each region has multiple wine districts.

In 1652 the Dutch East India Company established the Cape Colony to provision its ships making the journey between Europe and Asia.  The first governor, Jan van Riebeeck, arrived in what would be Cape Town in 1652 and requested that vine cuttings be sent. Records show that vines (including Chenin Blanc and Semillon) arrived in three different shipments in 1655 and 1656, and the cuttings were “uit Vranckryk” (from France).  Van Riebeeck records the first pressing of Muscat and Chenin Blanc grapes on February 2, 1659. Thus, South Africa was producing its first wine a hundred years before Thomas Jefferson’s unsuccessful experiment to grow French varieties at Monticello.  Riebeeck’s successor, Simon van der Stel, created the first modern vineyard and winery on his mountainside estate and called it Constantia, which produced a world-famous sweet wine enjoyed by European royalty.  Some of today’s prominent wineries—Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig, Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia— were once part of the original Constantia estate. In 1679 Van der Stel also founded what was to become the principal locus of wine production in South Africa and named it after himself—Stellenbosch.  A little later, he also founded the Vergelegen estate, one of today’s premiere wineries. With the arrival in the 1680s of French Huguenot immigrants, familiar with viticulture and the making of wine and brandy, South Africa’s wine future was set.  Many of the original wine-producing estates continue to exist today, such as Simonsig (established by Jacques Malan in 1688), Fairview (1699), Boschendal (established in 1685 as Bossendaal), Cape Chamonix (part of the original 1688 La Cotte estate), Diemersdal (1698), and many more.

The 20th century was a time of extraordinary ferment in South Africa’s wine history. Abraham Perold created the Pinotage variety and brought new varieties from Europe to South Africa. Like many other wine-producing countries, South Africa has experienced times of boom and bust. In the early 19th century, wine was South Africa’s most important export. But the removal of UK preferential tariffs in 1825 threw the industry into depression. Another bust occurred late in the 19th century when Phylloxera decimated vineyards.  In the 20th century, another boom and bust was followed by the creation of a large cooperative, KWV, to provide greater stability of income to growers, and in 1924 the government empowered it to set prices for the entire South African wine industry.  It reduced the supply of table wine by distilling large amounts into brandy and fortified wine and produced large quantities of inexpensive wine for the domestic market. As with most such cooperatives, there were few incentives for improving quality.  With many twists and turns, KWV’s role remained dominant until the advent of deregulation with the 1994 election of the Government of National Unity. In 1997, KWV was converted to a private company.

The South African wine industry was also adversely affected by a global boycott resulting from the government’s apartheid policy.  By the 1980s South Africa found its wine export markets shrinking.  Foreigners shunned investing in the industry, and winemakers found themselves increasingly isolated.  The removal of sanctions in the mid-1990s combined with the privatization of KWV opened up export markets, stimulated domestic and foreign investment, and introduced incentives to raise quality and produce wines demanded by the rest of the world. However, by then South Africa was playing a game of catch-up to countries like Australia and Chile. Still, exports grew rapidly, from 50 million liters in 1994 to 400 million liters in 2010.  The dying days of apartheid and birth of the new republic coincided with hugely positive shifts in the wine industry, both in terms of investment and ideas. Winemakers began introducing new varieties and exploring new regions with marginal growing conditions.

The Coastal Region

All the wines selected for this tasting are from the Coastal Region in the Western Cape.  There are ten wine districts/wards (Wine of Origin) in this region.  Wines chosen for the tasting are from four of these districts: Paarl, Stellenbosch, Franschhoek Valley and Swartland.

While the geographic area devoted to wine making in the Western Cape is relatively small, proximity to oceans on both the south and west and the mountainous nature of much of the terrain provides incredible variety in terms of microclimate. Altitude, exposure, temperature, rainfall, and soils vary greatly over small distances. Differences in microclimates and soils provide the rationale for more than 100 appellations currently in existence.  The soils in these appellations tend to be degraded sandstone, granite and shale mixed in different portions with clay depending on location.  The climates of the different regions vary greatly depending on proximity to the sea, altitude, and prevailing winds.

Paarl. Paarl’s vineyards are found on the lower slopes of Paarl Rock, on the northern side of Simonsberg Mountain and in the valley of the Berg River. The two mountains provide well-drained granite and shale soils for the vines, while the soil on the valley floor is more sandstone-based.

Paarl’s climate is relatively hot compared with average summer temperatures of 24°C.  Long, hot summers and cold, rainy winters are typical of the area. Rainfall is moderate to high, but such is the heat that vineyards are often irrigated over summer to help cool the plants. The Atlantic Ocean, 60km away, has a small amount of influence in the form of a cooling afternoon breeze.

Stellenbosch. The Stellenbosch district is the second oldest wine region in South Africa, after Constantia ward, and is responsible for around 14% of the country’s annual wine production. It is a complex district with hills and mountains offering widely varying altitudes and soils (mostly sandstone and granite), multiple exposures, and access to sea breezes. Average summer temperatures are about 21.5°C.

Franschhoek Valley. It has predominantly sandstone soil and slightly warmer weather (23.5°C summer average) than Stellenbosch.

Swartland. Soil tends to shale and sandstone, and at 23.3°C, average summer (February) temperatures are about 2° higher than Stellenbosch.

 

  1. Grape Varietals of Note

In 2015, SAWIS (South African Wine Information and Systems) reported that the country had 100,146 hectares of vineyards, with about 55% planted with white varieties. Many grape varietals are planted in South Africa and red blends are popular. Chenin Blanc and Pinotage both have important histories unique to South Africa.

Chenin Blanc. This grape has long been the most widely planted variety in South Africa, still accounting for over 18% of all grape area planted as of 2015, though it is slowly decreasing in overall share of vineyard area. South Africa produces about twice as much Chenin Blanc as the Loire Valley in France, where the original wine cuttings taken to the Cape Colony originated, as early as 1655. The Mediterranean climate and ancient decomposed dolomite granite and Table Mountain sandstone soils of the South African Western Cape produce wines that are more fruit driven and higher in alcohol than the Chenin of the Loire, but the wines are equally well-balanced with excellent acidity. As is true in the Loire, the oaked Chenin Blanc of South Africa generally improves with a couple of years in the bottle.

Chenin Blanc became the workhorse of South African wine, used to produce inexpensive wine for drinking and for distillation.  It was only in the early 1990s that winemakers discovered the treasure that was old bush vine Chenin Blanc and began producing high quality wines. By the mid-90s, winemakers were experimenting with the use of barrel aging, and Hilko Hegewisch (Boschendal) won the first Chenin Blanc Challenge in 1996 with wooded wine.

Among South Africa’s several wine associations organized to facilitate exchange of learning between producers and to promote their wines, The Chenin Blanc Association (CBA) is one of the most successful.

Chenin Blanc is a grape that is sensitive to its terroir, especially the type of soil in which it is grown.  Soils affect the aroma, flavor and minerality of the wine. For this reason, some producers blend grapes from both granite and sandstone-based soils for complexity and balance. The training of the vine also affects fruit quality.  Compared to trellised vines, bush vines produce lower yields and more dense clusters of smaller grapes with thicker skins. Chenin Blanc is grown throughout the warmer, interior growing regions, with clusters of old vines in the Swartland, Paarl, and Stellenbosch.

Chenin Blanc styles run a continuum from stainless-steel fermented, unwooded wines that are easy drinking with straightforward fruit flavors, to barrel fermented and aged wines that are rich, ripe and complex.   The best Chenin Blancs are rich, judiciously oaked, and densely flavored wines with 6-11 g/l residual sugar.  Many are made from the fruit of dry-farmed, extremely low-yielding, old (35+ years) bush vines, that are fermented in partially new oak (mostly 400 L barrels), spend extended time on the lees in barrel, and may even have a small amount of botrytis or even ‘raisined’ fruit. As in the Loire, producers like Miles Mossop do multiple passes (tries) through the vineyard to select optimally ripe fruit.  Fermentation is sometimes slow and long, using ambient yeasts, with extended time (up to 12 months) on the lees and at least partial malolactic process to provide the creamy texture one expects from these wines. 

Pinotage. Pinotage is South Africa’s national grape though with only 6% of plantings.  In 1924 Professor Abraham Izak Perold at the University of Stellenbosch crossed Cinsault and Pinot Noir with the goal of creating a wine that had classic Burgundy flavors and the disease resistant quality and vigor of the Rhône’s Cinsault.  His work and that of others (Dr. Charlie Niehaus and Professor C.J. Theron) resulted in the creation of a new grape known as Pinotage. Kanonkop planted Pinotage as early as 1941, but the variety first acquired fame when Bellevue Pinotage won the 1959 National Young Wine Show. The Stellenbosch Farmer’s Winery subsequently marketed the wine—the first to be sold as Pinotage—in 1961 under the Lanzerac label.

Pinotage is mostly grown in the Stellenbosch-Franschhoek-Paarl belt, with the Bottelary Hills offering a concentration of excellent producers including Kaapzicht.  Grapes are normally harvested early to mid-February, well before Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Harvesting Pinotage ripe, but not over-ripe, is key to making quality wine.   The best producers of Pinotage craft wines that are fruit-forward, fresh and elegant using winemaking methods similar to those for Pinot Noir.  They use pre-fermentation cold soaks and short hot alcoholic fermentations in open top fermenters.  These techniques help promote the fruity aromatic qualities of the wine (eliminating acetone or burnt rubber smells) and ensure good color.  The fermenters are of differing materials (Kanonkop uses epoxy tanks) and differing sizes (small tanks allow for fermenting small lots).  Most winemakers use cultured yeast and punch down the cap by hand.  Pressing is done with bladder, or basket presses and after settling, the wine is transferred to barrels for maturation.  The top winemakers use medium toast barrels and rarely use new oak. Maturation in barrels can last for 12 to 18 months before blending or bottling.

 

  1. Information on the Wines

♦ Wine #1.  Fairvalley, Chenin Blanc, 2024

The Producer: The Fairvalley wines are produced by the Fairvalley Farm Workers Association a group of black South African employees from the Fairview Wine and Cheese Estate in South Africa and are Fairtrade certified. Fairview’s owner, Charles Back, is probably the most awarded wine producer in South Africa, a receptor of the International Wine Challenge Lifetime Achievement Award. He supported the creation of the association in 1997, set up by 36 families, to develop and manage their own property. The following year saw the first vintage of Fairvalley wines, produced using all the facilities of Fairview cellar. Launched as a socio-economic empowerment venture, today Fairvalley relies on the available skills amongst workers who all have long years of experience in grape cultivation, wine production and packaging. The association’s profits fund community projects like education and housing.

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2024
  • Grape: 100% Chenin Blanc
  • Region/Wine of Origin (WO): Coastal Region, Western Cape
  • Soil: decomposed granite and sandstone
  • Winemaking: Grapes come from Paarl, Stellenbosh and Swartland; fermentation in stainless-steel tanks for 3 weeks, then              aged in non-oak barrels in fine lees for 4 months.
  • Alcohol: 13%
  • Residual sugar: 2.9 g/l
  • Total Acidity: 6.5 g/l
  • pH: 3.38

Tasting notes: Fruity with citrus, pineapple, pears tones with a bit of honey to balance the crisp, fresh acidity.

Pairings: Works well with light, fresh dishes, salads, shellfish, and seafood pasta in creamy sauces. 

 

♦  Wine #2. Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons, ‘Classique’, 2020

The Producer: Production at Franschhoek Valley, at the foot of the Simonsberg mountain, started in 1997, as a joint venture of the Baron Edmond de Rothschild from France and Anton Rupert, a South African businessman. They focused on the production of only three crafted wines – two Bordeaux blends (Classique and Baron Edmond) and one Chardonnay (Baroness Nadine).

The wine:

  • Vintage: 2020
  • Grape composition: Bordeaux blend of Merlot (41%), Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Cabernet Franc (11%), Petit Verdot (8%), Malbec (1%)
  • Region/Wine of Origin (W.O.): Franschhoek Valley, Paarl, Coastal
  • Soil: granite and sandstone
  • Fermentation: in stainless-steel tanks. Aging in French oak barrels for 12 to 16 months.
  • Alcohol: 13.5%
  • Residual sugar: 2.7 g/l
  • Total Acidity: 6 g/l
  • pH: 3.56

Tasting notes: Aromas of red plum, raspberries, and cherries; forest floor and oak spice; toasted caramel and walnut. The palate has a fresh red fruit core with soft tannins and good persistence.

Pairings: pairs well with dishes like beef sirloin, lamb, venison, and dishes featuring mushrooms, roasted beets, goats’ cheese, and kalamata olives. 

♦   Wine #3. Kaapzicht, Rooiland Pinotage, 2021

The Producer: It is a production of the Kaapzicht Wine Estate from the Steytler family, at the Rozendal farm, in Bottelary, Stellenbosch starting in 1946. The first Pinotage vineyard was planted on the farm in 1959 – a pioneering move, as this was still a young, fairly unknown, South African variety. Among the many wines produced by the Steytler family are three other Pinotage: two cheaper wines, Pinotage Rosé and Skraalhans Pinotage, and the Steytler Pinotage that in 2006 won Decanter’s best red wine in the world, cementing Kaapzicht’s position as one of the top Pinotage producers in South Africa.

The Wine: Rooiland Pinotage’s name comes from the red gravel soil it grows on (Rooiland means red land).

  • Vintage: 2021
  • Grape: 100% Pinotage
  • Region/Wine of Origin (WO): Stellenbosch, Coastal Region
    • Soil: red gravel
    • Viticulture: unirrigated bush vines planted in 1995 and 1997 respectively, which yield between 4.2 and 6 tons per hectare
    • Fermentation and ageing: Grapes are hand-picked, then crushed and destemmed into stainless-steel tanks for fermentation. Biodynamic yeast is used to inoculate the fermentation to enhance and preserve terroir characters in stainless-steel tanks. Ageing in 300L barrels between 16 and 18 months. After blending the wine is aged 5 to 7 years in concrete tanks until bottling
    • Alcohol: 14%
    • Residual sugar: 4.7 g/l
    • Total Acidity: 6.1 g/l
    • pH: 3.52

Tasting notes: aromas of blackberry, mulberry and blackcurrant, while rich oak and vanilla spice creates a lasting and textural finish.

Pairings: Pinotage pairs well with rich, savory dishes like grilled meats, barbecue, stews, and a strong cheese, thanks to its smoky, earthy, and full-bodied characteristics. 

♦    Wine #4. Boekenhoutskloof, ‘Chocolate Block’, 2022

The Producer: The Boekenhoutskloof farm and winery has existed since the 18th century but was bought and reconstructed in the 1990s. It is located in the furthest corner of the beautiful Franschhoek valley. The farm’s name means “ravine of the Boekenhout”. Boekenhout is an indigenous Cape Beech tree greatly prized for furniture making.

The first vintage of the Chocolate Block wine was released in 2002.

The Wine: The Chocolate Block is often compared to France’s Cote du Rhône, Chateauneuf du Pape.

  • Vintage: 2022
  • Grape composition Syrah 77%; Grenache 9%; Cinsault 8%; Cabernet Sauvignon 5%; Viognier 1%
  • Region/Wine of Origin (W.O.): Swartland, Coastal Region
  • Soil: granite-rich soils
  • Fermentation: Whole berries fermented in a combination of concrete and stainless-steel fermenters with no additions being made.
  • Aging: 95% of the juice aged in seasoned 225L French barrique, and 5% (Cabernet Sauvignon) in new 225L French barrique, using an OXO system to rotate the     barrels for 12 to 14 months
  • Alcohol: 14.5% ABV
  • Residual Sugars: 3.36 g/l
  • Total Acidity: 5.16 g/l
  • pH: 3.85

Tasting notes: Aromas of boysenberry and dark cherry, with brambly red fruit, mocha, and crushed violet. The palate has soft tannins, with an engaging graphite-tinged finish.

Pairings: serve with roast beef, spaghetti in rich tomato sauce, or game. It’s also the perfect partner for cheese like brie or stilton, or a deep dark chocolate ganache.

 

  1. CV Members Ratings:   TBA after the tasting

 

References

https://wine-searcher.com

https://www.fairvalley.co.za

https://www.fairview.co.za

https://rupert-rothschildvignerons.com

https://kaapzicht.co.za

https://www.boekenhoutskloof.co.za

https://vineyards.com/wine-map/south-africa

The International Wine Review, Report #30, The Wines of South Africa, February 2012 chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://i-winereview.com/sample/i-WineReview-R30-Wines_of_South_Africa.pdf

The International Wine Review, South African Chenin Blanc, May 13, 2010

https://i-winereview.com/blog/index.php/2010/05/13/south-african-chenin-blanc-some-of-the-best-from-raats-riebeek-mulderbosch-de-morgenzon-rudera-ken-forrester-and-de-trafford/

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Laughing? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Tasting No 274 – February 25, 2025 Shiraz/Syrah from Australia and France

Posted on February 20, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 274 – February 25, 2025  Shiraz/Syrah from Australia and France

           Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

  

  1. Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore Shiraz wines by comparing those from Australia with those produced by France. The following are the reasons for selecting Shiraz wines from these two countries:

Australia

Importance: Shiraz plays a significant role in Australia’s wine industry.

  • It is the most planted winegrape variety and is grown almost everywhere, from the Barossa Valley to Hunter Valley.
  • Shiraz wine grapes can adapt and thrive in various climates.
  • The area planted represents nearly half of Australia’s red wine grape plantings.
  • Shiraz has gained a strong reputation globally and contributes significantly to wine exports
  • Australia is home to some of the world’s oldest continuously productive Shiraz vines, some dating to the mid-19th century.

Quality: It varies widely

  • From affordable, everyday drinking wines to some of the most sought-after, collectible fine wines.
  • Shiraz wines are known for their medium to full-bodied character, with varying flavor profiles depending on the region, climate, and winemaking techniques.
  • The use of different oak types for maturation and the trend of co-fermenting Shiraz with Viognier have added complexity and diversity to the styles.

France

Importance: Shiraz, known as Syrah in France, plays a significant role in French wine production. particularly in the Rhône Valley.

  • It is the main red grape variety used in the Rhône Valley, either as a single varietal or as part of a blend, adding depth and complexity to Rhone wines.
  • Its production is crucial to the wine industry, contributing to some of the most esteemed wines in the world.

Quality: Syrah wines from France have exceptional quality.

  • The northern Rhône, with its cool climate and granite-based soils, produces wines with elegant structure, intense aromas, and a distinct peppery character.
  • Their high acidity and tannin levels favor their aging potential.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Jorge García and Clara Estrada

Participants: S. Ardila; R. Connolly; J. Entwistle; M. Fryer; J. García; P. Meduña; C. Perazza; L. and J. Redwood; E. Silva; G. Smart; P. Turina; L. Uechi; G. Vega; and G. Zincke.

 

These are the wines:

  1. Tyrrell’s Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia, 2023
  2. Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, South Australia, 2020
  3. d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia, 2018
  4. Domaine de Remizieres, Hermitage Cuvée Emilie, Rhone, France, 2019

The Menu:  

  • Mussels in white wine sauce
  • Grilled Portobello mushrooms with zucchini
  • Beef tenderloin with baked potatoes
  • Dessert, coffee and tea.

  1. Geography of wine production in Australia and Rhône Valley  

Hunter Valley, New South Wales: located in New South Wales, Australia, it is one of the country’s oldest and most renowned wine regions. Overall, the geographic characteristics of Hunter Valley create an ideal environment for producing high-quality white Semillon wines that are both refreshing and capable of aging beautifully:  

  • Climate: Warm, humid with long sunny days and cool nights, perfect for Semillon grapes.
  • Soil: Alluvial and volcanic, providing excellent drainage and nutrients.
  • Topography: Hills and mountains moderate temperature and protect vineyards.
  • Proximity to the Coast: Cooling sea breezes balance the warm climate.

Key Aspects of Semillon Production:

  • Acidity and Freshness: Maintained by cool nights and sea breezes.
  • Ripening: Warm days ensure full ripeness and complex flavors.
  • Aging Potential: High acidity and balanced flavors allow for graceful aging.
  • Minimal Intervention: Winemakers rely on natural characteristics of grapes and terroir.

 

McLaren Vale, South Australia: it is renowned for its exceptional Shiraz wines. McLaren Vale is home to some of the oldest vines in the country, dating as far back as 1850. McLaren Vale also excels in producing ultra-premium Grenache and Cabernet, as well as other Mediterranean red varieties such as Vermentino, Tempranillo, Sangiovese. Overall, these geographic characteristics of McLaren Vale create an ideal environment for producing some of the finest Shiraz wines in the world:

  • Climate: Mediterranean with warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters.
  • Soil: Diverse range including sandy loam, clay, and terra rossa.
  • Topography: Situated between Mount Lofty Ranges and Gulf St Vincent, creating microclimates.
  • Proximity to the Coast: Cooling sea breezes moderate temperatures.

Key Aspects of Shiraz Production:

  • Ripening: Warm climate ensures optimal ripeness.
  • Acidity and Structure: Maintained by cooling sea breezes and diverse soils.
  • Terroir: Unique sense of place expressed in wines.
  • Variety of Styles: From fresh and fruity to rich and complex.

Rhône Valley, France: is a renowned wine-producing region located in Southeastern France; it is divided into two sub-regions: the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône. Its geographic characteristics in both sub-regions make them ideal for producing Shiraz (Syrah) wines:

  • Climate: Northern Rhône has a continental climate; Southern Rhône has a Mediterranean climate.
  • Soil: Northern Rhône has granite and schist soils; Southern Rhône has clay, limestone, and alluvial soils.
  • Topography: Northern Rhône has steep slopes; Southern Rhône has flatter terrain with rolling hills.
  • Proximity to the river: the Rhône River moderates temperatures and provides water.

Key Aspects of Syrah Production:

  • Ripening: Warm climates ensure full ripeness.
  • Terroir Expression: Diverse soils and topography showcase unique characteristics.
  • Quality and Prestige: Northern Rhône produces prestigious Syrah wines; Southern Rhône produces high-quality Syrah often blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
  • Variety of Styles: From structured and complex to fruit-forward and approachable.

 

 

 

  1. The Shiraz/Syrah grape varietal

In 1999, it was discovered that Syrah was the offspring of two obscure grapes from southeastern France, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. Syrah should not be confused with Petite Sirah, a cross of Syrah with Peloursin dating from 1880. Dureza is believed to have originated in the Ardèche (#1) in the southwest and moved east/northeast into Drôme (#2) and Isère (#3). Somewhere in this area, most likely in Isère, the vine crossed with Mondeuse Blanche, a variety native to the Savoie region (#4), to produce Syrah.

  1. Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Tyrrell’s Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia, 2023

– The Producer: The Tyrrell’s estate, nestled in the foothills of the Brokenback Range in the Australia’s Hunter Valley, is a unique patchwork of vineyards. Edward Tyrrell founded the winery in 1858 by taking a concessional allotment of 320 acres of prime Hunter Valley land, in what is considered Australia’s first grape-growing wine region. He began to plant Shiraz and Semillon vines and harvests the grapes for his first vintage in 1864. Several generations of the Tyrell family have continued growing and winemaking in the Hunter Valley for more than 160 years, amassing an immense knowledge of the Valley. Thriving in a diverse range of soils, from sandy loams lying on ancient creek beds to heavier red clays over limestone, these vineyards produce some of the most distinctive and refined wines in the world. All the estate parcels are well established, with many sites bearing vines that are more than 100 years old. Their Vat 1 Semillon is Australia’s most awarded white wine, having won almost 5,500 medals and more than 330 trophies.

– The wine:

  • Vintage: 2023
  • Grape: 100% Semillon
  • Viticulture: Sourced from a small selection of some of our top Semillon vineyards. Most of the vineyards are dry grown and have an average age of 40 years;
  • Fermentation in stainless steel tanks followed by a short period on yeast lees to gain complexity and mouth feel.
  • 8% APV

Winemaker’s notes: Classic Hunter Valley Semillon from another strong vintage. The nose is vibrant with an abundance of citrus fruits and floral elements. The palate is medium bodied, yet intense, with great length and a brisk acidity.

Wine #2.  Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, South Australia, 2020

– The Producer. After the success of early sherries and fortified wines, founders Dr. Christopher and Mary Penfold planted their vine cuttings in 1844 and the vineyard was officially established as the Penfolds wine company at Magill Estate. From the beginning in 1844 to today, the merging of science, art and innovation has driven Penfolds to become one of Australia’s most famed and respected winemakers.

– The Wine: Bin 28 offers a showcase of warm climate Australian shiraz – ripe, robust and generously flavored. First made in 1959, Bin 28 was originally named after the famous Barossa Valley Kalimna vineyard purchased by Penfolds in 1945 and from which the wine was originally sourced. Today, Bin 28 is a multi-region, multi-vineyard blend, with the Barossa Valley always well represented.

  • Vintage: 2023
  • Grape: 100% Shiraz
  • Region: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Clare Valley -South Australia
  • Viticulture: multi-region; multi-vineyard blending;
  • Matured for 12 months in seasoned American oak hogheads with 16% new oak.
  • 5% ABV
  • Wine Bronze, 2020 vintage (International Wine&Spirit Competition)

Vintage conditions: South Australia experienced the second consecutive year of winter drought. Spring was cool and dry, conditions that continued well into November delaying flowering and fruit-set. With soil moisture levels well below average, irrigation was vital. The 2019 calendar year was the driest on record in the Barossa Valley. While bunch weights and berry numbers were generally low across the regions, the harvest produced some outstanding parcels of shiraz.

Winemaker’s notes. Color is black ruby plum, magenta rim with black core; the Nose is benchmark penfolds shiraz: a generous kaleidoscope of warm-climate aromatics; blackcurrant, black plum, ironstone, cocoa powder, dark chocolate, cola; chocolate gateau, adorned with candied cherries. Earthy north African spices: ‘Ras el Hanout’ – paprika, cinnamon, pepper, cloves, fennel. On the Palate, always honest, warm, approachable. Chocolate mud cake dense, rich, opulent. Cinnamon syrup poached red cherries. Coconut shavings, milk chocolate… wait, a Bounty bar!  Summer plum pudding with currants and crème anglaise. Bone marrow broth, Vietnamese Phò – layered complexity and texture. Turmeric, cinnamon, and star anise clove.  Cola with a suggestion of Chinotto bitterness. Sweet, layered fruit with earthy spices. Mouthcoating, chewy tannins. Cherry pip acidity. Peak drinking: now-2040.

Wine #3. d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia, 2018

– The Producer: d’Arenberg is a wine producer located in the McLaren Vale subregion of South Australia. The 60-plus wines in the portfolio are known as much for their quirky names as they are for their quality – d’Arenberg’s flagship wine is called the Dead Arm. The estate was established in 1912 by Joseph Osborn, who initially sold grapes from the vineyards to other wineries in the region. The d’Arenberg winery was built in 1927, and today, the estate is run by fourth-generation Chester Osborn and his father. This is one of the only wineries in Australia to basket-press both white and reds wines, a labor-intensive process, and the quality of the results makes this worthwhile. From entry level to iconic, all d’Arenberg wines are basket pressed.

– The Wine: The name Dead Arm comes from a vine disease caused by the fungus Eutypa lata that causes one arm of the vine to die. The affected vines often are severely pruned or replanted. One half, or an ‘arm’ of the vine slowly becomes reduced to dead wood. That side may be lifeless and brittle, but the grapes on the other side, while low yielding, display amazing intensity.

  • Vintage: 2018
  • Grape: 100% Shiraz
  • Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
  • Vinification: small batches of grapes are gently crushed and then transferred to five tons headed down open fermenters. These batches remain separate until final blending. Foot treading is undertaken two thirds of the way through fermentation. The wine is then basket pressed and transferred to a mixture of new and used French oak barriques to complete fermentation. The barrel ferments are aged on lees for 18 months. There is no racking until final blending and no fining or filtration.
  • 14-15% ABV
  • Awards: Bronze, 2018 vintage (International Wine Challenge; International Wine&Spirit Competition); Silver, 2018 Vintage (London Wine Competition).

Tasting notes: brooding and alluring, plum, blackberry, licorice and spice entwine with a raft of dark, earthy notes. More savory than previous Dead Arms, the 2018 begins with dark fruits, damson plum, and lovely fennel seed twists. Rich balsamic glazed beets, roasted meats and jus give layers of complexity unlike anything we’ve ever seen. Superb balance. Slaty, persistent, mineral-like tannins bring a generous framework for decades of cellaring. This is a wine of history and provenance. Highly collectable, The Dead Arm is considered by many to be one of the top Shiraz in Australia.

“Rich, heady aromas of mint, mocha, ground pepper, plum and black currant preserves lead to an equally powerful, dense palate that’s wound in muscular, dusty tannins. This is a massive wine now, but everything is in place for it to go the distance—a decade, at least” (Wine Enthusiast).

Wine #4. Domaine de Remizieres, Hermitage Cuvée Emilie, Rhone, France, 2019

– The Producer: Domaine des Remizières is a family winery that has been passed down through three generations. Initially, the vineyard covered approximately 4 hectares, with part of the production delivered to the cooperative cellar. Since 1973, vinification has been entirely conducted on the property, which has now expanded to 38 hectares. The vineyards have an average age of 40 years and its vines are planted on granitic hillside soils, facing to the South. The vineyard has small parcels in several villages, and each parcel has its characteristic that are respected, to be able to exploit its “terroir”. To separate the wine coming from different terroirs the domaine vinifies in vats of small volumes. This diversity allows the winery to vinify grapes from several different but complementary terroirs, bringing a lot of complexity to their different cuvées. The respect for the terroir has earned the winery its HVE certification (High Environmental Value).

– The Wine:

  • Vintage: 2019
  • Grape: 100% Shiraz
  • Appellation: Hermitage Red
  • Viticulture: high-density goblet pruning -bush vine training- which can lead to competition for resources but also promotes a microclimate that can be beneficial for certain grape varieties. This method is often used for old-vine vineyards and can contribute to the production of high-quality wines.
  • Vinification and aging: traditional winemaking process with closed tanks and controlled temperature (28-30o C) for 28-30 days. Aging in new oak barrels for 15-18 months.
  • 5% ABV.

Tasting notes: Full-bodied wine with a lot of sweetness, good acidity, and some pleasant bitterness. Color is Steady – colored wine, very tannic (round and delicate tannins). Tannins are described as supple and soft tannic. On the nose, red fruits aromas when it is young, spices aromas after a few years. The wine is described as having an inky, licorice scent. On the palate, this Syrah offers flavors of boysenberry, black fig, and black currant, with hints of mesquite, vanilla, and clove. The wine also has a smoky, earthy undertone. It is expected to improve with cellaring and can be enjoyed up to at least 2035.

  1. CV Members Rating

    The wine tasting took place before revealing their prices, with each of the 15 participants rating them individually from Acceptable to Exceptional.

    The combined scores determined the ranking order, as shown in the following Table.
    In the final results,
    –  Domaine de Remizieres ‘Hermitage Cuvée Emilie’, France, 2019 was the Best Wine,
    – while Tyrrell’s Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia, 2023 was the Best Buy.

References:

-Wikipedia, Syrah Wikipedia, Dureza – Wikipedia, Mondeuse blanche – Wikipedia for description and references about this varieties.|

-Wayback Machine

-Jancis Robinson (ed), “The Oxford Companion to Wine, Third Edition, p.627, Oxford University Press 2006.

-www.vivino.com

-Semillon: The Crown Jewel of Hunter Valley Whites – Made in Pokolbin

-Hunter Valley Semillon: An intimate understanding with Wine Selectors Hunter Valley Wine Country – THE GRAPEVINE BLOG

-Exquisite Shiraz,… | McLaren Vale Wine Region | South Australia

-https://tyrrells.com.au/

-https://www.penfolds.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-tweus-master-catalog/default/dw338a2707/tasting-notes/Penfolds/Penfolds-TastingNotes-Bin28-2020.pdf

-https://www.darenberg.com.au/

-https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/rhone-wine-hermitage-producer-profiles/remizieres-hermitage-rhone-valley-wine/

-Rhône wine – Wikipedia

-2019 Domaine des Rémizières Hermitage Cuvée Émilie, France, Rhône, -Northern Rhône, Hermitage – CellarTracker

-https://www.domaineremizieres.com/en/presentation-2

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The unpretentious wine taster:


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Tasting No 273 – January 28, 2025 – Wine from the Kakheti Region of Georgia  

Posted on January 22, 2025 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting No 273 – January 28, 2025 – Wine from the Kakheti Region  of Georgia

            Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Presenters: Patricia Meduña and Laura Bocalandro

Participantes: S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Entwistle; J. García; P. Meduña; A. and C. Perazza; L. Redwood; G. Zincke.

The wines:

  1. Mikho, Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023
  2. Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli,  Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
  3. Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzani, Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
  4. Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti, Georgia, 2019

Menu: 

  • Eggplant parmesan
  • Seafood with linguini pasta
  • Steak
  • Dessert

— Type of Tasting: Open

The Region

  1. Georgia and its history of wine.

 

Georgia is a country between Eastern Europe and West Asia. It is located in the southern fringe of the Caucasus Mountains and surrounded by the Black Sea to the west, Russia to the north and northeast, Turkey to the southwest, Armenia to the south, and Azerbaijan to the southeast. It has a population of 3.7 million of which over a third live in the capital and largest city, Tbilisi.

Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. Based on archeological finds Georgia has been  cultivating  grapevine and producing wine for at least 8000 years. In 2015, scientists studying the history of agriculture in Georgia uncovered ancient clay vessels that contained the remains of grapes and grape seeds. The grape and seed material were dated to 6000 BC, the earliest known location for grape winemaking. Thus, even before the ancient Egyptians and Greeks developed wine cultures of their own, there was Georgian viticulture.

The ancient traditional Georgian winemaking method used Kvevri clay jars. These are very large egg-shaped  earthenware vessels with an inside coat of beeswax. When filled with the fermented juice of the harvest, the kvevris are topped with a wooden lid and then covered and sealed and buried underground . Today wine is made using either kvevris or modern stainless steel, oak barrels or concrete tanks as used in Europe.

Georgia’s climate and soil conditions are optimal for wine-making. Extremes in weather are rare. Usually summers are sunny and warm, and winters mild and frost-free. The Caucasus mountains brings streams that drain mineral-rich water into the valleys. The presence of the Black Sea gives Georgia a moderate climate and moist air, providing the best conditions for vine cultivating.

Due to its diverse and unique microclimate, modern Georgia has at least 525 indigenous grape varieties. The best-known  wine regions are in the country’s east with the Kakheti region producing 70% of Georgian wines. This  wine tasting will concentrate on wines produced in this region.  

  1. The Kakheti Wine Region

Much of the Kakheti region is too cold and high to grow grapes. Grapes are grown in the lowlands and by Kakheti’s two rivers: the Alazani River  and the Iori River. The Alzani river valley is the main growing area of the Kakheti. The left bank of the river is facing south and thus its soil is wetter and more sandy, whereas the right bank has drier and calcareous soil. 

  1. Grape varietals

Two grape varieties- Rkatsiteli and Saperavi- presently account for almost 70% of the hectares of wine planted in Georgia and the Kakheti wine region. This was the result of the Soviet control which aimed at increasing efficiency and volume and thus concentrated on these two varieties. 

Georgia and the Kakheti wine region have three types of wine. The dry white wines make up about 75% of planted vines with Rkatsiteli leading the way. Other white varieties that are notable and exported from Georgia include Mtsvane, Kisi, Tsolikouri, and Khikhvi. In red wines Saperavi leads the way.

The third type of wine, for which Georgian is known worldwide, is amber wine or “orange wine”. These wines are produced using the ancient wine-making method in which the pressed grapes are poured into the clay kvevri with their skin, stalks and pips. The kvevri is then sealed and buried underground or kept in underground cellars and left to ferment from five to six months. Amber wines take on the amber color due to the fact that they are fermented with the grape skins. The varietals used in this process are usually the Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Kisi white wines. 

  1. Tasting Overview

 The main objective of this tasting is to get to get to know the wines from the Kakheti region  of Georgia. For this open tasting four wines are presented: one white, two reds and one amber wine.

These are the wines: format/order for presenting the wines’ names: Producer (winery), name of the wine (designation), grape variety (optional for Old World wines); Appellation (or region), vintage.

  1. Mikho, Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023
  2. Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli,  Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
  3. Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzani, Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
  4. Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti, Georgia, 2019

 

 Information on the Wines

Wine #1 Amber

 Mikho,Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023

– Producer: Mikho Vineyards 

– About amber wine:

Amber wines are unique to Georgia. They present tastes of  dried orange and apricot, nuts, and honey with herbs and tannin. It is best to drink them closer to “room temperature”, between 55-65 degrees and  paired with a wide variety of food, preferably those that offer fat, salt, and spices. It is preferable to avoid bitter food. Think cheese pizza with spicy Italian sausage and red pepper flakes, hard or stinky cheeses, a Philly cheesesteak, eggplant parmesan, or a BLT. Lamb chops and steak also go well.

The amber made from Rkatsiteli grapes in  Qvevri is an organic natural amber on the skins wine. It is produced from 100% Rkatsiteli grapes hand-harvested from a single biodynamic vineyard located in Gurjaani village, Kakheti. This wine is Vegan. The must was fermented with natural yeasts of Georgian wines in Georgian clay vessels (Qvevri) for six months.  It was bottled unfiltered, according to ancient Georgian wine making traditions dating back 8000 years.  This wine presents an orange and diaphanous visual and tastes marvelous with notes of forest fruits and a long lasting finish with rich tannins. 13% alcohol per volume.

  

Wine #2 White.

Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023

The Producer                                                  

Marnaveli has been producing wine and brandy for more than 20 years. It was founded in 2002 and has been growing every year. Marnaveli  is located between Tbilisi and the Kakheti region . It follows strict industry standards and is equipped with modern technology. Their main concept is to produce wines from all over Georgia; it  collects the best wines of Georgia from vineyards where grapes are hand-picked.              

 

– The Wine

Rkatsiteli is the most important and widely planted white grape variety in Georgia and is native to Kakheti.  This grape variety is has proved extremely versatile. It is a hardy vine that can resist mildew and survive frosts. Although it does best in calcareous soils, it adapts to different terrains. It tends to be aromatic with tropical fruit and herbaceous notes and retains acidity with high sugar levels. Rkatsiteli is produced in a variety of ways ranging from fresh, dry wines to complex, amber-colored skin-contact wine, to sparkling, sweet and fortified wines. When it is made in stainless steel it has the aroma of apple and quince however, when frmented in a quevri it becomes a more complex and deeply flavored wine. Depending on the contact with the grape’s skin, it can it tastes of caramel, dried orange and spices.

 

This particular dry white wine is made from Rkatsiteli grapes grown in Kakheti and matured in oak casks. It is light amber in color, has an aroma of yellow fruits and flowers. The pleasant acidity of the white wine combines well with its softness. It is recommended to be paired with seafood, fish and cheese dishes.

 

Wine #3 Red

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzami PDO, Kakheti, 2022. 

– Information about the Producer:

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani (Kakheti, Gurjaani) KGM is a family-owned winery established in 2013. After 1991, the founder of KGM, Giorgi Kevkhishvili, began reclaiming the family vineyards confiscated by the Soviet authorities in the 1920s. Today Giorgi and his son Nugzar cultivate 500 ha of vineyards in Kakheti. Located in Village Gurjaani, KGM has vineyards in Tsinandali, Teliani, Akhasheni, Mukuzani, Manavi and Gurjaani. US Importer: Interbalt

– The  Wine

Saperavi translates as “dye” in Georgian showing the grapes intense pigmentations. Only a handful of vinifera grapes with red flesh and red skin make the saperavi wines unique.  These grapes often produce wines that are inky, dark, bold, and tannic. The wines are known for their black fruit, savory spice, mocha, and even meaty characteristics as well as notable levels of acidity and tannin. It is very much a food wine. It goes well with Italian meat sauce, grilled pork, black bean or mushroom burgers, and steak.

 

Saperavi is made in both dry and off-dry versions. Mukuzani, Napereuli, Khashmi are Saperavi PDOs that produce a dry red wine while the best known off-dry wines are Kindzmarauli and Akhasheni PDOs.

 

Wine #4 Red

Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti 2019

–The producer

Marnaveli has been producing wine and brandy for more than 20 years. It was founded in 2002 and has been growing every year. Marnaveli  is located between Tbilisi and Kakheti and is equipped with modern technology standards. Their main concept is to produce wines from all over Georgia; it collects the best wines of Georgia from friendly  vineyards where grapes are hand picked.

-The wine 

Saperavi wines are deep in color and high in acidity and tannins that require time to soften. They taste of dark berries, plum, tobacco, tea and spice. These wines  are long-lived, especially when aged in oak, and can develop notes of chocolate, licorice, and grilled meat.  This wine has matured for a full year in oak casks. The high acidity and tannins of the grapes makes it suitable for aging and thus acquiring complex secondary aromas and deepening flavors over time.

 

Marnaveli Saperavi Oaked is richly structured, generously fruity, with a  juicy aftertaste. It is food friendly. Rated excellent ( 92 points) per Mundius Vini with 13% alcohol/volume.

COMPARISON OF SAMPLED WINES FROM KAKHETI REGION, GEORGIA                                                 

Mikho, Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia,

 

 Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023

 

 Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzami Kakheti, 2022 Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti 2019

 
Producer Kratsiteli Marnaveli

 

 Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Marnaveli
Appellation Guurjani,

Kakheti

 Kakheti Mukuzami

 

 Kakheti
Type amber dry white dry white dry red dry red
Grape Rkatsitelli Rkatsiteli Saperavi Saperavi
Method/

Aging

 Qvevri (clay vessels)

 skin contact

6 months

 Oak Casks

6 months

 Oak casks  one year Oak casks

 6 months
Vintage 2023 2022 2022 2019
Alcohol 13% 12.8% 13% 13%

 

Vine prices to be disclosed after the tasting.

 

  1. CV Members Rating  

The tasting took place before revealing their prices. The wines were rated individually by 13 participants, ranging from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting, as shown in the following Table. The final result was that Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti, 2019 was the Best Wine and the Best Buy.

References

https://thecorkscrewconcierge.com/2023/09/georgian-wine-on-my-mind/

https://www.georgianwineguild.co.uk/georgian-wine/viticulture-and-winemaking-regions

The Internatioanl Wine Review, April 2024, The Wines of Kakheti and Kartli I-winereview.com

https://www.wineenthusiast.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georgian_wine

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Tasting Program 2025 of the Club del Vino

Posted on December 26, 2024 by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Tasting Program 2025 of the Club del Vino

 

 

General criteria  click here for the Tasting Program 2025

  1. Process for selecting the Year Topic. To distinguish from previous years, the CV Steering Committee prepared a survey poll among all club members to determine their preferences among four suggested themes for 2025 tasting program. The proposed option, “open-topic program,” was chosen by the majority of respondents.
  2. 2025 Tasting Program. The wine-tasting program for 2025 will be open, allowing members to cover different topics, exploring various wine regions and varieties from around the world, thereby creating presentations that suit their interests and experiences. This experimental program will depart from past programs focused on specific regions or grape varieties to investigate new topics related to wine characteristics and geographical areas of interest to club members. It may range from general overviews to in-depth analyses of different wine options that will enrich participants’ knowledge in broader aspects of interest.
  3. Preparation and Schedule of Presentations. Members will select a topic of their choosing and indicate when they plan to make their tasting presentation according to the year’s club session calendar at the end of this note.  The presenters shall indicate their selected date, along with the chosen topic, at the beginning of the registration period. If a member needs more time to select their topic, it should be indicated no later than six months before the presentation date. All members are strongly encouraged to participate in the organization, preparation and presentation of one tasting event during the year’s program. Organizers may form teams of up to three members. They should also ensure that their selected wines differ from previous tastings in the year or in recent years, to make the program distinctive and unique. The wines to be presented should be available in the Washington area or through online purchase sites (preferably under the club member’s subscription, if available).
  4. Technical Notes. The 2025 tasting program is designed to explore wines and varieties from around the world. Organizers are required to prepare a technical note in advance that provides in-depth information about their chosen topic. This note shall include background information on the selected topic, as well as details about the wines to be presented, according to an outline template the Steering committee makes available to all members. Once the technical note is reviewed, it will be published on the Club’s blog. Presenters are encouraged to include references to any materials used in their documents.
  5. Wine set cost. CV members are reminded that the maximum cost for a set of four wines to taste is $240.
  6. Deadline to select a presentation. This document provides a schedule for CV members to select their topic and presentation date by December 31, 2024. The Technical Director and members of the Club’s Steering Committee are available to assist members in selecting topics and wines.
  7. Other activities. Throughout the year, members of the CV can propose additional activities, such as winery visits and tastings, to expand the annual program. 

The Tasting Program for 2025 comprises the previous criteria and the following calendar of tastings. 

GOOD SELECTION AND KEEP TASTING!     click here for the Tasting Program 2025

Tasting Program 2025-final.docx

 

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