Tasting N^o 272 – December 17, 2024

Wines from Calabria

1.Tasting Overview

The main objective of this tasting is to explore some of the wines that we believe are distinctive and represent the Calabria region and varietals.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenter: Marcello Averbug

Participants: M. Averbug; J.Brakarz; R. Connolly; Y. Cutler; C. Estrada; M. Fryer; J. García; R. Gutierrez; N. Marzella; P. Meduña; A. and C. Perazza; L. Redwood; J. Requena; E. Silva; G. Smart; and G. Zincke.

These are the wines:

Cataldo Calabretta, Cirò Bianco, 2022
Statti, Cauro, Rosso Calabria IGT, 2020
Statti, Gaglioppo Calabria IGT, 2022
Ippolito 1845 ‘Colli del Mancuso’ Ciro Classico Superiore Riserva, 2020.

Calabria is a splendid region in southern Italy, which has a vast cultural heritage. Bathed by the waters of the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas, it is separated from Sicily by the Strait of Messina. The ancient name of Calabria, “Enotria Tellus” (“Land of Wine”), offers a straightforward introduction to this fascinating land, which has always been dedicated to producing wine.

Production isn’t large: Calabria makes just 4.9 million wine cases per year (compared to nearby Sicily’s 69 million cases) and a mere fraction of that wine makes its way to export markets.

Calabria’s oldest and most famous DOC wine appellation is Cirò, regrettably the only Calabrian wine to command great respect in the 20th and early 21st Centuries.

The other Calabrian wine of any note is Greco di Bianco. This is a white dried-grape sweet wine from the Bianco commune on Calabria’s south-east coast, made from the Greco Bianco grape.

The mild climate, the splendid colors of the sea, the rocky coasts, its wild and mysterious nature, the intense and genuine flavors of the local cuisine and the characteristics of its ancient origins make Calabria a place to be admired in both winter and summer.

Although just under 10% of the regional territory is flat and the area under vineyard is less than 20,000 ha., Calabria can stand out its position thanks to native grapes such as Gaglioppo and Magliocco and the hard work of small artisan wine producers, who believe in the enormous potential of this region. Italy’s “top of the road” is fighting to gain greater prominence on the national and global wine scenes.

The history of Calabria viticulture

The first documents on viticulture in the region date back to around 1000 AD, a sign that this activity already played a key role in the Calabrian economy, along with fishing and commerce.

At the end of the 19^th century, the Phylloxera epidemic dealt a severe blow to Calabrian viticulture and, as a result, for many years, local wines were relegated to use as blends. The volume produced in the region has never quite recovered, and the planted area has decreased. In 2020, there were 8,824 hectares (21,800 acres) declared under vine, down from 30,000 hectares (75,000 acres) in 2010.

Calabria’s Denominations and Varieties

The region is home to nine DOC titles, while it still lacks a DOCG title. However, these appellations cover only around one eighth of the region’s total wine output. The production restrictions they require are not counterbalanced by the prices they command, making them an unattractive prospect to producers.

Calabria’s oldest and most famous wine appellation is Cirò DOC, the only Calabrian wine to command great respect in the 20^th and early 21^st Centuries. It remains the only significant reminder of Calabria’s potential as a source of high-quality wine, particularly in its Cirò Rosso Riserva form.

Cirò is best known for red wines based on the Gaglioppo grape variety. Considered one of the oldest named wines in the world, with a winemaking history stretching back thousands of years. The origins of Gaglioppo are unclear. The traditional theory is that the variety arrived with Aglianico at the time of the ancient Greeks. However, recent DNA testing suggests that it is more likely to be one of the many descendants of Sangiovese. A third theory is that both are true, but that it is the result of a cross-pollination between Sangiovese and an unknown variety from Greece.

The Gaglioppo grape produces varietal red wine that is typified by a range of crushed berry flavors, often accented by cherry and spicy secondary notes. It can also be blended with Cabernet or Merlot (Cirò Rosso). Some people like to slightly chill their Gaglioppo, for a refreshing summer drink. This is very much Calabria’s flagship wine. Also of interest from Calabria is the red Maglioppo, likely a relative of Sangiovese. Finally, Cirò Rosso Riserva wines (or Riserva Superiore) represent the finest that Cirò, and indeed Calabria, can produce. These are matured for at least two years before commercial release.

In Cirò, Gaglioppo vines are grown at high altitudes to protect them against the hot southern Italian climate. Many producers choose to pick early in the season to help retain good levels of acidity and to prevent the fruit from tasting too jammy and stewed once vinified.

Gaglioppo responds best to dry conditions, but can become too alcoholic if its high natural sugar levels are left to develop for too long on the vine.

A limited quantity of Cirò Bianco and Rosato are also produced. The white must feature at least 80% Greco Bianco. Any other white varieties permitted in Calabria make up the balance. The Rosato has the same blend rules as the Rosso.

Information on the Wines

Wine #1. Cataldo Calabretta, Cirò Bianco DOC, 2022

– The Producer: The Calabretta family has been involved in winemaking for four generations, with Cataldo Calabretta winery being the current representative. This small winery was founded in the early 1900s and has been dedicated to producing high-quality, authentic wines from the Cirò region. The winery has recovered old vineyards in the hilly area of Cirò Marina, near the sea, to produce wines that reflect the unique terroir of the region. Cataldo Calabretta is committed to sustainable and organic practices, with a focus on preserving the natural characteristics of the grapes and terroir. The winery uses traditional techniques, such as sapling cultivation for Gaglioppo grapes, and minimal intervention in the cellar.

– The wine: Cirò Bianco by Calabretta is a certified organic white wine. It has a bright straw yellow color with aromas of white flowers and yellow pulp fruit. The flavor and persistence stand out on the sip.

The nose shows notes of wild flowers and fresh white fruit; on the palate it shows hints of Mediterranean fruit with a touch of aromaticity due to the presence of Malvasia. (https://biondivino.com/).

Year – 2022
Composition: Greco Bianco (90%); Malvasia (10%)
Denomination: Cirò DOC, Calabria
Fermented separately and then assembled in a proportion according to the vintage
Aged in steel tanks
5-13% APV

Winemaker notes.A white wine with fine minerality and personality. A touch of skin contact gives it grip and added texture. Expect notes of white flowers and yellow fruit. It’s fresh, fruity and persistent and aged for 6 months in stainless steel on the lees.

The Cirò Bianco is a wine for every meal that goes well with rich fish appetizers, pasta dishes with sauces with fish, try the linguine with crab.

Wine #2 Statti, Cauro, Rosso Calabria IGT, 2020

– The Producer: Since 1700’s the family of Baron Statti has been living in the same 500 hectares. For over two thousand years, the agricultural history of Calabria has been intertwined with that of wine, and since the 1700’s the Baroni Statti family has been living on the same five hundred hectares. For Statti, the great variety of native vines represents a great heritage to be rediscovered and enhanced. The Statti family has played a decisive role in the Calabrian economy and, today, Alberto and Antonio Statti decided to capitalize on the deep bond with the territory’s history and tradition, with an eye always projected towards the future and innovation.

– The Wine: Cauro is what we can call a “Super Calabrese”. A blend of typical Calabrian grapes, this wine is a true walk in the woods: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Gaglioppo and 20% Magliocco.

Year – 2020
Composition: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Gaglioppo and 20% Magliocco.
Denomination: Calabria IGT
Vinification: Destemming, pressing of the grapes and traditional red fermentation in 150 hl steel tanks, at a controlled temperature (22° – 26° C) with maceration on the skins for 15 days.
Aged for 12 months in French oak barriques and 30 hl barrels
5% APV

Tasting notes: It presents aromas of wild fruits, vanilla, wood, clove and leather. In the mouth great balance with perfectly extracted tannins. Long persistence, its great generosity leaves a pleasant sensation of vanilla and small red fruits in the finish.

Berry undertones take center stage on the palate, and contrast with medium tannins and acidity to create a coherent, sophisticated wine. It goes perfectly with succulent meats and semi-matured or aged cheeses with a complex and intense flavor.

Wine #3. Statti, Gaglioppo Calabria IGT, 2023

– The Wine: From the same Statti winery, the respect of the original and typical fruit produces a wine of rare elegance and pleasantness. The right witness of a land hidden in his own richness.

Year – 2023
Composition: 100% Gaglioppo.
Denomination: Calabria IGT
Vinification: Traditional fermentation at a controlled temperature (22-26 °C) with maceration on the skins for 7 days.
Aged In stainless steel tanks for 3 months
12-13% APV.

Wine #4. Ippolito 1845 ‘Colli del Mancuso’ Cirò Classico Superiore Riserva, 2020

– The Producer: With over 160 years of history, the Ippolito winery represents the oldest winery in Calabria. Among the indigenous Calabrian varieties, Gaglioppo plays a leading role and has made a personal boast of the valorization of the region’s rich heritage.

The Ippolito 1845 winery’s vineyard area is made up of three estates located in the heart of the Cirò DOC: Mancuso, Feudo and Difesa Piana, within a total of about 100 hectares distributed close to the Ionian Sea. Innovative techniques and careful control of all production processes allow the company to put on the market wines that are elegant but deeply rooted in their territory.

The most important operations in the vineyards are carried out strictly by hand. The reduced tillage to limit erosion and save biodiversity, conducting organic agriculture. The cultivated vines are only native, true heritage of Calabria: Gaglioppo, Greco Bianco, Calabrese, Pecorello, Greco Nero and others.

– The Wine: Emblem of the best Calabrian winemaking, this Cru comes from the oldest native vine of Calabria, Gaglioppo, grown in the low-yield hilly vineyards of the Mancuso estate located in the heart of Cirò DOC.

Year – 2020
Composition:.
Denomination: Cirò DOC, Calabria
Vinification: the breeding system adopted is mainly the horizontal spurred cordon, a small part with a high sapling. Yields vary between 50 and 80 quintals per hectare, with a production of 1-1.5 kg per vine. The grapes are left to ripen on the hills until late October and then carefully selected.
A long maceration on the pomace, is followed by a 12-month refinement in oak barrels, so as to enhance the elegance and softness of the wine
14% APV

Tasting notes: ruby red with beautiful liveliness offers elegant aromas of morello cherry, plum, spices and vanilla. The flavor is full, soft, and finely tannic.

6. CV Members Ratings:

Before revealing their prices. 16 participants rated them from Mediocre to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting as
follows:
Ippolito 1845 ' Colli del Mancuso' Cirò Classico Superiore Riserva, 2020 was the Best Wine, and Statti, Gaglioppo Calabria IGT, 2022 was the Best Buy.
The following Table presents the details of ratings and combined results.

7. References

https://biondivino.com/

https://www.wine-searcher.com/

https://www.wine.com/

https://www.ippolito1845.it/

https://www.statti.com/

https://cataldocalabretta.it/

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Laughing matter:

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