Tasting #238 February 22, 2022 Wines from ‘Triángulo del Jerez en Andalucía’

Tasting #238 February 22, 2022, 12:30 PM    Wines from ‘Triángulo del Jerez en Andalucía’

Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tasting Overview

This tasting aims to explore the sherry wines (Jerez) in its many varieties and styles produced in the Jerez Triangle, an area at the extreme south of Spain in the province of Cádiz, Andalucía, where the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María are at the vertices of the triangle. Under the official name of Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, it is the first Denominación de Origen Protegida (DOP) to be officially recognized as such in 1933, sharing the same governing council as D.O. Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Sherry or jerez is a fortified wine made from white grapes, primarily from the Palomino grape, and produced in a variety of styles, ranging from light versions similar to white table wines, such as Manzanilla and Fino, to darker and heavier versions that have been allowed to oxidize as they age in barrel, such as Amontillado and Oloroso. Sweet dessert wines are made from Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel grapes and are sometimes blended with Palomino-based sherries.

Type of tasting: Open

Presenters: Claudia and Agilson Perazza

 

Wines:

  1. Hidalgo Manzanilla La Gitana
  2. NV Gonzalez Byass – Tio Pepe Fino Muy Seco Sherry
  3. NV Emilio Lustau – Jerez Escuadrilla Rare Amontillado Sherry
  4. NV Barbadillo – Jerez Cuco Oloroso Seco Sherry
  5. NV Emilio Lustau – Solera Reserva Pedro Ximénez San Emilio Sherry

Menu:

1.      Calamari Salad

2.      Mussels in White Sauce

3.      Risotto with Wild Mushrooms

4.      Pork Stew

5.      Bitter Chocolate, Vanilla Ice Cream

 

Participants: M. Averbug; J. Brakarz; J. Claro; R. Connolly; A. Perazza; C. Perazza; J. Redwood; L. Redwood; J. Sanchez; R. Zavaleta; G. Smart; G. Zincke; G. Vega; P. Kornbluh; E. Silva.

 

Technical Note

Information from several Internet sources, as Wikipedia, Sherry Notes, Wine Folly, Wine Searcher, producers’ websites, and others.

The Sherry Region

Protection of Sherry. In Europe, “Sherry” has protected designation of origin status, and under Spanish law, all wine labelled as “Sherry” must legally come from the Sherry Triangle. This area is the wine ageing area of the “Marco del Jerez”.  All the grapes must come from a wider production area, which includes Trebujena, Chiclana, Puerto Real, Rota, Chipiona and Lebrija.

Spanish producers have registered the three names Jerez / Xérès /Sherry and so may prosecute producers of similar fortified wines from other places using any of the same names. The 1933, Spanish Estatuto del Vino (Wine Law) established the boundaries of sherry production as the one of the first Spanish wine denominación, and the Jerez Consejo Regulador was the first constituted according the same estatuto. Today, sherry’s official status is further recognized by wider EU legislation.

In addition, another agro-food product also exists within the Jerez region, one which in the year 1994 achieved the status of a Denomination of Origin: “Vinagre de Jerez” (Sherry Vinegar).

Sherry is regarded by some wine writers as “underappreciated” and a “neglected wine treasure”[1].

Viticulture: the area’s landscape consists primarily of white limestone hills, known as albariza, characterized by the extreme, dazzling whiteness it takes on during the dry months. This soft loam of chalk and clay comes to the surface on the tops of the hills, thus giving rise to the characteristic Sherry vineyard landscapes. It is rich in calcium carbonate (up to 40%), clay and silica from shells present in the sea that once covered the region in the Oligocene period. From a wine-growing point of view the most important characteristic is the high moisture-retaining power rendered by the soil’s structure, which stores each winter’s rainfall in order to nourish the vines during the dry warmer months. Then, the soil’s upper layers bake hard and turn white under the summer heat, helping prevent the evapotranspiration produced by the high levels of sunlight.

The finest albariza soil, with the highest proportion of limestone and elements of silica, produces the most select and sought-after sherry wines in the Marco de Jerez.

The prevailing climate of the Jerez region is warm due to its low-lying latitude, it being one of the most southerly winegrowing regions in Europe. Summers are dry and marked by high temperatures, prompting equally high levels of evapotranspiration, though the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean has an important role to play in maintaining levels of humidity and moderating temperatures, something that is more evident at night. Rainfall levels are high, on average 600 mm/year, usually falling in autumn and winter. With certain exceptions, this amount of water is sufficient for the correct evolution of the vines, supplemented by the all-important nocturnal humidity provided by the nearby Atlantic Ocean. During the vines growing season – spring and summer – the region is influenced by two prevailing winds known as the Poniente (from the west) and the Levante (from the south-east). The former is cool and humid (humidity can reach 95%), while the latter is hot and dry (with humidity around 30%).

The wine growers of the region have traditionally divided the production zone into smaller areas known as “pagos“, which refer to small areas of vineyards defined by topographical features and possessing homogeneous soils and mesoclimate. Famous pagos include Carrascal, Marcharnudo, Añina, Bilbaina. Up to 70 different pagos are identified within the Sherry region.

 

A bit of history

The word sherry is an anglicization of Xérès (Jerez). Sherry was previously known as sack, from the Spanish saca, meaning “extraction” from the solera.

Jerez has been a center of viniculture since winemaking was introduced to Spain by the Phoenicians in 1100 BCE. Xera was the name given by the Phoenicians to the Jerez region. This nation of traders produced wines that were exported throughout the Mediterranean Basin, so from the start, Sherry has been identified as a wine which “travels”. The practice was carried on by the Romans when they took control of Iberia around 200 BC. The Moors conquered the region in 711 AD and introduced distillation, which led to the development of brandy and fortified wine.

During the Moorish period, the town was called Sherish (a transliteration of the Arabic), from which both Sherry and Jerez are derived. Wines similar in style to Sherry have traditionally been made in the city of Shiraz in mid-southern Iran, but it is thought unlikely that the name derives from there. Wine production continued through five centuries of Muslim rule. In 966, Al-Hakam II, the second Caliph of Córdoba, ordered the destruction of the vineyards, but the inhabitants of Jerez appealed on the grounds that the vineyards also produced raisins to feed the empire’s soldiers, and the Caliph spared two-thirds of the vineyards.

In 1264, Alfonso X of Castile took the city. From this time on, the production of sherry and its export throughout Europe increased significantly, and, by the end of the 16th century, sherry had a reputation in Europe as the world’s finest wine.

Christopher Columbus brought sherry on his voyage to the New World and when Ferdinand Magellan prepared to sail around the world in 1519, he spent more on sherry than on weapons.

Sherry became very popular in Great Britain, especially after Francis Drake sacked Cádiz in 1587. At that time, Cádiz was one of the most important Spanish seaports, and Spain was preparing an armada there to invade England. Among the spoils Drake brought back after destroying the fleet were 2,900 barrels of sherry that had been waiting to be loaded aboard Spanish ships. This helped popularize Sherry in the British Islands.

Because sherry was a major wine export to the United Kingdom, many English companies and styles developed. Many of the Jerez bodegas were founded by British families.

 

Sherry Grape Varieties

Palomino Fino is an indigenous grape variety that is the principal variety, used for Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and Palo Cortado wines. The must (mosto) tends to oxidate rapidly. Even in Sherry where oxidative aging occurs, the grapes are pressed very quickly after harvest.

A white wine from this grape variety is typically low in acidity and sugar. Usually, before fermentation of the base wine, sulfur is added to the must, and it is acidified. Traditionally, an addition of yeso (plaster) was combined with cream of Tartar to produce tartaric acid, and aid clarification. Nowadays the latter is more likely to be achieved via racking and tartaric acid is added directly.

 Pedro Ximénez (PX) grape is used in the principal sweet style of Sherry, dark, sticky, and syrupy. Pedro Ximénez varietal is predominantly grown in Montilla-Morilles, where the grape accounts for some 70% of total vineyard plantings. Plantings of PX within the Sherry zone have declined greatly, so the Consejo Regulador allows producers to import grapes from the nearby Montilla-Moriles DO. Almost all PX aged in the Sherry Triangle originates from Montilla-Morilles DOP, as the climate is better suited to the grape.

In 1894, the Jerez region was devastated by the phylloxera. The only possible solution was to plant American varieties of rootstock with phylloxera-resistant roots and then graft onto them the vines traditionally grown in the area. Therefore, the plant from that period onwards is always made up of a subterranean section (American rootstock) and an above-ground section, or vine stock, which produces the fruit. Whereas larger vineyards were replanted with resistant vines, most smaller producers were unable to fight the infestation and abandoned their vineyards entirely.

 

Vinification: how Sherry is made

  1. Types of aging

Ageing is without a doubt the decisive stage in the Sherry production process: the most prolonged, in terms of its duration. It is the stage that imparts the organoleptic properties which give rise to a surprisingly wide range of different types of Sherry wines, with a distinctive palette of colors, that can be produced with the same white grape varieties.

Amongst other things, this great diversity depends on the degree to which the wines are exposed to oxygen during the ageing process. The region uses two different types of ageing processes: Biological under veil of flor, and Oxidative.

After fermentation is complete, the base wines are fortified with grape spirit in order to increase their final alcohol content. Wines classified as suitable for aging as Manzanilla, Fino and Amontillado are fortified until they reach a total alcohol content of 15-15.5% abv and placed in oak barrels or butts which are not filled completely.

As they age the wines develop a film or veil of flor (velo de flor) — specific indigenous ambient yeast growth that helps protect it from excessive oxidation (biological aging process). This is a completely natural phenomenon that originates in the white albariza soils that dominate the vineyards in Jerez and develops successfully thanks to the special conditions of temperature and humidity inside the cellars.

Those wines that are classified to undergo aging as Oloroso are fortified to reach an alcohol content of at least 17% abv. They do not develop flor and so oxidize slightly as they age (oxidative or physicochemical aging process), giving them a darker color.

Because the fortification takes place after fermentation, most sherries are initially dry, with any sweetness being added later (in case of Cream or medium Sherry). In contrast, Port wine is fortified halfway through its fermentation, which stops the process, and so not all the sugar is turned into alcohol.

  1. Criaderas y soleras

The wines produced in the Jerez region are created using an ancient maturing method which has been passed down over the generations, known as “criaderas y soleras“. This dynamic ageing system is the only viable method with which to successfully carry out the biological ageing of Sherry wines.

In this system, wines from different stages of the ageing process are blended together to perpetuate specific characteristics in the wine that is finally sold on the market.

The essential feature of this unique process is that the wine to be bottled is taken from the butts (barrels) situated at floor level – the solera – which contain the oldest wines.  The amount taken out is substituted by an equivalent amount of younger wine from the row above – the first criadera – and this, in turn, is substituted by the same amount from the row just above – the second criadera – which contains an even younger wine, and so on. This work must be performed with great skill and care so to homogenize the butts’ content without disturbing the vail of flor. Maintaining the veil of flor for years requires essential micronutrients which are provided by adding small quantities of “younger” wines, in a successive “refreshing” process. The result is exceptional wines which maintain the same quality, year after year.

This dynamic method allows the wines produced to undergo an exceptionally lengthy ageing process. In fact, they are amongst the oldest wines in the world, and can be matured for more than 20 or 30 years. The ageing process for any type of Sherry must be at least two years, although most varieties are aged for much longer. Because the wine is aged and blended this way before bottling, bottles of sherry will not usually carry a specific vintage year and can contain a small proportion of very old wine.

 

These complex processes of ageing and maturing sherry wines require very precise environmental conditions that are not always available, given the region’s climate. So, the bodegas in the region had to adapt their architectural design to mitigate the negative factors of the climate’s strong oscillations in temperature, and changes in humidity levels according to the dominant winds and take advantage of the more positive aspects.

The buildings’ NE-SE orientation is strategic, which allows the gentle southerly and westerly Ponente winds blowing in from the Atlantic to circulate easily, while blocking the harmful dry Levante winds, and minimizing the effects of the strongest sunshine on its walls. The Ponente breezes laden with the moisture are needed for the development of flor. The bodegas are unusually tall buildings, sometimes as tall as 15m at their central arch. The enormous volume of air inside, and the well-managed ventilation make it possible to maintain the temperature.

 

Types of Sherry wines

Sherries come in three main categories: dry (generoso), naturally sweet (dulces naturales) and blended sweet (generosos de licor).

Dry sherry wines or vinos generosos, are defined by the Regulations of the Consejo Regulador as dry wines (with a maximum residual sugar quantity of 5 grams/L) produced from the total fermentation of must (mosto), usually produced from Palomino grapes, at the end of which process a film of “flor” appears upon the surface of the base wine. The decision of the bodeguero to fortify the alcoholic strength of base wine, to either 15% or 17% volume, determines the type of ageing which the wine will later undergo (biological or oxidative).

The main types of generosos are:

Biological aging process

Fino (‘fine’ in Spanish) is the driest and palest of the traditional varieties of Sherry. The wine is made of 100% palomino Fino grapes and aged in American oak butts under the veil of flor yeast and a using the traditional solera y criaderas system in the bodegas of Jerez de la Frontera and El Puerto de Santa María.

Tasting notes: Ranging from bright straw yellow to pale gold in color. A sharp, delicate bouquet slightly reminiscent of almonds with a hint of fresh dough and wild herbs. Light, dry, and delicate on the palate leaving a pleasant, fresh aftertaste of almonds. Should be served very chilled, between 6-8o C, use ice bucket with both ice and water.

Manzanilla is an especially light variety of Fino Sherry produced exclusively in the bodegas around the port of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It is made from Palomino grapes and aged under a velo de flor. The special climatic conditions of the town, situated at the mouth of the river Guadalquivar, favor the formation of a special kind of veil of flor, which gives the wine its uniquely distinctive characteristics.

Tasting notes: very bright, pale straw-colored wine. A sharp, delicate bouquet with predominant floral aromas reminiscent of chamomile, almonds, and dough. Dry, fresh, and delicate on the palate, light and smooth in spite of a dry finish. Light acidity produces a pleasant sensation of freshness and a lingering, slightly bitter aftertaste. Serve very chilled, between 6-8oC, use ice bucket with both ice and water.

There are special types of Manzanilla sherry, such as Manzanilla Pasada, Amontillada y Olorosa, depending on its aging period and fading of the flor.

Dual aging process

Amontillado It is named after the Montilla region of Spain, where the style originated in the 18th century. It is a unique variety of Sherry for its dual aging process: it is first aged under flor (biological phase) and then exposed to oxygen (oxidative phase) as the veil of flor disappears, producing a sherry that is naturally dry, darker than a Fino, but lighter than an Oloroso. This fusion of aging processes makes the Amontillado extraordinarily complex and interesting sherry.

Tasting notes: This is an elegant wine which ranges from pale topaz to amber in color. Its subtle, delicate bouquet has an ethereal base smoothed by aromas of hazelnut and plants, reminiscent of aromatic herbs and dark tobacco. Light and smooth in the mouth with well-balanced acidity; both complex and evocative, giving way to a dry finish and lingering aftertaste with a hint of nuts and wood.

There is a wide range of Amontillados resulting from the different stages that occur between the two ageing phases that the wine is made from. Therefore, some Amontillados have a paler color with very sharp notes and faint memories of yeast, from being aged longer with the flor, while in others, the notes of oxidative aging—spices and wood—predominate. Serve between 12o-14oC; can stored for months after opened.

Palo Cortado is a variety of sherry that is initially aged like an Amontillado, typically for 3 or 4 years, but which subsequently develops a character closer to an Oloroso. This either happens by accident when the flor dies, or more commonly, the yeast is killed by fortification or filtration.

Oxidative aging process

Oloroso (‘scented’ in Spanish) is made with palomino grapes and aged oxidatively by adding alcohol to 17% to prevent development of the veil of flor, producing a darker and richer wine that are both structured and complex. Olorosos are the most alcoholic sherries as a result of the long aging process, with alcohol levels between 18 and 20%. Like Amontillado, naturally dry, they are often also sold in sweetened versions called Cream sherry (first made in the 1860s by blending different sherries, usually including Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez).

Tasting notes. Ranging from rich amber to deep mahogany in color, the darker the wine the longer it has been aged. Warm, rounded aromas which are both complex and powerful. Predominantly nutty bouquet (walnuts), with toasted, vegetable, and balsamic notes reminiscent of noble wood, golden tobacco, and autumn leaves. There are noticeable spicy, animal tones suggestive of truffles and leather.

Full flavored and structured in the mouth. Powerful, well-rounded, and full bodied. Smooth on the palate due to its glycerin content. It lingers in the mouth, with complex retronasal aromas of noble wood creating an elegant dry finish. Serve between 12 -14oC. Its composition allows it to be stored for months after being opened.

Sweet Sherry wines

Naturally sweet sherry wines (dulces naturales) are produced from over-ripe or sunned grapes, generally of the Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel varieties. The must, rich in sugars as a consequence of the sunning process of “pasificación” (literally raisinification) is only partially fermented, with the aim of conserving most of its original sweetness. Wine alcohol is added once fermentation is under way, and the wines are then aged in direct contact with the oxygen in the surrounding atmosphere.  The resulting wines is intensely sweet with a deep mahogany or dark brown color, and distinctive thickness. Two types of naturally sweet wines are produced according to the variety of grape used: Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez.

Pedro Ximénez is obtained from the overly ripe grapes of the same name, which are dried in the sun to obtain a must with an exceptionally high concentration of sugar. Its ageing process, which is exclusively oxidative, gives the wine a progressive aromatic concentration and greater complexity, while fully preserving the characteristic freshness of the variety. Pedro Ximénez is probably the sweetest wine in the world. Yet, its complexity of aroma and flavor make it fresh and harmonious on the palate as a result of the natural process of “asoleo” or drying the grapes in the sun. This concentrates the sugars, but also the natural acidity of the grapes.

Generoso liqueur wines (generosos de licor) are wines obtained from the traditional practice of “cabeceo” or blending of Generoso Wines with Naturally Sweet Wines. These wines may have different degrees of sweetness, but always with a sugar content of over 5 g/L. According to the type of dry wines used as a base and the final levels of sweetness of the blend, the following types of Generoso Liqueur wines are obtained: Pale Cream, Medium and Cream.

In addition, there are special categories of Sherry wines, according to a range of ageing criteria:

Sherries with an Indication of Age (12 and 15 yrs), are those sherries which, though never attaining the age of the V.O.S. and V.O.R.S., are subjected to prolonged ageing periods and also achieve the highest levels of quality. These are sherries with an average age of between 12 and 15 years and therefore have been submitted, either totally or partially, to an oxidative ageing process.

Sherries of Certified Age are of exceptional quality subjected to a strict selection process supervised by the Consejo Regulador, that results in very limited number of bottles at any release, and that have been aged for a long time. Because of their age, they must belong to one of the following types: Amontillado, Oloroso, Palo Cortado or Pedro Ximénez, that undergoes oxidative process. These certified sherries are either 20 years of age (V.O.S. –Vinum Optimum Signatum) or 30 yrs. (V.O.R.S. – Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum).

 

The wines of our tasting

 1.        JEREZ FINO

NV Gonzalez Bypass Tío Pepe Fino Jerez Muy Seco, 15.% alchool, 2018

This is It is 100% Palomino Fino grapes, biologically aged for at least 4 years in American oak barrels, following the traditional criaderas and solera system.

It has a pale golden color, similar to topaz, clean and bright. With sharp and delicate aromas, very elegant, with a powerful bouquet with almond notes and notes of fresh bread dough, distinctive touches of “la flor”. Reminiscences of almonds return on the palate, leaving a pleasant sensation of freshness. It is completely dry, with a long and complex aftertaste.

Reviews and awards: 93 pts. Guía Peñin 2021; 2020[2].

 The winery

Bodegas Tio Pepe (González Bypass). In the first half of the 19th century Jerez became the wine capital of the world. In 1835 Manuel Maria Gonzalez Angel invested his savings and started a small winery. In just 20 years González Byass became the biggest exporter of the wine cellars of Jerez. He built his first large wineries – Constancia, Apostles and the Square, as well as La Concha, designed by Eiffel and Lepanto. When he died in 1887, he left not only a booming business, but unique monuments in Jerez located at the heart of Jerez de la Frontera historic center. In addition to the traditional dry and sweet sherries, the winery offers exclusive soleras, historic great wines, as well as Sherry brandies, vermouths, and vinegars

 2.       JEREZ MANZANILLA

NV Hidalgo Manzanilla «La Gitana»

 It is made from 100% Palomino Fino grapes that are carefully cultivated in highly prized white albariza soils, (+80% Calcium carbonate) to obtain very fine high-quality musts. The grapes come from the “El Cuadrado” estate located in the historic Balbaina Alta estate. It is considered one of the pagos with the greatest Atlantic influence of all of Jerez Superior.

The must has perfect characteristics for producing Manzanilla and is responsible in large part of its peculiar salinity. The wines enter their soleras of Bodega San Luis, located in the lower area of Sanlúcar where the exposure to the river is direct. After 3 years the wine is moved to the main Bodega San Fermin for another 2-3 years. Because the San Luis is the closest bodega to the river/Atlantic, the flor is thicker than in any other winery in the area which makes its Manzanilla the finest of its kind.

Tasting notes. With an average of six years under flor, it has a deep golden color and an intense nose followed by a sharp palate, chiseled by the effect of the yeasts. They do two bottlings per year, one in spring and another one in autumn. In spring the wines tend to be more aromatic, open, and showy. It has the chalky minerality from the albariza soils. Dry, fresh, crisp, and delicate, this classic Manzanilla is ideal as an aperitif or with a variety of light dishes such as seafood.

Alcohol: 15%   Age: 5-6 yrs.

Reviews and awards: Wine spectator 92 pts.

The winery

Bodegas Hidalgo – La Gitana

Founded in 1792, Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana remains an independent family company, being today one of the few wine companies in the framework, managed by the family and directed by the eighth generation in direct line of the founder. With vineyards in Balbaina and Miraflores, their Bodegas are just 300 meters from the sea for maturing their wine. Their flagship product is Manzanilla La Gitana – The Gypsy. They also sell a wider range of sherries based on specific quality criteria and as a result have been rewarded with a variety of national and international awards and medals.

Don José Pantaleón Hidalgo founded Bodega Hidalgo in 1792, when he bought a small stocking bodega from Don Roque Vejarano, and, during the 19th century the company would grow to become one of the most important producers of Manzanilla in the world. The name alludes to its star product, “Manzanilla LA GITANA”. Endorsed by several relevant international awards, it is the most popular Manzanilla, both in the national and international markets. The Winery uses the grapes from its own vineyards, located in the pagos of Balbaina and Miraflores, considered to be the best in the area.

 

3.      JEREZ AMONTILLADO

NV Emilio Lustau Escuadrilla Rare Amontillado

Aged following a biological ageing the first part of its life, then passing on to a longer period under oxidative ageing, inside the Bodega Emperatriz Eugenia in Jerez de la Frontera. This Amontillado is a tribute to friendship in the Air Force wing (“Escuadrilla” in Spanish) of which Emilio Lustau was a member.

Bright amber color with golden hints. This complex Amontillado shows intense smoky wood, and nutty aromas, resulting from years of ageing in the bodegas of Jerez. Dry and elegant on the palate, with a long spicy aftertaste.

100% Palomino Fino      18.5% apv.    Age. ~12 yrs.

Reviews:

  • Decanter WWA 96 pts. 2021
  • Guía Peñin 91 pts, 2021
  • Wine Enthusiast 90 pts. 2017
  • WS 92 pts. 2014

 

4.      PEDRO XIMÉNEZ (DULCE NATURAL)

NV Emilio Lustau Solera Reserva Pedro Ximénez San Emilio

Pedro Ximénez grapes are laid out in the sun after picking until they are practically raisins. After that the fermentation starts slowly and it is halted to maintain all the natural sugars. The resulting wine ages in for 12 years in contact with the air in Jerez de la Frontera.

Ebony in color with iodine highlights. The aromas are reminiscent of figs, raisins, and dates. Extremely sweet, velvety, and soft on the palate, well balanced, with a very long finish.

100% Pedro Ximénez       Alcohol 17% apv      Age: ~12 yrs,

Reviews:

  • Guía Peñin 95 pts. 2020
  • WE 93 pts, 2009
  • Decanter WWA. 97 pts, 2021

Awards:

  • International Challenge:
  • Gold Wine winner, 2017 and 2020.
  • Trophy winner Pedro Ximénez, 2021

 

The Winery

Bodegas Lustau (Emilio Lustau)

The complex of bodegas Los Arcos is where the majority of the Lustau wines are aged. With a cathedral style and situated in the center of Jerez de la Frontera, it dates back to the 19th century and is a good example of the winery architecture of the region. Lustau boasts aged wines produced each of the cities that form the Sherry Triangle (Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María y Sanlúcar de Barrameda). The four bodegas together enable wholesalers to offer more than 30 types of Sherry wines to the market, as well as vermouths, brandies, and vinegars. The principal brands include two of the wines for this tasting: Amontillado Escuadrilla; and Pedro Ximenez San Emilio.

 

5.     JEREZ OLOROSO

NV Barbadillo Jerez Cuco Oloroso Seco

Mahogany in color, its aroma reminds of noble woods in which it was aged and boasts evident nutty notes. Unctuous and dry on the palate.

Color: iodine, amber edge. Aroma: powerful, nuts, creamy oak, varnish, raisined fruit. Mouth: fatty, long, spicy, tasty (Guía Peñín, 2021).

Old wines that have undergone an oxidative ageing process, such as our Oloroso Cuco, can remain in perfect organoleptic conditions for many years once bottled, even if the bottle has been opened.

100% Palomino Fino       19.5% apv        Age: ~12 yrs.

Reviews and awards:

  • 91 pts – Peñín Guide 2021
  • 91 pts – Proensa Guide 2019
  • 92 pts – Peñín Guide 2019

 

The Winery

Bodegas Barbadillo

Since 1821, the year in which the cousins Benigno Barbadillo and Manuel López moved to Sanlúcar and began to produce Manzanilla. Since then, the company has been passed down from generation to generation of the Barbadillo family, and continued to evolve their range, looking for wines that will surprise and leave an impression. Barbadillo comprises 16 ageing bodegas in Sanlúcar, a red and white winemaking plant, and 500 ha of vineyards, making it one of the largest wineries in the Marco de Jerez area.

References:

https://www.sherry.wine/

https://www.sherrynotes.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/

https://www.wine-searcher.com

https://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/reviews/09wine.html?smid=url-share

 

[1] https://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/reviews/09wine.html?smid=url-share

 

[2] La Guia Peñín is Spain’s most famous and comprehensive wine guide. It is compiled by José Peñin, whose impressive knowledge of international and Spanish wines has been gathered over more than 25 years as a professional wine writer and journalist.

Table with Tasting Summary # 238 – Participants assessment

2022 02 22 Tasting Summary 238

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Laughing matter

This one is going to be hard to find:

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About Cecilio Augusto Berndsen

Information Technology, Management, Project Management and Public Administration are areas I am familiar with. I am also interested in photography, wine, sailing, politics, economics, and economic development.
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