Tasting N^o 273 – January 28, 2025 – Wine from the Kakheti Region  of Georgia

            Capri Ristorante, McLean VA

Presenters: Patricia Meduña and Laura Bocalandro

Participantes: S. Ardila; M. Averbug; L. Bocalandro J. Brakarz; R. Connolly; C. Estrada; J. Entwistle; J. García; P. Meduña; A. and C. Perazza; L. Redwood; G. Zincke.

The wines:

1. Mikho, Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023
2. Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli,  Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
3. Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzani, Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
4. Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti, Georgia, 2019

Menu: 

• Eggplant parmesan
• Seafood with linguini pasta
• Steak
• Dessert

— Type of Tasting: Open

The Region

1. Georgia and its history of wine.

Georgia is a country between Eastern Europe and West Asia. It is located in the southern fringe of the Caucasus Mountains and surrounded by the Black Sea to the west, Russia to the north and northeast, Turkey to the southwest, Armenia to the south, and Azerbaijan to the southeast. It has a population of 3.7 million of which over a third live in the capital and largest city, Tbilisi.

Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. Based on archeological finds Georgia has been  cultivating  grapevine and producing wine for at least 8000 years. In 2015, scientists studying the history of agriculture in Georgia uncovered ancient clay vessels that contained the remains of grapes and grape seeds. The grape and seed material were dated to 6000 BC, the earliest known location for grape winemaking. Thus, even before the ancient Egyptians and Greeks developed wine cultures of their own, there was Georgian viticulture.

The ancient traditional Georgian winemaking method used Kvevri clay jars. These are very large egg-shaped  earthenware vessels with an inside coat of beeswax. When filled with the fermented juice of the harvest, the kvevris are topped with a wooden lid and then covered and sealed and buried underground . Today wine is made using either kvevris or modern stainless steel, oak barrels or concrete tanks as used in Europe.

Georgia’s climate and soil conditions are optimal for wine-making. Extremes in weather are rare. Usually summers are sunny and warm, and winters mild and frost-free. The Caucasus mountains brings streams that drain mineral-rich water into the valleys. The presence of the Black Sea gives Georgia a moderate climate and moist air, providing the best conditions for vine cultivating.

Due to its diverse and unique microclimate, modern Georgia has at least 525 indigenous grape varieties. The best-known  wine regions are in the country’s east with the Kakheti region producing 70% of Georgian wines. This  wine tasting will concentrate on wines produced in this region.  

2. The Kakheti Wine Region

Much of the Kakheti region is too cold and high to grow grapes. Grapes are grown in the lowlands and by Kakheti’s two rivers: the Alazani River  and the Iori River. The Alzani river valley is the main growing area of the Kakheti. The left bank of the river is facing south and thus its soil is wetter and more sandy, whereas the right bank has drier and calcareous soil. 

3. Grape varietals

Two grape varieties- Rkatsiteli and Saperavi- presently account for almost 70% of the hectares of wine planted in Georgia and the Kakheti wine region. This was the result of the Soviet control which aimed at increasing efficiency and volume and thus concentrated on these two varieties. 

Georgia and the Kakheti wine region have three types of wine. The dry white wines make up about 75% of planted vines with Rkatsiteli leading the way. Other white varieties that are notable and exported from Georgia include Mtsvane, Kisi, Tsolikouri, and Khikhvi. In red wines Saperavi leads the way.

The third type of wine, for which Georgian is known worldwide, is amber wine or “orange wine”. These wines are produced using the ancient wine-making method in which the pressed grapes are poured into the clay kvevri with their skin, stalks and pips. The kvevri is then sealed and buried underground or kept in underground cellars and left to ferment from five to six months. Amber wines take on the amber color due to the fact that they are fermented with the grape skins. The varietals used in this process are usually the Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Kisi white wines. 

4. Tasting Overview

 The main objective of this tasting is to get to get to know the wines from the Kakheti region  of Georgia. For this open tasting four wines are presented: one white, two reds and one amber wine.

These are the wines: format/order for presenting the wines’ names: Producer (winery), name of the wine (designation), grape variety (optional for Old World wines); Appellation (or region), vintage.

1. Mikho, Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023
2. Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli,  Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
3. Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzani, Kakheti, Georgia, 2022
4. Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti, Georgia, 2019

 Information on the Wines

Wine #1 Amber

 Mikho,Rkatsiteli, Amber Dry Wine, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023

– Producer: Mikho Vineyards 

– About amber wine:

Amber wines are unique to Georgia. They present tastes of  dried orange and apricot, nuts, and honey with herbs and tannin. It is best to drink them closer to “room temperature”, between 55-65 degrees and  paired with a wide variety of food, preferably those that offer fat, salt, and spices. It is preferable to avoid bitter food. Think cheese pizza with spicy Italian sausage and red pepper flakes, hard or stinky cheeses, a Philly cheesesteak, eggplant parmesan, or a BLT. Lamb chops and steak also go well.

The amber made from Rkatsiteli grapes in  Qvevri is an organic natural amber on the skins wine. It is produced from 100% Rkatsiteli grapes hand-harvested from a single biodynamic vineyard located in Gurjaani village, Kakheti. This wine is Vegan. The must was fermented with natural yeasts of Georgian wines in Georgian clay vessels (Qvevri) for six months.  It was bottled unfiltered, according to ancient Georgian wine making traditions dating back 8000 years.  This wine presents an orange and diaphanous visual and tastes marvelous with notes of forest fruits and a long lasting finish with rich tannins. 13% alcohol per volume.

Wine #2 White.

Marnaveli, Rkatsiteli, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023

The Producer                                                  

Marnaveli has been producing wine and brandy for more than 20 years. It was founded in 2002 and has been growing every year. Marnaveli  is located between Tbilisi and the Kakheti region . It follows strict industry standards and is equipped with modern technology. Their main concept is to produce wines from all over Georgia; it  collects the best wines of Georgia from vineyards where grapes are hand-picked.              

– The Wine

Rkatsiteli is the most important and widely planted white grape variety in Georgia and is native to Kakheti.  This grape variety is has proved extremely versatile. It is a hardy vine that can resist mildew and survive frosts. Although it does best in calcareous soils, it adapts to different terrains. It tends to be aromatic with tropical fruit and herbaceous notes and retains acidity with high sugar levels. Rkatsiteli is produced in a variety of ways ranging from fresh, dry wines to complex, amber-colored skin-contact wine, to sparkling, sweet and fortified wines. When it is made in stainless steel it has the aroma of apple and quince however, when frmented in a quevri it becomes a more complex and deeply flavored wine. Depending on the contact with the grape’s skin, it can it tastes of caramel, dried orange and spices.

This particular dry white wine is made from Rkatsiteli grapes grown in Kakheti and matured in oak casks. It is light amber in color, has an aroma of yellow fruits and flowers. The pleasant acidity of the white wine combines well with its softness. It is recommended to be paired with seafood, fish and cheese dishes.

Wine #3 Red

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, Mukuzami PDO, Kakheti, 2022. 

– Information about the Producer:

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani (Kakheti, Gurjaani) KGM is a family-owned winery established in 2013. After 1991, the founder of KGM, Giorgi Kevkhishvili, began reclaiming the family vineyards confiscated by the Soviet authorities in the 1920s. Today Giorgi and his son Nugzar cultivate 500 ha of vineyards in Kakheti. Located in Village Gurjaani, KGM has vineyards in Tsinandali, Teliani, Akhasheni, Mukuzani, Manavi and Gurjaani. US Importer: Interbalt

– The  Wine

Saperavi translates as “dye” in Georgian showing the grapes intense pigmentations. Only a handful of vinifera grapes with red flesh and red skin make the saperavi wines unique.  These grapes often produce wines that are inky, dark, bold, and tannic. The wines are known for their black fruit, savory spice, mocha, and even meaty characteristics as well as notable levels of acidity and tannin. It is very much a food wine. It goes well with Italian meat sauce, grilled pork, black bean or mushroom burgers, and steak.

Saperavi is made in both dry and off-dry versions. Mukuzani, Napereuli, Khashmi are Saperavi PDOs that produce a dry red wine while the best known off-dry wines are Kindzmarauli and Akhasheni PDOs.

Wine #4 Red

Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti 2019

–The producer

Marnaveli has been producing wine and brandy for more than 20 years. It was founded in 2002 and has been growing every year. Marnaveli  is located between Tbilisi and Kakheti and is equipped with modern technology standards. Their main concept is to produce wines from all over Georgia; it collects the best wines of Georgia from friendly  vineyards where grapes are hand picked.

-The wine 

Saperavi wines are deep in color and high in acidity and tannins that require time to soften. They taste of dark berries, plum, tobacco, tea and spice. These wines  are long-lived, especially when aged in oak, and can develop notes of chocolate, licorice, and grilled meat.  This wine has matured for a full year in oak casks. The high acidity and tannins of the grapes makes it suitable for aging and thus acquiring complex secondary aromas and deepening flavors over time.

Marnaveli Saperavi Oaked is richly structured, generously fruity, with a  juicy aftertaste. It is food friendly. Rated excellent ( 92 points) per Mundius Vini with 13% alcohol/volume.

COMPARISON OF SAMPLED WINES FROM KAKHETI REGION, GEORGIA                                                 

Vine prices to be disclosed after the tasting.

6. CV Members Rating  

The tasting took place before revealing their prices. The wines were rated individually by 13 participants, ranging from Acceptable to Exceptional. The combined results established the preference order during the tasting, as shown in the following Table. The final result was that Marnaveli, Saperavi Oaked, Kakheti, 2019 was the Best Wine and the Best Buy.

References

https://thecorkscrewconcierge.com/2023/09/georgian-wine-on-my-mind/

https://www.georgianwineguild.co.uk/georgian-wine/viticulture-and-winemaking-regions

The Internatioanl Wine Review, April 2024, The Wines of Kakheti and Kartli I-winereview.com

https://www.wineenthusiast.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georgian_wine

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